World City Guide

Bergen, the ‘Gateway to the Fjords’, is Norway’s second city and one of its most attractive. It has a delightful natural setting, with seven imposing mountains surrounding it on three sides and the island-dotted North Sea on the fourth. On a clear day, the approach to the city by sea or air is a rewarding experience – the rocky islets and towering mountains form a dramatic backdrop for the rainbow-painted houses clinging to the sides of the mountains all the way down to the waterfront.

The Viking king Olav Kyrre founded Bergen in 1070. With its fortunate combination of sheltered harbour and proximity to rich fishing grounds, it quickly established itself as one of Norway’s most important towns. By the beginning of the 13th century, it was Norway’s capital, a status it enjoyed until the late 1200s, when the seat of government transferred to Christiania – the city nowadays known as Oslo. Economic success was further assured in the 14th century when the Hanseatic League, a German organisation created to promote trade between the eastern and western parts of Northern Europe, chose Bergen as one of its four main bases. The League’s offices and warehouses, the Bryggen (wharfside), are the only survivors of the four original Hanseatic Kontors (trading offices). In 1980, UNESCO designated this district a Cultural World Heritage Site. By 1600, the city was Scandinavia’s largest, with 15,000 inhabitants.

Despite the dismantling of the Hanseatic League in the 18th century, Bergen remained a successful trading port. Greater prosperity came with the discovery of North Sea oil in the 1960s, which led to a new influx of foreign nationals – more than 5,000 currently live and work in the city, the largest single group being the British.

Bergen’s long history as Norway’s leading port and latterly as an international business and tourist centre lends it a more cosmopolitan air than other major Norwegian cities. The atmosphere around the Torget (market), the focal point of the city’s social life, with its eclectic mix of restaurants, cafés and pubs, reflects this. Additionally, although fishing, shipping and other maritime industries still play a major role in Bergen’s economy, international tourism is becoming an increasingly significant income source.

The locals (known as Bergenseners) are friendly and widely regarded as the most outgoing of Norwegians. They are immensely proud of their city, its history and traditions. Bergen is a city generously endowed with museums, galleries and other cultural institutions – the arts figure large in the city’s life and it was a European City of Culture in 2000.

The peak tourist season runs from May to September, although it is just as likely to rain then as at any other time. The area has the dubious honour of experiencing one of Europe’s highest average annual rainfall counts. However, this should not spoil a visit completely, as there is plenty to do indoors. Between November and March, the rain turns to sleet or snow but even the worst winter weather is not harsh by Norwegian standards – temperatures rarely sink below -5ºC (23ºF).

Getting There By Air

Bergen Airport, Flesland (BGO)
Tel: 5599 8000.

Bergen’s well-equipped, one-terminal airport is the second most important in Norway (after Oslo). It lies 19km (12 miles) south of the city centre. As there are no public announcements over the public address system, travellers are advised to keep an eye on departure boards.

Major airlines: SAS Braathens (tel: 8152 0000 (bookings); website: www.sasbraathens.no) is the main operator. Ryanair, Finnair, Lufthansa and KLM also provide services. Flight information can be obtained from the airport information desk (tel: 5599 8155). International destinations served by direct flights include Amsterdam, Aberdeen, London (Gatwick and Stansted), Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Alicante and Copenhagen. Since September 2002, the new low-cost air carrier Norwegian Air Shuttle (tel: 8152 1815; website: www.norwegian.no) offers regular scheduled services from Bergen to several other Norwegian cities via Oslo at significantly lower prices than the established airlines.

Approximate flight times to Bergen: From London is 1 hour 50 minutes; from New York is 8 hours 50 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 50 minutes; from Toronto is 9 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours 50 minutes.

Airport facilities: There is an information office (tel: 5599 8155), a bank, a post office, automatic exchange machines and an ATM. Other facilities include a pharmacy, newsagent, duty-free and souvenir shops, baggage lockers and several restaurants, cafés and bars. Car hire is provided by Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz.

Business facilities: There are no airline business lounges. The De Syvfjell conference centre (tel: 5599 7400) has telephone and fax machines, an IBM-compatible computer and a meeting room for up to 30 people. The centre is open Monday to Friday 0800-2000.

Transport to the city: The journey into Bergen takes 40-50 minutes, depending on traffic conditions. The airport bus (tel: 177; website: www.flybussen.no) drops passengers at the bus station and at main hotels in town. Taxis to the centre are also available. Driving from the airport into the centre of Bergen is straightforward, as the R580 is well signposted to Sentrum (City Centre).

Getting There By Water

Due to the relatively mild Atlantic climate, Bergen has an ice-free harbour all year round; the passage between the harbour and the open sea is short and the fairway good. International ferry services dock at Skoltegrunnskaien. Onshore facilities include bunkering, showers, a launderette and power supply, which are available between May and September. Keys are available (a deposit and a fee are required) from the quayside Tourist Information Office.

Ferry services: The ferry terminal at Skoltegrunnskaien has basic facilities with a café and snack bar. Fjord Line (tel: 8153 3500 in Norway or (0191) 296 1313 in the UK; website: www.fjordline.com) operates a service from Bergen via Stavanger and Haugesund to Newcastle-upon-Tyne and back again, three times a week during the summer and twice-weekly during the winter. Fjord Line also operates year-round, thrice-weekly services connecting Bergen and Egersund with Hanstholm in Denmark. Smyril Line (tel: 5532 0970; website: www.smyril-line.fo) operates a service to and from Bergen, Shetland, the Faroe Islands and Iceland, once a week in the summer.

There is also an extensive network of domestic coastal services, including the Hurtigruten coastal steamer (website: www.hurtigruten.com) linking Bergen with other Norwegian ports and the North Cape. Many international cruise ships call at Bergen during the summer months.

Transport to the city: The city is built around the harbour with all central areas in easy walking distance. Taxis and buses are available but not usually necessary unless travelling away from the immediate city centre, or unless carrying heavy luggage or it is raining heavily!

Getting There By Road

The letter ‘E’ (plus a number) designates main routes, while the letter ‘R’ (plus a number) indicates lesser roads. Traffic drives on the right and overtakes on the left. The speed limit on motorways is usually 90kph (56mph), although in some places this increases to 100kph (57mph), while it is 80kph (50mph) outside towns, 50kph (31mph) in populated areas and 30kph (19mph) in certain residential streets. All passengers must wear seat belts. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. All vehicles must have dipped headlights on at all times. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.02%. Overseas national driving licences and International Driving Permits are both valid in Norway. Third-party insurance is compulsory and a Green Card is recommended.

NAF, the Norwegian Automobile Federation (tel: 2234 1400; website: www.naf.no), operates an emergency breakdown service which can be used by anyone who is a member of a major international motoring organisation.

Emergency breakdown service (toll free):
NAF 8100 0505

Routes to the city: Bergen is connected to Oslo by the E16, which runs Bergen–Voss–Aurland–Lærdalsøyri–Fagernes–Hønefoss–Sandvika. From Sandvika, the road joins the E18 into the centre of Oslo. This is the fastest route to Oslo, with the world’s longest road tunnel (24.5km/15 miles) linking Aurland with Lærdal and cutting out the need for a ferry. There is a shorter route, via the R7 through Geilo, but this involves some precipitous climbs across the Hardangervidda Pass (1250m/4125ft) and a ferry crossing from Brimnes to Bruravik, so it is slower.

From Oslo, it is possible to continue on the E18 to Orebro, from where the E20 leads to Stockholm.

The route to and from Trondheim is rather more complicated, with several alternatives of varying suitability according to the time of year (many mountain roads are closed due to snow from October to May). The shortest route to Bergen from Trondheim (summer only) is south via the E6 across the Doverfjell range, turning west onto the vertiginous N15 at Otta and proceeding via Lom to Sogndal, from where the E39 links with Lavik, where a ferry crosses Sognefjorden to Oppedal. From there, the E39 continues south to Bergen. In winter, it is easier to travel via Oslo using the E6 and E16.

Driving times to Bergen: From Oslo – 8.5 hours; Trondheim – 15 hours; Stockholm – 17 hours.

Coach services: Nor-way Bussekspress (tel: 8154 4444; website: www.nor-way.no) operates services between Oslo and Bergen, with up to five services in each direction daily. The journey takes between 10 and 11 hours. Seats cannot be pre-booked. The Central Bus Station is located at Strømgaten 8. Route information is provided by Rutetelefonen (tel: 5555 9070 from abroad or 177 within Bergen). There is a free connection between Bergen bus station and the city centre.

Getting There By Rail

Norwegian State Railways (NSB) (tel: 8150 0888 (booking line in Norway); website: www.nsb.no (online booking is available in Norwegian or English)) operates clean and comfortable, although often rather slow, services. Bergen Jernbanestasjon (Bergen Railway Station), Strømgaten 4 (tel: 5596 6900), has a small shop and café/restaurant.

Rail services: Up to six services run daily in each direction between Oslo and Bergen, with a journey time of up to eight hours. These include a sleeper service every night except Saturday. A faster train called Signatur has cut the journey time on some services to about 6 hours 30 minutes. Heavy luggage is best sent in advance and seats on express and Signatur services must be reserved before travelling.

The ScanRail Pass (website: www.scanrail.com) offers 21 days of unlimited travel on railways and selected ferries throughout Scandinavia. Inter Rail tickets are valid in Norway and Bergen is linked to other Scandinavian cities and destinations in Europe via Oslo.

Transport to the city: Bus 100 is a free service for rail passengers that links the station, bus station and the city centre (Olav Kyrresgate).

Getting Around

Public Transport
A travel information service operated by Rutetelefonen (tel: 5555 9070 from abroad or 177 within Bergen) provides advice on all aspects of public transport in the city. The Rutetelefonen office, providing public transport maps, is at Strømgaten 8.

The main bus operator in Bergen is Gaia Reiser (tel: 5555 4400 or 5559 3270, 24-hour information; website: www.gaiatrafikk.no). Buses operate daily 0600-0000, but services to outlying parts vary greatly, so it is best to check details before setting off. Bergen is divided into zones and bus tickets are priced accordingly. Night buses operate on Friday and Saturday nights until 0400 and are considerably more expensive. The Bergen Card (see Passes in Tourist Information) permits free daytime bus travel within the city limits.

More than 20 ferries operate out of Bergen to outlying settlements around the fjords. These tend to be used by the locals, while the express catamaran run by Flaggruten (tel: 5523 8700; website: www.hsd.no) attracts the tourists. This company operates a number of services and day trips linking Bergen with other coastal towns and the fjords. A passenger ferry crosses Bergen harbour from Dreggekaien to Munkebryggen Monday to Friday.

Taxis
Most taxis look like any other private saloon car but are identifiable by a sign on the roof. Taxis with an illuminated sign can be hailed on the street. All are registered and very safe. Meters indicate the fare but there is a small extra charge for luggage. Taxis can be ordered by telephone (tel: 07000 (instant service) or 5599 7010 (advance bookings); website: www.bergentaxi.no). Corporate bookings can now be made in advance via the website. A short ride within the city costs around NOK65 but this varies according to the time of day. Taxis cost more after 1500 and on weekend evenings. An additional charge is made for pre-booked trips. There are permanent taxi ranks at Bryggen, Strandkaien and Vågsallmenningen (by the main Tourist Information Office). It is common practice to tip about 10% of the total fare.

Driving in the City
A toll, ostensibly financing road improvement schemes, is levied on all cars entering Bergen Monday to Friday 0600-2200 (excluding public holidays). When driving, visitors should anticipate vehicles pulling out from side turnings on the right – Norway still operates a ‘priority from the right’ rule except on designated ‘priority’ routes indicated by yellow diamond signs. Roundabouts can also be hazardous, as Norwegian drivers generally do not indicate their intentions before entering them.

Bergen is a relatively straightforward city to drive around. There is a one-way system in the city centre but only a small area (part of Ole Bulls plass and Torgalmenningen) is pedestrianised. Rush hours are Monday to Friday 0700-0830 and 1530-1630.

There are around 4,500 parking places in central Bergen. Full details are available on the online map (website: www.bergensentrum.no). There are three indoor car parks close to the town centre. Bygarasjen, Vestre Strømkai (tel: 5556 8870), is open 24 hours, provides parking for over 2,200 cars and is a five-minute walk from the centre. The other two (short stay with limited opening hours) are Citypark, Markeveien 7, and Parkeringshuset, Rosenkrantzgaten 4. City-centre prices start at NOK5 for 20 minutes. Parking is free overnight, all day Sunday and after 1000 on Saturdays.

Car Hire
Regulations about the age of the person hiring the car tend to differ between hire companies but generally drivers must be over 21 years old and have held a licence for a minimum of one year. The deposit must be paid with a credit card. Insurance is compulsory and is included in the cost of the car hire. Major providers include Avis, Lars Hillesgate 20A (tel: 5555 3955; website: www.avis.no), Budget, Storetveitveien 58 (tel: 5527 3990; website: www.budget.no), Europcar, Nygårdsgaten 59B (tel: 5536 7000; website: www.europcar.com), and Hertz, Nygårdsgaten 89 (tel: 5596 4070; website: www.hertz.no).

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Bicycle and scooter hire are not available in Bergen. Furthermore, the hills are so steep that it is not an ideal location for cycling. Motorcycle hire is available from Budget (see Car Hire above).

Business

Business Etiquette
Meetings are normally arranged from 0800 in offices, alternatively in restaurants for early afternoon appointments. Visitors should always be punctual (neither early or late) and wear either a suit or a jacket and tie, even though Norwegians are generally pretty informal in their dress. If a late-morning meeting is arranged, it is good practice to issue a lunch invitation – whoever extends the invitation usually pays for the meal. Traditionally, lunch is a light snack, but in a business context, it may involve a more substantial meal.

English is widely spoken, as is some French and German, and in the business community, the English is generally of a very high standard. Normal business hours are 0800 to 1600, with employees leaving their offices promptly to return home for middag (dinner), eaten at around 1700. However, an invitation to either dine out or eat at the home of a business colleague will often be scheduled slightly later. Criticism of, or jokes about peoples, cultures or systems should generally be avoided as many Norwegians pride themselves on their ‘political correctness’.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Bergen is situated around the historic harbour area. The centre has a fairly compact layout and most areas of interest are within walking distance. Bryggen (the wharf area) is right in the middle of the quayside close to the fish market. Despite its small scale there is plenty to keep the visitor amused, with many of the key attractions focusing on the city’s natural setting and beautiful surroundings. There is a funicular and a cable car, which carry visitors to the summit of two of Bergen’s mountains to enjoy spectacular views. Boat trips to the fjords are also popular. The local architecture, particularly the Hanseatic Wharf of Bryggen and the Bergenseners’ brightly painted wooden homes, provides great photo opportunities. If, as is often the case, it happens to be raining, there are numerous museums covering topics as diverse as fishing, the Norwegian Resistance in World War II and the Bergen Schools Museum, which opened at Lille Øvregate in 2002 (website: www.bsm.museum.no). There are also several good art galleries, particularly along the southern bank of the Lille Lungegårdsvann lake. Walkers around the city should be prepared for some steep climbs, as Bergen is very hilly.

Tourist Information
Bergen Turistinformasjon (Bergen Tourist Information)
Vågsallmenningen 1
Tel: 5555 2000. Fax: 5555 2001.
E-mail: info@visitbergen.com
Website: www.visitbergen.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-2200 (Jun-Aug); 0900-2000 (May and Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-1600 (Oct-Apr).

During summer, there is an additional information office by the harbour at Skoltegrunnskaien and another all year at Flesland Airport.

Passes
The Bergen Card allows free bus travel within the city limits, discounted parking and free or discounted admittance to many of Bergen’s museums and attractions, sightseeing tours and entertainment venues. A 24-hour Bergen Card costs NOK170 for an adult and NOK70 for children (3-16 years); a 48-hour card is NOK250 for an adult and NOK100 for children. The card can be purchased at the Tourist Information Office, the railway station, the Express Boat Terminal, the Montana Youth Hostel and many hotels and camping sites.

Key Attractions

Fløibanen Funicular Railway
The Fløiban has been carrying people 320m (1,050ft) up the Fløyfjell Mountain for more than 80 years – a one-way trip takes about eight minutes. The views over the city and offshore islands from the summit are spectacular. There is a restaurant (summer only) and shops at the top, as well as mountain walkways.

Vetrlidsalmenningen 23A
Tel: 5533 6800.
Website: www.floibanen.no
Transport: A few minutes’ walk from the harbourside.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0730-2400 (2300 Sep-Apr), Sat 0800-2400 (2330 Sep-Apr), Sun 0900-2400 (daily until 2300 Sep-Apr). Extra services at peak times.
Admission charge.

Ulriksbanen Cable Car
Every seven minutes, the Ulriksbanen Cable Car transports passengers 642m (2,106ft) up to the summit of Mount Ulriken, the highest of Bergen’s seven mountains. From the top, there are panoramic views of the surrounding area. A popular four-hour walk leads to the summit of Mount Fløien.

Haukelandsbakken 40
Tel: 5520 2020.
Website: www.ulriken.no
Transport: A double-decker shuttle bus runs every 30 minutes from the Tourist Information Office in the city (daily 0915-2045 May-Sep; weekends only in good weather Oct-Apr). Otherwise, bus 2, 4 or 7 leave from the main post office or bus 50 from Bryggen.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200 (summer); 1000-1700 (winter).
Admission charge.

Bryggen (Wharfside)
In 1980, UNESCO listed Bergen’s Hanseatic Wharf area as one of the world’s most significant examples of the history and culture of a medieval settlement. Although many of the buildings were ravaged by fire through the centuries, they have been carefully restored to their original state. Today, Bryggen is a lively mix of restaurants, cafés and artists’ workshops. At the eastern end is the Torget, Bergen’s picturesque market where fish, fruit, vegetables, flowers, handicrafts and souvenirs are sold. The market is open Monday-Friday 0700-1600 (Thursday until 1900) and Saturday 0700-1500. Slightly reduced hours operate outside the peak season.

Hanseatiske Museum
The Hanseatic Museum is housed in one of the oldest wooden buildings in Bryggen. It was razed to the ground in 1702 but subsequently rebuilt. Furnished in 18th-century style, it provides an insight to life at that time as lived by a wealthy Hanseatic merchant.

Finnegårdsgate 1A
Tel: 5554 4690.
Website: www.hanseatisk.museum.no
Transport: A few minutes’ walk from the Torget.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Jun-Aug); 1100-1400 (Sep-May).
Admission charge.

Bryggens Museum
After the destruction of several Hanseatic houses in 1955, archaeologists excavated the area and unearthed the remains of the oldest settlement ever discovered in Bergen (dating from the 12th century). This museum was built around the remains and houses various artefacts, including traditional costumes. Collections include runic inscriptions, ceramics and other items illustrating commerce, shipping, cultural activities, handicrafts and everyday medieval life. Temporary exhibitions are also staged here.

Dreggsallmenning 3
Tel: 5558 8010.
Website: www.uib.no/bmu
Transport: A few minutes’ walk from the Torget.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (May-Aug); Mon-Fri 1100-1500, Sat 1200-1500 and Sun 1200-1600 (Sep-Apr).
Admission charge.

Akvariet I Bergen (Bergen Aquarium)
On the tip of the peninsula, the Bergen Aquarium contains one of the finest and most extensive collections of marine fauna in Europe. Seventy tanks and three outdoor pools are complemented by an extension containing a realistic nesting cliff, open-plan tanks, an exhibition and video facilities. There are also new sections covering marine industry and polar sealife, while a major new exhibition featuring amphibians and aquatic reptiles was opened early in 2002.

Nordnesbakken 4
Tel: 5555 7171.
Website: www.akvariet.com
Transport: Bus 11 (or a 20-minute walk) from the city centre; or a ferry every 15 minutes from Torget (May-Sep).
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (May-Sep); 1000-1800 (Oct-Apr).
Admission charge.

Mariakirken (St Mary’s Church)
This is Bergen’s oldest building (dating from the first half of the 12th century) and one of the country’s best examples of Romanesque architecture. Concerts are regularly performed here in the summer months.

Dreggen
Tel: 5531 5960.
Transport: Bus 5, 6, 9, 20, 21 or 22 from the city centre.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1100-1600 (mid-May to mid-Sep); Tues-Fri 1200-1330 (Oct-Apr).
Admission charge.

Rosenkrantz Tower/Håkon's Hall
Built in the 1560s by Erik Rosenkrantz, governor of Bergenhus, Bergen Castle once served as a fortified residence. It incorporates earlier structures including a 13th-century keep and is adjacent to the equally significant Håkon’s Hall, named for King Håkon Håkonsson, who ruled Norway from Bergen in the mid-1200s.

Bergenhus
Tel: 5531 4380/6067.
Website: www.hd.uib.no/haakon.htm
Transport: About 15 minutes’ walk from the Torget, along the north side of the harbour.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600 (Mid-May-Aug). Guided tours of both buildings run hourly 1200-1500 (Thurs 1500-1800), starting in the Hall.
Admission charge.

Gamle Bergen Museum (Old Bergen Museum)
Situated about seven minutes’ bus ride (see Tours of the City) from the city centre, this open-air museum features a collection of around 40 houses depicting life in Bergen as it was in late 18th, 19th and early 20th century. Entrance to the museum and park is free.

Elsesro, Sandviken
Tel: 5539 4300.
Website: www.gamlebergen.museum.no
Opening hours: Daily (mid-May-early Sep), guided tours hourly 1000-1700.
Free admission, charge for tours.

Further Distractions

Vestlandske Kunstindustrimuseum (Western Museum of Decorative Arts)
This museum has extensive exhibitions of historic and modern arts, crafts and design. The collections span 1,000 years and are drawn both from Norway and overseas. The museum also features one of Europe’s biggest collections of Buddhist temple sculpture and a regular programme of temporary exhibitions.

Nordahl Brunsgate 9
Tel: 5532 5108.
Website: www.vk.museum.no
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1600 (May-Sep); daily 1200-1600 (Sep-May).
Admission charge.

Damsgård Hovedgård (Damsgård Manor)
This lovely 1770s manor house is in Laksevåg, 3km (2 miles) west of Bergen city centre and is considered Europe’s best-preserved wooden building from this period. The gardens of 200 years ago have been recreated – both in terms of the plants and the overall design.

Alleen 29
Tel: 5594 0870.
Website: www.vk.museum.no
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700, with guided tours every hour from 1100-1600 (May-Aug).
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Bryggen by Foot (tel: 5558 8010; website: www.uib.no/bmu) offers a guided walking tour, which concentrates on the city’s 900-year history and includes visits to the Bryggens and Hanseatic museums. English-language tours depart daily from the Bryggens Museum at 1100 and 1300 between 1 June and 31 August. Admission includes entry to Bryggens Museum, the Hanseatic Museum and Schøtstuene Hanseatic Assembly Rooms. Alternative walking tours are available from the Bergen Guide Service, Valkendorfsgate 5 (tel: 5530 1060; website: www.visitbergen.com) for a similar cost.

Bus Tours
Gaia Reiser (tel: 5555 4454; website: www.gaiatrafikk.no) runs three regular tours daily in the peak season. These depart from the Tourist Information Office (see Tourist Information). The first option departs at 1000 and includes stops at Old Bergen Museum and Troldhaugen, while the second departs at 1400 and takes in Troldhaugen and the Fantoft Stave Church. Both tours last about three hours. The third option departs at 1600 and consists of a 90-minute tour of central Bergen.

Boat Tours
Run by Bergen Fjord Sightseeing (tel: 5525 9000; website: www.whitelady.no), these provide excellent views of Bergen’s colourful houses and of the seven mountains that surround the city. The MS White Lady leaves the Torget daily at 1430 between mid-May and the end of August. The trip lasts an hour. In June, July and August, three-hour tours aboard a vintage vessel depart daily from Bryggen at 1130, operated by Maritime Tours (tel: 5532 5560 or 5530 8080; website: www.maritimetours.no). The price includes a smoked salmon lunch.

Other Tours
Fonnafly (tel: 5534 6000; website: www.fonnafly.no) organises tailor-made trips from Sandviken, 1.5km (1 mile) north of Bergen. A 50-minute flight into the largest and most spectacular fjord of Hardanger is one of many possibilities. Bergen Taxis (tel: 07000; website: www.bergentaxi.no) offer sightseeing tours in and around the city for parties of up to four people. Drivers will conduct the tours in English, German or French.

Excursions

For a Half Day

The fjords: Bergen Fjord Sightseeing (tel: 5525 9000; website: www.whitelady.no) offers a four-hour tour around the fjords closest to Bergen. The boat departs from the pier at Torget at 1000 (1 May-30 September) and 1530 (July-August only). Numerous other waterborne tours are available, all can be booked through the Tourist Information Office (see Tourist Information).

Troldhaugen – The Edvard Grieg Museum: Designed by the composer Schack Bull, Edvard Grieg’s attractive Swiss-style house was built in the 1880s in lush surroundings on a promontory jutting out into Lake Nordås. Every summer, from 1885 until his death in 1907, Grieg lived and worked here. The hut in the garden where he composed many of his great works still contains his desk, upright piano and rocking chair. Up until 1985, concerts regularly took place here. They are now staged in the concert hall, Troldsalen, usually every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday in the summer. Troldhaugen is a 15-minute bus journey (any service from bays 19, 20 or 21 in Bergen bus station) from the city centre to Hop, then a 20-minute walk. The Edvard Grieg Museum is at Troldhaugveien 65, Paradis (tel: 5592 2992; website: www.troldhaugen.com). It is open daily with hours varying according to the time of year (closed 1 Dec-mid-Jan). Multilingual guided tours are offered. Admission charge.

For a Whole Day

Norway in a nutshell: This tour uses a combination of water- and land-based transport to create a full-day excursion through Norway. Highlights include the Flåm Railway which, with one of the steepest gradients in the world, twists and turns its way 900m (2,952ft) down to the fjord, passing snow-capped mountains and beautiful waterfalls. Once in Flåm, a boat winds through Aurlandsfjorden and Nærøyfjorden – one of Norway’s narrowest fjords. Trains depart daily all year round from the central railway station at Strømgaten 4. Departure times vary according to the season, but the total duration of the trip is 10-12 hours. There is no guide but a pamphlet explaining the route is provided with the ticket. Bookings can be made at the Tourist Information Office (see Tourist Information) or directly from Fjord Tours AS (tel: 5555 7660; website: www.fjord-tours.com).

Sport

Shopping

Bergen has long been a trading town and its shops range from the small and specialised to large department stores. Visitors should not expect too many bargains, however, and many locals regularly travel by ferry to shop in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England, because it is cheaper.

The pedestrianised streets of Gamle Strandgaten, Marken and Torgalmenningen have shops selling everything from trolls to antiques, handicrafts to Norwegian sweaters and ceramics to silver jewellery. Husfliden, in Vågsallmenningen, is one of the leading gift shops.

Normal shopping hours are weekdays 0900-1630 and Saturdays 0900-1500, although some shops stay open later (until around 1900) on Thursdays. During December, many shops also open on Sundays. Late-opening shopping centres include Bergen Storsenter, Kløverhuset and Galleriet, which are open weekdays until 2000 and Saturdays until 1800. At Galleriet, 70 shops and restaurants offer a wide choice of goods and menus at all price levels, while live music, entertainment and exhibitions are staged on the fifth floor.

Torget, where fish, fruit, vegetables, flowers, handicrafts and souvenirs are sold, is open Monday to Friday 0700-1600 and Saturday 0700-1500 (Thursday until 1900 in the summer). Kjøttbasaren, Bergen’s restored meat market, dating back to 1887, is the city’s epicurean centre, with various places to eat and nine delicatessens.

There is also a shopping complex at Vestkanten, next to the Vannkanten leisure centre, about 20 minutes by bus 9 or 10 to the west of Bergen city centre.

VAT, known as Merverdiavgift (MVA) in Norway, is currently charged at 24% and is included in all retail prices (a reduced rate applies to food items). Many shops in Bergen offer VAT refunds for overseas visitors, of up to 50%. To claim a refund, visitors need to collect a form from the shop at the time of purchase then submit this either at the tax refund office in the airport or at the bureau de change on the ferry.

Culture

Bergen is proud of its long-established cultural tradition. In addition to internationally acclaimed musicians, such as the late Edvard Grieg (composer of the Peer Gynt Suite), Harald Sæverud and their literary compatriots Henrik Ibsen and Ludvig Holberg, Bergen also provided the backdrop for the landscapes of J C Dahl.

Today, Bergen has a lively cultural scene. Music and the arts are very popular and the public is well catered for with a number of venues and events. There is an active annual programme of festivals that cover classical, rock and jazz music, theatre and film. Bergen Tourist Information promotes Bergen as ‘Kulturby’ (City of Culture).

Tickets for most events are available direct from the venue of from Ticketmaster (website: www.ticketmaster.no).

Music: The Bergen Filharmoniske Orkester (Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra), which dates back to 1765, gives concerts every Thursday between September and June and occasionally on Friday and Saturday in Grieghallen (the Grieg Hall), Edvard Grieg plass 1 (tel: 5521 6170; website: www.grieghallen.no).

Edvard Grieg is the most famous composer to come out of Bergen, but another popular composer is Harald Sæverud whose piano pieces, Tunes and Dances from Siljustøl, celebrated the people, flora and fauna of the Bergen area. Concerts are performed at the Siljustøl Museum (tel: 5592 2992 or 5513 6000; website: www.siljustol.no), former home of the composer, on Sunday afternoons in July. It is about 12km (8 miles) from Bergen on bus route 30. The colourful and eccentric virtuoso violinist Ole Bull also lived near Bergen, in a fantasy palace he constructed on Lysøen Island.

Theatre: Den Nationale Scene (tel: 5554 9700; website: www.den-nationale-scene.no) has three theatres, staging Norwegian plays, musicals and light entertainment. The theatre’s history is intimately linked with that of Ibsen who was appointed resident ‘stage poet’ in 1851. The ‘Scandinavian Moliére’, Ludvig Holberg, was born in Bergen in 1684. Bergen Internasjonale Teater (BIT) stages both Norwegian and international plays and dance performances up to three times a month in Teatergarasjen, which is located at Nøstegaten 54 (tel: 5523 2235; website: www.bit-teatergarasjen.no).

Dance: Carte Blanche stages classical ballet and experimental dance at Danseteatret, Sigurdsgate 6 (tel: 5530 8680; website: www.ncb.no). Fana Folklore (tel: 5591 5240; website: www.fanafolklore.no) recreates a rural festival with a concert of old folk tunes in the 800-year-old Fana Church and during June, July and August provides traditional Norwegian festive food, followed by folk music, lively dancing and singing. Bergen Folklore (tel: 5558 8010) stages a one-hour programme of traditional Norwegian folk dances and music in Bryggens Museum every Tuesday and Thursday at 2100, from mid-June to late August.

Film: The success of films such as Nils Gaup’s Pathfinder (1987) and Berit Nesheims’s The Other Side of Sunday (1997), have led critics to talk of a new ‘Norwave’. All films in the two major cinemas are shown in their original language, with Norwegian subtitles (tel: 5556 9050 – reservations for both cinemas). Konsertpaleet (13 screens) is at Neumannsgate 3. Forum Kino is in Danmarksplass (website: www.filmweb.no/bergenkino).

Literary Notes: Late 19th- and early 20th-century literature (with its themes of political democratisation, social and cultural liberation and national independence) has been inextricably linked to the political and social development of Norway. The 1903 Nobel Laureate for Literature, Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, wrote his modern saga drama Lama Hulda while working as a theatre stage manager in Bergen in 1857-8. The powerful novels and the life of Amalie Skram (who lived in Denmark but was born in Bergen in 1846) provided the basis for a nine-hour-long theatrical performance in the city in 1992, as well as the material for the 1984 opera Amalie. In recent years, Bergen has inspired the novels of Gunnar Stålesen (born in the city in 1947).

Nightlife

As Bergen is so small, there is no particular nightlife district – although the most popular areas include Bryggen and Ole Bulls plass. Bars tend to close at around 0200, while the nightclubs (which usually charge an entrance fee of about NOK50 or more), stay open until about 0300. It is not necessary to dress up for a night out on the town as locals tend to dress casually. Consumption of beer and wine is legal from 18 years but spirits may not be consumed by the under-20s. Prices are high in bars, clubs and restaurants – a night on the town is not a cheap option in Norway (a beer can cost NOK60 or more).

The best sources on the web for information on nightlife are both Norwegian-language sites (www.ba.no, then click on the ‘Puls’ link or www.bergenpuls.no). The Tourist Information Office can provide information in English and its website (www.visitbergen.com) is also of help, while the Bergen Guide website (www.bergen-guide.com) offers some information in English.

Bars: Among the dozens of city centre bars, there are three of the now ubiquitous ‘Irish’ pubs; Scruffy Murphy’s, on Torget, The Harp Irish Bar, Bryggen, and Finnegan’s, Veiten 3, while The Scotsman, Valkendorfsgate, offer yet another type of theming. Fotballpuben, Vestre Torggate, and Champions Sportsbar, Strandgaten 6, are the gathering places for those wishing to watch football on TV. Live music is offered at many of Bergen’s pubs and bars at weekends.

Casinos: There are no casinos, as gaming is illegal in Norway. The only gambling officially permitted is through the state-run Norsk Tipping service, which covers horseracing, the National Lottery and football (website: www.norsk-tipping.no). Slot machines can also be found in every shopping centre and snack bar.

Clubs and Live Music: Mood, Vågsallmenning 16, used to be a bank, but it is now a café by day and a trendy bar by night. There is live music and dancing on Friday and Saturday. Rick’s Café og Salonger, Veiten 3, is a bar, disco and live music venue rolled into one. Miles Ahead, Torggaten, and C49, Christian Michelsensgate, feature dance DJs. The Logen in Ole Bulls plass stages revues and cabaret throughout the year. Nightclub Det Akademiske Kvarter (Academic Quarter), Olav Kyrresgate 49-53, is popular with students and promotes pop and rock concerts. It also stages jazz and classical performances. Madam Felle, Bryggen, offers jazz, blues, roots and gospel. Trendy Metro, at the Radisson SAS Hotel in Ole Bulls plass offers nightly entertainments, as does Night Flight at the Bergen Airport Hotel (hotel guests only). Rock fans can catch international acts at Hulen, Olaf Ryes Vei 48, on Fridays and Saturdays.

City Statistics

Location: Hordaland fylke (county), west coast of Norway.
Country dialling code: 47. There are no regional or city dialling codes in Norway.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; Scandinavian/European round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1ºC (34ºF).
Average July temp: 14ºC (57ºF).
Annual rainfall: 2,250mm (88 inches).

Special Events

Rock Festival, late Jan, city centre
Easter City Festival, various arts events and concerts, mid-Apr, city centre
Bergen Maritime Festival, late Apr, city centre
Bergen Music Festival (Ole Blues Festival), Apr-May, city centre (website: www.bergenfest.no)
Fana Folklore, traditional Norwegian life and culture, various dates May-Aug, Fana Church (website: www.fanafolklore.no)
Night Jazz Festival, late May, city centre (website: www.nattjazz.no)
Constitution Day, May 17
Bergen Gay Pride, May, parade throughout the city
Bergen International Festival, general arts event, late May, city centre (website: www.fib.no)
Dragon Boat Festival, early Jun, city centre
Fløien Concerts, mid-Jun-late Aug, Mount Fløien
European Senior Bowling Championships, late Jul, city centre venues
Bergen Folk Fair, traditional fairground entertainment, mid-Aug, Festplassen
Children’s Week, entertainment for the young, mid-Aug, city centre
Lost Weekend, Aug, big music festival on the island of Askoy just outside Bergen (website: www.lost-weekend.net)
Week of the Organ, mid-Sep, Domkirken (Cathedral)
Bergen Food Festival, mid-Sep, city centre (website: www.matfest.no)
Autumn Recitals at Troldhaugen, concerts at the home of Edvard Grieg, Sundays Sep-Nov, Troldhaugen (website: www.troldhaugen.com)
International Chamber Music Festival, late Sep, various venues in the city centre and at Mount Fløien
Tango Festival, song and dance, late Sep, city centre
International Film Festival, late Oct, city centre
Church Music Festival, mid-Nov, Domkirken (Cathedral)
Gingerbread City, world’s biggest gingerbread exhibition plus family events, mid-Nov-31 Dec, Galleriet Shopping Centre
Festival of Lights, 30 Nov, city centre (website: www.bergensentrum.no)

Cost of Living

1 Norwegian Kroner (NOK1) = £0.09; US$0.15; C$0.18; A$0.20; ¬0.13
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005