World City Guide

With its reputation focused on the water, Baltimore (the largest city, although not the capital of Maryland) is a microcosm of the history of the USA’s eastern seaboard. Named after the second Lord Baltimore, George Calvert, the city was founded in 1729 and now calls itself ‘Charm City’, referring to its citizens’ concern for and appreciation of the quality of urban life. Its position on the Patapsco River, at the top of the northwestern fork of the Chesapeake Bay, Baltimore gives direct access to the Atlantic Ocean. In the early days of European settlement, Baltimore was the westernmost ocean-going harbour. Grist mills prospered on the rivers flowing into the Bay, ensuring that industry and shipping were soon established. On September 13, 1814, during the successful Battle of Baltimore against the British, Frances Scott Key penned what became the USA’s national anthem, ‘The Star Spangled Banner.’

The Inner Harbor area is representative of the city’s forward-looking attitude. Once the place where the Baltimore clippers (fast two-mast schooners) were built, the area now successfully combines business, shopping, hotels, restaurants and sightseeing. Its efficient water taxi service provides a good way to view the city’s impressive seafront skyline. Ongoing redevelopment further improves the area and, though the onslaught of Hurricane Isabel in 2003 did a great deal of damage to the harbour and the Fells-Point neighbourhood, all is now in working order. The harbour combined with general financial, banking, medical/health-care and tourism-related industries, contributes to Baltimore’s vibrant economy.

West Side redevelopment includes the city centre and the thriving Lexington Market. Established in 1782, the market still houses over 140 merchants. Historic districts that once would have been decaying inner-city areas, such as Fells-Point and Federal Hill, now are bustling communities, home to the businesspeople who work in the nearby downtown areas. Mount Vernon and Little Italy also retain the atmosphere of a large village.

There is a vitality to the city, stretching out from the campuses of the University of Maryland near the Downtown and Johns Hopkins University to the north. Johns Hopkins, who in the 19th century, rose from a humble greengrocer to a wealthy philanthropist, embodies Baltimore’s work ethic and the American dream. The city was the birthplace of both legendary baseball player George Herman ‘Babe’ Ruth and literary critic H L Mencken. Writer Edgar Allan Poe and singer Billie Holiday have also left their mark, as has British Royalty. Wallis Warfield, the double divorcee, who married King Edward VIII, causing his abdication, lived for many years in the Mount Vernon district of Baltimore.

Baltimore is a city with distinct seasons – warm summers, sometimes snowy, cold winters and moderate temperatures in-between. Residents are not only proud of its heritage but also confident of the future, preferring to shape the inevitable changes rather than be subject to them. Nonetheless, one thing has never changed – it is considered almost a crime for one to leave the city without tasting Baltimore’s speciality, Maryland crabs.

Getting There By Air

Baltimore/Washington International Airport (BWI)
Tel: (800) 435 9294 or (410) 859 7111.
Website: www.bwiairport.com

Baltimore/Washington International is located 16km (10 miles) south of Baltimore, off Route 295, 48km (30 miles) northeast of Washington, DC. It is Maryland’s busiest airport, with around 19.7 million passengers annually using the airport.

Approximate flight times to Baltimore: From London is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 1 hour; from Los Angeles is 5 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 1 hour 40 minutes; from Chicago is 1 hour 50 minutes and from Sydney is 24 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a wide range of restaurants, bars, shopping and duty-free, as well as postal services, ATMs and bureaux de change. There is a 24-hour disabled request help service. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Business facilities are also available.

Transport to the city: BWI Super Shuttle minibus service (tel: (800) 258 3826, website: www.supershuttle.com) and The Airport Shuttle (tel: (410) 381 2772 or (800) 776 0323; website: www.theairportshuttle.com), go to Downtown hotels every 30 minutes 0600-2300 (journey time – 30 minutes) and also can be pre-booked for other journeys. Some hotels have their own complimentary shuttle service. A MARC (tel: (866) 743 3682; website: www.mtamaryland.com) train goes to Penn station (journey time – 30 minutes), weekdays 0700-2200. Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) also provides a daily service to Penn station in Baltimore but services can be irregular. There is a continuous, free shuttle bus between the airport and the BWI train station (journey time – less than 10 minutes). Taxis and limousines are available at the airport. BWI Airport Taxis (tel: (410) 859 1100; website: www.bwiairporttaxi.com) specifically meet arrivals. The trip Downtown takes about 20 minutes.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

The motorway (interstate and freeway) network in America is very good. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north–south and the even numbers go east–west over the whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different. Interstate roads are designated by the letter ‘I’ and a corresponding number.

Driving is on the right. The speed limits on the different motorways can vary. The general maximum is 90kph (55mph), with some spots in and around Baltimore being 105kph (65mph). Speed limits in residential areas can be as slow as 30kph (20mph), with specifically posted limits near schools. It is illegal to pass a yellow ‘School Bus’ when it is stationary with its lights flashing. Seatbelts are obligatory for front-seat passengers. Prosecution for drink-driving is severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%.

The legal driving age in Baltimore is 16 years. A British driving licence is valid, although a temporary International Driving Permit is also a good idea. Third party insurance is mandatory, although it is highly recommended for driving visitors to ensure that they have adequate travel medical insurance, as the cost of medical treatment in the USA is huge.

Petrol (‘gas’) is about three times cheaper in the US than it is in Europe. Many ‘gas stations’ situated on main roads are open 24 hours a day and operate a pre-pay system at the pumps using a credit card – otherwise, it is necessary for drivers to make themselves known to the cashier.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 763 9900; website: www.aaamidatlantic.com) provides emergency service and information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357

Routes to the city: All the major routes approaching Baltimore meet the I-695, called the Baltimore Beltway, which circles the city. The Jones Falls Expressway (the I-83) winds right into the central Inner Harbor district, from the north and Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. The I-395 comes in from the southeast, with good access to Downtown Baltimore and to the Port of Baltimore. The Baltimore National Pike road (US Route 40) comes in from the west, from Frederick. The I-95 comes from the northwest, Philadelphia and beyond that, from New York. The I-95 continues southwest toward Washington, DC, running parallel to the Baltimore-Washington Parkway. The I-97 leads in from the south as the main route linking Baltimore to Annapolis. The I-895, the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel Thruway, bypasses Downtown.

Tolls operate at the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel (I-895), at the Fort McHenry Tunnel (I-95) and both north- and southbound at the Francis Scott Key Bridge (part of the Baltimore Beltway). There are also tolls northbound on the John F Kennedy Memorial Highway (part of I-95).

Approximate driving times to Baltimore: From Washington, DC – 45 to 60 minutes; Philadelphia – 2 hours; Harrisburg – 1 hour 30 minutes; New York – 4 hours.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates frequent coach services, connecting Baltimore with all major US and Canadian cities. The main bus station, Downtown Baltimore Terminal, 210 West Fayette Street (tel: (410) 752 7682), is situated in quite a run-down area, although it is busy during the day. There is a second, less frequented station point at the Baltimore Travel Plaza, Best Western Hotel, 5625 O’Donnell Street (tel: (410) 633 6389).

Getting There By Rail

Penn Station, 1500 North Charles Street (tel: (410) 291 4261), is located in the Mount Vernon district. Both the local provider, Maryland Area Rail Commuter – MARC (tel: (866) 743 3682; website: www.mtamaryland.com), and the national provider, Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com), use this station. Facilities at Penn station include restaurants, ATMs, a postal vending machine, waiting room, baggage checking, porter service, full disabled access and car hire from Thrifty. The standard of service on both MARC and Amtrak is good, with modern networks and comfortable conditions. There is no integrated national enquiries hotline and travellers with enquiries should contact the separate service providers or the relevant route/destination station.

Rail services: Baltimore is situated along the northeastern Amtrak corridor, which goes from Washington, DC to Boston via Philadelphia and New York. Other destinations are Orlando (journey time – approximately 20 hours) and Miami (journey time – approximately 24 hours) in Florida, New Orleans (journey time – 38 hours) in Louisiana and Raleigh (journey time – 7 hours) in North Carolina. MARC trains head north to Perryville and south to Washington DC (journey time – 35 minutes), from where there are MARC connections on the Brunswick line to destinations in West Virginia (journey time – 1 hour 20 minutes).

Getting Around

Public Transport
Maryland Mass Transit Administration (MTA), 6 St Paul Street (tel: (410) 539 5000; website: www.mtamaryland.com), operates a Light Rail system, the Metro Subway, local buses and the commuter railway MARC (Maryland Area Rail Commuter between Baltimore and Washington, DC).

The Light Rail connects the centre to the northern and southern suburbs, running parallel in the Downtown areas to Howard Street, with convenient stops for the plush Mount Vernon district, Lexington Market area, and the cultural area around Cathedral Street and Oriole Park.

The Metro Subway is clean and fast but has limited stops. It runs from the northwest of the city and then west to east across Downtown. The Lexington Market and Charles Center stations are within walking distance of the Inner Harbor area.

Buses are frequent and an easy means of getting around the city for sightseeing, although visiting several points might involve many bus changes.

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the street, found from taxi ranks and booked by telephone. They are particularly convenient for accessing specific locations in the Downtown area, where driving a car would be very frustrating. Yellow Cab (tel: (410) 685 1213) and Atwater Cab (tel: (410) 682 2100) are two of the main operators. Taxis (‘cabs’) are metered. Hotel staff and taxi drivers will be able to provide a fairly accurate idea of current fares to main tourist destinations. Tipping of approximately 15% is generally expected.

Water Taxis
Baltimore’s water taxi service provides an excellent and cheap way for visitors to see the whole Inner Harbor area, as well as other districts such as Little Italy, Fells Point and Federal Hill. The service is operated by Harbor Boating (tel: (410) 563 3901 or (800) 658 8947; website: www.thewatertaxi.com). It is more like a bus service than a taxi service, as there are several different routes, serving 35 attractions and various key districts. In summer, the water taxis also go out to Fort McHenry National Monument.

Driving in the City
Driving is not recommended in the Downtown area, not only because of the busy one-way streets but also because of the cost and difficulty of parking. There is some street parking with meters, which take a combination of small change, although ‘quarters’ (25 cents) are the most useful. The time available per quarter decreases as the streets become closer to the central area. Tourists will mostly be visiting these central districts, around the Inner Harbor area, which can be achieved without a car. Nevertheless, a car can be of use for out-of-the-way and out-of-town attractions.

At traffic lights, it is possible to turn right, even if the light is actually on red, providing that there is no approaching traffic and no signs that specifically prohibit this. Pedestrians crossing have the right of way, however. At a junction, a flashing amber light means 'be prepared to stop.' A flashing red means ‘stop’ and proceed on a first-come, first-go basis. Crossroads with no lights also work on a first-come, first-go basis.

Car Hire
A foreign driving licence, provided it is in English, is valid in Baltimore, although an International Driving Permit is also a good idea, as this carries a photograph. Insurance will be part of the hire arrangement, although drivers should check what this entails. There is a minimum driving age ranging from 21 to 25.

Referred to as ‘car rental’, most of the major companies are available in Baltimore. These include Alamo (tel: (410) 850 0199 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (410) 859 1680 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (410) 276 7266 or (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: (410) 850 7400 or (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: (410) 859 8860 or (800) 328 4567; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: (410) 850 7139 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com).

Bicycle Hire
Light Street Cycles, 1015 Light Street (tel: (410) 685 2234) hires out bicycles, but the facility is not open on Sunday. Children’s bicycles are also available, as are accessory items, such as child trailers, vehicle racks and cycle luggage racks. Information on the many other bicycle hire outlets is published online (website: www.localeplaza.com).

Business

Business Etiquette
Americans can be less formal than Europeans (both in dress and manners) but normal business courtesies should still be observed. The degree of formality often reflects the nature of the business – banking and legal professions will be more formal than computer and media companies. Americans will quickly use first names, although both men and women may still be wearing suits. Short-sleeved shirts are acceptable in summer. Business cards are commonly exchanged at meetings. As a visitor, there is nothing wrong in being as formal as in Europe, then relaxing once the attitudes of the host have been established.

Punctuality for business meetings is expected and time should always be allowed for traffic delays. Business hours are from 0800/0830 to 1700. Working late is, however, common. Nor is it unusual for people to be working well into the night or over the weekend. Working lunches are more common than working breakfasts and may be anything from a sandwich and coffee to a more serious, although not prolonged, restaurant meal.

Socially, Americans are individualistic but meeting for drinks or dinner after work on a Friday is a popular end to the working week. As a guest, not over-indulging in alcohol is always a good idea. Evening dinner invitations might be to the home or to a restaurant. Visitors should bring a bottle of wine to the home or offer to share part of the bill in a restaurant. E-mail is the favourite means of communication.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Much of Baltimore’s sightseeing centres on the revitalised harbour front and the adjacent districts of Federal Hill, Mount Vernon, Little Italy and Fells Point (clockwise from the south side of the Inner Harbor). The harbour is still very much a working, ocean-going port, which adds to the interest. Viewing it as a whole from the water taxi service is by far the best introduction for visitors. This not only gives a sense of how the city fits together but also provides one of the most fantastic views of the seafront skyline from the traditional point of entry, the Patapsko River. This view is particularly eye-catching when illuminated at dusk.

Baltimore has relied on transport (water, rail and road) for much of its prosperity. As a result of the subsequent movements of people and goods, the city has museums and centres recalling immigration, war, science and the development of the interior agricultural hinterland. There is a healthy respect for and interest in nature, with marine life centres in the harbour area and hiking trails beyond the city. On Druid Hill, in the north of the city, the Maryland Zoo has a highly praised children’s section, not far from the John Hopkins University. A useful landmark across the square in Mount Vernon is the Washington Monument, a massive obelisk with far-reaching views from its pinnacle. On the harbour front itself, great views are to be had from the Top of the World Observation Level, situated on the 27th floor of the World Trade Center, the world’s tallest pentagonal building.

Tourist Information
Baltimore Area Convention & Visitors Centre
401 Light Street
Tel: (877) BALTIMORE (225846673)
Website: www.baltimore.org
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.

Passes
The Harbor Pass (US$46), available at the Visitor Center, provides admissions for the National Aquarium in Baltimore, Maryland Science, Port Discovery, Top of the World Observation, an Ed Kane's Water Taxi one-day pass, plus discounts on hotels, dining, shopping and various other attractions. The Seaport Pass (US$17) includes USS Constellation Museum, the Baltimore Maritime Museum and a one-day Seaport Taxi pass. Many attractions also offer free admission on the first Thursday of each month.

Key Attractions

Harborplace
Overlooking the water, shops, restaurants, boats and architecture, Harborplace and The Gallery are the starting point for tourists and tours. There are water excursions on diverse craft such as a Clipper ship, a paddle steamer, a schooner and an oyster boat or water taxi. The open-air Harborplace Amphitheatre is a site of summer festivals and street performers and the Gallery has a stunning six-storey atrium looking out over the water. They are linked together with a promenade. A waterfront path leads to other worthwhile sites like the World Trade Center, the National Aquarium in Baltimore and the Baltimore Maritime Museum.

Inner Harbor, 200 East Pratt Street
Tel: (410) 332 4191.
Website: www.harborplace.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-2100, Sun 1100-1900.
Free admission.

National Aquarium
The National Aquarium is the place to marvel at marine, freshwater creature and other denizens like poison dart frogs, puffins and conehead lizards. An indoor ‘Amazon Rainforest’ is home to 75 species, including the dwarf caiman. Next door, at the Marine Mammal Pavilion, Atlantic bottlenose dolphins leave the crowd open-mouthed and smiling with their live antics. A unique Animal Planet Australia: Wild Extremes will open in 2005. The aquarium often gets very busy so advance tickets are recommended. They can purchased up to 30 days in advance from the Aquarium or from Ticketmaster (tel: (410) 481 7328 or (800) 551 7328; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Pier 3, Inner Harbor, 501 East Pratt Street
Tel: (410) 576 3800.
Website: www.aqua.org
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 0900-1800, Fri-Sun 0900-2000 (Jul-Aug); Sat-Thurs 0900-1700, Fri 0900-2000 (Mar-Jun and Sep-Oct); Sat-Thurs 1000-1700, Fri 1000-2000 (Nov-Feb); visits continue for two hours after the ‘closing’ time.
Admission charge.

National Historic Seaport
The National Historic Seaport (Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine, the Baltimore Museum of Industry, the USS Constellation, a 150 year-old all-sail US Navy war ship, and the Baltimore Maritime Museum) underscores the importance of the historical significance of ships and water. Unlike the average museum, the Baltimore Maritime Museum is a combination of the 1833 Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse and three historic ships – Coast Guard Cutter Taney (a survivor of Pearl Harbor), WW II submarine Torsk, and lightship Chesapeake. The surrounding historic neighbourhoods of Federal Hill, Canton and Fells Point are also worth a visit.

Inner Harbor, 802 South Caroline Street
Tel: (410) 783 1490.
Website: www.natlhistoricseaport.org

Baltimore Maritime Museum
Inner Harbor, 802 South Caroline Street
Tel: (410) 396 3453.
Website: www.baltomaritimemuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730, (summer, spring and autumn); Fri-Sun 1000-1700 (winter).
Admission charge.

USS Constellation
Pier One, 301 East Pratt Street
Tel: (410) 539 1797.
Website: www.constellation.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (1 May-14 Oct); daily 1000-1600 (15 Oct-30 Apr).
Admission charge.

Baltimore Museum of Industry
1415 Key Highway
Tel: (410) 727 4808.
Website: www.thebmi.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1100-1600.
Admission charge.

Maryland Science Center
The Maryland Science Center’s recent expansion has doubled the centre’s size, making it even more kid-friendly and fun. Permanent exhibits include: Dinosaur Mysteries which gives a close-up view of the prehistoric monsters; Terra Linka, the site for getting the latest Earth science news; the interactive Newton’s Alley; Your Body: The Inside Story, where you can learn about daily goings on; BodyLink, for performing experiments; and Follow the Blue Crab, to eavesdrop on the happenings of the Chesapeake Bay. The centre also contains numerous travelling exhibitions, an IMAX cinema and a Planetarium, which features images from the Hubble space telescope.

601 Light Street
Tel: (410) 685 5225.
Website: www.mdsci.org
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1100-1700.
Admission charge.

Fort McHenry National Monument
and Historic Shrine
During the Battle of Baltimore, this star-shaped fort, built in 1803, was valiantly defended against the British and inspired Frances Scott Key to pen the words of the US national anthem. The monument and grounds cover 17 hectares (43 acres). Military ceremonies and drills are performed during the summer. Exhibits not only include historical and military artefacts but also an electric battle map and exhibits in the Commander’s Quarters, Guard House, Powder Magazine and the Enlisted Men’s Quarters. The Visitors Center has a 16-minute historical film, The Defense of Fort McHenry, as well as other interesting exhibits.

East Fort Avenue
Tel: (410) 675 2900 or 962 4290.
Website: www.nps.gov/fomc
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (Sep-May); daily 0800-2000 (Jun-Aug).
Admission charge.

Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum
More than half a century after his death, the baseball legend George Herman ‘Babe’ Ruth, continues. With plenty of his baseball memorabilia and a 17-minute movie that chronicles his life, the ‘Sultan of Swat’ home of his birth is considered a national shrine. There are tributes and mementos from other sports greats, plus it is also the official museum for the Baltimore Orioles baseball team and the archival home for the Baltimore Colts football team.

216 Emory Street
Tel: (410) 727 1539.
Website: www.BabeRuthMuseum.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 and until 1900 during Oriole games (Apr-Oct), 1000-1600 (Nov-Mar).
Admission charge.

Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum
Being a trainspotter is not a necessary prerequisite for enjoying the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum. The ‘B&O’ is actually the world’s oldest continuously operating railroad facility and the newly renovated museum, covering 16 hectares (40 acres), is located on the site of the America’s first railway depot and station. Plan to spend several hours perusing its huge assortment of locomotives, outdoor exhibit of platforms, railroad models, plus railroad china and silver, clocks and pocket watches and its restored 1884 roundhouse. A miniature operating ‘HO’ train covers 18.3 metre (60 ft) and includes a vintage railroad passenger coach. Free train rides.

901 West Pratt Street
Tel: (410) 752 2490.
Website: www.borail.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission charge.

Baltimore Museum of Art
Though the Baltimore Museum of Art has an impressive assortment of decorative, Native American, African and Oceanic art, what sets it apart is its Cone Collection. In the early 20th century, sisters Etta and Claribel Cone set about amassing art for their respective apartments. They gathered textiles, jewellery and furniture as well as works of Van Gogh, Matisse, Renoir, Picasso and Cézanne. An entire wing is devoted to this incredible collection. The delightful Gertrude’s restaurant (see Restaurants) overlooks a sculpture garden with major works by artists such as Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi and Tony Smith.

10 Art Museum Drive
Tel: (410) 396 7100.
Website: www.artbma.org
Opening hours: Wed- Fri 1100-1700, Sat-Sun 1100-1800.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Port Discovery, the Kid-Powered Museum
Created by Walt Disney Imagineering, this unique museum is both fun and educational for the whole family. Some of its offerings include Kidworks, a three-storey tree house, where kids climb, crawl and swing, and Adventure Expeditions, which recreates a trek to ancient Egypt. Visitors get to play detective at Miss Perception’s Mystery House, where every room is filled with clues as to the whereabouts of the Baffield Family. Other exhibits include Sensation Station, a sensory experience for four-year-old and younger tots, including arts and crafts, a TV studio and movable dinosaurs.

35 Market Place
Tel: (410) 727 8120.
Website: www.portdiscovery.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1000-1700 (May-Sep); Fri-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Sept), Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Oct-May).
Admission charge.

Lexington Market
Lexington Market is the stuff of everyday life - unusual characters, enjoyable smells and sights, the hubbub of commerce and the pleasures of people-watching. Established in 1782, it quickly became a market for farmers, who sold directly from their wagons, since there were no streets at this time. As it gained popularity (it now has 140 vendors), other craftspeople and vendors joined the throng, so that this, the oldest farmers’ market in the USA, became more diversified. Purchasing is purely optional but visitors should not be permitted to leave the market without sampling a Faidley crab cake.

400 West Lexington Street
Tel: (410) 685 6169.
Website: www.lexingtonmarket.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1800.
Free admission.

American Visionary Art Museum
This official centre for unusual, innovative, self-taught art leaves visitor either perplexed or awed. Except for one small, permanent exhibit of interesting but odd portraits, broken glass mosaics including one of George Washington, plus matchstick artwork, the museum displays are totally renovated every year. Running until April 2005 is an extremely fascinating exhibition, Tapestries of Survival - a series of appliquéd and stitched pictures chronicling a family’s Holocaust story. The new exhibit Holy H 2 O: Fluid Universe is an artistic exploration of the mythical, sacred and light-hearted role that water plays in our lives.

800 Key Highway
Tel: (410) 244 1900.
Website: www.avam.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Preservation Society gives architecture, maritime, African American and immigration history tours. Tours start at the Fells Point Visitor’s Center, 812 South Ann Street (tel: (410) 675 6750; website: www.preservationsociety.com) and are intermittent. Check for times. A self-guided Federal Hill neighbourhood walking tour brochure is also available at the visitor’s centre. Tours of Green Mount Cemetery are led by Wayne Schaumburg (e-mail: wschaumburg@earthlink.net; website: http://home.earthlink.net/~wschaumburg) on Saturdays May–Oct.

Bus Tours
Baltimore does not offer much in the way of regularly scheduled bus tours but visitors can explore the city aboard a Baltimore Duck - a WWII amphibious vehicle. The tour is a bit silly but it covers land attractions and then takes a splash in the Inner Harbor for a watery view of the city (tel: (410) 727 3825; website: www.baltimoreducks.com). Departs from the intersection of Conway Street and Light Street.

Water Tours
For cruises of the harbour area and Chesapeake Bay, a key tourist attraction in its own right, contact Harbor Cruises (tel: (800) 695 2628 or (410) 727 3113; website: www.harborcruises.com) who offer breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or moonlight cruises, the Bay Lady, Lady Baltimore or Prince Charming. The Clipper City (tel: (410) 837 6700; website: www.clippercity.com) offers tours around the harbour on a replica 1850s topsail schooner. Tours depart from the dock near Harborplace, Inner Harbor.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Ellicott City: First settled in the 1700s and tucked up against the steep hills, approximately 16km (10 miles) southwest of Baltimore, Ellicott City, an old mill town on the banks of the Patapsco River (website: www.oldmainline.com/ellicott) is a popular destination for people from Baltimore itself, offering a taste of small-town Maryland. The Howard County Tourism Council, 8267 Main Street, Ellicott City (tel: (800) 288 8747 or (410) 313 1900; website: www.visithowardcounty.com) provides further information.

Frederick: Quaint boutiques, good restaurants and a prime destination for history buffs, Maryland’s second largest city makes an interesting day trip. One of its most interesting attractions, the National Museum of Civil War Medicine, gives an fascinating look at 19th century medicines and its Civil War innovations. Frederick is located 59 km (37 miles) northwest of Baltimore (tel: (301) 360 3842; website: www.cityoffrederick.com).

For a Full Day

Washington, DC: Being only 56km (35 miles) from Baltimore, it is at least possible for a day tripper to sample the country’s capital. Major sights include the White House, Capitol Hill, the Smithsonian Institution Museums, the Washington Monument and the Memorials to Lincoln and Jefferson. To get a sense of the more bohemian side of the city, the Adams Morgan district, along 18th Street and Columbia Road, is a good place for interested tourists to visit, especially for bookshops, restaurants, music shops, cafés and bars. Washington, DC Convention and Tourism Corporation (tel: (202) 789 7000; website: www.washington.org) can provide further information.

Annapolis: Annapolis is not only the original and current capital of Maryland but also regarded as the USA’s sailing capital. The town, home to the US Naval Academy, has a multitude of museums, original colonial-style homes and a lovely waterfront. Its State House, set upon the hill overlooking the city, is where George Washington resigned his commission as Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Army. Annapolis and Anne Arundel County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 26 West Street, Annapolis (tel: (410) 280 0445; website: www.visit-annapolis.org) can provide further information.

Sport

Shopping

Shopping in Baltimore really brings to life the neighbourhood feel of the city. The most brazenly commercial and modern spot is the Inner Harbor, with its Gallery and Harborplace malls, full of the latest designer and brand-name shops. Many of the districts surrounding the harbour area have their own specialities. Mount Vernon’s renowned Antique Row (700-800 North Howard Street, and 200-300 West Read Street) has 40 antique shops and 70 dealers.

A little to the east of this, on Charles Street, are some small, individual shops, cafés and restaurants. Fells Point’s Broadway Market, with its stalls and shops, is the oldest existing building in the city (1785). Around it are curio shops, galleries and bakeries. Little Italy has a similar but more upmarket feel to it.

The oldest of them all is Lexington Market, just west of the Mount Vernon district (see Further Distractions). Other markets include Belair Market (on Gay Street and Fayette Street), Cross Street Market (at Charles Street and Cross Street), Hollins Market (on Hollins Street and Arlington Street), Lafayette Market (on Pennsylvania Street and Laurens Street), the newest Northeast Market (on Monument Street and Chester Street) and the Downtown Farmer’s Market (at Holiday Street and Saratoga Street). The markets identify the local colour and flavour of a district. Each market has its own character, characters and specialities. All markets are open Monday-Saturday – except Hollins, which is closed on Monday. Baltimore Public Markets (tel: (410) 276 9498) provides further information.

Baltimore also has many speciality stores. Two good bookshops are Bibelot, Woodholme Centre, 1819 Reistertown Road, and Kelmscott Bookshop, 32-34 West 25th Street. For women’s clothing, there is the Village of Cross Keys, 5100 Falls Road, a shopping complex about 10km (6 miles) from Downtown with, among 40 other boutiques, specialists such as Ruth Shaw, Octavia and Jones and Jones. Store Ltd, also at the Cross Keys, sells a top-quality range of handcrafted jewellery, as well as special gift items such as stationery, kitchen gadgets and coffee table books. Another good place for unusual gift items is Crafts Concepts, Greenspring station, on Falls Road and Joppa Road.

Shoppers in search of a city speciality should get hold of some Old Bay spice (a local seasoning), seeing as Baltimore’s main treat, crab cakes, might prove difficult to export. There is a range of Old Bay souvenirs too.

General shopping hours are 1000-1800, although many malls and large stores are open into the evening. Visiting shoppers should always retain receipts, as customs may ask to see that the 5% VAT has already been paid locally. Individual shops can provide tax and duty-free forms, allowing tax back on items upon departure from the USA.

Culture

The performing arts have a history as long and distinguished as Baltimore itself. The American national anthem was penned in these parts and, with the patronage of the highest members of American society, culture flourished in these parts.

The central booking agency for most venues is Ticketmaster (tel: (410) 752 1200 or (800) 551 7328; website: www.ticketmaster.com). There is also Baltimore Tickets, at the Visitors Center, 451 Light Street (tel: (410) 752 8427).

The magazine Baltimore Ambassador, which lists cultural performance and events in Baltimore can often be found in hotels. There is also a monthly magazine, Baltimore Magazine, which lists events and offers dining suggestions, as well as City Search (website: www.baltimore.citysearch.com) and the Baltimore Area Convention and Visitors Association, 100 Light Street, 12th Floor (tel: (877) BALTIMORE or (877) 225846673; website: www.baltimore.org) provides up-to-date information on cultural events.

Music: The city’s main classical music venue is the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, home of the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra (tel: (410) 783 8000; website: www.baltimoresymphony.org). 1212 North Cathedral Street, Mount Vernon. The Music Director Designate, Yuri Temirkanov, does not limit performances only to classical music. Concerts range from Marvin Hamlisch and Linda Ronstadt to jazz inspired events and Celtic celebrations on his agenda. The Lyric Opera House, 110 West Mount Royal Avenue (tel: (410) 685 5086), is nearby and the resident Baltimore Opera Company, (tel: (410) 727 6000; website: www.baltimoreopera.com) is just starting its 52nd season. The Peabody Conservatory of Music, 1 Mount Vernon Place (tel: (410) 659 8100; website: www.peabody.jhu.edu/cons), the oldest such school in the USA, often schedules free recitals and concerts.

Theatre: Baltimore has numerous theatres spread across the Downtown area. At the Theatre Hopkins, a brick barn dating from 1804, located at Johns Hopkins University (tel: (410) 516 7159; website: www.jhu.edu/~theatre), British and Irish plays are regularly performed. Center Stage, at the State Theater of Maryland, 700 North Calvert Street (tel: (410) 332 0033; website: www.centerstage.org), produces a wide theatrical range, from Shakespeare to Beckett. The Everyman Theatre, 1727 North Charles Street (tel: (410) 752 2208; website: www.everymantheatre.org) has its own resident company, performing ‘Off-Broadway’ plays in an intimate setting. The Vagabond Players, 806 South Broadway, Fells Point (tel: (410) 563 9135; website: www.vagabondplayers.com), perform modern classics to recent Broadway successes, such as Death of a Salesman (1949) and Blood Brothers (1983). At the Morris A Mechanic Theatre, 25 Hopkins Plaza (tel: (410) 625 4230; website: www.themechanic.org), performances are non-profit making and cover drama, music and dance.

Dinner-theatres range from variety style to classic Broadway shows. Bobby B’s Palace, 2132 Turkey Point Road (tel: (410) 687 8838; website: www.aljolson.com), specialises in impersonations of great performers, such as Al Jolson. The town of Timonium is only a 15-minute drive from downtown Baltimore and the country’s largest and very highly critically acclaimed Timonium Dinner Theatre, 9603 Deereco Road (tel: (410) 560 1113), is located here. The menu at this family-owned and operated establishment always includes some interesting homemade specialities.

Dance: This is not covered by any separate company, and includes everything from classical to Broadway shows being staged at the various theatre and music venues (see above).

Film: The Senator Theatre, 5904 York Road (tel: (410) 435 8338; website: www.senator.com), was built during the golden age of Hollywood and is one of few surviving examples of a real neighbourhood movie theatre. As well plenty of ordinary cinemas showing the latest Hollywood releases, there are a couple of specialist venues for arthouse releases. The Baltimore Museum of Art, Art Museum Drive (tel: (410) 396 7100; website: www.artbma.org), takes certain themes for its screenings, whereas the Enoch Pratt Free Library, 400 Cathedral Street (tel: (410) 396 5430; website: www.pratt.lib.md.us), is broader in its programme range.

Because of its varied topography, Maryland has proved a popular destination for Hollywood film-makers. Two Baltimore-born directors, Barry Levinson and John Waters, have been responsible for putting their hometown on the movie map. Levinson’s Baltimore-based films, starting with Diner and later including Tin Men (1987), Avalon (1990) and Liberty Heights (1999), pay tribute to life in 1960s-era Baltimore, when the director himself was growing up in the city. Waters, on the other hand, aims his attention toward the quirky side of life in Baltimore – films such as Hairspray (1988) and Serial Mom (1994) have become cult classics. Baltimore has also been the setting for many other films, including Patriot Games (1992), the Pelican Brief (1993), Twelve Monkeys (1995), the Blair Witch Project (1999) and the 2004 smash hit, Ladder 49.

Literary Notes: Strongly associated with Baltimore and standing on either side of the fence are two literary giants – writer Edgar Allan Poe (1809-1849) and H L Mencken (1880-1956), critic par excellence. Poe’s house, 203 Amity Street, is now a museum. His grave is at the Westminster Cemetery, on the corner of Fayette Street and Greene Street. Mencken, who became most famous for his biting, perspicacious and profound work as a literary critic, lived at 1524 Hollins Street, Union Square. His major work, The American Language (1921), had a huge influence on American writing in the 1920s.

Francis Scott Key (1799-1843) became famous for his poem, ‘The Defence of Fort McHenry,’ penned while watching the American flag flying during the unsuccessful British siege of Baltimore. In 1931, it was adopted as the US national anthem, ‘The Star Spangled Banner’.

Much of the town’s literary past centres on the Mount Vernon district, which also hosts the annual Book Festival in September. Meanwhile, F Scott Fitzgerald’s wife, Zelda, was treated for mental illness at the Johns Hopkins University. Fitzgerald (1896-1940) finished Tender is the Night (1934) while living in the area. Dashiell Hammett (1894-1961), creator of the ‘hard-boiled’ private detective Sam Spade, was born in nearby St Mary’s County. His novel, The Maltese Falcon (1930), was made into the classic 1941 film of the same name, directed by John Huston and starring Humphrey Bogart as the detective.

Other writers have an acquaintanceship with the city. John Pendleton Kennedy, credited with inventing the idea of the genteel South, lived at 12 Madison Street. He was a best-selling novelist in the 1820s. The master of silly poems and snappy aphorisms, Ogden Nash, moved from Rye, New York to Rugby Road in Baltimore. He lived in Cross Keys, when he died in 1971. Pulitzer Prize-winner Upton Sinclair (1878-1968), was born in Baltimore, while Gertrude Stein (1874-1946) studied at Johns Hopkins University. Russell Baker, a New York Times Baltimore columnist, based his Pulitzer Prize-winning autobiography Growing Up (1995) on his boyhood, and author Anne Tyler features modern-day Baltimore in her novel The Accidental Tourist (1985).

Nightlife

Nightlife abounds at the Inner Harbor, Little Italy, Fells Point, Canton, Federal Hill and Mount Vernon. Baltimore is a lively town, with music from jazz to rock and reggae to classical, plus clubs that reflect sport and the gay scene. Restaurants run the gamut of cuisine, but specialities are seafood and crabs. For the English equivalent of real ale, there are specialist brewers or brewpubs with ‘micro-brew’ beers.

Dress code and admission are specific to the venue but a photo ID (identification) is necessary as minimum drinking age is 21 years. Most bars and nightclubs are open 1100-0200. Depending on the venue, the average price of a beer is between US$2.50 and US$4. A 10-20% tip is customary for wait staff and bartenders.

Publications providing nightlife listings and information include the daily newspaper The Baltimore Sun (website: www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment), the free Baltimore Alternative, serving the gay community, and the monthly guide distributed through hotels, Baltimore Ambassador. Information is also available online at www.baltimore.citysearch.com.

Bars: Many bars, such as Kooper’s Tavern, 1702 Thames Street, are good places to eat and offer a casual atmosphere. Max’s on Broadway, 737 South Broadway, boasts 92 rotating draught beers and 15 satellite receivers to view American sports. The Explorer’s Lounge, Harbor Court Hotel, Inner Harbor, has an interesting décor (animal-print murals and furnishings) while the new complex, Power Plant Live!, 4 Market Street, has a variety of bars. The upmarket Havana Club, on the top floor of Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 600 Water Street, is the place for a stylish smoke. For micro-brews, try the Capitol City Brewing Company, 301 Light Street, Inner Harbor. ‘Happy hour’ times vary around the town and can be strung together to make a half-price evening. For a locally patronised crab house, try OBrycki’s, 1727 East Pratt Street.

Casinos: Commercial casinos are illegal in Baltimore - locals head one hour east to Dover, Delaware. Dover Downs, 1131 North DuPont Highway (website: www.doverdowns.com), a massive entertainment complex, has a casino. Minimum age for entry is 21 years. ID is required.

Clubs: From Latin American at the Latin Palace, 509 South Broadway, Fells Point, to the retro Have a Nice Day Café, 4 Market Street, where you can dance on a lighted floor to 1970s-1990s tunes, Baltimore has toe-tapping variety. Hurricane’s, Sheraton International Hotel, at BWI Airport, prides itself on covering the 1980s and 90s, although ‘proper dress’ is required. The happy hour buffet actually lasts four hours, from 1600-2000.

Live Music: Away from the Inner Harbor area, Buddies Pub and Jazz Club, 313 North Charles Street, offers a local pub atmosphere with ‘Live Straight-Ahead Jazz’ at the weekends. The Harbor Cruises company, docked near Harborplace, Inner Harbor, offers the chance to dine and dance on water, while viewing the impressive, illuminated Baltimore skyline as you twirl. Many of the bars have different nights and styles of live music too, such as the Full Moon Saloon, 1710 Aliceanna Street, which features seven nights a week of blues music. The blues, with occasional alternative rock, makes the joint jump at Funk Box, 8-10 East Cross.

City Statistics

Location: Maryland (MD), mid-Atlantic coast, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 651,154 (city); 2.53 million (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1.5ºC (35ºF).
Average July temp: 30ºC (86ºF).
Annual rainfall: 1,061mm (41.8 inches).

Special Events

First Thursday, arts, displays, exhibitions, talks and music, first Thurs of every month, Charles Street Corridor, free admission to Walters and BMA
Martin Luther King Parade, Jan, Eutaw Street
St Patrick’s Day Parade, Mar, starts at Inner Harbor
Preakness Celebration, parades, concerts, races on the water and balloon launches, third weekend in May, throughout the city
Preakness Celebration Parade, floats, marching bands and clowns, May, Downtown
Preakness Celebration Events, May, Harborplace and The Gallery
Preakness Crab Derby, May, Lexington Market
Preakness Derby, May, Pimlico Race Course
Volvo Waterfront Concert Series, Inner Harbor
Harborplace and The Gallery Summer Concert Series, featuring music of all kinds from rock to reggae to big bands (website: www.harborplace.com), May-Sep, Amphitheatre
Balticon, Maryland Regional Science Fiction Convention, May, Wyndham Harbor Hotel (website: www.bsfs.org/b39hist.htm)
Latino Fest, cultural festival (website: www.eblo.org), first two weeks Jun, Patterson Park
Annual Charles Village Parade, Jun, Charles Village
Liberty Week at the Harbor - 60th Commemoration of D-Day, Jun, Harborplace
Baltimore Fourth of July Celebration, 4 Jul, Harborplace Amphitheatre, Inner Harbor
Artscape Festival (website: www.artscape.org), Jul, Mount Royal Avenue
Maryland State Fair, originally just a farmers’ markets, now also includes hundreds of stalls and a massive fun fair (website: www.marylandstatefair.com), last week Aug and first week Oct, Maryland State Fairground, Timonium
Baltimore Book Festival, Sep, Mount Vernon
Annual Chocolate Festival, Oct, Lexington Market
Fells Point Fun Festival, Oct, on and around Broadway, Fells Point
Baltimore Thanksgiving Day Parade, Nov, Pratt Street to Market Place
Lighted Boat Parade, spectacular event with over 50 boats decorated and glinting in the dark, first week of Dec, Inner Harbor

Cost of Living

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005