World City Guide

Mini Guide of Auckland

City Overview

The old joke is that visitors to New Zealand will find some idyllic recreation of 1950’s middle England, a place where people leave their doors unlocked, bake apple pies every Sunday and all the women-folk wear aprons. Even though the rather twee hand-made airport perpetuates this notion, get ready to be slapped in the face by the bold, 21st century girl that is Auckland. The city teems with life, from the vibrant waterfront life (not for nothing is it called the ‘City of Sails’) through the busy, ever-expanding Downtown district to the highly individual suburbs and glorious beaches. Auckland may not be New Zealand’s capital (a distinction going to Wellington) but it’ll do. It’s New Zealand’s largest city and, along with Christchurch on the South Island, the major gateway to the joys of this most diverse and beautiful country.

Just over 300km (190 miles) from the northern tip of the North Island, Auckland bestrides a narrow isthmus, the city’s districts weaving their way around bays and harbours, large and small. Around the city are numerous rugged hills, reminders of the eruptions of the 48 volcanoes that created the isthmus some 50,000 years ago. The earth’s crust is very thin between Waitemata and Manukau harbours and fissures in the surface burst forth with magma every few thousand years, to create more volcanoes – the last some six hundred years ago, which formed Rangitoto Island, much to the consternation of the Maori settled on neighbouring Motutapu Island.

Current thinking has it that over 1,000 years ago, the first of many waves of Polynesian migrants arrived in New Zealand in double-hulled canoes, to begin hunting and limited cultivation on the fertile volcanic land. Highly defensible and numerous, the volcano-top sites covered by rich soil made wonderful settlements, which consequently flourished. However, after the arrival of Europeans in the 1820s, the introduction of the gun (which led to a massive increase in inter-tribal warfare) and European-carried disease, the Maori population was decimated. In 1840, the British bought land in the area from the local Maori tribe, for £55 and some blankets. Auckland was made the capital city of New Zealand, which it remained until 1865, when Wellington took over.

As well as the harbours and fertile land, the city’s maritime climate is appealing. Its situation by the sea means that it never gets too hot in summer or too cold in winter. There may be occasional frosts during wintertime (June to August) but seldom anything too severe, while summer temperatures usually stay in the mid-20s Celsius (upper-70s Fahrenheit), although it can become quite humid. Such a climate naturally leads to a healthy (and hedonistic) outdoor lifestyle. Although exact figures vary, it is said that there are more boats per capita here than in any other city in the world. There are over 500km (310 miles) of walking trails within Greater Auckland, as well as 22 leafy parks. But when the city palls, its inhabitants escape to the offshore Hauraki Gulf Islands, the Coromandel Peninsula or up the coast to another of the country’s seaside beauty spots, the Bay of Islands.

Boats to the islands leave the ferry terminal, a part of Auckland’s regenerated waterfront that was upgraded and revitalized for the 2000 Americas Cup challenge and the inglorious 2003 failure to retain the Louis Vuitton trophy. A little east is Queen Elizabeth II Square, and running south of the Square is Queen Street; the city’s main thoroughfare, on which stands the impressive Auckland Town Hall. Queen Street eventually reaches Karangahape Road, which everyone calls K Road. Between K Road and the waterfront, is the heart of Auckland City. To the southeast is the sophisticated Parnell district, with the Auckland Museum and Auckland Domain Park, while northwest of the centre is Herne Bay and Ponsonby – full of hip and happening bars and cafés.

Support for the aforementioned hedonistic outdoor lifestyle is provided by a prosperous economy, with tourism one of this country’s biggest and fastest expanding earners – particularly since the film release of, and positive response to, the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Filmed in New Zealand, the movies created an advantageous knock-on effect for the city’s business and finance sectors, making Auckland a city in bloom, if not entirely booming.

Getting There By Air

Auckland International Airport (AKL)
Tel: (09) 275 0789 or 256 8855. Fax: (09) 275 5835.
E-mail: admin@akl-airport.co.nz
Website: www.auckland-airport.co.nz

Auckland International Airport is located 21km (14 miles) south of central Auckland, in the suburb of Mangere. It is one of the two main international gateways to New Zealand – the other being Christchurch, on the South Island. The airport handles, on average, more than 23,000 passengers per day, travelling on 81 international and 324 domestic flights. There are direct flights to several countries including Australia, Canada, Great Britain, Japan, Singapore, Thailand and the USA, as well as a few other countries in Europe. There is one international terminal and are two domestic terminals. The terminals are linked by a free shuttle bus service. There is also a marked footpath between the terminals.

Major airlines: Air New Zealand (tel: (09) 336 2400; website: www.airnewzealand.com) is the national airline. Other major carriers include Aerolinas Argentinas, Air Canada, British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Garuda, Japan Airlines, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and United Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Auckland: From London 24-26 hours; from New York is 21 hours; from Los Angeles is 16 hours; from Toronto is 21 hours and from Sydney is 3 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a bank, tourist information centre, bureau de change, snack bars, newsagent, duty-free shops, restaurant, courtesy telephones, Internet access terminals, left-luggage and car hire from Avis, Budget and Hertz, as well as a variety of domestic operators.

Business facilities: There is no business centre as such, although the Airport Camera Centre (tel: (09) 256 8660; fax: (09) 256 8660/4; website: www.airport-camera.com), located on the first floor of the International Terminal and open daily 0700-1900, has photocopying, courier and faxing services as well as a post shop. Within the airport, there are also Internet kiosks that cost NZ$2 for 10 minutes. Two conference rooms, the Marlborough and Blenheim Conference Rooms (tel: (09) 256 8782), situated on the top floor, are available to hire, with full catering facilities available. Space for private meetings can be booked in one of three areas in the Air New Zealand Domestic Terminal – The Club House, The Cabin or The Coachrooms (tel: (09) 256 8936). All international airlines provide VIP lounges.

Arrival/departure tax: A departure tax of NZ$25 on all international flights is payable at the airport, although it is sometimes included in the ticket price.

Transport to the city: There is an Airbus service (tel: (09) 275 9396; fax: (09) 375 4732; e-mail: stopthebus@airbus.co.nz; website: www.airbus.co.nz) that connects all three terminals with the Downtown Airline Terminal, every 20-30 minutes, daily 0620-2200 (journey time – approximately 60 minutes). Tickets cost NZ$15 one-way and are available from the driver. Private shuttle services into the city are also available at the airport, meeting all flights and costing NZ$20, with a possible reduction for travellers in possession of a YHA or VIP card. A taxi to the city centre will cost approximately NZ$45.

Getting There By Water

There are only two ways to get to New Zealand by water – as part of a round-the-world cruise or by crewing on somebody’s yacht, and picking up a berth in South America or Australia. Most cruise ships call at Auckland Harbour in February, stopping for a couple of days before continuing on their way. The Tasman Sea, between Australia and New Zealand, is some 3200km (2000 miles) of lumpy water that can cut up rough at the drop of a hat. The Pacific Ocean between South America and New Zealand is also renowned for being mischievous. This probably explains why the majority of visitors prefer to fly. However, Auckland’s popularity as a cruise stop is growing and the 2003-04 season saw no less than 19 summer cruise ships make 33 visits, bringing some 55,000 visitors to the city, with a further 20 ships making 35 visits as part of the winter-cruise market.

Auckland is the ‘city of sails’ and the harbour is extremely important to the city’s economic and cultural life, which is primarily one of outdoor hedonism. The titular sails are those of an enormous number of private yachts, which compete for space with privately owned pleasure boats ranging from single-engine put-puts to luxury cruisers, upon which people sip cocktails while watching the back wash and listening to the bumble bee-like drone of jet skis hooning around.

Auckland Harbour is located in central Auckland, on the Waitemata Harbour (opposite Queen Elizabeth II Square), and is New Zealand’s maritime hub, providing shipping links to 160 ports in 73 countries. Ports of Auckland (tel: (09) 366 0055; website: www.poal.co.nz) owns and operates ports in the east and west coast of North Island, including Auckland Harbour. The main passenger sectors are the Overseas Passenger Terminal, Queens Wharf and Princes Wharf, which stand alongside each other, off Quay Street, right at the heart of Auckland Harbour. Cruise liners call at the Overseas Passenger Terminal and Queens Wharf, where facilities are numerous. Since this was the focus of the America's Cup, the whole area is awash with smart restaurants, trendy pubs and other entertainment options.

Ferry services: Ferries operated by Fullers (tel: (09) 367 9111; fax: (09) 367 9148; e-mail: enquiries@fullers.co.nz; website: www.fullers.co.nz) depart from the ferry terminal on Quay Street. Destinations are largely limited to local routes, such as Devonport, Bayswater, Birkenhead and Stanley Bay (see Getting Around). However, there are also regular services to the Hauraki Gulf Islands, particularly Great Barrier and Waiheke islands – competing with these services is the Subritzky Line (tel: 0800 478 274; e-mail: info@subritzky .co.nz; website: www.subritzky.co.nz) who also run from the wharfs of the ferry terminal on Queen Street.

Transport to the city: The waterfront area is located at the heart of the city. The public bus service (see Getting Around) stops opposite the Queen Elizabeth II Square at the Britomart Transport Interchange (a conglomeration of bus and train stations), where taxis are also readily available. The harbour is a two-minute walk up Queen Street from the Britomart Centre. The Explorer Bus, a hop-on-hop-off service (tel: (0800) 439 756 or (09) 571 3116; website: explorerbus.co.nz), runs from the ferry terminal on Quay Street every half hour from 0900-1600 (October to April), hourly for the rest of the year (see Tours of the City). Tickets are available from the driver, for NZ$30 (one day unlimited use the Explorer Bus). A useful alternative is the bright-red free Circuit Bus (tel: (09) 442 0555; website: www.stagecoach.co.nz) beginning at the Britomart Centre and traveling through the downtown area and to the University.

Getting There By Road

Driving in New Zealand is easy, inexpensive and although Auckland is one of the busiest areas, in terms of traffic, by European standards, it is still relatively quiet. Nearly all roads are State Highways, designated by ‘SH’ and a number. Small numbers refer to the major routes between destinations (such as SH1 from Auckland to Wellington) while larger numbers indicate smaller roads linking smaller destinations (such as SH94 from Te Anau to Milford Sound). All other roads, of which there are a few, are known, although not officially, as ‘B’ roads. These are often little more than ribbons of tarmac or, on some occasions, ‘metalled’ roads, where the surface is made of loose chippings.

A valid national driving licence is all that is required for driving in New Zealand, for up to 12 months. The legal driving age is 18 years. Insurance is not mandatory but is recommended. Traffic drives on the left and most roads are quiet. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08% (0.03% for drivers under 20 years). Speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on open roads, 50kph (31mph) in urban areas and 20kph (12mph) in the vicinity of schools and stopped school buses. There are ‘Limited Speed Zones’ where the speed limit is often reduced from 100kph (62mph) to 50kph (31mph) in adverse conditions.

The New Zealand Automobile Association (e-mail: aaroadservice@aa.co.nz; website: www.aa.co.nz) provides information on road conditions (tel: (0900) 33222) and general information (tel: (0800) 500 222) and have a reciprocal agreement with the British AA, whereby visiting drivers can get maps for free.

Emergency breakdown service:
NZ AA (0800) 500 222 (or just 222 if calling from a mobile)

Routes to the city: SH1 north runs parallel to the east coast of North Island to Warkworth and then on to Bay of Islands, Northland Forest Park and Cape Reinga. SH1 south heads toward Hamilton and Wellington, which links with SH5 to Rotorua, SH29 to Taurangia, SH2 to Gisbourne, SH3 to New Plymouth (via the west coast and linking with Raglan or Waitomo), SH5 to Napier and SH4 to Wanganui.

Approximate driving times to Auckland: From Rotorua – 2 hours 30 minutes; Bay of Islands – 3 hours; Wellington – 8-9 hours.

Coach services: Auckland has good coach links with other major New Zealand towns and cities, as well as the more popular tourist areas. Coaches operate from the Intercity Coach Terminal, at the Sky City Casino, 102 Hobson Street (tel: (09) 913 6100), where there are basic facilities, such as left-luggage, a café and toilets. Coaches also operate from the Northliner Travel Centre, 172 Quay Street (tel: (09) 307 5873), opposite the ferry terminal. The biggest coach service provider throughout New Zealand is InterCity (tel: (09) 913 6100; e-mail: info@intercitygroup.co.nz; website: www.intercitycoach.co.nz), in conjunction with its partner, Newmans (tel: (09) 913 6200; website: www.newmanscoach.co.nz). Apart from these two major bus companies, there are smaller operators and shuttle bus companies, all of which provide an alternative way of getting beyond the city limits. Go Kiwi Shuttles (tel: (0800) 446 549; e-mail: info@go-kiwi.co.nz; www.go-kiwi.co.nz) run to the Coromandel Peninsula and Rotorua, while Gutherys (tel: (0800) 759 999) travel to Hamilton and Northliner Express (tel: (09) 307 5873; e-mail: info@northliner.co.nz; website: www.northliner.co.nz) to the Bay of Islands.

Getting There By Rail

New Zealand’s rail service is operated by the Tranz Scenic rail company (tel: (0800) 872 467; e-mail: bookings@tranzscenic.co.nz; website: www.tranzscenic.co.nz). Trains are efficient and reasonably priced but rare, operating more as a tourist service than a business or commuter network. Auckland Station is in the Britomart Centre, a purpose-designed, combined train and local bus station in the old post office building opposite Queen Elizabeth II Square, at the harbour end of Queen Street. The building itself is attractive in a modern grandiose way and the facilities are what you’d expect in a new, purpose-built terminus.

Rail services: The only service, apart from infrequent local suburban commuter trains, is the daily early morning service to New Zealand’s capital, Wellington, on the southern tip of North Island, as well as an overnight service from Sunday to Friday (journey time – approximately 11 hours).

Transport to the city: Auckland Station is in the Britomart, two minutes walk from the ferry wharfs and on public bus routes which includes the bus interchange. Taxis are also available. There is an underground walkway connecting the station to Queen Elizabeth II Square.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Stagecoach Auckland (tel: (0800) 103 080; website: www.rideline.co.nz) operates a reasonable bus network around Auckland, most of which leave from the Britomart Centre (see Getting There By Rail). Buses operate Monday to Thursday 0600-2200, Friday 6000-2330, Saturday and Sunday 0700-2300.

A flat fare in the city centre costs NZ$1.30 and NZ$0.50 innercity, and NZ$1.30 thereafter, for each zone travelled through. A ticket for ‘The Link’, a city centre loop-route bus, costs just NZ$1.30. The Auckland Discovery Day Pass is available for NZ$12 and provides unlimited travel on all buses, trains and inner harbour ferries (see below) to the North Shore (including Devonport) for the day of purchase, while the Auckland Pass at NZ$8 is valid on any buses, link buses and North-shore and downtown ferries. Tickets are available for purchase upon boarding, at stations and at visitor centres. There is a free Auckland Busabout Guide available from newsagents and visitor centres, which lists routes and fares.

Auckland has a small, commuter metro service called Connex Auckland (tel: (09) 969 7777; fax: (09) 969 7700; e-mail: info@connexauckland.co.nz; website: www.connexauckland.co.nz), with three main lines, although it is of little value to tourists as it serves only to link the suburbs with central Auckland for the benefit of footsore commuters. The Eastern line operates Monday to Friday 0540-2100 and Saturday 0740-2030, the Southern line operates Monday to Friday 0550-2100 and Saturday 0710-2100 and the Western Line Monday to Friday 0540-2230 and Saturday 0705-2100 (no Sunday services currently exist).

The fare from the city centre to the end of each line is approximately NZ$7-8. For a single in stage one, the fare is NZ$1.10; there are six stages in total. A Day Rover pass costs NZ$10 and is valid from 0900 Monday to Saturday. A 10-trip carnet and a monthly pass are also available for NZ$10-64 and NZ$96-199 respectively. All tickets and passes are available for purchase on the train (exact change is recommended) or more cheaply at the Britomart.

Ferries, operated by Fullers (tel: (09) 367 9111; e-mail: enquiries@fullers.co.nz; website: www.fullers.co.nz), link the ferry terminal on Quay Street with some of the further suburbs, such as Devonport, Bayswater, Birkenhead and Stanley Bay. Ferries operate Monday to Thursday approximately 0615-2300, Friday and Saturday 0630-0130 and Sunday 0700-2200. Ferry fares vary and fluctuate with the price of oil - the main Auckland Devonport Ferry currently costs NZ$9. Tickets are available for purchase on board, at the terminals and in visitor centres.

Auckland’s Rideline (tel: (09) 366 6400; website: www.rideline.co.nz) provides further information on all public transport services. The main service that visitors will find useful is the Explorer Bus (tel: (0800) 439 756 or (09) 571 3116; website: www.explorerbus.co.nz), with one bus running every half hour from 0900-1600 (October to April), hourly for the rest of the year (see Tours of the City), linking up all the major tourist attractions. The hop-on hop-off bus starts and terminates at the ferry terminal on Quay Street. Tickets are available from the driver, for NZ$30 (one day).

Taxis
There are several private taxi companies in Auckland, with ranks situated around the city. Taxis can also be hailed in the street, although booking by telephone is the usual option. One of the biggest companies is the Auckland Co-op (tel: (09) 300 3000; website: www.cooptaxi.co.nz). Alternatively, visitors could try Alert (tel: (09) 309 2000; website: www.alerttaxis.co.nz), Corporate (tel (09) 377 0773; website: www.corporatecabs.co.nz) or Discount (tel: (09) 529 1000). Taxis are metered, with a minimum charge of NZ$3. Tipping is not expected.

Limousines
Limousines are not common in laid-back Auckland. Regency Limousines (tel: (09) 307 0374; website: www.chauffeurs.co.nz) and Corporate Cars (tel: (0800) 733 833; website: www.corporatecabs.co.nz), both of which provide a variety of limousines with chauffeurs. Rates start from NZ$200 per hour. The Auckland Co-op (tel: (09) 300 3000; website: www.cooptaxi.co.nz) offers business-class cars for hire from NZ$65 per hour.

Driving in the City
Auckland is as big and busy as any other major city but driving is not the stressful experience it can be elsewhere. Drivers in New Zealand are much more courteous out in the country and reasonably tolerant in the city. A car is useful, because of the sprawling nature of Auckland and the fact that the roads are in good condition and fairly well signposted. However, the Downtown area gets very congested, especially in the morning and evening rush hours and, in particular, on a Friday afternoon. Parking Downtown can also be a problem. Central 24-hour car parks include Albert Street (to the west of Queen Street and close to the waterfront), Customs Street West and Beresford Street, near Karangahape (K) Road. Metered parking is generally NZ$2-4 per hour and approximately NZ$2-5 per hour in a secure car park.

Car Hire
All the major international car hire companies have offices in Auckland, as well as several domestic companies. Drivers must be over 21 years of age – some companies add on a hefty surcharge if the driver is less than 25 years. A valid national or international drivers licence is required – in some cases, if the licence has been held for less than three-five years, an extra insurance excess may apply. Fully comprehensive insurance is not compulsory but is advisable and often included as part of the car hire deal, as many local drivers in rural areas take a very relaxed attitude to driving regulations and may not be insured themselves. However, extra insurance is not really necessary, as with each hire, there is a refundable accident bond – a credit card slip for anything from NZ$500 to NZ$1000 – which goes toward the cost of repairs (either part of it or in its entirety), should the driver have a prang. Drivers will probably find, when hunting around, that the best deals are available from mid-range domestic firms and that money can be saved by booking a car upon arrival in New Zealand, rather than beforehand.

The main car hire companies include Ace Tourist Rentals (tel: (09) 303 3112; website: www.acerentalcars.co.nz), A2B (tel: (0800) 222 999; website: www.a2brentals.co.nz), Avis (tel: (09) 275 7239; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (0800) 283 438; website: www.budget.co.nz), Hertz (tel: (0800) 654 321; website: www.hertz.com) and Maui (tel: (0800) 651 0800; website: www.maui-rentals.com), which only hires out camper-vans. In the high season, rates start at approximately NZ$60 per day, for the short-term hire of a small car.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Cycling is popular in New Zealand and Auckland is a pleasant city in which to practise this pastime – away from the centre and the rush-hour traffic. A signposted cycle route runs for 50km (31 miles) along the waterfront and around the city. There are several bicycle hire companies, including Adventure Cycles, 36 Customs Street East (tel: (09) 309 5566; website: www.adventure-auckland.co.nz), which hires out a sit-up-and-beg bike for NZ$18 per day, or a mountain bike from NZ$25. The company also hires out bikes for a month-long period, for those who fancy a quick pedal around the North Island, costing around NZ$180. Most companies offer similar hire rates.

Auckland has many motorcycle hire companies, with the minimum size of bike usually being 250cc, which requires a full motorcycle licence. Smaller scooters and mopeds, where an ordinary car driving licence is all that is required, can be hired for short trips but are of limited value when touring the city and no value at all on longer trips. Motorbikes cost NZ$115 per day for a minimum of seven days and NZ$140 a day for a minimum of three days; scooter hire starts at approximately NZ$40 for two hours or NZ$70 for a day. Providers include Bike Adventure New Zealand, Drury, Pukekohe (tel: (09) 848 6337; website: www.banz.co.nz), New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals and Tours, 31 Beach Road (tel: (09) 377 0663; website: www.nzbike.co.nz), and Te Waipounamu Motorcycle Tours, 54 Barry Point Road, Takapuna (tel: (03) 372 3537; website: www.motorcycle-hire.co.nz), although, of these, only New Zealand Motorcyle Rentals and Tours hires out scooters (at NZ$75 per day). Waiheke Island Rental Cars, Waiheke Island (tel: (09) 372 8635), the only place a scooter comes into its own, offers a similar deal as those available on the main land.

Business

Business Profile
The New Zealand economy, once predominantly based on exporting wool, dairy products, wood, minerals, seafood and meat, is now much more dependent with the influx of tourists. However, there is also a growing reliance on high tech industries and expertise, fashion, TV and film production, back-drop provision and special effects. Auckland is a city with more of a business and services-oriented economy. The majority of people in the city work in the service industries, while a lesser number are employed in import and export. The business directory shows familiar corporate names, such as IBM, 3M, Microsoft, Cisco, Merrill Lynch, KPMG, Citibank and Price Waterhouse. The city’s mainstays are business and financial services, manufacturing, transport, communications and the trade and hospitality industries. These last two reflect the importance of tourism to the country as a whole, and to its biggest city. Auckland also contains the country’s biggest port, handling 50% of container traffic. Although a sprawling city with no specific Central Business District, most of Auckland’s businesses are located around Queen Street, from Cook Street as far down as the waterfront.

The Auckland region contains roughly 30% of New Zealand’s population and that population, on average, is younger, more highly paid and better educated than the general population. The last major census in 1996 showed, for example, that 19% of Auckland’s residents had a university degree, exactly twice the national average, although this is due in no small part to the number of people who move to Auckland in search of jobs after they have finished tertiary education.

Tourism is New Zealand’s single biggest revenue earner, currently estimated to be worth well in excess of NZ$4.5 billion. This figure constantly increases, because of the country’s high profile in the world’s eye, as the world’s safest tourist destination, the home of Middle Earth – or more precisely, where the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed. This greatly benefits Auckland and raises its profile internationally, as did being the winners and subsequent hosts of the America’s Cup.

Asian visitors traditionally have accounted for almost one-fifth of New Zealand’s tourists, so the 30% drop in visitor numbers at the start of 1999 was attributed to the Asian financial crisis, though Asian visitors have once again returned on mass to ‘the land of the long white cloud’. Economic recovery, following the impact of this crisis, has naturally been welcome - arrivals at Auckland International airport have risen consistently since 1999 and the 30% increase in passenger capacity of 2003 has led to even greater numbers. This good news is accompanied by a 3.4% increase in retail spending throughout 2003, an overall current unemployment rate of 4% and a GDP of over NZ$100 billion for 2004.

Business Etiquette
Conducting business in Auckland is no different from the procedure in any other major Western city. There are no cultural pitfalls to watch out for, unless dealing directly with Maori (who will outline any protocols before any meetings), and the only noticeable difference lies with the nature of the country’s people. They are notably friendlier, more informal and more relaxed. Although ties and jackets are worn, jackets may soon be discarded and shirtsleeves rolled up. A more informal dress code also exists in most restaurants and bars, although the smartest restaurants may still prefer a jacket and tie to be worn. Business hours are generally Monday to Friday 0900-1700 and punctuality is appreciated, although no one will be offended if the visitor is a little late, especially at times when the traffic is busy.

As dinner is seen as a time for socialising and not business, meetings mainly take place over lunch. Invitations to dine out or to visit someone’s home are far more readily issued than in many other countries and are genuine, not merely as a gesture. The native host will expect to pay for a meal or a round of drinks but guests can step in and pay their turn without creating arguments or offence. Friendliness not formality is the watchword in Auckland.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Despite Auckland’s urban sprawl, the major tourist sites are situated around the city centre, while those that are further afield can be reached by public transport, the Explorer Bus, which links many of the attractions, public transport, ferries or a hire car. The ever-expanding city centre with its eye-catching skyline is easily explored on foot, starting with the waterfront, which epitomises the lively feel of the ‘City of Sails’. Here too can be found the Waterfront Tourist Centre, Britomart bus and train station, useful transport stops and the Ferry Terminal, Department of Conservation Office, the National Maritime Museum and the America’s Cup Village.

The city’s main street, Queen Street, and the roads and malls that flank it, give a sense of the shopping options, including the two-storey Queens Arcade. Queen Street continues past the Town Hall and close by Albert Park, although it is worth remembering that there are many specialised shopping options in the various suburbs that surround the centre, which form self-contained village-like satellites.

Albert Park is one of 22 parks in the city and is home to the more ornate half of the Auckland City Art Gallery, the Heritage Gallery (the other half, the New Gallery, is located on the other side of Wellesley Street) and the Bruce Wilkinson Collection, a charming small display of ornate clocks and figures. Southeast of the centre is the huge 81-hectare (202-acre) Auckland Domain, crowned by the city’s main ‘must-see’ site, the Auckland Museum – packed with Maori and Pacific Island artefacts. From the museum, an extra loop on the Explorer Bus circuit takes visitors further out to Mount Eden, Auckland Zoo and the Museum of Transport, Technology and Social History (MOTAT).

Venturing further afield requires a car, taxis or more public transport. East of the city are golf courses, the Ellerslie Racecourse, attractions like Howick Historical Village, the Botanic Gardens and the Rainbow’s End adventure theme park. Heading west brings more golf courses, orchards, vineyards and a sense of why the Auckland people love their city so much – inside it is lively and outside simply lovely.

Tourist Information
Auckland Visitor Centre
The Atrium, Sky City
Corner of Victoria and Federal streets
Tel: (09) 979 2333. Fax: (09) 970 2334.
E-mail: nzvc@aucklandnz.com
Website: www.aucklandnz.com
Opening hours: Sun-Wed 0800 to 2000, Thurs-Sat 0800-2200.

Waterfront Visitor Centre
Adjacent to the Maritime Museum (see Key Attractions)
Viaduct Harbour
(Same telephone, fax, e-mail and website as above)
Opening hours: daily 0900-1700.

Passes
There are transport passes for tourists (see Public Transport), but if you think that’s too much trouble, try the Auckland Superpass (available from the visitor centres, booking offices or any of the participating outlets); NZ$69, which includes the Sky Tower, Kelly Tarlton’s, Rainbow’s End and a trip to Rangitoto Island.

Key Attractions

Auckland Domain and Auckland Museum
Created in 1845, Auckland Domain is the city’s oldest, largest and most attractive park, with gardens, a sculpture walk (currently featuring work by some of New Zealand’s leading artists, and to be completed in 2006), pathways and ponds, a winter garden with cool and tropical houses, and the Fernz Fernery, with over 100 types of fern. The 81-hectare (202-acre) domain is situated on an extinct volcano, known as pukekawa or ‘hill of bitter memories’. Within the domain is the Auckland Museum, the city’s most visited attraction, combining its Greco-Roman style architecture with a contemporary take on the presentation of the displays. The ground floor is devoted to ‘The People’, the middle to ‘The Place’ and the top to ‘New Zealand at War’, while a small area on the middle floor is given over to the Children’s Discovery Centre. The displays include various interactive and audiovisual components. The museum also houses one of New Zealand’s most important collection of Maori and South Pacific artefacts and the Manaia cultural performances of song, heralded by a conch blast that reverberates through the museum at 1100 and 1330.

Auckland Domain
Tel: (09) 303 1530 (domain) or 309 0443 (museum). Fax: (09) 306 7065 (museum).
E-mail: mmost@aucklandmuseum.com
Website: www.aucklandmuseum.com
Transport: Bus no 502, 283 or Explorer Bus.
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk (domain); daily 1000-1700 (museum).
Admission: Free (domain); NZ$5 suggested donation, valid for repeated entry (museum); NZ$15 (cultural performance).

Auckland City Art Gallery
The city’s main art gallery has the country’s largest collections of both native and international art. The Heritage Gallery, which was opened in 1888, contains the bulk of the collection, with the New Gallery (opened across the street in 1995) concentrating on contemporary art, with revolving exhibitions. In the Heritage Gallery, international artists include Breughel and Millais, with Reynolds and Gainsborough providing a link back to colonial days. Some of the most memorable images are those by Gottfried Lindauer and Charles F Goldie, who depict passive portraits of Maori with moko (facial tattoos). A free guided tour is available daily at 1400. There is a regular programme of talks. The gallery is the subject of a NZ$75 million refurbishment due to end in 2006, which will mean some interesting changes. Both galleries are free until the 6th March 2005.

Heritage Gallery
Corner of Wellesley Street and Kitchener Street

New Gallery
Corner of Wellesley and Lorne Streets

Tel: (09) 307 7700 or (09) 379 1349 (24-hour information line). Fax: (09) 302 1096.
E-mail: gallery@aucklandartgallery.govt.nz
Website: www.aucklandartgallery.govt.nz
Transport: Bus no 502, 283 or Explorer Bus.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: NZ$7; NZ5-12 (special exhibitions); concessions available; daily free guided tours at 1400.

New Zealand National Maritime Museum
In the heart of the Downtown waterfront, this museum pays homage to the debt an island nation owes to its maritime history. It covers almost a millennium of history – from the arrival of Maori and then European settlers, to the 2000 America’s Cup. Displays also deal with navigation skills, whaling, sealing and other fishing activities, the first freezer ships to export farm produce (sheep and dairy products) to Europe, and the invention of the jet boat. Visitors can see historical boats, make their own model boats and take a trip out into Auckland Harbour. The one-hour guided cruises on the Ted Ashby, a replica of one of the traditional, flat-bottomed, ketch-rigged scows that once worked the North Island waterways, sail Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at noon and 1400.

Eastern Viaduct, corner of Quay Street and Hobson Street
Tel: (09) 373 0800. Fax: (09) 377 6000.
E-mail: museum@nzmaritime.org
Website: www.nzmaritime.org
Transport: Satellite Bus from Auckland Museum.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Nov-Apr); daily 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct).
Admission: NZ$12, museum and cruise NZ$19.

Museum of Transport, Technology and Social History (MOTAT)
Commonly known as MOTAT (from the days before ‘and Social History’ was added to the name) this is the country’s largest transport collection. It has a working tramway that links its two sections, the main museum and the Sir Keith Park Memorial Site (NZ$2 return). The latter is the collection of aircraft, including vintage aircraft from the two World Wars and a replica of the Richard Pearse plane – the first successful powered aircraft, long before the Wright brothers. The main museum has displays on all other modes of transport, a reproduction Victorian village and the Science Centre, with interactive exhibits on technology and communications.

Great North Road, Western Springs
Tel: (09) 815 5800. Fax: (09) 846 4242.
E-mail: admin@motat.org.nz Website: www.motat.org.nz
Transport: Public bus 45 or the Link.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: NZ$10; concessions available.

Howick Historical Village
In 1840, Auckland only had 1,500 inhabitants. This living museum deals with the dramatic and turbulent events of the next 50 years, when the bulk of the settlers arrived from Britain, Ireland and Australia and Maori were forcibly removed from their land. The 33 period buildings have been set in a landscape of reproduction gardens, streets and even a village pond. Staff dress in period costume and on the third Sunday of each month, there are special displays relating to different aspects of this period in the city’s past.

Bells Road, Lloyd Elsmore Park, Pakuranga
Tel: (09) 576 9506. Fax: (09) 576 9708.
E-mail: fencible@ihug.co.nz
Website: www.fencible.org.nz
Transport: Public buses to Howick or Eastern (alight opposite Lloyd Elsmore Park).
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (last admission 1600).
Admission: NZ$9.

Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World
Kelly Tarlton was a local diver who designed this centre, which was opened in 1985, so non-divers could experience the underwater world that he found so fascinating. The perspex walk-through tunnels of Underwater World were the first to give visitors the illusion of walking underwater, for close encounters with sharks, rays and other creatures of the deep. The additional Antarctic Encounter includes a reconstruction of the hut in which Captain Scott and his expedition perished, modern-day studies of life on Earth’s frozen continent and a Disney-like ride on the Snow Cat through artificial icebergs and snow drifts.

23 Tamaki Drive, Orakei
Tel: (0800) 805 050 or (09) 528 0603. Fax: (09) 528 5175.
E-mail: ktinfo@kellytarltons.co.nz
Website: www.kellytarltons.co.nz
Transport: Bus no 710, 750, 769 or Explorer Bus.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100 (Nov-Mar); daily 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct).
Admission: NZ$26.

Auckland Zoo
Almost 1,000 creatures from around the world are housed at this forward-looking zoo, which tries to place the animals in surroundings that closely recreate their natural environment. New Zealand’s native species are represented to the tune of 10%, in particular the hard-to-see national bird, the kiwi, in a nocturnal enclosure, as well as the Tuatara – the most famous national lizard-cum-dinosaur. There is also a large walk-through aviary. The rainforest is such a popular feature that it even has its own website. Here monkeys and apes, parrots, spiders and other rainforest creatures can be seen in their natural habitat. Pridelands is an area that is home to the animals of Africa, including lions, rhinos and giraffes, while Hippo River allows very close-up views of hippopotami. Guided tours are available and there is an informative Visitor Centre.

Motions Road, Western Springs
Tel: (09) 360 3800/19. Fax (09) 360 3818.
E-mail: aucklandzoo@aucklandcity.govt.nz
Website: www.zoorainforest.co.nz
Transport: Satellite Bus from Auckland Museum; bus no 45 and tram from MOTAT.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730 (last entry at 1615).
Admission: NZ$16; concessions available.

Sky Tower
New Zealand’s tallest building stands 328m (1,076ft) high in the centre of Auckland, dominating the skyline in the same way as Seattle’s Space Needle. A lift service takes 40 seconds to whizz visitors to the first observation platforms. From here, the views are breathtaking enough but even more so from the very top level, from where visitors can look out over the harbour as well as the city. The tower is one part of the Sky City complex – a casino with cafés, bars and a restaurant. Visitors should note that anyone spending a minimum amount dining here (currently NZ$25.50) receives a free pass to the very top of the tower. It is possible for visitors to climb even higher, to the crows nest or Sky Deck, a further 50m (164ft) up, as part of the Vertigo experience (costing NZ$145), which involves wannabe climbers being put through a simulator to make sure they are up for it. Alternatively, for NZ$195, there is the world’s longest tower-based jump, where a harness and attached wire allow for a 25-second, arrested free-fall, eye-popping descent. Adrenaline junkies can keep their suits on and repeat the experience for NZ$75 or cross the road and do an inverted bungy, called Skyscreamer, for $35.

Sky City
Corner of Federal and Victoria Streets
Tel: (0800) SKYCITY or (09) 363 6422.
E-mail: skytower@skycity.co.nz
Website: www.skycity.co.nz
Transport: Bus no 17 and 27 or Explorer Bus.
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0830-2300; Fri-Sat 0830-2400.
Admission: NZ$18 to observation platforms, plus NZ$3 to the skydeck; concessions available.

Vertigo
Tel: (09) 368 1917.
E-mail: infor@4vertigo.com
Website: www.4vertigo.com

Skyjump
Tel: (0800) 759 586.
E-mail: bookings@skyjump.co.nz
Website: www.skyjump.co.nz

Further Distractions

Stardome Observatory
This large site is operated by the Auckland Observatory and Planetarium Trust, to give the public an insight into what the heavens are all about. The planetarium and extensions were built in 1996, at a cost of NZ$3 million, making for a high-tech modern attraction. Displays include New Zealand’s first known meteorite, a piece of a meteorite that struck Arizona and model rockets. The planetarium shows 45-minute multimedia features, including what it is like to be an astronaut and the story of a young Polynesian learning the art of navigating by the stars to steer his canoe to New Zealand. Night sky and weather permitting, there is also 30-minutes of telescope gazing, during which visitors might catch a glimpse of Jupiter or Saturn’s rings.

One Tree Hill Domain, off Manukau Road, Royal Oak
Tel: (09) 624 1246 or 625 6945. Fax: (09) 625 2394.
E-mail: info@stardome.org.nz
Website: www.stardome.org.nz
Transport: Buses 302, 304, 305 or 312.
Opening hours: Shows take place Tues-Sat 1900 and 2000.
Admission: NZ$12, plus NZ$8 for a guided telescope tour of the sky.

Rainbow’s End
New Zealand’s largest theme park has over 20 major rides and attractions, including the country’s only double-corkscrew rollercoaster, dodgems, bumper boats, a pirate ship, an interactive games arcade and rides for small children.

Corner of Great South Road and Wiri Station Road
Tel: (09) 262 2030. Fax: (09) 262 1958.
E-mail: info@rainbowsend.co.nz
Website: www.rainbowsend.co.nz
Transport: Bus 47 to Westfield Shopping Town.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: NZ$39; NZ$29 (children).

Auckland Botanic Gardens
These beautiful gardens were eight years in the making before opening to the public in 1982. They cover 64 hectares (160 acres) and contain more than 10,000 individual plants, along with a lake, a nature trail, a library and an attractive outdoor café. Plants are well labelled for the enthusiast and pathways clearly signposted for visitors who only wish to walk in pleasant surroundings. The Auckland Botanic Gardens are now also home to the Ellerslie Flower Show.

102 Hill Road, Manurewa
Tel: (09) 267 1457 (Visitor Centre). Fax: (09) 266 3698.
E-mail: botanicgardens@arc.govt.nz
Website: www.arc.govt.nz/arc/auckland-regional-parks/botanic-gardens/
Transport: Buses to Drury, Papakura or Pukehohe, and bus no 66 to Manurewa.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-dusk (gardens); Daily 1000-1600 (Visitor Centre).
Admission: Free.

Eden Garden
A few minutes from Downtown Auckland lies the green oasis of Eden Garden. The 2.25-hectare (5.5-acre) garden on the volcanic slopes of Mount Eden (the highest point in the area and extremely popular with tour buses) was once a quarry. This was until 1965, when a group of dedicated volunteers began to transform it into what is now a national showcase garden of international status, which has won many awards. It has the largest collection of camellias in the Southern Hemisphere, as well as large numbers of rhododendrons and azaleas. Plants from around the world give year-round colour but it is also a good place for visitors to see a large number of native plants too. The landscaped gardens have some statues and a 13.5m (45ft) waterfall.

24 Omana Avenue, Epsom
Tel: (09) 638 8395. Fax: (09) 638 7685.
E-mail: eden@edengarden.co.nz
Website: www.edengarden.co.nz
Transport: Bus 274 or 275.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630.
Admission: NZ$5; concessions available.

Harbour Bridge Climb & Bungy
The most recent adventure activity in the city involves getting kitted out in overalls and a harness and then walking across the upper girders of the Auckland Harbour Bridge, some 65m (213 feet) above the harbour, with the traffic rushing along on the road below. The views are spectacular, even at night, although this is not for the faint hearted. Equally unappealing to the timid is the bridge bungy run by A J Hackett, father of throwing yourself off things with elastic fastened round your ankles.

Westhaven Reserve, Curran Street, Herne Bay
Tel: (0800) 000 GOCLIMB (462 462) or (09) 625 0445. Fax (09) 361 6186.
E-mail: aucklandbungy@ajhackett.com
Website: www.ajhackett.com
Transport: Public, Link and Explorer buses.
Opening hours: Day climbs Mon-Thurs 1000-1500, Fri-Sun 1000-1800; Night climbs Sat 1800 (Apr-Sep), Sat 1940 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: (Bridge Climb) NZ$65; (Bungy)NZ$85; (Combined) NZ$140.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The two Auckland Visitor Centres (tel: (09) 979 2333) provide leaflets giving details of the many marked trails around the city. These include heritage walks that visit historic buildings in the city’s various suburbs, as well as nature walks near the city and way out in the ‘back-blocks’ (more remote areas). However, as Auckland is a sprawling city and most tourists prefer walking in the natural terrain (see Excursions), there are no dedicated walking tours of the city.

Bus Tours
The Explorer Bus (tel: (0800) 439 756; e-mail: info@explorerbus.co.nz; website: www.explorerbus.co.nz) links many of the visitor attractions in central Auckland. A day pass costs NZ$30, the bus leaves from the ferry terminal every 30 minutes, 1000-1600, and as it is a hop-on hop-off experience, the tour takes as long as it takes. At the Auckland Museum, there is an additional summer satellite link that takes passengers on to more outlying attractions, including the Auckland Zoo and the Auckland Art Gallery.

Several companies offer city tours, which last half a day and cost around NZ$55 (or NZ$185 for a full day) including hotel pick-up and drop-off. Companies include Claud 9 Tours (tel: (09) 818 2562; e-mail: info@claud9tours.com; website: www.claud9tours.com) and Great Sights (tel: (0800) 744 487 or (09) 375 4700; e-mail: reservations@greatsights.co.nz; website: www.greatsights.co.nz). North West Auckland (tel: (09) 630 1540; e-mail: john@winetrailtours.com; website: www.winetrailtours.co.nz), run half-day winery tours that include sightseeing, for NZ$90 or NZ$145 for a full day, while Bush and Beach offer wilderness and adventure tours (tel: (09) 575 1458; e-mail: bbl@bushandbeach.co.nz; website www.bushandbeach.co.nz) for NZ$85 a half-day, NZ$130 all day, with downtown pick-up included.

Boat Tours
Tours of Auckland harbour are available through Fullers (tel: (09) 367 9111; website: www.fullers.co.nz). The most popular tours are the 90-minute to two-hour ‘Harbour Cruises’, costing NZ$30.40 and departing 1030 and 1330. Most call in at Devonport and sail across to Rangitoto Island in the Hauraki Gulf, while some also visit Kelly Tarlton’s. For the tourist in search of exhilaration there are NZL 40 and NZ 41, two ex-America’s Cup racers (tel: (0800) 724 569) offering cruises of two hours for NZ$125, and three-hour races for NZ$195 or the more sedate Pride of Auckland (tel: (09) 373 4557) which cruises gently, for NZ$48. A coffee cruise costs NZ$58, a luncheon cruise for NZ$68 and a dinner cruise NZ$90. Alternatively, visitors could try a cruise on the Soren Larsen (tel: (0800) 707265 or (09) 411 8755; e-mail: escape@sorenlarsen.co.nz; website: www.sorenlarsen.co.nz), a Danish Baltic trader made of oak and built in 1949. Tours take three to four hours and cost NZ$97, including lunch. Departures are from opposite the Ferry Building and Dock office, on the weekend (mid November to mid February).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Hauraki Gulf Islands: The Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park (tel: (09) 379 6476; e-mail: aucklandvc@doc.govt.nz; website: www.doc.govt.nz) contains 47 islands, some just a few minutes’ sail away from Auckland. Not all can be visited, as some are nature reserves closed to the general public, although others are devoted to human pleasures, with all the usual holiday facilities.

The volcanic island of Rangitoto is one of the most popular islands and is the largest volcanic cone in Auckland. There are several ferries per day from Auckland’s ferry building and the trip takes 30 minutes. Details are available from Fullers Cruise Centre (tel: (09) 367 9111). Guided walking tours of Rangitoto Island in the Hauraki Gulf are available from The New Zealand Walking Company (tel/fax: (09) 235 0099; website: www.nzwalkingcompany.com). A three-night tour costs NZ$1,117 while a six-night excursion will set you back NZ$1,969, though it’s worth remembering that this includes accommodation, food, guide and transport.

For a Whole Day

Tiritiri Matangi Island: Walkers with a nose for New Zealand wildlife in the raw will enjoy Tiritiri Matangi Island, some 30km (19 miles) north, a re-stocked and re-forested sanctuary for many rare species of native bird. A Fullers Ferry (see above) to the island from the ferry terminal costs NZ$45 (day return). Once there, the Department of Conservation (DOC) guides (tel: (09) 379 6476; e-mail: aucklandvc@doc.govt.nz; website: www.doc.govt.nz), on the beach, impart bush and bird lore for NZ$5 an hour. Visitors should not forget to take lunch, because there is nowhere to buy any.

Auckland vineyards: New Zealand makes some of the best wine in the world, especially sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. The best-known vineyards are situated further south, such as in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, although Auckland has several good vineyards to the west of the city, notably in the Henderson and Kumeu areas. Several tour companies organise day trips, which normally include visits to at least four vineyards and lunch at one of them. Cost is in the region of NZ$55-145 for a half- or full- day, depending on the number of people – some tours require a minimum number of passengers. Companies include North West Auckland (tel: (09) 630 1540, website: www.winetrailtours.co.nz), Bush and Beach (tel: (09) 575 1458; website: www.bushandbeach.co.nz), Waitakere Scenic Tours (tel/fax: (09) 817 4547) and the extra special Fine Wine Tours (tel/fax: (09)849 4519; website: www.insidertouring.co.nz).

Sport

In New Zealand, it is popularly held that sport has taken the place of religion at the weekend. Frankly, Kiwi sports fans have a lot to be proud of on the fields of sporting endeavour. This small nation is, by comparison, very successful on an international scale – and at several sports, notably rugby, cricket and netball.

Rugby has enormous appeal in Auckland and throughout New Zealand. The Rugby League season is April to September and the local team is the Vodafone Warriors (website: www.warriors.co.nz), who play at the Ericsson Stadium, Maurice Road, Penrose (tel: (09) 526 0888). The New Zealand Rugby Football League (tel: (09) 524 4013; website: www.rugbyleague.co.nz) can provide further information. The Rugby Union season is also April to September and the national team, the All Blacks (website: www.allblacks.com), play either at Eden Park, Reimers Avenue, Kingsland (tel: (09) 849 5555), or the Ericsson Stadium, when they are in Auckland, although they also play in Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin. The New Zealand Rugby Football Union (tel: (04) 499 4995; website: www.nzrugby.co.nz) can provide further information.

Six cricket grounds reflect the city’s interest in this colonial game – the most famous is Eden Park, which has staged 225 first-class games since 1913.

Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase through Ticketek (tel: (09) 307 5000; website: http://premier.ticketeck.co.nz). The Visitor Information Centre (tel: (09) 979 2333; website: www.aucklandnz.com) can provide details of all sporting events.

Equestrian Sports: There are several racecourses in Auckland, with night trotting each Friday and Saturday, at the Alexandra Park Raceway, in Epsom. Visitors should contact the Recorded Racing Information Service (tel: (09) 520 7507) for further details. Horseriding is also very popular in New Zealand and there are several stables within easy reach of the city. Most offer lessons, independent or guided rides, with horses for all levels of ability. Stables include Horse Riding Warkworth (tel: (09) 425 8517; e-mail: horseriding@xtra.co.nz; website: www.smallfarmer.org.nz), Ti Tree Hills Horse Treks (tel: (09) 426 7003; e-mail: rides@titreehills.co.nz; website: www.titreehills.co.nz), Pakiri Beach Horse Riding (tel: (09) 422 6275; e-mail: pakirihorse@xtra.co.nz; website: www.horseride-nz.co.nz) and Shepherds Point Horse Riding (tel: (09) 372 8104). Prices start at approximately NZ$35-50 per hour. Closer to the city centre is the Muriwai Beach Riding Centre, Muriwai (tel: (09) 411 7111; e-mail: wairimu1@ihug.co.nz; website: www.farmstayauckland.co.nz), which organises treks on the beach and in the forest, providing excellent views of the local gannet colony and costing NZ$70 for two hours.

Fitness Centres: The Olympic Pool and Fitness Centre, Broadway, Newmarket (tel: (09) 522 4414; e-mail: info@olympicpools.co.nz; website: www.olympicpools.co.nz), is open to the public and has excellent facilities, as well as two swimming pools, a spa and sauna. Visitors planning to use the gym will need to do an induction course, for insurance purposes. Admission casual entrance NZ$6.

Golf: There are several golf courses in and around Auckland, including the Chamberlain Park Public Golf Course, 46a Linwood Avenue, Western Springs (tel: (09) 815 4999), where 18 holes costs around NZ$35, and the Gulf Harbour Country Club, on the Hibiscus Coast (tel: (09) 424 0971; website: www.gulfharbour.nzgolf.net), where 18 holes costs about NZ$80-90, a set of hire clubs NZ$30 and shoes NZ$10. Visiting golfers can play guest rounds for a nominal fee at public courses and annual membership costs at other clubs are usually low by European standards.

Swimming: The best swimming is off the beaches that are easily reached from central Auckland, including several along Tamaki Drive and Cheltenham Beach in Northshore, on the east coast of the Devonport peninsula. There are also 10 major swimming pools in the city, the most notable being the Olympic Pool and Fitness Centre, Broadway, Newmarket (tel: (09) 522 4414). This was built for the 1950 Empire Games and, in addition to the main 50m (164ft) pool, there is a smaller pool, fitness centre, sauna and spa. The Visitor Information Centre (tel: (09) 979 2333) provides a booklet listing the city’s pools and recreation centres.

Tennis: The country’s main international tennis venue is in Auckland – the ASB Tennis Centre, 72 Stanley Street (tel: (09) 274 4577 or 373 3623; website: www.aucklandtennis.co.nz). There are five indoor and seven floodlit outdoor courts, with equipment hire and coaching facilities available. Court hire costs from NZ$30 per hour. More courts are available at the Vodafone Tennis Park, 69 Merton Road, Glen Innes (tel: (09) 528 9782), with six indoor and 17 outdoor courts, equipment hire and coaching available, but if you want to knock-up on a budget many public parks boast adequate courts for as little as NZ$10 an hour, though you’ll need your own gear.

Watersports: Needless to say, the city is a prime watersports destination. It is claimed that roughly one in six Aucklanders owns a boat, while one in three goes boating on a regular basis. The city’s world profile was increased even further by the America’s Cup – the finals were held in Auckland in February 2000, when New Zealand secured the cup and in the summer of 2003, when a predominantly kiwi team won it for Switzerland. The chance to crew on an America’s Cup yacht is available from Sail New Zealand (tel: (0800) 724 569, see Boat Tours for more details) who own two bona fide challengers NZ40 and NZ41 as well as Peter Blake’s Round-The-World Maxi Yacht. Two hours on an America’s cup racer will set you back NZ$125 but prices then rise steeply the longer you are on board and depending upon whether you choose the America’s Cup or Maxi Yacht.

Kayaking can be arranged through Outdoor Recreations and Challenges, in the Birkenhead Leisure Centre, Mahara Avenue, Birkenhead (tel: (09) 418 4109), and through Fergs Kayaks, 12 Tamaki Drive (tel: (09) 529 2230; e-mail: ak@fergskayaks.co.nz; website: www.fergskayaks.co.nz). Hire is approximately NZ$15 per hour for a single, plastic sea kayak, or NZ$45 per day, with guided tours from NZ$65 for a four-hour trip. Windsurfing can be arranged at several of the beaches along Tamaki Drive, while jet skiing is available from Jet Ski Tours (tel: (09) 486 088).

Shopping

Auckland has an ever-increasing reputation for being an excellent shopping destination, with a vibrant homegrown fashion industry and retailers stocking all the latest international designer labels. The Kiwi fashion industry is at the cutting edge, taking (as the food industry once did) influences from Europe, Polynesia and the Pacific Rim and then, through the process of fusion, coming up with a unique style. This can range from the simple or sophisticated to the avant-garde and from the practical to the high art creations of the World of Wearable Arts (an internationally recognised fashion festival in Nelson). Good fashion outlets are mainly located in the city centre, notably the High Street. Local names include Karen Walker (worn by Madonna), Zambesi, Workshop and World.

New Zealand’s fine foodstuffs may not make practical purchases to take home but its wine certainly does. The relative lack of fine wine merchants in the country is a positive advantage, as most people go direct to the vineyards and thus avoid paying inflated prices (no middleman’s mark up here). Visitors should watch out for names such as Coopers Creek, Kumeu River, Nobilo and Matua Valley or check out the free Winemakers of Auckland leaflet, available at the visitor centre. As for wineries from further afield, the best are in the Martinborough, Hawkes Bay, Marlborough and Gold Country regions.

Woollen and leather goods are also good options for souvenirs and gifts, as are Maori traditional crafts and items made from pounamu (greenstone). For jewellery, Fingers, 2 Kitchener Street, stocks creations from dozens of top native designers, while Compendium, 5 Lorne Street, is the best all-round store for general crafts. Some of the best designer gear for outdoors and in, made from natural fabrics, is available from Untouched World, 20 High Street. This is an up-and-coming label, with high quality, designer products that cross a broad range, from food to clothing, rather than just the usual range of knitwear.

Shops are usually open on weekdays from 0900-1700, with late-night shopping on Friday until 2100 in some parts of central Auckland, such as Queen Street. In these areas, and some of the larger suburban shopping malls, you can shop on Saturday 0900-1700 and Sunday from about 1000 until 1600. Visitors should note that the suburbs of Auckland are also renowned for their shopping opportunities (some for fashion, others for sparklers and stinkies) so it is always worth straying off the beaten track.

Aotea Square, next to the IMAX Cinema and opposite the Town Hall, has a market on Friday and Saturday mornings, selling arts and crafts, clothes and jewellery. The Victoria Park Market is open daily from 0900-1800 and is a big flea market where shoppers can get virtually anything. The Polynesian Market is situated just south of Mount Eden and is open on Saturday morning.

Sales tax is 12.5%. Provided receipts are kept, visitors can claim a tax refund at the airport or through the local New Zealand embassy upon return.

Culture

The New Zealand cultural scene is vibrant and receives a lot more attention these days than it has in the past, principally because of the cinematic release of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Auckland, as a cultural melting pot, has a particularly healthy and diverse cultural scene, although not everything that the city generates gets beyond national boundaries.

One of the centres of Auckland cultural life is The Edge, a conglomeration of buildings around the junctions of Queen Street, Wellesley Street West, Albert Street and Mayoral Drive. Auckland Town Hall, Queen Street (tel: (09) 309 2677; fax: (09) 309 2679; e-mail: info@the-edge.co.nz; website: www.the-edge.co.nz) is an impressively renovated building, with its Great Hall said to have some of the finest acoustics in the world. Behind the Town Hall, the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 309 2677, website and e-mail as above), has main and small stages, for drama, music, ballet and opera.

For a taste of the alternative culture with a bit more of a Polynesian influence, visitors should take a Saturday trip up the Karangahape (K) Road, or for that matter to any of the cultural or flea markets that spring up around the city on Saturday. K Road is awash with mainly Maori and Polynesian shops, butchers, fishmongers, grocers, craft shops, clothes shops, cafés and restaurants, all of which offer an intriguing insight into New Zealand’s bi-cultural society.

Tickets can be booked through Ticketek, at the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5000; website: http://premier.ticketeck.co.nz). The Thursday and Saturday editions of the New Zealand Herald, the free monthly listings magazine What’s Happening, and the free newspaper Tourist Times, all provide listings and information on cultural performance and events in Auckland. Listings are also available online (website: www.aucklandnz.com).

Music: The Auckland Philharmonia (tel: (0508) 266 237 for bookings; e-mail: ap@aucklandphil.co.nz; website: www.akl-phil.co.nz) performs mainly at the Auckland Town Hall, Queen Street (tel: (09) 309 2677), which has classical music, opera and ballet regularly featured on the cultural menu. Although based in Wellington, the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra (tel: (04) 801 3890; e-mail: nz.info@nzso.co.nz; website: www.nzso.co.nz) also frequently performs in Auckland, usually at the Town Hall or the Aotea Centre, Queen Street. Outdoor concerts are also held regularly in the Auckland Domain during summer.

Theatre: The main venue, with various sized auditoriums, is the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (Bookings as above). The beautifully restored Civic Theatre, Queen Street and Wellesley Street West (tel: (09) 307 5058; e-mail: civictheatre@xtra.co.nz; website: www.civictheatre.co.nz), north of the Town Hall, is used for plays and musicals. More modern rock, dance, drama and cabaret performances take place at the Sky City Theatre, corner of Federal Street and Victoria Street (tel: (09) 912 6000, see also Sky City). Local productions can be seen at the Dolphin Theatre, Spring Street, Onehunga (tel: (09) 636 7322; website: www.dolphintheatre.org.nz) and the Howick Little Theatre Inc, Lloyd Elsmore Park, Howick (tel: (09) 534 1406; e-mail: info@hlt.org.nz; website: www.hlt.org.nz).

Dance: Numerous local dance groups include the Auckland Dance Company. There are regular visits from the Royal New Zealand Ballet Company, whose base is in Wellington. Most performances are given at the Aotea Centre, Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5060). Black Grace is an all-male dance troupe from the Pacific Islands, while the Pounamu Maori Performance Group give regular displays of Polynesian song and dance at the Auckland Museum, Auckland Domain (tel: (09) 306 7067).

Film: The city has numerous cinemas, with the best listings in the daily New Zealand Herald. Most of the mainstream cinemas are situated along Queen Street, at the junction with Wellesley Street, including the Mid-City Cinema Centre, 239 Queen Street (tel: (09) 307 5075), and the St James Theatre, 312 Queen Street (tel: (09) 377 7666). The main arthouse cinema is the Academy, situated beneath the city library, 64 Lorne Street (tel: (09) 373 2761). There is also a seven-storey high IMAX screen at Force Entertainment Centre, next to Aotea Square, Queen Street (tel: (09) 979 2400).

The homegrown films that have caused the biggest international sensation are the Lord of the Rings trilogy, directed by Peter Jackson – parts of which were filmed not far from Auckland. The city has achieved more serious-minded celluloid acclaim for itself through the 1994 film Once Were Warriors, made from Alan Duff’s harrowing novel about the struggle of a poor Maori family in south Auckland – but it’s worth remembering that a little research pays great dividends with the New Zealand film industry which was also being responsible for such gems as The Piano (1993), Heavenly Creatures (1994) and Whale Rider (2002), to name but a few.

Cultural Events: Opera in the Park, in February, is a family-orientated concert staged at Auckland Domain. The Pasifika Festival celebrates Polynesian culture and takes place in Western Springs, each March. There are numerous small food, wine and music festivals throughout the year, especially during summer. The year ends with Christmas in the Park, another family-orientated concert at the Auckland Domain, in December.

Literary Notes: New Zealand, rather than just Auckland, has several literary figures, many of whom are known internationally, such as Katherine Mansfield, most noted for her short stories. Janet Frame concerned herself largely with the emotional crises that she herself experienced, while Keri Hulme, of mixed Maori, English and Orkney descent, won the Booker Prize for The Bone People (1983). This was an experimental work drawing on Maori culture and the best selling book ever by any living New Zealand author. Maurice Gee, who worked in Auckland as a teacher and later a librarian, sets several of his novels in the city. Alan Duff, whose kitchen-sink dramas, such as Once Were Warriors (1990), examines the place of Maori in modern society.

Nightlife

Auckland may not be New York or Paris but it has its share of night entertainment. The waterfront is where many of the smarter venues are, in particular around the America’s Cup Village and the new Princes Wharf development. High Street, to the south of Queen’s Wharf, also has a number of good bars, including some with live music, and there are also a number of excellent clubs and bars in the immediate ‘burbs, particularly along Karangahape Road, or in Ponsonby and Parnell.

In bars and clubs the dress code tends to be casual, although some places enforce a smarter rule and are particularly anti black jeans and leathers, since these tend to be clothes favoured by gangs. Licensing laws are not strict and some bars have a 24-hour licence, while others remain open until the early hours. The age limit for drinking alcohol is 18 years. On average, a pint of beer will cost approximately NZ$3-6, while a glass of wine can be anything from NZ$4-12, depending upon where you do your drinking.

To find out what is on, read the Thursday and Saturday editions of the New Zealand Herald, the free monthly listings magazine What’s Happening, or the free newspaper Tourist Times.

Bars: Lots of local favourites are situated down by the waterfront, such as the vast glass-walled bar, The Loaded Hog, Quay Street, in the Viaduct Basin, Fox’s Ale House and Restaurant, O Hagan’s and Plum, with newly fashionable hangouts in Prince’s Wharf, refurbished as a result the America’s Cup challenges. These include Bellini, in the Hilton Auckland, Prince’s Wharf, 147 Quay Street, and the decidedly un-Russian vodka bar, Lenin Bar, Prince’s Wharf, 201 Quay Street. With the city’s British-influenced past, it is not surprising that there are numerous British-style bars in Auckland, the biggest being the Civic Tavern, 1 Wellesley Street West, which has an Irish bar, Murphy’s, and an English bar, the London Bar, both situated downstairs, with live music and a bistro restaurant. Alternatively try the aptly named Shakespeare Tavern (a micro-brewery producing its own ale) or Mad Dogs and Englishmen, both on Albert Street, or The Immigrant Irish Bar, 104 Fanshawe Street, an out-and-out Irish pub, with live music at the weekend. Other places worth dropping into are the Dogs Bollix on the corner of Karangahape and Newton roads, Starks Civic Theatre Bar at the corner of Queen and Wellesley streets, Rakino’s on the fist floor of 31 High Street, the Belgian Beer Café in Vulcan Lane, Elbow Room in Durham Lane or Tabac, 6 Mills Lane, renowned for its comfortable velvet room and for being part-owned by ex Crowded House singer-songwriter Neil Finn.

Casinos: Sky City Casino (website: www.skycityauckland.co.nz) in the Skytower, on the corner of Victoria and Federal Streets, is a gambling haven and an entertainment complex that includes a theatre, restaurant, bars and a hotel, as well as the casino itself. There is a minimum age of 20 years for entering the casino, although a passport is not required. Dress code is smart-casual and no T shirts, jeans or sandals are allowed.

Clubs: The Globe, 299 Queen Street (website: www.acb.co.nz), is a good place to start, with DJs from 2200 on Friday and Saturday. At the harbour, The Loaded Hog, Quay Street (website: www.loadedhog.co.nz), in the Viaduct Basin, has long been a favoured hangout for yachties and yuppies alike while also in the basin, if you want to get up close and personal, try Plum. The Fu Bar at 166 Queen Street (website: www.fu.co.nz) caters to a younger alternative crowd while the Khuja Lounge, 536 Queen Street (website: www.khujalounge.co.nz), caters for the more mature, musically a-tuned punters, as does The Jazz Bar at the corner of Queen and Rutland streets and Galatos, 17 Galatos Street, a mellow lounge bar with DJ-led dancing. For the big party atmosphere head for Papa Jack’s Voodoo Lounge in Vulcan Lane, Ibiza, 253 K’Road, or Roots, 322 K’Road, while live music aficionados might prefer the Kings Arms, 59 France Street, where they can witness small-time NZ touring acts playing trad’ rock, R&B, thrash, metal or alternative and punk sets.

Comedy: Classic, 31 Queen Street (website: www.comedy.co.nz) is a well-known comedy venue that showcases local talent as well as up and coming international acts. There is also the Aotea Centre, Aotea Square, Queen Street, Silo Theatre, Lower Grays Avenue, Maidment Theatre, corner of Princess Street and Alfred Street, and the Civic Theatre, corner of Queen Street and Wellesley Street.

Live Music: There is plenty of choice at the weekend, mostly in the Downtown area, along Karangahape (K) Road and in Ponsonby. Try Papa Jack’s Voodoo Lounge, 9 Vulcan Street, which has live touring bands and DJs, The Jazz Bar, corner of Queen and Rutland streets, where you can see many varieties of jazz, Galatos for off-beat live acts, the Kings Arms for sweaty bands, and Rakino’s, the Dogs Bollix (website: www.dogsbollixirishbar.co.nz) or O Hagan’s (website: www.ohagans.co.nz) for equally lively fare. It’s worth remembering that most New Zealand bars are threefold; bar, restaurant and club/venue, so lots of places will at some point in the evening introduce a more clubby feel, even if it’s just some hippy with an acoustic guitar sitting in the corner and playing ‘Wild Rover’. All the bars mentioned in this section are listed above.

City Statistics

Location: Auckland Region, North Island, New Zealand.
Country dialling code: 64 (Auckland dialing code is 09).
Population: 1.25 million (greater Auckland region).
Ethnic mix: 73% European descent, 12% Maori descent, 6% other Pacific Islanders (including Tonga, Samoa and Cook Islands), 5% Asian, 4% other.
Religion: Predominantly Christian, with minor representations of other major religions including Muslims, Buddhists, Hindus and Jews – though the minority with biggest clout, politically and spiritually, are Maori, the country’s first immigrants.
Time zone: GMT + 12.
Electricity: 240-250 volts AC, 50Hz; flat three-pin plugs are used.
Average January temp: 24ºC (75ºF).
Average July temp: 14ºC (57ºF).
Annual rainfall: 1,185mm (46.2 inches).

Special Events

Auckland Anniversary Day Regatta (website: www.regatta.org.nz), late Jan, Waitemata Harbour
Opera in the Park, Feb, Auckland Domain
Devonport Food and Wine Festival (website: www.devonportwinefestival.co.nz) third week in Feb, Devonport
Pasifika Festival, Polynesian Festival, 1 Mar, Western Springs Reserve
Round the Bays Run (website: www.roundthebays.co.nz), 70,000 plus jog 10km (6 miles), 30 Mar, Tawaki Drive
Waiheke Jazz Festival (website: www.waihekejazz.co.nz), Apr, various venues
Auckland Comedy Festival, Apr-May, various venues
Royal New Zealand Easter Show, equestrian events, wine tastings and arts and crafts (website: www.royaleastershow.co.nz), Apr, Auckland Showgrounds, Greenlane
Auckland International Film Festival (website: www.nzff.co.nz), early Jul, various cinemas and Town Hall
Wine Waitakere, wine festival (website: www.waitakerenz.co.nz), Oct, Waitakere
Auckland-Russell Yacht Race, Oct, Auckland Harbour, starting at the yacht basin
Ellerslie Flower Show (website: www.ellerslieflowershow.co.nz), late Nov, Auckland Botanic Gardens, Manurewa
Auckland Cup, horseracing event, Dec, Ellerslie Racecourse
Christmas in the Park, seasonal family event, Dec, Auckland Domain

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: NZ$2
33cl bottle of beer: NZ$3-5
Financial Times newspaper: NZ$10
36-exposure colour film: NZ$14
City-centre bus ticket: NZ$1.30
Adult rugby or cricket ticket: from NZ$20-30
Three-course meal with wine/beer: from NZ$55

1 New Zealand Dollar (NZ$1) = £0.39; US$0.69; C$0.80; A$0.91; ¬0.58
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005