World City Guide

The Amsterdam’s tourist office latest programme neatly gets to the heart of the Dutch capital: ‘Amsterdam: City on the Water’. This is a city like Venice founded on and still today focused around water and waterways, though unlike Venice, Holland’s largest city is no mere museum piece. Amsterdam is a real, living and breathing metropolis, not just an oasis for tourists, those who like ‘a smoke’ and men in search of extra-marital sex. In the canals beneath the stag parties and working girls, young Internet entrepreneurs strike deals across Europe from their houseboats and just outside the old core is the RAI, one of the continent’s key conference and business hubs. As well as the chugging canal boats, the city’s waterways also increasingly play home to massive cruise ships and cargo vessels from all over the world. Today, Amsterdam peddles tourists almost as slickly as it has peddled goods and services over the centuries.

The Dutch capital has clearly come a long way since it was founded, as legend has it, by two fishermen and a seasick dog. The story goes that the dog jumped ship to deposit the contents of his stomach and the two fishermen became the founders of Amsterdam. The reality might have been slightly more prosaic, with the River Amstel being dammed in the 13th century and spawning a settlement, which took the name of Aemstelledamme. The lifeblood of Amsterdam has long been its aquatic locale, close as it is to the North Sea and built on myriad canals, which neatly divide the city into easily navigable districts and imbue it with a small town ambience. There seems to be a canal around every corner in Amsterdam – not too surprising, considering that the city is home to a staggering 165 of them (more than Venice).

In recent years, the bad publicity surrounding the rise and murder of far right politician Pim Fortuyn, in 2002, and increased public debate about tighter immigration controls has dented somewhat the city’s reputation for tolerance. Amsterdam today is still a haven for many nationalities, various sexualities and people of radically different political and religious persuasions, but cracks are starting to appear and immigration laws have tightened. There is still tolerance when it comes to man’s vices, with practical solutions on how to deal with one of the world’s oldest industries and the controlled use of soft drugs.

During the summer, the city comes together in Vondelpark, where locals and tourists alike relax in the balmy weather. Amsterdam statistically might be one of Europe’s wettest capitals, but as soon as the clouds clear and the sun is allowed to shine, its inhabitants spill out onto the streets, to sit in the numerous pavement cafés, take a cruise on a canal or even partake in that most ubiquitous of Amsterdam pastimes – ride their bicycles (the city has more than double the number of bikes it has people). Amsterdam’s winters tend to be cold with plenty of rain but this seldom seems to deter the tourists, who flock to the city. Particularly cold winters also offer the unique chance for visitors to witness Amsterdamers skating across the picturesquely frozen canals. These days with plenty of rail, bus and air connections to all over Europe and further afield, the Dutch capital is a year round tourist destination as well as one of the world’s key business hubs.

Getting There By Air

Schiphol International Airport (AMS)
Tel: (0900) 7244 7465. Fax: (020) 604 1475.
E-mail: schiphol@xxlink.nl
Website: www.schiphol.nl

Schiphol, located 15km (9 miles) southwest of Amsterdam, is the fourth largest airport in Europe, with over 100 airlines flying to over 200 destinations. Schiphol ranks fourth behind London Heathrow, Frankfurt and Paris Charles de Gaulle, and has repeatedly been voted ‘Best Airport in Europe’ in numerous magazines and newspapers. The New Privium programme offers frequent flyers speedy transit through passport control and security (website: www.schiphol.nl/privium).

Major airlines: The national airline, KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines (tel: (020) 474 7747; website: www.klm.nl), flies direct to all major European, North American and Asia-Pacific cities. KLM UK (tel: (020) 474 7747; website: www.klmuk.com) flies to London Stansted and several regional airports throughout the UK. Transavia (tel: (020) 406 0406 or 0900 0737; website: www.transavia.nl), 80% of which is owned by KLM, operates scheduled flights to London Gatwick and Barcelona. Transavia has also recently launched a budget offshoot, using Schiphol as its hub, called Basiq Air (tel: (0900) 0737; website: www.basiqair.com). On the domestic front, KLM Cityhopper (tel: (020) 648 3456; website: www.klmcityhopper.nl) operates services between Amsterdam and Eindhoven. Other major airlines serving the airport include Air France, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, China Airlines, Easyjet, Egypt Air, Northwest Airlines and Continental Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Amsterdam: From London is 50 minutes; from New York is 7 hours; from Los Angeles is 10 hours 25 minutes; from Toronto is 7 hours; and from Sydney is 21 hours 20 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities at Schiphol are first rate, with bureaux de change, currency exchange machines, restaurants, duty-free shops, left-luggage, tour operators, a hotel reservation service and prayer rooms. Departure lounges also have funky chairs and plenty of space in which to relax before flying. Shower facilities and day rooms are available at the airport hotels. Wi-fi hot spots are also available. Car hire companies include Avis, Budget, Hertz, National and Sixt.

Business facilities: The Schiphol Business Centre (tel: (020) 653 2480; fax: (020) 653 2566) is open to all passengers. Facilities include fax, personal computer, telephone and secretarial services. The centre is open Monday to Friday 0830–1900. There is one conference room in the terminal, which can cater for groups of up to 55 delegates and must be booked in advance through the business centre. Coin operated fax machines are located throughout the airport terminal. Computers, printers and mobile telephones (for making and receiving both local and international calls) can be hired from KPN Telecom Rentcentre (tel: (020) 653 0999; fax: (020) 653 0998). There is also a press centre. Some major airlines provide executive lounges, which offer some business facilities.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: Connexxtions (tel: (020) 405 6506) operates a shuttle bus service to the city centre, every 20 minutes daily between 0600-2100 (journey time – approximately 20-30 minutes, although due to numerous stops, journeys can sometimes take up to an hour). The 55 hotels serviced include the Pulitzer, Krasnapolsky, Grand, Crowne Plaza, Renaissance, Carlton, Okura, Holiday Inn, Novotel and Park.

NS (tel: (0900) 9292/6; website: www.ns.nl) trains run between the airport and Amsterdam’s Centraal Station, daily every 15 minutes 0600-2400 (journey time – 20 minutes) and every hour throughout the night. A one-way, second-class ticket costs ¬3.10, or ¬5.50 return. There is also a direct link between Schiphol and Amsterdam’s RAI Congress Centre, with trains running every 15 minutes 0525-2410. Schiphol also has direct links to The Hague, Rotterdam and Vlissingen and other destinations throughout Holland and on into Belgium and France.

Official airport taxis pick up passengers from outside the arrivals hall. The journey to the city costs from ¬40 and takes approximately 15-25 minutes, depending on which part of the city is required. Book in advance at www.schipholtaxi.nl.

Getting There By Water

Amsterdam is a busy port city and one of the top 10 most important cruise ship harbours in Europe, with around 100 cruise ships visiting the city annually. Amsterdam’s business ports are run by Ports of Amsterdam (tel: (020) 523 4500; website: www.amsterdamports.nl), while information on cruise ship services is available from Amsterdamcruise (tel: (020) 551 2557; fax: (020) 625 2869; website: www.amsterdamcruise.com). The main cruise hub, which can handle two cruise ships at one time, is based at the funky passenger terminal at Oostelijke Handelskade, located on the edge of the city centre (tel: (020) 5091 000; website: www.ptamsterdam.com), which is equipped with restaurants, bars and ATMs. The Felison Terminal, on the IJ meer (tel: (0255) 521 111; website: www.felisonterminal.nl), was opened by the same operator in 2003. The main ferry terminal for services around Europe is situated further south, at Hook of Holland (tel: (017) 438 9333), where the terminal has a restaurant but no banking or exchange facilities.

Ferry services: Cross-channel ferries are run by StenaLine (tel: (08705) 70 70 70; website www.stenaline.co.uk), which operates a rail/fast-ferry service from London (Liverpool Street) to Amsterdam (Centraal Station), via Harwich and the Hook of Holland. There are two services daily, one in the morning and one in the evening (journey time – 8 hour 40 minutes).

Transport to the city: Although within walking distance, trains and buses connect the new cruise terminals with Amsterdam city centre. The Hook of Holland is connected by an express rail link with Centraal Station.

Getting There By Road

The Netherlands is connected to the rest of Europe by a superb network of motorways. Green ‘E’s indicate international highways, red ‘A’s indicate national highways and yellow ‘N’s indicate smaller routes. Although frontier formalities between The Netherlands, Germany and Belgium have now all but vanished, motorists (particularly on smaller roads) should be prepared to stop when asked to do so by a customs official.

Driving is on the right. Speed limits are 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on major roads and 50kph (30mph) in towns. Children under 12 years should not travel in the front seat. Seatbelts are compulsory. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%. The minimum driving age in The Netherlands is 18 years. An International Driving Permit is not required, as long as a national driving licence from the country of origin is held. EU pink format licences are accepted. Trailers and caravans are allowed in without documentation. A Green Card is advisable but not compulsory. Without it, drivers with motor insurance policies in their home country are granted only the minimum legal cover in The Netherlands – the Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the driver’s own policy.

The yellow cars of the Royal Dutch Touring Club, ANWB/Wegenwacht (tel: (070) 314 1420; website: www.anwb.nl), patrol major roads 24 hours a day, with qualified mechanics equipped to handle routine repairs.

Emergency breakdown service:
ANWB (0800) 0888

Routes to the city: Schiphol lies on the E19, from where it is an easy 18km (11 miles) drive into Amsterdam. The A10 is the Amsterdam ring road. The main route out of Amsterdam, toward Brussels, is the A2, heading south to join the A27 and finally the A16/E19 at Breda, which continues across the border to Antwerp. The A2 also connects wth Utrecht, from where the A12/E35 travels directly through the Duisburg-Essen conurbation, passing Düsseldorf, Cologne and continuing southeast until Frankfurt. Hanover is best reached by taking the E231 out of the city to connect with the A1/E30, becoming the A30/E30, which continues east to Hanover.

Approximate driving times to Amsterdam: From Brussels – 2 hours 30 minutes; from Hanover – 4 hours; from Frankfurt – 6 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Eurolines (tel: (020) 560 8788; e-mail: info@eurolines.nl; website: www.eurolines.nl) operates coach services, sometimes in conjunction with other national companies, to major cities throughout Europe, including London, Paris, Brussels and Frankfurt. Offices are located at Rokin 10 and the coach station, Amstelstation, Julianaplein 5 (tel: (020) 560 8787).

Getting There By Rail

Centraal Station, Stationsplein, is one of the largest railway terminals in Europe and is currently in the midst of a major renovation programme to make it more efficient and also a more salubrious place to be. The station has an impressive array of facilities, from showers and restaurants to hotel and travel booking services. The national rail provider is Nederlandse Spoorwegen – NS (tel: (0900) 9292/6; website: www.ns.nl), which runs an efficient network with frequent services covering destinations all over Holland and further afield into the rest of Europe. International tickets should ideally be reserved at least a week in advance.

Rail services: There are regular Eurostar trains (tel: (0990) 186 186, in the UK; website: www.eurostar.com) from London to Brussels, where a direct connection to Amsterdam can be caught after a short wait (journey time – 3 hours). THALYS (tel: (0900) 9228; website: www.thalys.com) high-speed services connect Amsterdam with Brussels (journey time – approximately 2 hours 30 minutes). There are frequent daytime services from many large Western European cities as well as night services.

Over the last few years, the reputation of The Netherlands’ railway network has suffered domestically, after part-privatisation led to maintenance problems, cancelled services and a public perception that the railways are not as efficient as they once were. There might be some light at the end of the train tunnel, with recent talk of new high-speed connections to France and Germany and an extension of the Eurostar service to Amsterdam.

Transport to the city: Centraal Station is located in the city centre. A number of trams and buses, as well as taxis, are available in the area immediately outside the main building.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Amsterdam’s integrated public transport system is run by the municipal transport company, GVB (tel: (020) 460 6060; website: www.gvb.nl), which has an information office at Centraal Station. The best way for one to get around the city is either on foot or by using the extensive tram, metro, bus and ferry networks. A map of all tram and bus routes in Amsterdam is available from tourist offices or the GVB office by Centraal Station, costing ¬1.

The Circle Tram 20 that used to ferry tourists around a city loop is no more, but trams are still a great way of getting around. Trams operate Monday to Friday 0600-2400 (Saturday from 0630 and Sunday from 0730). All trams leave from Centraal Station – trams 1 and 2 traverse the main canals, tram 17 provides a frequent, fast and dependable service, tram 16 takes a route to Museumplein and Concertgebouw, while trams 9 and 14 go to the Muziektheater and Waterlooplein market.

Amsterdam’s four metro lines all start at Centraal Station and serve the southeastern business district and the suburbs. The trains run Monday to Friday 0600-2415 (Saturday from 0630 and Sunday from 0730). An extension south to the RAI is planned for completion in 2011.

The outlying areas of the city (mostly the suburbs that the trams do not reach) are served by more than 30 bus lines, which run until midnight. Night buses run nightly from 0030-0730, after the other services have stopped (numbered from 71 to 79).

A free ferry service provides cyclists and pedestrians with connections to Amsterdam Noord, the area across the IJ. The main ferry landing is on De Ruijterkade (behind the Centraal Station). Ferries are frequent and operate between 0615-2057, with a limited service at the weekend (most ferries do not operate on Sunday). When taking a bicycle aboard, passengers should make sure to not break local etiquette and always go through the cyclist channel rather the pedestrian one. The Noord Canal across the IJ is a quiet and less taxing cycle route for visitors who find navigating the busy city too traumatic.

For single rides, a strippenkaart can be used. This needs to be stamped every time a tram, bus or metro is boarded – each journey uses one strip, plus a strip for every zone travelled. Once stamped, a ticket is valid for an hour, regardless of how often a change of tram or bus is made. It is cheaper for one to buy a strippenkaart before boarding the public transport system than it is to pay a cash fare. Strippenkaarten are available from tourist offices, tobacconists and large hotels for ¬1.60 for two units (the minimum required for travel in one zone), ¬6.20 for 15 units or ¬18.30 for 45 units. Not having a valid ticket incurs a spot fine of ¬37.40, plus the cost of the ticket; ticket inspections are common.

Visitors spending plenty of time travelling around the city are advised to buy a dagkaarten day pass, for ¬6.30, two-day pass for ¬10 and three-day pass for ¬13.

Water Travel
Not surprisingly, there are several modes of water travel in Amsterdam. In addition to public ferries, canal buses (tel: (020) 626 5574; website: www.canal.nl) travel between Centraal Station and the Rijksmuseum, every 25-45 minutes – fares vary between the different service providers, but expect to pay around ¬16 for a day pass or ¬1.50 for a single ticket. The special Museum Boat departs from Prins Hendrikkade, every 30 minutes in summer and every 45 minutes in winter, stopping off at the city’s main museums. Call (020) 622 2181 for more information.

Canal taxis, which can carry up to 40 passengers, are also available. They can either be hailed from the canal-side or ordered in advance daily 0800-0100, from Water Taxis (tel: (020) 535 6363; website: www.water-taxi.nl). The smallest taxi costs ¬85 for the first 30 minutes and ¬70 for each subsequent 30 minutes within the city limits.

Alternatively, visitors can hire pedalos (also known as canal bikes) and boats to explore the canals. These are available from Canal Bike, Weteringschans 24 (tel: (020) 626 5574; fax: (020) 624 1033; website: www.canal.nl), who have 100 canal bikes and are open daily 0900-1800. A four-person canal bike costs ¬8 per person per hour, if there is only one or two passengers, and ¬7 per person per hour, if there are three or four passengers. A deposit of ¬50 per canal bike is required. Canal Bike also organises group tours of Amsterdam and Utrecht.

Taxis
Rather than hailing a taxi in the street, it is more usual in Amsterdam for one to either order a taxi by phoning the Central Taxi Office (tel: (020) 677 7777) or pick one up at a taxi rank, which are located at Centraal Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein. Taxis, which have an illuminated ‘taxi’ sign on the roof, usually come quickly – unless it is raining or a Friday or Saturday night. Although they provide a good service, taxis are relatively expensive. A new system allows taxi drivers to set meters at different rates, so keep a keen eye on the rate in play.

Limousines
There are a number of limousine companies in Amsterdam, offering airport transfers and hourly or daily hire. Two possibilities are CS Limousine Service (tel: (020) 673 7888; fax: (020) 673 9045; website: www.limousineamsterdam.com) and Delden Limousine Service (tel: (020) 684 8408; fax: (020) 686 3638). Prices start at ¬145 for an airport transfer or ¬85 per hour, plus an extra ¬1.60 per kilometre travelled over 15 kilometres. Many of the drivers provide an informal guide service.

Driving in the City
Driving in Amsterdam is not recommended. Even for excursions outside the city, it is preferable to take the train. The city’s streets are not big enough to accommodate the tens of thousands of cars owned by the city’s residents, let alone the 500,000 tourists who annually arrive in their cars. As a result, parking spots are limited and expensive. Visitors are advised to park their car at a P+R (park and ride) lot, from where there are bus, tram and subway lines into the city centre. Motorists also need to watch out for cyclists and the special cycle lanes. Rush hours (0700-0900 and 1700-1900) are best avoided. Car headlights should be dimmed in built-up areas and it is illegal to use sidelights only.

Parking at the massive ArenA P+R, reached by the A1, A2 and A9 into the city, or the Stadionplein P+R, situated next to the Olympisch Stadion, costs ¬5.70 a day, which includes two free public transport tickets. In the city centre, cars must be parked in a designated parking space or in a car park. Parking meters can be recognised by a yellow sign with the letter ‘P’ and charges are split into three zones. Parking tickets for the most central zone A and zone B cost ¬2.80 per hour, while parking in zone C costs ¬1.70 per hour. City centre parking spaces can be reserved in advance, by going online (website: www.parkeerlijn.nl). Parking regulations are quite strict and there are tough measures for violating the city’s car parking laws, with wheel clamping common. The car pound (tel: (020) 555 9833) is located at Cruquiuskade 25 in Havens Oost, the Eastern Harbour district.

Car Hire
Conditions of hire vary, although, in most cases, the driver will have to be 25 years old and have held a valid national licence for one year. An International Driving Permit (IDP) is not needed, as long as a valid national licence is produced. Payment is usually made with a credit card bearing the name of the driver.

The major European firms are represented in Amsterdam. Cars are also available for hire through the airport and most hotels. The companies that have branches in the city centre include Avis, Nassaukade 380 (tel: (020) 683 6061; website: www.avis.com), Budget Car, Overtoom 121 (tel: (020) 612 6066; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz, Overtoom 333 (tel: (020) 612 2441; website: www.hertz.com).

Rates start at approximately ¬50 per day and ¬220 a week. Fare conditions vary and some companies have an additional mileage charge. Those hiring a car should always check that the rates include the minimum insurance cover required in Amsterdam.

Bicycle Hire
There are bicycle lanes that are marked out by white lines but cyclists will still need to watch out for cars, trams and pedestrians. Bicycles can be hired from Bike City, Bloemgracht 68-70 in Westerkerk (tel: (020) 626 3721; website: www.bikecity.nl), Damstraat Rent-A-Bike, Damstraat 20-22 (tel: (020) 625 5029; website: www.bikes.nl) and Macbike Too, Marnixstraat 220 (tel: (020) 626 6964; website: www.macbike.nl).

Bike hire (for a one-speed bicycle) costs approximately ¬7 for the first day and ¬5 for subsequent days. A deposit from ¬30 to ¬100 or a credit card imprint is usually required, along with an additional form of identification. Optional insurance, at around 50% of the hire charge, can also be taken.

When cycling around Amsterdam, cycling two abreast is illegal, as is a bicycle without reflector bands on both front and back wheels. Bikes should always be securely locked with two locks (one connecting the front wheel to a lamppost or railing and one securing the frame to something similarly as solid) as there is a thriving stolen bike market in the city.

Business

Business Profile
Amsterdam these days is as bustling and economically productive as it was during its golden age when its ships sailed to all corners of the Dutch Empire. The Dutch capital likes to see itself as being at the heart of Europe, and its location does give it easy access to a number of major European markets. European Cities Monitor recognised the Dutch capital as one of the top five business locations in Europe in 2002 and things have remained upbeat with major Job Cohen steering an increasingly steady ship.

There is no underplaying how important tourism is to Amsterdam and both September 11 and the war in Iraq did have an effect on numbers, particularly the lucrative North American market, though the situation has recovered strongly of late. Unemployment levels have dropped slightly in Amsterdam recently, with city-wide unemployment running at a rate of 5.5% by the end of 2004, lower than the national average of 6.7%.

Germany is the Netherlands’ biggest trading partner, with 25% of import and export trade, while other major players include Belgium, Luxembourg, France and the UK. On average, approximately 70-100 foreign companies set up in the Netherlands every year. They are attracted by Amsterdam’s prime position within Europe, with excellent international connections from the ever-expanding Schiphol airport and Amsterdam port, a strong infrastructure, a multilingual workforce, a stable political and economic climate and business-friendly policies.

Major companies with a presence in Amsterdam include ABM Amro Bank, Phillips and Shell, with IBM, Sony and Canon all having their European headquarters in the city. It is fitting in a city that was home to the world’s first ever public stock exchange that finance is a major part of the business world, with the financial sector employing approximately 8% of Amsterdam’s workforce and some 70 banks having a presence in the city. After finance, fashion and flowers are key sectors. Of all Amsterdam’s exports, tulips are probably the most famous. In terms of exports, fresh flowers are a large market and Heineken is the largest export brewery in the world, with sales to 150 countries. Over the last 20 years, Amsterdam has also emerged as a strong base in advanced technological industries, computing, telecommunications and biotechnology.

The facilities provided for businesses in Amsterdam are extensive. The Amsterdam RAI International Exhibition & Congress Center, Europaplein 8 (tel: (020) 549 1212; fax: (020) 646 4469; e-mail: corcom@rai.nl; website: www.rai.nl), is one of the country’s largest and one of the world’s leading convention centres. Business activity in Amsterdam is largely focused around the city centre, although also important are the port area and the new business parks on the city fringes. Commercial information is available from the Amsterdam Chamber of Commerce and Industry (tel: (020) 531 4568; fax: (020) 531 4699; e-mail: post@amsterdam.kvk.nl; website: www.kvk.nl) and from Amsterdam Promotion Foundation (website: www.amsterdampromotion.nl).

Internet cafes dot the city and increasingly many four and five star hotels are starting to offer wi-fi connections.

Business Etiquette
Business hours are Monday to Friday 0900–1700. The Dutch pride themselves on their efficient use of time, so punctuality is important. Dutch business associates should be addressed by their full name and title and not by their first name, unless they are much younger or have indicated that it is all right to do so. Most Dutch executives speak English, so it is not essential to have business cards translated into Dutch. However, it is important to have promotional material and instruction manuals translated into Dutch. It is a good idea for visiting businesspeople to put the date their company was founded (if it was a long time ago) and university degree details on their cards, as the Dutch respect history and education.

While the Dutch wear suits for business meetings, smart-casual wear is worn on social occasions. Business lunches and appointments in the evening are rare. If invited to the home of an associate, guests should bring flowers. If given a present, it is customary to unwrap it immediately.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Amsterdam is perfect for sightseeing as it is flat and compact, making it easy to walk around. The best way for visitors to get a real feel for the place is to head straight out on a canal tour, something that many locals have never done. Most of the main attractions are located within the historical core, usually within walking distance of each other, although the efficient tram and bus networks are close at hand for attractions further afield.

The most visited sites in the city are the many excellent museums, such as the Rijksmuseum, Anne Frank Museum, Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art, Van Gogh Museum, the NEMO Museum and the new Scheepvaartmuseum. Less cerebral pursuits are on offer among the grand facades and elegant museums, with brown cafés and prostitutes adorning windows all day and night in the red light districts. Away from these busy places, the city is also blessed with quiet canals and leafy parks, which provide an escape all year round, especially Vondelpark, with its open-air, free concerts during summer. Breaking away from the main tourist throng is the best way for one to discover the ‘real’ Amsterdam of grand old canal-side merchants’ houses where modern Amsterdamers still live, in an almost bucolic setting. As well as being the transport hub for the city, Amsterdam’s grand Centraal Station is also the gateway to a myriad half- and full-day trips, with regular and inexpensive train services all over the Netherlands.

Tourist Information
VVV Amsterdam Tourist Office
Stationsplein 10 (opposite Centraal Station)
Tel: (020) 551 2525 or 201 8800 or (0900) 400 4040. Fax: (020) 625 2869.
E-mail: info@amsterdamtourist.nl
Website: www.visitamsterdam.nl
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630.

Other VVV offices are located at Centraal Station, Leidseplein/Leidsestraat and at the airport. Services provided include general tourist information, hotel and package reservations, excursions and canal cruises, maps and guidebooks, walking tours, public transport tickets, theatre, concert and museum tickets, souvenirs and posters, telephone cards, VVV gift vouchers and currency exchange.

Passes
The Amsterdam Card offers tourists the use of public transport (tram, bus and underground), free admission to museums, a voucher booklet for 25% discount on several attractions and restaurants, a full-colour pass guide and a free canal boat trip. Attractions offering free entrance to Amsterdam Card holders include the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, Amsterdams Historisch Museum and Hortus Botanicus. The card also offers a 25% discount on the airport train, a free cup of coffee at Restaurant La Place and five free postcards at Café Ristretto.

Valid for one, two or three days, costing ¬33, ¬43 and ¬53 respectively, the Amsterdam Card is available for purchase from the VVV Amsterdam tourist offices, as well as a number of hotels.

Key Attractions

Rijksmuseum
The largest and most popular museum in the Netherlands was opened in 1885 and has grown steadily ever since. Today, it is in the midst of the biggest rebuilding programme in its history. Under the title of ‘The Masters’ much of its most famous work, though, is still on show in the impressively designed Phillips Wing and as much of the rest of the collections are being put on display as possible.

Jan Luijenstraat 1
Tel: (020) 674 7047. Fax: (020) 674 7001.
E-mail: info@rijksmuseum.nl
Website: www.rijksmuseum.nl
Transport: Trams 5, 6, 7 or 10.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (subject to change with ongoing work).
Admission: ¬9 (concessions available).

Anne Frankhuis (Anne Frank House)
The queues can be horrendous at the small but very popular Anne Frank House, which annually attracts roughly half a million people. It is the historic home where Anne Frank, her family and four other Jewish people hid from the occupying Germans during World War II, after fleeing their native Germany. Finally caught by the Nazis, after two years in hiding, they were taken off to concentration camps, where Anne died. However, her father survived and published her diary, which has been translated into 50 languages. The story of how they were saved by local people for so long sometimes masks the reality that the city’s Jewish population was all but wiped out during the war.

Prinsengracht 263, Westerkerk
Tel: (020) 556 7100. Fax: (020) 620 7999.
E-mail: museumsecretariaat@annefrank.nl
Website: www.annefrank.nl
Transport: Trams 13, 14 or 17.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Sep-Mar); daily 0900-2100 (Apr-Aug).
Admission: ¬7.50 (concessions available).

Van Gogh Museum
This spacious museum houses a permanent display of 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 700 letters by Van Gogh, as well as works by Toulouse-Lautrec and Gauguin. A new wing is being used to display temporary exhibitions, usually of 19th century art.

Paulus Potterstraat 7
Tel: (020) 570 5200. Fax: (020) 570 5222.
E-mail: info@vangogh.nl
Website: www.vangoghmuseum.nl
Transport: Trams 2, 3, 5, 12 or 16.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800, Fri until 2200.
Admission: ¬10 (concessions available).

Scheepvaartmuseum (Netherlands Maritime Museum)
The highlight of the maritime museum is the newly built reconstruction of an old Dutch East Indiaman that is moored just offshore. The ship may have no engine but it looks impressive and its confined interior is authentic. The museum helps open up the reality of the country’s rich maritime past when the Dutch were major global players and their fleet ventured as far as modern day Indonesia, Goa and Macau.

Katterburgerplein 1
Tel: (020) 523 2222. Fax: (020) 523 2213.
Website: www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl
Transport: Bus 22 or 32.
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: ¬7.50 (concessions available).

Museum Het Rembrandthuis
This museum, a charming three-storey house, built in the early 17th century, is where Rembrandt lived for nearly 20 years. Recently, a museum wing has been added, with more space for a permanent collection of his work. It is home to a comprehensive collection of 250 of the artist’s etchings and self-portraits. The work of Rembrandt’s teachers and students are also on display, which adds depth and dialogue to Rembrandt’s own work.

Jodenbreestraat 4-6
Tel: (020) 520 0400. Fax: (020) 520 0401.
E-mail: museum@rembrandthuis.nl
Website: www.rembrandthuis.nl
Transport: Trams 4, 9 or 14; metro Nieuwmarkt; boat to Waterlooplein or Zwanenburgerwal.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1300-1700.
Admission: ¬7.50 (concessions available).

Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art
The best collection of modern art in Amsterdam is currently located in a temporary home whilst work continues on Museumplein. The collection includes Dutch and international art from the second half of the 19th century onwards, with works by Picasso, Cézanne, Chagall and Monet, as well as photography, video, film and industrial design. Recent Dutch artists on display include Mondrian, De Kooning and Lichtenstein.

Oosterdokskade 5
Tel: (020) 573 2911. Fax: (020) 675 2716.
E-mail: info@stedelijk.nl
Website: www.stedelijk.nl
Transport: Trams 2, 3, 5, 12 or 16; bus 63.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800, Thu 1000-2100.
Admission: ¬9.

Amsterdams Historisch Museum (Amsterdam Historical Museum)
The Amsterdam Historical Museum shows how this city grew from a small medieval town into a modern city. Housed in a former orphanage that dates back to 1524, the museum is filled with paintings, prints and archaeological finds. One of the most interesting exhibits is an 18th-century coach without wheels. According to council regulations (and to reduce the noise of wheels on the cobbled streets) wealthy Amsterdammers had to travel by sleigh, even in summer. The entrance fee to the museum includes free entry to the Civic Guards Gallery, a glass-roofed ‘street’ between Kalverstraat and the Begijnhof, which is lined with 15 massive portraits of the Amsterdam Civic Guards, dating from the 17th century. However, the Rijksmuseum has the most famous painting of the Civic Guard – Rembrandt’s Nightwatch (see above). The museum’s courtyards are a relaxing place to be on a warm summer’s day with the restaurant offering outside tables.

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357
Tel: (020) 523 1822. Fax: (020) 620 7789.
E-mail: info@ahm.amsterdam.nl
Website: www.ahm.nl
Transport: Trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 14, 16, 24 or 25.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1100-1700.
Admission: ¬6 (concessions available).

Heineken Experience
The award winning Heineken Experience is a self-guided, multimedia delve into the workings of the world’s largest beer exporter. There is plenty of information on the company’s rich history and also the ‘Bottle Ride’, where visitors get to feel what it is like to be a beer bottle during the production process. At the end of the tour, there is, of course, the chance to sample the hallowed brew in the ‘See You Again Bar’. People do come back judging by the fact that in April 2005, they celebrated their one millionth visitor.

Stadhouderskade 78
Tel: (020) 523 9666. Fax: (020) 523 9738.
E-mail: info@heinekenexperience.nl
Website: www.heinekenexperience.nl
Transport: Trams 16, 24 or 25.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: ¬10 (concessions available).

Sub-Culture Museums
Amsterdam is infamous for its Sex Museum, but it also boasts the dubious charms of the Hash Museum and the Torture Museum. The extremely tacky Sex Museum, the only one in Europe, is full of erotica (objets d’art, photos, prints, paintings and videos) dating from the Roman era to about 1960, although somehow manages to be totally devoid of eroticism. The Hash Museum is of interest to those visitors who come to Amsterdam in search of coffee shops and would like to learn a little more about the hallowed weed, while the Torture Museum caters for another sub-group of society altogether. Nevertheless, it is tongue-in-cheek enough to be of interest to all. The three museums are all within walking distance in the city centre. Note the Hash Museum has mooted plans to move 130 Oudezijds Achterburgwal by the end of 2005.

Hash Museum
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148
Tel: (020) 623 5961.
Website: www.hashmuseum.com
Transport: Trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24 or 25.
Opening hours: Daily 1100-2200.
Admission: ¬5.70 (concessions available).

Sex Museum
Damrak 18
Tel: (020) 622 8376.
Website: www.sexmuseumamsterdam.com
Transport: A short walk from Centraal Station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2330.
Admission: ¬2.50.

Torture Museum
Singel 449
Tel: (020) 320 6642.
Website: www.torturemuseum.com
Transport: A short walk from Centraal Station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200.
Admission: ¬5.

Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace)
The Royal Palace, designed by Jacob van Campen, was built in 1648, as Amsterdam’s city hall. When King Louis Napoleon arrived in Amsterdam, in 1808, he had the city hall turned into a palace. The large collection of Empire-style furniture, chandeliers and clocks date from this period. Although the palace is still the official royal residence, the royal family lives in The Hague. However, Queen Beatrix does host official functions here.

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 147
Tel: (020) 620 4060. Fax: (020) 623 3819.
E-mail: info@kon-paleisamsterdam.nl
Website: www.koninklijkhuis.nl
Transport: Trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24 or 25.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Thurs, Sat and Sun 1230-1700; guided tours need to be booked two weeks in advance.
Admission: ¬4.50 (concessions available).

NEMO Museum
The funky and modern NEMO Museum is an unmistakable sight on the banks of the IJ. Just a short stroll away from Centraal Station, this museum attempts to defy the crusty image of some traditional museums by offering plenty of hands-on exhibits to stimulate young minds and keep them occupied, as well as provide more information on science and technology for older visitors. This bright, relaxed venue is a good antidote to Amsterdam’s other, perhaps more stuffy museums, especially for younger visitors. The rooftop has a beach area, a surreal place to take in the rays on a sunny day.

Oosterdok 2
Tel: (020) 531 3233 or (900) 919 1100. Fax: (020) 531 3535.
E-mail: info@e-nemo.nl
Website: www.e-nemo.nl
Transport: Bus 22.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: ¬11 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Vondelpark
Named after a famous Dutch poet, the Vondelpark is known as the ‘green lung’ of Amsterdam. It contains 49 hectares (120 acres) of ponds, gardens, lakes, playgrounds, cafés and a bandstand. During summer, there are regular free concerts. At times, palm readers and buskers (African drummers, classical quartets and jazz singers) provide entertainment. Just a short walk from the Leidseplein, the Vondelpark is an ideal place for visitors to get away from it all.

Vondelpark, Roemer Visscherstraat
Tel: (020) 676 5860.
E-mail: info@vondelpark.tv
Website: www.vondelpark.tv
Transport: Tram 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 10 or 12.
Opening hours: Daily dawn until dusk.
Admission: Free.

Nieuwe Kerk (New Church)
Despite its name, the building of the original church that stood on this site was started in 1408, as the congregation had outgrown the Oude Kerk (Old Church). The present structure dates to the 17th century, the previous wooden church having been badly damaged by fire. One of the most interesting pieces inside the church is the pulpit. Rising to a height of more than 10m (33ft), it took sculptor Albert Jansz Vinckenbrinck almost 20 years (1645-1664) to create. A close look at the carved ‘rope’ of the handrail will reveal mischievous angels sliding down it. Located next door to the Royal Palace, on the Dam, the Nieuwe Kerk has been used for the inauguration of Dutch monarchs since 1815 – Queen Beatrix was crowned here in 1980. The church is also renowned for excellent exhibitions and it is rated as one of top three exhibition locations in the Netherlands.

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
Tel: (020) 638 6909, for recorded information.
E-mail: mail@nieuwekerk.nl
Website: www.nieuwekerk.nl
Transport: Tram 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24 or 25.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1100-1700 (can vary).
Admission: Variable according to exhibition; often free.

Hortus Botanicus
The very pretty Hortus Botanicus is home to more than 800 plants from all over the world. It is also one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world, established as a ‘Hortus Medicus’ herb garden in 1638. The garden became an ornamental garden, displaying foreign plants brought back by the East India Company, from as far afield as South Africa, India, Indonesia, Australia and Japan. Conducted tours take place on Sunday at 1300 and last for 60-90 minutes.

Plantage Middenlaan 2a
Tel: (020) 625 9021. Fax: (020) 625 7006.
E-mail: hortus.amsterdam@wxs.nl
Website: www.hortus-botanicus.nl
Transport: Metro Waterlooplein; tram 7 or 9.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1700. Close at 1600 in Dec-Jan and stay open until 2100 in Jul-Aug.
Admission: ¬6 (concessions available).

Roemer Visscherstraat
Also known as United Europe, or Seven Countries Houses, the extraordinary street, Roemer Visscherstraat, was built in 1894, by architect Tjeerd Kuipers, with the intention of focusing on the history of European architecture. Lying between the Vondelpark and Leidseplein, numbers 20 to 30a of this street provide a one-minute excursion through seven European cities. Number 20, with its Gothic windows, is based on romantic German architecture. Number 22 is a miniature French Loire château, while 24 is a Moorish masterpiece reminiscent of Granada’s Alhambra. There is an Italian palazzo at number 26, next door to which, with its onion-shaped dome, is a house reminiscent of a Russian cathedral. Number 30 is a Renaissance-style Dutch house, while 30a is an English cottage.

Roemer Visscherstraat 20-30a
Transport: Tram 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 10 or 12.

Houseboat Museum
Living on a houseboat sounds like an alluring way of life and it is increasingly popular in the Amsterdam area, partly due to the city’s chronic housing shortage. This modest museum, reputed to be the only one of its kind in the world, attempts to delve into this unique way of life, answering questions about what it is like to live on a boat in this historic city. The boat is much as it would be as a house (with a living room, shower, toilet and bedroom) and is a far better way of scouring a houseboat that poking through the windows of a real one, as many curious tourists cannot help themselves doing.

Opposite Prisengracht 296
Tel: (020) 427 0750.
E-mail: info@houseboatmuseum.nl
Website: www.houseboatmuseum.nl
Transport: Trams 13, 14 or 17.
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1100-1700 (Mar-Oct), Fri-Sun 1100-1700 (Nov-Feb).
Admission: ¬3 (concessions available).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Amsterdam Tourist Office – VVV (tel: (020) 551 2525 or (0900) 400 4040; fax: (020) 625 2869; e-mail: info@amsterdamtourist.nl; website: www.visitamsterdam.nl) publishes a number of brochures detailing informative and interesting walking tours of the city. The series A Walk Through& includes Maritime Amsterdam, Jewish Amsterdam and The Jordaan. Another, Amsterdam in the Footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh, covers places associated with the artist.

Bus Tours
The De Opstapper mini-bus is run by GVB (tel: (0900) 9292; website: www.gvb.nl). The hop-on hop-off bus circles away from the Centraal Station and curves around Prinsengracht towards Waterlooplein and then back. It leaves every 10 minutes and, as there are no dedicated stops, passengers just tell the driver where they want to get off. Standard public transport strippenkaarten for one zone, at ¬1.60, are valid, as are day cards (see Getting Around), otherwise, tickets are available for purchase from the driver, also at ¬1.60.

Water Tours
Probably the best way to see Amsterdam is from one of the many canal tour boats available. There are a number of companies operating these tours. The hour-long itinerary varies little but the price and delivery of information does. Visitors should choose from The Best of Holland, Damrak 34 (tel: (020) 624 6340; website: www.asiacompass.nl), Lindbergh, Damrak 26 (tel: (020) 622 2766; website: www.lindbergh.nl), Lovers, opposite Prins Hendrikkade 25-27 (tel: (020) 530 1090; website: www.lovers.nl), and Rondvaarten, opposite Kooy BV Rokin 125 (tel: (020) 623 3810). The tours run throughout the year, at regular intervals during the day. Passengers can choose either to go once in a loop or use the boats as a hop-on hop-off way of getting around the main attractions. The price per adult starts at ¬8.50, for the basic once-round loop. Other boat tours that combine the cruises with visits to various museums or take in the canals by night are also available.

Bicycle Tours
Yellow Bike, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29 (tel: (020) 620 6940; fax (020) 620 7140; website: www.yellowbike.nl), operates tours between April and November, with prices starting at ¬18.50 for a three-hour tour of the city, including the Vondelpark and the Jordaan. Tours are conducted and English but German, French, Spanish or Italian speaking guides also can be arranged on request. All tours depart from Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, which is a five-minute walk from the Centraal Station.

Excursions

The national tourist office (website: www.visitholland.com) can provide information on travelling outside Amsterdam.

For a Half Day

Castricum: A 25-minute train journey from Centraal Station, approximately 40km (25 miles) north of Amsterdam, this coastal town is wonderful for getting away from it all. Bikes are available for hire, costing ¬8 per day, at the train station (tel: (0251) 654 035, for reservations). Maps can be obtained from the station restaurant, before cycling through beautiful woodlands and meadows to reach the dunes. VVV Castricum, Dorpsstraat 62 (tel: (0251) 652 009; fax: (0251) 672 363; e-mail: info@vvvcastricum.nl; website: www.vvvcastricum.nl) can provide further information.

Marken and Volendam: Two of the region’s prime tourist attractions, these pretty fishing villages are easily accessible from Amsterdam. Marken is situated on an island, joined to the mainland by a bridge, while Volendam is situated on the banks of the IJsselmeer, both approximately 15km (9 miles) north of the city. The locations both have plenty of atmosphere – there are lots of wooden houses and many of the locals still wear traditional dress. Visitors can wander through streets of quaint old houses, dress up in traditional costume and learn how to buy and sell fish at the Volendam fish auction. The outing can be extended into a full-day tour, by stopping off for a fresh fish lunch and visiting the Volendam's Museum, where one old sailor’s collection of over a million cigar bands is on display. Volendam offers a variety of watersports, including excellent windsurfing. Transport is through an organised coach tour or the excellent bus service from Centraal Station. Departure times are available from the public transport information line (tel: (0900) 9292). VVV Marken, De Zarken 2 Monnickendam (tel: (0299) 651 998) and VVV Volendam, Zeestraat 37, Volendam (tel: (0299) 363 747; fax (0299) 368 484; e-mail: info@vvv-volendam.nl; website: www.vvv-volendam.nl) can provide further information.

For a Whole Day

Tulips: Between the last week in March and the last week in May, is the best time to head for the 28 hectares (69 acres) of the Keukenhof Gardens, Stationsweg 166a (tel: (0252) 465 555; fax: (0252) 465 565; e-mail: info@keukenhof.nl; website: www.keukenhof.nl). Open daily 0900-1800, the themed gardens are filled with tulips, narcissi and hyacinths; entrance is ¬12.50 (concessions available). Trains run from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station to Leiden, from where a shuttle bus connects to Keukenhof. Eight kilometres (5 miles) north of Keukenhof is Haarlem, where the Frans Roozen Nurseries and Tulip Show, Vogelenzangweg 49 (tel: (023) 584 7245), can be visited from late March to late May, daily 0800-1930; entrance is free. Haarlem town centre is a beautiful mixture of 16th- and 17th-century buildings, with two fine museums. The Frans Hals Museum, Heiligland 62, is home to paintings by the artist of the same name, while St Bavokerk Cathedral, contains a 5,000-pipe organ, which Mozart is reputed to have played. Regular trains from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station run to Haarlem. VVV Haarlem, Stationsplein 1, Haarlem (tel: (0900) 616 1600; fax: (023) 534 0537; e-mail: info@wvzk.nl) can provide further information.

Rotterdam: Holland’s second largest city is often neglected by tourists but has a lot to offer. It might be most renowned as the home to Europe’s largest port and it is, to some extent, blighted by the mass of industrial infrastructure that goes with this. Nevertheless, Europoort is an attraction in itself, with daily boat tours of the massive port. Rotterdam has a buzz and character, which was further enhanced by its stint as European City of Culture in 2001. Situated 45km (28 miles) southerly to Amsterdam and neighbouring The Hague, this city boasts a number of first-rate museums, an impressively modern city centre and plenty of shopping opportunities. The city’s nightlife is also legendary, with a more cutting edge and raffish feel than touristy Amsterdam. In addition to this, the red-light districts of Rotterdam have a harder edge that is a million miles away from the much tamer tourist venues in Amsterdam. Over the last few decades, the city has boldly let itself become a testing ground for the avant-garde ideas of some of the world’s more esoteric architects, with a variety of stunning and challenging buildings dotted around the city. Regular trains run to Rotterdam from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station (journey time – 1 hour). ANWB/VVV Rotterdam, Coolsingel 67, Rotterdam (tel: (010) 413 3124 or (0900) 403 4065; fax: (010) 413 3124; e-mail: info@vvv.rotterdam.nl; website: www.vvv.rotterdam.nl) can provide further information.

Sport

Football is the favourite sport in Amsterdam and the city is home to Ajax (website: www.ajax.nl), one of the top Dutch football teams, along with PSV Eindhoven and Feyenoord Rotterdam. Ajax is ranked among the top European clubs, thanks to their success over the years in major European competitions. The team plays at the spectacularly high-tech Amsterdam Arena, Arena Boulevard 29 (tel: (020) 311 1444; fax: (020) 311 1480; website: www.amsterdamarena.nl). If there are no matches being played, visitors can still look around the Arena’s World of Ajax museum (tel: (020) 311 1333), which charts the history of the club, as well as take a tour of the stadium. Admission to the museum is ¬3.50. A valid passport is required to buy match tickets. The Royal Dutch Football Association (KNVB) organises the Dutch Football League, which is divided into the Eredivisie (major league) and Eerste Divisie (premier league).

A truly spectacular sight in Amsterdam in winter is a frozen canal – all the more so when the local people don their skates and claim the smart Keizergracht as their own ice rink.

Formula One racing fans might want to visit Zandvoort, 5km (3 miles) west of Haarlem, where the Dutch Grand Prix used to be held, before it was cancelled due to safety reasons.

Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase direct from the football clubs and individual venues.

Fitness Centres: Club Sportif, Valkenburgerstraat 28 (tel: (020) 620 6631; fax: (020) 638 3531), offers aerobics, tennis and fitness facilities. It is open Monday to Friday 1000-2400 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1800. Fitness Aerobic Centre Jansen, Rokin 109-111 (tel: (020) 626 9366), is open Monday to Friday 1000-2230 and Saturday and Sunday 1200-2000. The two new Splash Healthclubs (website: www.healthclubsplash.nl) are located at Lijnbaansgracht 243 (tel: (020) 422 0280) and Looiersgracht 26-30 (tel: (020) 624 8404).

Golf: Amstelborgh, Borchlandweg 6-12 (tel: (020) 563 3333; fax: (020) 697 1306; e-mail: info@golfclubamstelborgh.nl; website: www.golfclubamstelborgh.nl) is a nine-hole public course, where the green fees start at ¬10. It is located a 10-minute walk from Duivendrecht metro station. Amsterdamse Golfclub, Bauduinlaan 35 (tel: (020) 497 7866; website: www.amsterdamsegolfclub.nl) is an 18-hole course built in a reclaimed polder. Green fees are between ¬30 and ¬35 and membership is not required.

Tennis: Frans Otten Stadium, Stadionstraat 10 (tel: (020) 662 8767; fax: (020) 577 1145; website: www.fransottenstadion.nl) has tennis courts. It is open Monday to Friday 0700-0100, Saturday and Sunday 1000-1800. Hire of a court costs from ¬15.

Shopping

Amsterdam has much to offer the avid shopper with more than 10,000 shops. On the one hand, there are international fashion labels, books, arts and antiques, while on the other, there are local specialities to buy, such as tulip bulbs, chocolates, cumin cheese, stoneware bottles of jenever (Dutch gin), blue Delft china and diamonds.

The main shopping areas are Leidsestraat, between the Leidseplein and Spui, Kalverstraat and Nieuwendijk, leading from the Munt Tower via the Dam to near Centraal Station. Pedestrianised Leidsestraat, with its fashion boutiques, large fashion store (Metz & Co), souvenir shops and newsagents, is Amsterdam’s answer to Oxford Street and the perfect place for tourists to combine a spot of shopping with canal views and café stops. At the northern end of Leidsestraat is Singel, the floating flower market. Kalverstraat offers a combination of classy department stores, fashion boutiques and the luxurious shopping centre of Kalvertoren, while Nieuwendijk, one of Amsterdam’s oldest shopping streets, is home to moderately priced fashion, shoe and CD stores.

Amsterdam has gained a reputation for cool clubbing clobber, with Clubwear House, Spuistraat 242, and ZX Fashion, Kerkstraat 113, two of the funkiest outlets, with the latter also boasting a hair salon that specialises in outlandish styles. Both shops also provide insider information on the city’s coolest parties, which few tourists ever get to hear about. DKNY is located on PC Hoofstraat 60, while Armani is at number 39-41, in the same upmarket shopping street. Maison de Bonneterie, Rokin 140-2, is the Harrods of Amsterdam – here one can find top quality men’s and women’s clothing and fine household goods. The Dam offers a couple of options, including Bijenkorf, Dam 1, the premier department store in Amsterdam, which sells a good range of clothing, accessories, cosmetics and household items. Magna Plaza, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182, is located in a fairy-tale, neo-Gothic pile that was once the General Post Office. Inside are 40 shops ranging from Virgin Megastore to Shu Uemura Cosmetics. Emerging shopping areas include KNSM island, with its designer outlets, and Haarlemmerdijk and Tussen de Bogen, with their speciality and niche shops. Wini, Haarlemstraat 29, is a favourite of the local clubbing set with hip clothes and retro fashion.

Amsterdam has 25 markets for those seeking a bargain; they are open during normal shopping hours (see below), weather permitting. There is an interesting flea market around the City Hall and Opera. The busy, cosmopolitan food and clothes market is in Albert Cuypstraat. The colourful Bloemenmarkt (flower market) on the Singel is not to be missed, while the organic food Boerenmarkt (farmers’ market) is in Noordermarkt, which is open Saturday 0900-1600 (in winter until 1500). The Vogelmarkt (Bird Market), also at Noordermarkt, is open Saturday 0800-1300.

Traditional shopping hours are Tuesday to Friday 0900 or 1000-1800 and Saturday 0900-1700. However, some shops now stay open later, particularly on Thursday. Generally, the shops are closed all day on Sunday and on Monday morning. There is a 20% sales tax on luxury goods and 5% on other items. Visitors from outside the EU can obtain a tax refund at shops displaying the tax-free shopping sign. Shoppers must fill in the appropriate forms and present this to customs at the airport, before check-in. The signed form is then handed to ABN AMRO banks in the departure terminals. Global Refund (tel: (023) 524 1909; fax: (023) 524 6164; e-mail: taxfree@nl.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information.

Culture

Amsterdam has always had a vibrant and varied cultural scene but over the last few decades it has blossomed, thanks to a renewed interest in Dutch culture. First and foremost, Amsterdam is a musical city, offering a range of musical styles from street performers and carillons to the more highbrow midday and evening performances in the Concertgebouw (Concert Hall), Concertgebouwplein 2–6 (tel: (020) 671 8345, for reservations or 675 4411, for information; website: www.concertgebouw.nl), which is noted for its superb acoustics. On most summer evenings, it is possible for punters to attend an organ concert or a recital of Baroque chamber music in one of Amsterdam’s magnificent old churches, such as Oude Kerk and Nieuwe Kerk.

Amsterdam stages around 15,000 performances every year (roughly 40 a day), although there is a more concentrated cultural season lasting from September to the end of June. Shows do not cost a fortune and a relaxed dress code means that even the opera can be attended in fairly casual clothes.

Tickets to cultural events can be booked through AUB, Leidseplein 26, open 0900-2100 (tel: (0900) 0191, for ¬0.40 per minute; website: www.aub.nl). AUB only accepts payment by credit card. Online listings for cultural events are available online (website: www.visitamsterdam.nl).

Music: The Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6 (tel: (020) 671 8345, for reservations or 675 4411, for information; website: www.concertgebouw.nl) is not only home to the world-famous Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra (website: www.concertgebouworkest.nl) conducted by Mariss Jansons but also plays host to visiting companies and international soloists. Free concerts take place in either the Grote Zaal (Great Hall) or Kleine Zaal (Recital Hall) of the Concertgebouw, on Wednesday 1230-1300.

The Beurs de Berlage, Damrak 62a (tel: (020) 530 4141; fax: (020) 620 4701; website: www.beursvanberlage.net), is an architecturally fascinating building, where the 140-member Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.orkest.nl) is based. The Netherlands Chamber Orchestra (website: www.orkest.nl) and guest artists tend to perform in the building’s ‘glass box’, the Aga Zaal. The Boekmanzaal is part of the Muziektheater (Opera House), Amstel 3 (tel: (020) 551 8117; fax: (020) 551 8025; website: www.muziektheater.nl), home of Netherlands Opera (website: www.dno.nl). It holds a free lunchtime concert at 1230-1300 on Tuesday (October to June), often performed by members of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, the Choir of the Netherlands Opera (website: www.dno.nl) and the Netherlands Ballet Orchestra (website: www.balletorkest.nl ).

Less formal concerts are performed by four of the city’s 17th-century carillons, on a weekly basis. Bell ringing takes place on Tuesday 1200-1300 at Westertoren (Western Tower), Thursday at Zuidertoren (Southern Tower) and Friday at Munttoren. The bell ringer at Oude Kerkstoren (Old Church Tower) gets to sleep in – concerts are Saturday 1600-1700.

Theatre: Some international fringe theatre companies perform in English and the Stadsschouwburg (Municipal Theatre), Leidseplein 26 (tel: (020) 624 2311; fax: (020) 623 8685; website: www.stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl), often stages English-language theatre productions, as well as dance performances. Musicals and cabaret find a home in the Koninklijk Theater Carré (Royal Carré Theatre), Amstel 115-125 (tel: (020) 524 9452; fax: (020) 524 9444; website: www.theatercarre.nl), situated on the River Amstel, and in the nearby Kleine Komedie, Amstel 56-58 (tel: (020) 624 0534 (tickets) or 626 5917 (information); e-mail: algemeen@dekleinekomedie.nl; website: www.dekleinekomedie.nl), a charming little theatre dating back to 1788.

Dance: The Dutch National Ballet (website: www.het-nationale-ballet.nl) is considered one of the best and most versatile companies in Western Europe. Its many devotees flock to the Muziektheater (Opera House) (see Music above), a 1,600-seat coliseum overlooking the Amstel River, to see the great classical ballets as well as works by 20th-century dance innovators. The Muziektheater also plays host to the Netherlands Dance Theatre (website: www.ndt.nl), Holland’s other world-class ballet company, as well as foreign companies. Situated on a curve of the Amstel, in the heart of the city, this cultural landmark is, despite its size, amazingly intimate. The venue is closed in July.

Film: The multi-screen City, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 13-25 (tel: (0900) 1458), on the Leidseplain, shows Hollywood blockbusters. But Amsterdam is also known for its arty cinemas, such as the art deco Tuschinski, Reguliersbreestraat 26-28 (tel: (0900) 1458), which shows films from all over the world. Films are rarely dubbed into Dutch but are shown in the original language with subtitles.

Films shot in Amsterdam include Mike van Diem’s Karakter (1997), Dick Maas’s Amsterdamned (1987), Diamonds are Forever (1971), and more recently, Ocean’s Twelve (2005).

Cultural Events: Every 30 April, a huge street party and carnival marks Queen’s Day and the city is awash with orange. Floating Amsterdam occupies the last two weeks of May, when outdoor productions are staged on the River Amstel. Every June, the month-long Holland Festival, featuring music, dance and drama, takes place. Tickets can be booked in advance through tourist offices, but some same-day sale tickets are always held at the Musiektheater box office. In August, concerts are performed on boats ringing the Prinsengracht canal. All summer long there are regular cultural events in Vondelpark.

Literary Notes: Ian McEwan won the 1998 Booker Prize for his Amsterdam (1998), which is partly set in the city. The city also provided the inspiration for part of John Irving’s novel, A Widow for One Year (1999), and Sidney Sheldon’s If Tomorrow Comes (1986). Albert Camus wrote La Chute (1970) while based here. More recently, Deborah Moggach’s Tulip Fever (1998) depicted life in 16th-century Amsterdam. The city has played a prominent role in the works of Dutch authors – two well-known books that have been translated into English include Blue Mondays (1994) by Arnon Grunberg and Bitter Herbs (1957) by Marga Minco. The unique ambience of Amsterdam permeates the work of Nicolas Freeling, in his detective novel, A Long Silence (1972). Perhaps the most famous work to come out of Amsterdam, however, is The Diary of Anne Frank (1947). Marga Minco’s Empty House (1986) might be less famous but it explores some of the same issues. A lighter work is Janwillem van de Wetering’s Amsterdam Cops (2001), a collection of cop stories that are mainly set in the capital’s underworld. Geert Mak’s Amsterdam: A Brief Life (2001) is ostensibly a guide to the city but its historical depth and highly personalised detail make it an interesting read for repeat visitors wanting to delve further under Amsterdam’s skin. My ‘Dam Life (2003), by Sean Condon, is a colourful, in turns humorous and dark, account of the Australian author’s experience of living in the city.

Nightlife

Amsterdam is one of Europe’s top party cities. At night, it is like a human zoo, with all sorts of weird and wonderful activities on offer. The city can be the venue for a romantic stroll, with the lights of the bridges and old houses reflected in the canals, or a night spent bar hopping from buzzing bar to buzzing bar, before partying until dawn in one of Europe’s top clubs. It could even be a nefarious evening, dipping into the dirty underbelly of a city with few inhibitions. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of bars dotted around Amsterdam and it can be just as pleasant to idle away a few hours in a neighbourhood bar as it is to spend the night in one of the trendier venues in the centre of the city. If, however, you are interested in listening to live bands and dancing the night away, then you should head for the Rembrantsplein-Leidseplein area. If you want seedy, then head for Walletjes and indulge. Over the last few years, the trend in Amsterdam is the renovation of city centre townhouses to produce club/bar/restaurant hybrids.

Amsterdam’s clubs usually open at 2200 and, by law, must close promptly at 0400 during the week and 0500 at the weekend. The best nights to go out tend to be Thursday and Saturday. The mainstream clubs prefer a smart-casual dress, with no trainers or jeans. Anything goes at the funkier, more cutting edge venues. Only those over 18 years can purchase alcohol in bars and clubs and drinks cost in the region of ¬5-6.

Amsterdam tolerates the sale and use of soft drugs, which centres around smoking cafés or coffee shops. These are easy to recognise, as their names normally include words like ‘free’, ‘high’, ‘happy’ and ‘space’, and, of course, you can smell them too. These places usually have a drugs ‘menu’, with all sorts of nefarious offerings available.

Bars: De Waag, Nieumarkt, is a trendy bar in the red-light district, which also stages cultural performances and exhibitions. Whisky lovers should head for De Stil, Spuistraat 326, which boasts 100s single malt whiskies as well as old whisky barrels which serve as tables. The owners are friendly and will coach whisky virgins through the first stages of discovering whisky unaided by cola or water as a mixer. Meanwhile, beer aficionados should make a beeline for De Wildman, Nieuwezijds Kolk 3, which has an array of over 200 bottled beers from all over Europe. Satellite Sports Café, Leidseplein 11, is tacky and touristy but a great venue for those missing their football and rugby.

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal is one of the most hip areas in the city for bar/clubs. Seymour Lounge, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 200, is a funky place with a bizarre fish tank full of bricks behind the bar, where live DJs entertain Amsterdam’s party set before they move on the clubs. Just across the road, at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169, is the trendy NL Lounge, with its cutting-edge sounds, discerning crowd and nightmare bouncers – dress to impress. Chic new arrivals on the Amsterdam scene include Rain (see Clubs), Rembrandtplein 44, and Odeon (see Restaurants), Singel 460. The gay and lesbian scene thrives in Amsterdam, with Reguliersdwarsstraat one of the more cutting edge nightlife areas, with April, at Reguliersdwarsstraat 37, and Soho, Reguliersdwarsstraat 36, two of the most popular venues.

Casinos: Two places in which to win or lose money are Holland Casino Amsterdam, Max Euweplein 62, open daily 1330-0300 (last entry at 0200), and Holland Casino Schiphol Airport, in Terminal West at Schiphol Airport, open daily 0600-1930 (website: www.hollandcasino.com). Smart attire is requisite and only those over 18 years are admitted – passports are required.

Clubs: Old dames Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8, and Melkweg, Lijnbaansgracht 234 (website: www.melkweg.nl) seem like they have been around forever but are still going strong and are fun places for a party. They might not always get the big contemporary names anymore but they are both a good bet at weekends for an unpretentious and fun night out. Escape, Rembrandtplein 11, is a massive venue that can hold up to 2,000 revellers. Its Saturday ‘Chemistry’ night is a Dutch institution, attracting some big name international DJs, although the queues to get in can be a nightmare. A more intimate club venue is Sinners in Heaven, Wagenstraat 3-7, with a trendier and older crowd than many of the city’s larger, more mainstream clubs. Newcomer Panama, Oostelijke Handelskade 4, also caters for an older crowd in the up-and-coming Zeeburg warehouse district. New arrivals include Odeon (see Restaurants), Singel 460, and Rain, Rembrantplein 44, the latter a huge nightlife complex right at the heart of Rembrandtplein that is a hybrid bar/restaurant/nightclub, all the rage in Amsterdam at the moment. Worth battling past the scary-looking bouncers.

Live Music: Jazz has always been popular in Amsterdam. Many of the jazz greats have lived in the city, including Chet Baker, who died here. Head for Bourbon Street Jazz and Blues Club, Leidsekruisstraat 6-8, or the main jazz venue of Bimhuis, Oude Schans 73-77, in the historic centre, where the Dutch Jazz Orchestra (website: www.dutchjazz.nl) plays on Wednesday and musicians from all over Europe perform on the other days of the week. Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8, and Melkweg, Lijnbaansgracht 234 (website: www.melkweg.nl), both often have rock gigs and sets by alternative acts.

City Statistics

Location: Noord-Holland, The Netherlands.
Country dialling code: 31.
Population: 738,763 (city); 1,498,205 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 173 nationalities in The Netherlands, 96% Dutch, 4% other nationalities.
Religion: 38% Roman Catholic, 30% Protestant, 32% do not profess any religion.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT +2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC (moving at the rate of one volt per year towards the European standard of 230 volts), 50Hz; two-pin European-style plugs are in use.
Average January temp: 3°C (36°F).
Average July temp: 17°C (61°F).
Average annual rainfall: 804mm (31.5 inches).

Special Events

Remembrance Day, some 20,000 locals remember the war dead with the Dutch Royal Family, 4 Mar, Dam Square
National Museum Weekend, free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums, Apr, throughout the city
Queen’s Day, parades, fireworks and celebrations, 30 Apr, throughout the city
Liberation Day, celebrations to mark the end of German occupation in 1945, 5 May, throughout the city
KunstRAI, major arts event, May, Amsterdam RAI
National Biking Day, locals take to the streets on their bikes, 14 May, throughout the city
National Windmill Day, Amsterdam’s six working windmills open to the public, 11 May, various windmills
Floating Amsterdam, outdoor productions, last two weeks May, River Amstel
Holland Festival, music, dance and drama, Jun, various venues
Canal Run, race around the canals, Jun, Prinsengracht and Vijzelgracht canals
Over Het IJ, festival of experimental theatre, Jul, NDSM Shipyard, Neveritaweg (website: www.overhetij.nl)
Parade, circus and fair, first two weeks Aug, Martin Luther Kingpark
Grachtenfestival, over 70 classical concerts, Aug, various venues (website: www.grachtenfestival.nl)
Amsterdam Pride, gay festival with a canalside parade, Aug, various venues (website: www.amsterdampride.nl)
Amsterdam Marathon, Oct, around the city
Museumnacht, Nov, special presentations and performances in over 30 museums, which open their doors 1900-0200 that night, throughout the city (website: www.n8.nl)
Christmas Day, 25 Dec, throughout the city
New Year’s Eve, street party, 31 Dec, Dam Square

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬3
33cl bottle of beer: ¬1.50
Financial Times newspaper: ¬5
36-exposure colour film: ¬7.50
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.60
Adult football ticket: ¬25
Three-course meal with wine or beer: From ¬30

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005