World City Guide

Few cities on earth are changing as fast as Beijing, capital city of the People’s Republic of China (PRC). Construction cranes rule the horizon, new hotels, shopping malls and commercial plazas (not to mention 37 sports stadiums and 59 training facilities) are springing up at giddying speed and old sectors of the city are being razed and modernized. In short, Beijing is focused on one thing only; the 2008 Olympics. Hosting the Games represents the ultimate statement of China’s emergence as a global superpower, and it is determined to make the ‘People’s Olympics’ the most successful and dazzling ever staged.

Beijing’s high-speed physical evolution moves hand-in-hand with a firmly retained grip on its rich cultural heritage and strict Communist social order. A monolithic showcase city, Beijing can give a distorted view of China to foreign visitors. Its soaring modern architecture and vast international hotels are connected by an intricate system of broad boulevards and ring roads around the city. Rush hour traffic jams can match those of any major world city and the pollution can be eye-watering. Beyond the modernity, Beijing offers a bountiful hotpot of traditional lane houses (hutong), parks, architectural and cultural treasures and exquisite temples.

Beijing became China’s capital in 1421 and was to remain so until the collapse of the imperial regime in 1911. It was not until the late 19th century that Westerners were allowed to reside there and all trading links had previously been restricted to Canton. From 1911 to 1949 Beijing suffered, as did the rest of China, from the wars fought between various factions trying to take control of the whole country. The Japanese invasion in 1931 was followed by a bitter civil war, which finally led to Communist supremacy under Mao Ze Dong and the founding of the People’s Republic of China with Beijing as the capital.

The first 10 years of Mao’s rule stabilised a fearful, humiliated nation and great advances were made in industry, agriculture, education and health care. However, in 1966, Mao launched the Cultural Revolution, an attack on liberal political and social thought, the legacy of which is still felt across the country. Following Mao’s death in 1976, President Deng Xiao Ping gradually opened up China to the outside world, welcoming foreigners as co-investors and tourists, and empowering Chinese entrepreneurs to set up businesses. Since 1999, Beijing has received a staggering US$10.31 billion in direct foreign investment, most of it in the 4-mile square Central Business District (CBD).

There’s only one place to begin exploring the city – Tiananmen Square, where Mao Ze Dong declared the foundation of the People’s Republic. Though more closely identified with the suppression of the student-led pro-democracy protests of 1989, the world’s largest public square is an impressive tourism centrepiece. To stand (alongside thousands of visitors) and see the imposing majesty of the Forbidden City to the north and the vast portrait of Mao Ze Dong on the Tiananmen Gate itself is to appreciate the awesome hold that China’s rulers have always had on the people. For further confirmation, turn around and see the snaking queue of people preparing to enter Chairman Mao’s mausoleum.

Beijing is at its best in late spring and, particularly, autumn when crisp, sunny days are accompanied by tree leaves turning glorious shades of red and gold. The heat and humidity of summer and the biting wind in winter can be extreme.

Getting There By Air

Capital International Airport (PEK)
Tel: (10) 6456 4247 or 3220 or 4247 for flight information.
Website: www.bcia.com.cn/en/index.jsp

Beijing’s airport is located 28km (17 miles) northeast of the city centre. The new international terminal opened in September 1999 for the 50th anniversary of the founding of the PRC and now serves 98 international, 21 regional and 757 domestic routes linking Beijing with 54 cities in 39 countries. More than 40 foreign airlines have booking offices in Beijing. Currently being expanded to cope with Beijing’s projected exponential rise in business and leisure traffic, expected to peak at around 120 million by 2020. A second airport is also currently under consideration.

Major airlines: Air China (tel: (10) 6466 1697/8 or freephone in China only (800) 810 111 for tickets; website: www.airchina.com.cn) is the national airline. Domestic airlines include: China Eastern Airlines (tel: (10) 6468 1166; website: www.ce-air.com), China Southern Airlines (tel: (10) 6567 2203; website: www.cs-air.com), China Northwest Airlines (tel: (10) 6601 7755; website www.cnwa.com) and Shanghai Airlines (tel: (10) 6456 9019; website: www.shanghai-air.com). Other major carriers include: Air Canada, Air France, British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, DragonAir, Garuda Indonesia, Japan Airlines, KLM, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysian Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Qantas, SAS, Singapore Airlines, Thai International and United Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Beijing: From London is 9 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 14 hours 40 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 16 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is 13 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATM, hotel reservations and transfers, duty free and other shops, cafés, restaurants, left-luggage and tourist information.

Transport to the city: Metered taxis are available at the airport (journey time – 35-60 minutes, depending on traffic). The Airport-City Shuttle Bus (tel: (10) 6433 5835) departs every 30 minutes (0800-2230) from outside Arrivals Hall No. 11. Buses take five routes into the city – the most popular is to Xidan in central Beijing, a short walk from the Forbidden City. The other routes are to Beijing Railway Station, Gongzhufen in western Beijing, Zhongguancun hi-tech park in the city’s northwest district (journey time – 35-60 minutes, depending on traffic. Shuttle buses to the airport leave every 30 minutes (0530-1900) from the China Aviation Building, and every hour from both the China Art Gallery and Zhongguancun.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

A Chinese driving licence is required to drive in China and driving is illegal for visitors on a tourist visa. Foreign residents may bring their own cars into the country but this involves a huge bureaucratic effort. Holders of Resident’s Permits may apply for a Chinese driving licence but again this is involves a great deal of bureaucracy and is really not recommended.

Sometimes statistics speak loudest; in 2003, more than 1 million cars were sold in Beijing. Driving is chaotic, traffic can get extremely congested during morning and evening rush hours and little attention given to rules and regulations. Road signs are in both Chinese and English, though the translation quality is inconsistent (something the authorities are addressing pre-2008). Basically, all foreigners who want to travel by car within China should hire a car with a local driver.

Emergency breakdown service:
There is no breakdown service in China. Drivers have to rely on assistance from other passing vehicles.

Routes to the city: Main routes out of Beijing are denoted by city names such as the Beijing–Tianjin–Tanggu Expressway, Beijing–Shijiazhuang–Taiyuan Expressway, Beijing–Shenyang Expressway and Beijing–Chengde–Zhangjiakou First Class Road.

Driving times to Beijing: From Tianjin – 1 hour 30 minutes; Chengde – 3 hours 30 minutes; Taiyuan – 6 hours.

Coach services: Coach and bus travel can be very slow and rather uncomfortable and, due to Beijing’s inland location (a long way from the major east coast cities), ranks a distant third to air and rail travel. However, bus tickets are cheaper than rail fares and easier to buy because of the lower demand. There are few facilities at the bus stations and tickets should be bought in person at the ticket office. Generally, the four main long-distance bus stations in Beijing are situated on the perimeter of the city in the direction of their destination. Dongzhimen, Dongzhimen Xiejie (this station is currently being upgraded into a transport hub ready for 2008), serves the northeast and cities such as Chengde; Haihutin, Nanyuan Lu, serves the south; Beijiao (also known as Deshengmen) is for the north; and Majuan, Guangqumenwai Dajie, serves the east. In addition, buses to Tianjin depart from Zhaogongku, near the intersection of Nansanhuan Donglu and Puhuangyu Lu.

Getting There By Rail

The national railway service within China, operated by the Ministry of Railways, is extensive. Beijing has two main railway stations. Beijing Railway Station (tel: (10) 6512 9525 – Chinese language only) serves routes to the north and east of the city and the newer Beijing West Railway Station (tel: (10) 6321 6253 – Chinese language only), which is Asia’s largest rail terminal, serves the south and west. Other stations in Beijing serve the suburban routes. Both main stations have left-luggage facilities, ATMs, tourist information, shops and restaurants. All Chinese express trains have four different classes – soft sleeper, soft seat, hard sleeper and hard seat. Tickets can be bought at the foreigners’ booking office in each station; passports are required to make the purchase. Reservations, especially for sleepers, should be made two or three days in advance.

Rail services: Trans-Manchurian services to Moscow (journey time – six days) and Trans-Mongolian trains to Ulan Bator and Moscow (journey time – five days) leave from Beijing Railway Station, as do trains to Pyongyang in North Korea (journey time – 25 hours). Trains to Hong Kong (journey time – 27 hours) and Vietnam (journey time – 43 hours) leave from Beijing West Station. Although both main stations have special ticket desks for foreign travelers, ticket purchasing can still be confusing. However, tickets can also be bought through China International Travel Service (CITS) (tel: (10) 6522 2991 or 8522 7930). Most hotels can also make ticket bookings for a small fee, by using the Chinese-language booking line (tel: 6509 3783). The main railway stations for domestic journeys are Beijing Station and Beijing West. Journey times for domestic services to Beijing are: Harbin – 14 hours; Shanghai – 12 hours; Xian – 15 hours; Guangzhou – 24 hours.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The public transport system, especially the bus system, is rarely attempted by foreign visitors unless they have a good understanding of Mandarin Chinese. Travel by subway or taxi (see Taxis below) is by far the easier option.

City buses run 0530-2300 and are very crowded, particularly in the rush hours (0630-0830 and 1700-1900). There is also a limited night service between 2300 and 0530 hours. Fares are paid to the conductor. It is important to have the destination written in Chinese as the conductor almost certainly will not speak English.

Clean, fast and efficient, the subway (0530-2300) is an appealing alternative, although the trains can be packed during rush hours. The subway consists of two main lines: the East-West Line runs from Pingguoyuan to Sihui Dong, and the Ring Line follows a circular route, mirroring the Second Ring Road. The ‘13 line’ operates in the north of the city, connecting Dongzhimen and Xizhimen Ring Line stations, and the ‘Ba Tong’ Line 1 extension threads further east as far as Tuqiao – though neither is of much use to tourists. Four new Beijing subway lines, including an airport link, are due for completion by 2008 (a total of 16 lines are planned by 2020). Entrances are marked by a logo of a square inside a ‘C’ shape and there is a flat rate depending on the length of the journey. Tickets can be purchased from the ticket offices above the platforms and, as tickets are undated and valid for all journeys. Signs and announcements are in Chinese and English.

Taxis
Taxis are plentiful (42,000 apparently ply the capital’s streets daily), cheap and metered. They wait around major department stores, hotels and railway stations and can be hailed on the street. Taxis in Beijing are mostly small, red hatchbacks or saloons (known as xiali) and, generally, the smaller and older the car, the cheaper the fare. All taxis have a sticker in the back window that indicates the rate per kilometre, but the usual rate is RMB10 for the first three kilometres and RMB1.2-1.6 per kilometre thereafter. There is a 20% surcharge after 2300. It is important to write the destination in Chinese as most drivers are unlikely to speak English. Taxis can be pre-booked through Beijing Taxi Co (tel: (10) 6837 3399). Tipping is not expected but always welcome.

Limousines
CITS, CITS Building, 1 Dongdan Beidajie, Dongcheng District (tel: (10) 6522 2991 or 8522 7930; website: www.cits.net) can arrange limousines for US$90 per day within the city limits. Beijing Limo (tel: (10) 6204 5156; website www.beijinglimo.com) provides a range of limousines and people carriers for airport pick-ups and city tours.

Driving in the City
Few short-term visitors to Beijing attempt to drive there, as hiring a car is a lengthy process, parking is difficult and car hire is restricted to the city limits. Visitors would also need to be in possession of a Chinese driving licence, which can only be obtained by those holding a Resident’s Permit. Although road regulations do exist, they are regularly ignored and it is not uncommon to see aggressive lane-swapping by buses and taxis or even traffic going the wrong way on roads or roundabouts. Theoretically, traffic drives on the right but on smaller roads this is not always adhered to. It is important to remember that in the case of an accident it will always be assumed that the foreigner is at fault.

Car Hire
Hire car options are beginning to open up in Beijing, though the car usually comes with a driver. Hertz China (tel: (10) 6463 4830/77 or 4787; website: www.hertz.net.cn) has an office at the Jianguo Hotel, 5 Jianguomenwei Dajie, rents cars (with driver) from around US$50 per day.

Bicycle Hire
As China has the highest number of bicycles anywhere in the world, it also has an enormous supply of bicycle rental outlets. Although Chinese roads are unpredictable and at times fairly lawless and dangerous, hiring a bike can be preferable to relying on public transport. There are bike lanes on all main roads in Beijing, although these are filled with several thousand cyclists during rush hours.

Bicycles can be rented from hotels, including the Peace Hotel, 3 Jingyu Hutong (tel: (10) 6512 8833) and the Palace Hotel, Jingyu Hutong (tel: (10) 6512 8899). Shops tend to be cheaper but rates can vary greatly. A deposit is always required. When parking, bicycles must be left in the special bike parking areas, which are guarded and are very cheap. Bringing one’s own cycle lock is recommended.

Business

Business Etiquette
Business Etiquette When it comes to conducting business in China, infinite patience is the key. To many foreign businesspeople, the protracted pleasantries at the beginning of each meeting, the drawn-out negotiations where each minor point is discussed at length and the seeming reluctance to close the deal can be very frustrating indeed. The only way to deal with this is to allow plenty of time for discussion and negotiations and ensure that every important condition is included in the contract as the Chinese will follow it strictly once business has been concluded.

Chinese businesspeople are very formal and a smart, sober suit is a must, as is the all-important exchanging of business cards. When giving and receiving business cards, it is essential to use both hands. Cards should be printed in English on one side and Chinese on the other. The person who extended the invitation should pay the bill for business meals. When visiting a business associate’s house, a modest gift, such as chocolates or any kind of flowers, is appropriate; visitors should avoid giving expensive gifts and giving money is considered an insult. Business hours are usually 0800-1700 weekdays, with one or two hours for lunch. Businesspeople visiting Beijing will find the monthly magazines Beijing Review (website: www.bjreview.com.cn) of interest.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Over the centuries, Beijing has suffered the effects of war and revolution, large-scale industrialisation and a building boom to meet the demands of a growing, modern city. Skyscrapers loom over colourful temples and the intimate courtyards of the hutongs, while traffic crawls along the streets surrounding tranquil parks. Beijing used to be a walled city but little remains now apart from the grand Tiananmen and Qianmen gates, located at either end of Tiananmen Square. The imposing square is home to the Great Hall of the People, China’s parliament, the Mao Ze Dong Memorial Hall, where the body of Chairman Mao rests, and the Monument to the People’s Heroes, an obelisk depicting major events of the revolution.

Beijing’s key attractions are listed below, but the city and its surrounds are historically and culturally rich. If time allows, it is worth including the Old Observatory on an itinerary. Established by Kublai Khan, it is now a museum with an extensive collection of Ming and Qing dynasty bronze astronomical instruments. The Beijing Zoo, of course, is the world-famous home of the giant pandas and merits a visit, as does the Marco Polo Bridge in the south west of the city. To the northwest, the 798 Factory art district at Dashanzi is gaining global recognition for its broad portfolio of galleries and art museums. Away from the centre, most visitors go to Badaling (see Excursions) to walk on the Great Wall but another section is Mutianyu, to the northeast of the city, which has spectacular views. It is worth including Zhou Kou Dian (Peking Man Site), 48km (30 miles) southwest of Beijing, the site where skulls dating back between 200,000 and 500,000 years were found in 1929. The original fossils were lost during World War II, but there is an interesting museum housing many implements and animal bones from that period.

Tourist Information
Beijing Tourism Administration
28 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District
Tel: (10) 8516 2288.
Website: www.bjta.gov.cn

The Beijing Tourism Administration office organises a host of city tours and excursions. There is also a tourist office just off Wangfujing Dajie shopping street (near Crowne Plaza hotel), which doubles up as an IATA-approved travel agency and tour operator: Beijing Tourist Information Office, 10 Dengshikou Dong Jie, Dongcheng District (tel: (10) 6528 7611).

China International Travel Service (CITS)
1 Dongdan Dajie, Dongcheng District
Tel: (10) 6522 2991 or 8522 7930.
Website: www.cits.net

There is also a 24-hour tourist telephone hotline (tel: (10) 6513 0828) for information and emergencies.

Passes
There are no tourist passes in Beijing.

Key Attractions

Tiananmen Square
Located at the heart of modern Beijing (the scene of many historic events), Tiananmen Square was renovated during the first half of 1999, in preparation for the celebrations of the 50th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. It now has two green areas, trees and subtle ground-level lighting. Attractions in the square include the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, where Mao Ze Dong’s preserved body is on display, the Museum of the Revolution and the Great Hall of the People.

Chairman Mao Memorial Hall
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 0830-1130, plus Wed-Fri 1400-1600 Tue and Thu.
Free admission.

China National Museum
Opening hours: daily 0900-1530.
Admission charge.

Great Hall of the People
Opening hours: 0830-1500, but closed during government meetings.
Admission charge.

Forbidden City
Built in the 15th century, the Forbidden City (or Palace Museum) is a vast complex of courtyards, halls, pavilions and gardens, which was home to 24 emperors from the Ming and Qing dynasties. It now houses a vast collection of priceless relics, including paintings, ancient pottery and bronzes, and is one of many UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city.

Tiananmen Square
Tel: (10) 6513 2255.
Website: www.dpm.org.cn
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (10 Apr-14 Oct); 0830-1630 (15 Oct-31 Mar).
Admission charge.

Temple of Heaven
Just south of Tiananmen Square, the Temple of Heaven (located within Temple of Heaven Park), is China’s largest temple complex, built in the 15th century and used for prayer by the emperor to ask for good harvests. The architecture of the temple is exquisite and the roofs are covered with blue glazed tiles. The grounds of this UNESCO World Heritage Site also contain the Echo Wall, which carries the merest whisper.

Tian Tan Lu (north gate entrance)
Tel: (10) 6702 8866.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800; daily 0600-2000 (park).
Admission charge.

Lama Temple
Located in the northeast of the city, the Lama Temple, built in the late 17th century, used to be a centre of learning for the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Lamaism. Today, there are about 70 monks (or lamas) in residence. The temple consists of a series of halls, connected by courtyards. An impressive 18m (59ft) Maitreya, carved from a single sandalwood tree, stands in the furthermost hall, which is accessible to the public.

Yonghe Gong Dajie
Tel: (10) 6904 4494.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630.
Admission charge.

Drum Tower and Bell Tower
Every Chinese city once had drum and bell towers that were used to advise citizens of the time of day and announce curfews. The Beijing Drum Tower, in the north of the city, was originally built in the 13th century and reconstructed around 1420 when the Bell Tower was first built. The towers, which are quite different in style, offer good views across Beijing.

Di’an Men Wai Dajie
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

Summer Palace
The Summer Palace in the northwestern suburbs, was used by the royal court as a retreat to escape from the heat of the city and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The former imperial residences are located on the shores of Kunming Lake, which contains small islands, ornamental bridges and a marble boat that was once a teahouse. The Summer Palace is best reached by taxi.

Northwest Suburbs
Tel: (10) 6288 1610.
Opening hours: daily 0630-1800 in summer, 0700-1730 in low season.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Beihai Park
Beihai Lake covers almost half of the 67-hectare (168-acre) Beihai Park and is a popular place for skating in winter and boating in summer. Qiong Hua Island (Jade Flowering Island), in the southern end of the lake, is reached by an arched marble bridge and is home to a Tibetan Buddhist shrine (the White Dagoba) and the Temple of Eternal Peace.

Wenjin Jie
Opening hours: Daily 0600-2100 (park); daily 0900-1600 (halls and temples).
Admission charge for the park and temples.

Jingshan (Prospect Park)
Located immediately to the north of the Forbidden City, Jingshan contains a hill, known as Coal Hill, which enjoys superb views over the golden rooftops of the imperial buildings. One of the five pavilions on the summit, Wan Chun Ting (Pavilion of Ten Thousand Springs), used to be the highest point in the city.

Jingshan Qian Jie
Opening hours: Daily 0600-2130.
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

Bus Tours
China International Travel Service (tel: (10) 6522 2991 or 8522 7930; website: www.cits.net) and Beijing Tourism Administrations (tel: (10) 8516 2288; website: www.bjta.gov.cn) both offer full-day city tours with free pick-ups from many hotels. The Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven excursion lasts about eight hours.

Other Tours
Most hotels offer tours and there aren’t really any good external other options as yet. Hotels are the best source of information and most have their own dedicated tour bookers.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Hutong tours: The hutong (alleyways) are fast-disappearing ancient areas of housing where small single-storey dwellings arranged around courtyards form a maze of narrow streets. The ideal way to see the hutong is by rickshaw or on foot. Taking along an English-speaking guide will ensure an opportunity to talk to the locals and maybe even see their homes. Beijing Tourism Administration(tel: (10) 8516 2288) and China International Travel Service (tel: (10) 6522 2991 or 8522 7930; website: www.cits.net) can both arrange rickshaw tours lasting 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours with an English-speaking guide. Many hotels also arrange similar tours for guests.

For a Whole Day

Great Wall and Ming Tombs: The Great Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, extends for thousands of miles across China, the nearest section to Beijing being at Badaling. The wall stretches between watchtowers and is wide enough for five horsemen. Badaling Great Wall (tel: (10) 6912 2222) is open daily (0700-1730) and there is an admission charge. A less busy option is to visit the Wall at Mutianyu, about two hours drive from Beijing. Here, chairlifts and cablecars provide spectacular panoramas of the wall and mountain scenery (0730-1800). The Ming Tombs are reached by the Spirit Way, which is guarded by huge statues of animals and men. The tombs are all open daily (times vary for each tomb but are generally 0800-1730) and admission is charged. Thirteen of the Ming emperors were buried around the valley but only one of the actual underground burial chambers, at the Ding Ling tomb (tel: (10) 6076 1424), is open to the public. It is best to go by taxi or on a coach tour with China International Travel Service (tel: (10) 6522 2991 or 8522 7930; website: www.cits.net) or on a trip arranged through the major hotels.

Fragrant Hills: Located more than 28km (18 miles) to the northwest of Beijing and best reached by taxi, the Fragrant Hills (tel: (10) 6259 1155) are thickly wooded with pine trees and were popular with the emperors as a hunting ground. Pagodas, temples and pavilions can be found dotted around the park, which is open daily 0600-1800. The summit of the highest peak can be reached by a chair lift (admission charge).

Sport

Shopping

The opening up of Beijing to the west has had a profound impact on shopping. A wide range of consumer goods (both local and imported) are now available and shopping malls, luxury brand outlets and car dealerships are mushrooming across the city. The new Jinyuan shopping mall is the city’s largest, while Oriental Plaza (underneath Grand Hyatt) also has a popular food court and supermarket. The China World Centre caters to those with upscale brand obsessions and large wallets. The main shopping area is pedestrianised Wangfujing Dajie, crammed with foreign brand outlets and department stores. The best clothes shops are on Dong Dan Bei Dajie, as well as Silk Alley, Xiushui Dong Jie off Jianguomenwai Dajie, which also has silk stalls. Here, prices are displayed but it is worth bargaining. Just along the road is the famous Friendship Store, which has several floors of tourist souvenirs, laquerware, jewellery and Chinese tea.

Collectors of antiques should make for Liulichang, a few minutes’ walk south of Heping Men subway station. This market is crammed with ancient-style shops, reconstructed in a traditional way and stocking a bewildering array of antiques and curios. Note that antiques over 100 years old are marked with a red wax seal and an export licence must be issued in order to take them out of the country. The weekend market at Panjiayuan Jiuhuo Shichang is an enormous, open-air place with great bargains on items such as jade, wood panelling, pottery and bric-a-brac.

Most shops are open daily 0900-2200.

Culture

Many Chinese art forms date back centuries but most struggled to survive following the Communist revolution of 1949. Artists were organised into associations, which meant that the Party controlled every aspect, both creative and administrative. Travelling theatre, music and dance groups were created to take the Party message to the masses together with teams of projectionists showing reels of ideological films. Plays written before the 1950s, films with human interest and the Beijing Opera were suppressed and their creators persecuted until the end of the Cultural Revolution in the 1970s. Now many pre-Cultural Revolution art forms are performed regularly, as well as modern versions, which celebrate ancient and current culture, as well as ethnic differences.

As to be expected from a capital city, Beijing is leading the country’s cultural revival, and a crop of teahouses have recently reappeared in the capital that show a variety of Beijing Opera, martial arts and acrobatics and serve delicious selections of tea and cakes.

Western influences have been embraced to transform traditional Chinese art forms into contemporary pieces and the theatrical scene is changing fast. A recent development has been a fashion for Chinese translations of Western plays and home-grown dramatists are experimenting with foreign styles, such as Absurdist theatre, or emulating influential playwrights, such as Samuel Beckett. In addition, Western music and dance is now performed, and the city often receives visits from international acts. The Beijing Concert Hall has a mix of Chinese and Western music, whereas the Zhengyici Theatre has mainly Chinese productions.

Also worth seeing is traditional Chinese acrobatics, which have existed in China for 2,000 years and cover anything from gymnastics and animal tricks to magic and juggling. The style may be vaudeville, but performances are spectacular, with truly awe-inspiring feats.

Music: The Beijing Concert Hall, 1 Bei Xinhua Jie (tel: (10) 6605 5812), just off Xi Chang’an Jie, is dedicated to classical music, with regular concerts by Beijing’s resident orchestra, as well as visiting orchestras from the rest of China and overseas. Beijing Opera is still very popular and the best place to see it is Zhengyici Theatre, 220 Xiheyan Dajie, Xuanwu district (tel: (10) 6315 1649), a short walk from Heping Men subway station. Built in the 17th century, the theatre was originally a Ming Dynasty temple before being converted by some of the founding artists of the Beijing Opera company.

Theatre: Spoken drama was only introduced into Chinese theatres this century. The People’s Art Theatre in Beijing became its best-known home and, before the Cultural Revolution, staged European plays that had a clear social message. The last decade has seen a total turnabout, with the People’s Art Theatre, reassembled in 1979, establishing its reputation with a performance of Arthur Miller’s Death of a Salesman. They and other companies perform at the Beijing People’s Art Theatre (in the Capital Theatre), 22 Wangfujing Dajie (tel: (10) 6525 0123).

Teahouses: Traditional theatre, such as story-telling to musical accompaniment, magic shows and acrobatics, takes place daily at the Lao She Chaguan, 2nd Floor, Da Wancha Building, 3 Qian Men Xi Jie (tel: (10) 6303 6830), and at the Tianqiao Happy Teahouse, 113 Tianqiao Nandajie (tel: (10) 6303 9013).

Acrobatics: The most popular venue is the Wan Sheng Theatre, Beiwei Lu, just west of the Tianqiao Happy Teahouse (tel: (10) 6303 7449). There are also nightly shows at the Chaoyang Theatre (also known as the Heaven & Earth Theatre), 36 Dongsanhuan Bailu, Chaoyang District (tel: (10) 6507 2421/1818). Performances at all venues start at 1915.

Film: Beijing cinemagoers are beginning to move on from a seemingly insatiable appetite for kung fu movies, and taking seriously the often controversial movies emerging from a new wave of younger film-makers. Foreign films are mainly dubbed and carefully censored by the authorities before they are put on general release and a constant supply of Hong Kong hit movies and Korean rom-coms is readily available. A popular, central cinema is the Capital Cinema, 46 Xi Chang’an Jie (tel: (10) 6605 5510). The Sun Dong An Cinema City, 138 Wangfujing Dajie (tel: (10) 6528 1988), shows major films from the USA.

Beijing’s appeal for film directors as a sweeping, cinematic panorama was most brilliantly demonstrated by Bernardo Bertolucci in his famous 1987 epic, The Last Emperor. Set in an old Beijing bathhouse, which is threatened by developers who want to turn it into a shopping complex, Zhang Yang’s 1999 film, Shower, epitomises the tension between tradition and the dictates of commerce in contemporary Beijing. Farewell My Concubine (1993) is a stunning epic spanning half a century of modern Chinese history including the Cultural Revolution and is about the relationship between two friends growing up in the world of Beijing Opera. It was a triumph internationally for the director Chen Kaige. An extremely funny film set in modern-day Beijing is Sorry Baby (1999) directed by Feng Xiao Gang, about a feud between a wealthy businessman and his driver. Wang Xiaoshuai’s 2001 hit, Beijing Bicycle (Shiqisui de Zixingche) is unerringly simple and uncomplicated, yet its masterful cinematography earned it the Silver Bear award at the Berlin Film Festival.

Cultural Events: The Chinese New Year, which takes place either in late January or early February, is the most important festival of the year. The build-up to the festival is as frenzied as Christmas is in the West, with parties, the exchanging of gifts, and streets and houses decorated with lights. Most Chinese celebrate the start of the New Year with their families. International Labour Day on 1 May also heralds a week-long holiday. The Mid-Autumn Festival in September or early October is celebrated by displaying lanterns in various shapes, such as animals, and by eating moon cakes made of ground lotus, sesame and egg.

Literary Notes: There is a good joke in the most recent novel by the Chinese-American writer, Amy Tan – The Bonesetter’s Daughter (2001). A Chinese character in the book gives the following dismissive appraisal to a Westerner who is enthralled by Beijing’s Forbidden City: ‘In those day, so many thing forbidden, can’t see. Now everyone pay money see forbidden thing. You say this forbidden that forbidden, charge extra.’ This epitomises much of the current Chinese attitude towards Beijing where reverence towards the city because of its history and tradition is put very much to the effort of making money.

Numerous highly acclaimed contemporary works of fiction that explore China’s tumultuous history and the impact of the Cultural Revolution have become international bestsellers, notably Half of Man is Woman (1985), an autobiographical account of life in a labour camp by Zhang Xiangliang. Heralded as the Chinese Milan Kundera, Xianliang was born in Nanjing in 1936 and educated in Beijing. Other celebrated novels include Wild Swans (1991) by Jung Chan and Amy Tan’s The Joy Luck Club (1989). Lu Xun (1881-1936) is celebrated as the father of modern Chinese literature, and A Madman’s Diary (1918) is considered the first story written in modern, colloquial Chinese – namely in the language spoken by the masses as opposed to the classic literary language. Lu Xun embraced the early Communist movement and is still regarded as a hero by the authorities. The small house he inhabited in Beijing from 1912 to 1926 can be seen next to a museum (open Tue-Sun 0900-1530) dedicated to his life and work at a hutong just off Fucheng Men Dajie, near Fucheng Men subway station.

However, for a contemporary Beijing-based writer who marks a break from the serious tradition of political and social responsibility favoured by the Communist Party, there is Wang Shuo. Dubbed the ‘Chinese Jack Kerouac’ for his sharp mockery of almost every aspect of Chinese life, delivered in a savvy Beijing slang, his novel Please Don’t Call Me Human (1989) is perhaps the best introduction to his work for foreign readers. Written in the aftermath of the Tiananmen massacre, the book wickedly lampoons the state security apparatus and its need to bend the individual into serving the interests of the nation.

Nightlife

Beijing’s nightlife and entertainment scene is undergoing something of a revolution, as modern Beijingers seek to offload disposable income their parents never even dreamt of. Throughout the 1990s, numerous new nightclubs were set up to cater for a chic and affluent clientele and new ones continue to open all the time. The music at these Western-style clubs covers a wide range, with techno and house being hugely popular and international ‘superstar Djs’ performing with increasing regularity. Many nightclubs are open nightly until the small hours of the morning and charge an entrance fee of RMB100-200.

The most popular bar area (heavily frequented by foreigners) is Sanlitun, in the northeast of the city. The bars here all offer draught beer at Western prices, and are generally much livelier than any of the hotel bars. Other places can be found on Xinjiang Kou, a street full of restaurants, which is the place to go on hot summer nights. New bar districts are opening up all the time, particularly in the lakeside area of Houhai and along Lotus Lane on the northern bank of the Ba River. Most bars open until about midnight but are liveliest around 2200.

Details of events (including gigs) are listed in the city’s guide Beijing This Month (website: www.btmbeijing.com) or on the Xianzai Beijing website (www.xianzai.com). The two best city listings magazines are That’s Beijing (monthly; website: www.thatsbeijing.com) which also publishes the extremely helpful Insiders’ Guide to Beijing handbook, and City Weekend (every two weeks; website: www.cityweekend.com.cn). Time Out Beijing began publishing a monthly edition in October 2004.

Bars: Situated on the Sanlitun is the ever-popular Poachers Inn, 43 Bei Sanlitun Lu. Deservedly Beijing’s best-known bar, this ex-pat watering hole is more English than most pubs in England, however, it is accessible and fun. It is very popular on Thursdays, when a jazz band plays, and on Friday and Saturday when the attached club holds a disco. Durty Nellie’s is a popular Irish pub on Sanlitun Lu with live music and great beer. Very popular with ex-pats is the Goose and Duck Pub, again at the west gate of Chaoyang Park, which has a beer garden out front. Artifacts, at the east gate of Chaoyang park, serves great mojitos, sangria and ‘unusual’ tea in a laid-back atmosphere, while Alfa (5 Xingfu Yicun, opposite Workers Stadium north gate) is the pulsating home to notorious party organisers, 010. World of Suzie Wong, 1A Nongzhanguan Lu by the west gate of Chaoyang Park, is an elegant and stylish faux-1930s throwback that serves killer daiquiris.

Casinos: Casinos are illegal in China.

Clubs: Undoubted king of clubs is the cavernous Vics, inside Workers Stadium north gate, which mixes up a nightly thrash of soul, RnB, pop and reggae and is popular with visiting celebs and music stars. JJ’s, 74-76 Xinjiekou Bei Dajie packs ‘em in at weekends and features lasers, a sci-fi theme and scantily clad Russian dancing girls; imported British DJs play a mixture of techno, reggae and house. Kiss Super Club, 35 Xue Yun Lu, is an enormous club with two dance floors and a booming sound system pumping out house and techno. Tango, South Gate of Ditan Park, is the latest superclub to open and much is expected form this suave yet sizeable new player.

Live Music: Live bands perform nightly at the May Flower Bar, Chang’an Boulevard, playing mainly pop songs in Chinese, occasionally English. The CD Café, East Third Ring Road, was once devoted to jazz but now offers more underground music. Offering a more authentic experience, the Sanwei Bookstore, 60 Fuxingmennei Dajie, features light jazz and Chinese folk music and is popular with ex-pats and arty Chinese.

City Statistics

Location: Beijing special municipality, China.
Country dialling code: 86.
Population: 14,000,000 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT + 8 (GMT + 7 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: - 3°C (27°F).
Average July temp: 26°C (79°F).
Annual rainfall: 890mm (34.7 inches).

Special Events

Chinese New Year, late Jan/early Feb, throughout the city
International Women’s Day, 8 Mar, throughout the city
Beijing International Kite Festival, Apr, various venues
‘Meet in Beijing’ Arts Festival, Apr/May, various venues
International Labour Day, 1 May, throughout the city
Anniversary of the Founding of the Chinese Communist Party, 1 Jul, throughout the city
Anniversary of Founding of People’s Liberation Army, 1 Aug, throughout the city
China Open Tennis tournament, mid-Sep for two weeks, Beijing Centre
Mid-Autumn Festival, late Sep, throughout the city
National Day, 1 Oct, throughout the city
Beijing International Marathon, mid-Oct, city centre
Beijing Fashion Week, mid-Nov, throughout the city

Cost of Living

1 Chinese Renminbi (or Yuan) RMB1 = £0.07; US$0.12; C$0.14; A$0.16; ¬0.10
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005