World City Guide

Athens (Athina) is named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom, who, according to legend, won the city after defeating Poseidon in a duel. The goddess’ victory was celebrated by the construction of a temple on the Acropolis, the site of the city’s earliest settlement in Attica.

As a city state, the coastal capital of Athens reached its heyday in the fifth century BC. The office of the statesman, Pericles, between 461BC and his death in 429BC, saw an unprecedented spate of construction resulting in many of the great classical buildings (the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Hephaisteion and the temple at Sounion) now regarded as icons of ancient Greece. Physical evidence of the city’s success was matched by achievements in the intellectual arts. Democracy was born, drama flourished and Socrates conceived the foundations of Western philosophy. Remarkably, although the cultural legacy of this period has influenced Western civilisation ever since, the classical age in Athens only lasted for five decades. Under the Macedonians and Romans, the city retained a privileged cultural and political position but became a prestigious backwater of the Empire rather than a major player. The birth of Christianity heralded a long period of occupation and decline, culminating in 1456 and four centuries of Turkish domination, which has left an indelible cultural mark on the city. By the end of the 18th century, Athens was also suffering the indignity of having the artistic achievements of its classical past removed by looting collectors.

Modern Athens was born in 1834, when the city was restored as the capital of a newly independent Greece. Greek refugees flooded the city at the end of the Greek–Turkish war, swelling the population. After World War II, American money funded a massive expansion and industrialisation programme. The rapid growth of the post-war years and the high temperatures of its Mediterranean climate have created a city that can often be polluted and could be described as an urban sprawl. Excessive traffic creates a gridlock on the streets and noxious fumes (néfos) in the air, although great efforts are being made to reduce this. Visitors with visions of gleaming marble and philosophers in white robes are understandably perturbed that the architectural achievements of Athens’ classical past are surrounded by the unforgiving concrete of indiscriminate 20th-century urbanisation. Over three million visitors come to the city each year but the majority see the sights as quickly as possible (as if fulfilling some cultural duty) before heading off for the easy hedonism of the Greek islands.

However, Athens repays a closer acquaintance. In addition to the celebrated classical sites, the city boasts Byzantine, medieval and 19th-century monuments, as well as one of the best museums in the world and areas of surprising natural beauty. Despite the traffic, an appealing village-like quality becomes evident in the cafés, tavernas, markets and the maze of streets around the Pláka. Moreover, Athens has the finest restaurants and the most varied nightlife in the country and remains a major European centre of culture, celebrated each year at the Athens Festival. The metropolitan area, including the port at Piraeus, is the indisputable industrial and economic powerhouse of the country, while the return of the Olympic Games in 2004 is prompting a flurry of new development. Major projects include the new Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, the extension of the Athens metro system, the building of new sports venues, the upgrading of hotel accommodation and the revitalisation of the Piraeus port area. The world-renowned National Archaeological Museum, which was closed for renovation through 2003, is due to reopen for the Olympics, although the long-awaited New Acropolis Museum has fallen way behind schedule. In addition, ancient sites within the city centre are being linked by a traffic-free ‘archaeological promenade’ intended to enhance the urban environment for locals and visitors alike.

The return of the Olympic Games in 2004 prompted a flurry of development, including a new airport, the extension of the metro system, the building of new sports venues, the upgrading of hotels, the renovation of several top museums, and the formation of a traffic-free ‘archaeological promenade’.

Getting There By Air

Athens International Airport S.A. Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH)
Tel: 210 353 0000. Fax: 210 353 2284.
E-mail: airport_info@aia.gr
Website: www.aia.gr or www.athensairport-2001.gr (for information on arrival times)

Opened in 2001, Athens International Airport (Eleftherios Venizelos) is located 27km (17 miles) northeast of the city.

Approximate flight times to Athens: From London is 3 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 10 hours 10 minutes; from Los Angeles is 18 hours 35 minutes; from Toronto is 12 hours and from Sydney is 22 hours 5 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include banks, bureaux de change, duty-free shops, bars, restaurants, a post office, a GNTO tourist information office (tel: 210 353 0448; open Mon-Fri 0800-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-1600) and car hire companies Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt.

Transport to the city: The Athens Urban Transport Organisation (tel: 185) runs 24-hour express bus services linking the airport to the city (journey time – approximately 40 minutes, depending on traffic). Bus Line E94 runs to Ethniki Amyna metro station, Line E95 runs to Syntagma Square in the city centre and Line E96 runs to Pireaus Port. Tickets, which must be validated in the orange machines on the busses, cost ¬2.90 and allow for 24 hours of unlimited travel on all forms of public transport (bus, tram and metro). These are available for purchase from the bus driver.

In addition, metro Line 3 has been extended so that some, but not all, trains now run between Monastiraki in the city centre and the airport. Taxi services are also available – the cost is approximately ¬25 to the city centre or ¬30 to Pireaus Port.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Main roads are designated by blue signs. Traffic drives on the right. The maximum speed limit for cars is 120kph (70mph) on motorways, 110kph (60mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. It is illegal to carry spare petrol (benzina) in the vehicle. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn and children under 10 must sit in the back seat. Penalties for drinking and driving over the limit are severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%, above 0.08% is considered a criminal offence.

A national driving licence is acceptable for EU nationals but nationals of other countries may need an International Driving Permit. EU nationals in possession of a Green Card, which provides international third-party insurance, are permitted to import a foreign-registered car, caravan, motorcycle, boat or trailer for a maximum of six months (or up to 15 months for a fee). A Green Card is no longer a legal requirement in Greece for visits of less than three months, however, without it, insurance is limited to the minimum legal cover. Car registration documents must be carried at all times.

The Greek Automobile and Touring Club (ELPA) (tel: 210 606 8800; website: www.elpa.gr), provides members of associated national automobile clubs with 24-hour assistance on main roads.

Emergency breakdown services:
ELPA 10400 (toll free)

Routes to the city: The PATHE (Pátra, Athens and Thessaloníki) motorway runs from Pátra in the west via Athens to Thessaloníki and Tsoliades on the FYROM (Former-Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) border. To reach both Istanbul and Sofia, drivers must head north on the E75 to Thessaloníki. From there, Istanbul is east on the E90, crossing the border at Kipi, while Sofia lies northeast on the E79, crossing the border at Promahonas.

Driving times to Athens: From Thessaloníki – 6 hours 45 minutes; from Sofia – 11 hours 30 minutes; from Istanbul – 16 hours 45 minutes.

Coach services: There are two domestic long-distance bus terminals in Athens – terminal A, Kifissou 100, and terminal B, Liossion 260. Buses link Athens and all the main towns in Attica, northern Greece and the Peloponnese. Bus schedule information is available (tel: 210 512 4910; website: www.ktel.org).

Hellenic Railways Organisation – OSE, Karalou 1 (tel: 210 529 7777 (international services) or 1110 (information); website: www.ose.gr) runs regular international bus services to Albania, Turkey and Bulgaria, departing from Pelopónnisos train station, Dheliyáni (tel: 210 529 8739 (bus services)).
As of April 2005, Eurolines, London Victoria (tel: (020) 7730 8235; website: www.eurolines.com) operate a weekly service from London to various destinations in Greece, including the capital.

Getting There By Rail

The Greek railway service is run by Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE), Karolou 1 (tel: 1110 (information); website: www.ose.gr). Greek trains have first- and second-class accommodation and there are luxury sleeper trains on selected routes. However, the rail service is limited to the northern and eastern mainland and parts of the Peloponnese. Trains are cheaper than buses but generally much slower. Reservations are available for no extra charge and there is a 20% rebate on return fares. Touring cards, issued by OSE, entitle the holder to unlimited second-class travel at a reduced cost for 10, 20 or 30 days – there are further discounts for groups. The main railway stations in Athens are Larissis (tel: 210 529 8829) and Pelopónnisos (tel: 210 513 1601), both situated off Dheliyáni. Facilities at these stations are minimal, basically left-luggage and a couple of bars.

Rail services: The domestic railway network is limited to the mainland and is generally slower than travel by road. Destinations include Patra (journey time – 4 hours), Kalamata (journey time – 7 hours) and Argos (journey time – 3 hours). Trains to the Peloponnese depart from Pelopónnisos station. Trains for destinations in northern Greece, Evia and the rest of Europe depart from Larissis station. International train services require changing at Thessaloníki (journey time – 6 hours), from where the only direct services are to Bulgaria, FYROM (the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) and Turkey. A train to London, for example, requires a complicated series of changes and takes three and a half days.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Public transport in the city is run by the Athens Urban Transport Organisation (tel: 185; website: www.oasa.gr). The transport system, which was expanded for the Olympic Games, consists of buses, trolley buses, trams and a metro/electric train service.

Public transport is cheap and extensive but often overcrowded. Tickets are sold at bus terminals and some street kiosks (periptera) and must be validated in orange machines located on-board the buses or in the metro station. Failure to produce a validated ticket on request results in a heavy fine. Monthly passes for the entire urban network are available.

Blue-and-white buses run daily – there is also a limited night service on the major routes. The most visited parts of the city are served by several yellow trolley bus routes. In most cases, however, it is preferable to walk.

The original electric train/metro line (Line 1) runs north-south between the suburb of Kifissia and the Piraeus Port. The metro (website: www.ametro.gr) network was expanded for the 2004 Olympics. Line 2 runs from Agios Antonios to Agios Dimitrios, with its new Acropolis station just a 10-minute below the upper city, while Line 3 now runs from Monastiraki all the way to Eleftherios Venizelos airport.

In addition, three tram lines now link the city centre and the coast: one runs from Syntagma to Neo Faliro; one from Syntagma to Glyfada; and the third between Neo Faliro and Glyfada.

Taxis
A number of companies operate radio cabs in Athens, which can be reserved over the telephone. Reputable companies include Athina 1 (tel: 210 921 7942), Ermis (tel: 210 411 5200), Hellas (tel: 210 645 7000) and Ikaros (tel: 210 515 2800).

Official yellow taxis with red-on-white number plates can also be hailed on the street. When taxis are in heavy demand, it is not unusual to share the ride (but not the fare) with other passengers. Tipping is not customary, although taxi drivers may expect to ‘keep the change’ when handed a note. Taxis in Athens are probably cheaper than in any other European capital but unscrupulous drivers may occasionally try to overcharge naïve tourists, so it is wise for travellers to ensure that the meter is switched on and functioning before departure. Extra charges for baggage, trips to the airport and late-night journeys are explained in English on charts inside the taxis.

Driving in the City
Despite the government’s efforts, the centre of Athens still has a traffic and pollution problem. The traffic-reduction scheme limits the number of motor vehicles from the commercial centre of Athens: cars with registration plates ending in an odd number are allowed in on odd numbered days of the month, while those ending in even numbers are allowed in only on even numbered days. This scheme applies from Monday mornings to Friday afternoons, and cars with foreign number plates are exempt.

Parking is extremely difficult in central Athens, as it is restricted in many streets. Vehicles contravening these regulations may be towed away. Luxury hotels have their own garages, otherwise drivers can try the central but very crowded car park at Kathmonos Square (a 10-minute walk from Syntagma Square). The main parking lot on the outskirts of the city centre is at the new Olympic Stadium, at Irini. From here it is a 25-minute metro ride into the centre.

For all these reasons, a car is more of a problem than an asset in Athens, although visitors may wish to rent a car for a trip out of the city.

Car Hire
Regulations vary from company to company, however, in all cases drivers require a valid driving licence. A national driving licence is sufficient for nationals of EU states. Other nationalities should obtain an International Driving Permit. The minimum age for hiring a car ranges from 21 to 25 years.

Most car hire firms have offices in Athens and at the airport. Major providers include Avis (tel: 210 322 4951; website: www.avis.gr), Budget (tel: 210 921 4771; website: www.budget.gr), Europcar (tel: 210 924 8810; website: www.europcar.com) and Hertz (tel: 210 922 0102; website: www.hertz.gr).

Scooter & Bicycle Hire
Scooters are a popular means of transport in Athens although riding a bicycle cannot be advised.

Rent Moto, Robertou Gali 1, Makrigiani (tel: 210 923 4939; website: www.motorent.gr), hires out scooters and bicycles. They have a second office in Piraeus.

Business

Business Etiquette
The working day in Athens is fairly flexible. In general, offices are open 0830–1630, although shops and banks may have different hours – smaller organisations still close for a siesta in the afternoon during summer. Punctuality is expected for meetings, although a Greek host may keep a business visitor waiting for a short time. It is usual to shake hands to greet a business contact but embracing and kissing colleagues is not uncommon, although not upon first acquaintance. Business cards are exchanged after introductions have been made. Business attire is relatively formal – men are expected to wear suits and ties and women should wear suits. More casual wear is sometimes acceptable during the summer but local businesspeople tend to dress conservatively.

Hospitality is an important part of Greek culture and visiting businesspeople may well be taken to lunch. Greeks do not drink excessively but they will appreciate it if foreigners show enthusiasm to sample Greek wines and spirits. Almost everyone smokes, so visitors should not be surprised by endless offers of cigarettes. Gifts from abroad are well received but not expected, unless a visitor is invited to a colleague’s home, in which case a gift of wine, sweets or flowers is usual.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Modern Athens is divided into districts but Plateía Síndagmatos (Syntagma or Constitution Square) is the epicentre of the city – almost everything worth seeing in Athens is within half an hour’s walk of here. Other useful landmarks are the unavoidable Akrópoli (Acropolis) and Lykavittós Hill. The Pláka covers the area below the Acropolis, to the east of the Agorá. Despite being heavily commercialised, this is the most pleasant part of the city to explore on foot. Narrow winding streets are lined with 19th-century buildings, souvenir shops and bustling tavernas. In particular, Anafiótika (at the base of the Acropolis) is a delightful area that recreates the style and atmosphere of a Greek village. The area was settled by workers from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to build a palace for King Otto. In addition to simply wandering the streets or watching the world go by over a lengthy coffee, the highlights of the Pláka include several specialist museums. On the edge of this district, the Monastíraki bazaar is a grimy, bustling slice of authentic Athenian life, with neighbouring Psirri the currently fashionable area for bars, restaurants and nightlife. At the other end of the scale, the Kolonáki district on the edge of Lykavittós is wealthy and fashionable, providing a welcome retreat from the harder edges of the city. The tourist season lasts from April to October and is at its peak in August, when the city is crowded and often horribly hot. The Ministry of Culture’s website provides information for visitors about the main monuments in Athens (website: www.culture.gr).

Tourist Information
In 2004, the Greek National Tourism Organisation (GNTO) opened a new walk-in visitor’s centre at Amalias 26, close to Syntagma (tel: 210 331 0392).
Opening times: (Winter) Mon-Fri 0900-1900; Sat-Sun 1000-1600. Summer: extended hours (to be confirmed).

Head Office
Tsocha 7, Ampelokipoi
Tel: 210 870 7000.
E-mail: info@gnto.gr
Website: www.gnto.gr

Passes
It is possible to buy a block ticket for the ‘Archaeological Sites of Athens’. The ticket is valid for four days, costs ¬12 and can be bought at any of the participating sites. These include the Acropolis, the Theatre of Dionysus, the Agorá, Kerameikós, the Roman Forum and the Temple of Olympian Zeus.

Key Attractions

Akrópoli (Acropolis)
The Acropolis (upper city) dominates both the city’s skyline and any tourist’s itinerary. The name refers to the rocky outcrop that formed the site of the original settlement in Athens. Foundations for a temple dedicated to Athena were laid in 490BC, however, work did not begin in earnest until the Golden Age of Pericles (461-429BC). The Acropolis site includes the Acropolis Museum and four sacred buildings, all from the fifth century BC. The steep ascent to the summit leads to the Propylaea, a monumental gateway in the Ionic and Doric styles, which serves as the entrance to the site. The Temple of Athena Nike is to the left of the Propylaea – the original was destroyed by Turkish forces in the 17th century but has been beautifully restored. The Parthenon is the largest building on the Acropolis and an icon of Western civilisation. Built entirely from marble, the Parthenon was intended as a sanctuary for Athena and housed a statue (no longer in existence) of the goddess. Despite the tourists, the perfect harmony of the structure is still awe-inspiring. The Erechtheion temple is a dual shrine to Athena and Poseidon-Erechtheus and was built on the site of the mythical battle between the two deities. The south side features a series of six support columns designed as maidens or caryatids. Due to severe environmental damage, the caryatids have been replaced by models.

Acropolis Hill, centre of Athens
Tel: 210 321 0219.
Website: www.culture.gr
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0830-1500 (winter).
Admission charge.

Mouseío Akrópolis (Acropolis Museum)
Many of the treasures from the Acropolis can be found in the Acropolis Museum, in the southeast corner of the complex. Nine rooms house objects from the four buildings, including five original caryatids. Building work is underway on the New Acropolis Museum, which will be located at the foot of the Acropolis Hill. An all-glass structure designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi, the museum will be a new home for statues and artefacts from the Acropolis and hopefully persuade the British Museum in London to return the controversial Parthenon Marbles, seized by Lord Elgin in 1799. However, the new museum looks unlikely to be completed until 2007.

Acropolis Hill, centre of Athens
Tel: 210 323 6665 (museum).
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); Tue-Sun 0830-1500, Mon 1100-1700 (winter).
Admission charge.

Théatro Dionysou (Theatre of Dionysus)
On the southern slopes of the Acropolis Hill, the Théatro Dionysou was home to the original performances of the tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripedes and the comedies of Aristophanes. This stone auditorium, from the fourth century BC, held 17,000 spectators and the ruins remain one of the most atmospheric of Athens’ ancient sites.

D Areopagitou, Plaka
Tel: 210 322 4625.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0830-1500 (winter).
Admission charge.

Agorá (Market)
Although the site is now a jumble of monuments and ruins from different periods, in Athens’ heyday the Agorá was the focus of city life, serving not only as a place of trade but also as the city’s political, administrative and cultural heart. Law courts, temples and public offices were all based in this area, where ordinary Athenians, stall holders and merchants mingled with officials, politicians and philosophers. The site is dominated by the Hephaisteion (Temple of Haephaistos), from the fifth century BC, one of the best-preserved ancient temples in Greece.

The fascinating Museo tis Agoras (Museum of Agorá) contains an eccentric array of everyday artefacts found in the area. It is housed in the Stoa Attalou (Stoa of Attalos). This two-storey structure from the second century BC was restored by the American School of Archaeology and is thought to have been an early shopping arcade containing 42 separate shops.

Adrianou 24, Monastiráki
Tel: 210 331 0963.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0800-1500 (winter).
Admission charge.

Ethnikó Archaiologikó Mouseio (National Archaeological Museum)
Following extensive renovation, this world-famous museum reopened in summer 2004. Housed in a late 19th-century building, it is undoubtedly the best museum in Greece with one of the finest collections of ancient and classical Greek artefacts. Fascinating pieces include the Mycenaen Collection featuring hordes of finely crafted gold work dating from between the 16th and 11th centuries BC, and the Bronze Collection, including an imposing larger-than-life bronze statue of Poseidon from 460BC. Refreshments are available in the museum café overlooking the internal sculpture garden.

Patission 44, Omonia
Tel: 210 821 7717.
Website: www.culture.gr
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); Mon 1030-1700, Tues-Sun 0830-1500 (winter).
Admission charge.

Vizantino Mouseio (Byzantine Museum)
Housed in the grounds of a delightful neo-classical villa, this museum reopened in summer 2004 after total renovation. The new open-plan exhibition space lies below the central courtyard, with exhibits presented in chronological order, tracing the development of the Byzantine Empire. Besides boasting one of the richest collections of icons in the world, the museum exhibits mosaics, frescoes, sculptural works and jewellery from the area that is now Greece, as well as from other regions of the former Byzantine Empire.

Vassilissis Sofias 22, Kolonáki
Tel: 210 723 2178.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1500.
Admission charge.

Mouseío Ellinikis Laikis Technis (Museum of Greek Folk Art)
Lying on the edge of Pláka, this museum displays a vast and colourful collection of folk art that dates from 1650 onwards. Works are divided into specific sections devoted to costumes, embroidery, weaving, gold and silver jewellery, woodwork, weaponry, Greek shadow theatre and hand-painted ceramics. The highlights are the traditional costumes, set off against suggestive reconstructions of houses relating to their specific regions. Another highlight is the Theofilis Room, the reconstruction of a house on the island of Lesvos, which was frescoed by Theofilis Hadjimichael (1868-1934).

Kidathineon 17, Pláka
Tel: 210 321 3018.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1400.
Admission charge.

Mouseío Ellinikón Mousikon Orgánon (Museum of Greek Musical Instruments)
Housed in a renovated 19th-century mansion in the heart of Pláka, the Mouseío Ellinikón Mousikon Orgánon displays a collection accumulated by the musicologist, Fivos Anoyanakis. This museum is great fun – each display case is accompanied by a headset, so that visitors can listen to the sound of the instruments. Films in the entrance feature their construction and performance. Information is provided in English.

Diogenous 1-3, Pláka
Tel: 210 362 9513.
Opening hours: Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1400, Wed 1200-1800.
Free admission.

Mouseío Kykladikís kai Archaías Ellinikís Téchnis (Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art)
The museum houses the private collection of Nikolas P Goulandris. Beautiful exhibits from the Cycladic civilisation (3000-2000BC) form the focus of the collection but other artefacts cover the pre-Minoan Bronze Age and the post-Mycenaen age up to 700BC, and a new collection of Ancient Cypriot Art was added in 2004. The museum shop offers an excellent selection of quality reproduction pieces, while the light and airy atrium café is a good place for coffee or a light lunch.

Neofítou Dhouká 4, Kolonáki
Tel: 210 722 8321.
Website: www.cycladic.gr
Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Fri 1000-1600, Sat 1000-1500.
Admission charge.

Panathinaiko Stádio (Panathenaic Stadium)
The elegant three-sided stone stadium was built in 1896, for the first of the modern-day Olympic Games. The design by Ernst Ziller was based on the plan of a fourth-century-BC stadium that originally stood on the site. During the 2004 Olympic Games, this stadium hosted the fencing contests and the marathon ended here. It should not be confused with the modern Olympic Stadium in the north of the city that formed the centre stage of the 2004 Olympics.

Leoforos Ardhittou
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Free admission.

Olympieion (Temple of Olympian Zeus)
Lying close to the National Gardens and Pláka, this was one of largest temples in the ancient world, being dedicated to the god of all gods, Zeus. Building work began in 515BC, but was only completed some 700 years later in AD131 under the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Today, 16 of the original 104 marble columns, which are 17m (56ft) high, survive. On the edge of the site stands the triumphal arch named Hadrian’s Arch.

Leoforos Vas. Olgas and Amalias
Tel: 210 922 6330.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0800-1500 (winter).
Admission charge.

Mouseio Benaki (Benaki Museum)
The museum houses the private collection of Antonios Benakis (1873-1954), the son of a wealthy Greek from Alexandria, Egypt. Displayed in a neo-classical mansion, the collection traces the development of Greek art, from the Stone Age up to the 20th century, with jewellery, ceramics, painting, sculpture, furniture and costumes laid out in chronological order. There is a roof top terrace café and a museum shop selling reproductions of the exhibits on display.

Vassilissis Sofias & Koumbari 1, Kolonaki
Tel: 210 367 1000.
Website: www.benaki.gr
Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 0900-1700; Thu 0900-2400; Sun 0900-1500.
Admission charge (free Thu).

Further Distractions

Green Spaces
The Ethnikós Kipos (National Gardens) are a welcome green haven in the centre of the city. The gardens have peacocks and a small botanical museum. Another calm spot is the Kerameikós Cemetery (currently closed for refurbishment although due to reopen in April 2004), named after the patron saint of potters and ceramics and dating from the 12th century BC. Tombstones range from the grand to the poignantly simple. There is also a small museum on site, which houses the originals of some of the more valuable tombstones that have been replaced with replicas in the actual cemetery.

Ethnikós Kipos Amalias, Syntagma
Tel: 210 721 1178.

Kerameikós Cemetery and Museum
Ermou 148, Kerameikós
Tel: 210 346 3552.

Mikrí Mitrópoli (Little Mitrópolis)
Although Megáli Mitrópoli (Great Mitrópolis), which serves as Athens’ cathedral, dominates the square of the same name, visitors may well prefer Mikrí Mitrópoli (Little Mitrópolis), an exquisite 12th-century church with a mystical atmosphere and charming name – Panaghía Gorgoepiíkoös (the Madonna who swiftly hears).

Mitropoleos Square, Pláka
Tel: 210 322 1308.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Athens is well suited to walking, as most of the sights are centrally located. The ‘Unification of Archaeological Sites’ now links the city’s ancient sites by a 4km (2.5-mile) traffic-free promenade: Dionissiou Areopagitou leads from the Acropolis metro station along the south side of the Acropolis to join Apostolou Pavlou which brings one to Thissio metro station. From here Adrianou runs east to Monastiraki, while Ermou runs west to Keramikos.

For private guided tours, visitors are advised to contact the Association of Tourist Guides of Athens, Apollonas 9A (tel: 210 322 0090), which provides guides for individual and group tours and supplies licensed guides to the travel agencies.

It is often more satisfactory to go it alone, armed with a map and a guidebook. Syntagma Square makes a logical starting point. From here, walkers can either advance up Vassilissis Sofias and then left through the well-to-do district around Kolonáki Square and on to Lykavittós Hill, or go south along Amalias past the National Gardens, turning right towards the Pláka and the Acropolis. Another route to the Acropolis might start at the bazaar on Monastiráki Square, leading uphill past the Agorá. A wander around the Pláka, using the main thoroughfares of Adrianou and Kidhathinaion for orientation, is equally rewarding.

Bus Tours
Numerous companies and travel agencies offer tailor-made tours for groups, whether walking or bus or a combination. For example, Fantasy Travel (tel: 210 331 0530; website: www.fantasy.gr) offer a condensed half-day ‘Athens Sightseeing Tour’, which is a bus tour with various stops for walking about, including the Parliament building on Syntagma Square, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Temple of Poseidon: Built in 444BC, the Temple of Poseidon (tel: 229 203 9363) stands on the tip of Cape Sounion, overlooking the Aegean Sea, and is a spectacular sight, particularly when there is a good sunset. The coastal road from Athens offers a dramatic route to the ruins – by car or bus. From the city centre, the regular local bus departs from Mavromateon, a side street next to the National Archaeological Museum.

For a Whole Day

Delphi: Pilgrims visited Delphi until the fourth century AD, to seek advice from its famous oracles. Situated on dramatic cliffs to the west of Athens, the site includes the Temple of Apollo, the Sacred Way, a vast amphitheatre, a stadium and an excellent museum (tel: 226 508 2312). Regular buses make the three-hour journey from terminal B at Liossion 260 in Athens.

Argo-Saronic Islands: For those short of time, an organised tour group is a good idea. Epirotiki Tours (tel: 210 429 1501; website: www.epirotiki.gr) run a one-day cruise around the islands of Aegina, Poros and Hydra, with a short stop at each.

Peloponnese: It is possible to take trips from Athens to the major classical sites in the Peloponnese, including Corinth, Epidaurus and Mycenae. Although the modern town of Kórinthos (Corinth) is fairly unpleasant, the surrounding attractions include Ancient Corinth (the Roman capital of Greece) the acropolis of Acrocorinth and the Corinth Canal.

The vast fourth century BC theatre at Epidaurus enjoys a spectacular setting, pin-drop acoustics and is remarkably well preserved. It is used for the Epidaurus Festival in July and August (website: www.greekfestival.gr). The site (tel: 275 302 2009) includes the ruins of an extensive spa and sanctuary, as well as a museum. Regular buses make the journey from terminal A, Kifissou 100, in Athens.

Although research suggests Mykínes (Mycenae) was probably not the home of Agamemnon, as some claimed, the site (tel: 275 107 6585) is undeniably impressive and remains one of the most popular in Greece. Highlights include the Lion Gate, the Royal Cemetery and the Treasury of Atreus. Mycenae can be reached on the Náfplio bus from terminal A, Kifissou 100.

Outdoors: There are reasonable beaches south of Athens at Glyfada, Vouliagméni and Varkiza. Bus E22 from Akadimias goes to all three places. Alternatively, the mountains that surround the city offer excellent opportunities for walking and hiking. Mount Párnitha, an hour’s drive north of the city, is easily accessible and has well-marked paths.

Sport

Shopping

Athens’ busiest shopping street is the pedestrian-only Ermou, off Syntagma Square, where shoppers can pick up the season's latest souvenirs, clothing and accessories. The most upmarket shopping district in Athens is nearby Kolonáki, where designer boutiques (such as the Italian Versace and the newest Greek talent Eleftheriades) rub shoulders with coffee shops and chic restaurants. This area includes Tsakalof, one of the most expensive streets in the world. Thankfully, Athens has not adopted mall culture and no massive retail emporiums taint the city's shopping scene.

The city's best bookshop is the vast seven-storey Eleftheroudakis on Panepistimiou, which stocks an excellent selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction and travel guides.

There is a long tradition of silver and gold craftsmanship in Athens and jewellery made here can be of a particularly high quality. Jewellers are concentrated in chic Kolonáki, with the expensive international outlets, such as Bulgari, lining Voukourestiou, while up-and-coming Greek designers, such as Elena Votsi, have shops in the surrounding side streets.

Other good-value items include spirits, ceramics and leather goods. Typical Greek gifts include hand-woven rugs, known as flokati, copper coffee pots, virgin olive oil and honey, all of which can be found in the souvenir shops in Pláka. In Athens, there is a big market in reproductions of museum pieces and religious icons – the best places for visitors to buy these are at the shops in the museums themselves.

In the Monastiráki area, on the edge of Pláka, shops sell everything from combat army boots and second-hand books to fake designer sunglasses and ancient coins. Shops open out directly onto the street, bazaar style, while Sundays bring the Monastiráki Flea Market, 0800–1400, where goods range from carefully restored antique furniture to rather dubious bric-a-brac. Kentrikí Agorá (Central Market) is housed in a huge 19th-century metal structure near Omonia Square and is open early morning to early evening, often taking a break for siesta during summer, selling fresh fish, meat and fresh produce. Smaller markets radiate out from the central building. Household items, fresh fruit and vegetables are sold weekly in Laiki (People’s Markets) all over Athens.

Shops generally open Monday and Wednesday 0900-1430, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 0900-1330 and 1730-2030 and Saturday 0900-1500. Small, family-run shops may stay open as late as 2200, for the sale of food, drinks and newspapers. Bargains can be snapped up at the sales in August and February. Haggling is standard practice in the tourist areas of Athens and is essential in order to avoid paying extortionate prices.

Visitors from outside the European Union who have been in Greece for less than three months can claim back VAT of up to 18% on purchases over ¬120. A ‘tax-free cheque’ will be issued in the shop to be presented along with the receipt to customs when leaving the county. Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide more information.

Culture

Athens probably has the most long-standing and impressive cultural heritage of any city in Europe. However, this pedigree is not confined to past greatness – a continued enthusiasm for the arts is expressed annually at the Athens Festival. In 1985, Athens became the first European City of Culture. The idea to showcase the cultural achievements of cities around the continent was conceived by Melina Mercouri, a Greek actress turned politician.

The Ministry of Culture's website (www.cultureguide.gr) has full listings for forthcoming cultural events throughout Greece (predominantly in Athens).

During the summer, tickets for all performances included within the Athens Festival and the Athens International Jazz and Blues Festival are sold at the Hellenic Festival Box Office, Panepistimiou 39 (tel: 210 322 1459; website: www.greekfestival.gr), which is open Monday to Friday 0830-1600 and Saturday 0900-1400. Tickets to other cultural events are available for purchase direct from the venue box offices.

Music: Many tavernas, particularly in the Pláka, put on music and dance shows for tourists at night. However, more authentic Greek music in Athens is rembétika (a kind of Greek blues, developed by refugees from Asia Minor in the 1920s; see Live Music in Nightlife).

The city’s major orchestra is Athens State Orchestra, who hold many of their performances at the Mégaron Mousikis Athenon (Athens Concert Hall), Leofóros Vassilissis Sofías (tel: 210 728 2333; website: www.megaron.gr). This modern venue hosts ballet, opera and classical music events, as well as conferences and exhibitions. The Greek National Opera (website: www.nationalopera.gr) is based at the Olympia Theatre, Akadimias 59-61 (tel: 210 361 2461), which also hosts operas and musical events performed by touring companies and musicians.

Theatre: The tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripedes, and the comedies of Aristophanes represent the highpoints of ancient Greek theatre and heralded the birth of Western drama. The original performances were held in the Théatro Dionysou (Theatre of Dionysos), on the southern slopes of the Acropolis (see Key Attractions). Nearby, the Odion Iródou Attikou (Odeon of Herod Atticus) is a Roman theatre from the second century AD, also known as the Herodeion (tel: 210 722 7209 or call Hellenic Festival Box Office, see above). The auditorium is usually only open on summer evenings for the Athens Festival, when it provides an impressive setting for performances of music and classical drama. The outdoor Lykavittós theatre, on Lykavittós Hill (tel: 210 722 7209), hosts a range of plays and concerts throughout the summer.

The National Theatre of Greece (tel: 210 528 8100; website: www.n-t.gr) encompasses five theatre groups, which are based at Agiou Konstantinou 24-26 and Panepistimiou 48.

Dance: The Dora Stratou Dance Theatre (tel: 210 324 4395; website: www.grdance.org) was founded 35 years ago by a dancer and devotee of Greek folk culture. Each evening May to September, the troupe, dressed in traditional costume, puts on a show of exuberant Greek song and dance at an open-air theatre on Filopáppou (Philopapps Hill), opposite the Acropolis. The National Ballet Company also perform in the Olympia Theatre (see Music above).

Film: Athens may not be Hollywood but, with well over 100 traditional and modern cinemas throughout the city, the Greek capital is an excellent place to see a film. Many are closed in summer when dozens of open-air screens take over to create impromptu cinemas, such as Cine Paris, Kidathinaion 22, Plaka (tel: 210 324 8057); Cine Psirri, Sari 40, Psirri (tel: 210 324 7234); and Thission, Apostolou Paylou 7, Thissio (tel: 210 347 0980 or 342 0864). Asty, Korai 4, off Panepistimou (tel: 210 321 4998) shows arthouse movies. Films are shown in the original language.

One of the most respected Greek film directors is Theo Angelopoulos whose credits include the 1995 film To Vlemma tou Odyssea (Ulysses’ Gaze), starring Harvey Keitel. His 1998 film, Mia Aioniotita ke Mia Mera (Eternity and a Day), won the Palme D’Or at the 51st Cannes Film Festival. Another directors to watch out for is Michael Cacoyannis – director of Zorba the Greek (1962). However, for many people the all-time classic remains Never on Sunday (1960), filmed in the Piraeus Port area, directed by Jules Dassin and starring Melina Mercouri as a prostitute with a heart of gold.

Literary Notes: This classical city is most closely revisited through the classical authors. Of particular interest are The Histories (fifth century BC) by Herodotus, The Rise and Fall of Athens (first century) by Plutarch, and History of the Peloponnesian War (fifth century BC) by Thucydides.
The Greek myths provide an essential background to the achievements of Classical Athens – the most celebrated sources being the Iliad and the Odyssey (ninth century BC) by Homer, as well as works by Hesiod. Classical drama is at its best on stage but is also available to read in translation. Some of the most important works include the tragedies: Prometheus Bound and the Oresteia (fifth century BC) trilogy by Aeschylus, Antigone, Oedipus Rex and Electra (fifth century BC) by Sophocles, Trojan Women and Iphigeneia in Taurus (fifth century BC) by Euripedes; and the comedies: The Frogs and The Birds (fifth century BC) by Aristophanes.

More recent accounts of the city include The Longest Night – Chronicles of a Dead City (1985), a collection of stories by Petros Haris evoking the atmosphere in Athens during World War II. The Nobel Prize winner Odysseus Elytis died in Athens in 1996. His poems can be read in English in The Collected Poems of Odysseus Elytis. Dinner with Persephone (1997) by the American poet Patricia Storace is an amusing glimpse of life in modern day Athens.

Nightlife

Athens has a lively nightlife scene that takes place in the streets as well as in the hundreds of bars, tavernas and clubs throughout the city. Bars open until around 0400 and nightclubs until 0400 or 0600. The legal drinking age in bars and clubs is 18 years. Prices vary although punters can expect to pay around ¬6 for a beer or ¬8 for a whisky. Admission prices vary dramatically from place to place, often increasing at the weekend. Greeks tend to dress informally but stylishly for a night out.

Winter is the best time to enjoy the full range of after-dark entertainment, as many establishments move to the coast during the summer. For an authentic Athenian evening, find a bar or club offering bouzouki or rembétika music. Alternatively, numerous nightclubs and bars cater for international tastes. These are to be found mainly in the Syntagma, Thissio, Psirri and Kolonáki areas of central Athens, as well as in the suburbs, such as Kifissia, Glyfada, Vouliagméni, Voula and Varkiza.

Kathimerini (website: www.ekathimerini), an English-language insert available with the Herald Tribune, provides information on what’s on in Athens.

Bars: The most ‘happening’ area of town is Psirri, with its once down-at-heel workshops now being renovated to create trendy bars and restaurants. Here, Soul, Evripidou 65, tops the league in terms of atmosphere, with a cocktail bar, lounge and restaurant in a stunning courtyard with deep red walls and lush planting, plus a dance floor upstairs. A five-minute walk away, Bee, on the corner of Miaouli and Themidos, still in Psirri, also combines drinking, dining and music, pulling in a mixed gay crowd.

To rub shoulders with the Athenian elite, try the upmarket area of Kolonaki. Business visitors favour Central, Platia Kolonki 14 (see Restaurants), while those in search of something more colourful should check out Mommy, Delphon 4, a glamorous bar-restaurant with 70s décor and a young, rich, trendy clientele.

For a drink under the stars with an Acropolis view, try the open-air cafes lining Apostolou Pavlou in Thissio and Adrianou near Monastiraki.

Casinos: An hour’s drive west of Athens, in Loutraki, lies Loutraki Casino, Posseido 48, Loutraki (website: www.clubhotelloutraki.gr), a glittering modern establishment that claims to be one of the largest casinos in Europe. In contrast, on Mount Párnitha, the Parnes Casino operates in old-fashioned style from the Mont Parnes Hotel, 2 Karageorgi Servias (tel: 210 242 1234). A mountain cable car carries visitors up to the hotel, day and night. Evening dress and a valid passport are required for both establishments.

Clubs: The city’s most exclusive nightclub, frequented by rich and glamorous under-40s, is Privilege at Deligianni 50 and Georganta in Kifissia, a smart suburb north of the city centre. Its former premises, in Psirri, are now occupied by the other big Athenian club, Venue (website: www.venue-athens.com) at Ag Eleoussis and Kakourgodikiou, close to Monastiráki metro station. During summer, most of the big clubs, including these two, move out to the beach.

Live Music: For the best jazz in town, visit Halfnote Jazz Club, Trivonianou 17, Mets. Rock music enthusiasts might prefer the more informal Rodon, Marni 24, Omonia, staging live concerts. Many of Greece’s top bouzouki stars play at Diogenis Studio, Singrou 259, Nea Smirni. To hear authentic rembétika (blues sung by immigrants from Asia Minor who came to Greece in 1920s), try the notorious Stoa Athanaton in the arcade inside the Central Market.

City Statistics

Location: Attica, Greece.
Country dialling code: 30. The old Athens code of ‘010’ has been replaced with ‘210’, however, ‘210’ must be dialled even within Athens. All numbers throughout the country now have ten digits, which must all be dialled.
Population: 3,192,606 (metropolitan area, 2001 census).
Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 9.5°C (49°F).
Average July temp: 27.5°C (81.5°F).
Annual rainfall: 376mm (14.5 inches).

Special Events

The Feast of St Basil, church services, 1 Jan, churches throughout the city
Carnival, festivities and celebration, week before Orthodox Lent, Feb-Mar, throughout the city
Independence Day, 25 Mar, Syntagma Square and throughout the city
Labour Day, parades, 1 May, various venues
Athens International Jazz and Blues Festival, Jun, Lykavittós Theatre
Rally Acropolis, Jun, Acropolis (website: www.acropolisrally.gr)
Athens Festival, Jun-Sep (website: www.greekfestival.gr), Herod Atticus Theatre and Lykavittós Theatre in the city centre, Veakio Amphiteheatre in Piraeus and the Epidaurus Amphitheatre
International Sailing Regatta, Jul, Athens coast
Rockwave Festival, one of the biggest rock festivals in Europe, late Jun, Athens coast
Daphne Wine Festival, Jul-Aug, Daphne
Athens Marathon, early Nov, from Marathon to the Panathenaic Stadium (website: www.athensmarathon.com)
Óchi Day (Patriotic Day), parades, 28 Oct, Syntagma Square and throughout the city

Cost of Living

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005