World City Guide

Avignon, situated in the heart of the Vaucluse region in the south of France, is famed for two celebrated attractions – Le Palais des Papes (Popes’ Palace) and Pont St Bénezet (the bridge made famous in the ditty ‘Sur le pont d’Avignon, on y danse, on y danse&’). But the city has much more to offer. The Palais des Papes marks the skyline with its graceful and ornate spires, an exterior more awe-inspiring than anything inside. Fire destroyed many of the rooms and only one single bedroom remains fully furnished to impress visitors. The famous bridge, erected in the 12th century, to carry St Bénezet over to the neighbouring village of Villeneuve, nowadays retains only four of its original 22 arches.

Flood, fire, pillaging, plague and Le Mistral have all ravaged Avignon. Allegedly, the town got its name from the Celts, who dubbed the area ‘Avenio’ (‘the town of violent winds’), in the Bronze Age. Despite all of this, most of Avignon amazingly has remained intact. Around every corner of the narrow, winding cobbled streets, elaborately decorated chapels, churches and convents are revealed. Most date from the 14th century, when Avignon became the centre of Christendom and the Palais des Papes was home to a series of seven popes, often more interested in plotting and partying than religion.

Situated on the River Rhône, the setting of Avignon is as colourful as its history, with images straight out of a Van Gogh painting. Quiet streets, secluded courtyards and secret gardens, cosy pavement cafés and fantastic restaurants frequented almost entirely by locals make Avignon the perfect place for a romantic weekend away. Nevertheless, the city is rarely completely at peace. In the 13th century, Avignon became known as the ‘ringing town’ because of its proliferation of bells. Today, during the summer months, the population of some 88,000 is almost doubled by tourists.

Although subject to violent winds (the most famous being Le Mistral, a cold, dry and northwesterly wind) Avignon’s climate is otherwise pleasant, with warm summers, perfect for alfresco activities. The annual Avignon Festival runs throughout July and attracts aspiring performers and aficionados of the arts. The official festival usually numbers over 40 different acts – most of them performing in the evocative courtyard of the Palais des Papes or in old churches and cloisters around Avignon. There is also a local ‘fringe’, known as the ‘Off’ Festival, which comprises 400 acts running non-stop from dawn through to the early hours. Every lamppost and railing is covered with signs advertising some performance, every café has a resident musician and every square is crammed with minstrels, clowns and artists. The scene would be straight out of medieval times, if it were not for the tourists.

Getting There By Air

Marseille-Provence Airport (MRS)
Tel: (04) 4214 1414 or 4289 0974 (flight information). Fax: (04) 4214 2724.
E-mail: contact@marseille-provence.aeroport.fr
Website: www.marseille-provence.aeroport.fr

Marseille-Provence Airport, located 80km (50 miles) southeast of Avignon, has two terminals – terminal one is for international services, while terminal two is for domestic flights. The airport serves 80 destinations, including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Brussels, London, Milan, Munich and Paris.

Major airlines: The national airline is Air France (tel: (0802) 802 802; website: www.airfrance.co.uk ). Other airlines serving the airport include Alitalia, British Airways and Lufthansa.

Airport facilities: Facilities include left-luggage, a pharmacy and 24-hour medical facilities, banks, bureaux de change, ATMs, shops, bars, cafés and restaurants, a post office, tourist information, lost property, VIP salon and car hire from Ada, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Sixt and National/Citer.

Business facilities: The Marseilles Provence Business Centre (tel: (04) 4214 2774; e-mail: centre.affaires@marseille-provence.aeroport.fr), Hall 4, in Terminal Two, provides Internet, fax and telephone facilities, as well as several small meeting rooms accommodating up to 30 delegates. The Salon Panoramique in Terminal One holds 150 delegates for meetings.

Transport to the city: There are regular shuttle buses (navettes), operated by Transport Routier Passagers Aeriens – TRPA (tel: (04) 9150 5934), to St-Charles SNCF railway station (tel: (04) 9504 1000), every 20 minutes 0530–2130. These take 25-30 minutes and tickets cost ¬8.50. From the station, there are direct links to Avignon (journey time – 50 minutes) on regional TER trains (see Getting There By Rail).

Airport taxis (tel: (04) 4214 2444) to Avignon cost approximately ¬120 (journey time – 45 minutes).

Avignon-Caumont Airport (AVN)
Tel: (04) 9081 5151. Fax: (04) 9081 5166.
E-mail: aeroport@avignonvaucluse.cci.fr
Website: www.avignon.aeroport.fr

Avignon-Caumont Airport, operated by the Avignon-Vaucluse Chamber of Commerce, is located just eight kilometres (five miles) from Avignon. Recent developments have enlarged the airport and improved the runway. Links to airport hub Clermont-Ferrand in Auvergne have expanded destinations to include 21 French (including four daily flights to Paris) and European destinations (including London City Airport, Brussels, Amsterdam, Geneva, Turin and Milan). Passenger traffic shows a steady increase, with 2001 figures at 125,538, compared to 2000 figures at 124,355. Another route to Paris (journey time – 1 hour 10 minutes) or London Stansted (journey time – 2 hours) is via Ryanair from Nîmes Arles Camargue airport, only 20 minutes from Avignon by taxi.

Major airlines: Air France (tel: (0802) 802 802; website: www.airfrance.co.uk ) is the national carrier. No other airlines serve this airport.

Airport facilities: These include a shop, bar-restaurant, hotel, car parks and car hire from Avis, Budget, Hertz, National/Citer and Europcar.

Business facilities: None.

Transport to the city: Taxis to Avignon city centre are provided by Taxis Avignonnais (tel: (04) 9082 2020) and cost about ¬15 (journey time – 10 minutes), with additional charges for baggage (¬0.61 per item) and extra passengers (¬1.19). There are no other transport options currently available from Avignon-Caumont Airport.

Approximate flight times to Avignon: From London is 3 hours; from New York is 11 hours; from Los Angeles is 20 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 13 hours 10 minutes; from Sydney is 24 hours 50 minutes and from Paris Orly is 50 minutes. (All flights are via Paris.)

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Motorways (autoroutes) bear the prefix ‘A’, national roads ‘N’ and minor roads (départementales) are classed as ‘D’ roads. Traffic drives on the right and drivers must give way to the right, unless the route is marked with 'passage protégé' signs (a broad arrow, a yellow diamond or an ‘X’ on a triangular background) or if the driver is at a roundabout indicating ‘Vous n’avez pas la priorité’. Tolls (péages) are enforced. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways, 110kph (68mph) on dual carriageways separated by a central reservation, 90kph (56mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn by all passengers (front and rear). Children under 10 may not travel in the front seat. A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times. All headlamp beams must be adjusted for right-side driving, by use of beam deflectors or by tilting the headlamp bulb-holder. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover in France. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy.

Autoroutes du Sud de la France – ASF (tel: (04) 9032 9005; website: www.asf.fr ) is responsible for the southern France motorway network and produces free maps with information in English – available at Avignon Tourist Office (see Sightseeing). The motorway network number (tel: (04) 9178 7878) provides information on traffic conditions and driving regulations in southeastern France. Information is also available from Autoroutel (tel: (08) 9270 7001). Traffic conditions are broadcast on RadioTrafic 107.7FM. Emergency telephones linked up to the police are located every two kilometres (1.2 miles) on each side of the motorway.

Emergency breakdown service: Garage CATTO (04) 9082 1611

Routes to the city: The motorways A7 (direction Paris, Lyon, Marseilles, Nice and Italy) and A9 (direction Nîmes, Perpignan and Barcelona) are located seven and 10 kilometres (four and six miles) from central Avignon, north and southwest respectively.

Approximate driving times to Avignon: From Marseilles – 1 hour; Barcelona – 3 hours 45 minutes; Paris – 6 hours.

Coach services: The coach station, Gare Routière, boulevard St Roch (tel: (04) 9082 0735) serves the Vaucluse department, including Aix, l’Isle/Sorgue, Nîmes, Carpentras and Cavaillon. International services, operated by Linebus (tel: (04) 9085 3048) and Eurolines (tel: (04) 9085 2760; website: www.eurolines.com), with connections to Brussels, Morocco, London, Prague, Italy and Spain, also depart from here. The Avignon Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) can provide information on the independent companies operating from the coach station. Tickets are available for purchase from the driver.

Getting There By Rail

Societé Nationale de Chemins de Fer – SNCF (tel: (08) 9235 3535; website: www.sncf.fr ) is the national rail carrier. Avignon belongs to the regional network, Transports Express Régionaux – TER (tel: (08) 3635 3539; website: www.ter-sncf.com ), of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. The standard of service varies – some trains are excellent, while others, even in first class, are of poor quality. Generally, trains are punctual.

The high-speed train station, La Gare TGV, is located two to three miles to the south of the city centre and linked to central Avignon via shuttle buses, which stop in front of the post office. This service brings Paris within two hours and 40 minutes of Avignon. Some of the high-speed trains also travel on to Avignon’s Central Station, boulevard St Roch (tel: (04) 9027 8163). Facilities at both stations include left-luggage, a café, newsagent and ticket reservations service (tel: (08) 3635 3535). Bilingual signs and multi-lingual announcements ease the way for foreign visitors. As throughout France, train tickets must be validated prior to boarding.

Rail services: There are direct links to Paris (journey time – 2 hours 40 minutes) from where services connect to Lille, Nantes, Rouen, Brussels and Geneva. Eurostar (tel: (0)8705 186 186 (UK number), or +44 12336 17575 (from outside the UK); website: www.eurostar.com ) offers a direct London Waterloo-Avignon service every Saturday from 24 May to 18 October (journey time – 7 hours 15 minutes). To travel on any other day of the week within this period, passengers must use Eurostar Plus and the TGV service.

Transport to the city: A shuttle service operates from La Gare TGV to the city centre (journey time – 15 minutes), costing just ¬1 per person. The same journey by taxi will cost ¬10. Avignon Central Station is linked to all major bus routes. Both stations have taxi ranks.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Transports en Commun de la Région d’Avignon – TCRA (tel: (04) 3274 1832) provides public transport throughout ‘Grand Avignon’ (the Avignon Region), including services to Les Angles, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and Le Pontet. The major bus stops in central Avignon are in front of the main post office (poste), place Pie and rue de la République. The system runs 0700-1940 Monday to Saturday (less frequently on Saturday). The restricted Sunday service (labelled with a number followed by a ‘D’ for dimanche) operates 0800-1800. Line 30 runs on weekdays, weekends and bank holidays. During the Avignon Festival, there is a special late-running service and reduced price tickets for public transport throughout the festival (the Bustivale pass) offering 30% reduction on standard prices.

Tickets can pre-purchased or bought on the bus and must be stamped upon boarding. Information and bus tickets are available at the TCRA Point d’Accueil, avenue de Lattre de Tassigny (tel: (04) 3274 1832), located between the central rail station and the tourist office. Tickets are also available for purchase at tabacs, newsagents and shops displaying the TCRA logo. One ticket costs ¬1, two tickets ¬1.75 and a carnet of 10 tickets costs ¬7.80. Weekly and monthly passes are also available at ¬7.80 and ¬27.30 respectively (concessions are available).

Taxis
The taxi service is centrally run by Taxi Radio Avignonnais (tel: (04) 9082 2020; fax: (04) 9086 6169). The major taxi ranks are located in front of the central and new TGV rail stations, while others are at Raspail (rue de la République), St Lazare (near the university) and place Pie. Taxi journeys around central Avignon are tallied by the kilometre at ¬1.20 (0700-1900) and ¬1.80 (1900-0700 and bank holidays), with a pick-up fee of ¬1.90. Luggage (per item) costs ¬0.61, an animal ¬0.71 and a fourth passenger ¬1.19. Tips are welcome but not expected.

Limousines
Lieutaud Voyages (tel: (04) 9086 3675; e-mail: contact@cars-lieutaud.fr; website: www.cars-lieutaud.fr ), situated in front of the SNCF Avignon Central Station, charge ¬392 for one to five passengers and ¬416 for six to 15 passengers, for one day of hire, including an English-speaking chauffeur. Gaillard (tel: (04) 3240 9866) offers a similar service.

Driving in the City
Avignon’s Old Town is compact enough to be covered on foot and parts of it are pedestrianised. However, for visitors who choose to drive, conditions are good, roads rarely traffic-clogged and there is a special pleasure to be gained in driving through the portes (gates) of the ancient city walls.

The main supervised and 24-hour car parks are located at the stations, at 7 avenue Monclar, and underneath the Palais des Papes square. Free, supervised car parks (tel: (04) 9080 8102) are located at the Ile Piot (1,500 spaces), with free shuttle buses running to the city centre, and Parking des Italiens, avenue des Italiens (550 spaces). In peak season, an additional car park opens at the foot of the Pont St-Bénézet. It is best to choose these supervised spaces, as car theft is all too frequent. Alternatively, there are good car parks west of the city centre.

Car Hire
The minimum age for car hire varies from 21 to 25 years. Drivers must possess a national driving licence, which they must have held for at least one year. Third party insurance is mandatory for driving in France and this should be covered in the hire price. Additional insurance is optional.

Providers include ADA, 23 boulevard St Ruf (tel: (04) 9086 1889), RentaCar, 130 avenue Pierre Sémard (tel: (04) 9088 0802), Sixt, 3 avenue St Ruf (tel: (04) 9086 0661), and Véo, 51 avenue Pierre Sémard (tel: (04) 9087 5343). All are centrally located. Daily rates for hire of a small car start at around ¬45 for one day.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Provence Bike, 52 boulevard St Roch (tel: (04) 9027 9261; e-mail: motorvelo@provencebike.com), hires out motorbikes at ¬51-150, scooters at ¬36-52 and bicycles at ¬8-18 per day, from the bus station on boulevard St Roch, during high season (April to October). A similar service is provided by Aymar, 80 rue Guillaume Puy (tel: (04) 9086 3249).

Business

Business Profile
The Avignon area, comprising two regional administrative districts (Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur and Languedoc-Roussillon) and three departments (Vaucluse, Gard and Bouches-du-Rhône), has a population of some 458,500 and is administered from Avignon Town Hall. In addition, 32 communes in the surrounding area, comprising some 250,000 inhabitants, rely on Avignon for their employment.

Avignon is centrally located and has easy access to Marseilles, Lyon and Paris – just a 50-minute drive from Marseilles, two hours from Lyon and, with the new TGV Méditerranée, two hours and 40 minutes from Paris. Avignon also boasts an immense cultural wealth, in terms of monuments (such as the UNESCO-listed Palais des Papes) and the international Theatre Festival. These factors play an important role in the development of tourism (including business tourism), which is extremely important to Avignon’s economy. Chemicals, packaging, construction, agriculture, metals and precision instruments are the other industries in the region, while food and the production of appellation contrôlée wine also have a strong tradition in the area. There are now some 7,000 companies in and around Avignon, many situated at the new site of Courtine, which extends across 300 hectares (741 acres) around the TGV station.

Local government, SNCF railways and EDF electricity are the main employers in Avignon, while there are numerous small businesses – bakeries, patisseries and retail outlets. The university (with 8,000 students) has kept the city’s population young. The inauguration of Avignon’s TGV station has helped to develop the Courtine district, south of Avignon Centre. Projects are underway to bring businesses (including the headquarters of food manufacturer La Durance) and hotels to the area.

Unemployment in Avignon, as throughout France, is on the way down. The most recent statistics show the unemployment rate for the Vaucluse, which includes Avignon, standing at 10.4%, slightly higher than France’s average at 9% (March 2003).

Business Etiquette
Avignon feels far away from Paris and its business practices are markedly different. Breakfast meetings are rare, only materialising at large conferences during the Theatre Festival. Standard business hours in Avignon are Monday to Friday 0900-1800. Normally, meetings are fixed for mid-morning or mid-afternoon, while lunch meetings usually only involve colleagues already involved on a joint project. Punctuality is not expected and being 15 minutes late is standard practice. No excuse is necessary other than saying ‘J’ai eu un retard’ (‘I was delayed’). In other respects, however, conducting business in Avignon is quite a formal affair. Meetings should be confirmed in writing and colleagues addressed by their surname. Smart dress is appropriate. Businesswomen should take heart from the fact that the city’s dynamic mayor is a woman – Marie-Josée Roig. It is unlikely that business visitors will be invited for drinks or to homes at first. However, after several meetings, socialising after work becomes more common.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
In Avignon, everything worth seeing is within easy walking distance and orientation is not difficult. The city is enclosed in fortified medieval walls, with the River Rhône to the north and west of the town. The Palais des Papes and Pont St Bénezet are in the north, connected by the place du Palais, which itself runs into Avignon’s central square (place de l’Horloge) just a little south. This square is home to the impressive Hôtel de Ville and the Opera House, decorated with statues of former visitors Corneille and Molière. From here, the main thoroughfare, the rue de la République, turns into the cours Jean Jaurès as it approaches the southern city walls and the railway station. To the east are several shopping streets and a mass of interesting restaurants and cafés.

The best way for visitors to explore Avignon is to wander through its maze of medieval streets. Many take their names from inns (such as rue du Chapeau Rouge) or from trades – such as rue des Fourbisseurs (‘weapon sharpeners’), rue du Vieux Sextier (‘Old Sexton’) and rue des Teinturiers, named after the dying process inherent in calico printing. For travelling off the beaten path, the rue Joseph-Vernet is a good bet, lined with Avignon’s most stylish shops, old hotels and quaint courtyards and gardens. More imposing but still frequented, mainly by the locals, is the cathedral, Notre-Dame des Doms, a brief walk past the Palais des Papes. The cathedral is surrounded by Rocher des Doms, a charming public park offering magnificent views of the city and the Rhône.

Avignon also has a cluster of interesting little museums that are clearly detailed on a free map available at the Avignon Tourist Office. Most notable is the Musée Angladon, 5 rue Laboureur (tel: (04) 9082 2903), which displays the private collection of aesthete Jacques Doucet, including Modigliani’s The Pink Blouse and Van Gogh’s The Railroad Cars.

Tourist Information
Office de Tourisme d’Avignon
41 cours Jean Jaurès
Tel: (04) 3274 3274. Fax: (04) 9082 9503.
E-mail: information@ot-avignon.fr
Website: www.avignon-tourisme.com and www.ot-avignon.fr
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 1000-1700 (Apr-Sep); Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1000-1200 (Oct-Mar).

There is also an information office at Espace St Bénezet, open daily 1000-1900 (Apr-Oct).

Passes
The Avignon Passion card is available free at participating museums, on tourist transport and at Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon tourist offices. The pass offers cut-price admission (reductions of 20–50%) after the first full-price attraction has been visited and includes all the various sightseeing tours listed in the Tours of the City section. Participating museums and attractions include Musée Clavet, Musée Vouland, Musée du Petit Palais, Palais des Papes and Pont St Bénezet. The pass is valid for two weeks of unlimited visits for the holder and their family.

Key Attractions

Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes)
This palace-fortress looms above Avignon. The immense courtyard in front, lined with cafés and restaurants, is also the impressive setting for the Avignon Festival, while the battlements offer wonderful views. The palace was built over 30 years, during the reign of three popes – Bénédict XII, Clément VI and Innocent VI. The palace is based on the fusion of two buildings – the austere ‘Old Palace’ (1334-42), constructed on the orders of Bénédict XII, and the extravagant Gothic ‘New Palace’ (1342-52), of Clément VI. It is a frowning mass of elaborate architecture, covering some 15,000 sq metres (166,660 sq feet) and reducing Avignon’s other buildings to toy-town proportions.
The exterior is chilling and unfriendly, with a crenellated façade and slit windows. In contrast, the interiors are rich with the frescoes of Italian artist Matteo Giovannetti and Sienese artist Giovanni Luca, survivors of the fire that burned away many paintings and much finery in 1413. It is worth taking the audiocassette that is included in the admission price, to make sense of the maze of rooms within the palace. Among the most beautiful is the Pope’s Bedchamber. The walls are awhirl with frescoes of birds and grapevines, while the floor is covered with reproductions of the 14th-century tiles discovered beneath the nearby study of Bénédict XII, in 1963. Religious themes dominate the frescoes in the Chapelle St Martial and Pope’s Antechamber, while hunting scenes decorate the Stag Room. The Grand Tinel is where the pope’s banquets were held, with the pope seated on a raised platform. Gold plates and ivory cutlery were used to devour mountains of food – detailed inventories record the consumption of 118 cows, 1,023 sheep, 60 pigs, 1,195 geese, 7,428 chickens & a total of 95,000 dishes; and all at one sitting.

A guided tour (in French only) through the ‘Secret Palace’, with a chance to see Saint Michel Chapel and rooms that are normally closed to the public, with a convivial supper is available daily from 1700 from November to May. It is best for visitors to make a trip to the Palais des Papes in the afternoon, when it is cooler and there are fewer tourists.

Place du Palais
Tel: (04) 9027 5000 (reservations). Fax: (04) 9027 5088.
E-mail: monument@palais-des-papes.com
Website: www.palais-des-papes.com
Transport: Bus to place de l’Horloge.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Mar-Jun and Oct); daily 0930-1745 (Nov-Feb); daily 0900-2100 (Jul – during the Avignon Festival); daily 0900-2000 (Aug-Sep).
Admission: ¬9.50; ¬11 (combined Palais des Papes and Pont St Bénezet ticket); ¬24.50 (Secret Palace tour, inclusive of meal); ¬31.50 (Secret Palace tour, Palais des Papes and Pont St Bénezet combined ticket); concessions available.

Musée du Petit Palais (Little Palace Museum)
Located on the northern end of place du Palais, the Little Palace Museum was built for Cardinal Béranger Frédol between 1318 and 1320. Following extensive alterations, Pope Benoît made it his episcopal headquarters. Today, its 19 rooms house an impressive collection of frescoes, sculptures and Italian religious paintings from the 13th to 16th centuries, including works by Botticelli, Carpaccio and Giovanni di Paolo. The Angel of the Annunciation, by Sano Di Pietro (1406-1481), is one of the most beautiful paintings – the golden-haired angel has all the beauty of a pre-Raphaelite woman.

Palais des Archevêques, place du Palais
Tel: (04) 9086 4458. Fax: (04) 9082 1872.
Transport: Bus to place de l’Horloge, place du Pie or post office.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0930-1300 and 1400-1730 (Oct-May); Wed-Mon 1000-1300 and 1400-1800 (Jun-Sep).
Admission: ¬6 (concessions available).

Pont St Bénezet (St Bénezet Bridge)
‘Sur le pont d’Avignon on y danse, on y danse &’ – the melody of the 19th-century song still draws visitors to the famed bridge that is formally known as the Pont St Bénezet, after the shepherd whose heavenly vision and determination led to the bridge being built. Spanning the two channels of the River Rhône and the island in between (Ile de la Barthelasse), the bridge was built between 1177 and January 1185. Originally made of wood, it had to be continuously rebuilt, as it was the only crossing, providing a link between the Mediterranean and Lyon, an important trade hub in the Middle Ages. The river finally won the day, washing away the bridge in the mid-1600s. Today, only four of its original 22 arches and the tiny Chapelle St Nicholas remain. This delicate Romanesque chapel, dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of barge men, should not be missed. A small museum, situated beneath the ticket office, offers images of the bridge in former centuries.

Rue Ferruce
Tel: (04) 9027 5116 or 9085 6016. Fax: (04) 9082 7402 or 9082 7402
E-mail: monument@palais-des-papes.com
Website: www.palais-des-papes.com/pont
Transport: Bus to place de l’Horloge or porte de l’Oulle.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Apr-Oct); daily 0930-1730 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: ¬3.50 (Pont Bénezet only), ¬11 (combined Pont St Bénezet and Palais des Papes ticket); concessions available.

Further Distractions

Rocher des Doms
Ramps from the Palais des Papes lead up past the Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms to the Rocher des Doms, the site of Avignon’s earliest settlement. The rocky area was landscaped into a pleasant plateau with an artificial rock garden in the 18th century. Nineteenth-century additions include a lake and the statues of prominent Provençal figures, such as writer Félix Gras and artists Paul Saïn and Paul Vaysan. Terraces were laid out in the 20th century, offering views onto the River Rhône, Pont St Bénézet, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and the Alpilles.

Rocher des Doms, above place du Palais
Transport: Bus to place de l’Horloge.
Opening hours: Daily, sunrise to sunset.
Admission: Free.

Musée Louis Vouland (Louis Vouland Museum)
Successful businessman and art collector Louis Vouland (1883-1973) bequeathed his 19th-century mansion to the state. His home was opened as a museum in 1982, offering a quirky collection of 17th and 18th-century decorative arts. Highlights include faïence (earthenware) from Vincennes and Sèvres, and tapestries woven in Flanders, Aubusson and Gobelins. However, a dainty travel tea set in Sèvres faïence, which belonged to the Comtesse du Barry, mistress of Louis XV, steals the show.

17 rue Victor Hugo
Tel: (04) 9086 0379. Fax: (04) 9085 1204.
E-mail: musee-vouland@avignon-et-provence.com
Website: www.vouland.com
Transport: Bus to rue de la République, post office or porte de l’Oulle.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1200 and 1400-1800, Sun 1400-1800 (May-Oct); Tues-Sun 1400-1800 (Nov-Apr).
Admission: ¬4 (concessions available).

Musée d'Art Contemporain (Contemporary Art Museum)
The Collection Lambert en Avignon, housed in the Musée d’Art Contemporain, is a unique ensemble of more than 350 contemporary artworks, which have been loaned by Yvon Lambert to the city of Avignon for 20 years. The collection is a unique testimony of the great art movements of our time: minimal art, conceptual art, land art from the 1960s to 1970s; painting from the 1980s; photography and video from the 1990s. The collection contains a most coherent ensemble of works by leading artists, including Cy Twombly, Sol LeWitt, Donald Judd, Niele Toroni, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Anselm Kiefer, Christian Boltansky, Nan Goldin or Douglas Gordon. Two to three temporary exhibitions are presented each year in conjunction with displays of artworks from the Collection Lambert.

5 rue Violette
Tel: (04) 9016 5620. Fax: (04) 9016 5621.
E-mail: collection.lambert@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.collectionlambert.com
Transport: Bus to Central Station, then a short walk.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1800 (Sep-Jun); Tues-Sun 1100-1900 (Jul-Aug).
Admission: ¬5.50 (concessions available).

Musee Calvet (Calvet Museum)
Housed in a splendid 18th-century mansion, the Musée Calvet displays a varied collection of paintings and sculptures from the 15th to the 20th century, ranging from the archaeological to Beaux Arts, from decorative to ethnic art.

16 rue Joseph Vernet
Tel: (04) 9086 3384. Fax: (04) 9014 6245.
E-mail: musee-calvet@wanadoo.fr
Transport: Any bus to the city centre.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1300 and 1400-1800.
Admission: ¬6.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Avignon Tourist Office (tel: (04) 3274 3274) organises two-hour guided tours in French and English, departing at 1000 on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday (April to October) and every Saturday at 1000 (November to March). Tours are based on a specific theme and cover the major city sights. Departing from the main tourist office, 41 cours Jean Jaurès, the tours cost ¬8 per person.

A wander along the picturesque pedestrianised streets and up to the Rocher des Doms or along the city’s ramparts is recommended as a good route for a self-guided tour of the city.

Bus Tours
Cars Lieutaud, cour de la Gare SNCF (tel: (04) 9086 3675; fax: (04) 9085 5707; e-mail: contact@cars-lieutaud.fr; website: www.cars-lieutaud.fr ), operates bus tours in Provence, which depart daily from Avignon Central Station, boulevard St Roch (April to October). Half-day tours (1000–1230 and 1400-1830), for Vaison-la-Romaine and Orange (Monday afternoon), Pont du Gard (Tuesday and Thursday morning), les Alpilles (Tuesday and Thursday afternoon), Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards (Wednesday morning) and the Luberon (Wednesday afternoon). Friday’s full-day trip (1000–1830) visits Nîmes, Arles and the Camargue. On Wednesday morning, there is a trip to a Provençal market, at Saint Rémy de Provence. Morning trips are ¬15, afternoon trips ¬19 and day trips ¬28. Private tours with an English-speaking driver can also be arranged, with hotel pick-up available. These tours range in price from ¬210 to ¬405.

Visit Provence (tel: (04) 9014 7000; e-mail: self.voyages@wanadoo.fr; website: www.self-voyages.fr ) offers excellent value tours in air-conditioned minibuses. Itineraries include half-day tours to Pont du Gard (Tuesday morning), Saint Rémy, Les Baux and Pont du Gard (Tuesday afternoon, Thursday and Saturday afternoons), Les Baux and Arles (Monday and Friday afternoons), the Luberon (Tuesday and Thursday afternoons), Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine tour (Monday and Thursday mornings), Orange and Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Friday mornings). A full-day tour includes Avignon, Les Baux, Luberon and wine tasting (Wednesday and Saturday). Half-day tours cost ¬50 and full day tours cost ¬100 (prices include an English-speaking driver, hotel pick-up and drop-off, and entrance fees where applicable).

Boat Tours
Les Grands Bateaux de Provence (tel: (04) 9085 6225; fax: (04) 9085 6114; e-mail: bateaugbp@aol.com; website: www.avignon-et-provence.com/mireio ) runs six times per day in July and August, with a reduced service in May, June and September, between Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. A return journey takes one hour and 15 minutes. The first boat departs from Avignon at 1030 and the last day boat returns from Villeneuve-lès-Avignon at 1830. The return journey costs ¬7 (concessions are available). Tickets are for sale at the Allées de l’Oulle landing stage, tourist offices, Pont St Bénezet or on board.

In addition, frequent boats run from the Pont St Bénezet to the Ile de la Barthelasse. This swift, five-minute ferry service is free and crosses every day 1000-2000 (July and August), and 1400-1800 (from September). Visitors can take a bicycle and ride around the paths or just stroll, for magnificent views over the Palais des Papes and city ramparts.

Train Tours
Les Trains Touristiques d’Avignon (tel: (06) 1135 0666; fax: (04) 9082 7940; website: www.ot-avignon.fr ) operates tourist trains that chug around the Old Town (journey time – 35 minutes). Departing from the place du Palais, a trip costs ¬6 to the Old Town and ¬2 to the Rocher des Doms. Trains depart every 35 minutes, daily 1000-1900, from 15 March to 15 October (from 1330 to the Rocher des Doms only).

Excursions

For a Half Day
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: The Pont St Bénezet stops enticingly short of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, situated on the west bank of the River Rhône, allowing only a view onto the impressive fortifications of the Fort St André, built on the rocky outcrop of the Mont Andaon, in the 14th century. This ‘ville neuve’ (new town) allowed the King of France to keep an eye on the city of the popes across the river – although many popes and cardinals could not resist its charm, building their luxurious residences (known as livrées) on the site. The Musée Pierre de Luxembourg still displays the wealth of the cardinal, its previous owner. A 15-minute bus ride (on line 11) links Avignon (the Old Town) with its New Town, stopping near the tourist office, 1 place Charles David (tel: (04) 9025 6133). The key attraction is close by – the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction. Founded by Pope Innocent VI, in 1356, this was once the largest and most important Carthusian monastery in France.

For a Whole Day
Gordes: The Provençal village of Gordes lies atop the Vaucluse Plateau, overlooking the Sorgue and Calavon rivers. Artists’ galleries, restaurants and hotels line the sloping streets, leading up to a château built between the 11th and 16th centuries. The Gordes Tourist Office (tel: (04) 9072 0275) is located just below, in the Salle des Gardes (Guards’ Hall). The easiest way for one to reach Gordes is by road (south on the N7 from Avignon, turning onto the D2 at Cavaillon), although the village is accessible by bus from the tranquil town of Cavaillon (buses run from Avignon to Cavaillon). It is worth exploring the whole area – just four kilometres (two and a half miles) southwest (off the D2) are the curious beehive-like Bories, first built in the Bronze Age but occupied continuously until the 18th century. To the north lies the 12th-century Cistercian Abbaye de Sénanque, a functioning monastery surrounded by fields of lavender.

Vaison-la-Romaine: For a memorable day out, visitors to Avignon should hire a car and visit Vaison-la-Romaine, a two-tier town with a spectacular history – and an outstanding Tuesday market. The town is located some 40km (25 miles) north of Avignon and the best route is for drivers to head northwards on the N7, as if heading for Orange, but then cut across country, using the D977 from Joncquières. From Vaison, adventurous drivers can head for Malaucène, a further 10 kilometres (six miles) south of Vaison, and drive over the summit of Mont Ventoux (although this should not be attempted in conditions of poor visibility). There is a good if rather serpentine road all the way. The route back to Avignon, along the D938, takes in Bedouin and Carpentras (famed for its truffle markets between November and March). A more sedate excursion visits the charming Provençal village of Crestet, a hilltop settlement with a fabulous view, or Séguret, famed for its santons (clay figurines), Sablet, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, all renowned for their wine, as is Beaumes de Venise. A return through Carpentras is possible this way too. Vaison-la-Romaine Tourism (tel: (04) 9036 0211; e-mail: tourisme@vaison-la-romaine.com; website: www.vaison-la-romaine.com ) can provide further information.

Sport

For football fans, Avignon’s glory days are gone. Twenty years ago, Olympique Avignonnais used to hit first and second league status but no longer. However, this does not stop enthusiastic fans attending local matches at the city’s largest stadium, Le Parc des Sports, avenue Pierre de Courbertin (tel: (04) 9087 3202). Rugby is also popular and is played at the Baizet Stadium, route de Tarascon (tel: (04) 9087 5649). Tickets are available for purchase at the grounds.

One of the most popular sporting activities in Avignon is roller skating, with skating within the city ramparts taking place every last Friday of the month –departing 0830 from the main post office, cours Kennedy. Participation is free and the skate lasts around two hours. Key sporting events include the Avignon Roll’air roller skating festival in May/June and theTriathlon in June.

The Service des Sports, 74 boulevard Jules Ferry (tel: (04) 9016 3100) can provide information on swimming pools and sports facilties in the city.

Fitness Centres: Saint Didier Fitness Club, place Saint Didier (tel: (04) 9066 1708), is located in the heart of Avignon.

Golf: Membership is not required at Pradier Golf Grand Avignon, Les Chênes Verts, Vedène (tel: (04) 9031 4994; fax: (04) 9031 0121). Daily green fees are charged at ¬38 weekdays and ¬46 weekends. Visiting golfers can also play at Golf de Chateaublanc, rue de Chateaublanc, Morières (tel: (04) 9033 3908; fax: (04) 9033 4324), at similar rates.

Squash: Avignon Squash Racket, 32 boulevard Limbert (tel: (04) 9085 2778), charges ¬6.50 for 40 minutes of play or ¬54 for 11 40-minute games. Racket and ball hire costs ¬2.50.

Swimming: The municipal pool is situated on route de Marseille (tel: (04) 9087 0090) and is open during the summer only. There is also an Olympic pool at Iles de la Barthelasse (tel: (04) 9082 5425). The tourist office provides a complete list of the city’s swimming pools.

Tennis: Tennis Club d’Avignon, chemin des Frères Reboul, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon (tel: (04) 9025 4359), hires out its six outdoor and three indoor courts to non-members, for ¬8 per person per hour.

Shopping

The main shopping street is rue de la République, which is home to Monoprix department store, FNAC and others. Chic boutiques line rue Joseph-Vernet, which runs east off rue de la République, opposite the main tourist office. Rue St Agricol is lined with various little boutiques, including designer outlets Christian Lacroix Boutique, 10 rue St Agricol, and Donna, 35 rue St Agricol. The pedestrianised area (rue des Fourbisseurs, rue des Marchands, rue du Vieux Sextier and rue de la Bonneterie) allows for a leisurely, traffic-free shopping experience.

Avignon is an ideal town for buying presents. Provençal specialities include olive oil, lavender, brightly printed fabrics, sugared fruits, chocolate and fig or melon jam. Lovers of the mustard yellow and olive green of Provençal pottery will be spoilt for choice at Terre et Art, 29 rue des Fourbisseurs, or Terre et Provence, 26 rue de la République. A good selection of regional wines can be found at La Cave du Bouffart, 14 rue des Fourbisseurs, and Le Coin Gourmand, Les Halles d’Avignon, place Pie. The latter also boasts a range of gastronomic specialities. For a souvenir in silver or gold, shoppers should head for Vincent Joaillier, 12 place du Change, a jewellery design shop founded in 1897.

In addition to the Tuesday to Sunday morning covered market at Les Halles, south of place Pie, there are colourful outdoor markets at the Rempart St Michel (a food market on Saturday and Sunday) and place des Carmes (a flower market on Saturday and flea market on Sunday).

Department stores are open Monday to Saturday 0900-1900, while smaller shops close 1200-1400 and Monday morning. Sales tax varies between 5.5% (food) to 20% (luxury goods). Visitors from outside the European Union can claim a tax refund upon departure for each purchase over ¬175. Global Refund (tel: (01) 4161 5151; fax: (01) 4834 6020; e-mail: taxfree@fr.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com ) can provide further information.

Culture

Avignon’s cultural scene hits the headlines each July, with the Avignon Festival, created by Jean Vilar in 1947. It is the oldest and most famous of the festivals in France. Originally pure theatre, the event now includes contemporary and religious music, dance, poetry, circus, films, exhibitions and debates involving up to 600 separate organisations. The most prestigious productions are performed in the vast Palais des Papes courtyard, others within theatres, churches and sports halls. The Chartreuse, at Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, showcases the contemporary theatre of the Avignon Festival, as well as a separate musical theatre festival, Villeneuve en Scène. The programme for 2003 included a performance of Romeo and Juliet in the cour du lycée Saint-Joseph, ‘equestrian theatre’ in the parc des Expositions-Chateaublanc, as well as author readings in the cours du Musée Calvet.

The Bureau du Festival d’Avignon (and box office) is located at the Espace Saint-Louis, 20 rue du Portail Boquier (tel: (04) 9014 1460; website: www.festival-avignon.com). Alongside the official festival (locally known as the ‘In’), the ‘Off’ fringe festival enlivens city streets and courtyards with a carnival atmosphere. The ‘In’ programme is available on the website from March, or from the Bureau du Festival d’Avignon or the Avignon Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) as of the second week in May. Tickets (priced at ¬10-40) are available by telephone (tel: (04) 9014 1414) or on the website, from June onwards. The ‘Off’ programme is published in mid-June (when booking commences) by Paris-based Avignon Public Off (tel: (01) 4805 0119; fax: (01) 4805 4067; e-mail: festoff@wanadoo.fr; website: www.avignon-off.org). During the festival, the headquarters are within the Conservatoire de Musique, 9 Place du Palais des Papes (tel: (04) 9082 1537; fax: (04) 9086 4063).

Tickets to all other performances and cultural events in the city are available for purchase from the individual venue box offices, in advance or on the day. The tourist office publishes a monthly calendar of events (French only) in Rendez-Vouz.

Music: The gracious Opéra d’Avignon (tel: (04) 9082 8140), built in 1847, overlooks place de l’Horloge. The season runs from October to June and includes operas, operettas and symphonic and chamber music concerts, as well as theatre and ballet. The Musique Sacrée en Avignon, 49 rue Portail Magnanen (tel: (04) 9082 2175), organises free concerts in churches (October to May).

Theatre: Avignon has about 10 permanent theatres, as well as the opera house (see above). The Théâtre du Chêne Noir, 8 rue Ste-Catherine (tel: (04) 9086 5811), draws well-known actors and directors, while the Théâtre du Chien qui Fume, 75 rue des Teinturiers (tel: (04) 9085 2587), puts on a varied programme of theatre, music and improvisation evenings. The Théâtre des Halles, 4 rue Noël Biret (tel: (04) 9085 5257), excels in contemporary theatre, while cutting-edge Théâtre des Carmes, 6 place des Carmes (tel: (04) 9082 2047), is run by the André Benedetto company – one of the founders of the Festival ‘Off’. Theatre tickets tend to be cheaper than the Festival ‘On’ and the season runs from October to May.

Dance: Dance has its own moment of glory in February, when Les Hivernales contemporary dance festival takes place at La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne (tel: (04) 9082 3312; website: www.hivernales.asso.fr ). The Théâtre de la Danse, 1 rue Ste Catherine (tel: (04) 9086 0127) offers courses and performances year round.

Film: Avignon has about 20 cinemas. Cinéma Utopia, at La Manutention arts centre, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne (tel: (04) 9082 6536), shows undubbed arthouse films. Utopia has another cinema located at 5 rue Figuière, north of place St Didier, where dubbed films creep into the screenings. Utopia also produces La Gazette Utopia, a free monthly listings magazine. Cinema Vox, 22 place de l’Horloge (tel: (04) 9082 0361), offers mainstream films, with the odd arthouse film – some in the original language. One of Avignon’s largest cinemas is the 10-screen Pathé Cap Sud, 175 rue Pierre Sémard, route de Marseille (tel: (08) 3668 2288).

Cultural Events: Without doubt, Avignon’s key cultural event is the Avignon Festival in July (see above). However, another cultural highlight is the Avignon Film Festival, which takes place every June and is a showcase for independent filmmakers from America, France and Europe.

Literary Notes: Petrarch (1304-1374) brought the theme of idealised love to Avignon, where he first set enchanted eyes on Laure, in 1327. This earthly incarnation of perfection inspired the Canzoniere – over 300 poems, mainly sonnets, on the subject of platonic love. Not withstanding the fated meeting, Petrarch detested Avignon, which he famously described as ‘a sewer where all the filth of the universe has gathered.’

Frédéric Mistral (born in 1830, between Arles and Avignon) drew on the troubadour tradition with his love poetry, Mireille (1859), about star-crossed lovers. Written in both Provençal and French, the tragic tale won Mistral a Nobel Prize and revived the dying Provençal language. Together with Avignon-born Theodore Aubanel, he founded the Felibrige movement and helped revive Provençal tradition. Avignon-born writer Pierre Boulle (1912–1994) won international renown with Planet of the Apes (1963) and Bridge Across the River Kwai (1952), both later made into films. English-language writers have painted a mythical picture of Provence as a sun-drenched idyll – most famously in Peter Mayle’s bestselling A Year in Provence (1989).

Nightlife

The lively nightspots are situated around place de l’Horloge, place du Palais, trendy rue Carnot and place des Corps-Saints and all become frenetic during the Avignon Festival. Licensing hours are not strict in France and bars stay open quite late, some past midnight, while some clubs are open well into the small hours. The legal drinking age in France is 16 years and the average price of drink while out and about in Avignon is ¬4. Dress codes and admission requirements to clubs are not an issue in Avignon, where smart-casual rules the day.

The Avignon Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) distributes the free monthly arts, events and music listings magazine, Rendez-Vous d’Avignon (also available in arts centres). This is well worth getting, as it provides up-to-the-minute information about what is on in Avignon.

Bars: Bars with a buzz include Pub Z, 58 rue de la Bonneterie. Open until 0130, the bar is owned by a rocker, enamoured of zebras, which dominate the decor. A medley of arty types hang out amid the mirror-lined walls and modern sculptures of Le Grand Café, located at cultural hub La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne, where decent food is served. Esclave Bar, 12 rue du Limas, is a popular gay bar and disco.

Casinos: There are no casinos in Avignon.

Clubs: Avignon is not a clubbing centre, although there are some small venues, such as the eclectic Red Zone, 25 rue Carnot, which plays anything from salsa to house and is open 1900-0300. Bokao’s, 9 bis, boulevard Quai Saint Lazare, has a chill-out café as well as dancefloor and VIP area. The biggest clubs are located approximately a 10-minute drive from Avignon and include Le Privé Club, route de Tavel in Les Angles, a techno and house venue in an old quarry.

Live Music: AJMI Jazz Club at La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne, is a popular jazz venue on Thursday night. Rock is played at Le Bistroquet bar, Quartier du Mouton, on Ile de la Barthelasse, while regular concerts are held at Les Passagers du Zinc, 23 route de Montfavet.

City Statistics

Location: Department of the Vaucluse, Provence region, southern France.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 88,312 (city); 137,852 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: Mainly French, with some Spanish, Portuguese, Algerian, Moroccan and Tunisian.
Religion: Catholic majority, with prominent Protestant and Jewish communities.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 6°C (43°F).
Average July temp: 25°C (77°F).
Annual rainfall: 700mm (27.6 inches).

Special Events

Tour des Remparts, race, Jan, ramparts
Cheval Passion, horse show, Jan, Avignon Exhibition Park
Salon des Antiquaires, antiques fair, Feb, place Xavier Battini, L’Ile-sur-la-Sorgue
Les Oléades, olive tree festival with exhibitions, cooking demonstration and debates, Feb, Palais des Papes
Les Hivernales d’Avignon, festival of contemporary dance, Feb-Mar, city centre
Foire de Printemps (Spring Fair), exhibitions and tastings of French gastronomy, home and garden show, Apr–May, Avignon Foire et Expos du Grand Delta
Fête Nationale de la Musique, music festival, Jun, throughout the city
Avignon Film Festival, independent French-American cinema festival, last week in Jun, French American Center, 10 Montée de la Tour, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon
Triathlon d’Avignon, Jun, various venues
Festival d’Avignon, three-week dance, music and theatre festival, Jul, various venues
Festival Off, three-week arts fringe festival, Jul, various venues
Festival Provençal, Provençal music and theatre, Jul, various venues
Marché du Festival, festival market, Jul, Allées de l’Oulle
Marché aux Livres, second-hand book and records market, Jul, cours Jean Jaurès
Fête Nationale, national festival celebrated with fireworks, 14 Jul, on the banks of the Rhône and in the city centre
Tremplin Jazz, Jul-Aug, Cloître des Carmes and Palais des Papes courtyard
Fête des Foins (Hay Festival), traditional festival to celebrate the end of summer with the gathering of the last bale of hay, followed by street parties, craft exhibitions and music, late Aug-early Sep, Montfavet, five kilometres (three miles) from Avignon city centre
Ban des Vendanges (Harvest Banns), wine and gastronomy celebration, Sep, on the banks of the Rhône
Le 10km de la Cité des Papes, 10-kilometre (6-mile) race, first Sun in Sep, circular race from the Palais des Papes
Journées du Patrimoine, free entry to monuments and museums, Sep, throughout the city
Festival de Musique Ancienne, medieval music festival, first fortnight in Oct, various locations
Fête des Côtes du Rhône Primeurs and Les Médiévales d’Avignon, wine festival, costumed procession, medieval music and craft market on the third Thurs of Nov, place du Palais du Papes, procession through the city centre
Foire de la St André, traditional fair, late Nov–early Dec, historical centre
Marché de Noël (Christmas Market), three weeks in Dec, in front of the town hall

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.80
33cl bottle of beer: ¬1.45
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.40
36-exposure colour film: ¬6
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.20
Adult football ticket: ¬15-¬25
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¬25

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005