World City Guide

Mini Guide of Bologna

City Overview

Ask most people to name the first Italian city that comes into their head and few will trump out Bologna. That suits this city just fine. While the tourist hordes clog up Florence, Rome and Venice, Bologna remains relatively tourist free, letting the locals enjoy one of the highest standards of living in Italy unmolested. Founded by the Etruscans as Felsina, on the Po Plains in 600BC, the northeast Italian city was renamed Bononia by the Gauls, whose French overtones still can be heard in the local dialect. Bologna came to worldwide attention with the founding of the university in 1088, when two thousand students from all over Europe poured into the medieval commune. Porticoes supporting additional lodgings sprung up all over the city, to house the influx of newcomers and Bologna’s leitmotif was born. Today, 40km (25 miles) of ochre-hued arcades still shadow the streets – covered walkways that give Bologna its unique style.

The heart of Bologna is around the twin piazzas, Maggiore and Nettuno – a handsome public space sealed on all sides by medieval palazzi and the hulk of San Petronio. Here, amid the pigeons, the Bolognese come to shop, to pray, to chat and, of course, to demonstrate. Not just for the ochre colouring of the medieval buildings in the fading evening light is the city known as ‘Red Bologna’, with socialism and communism a major feature of Bolognese life, ever since determined partisan resistance in World War II. It comes as no surprise to learn that Bologna was the first Italian city ever to elect a communist council. The well-educated citizens of Bologna have never been afraid to voice their opinions and immerse themselves in all things cultural – a feature of civic life recognised in 2000, when the city was named a European City of Culture. Recently the former stock exchange has been converted into Italy’s largest multimedia library, in keeping with a city that well deserves its tag of La Dotta, ‘The Learned’.

In Bologna, however, a social conscience and cultural knowledge go hand in hand with a hearty appetite, with the city fully justifying its other moniker, La Grassa, which translates literally as ‘The Fat’, a reference to the seriousness with which the locals take Epicurean pursuits. It is something of a favourite joke among the Milanese and the Romans that only at mealtimes do the Bolognese fall silent. The local cuisine goes far beyond the world famous spaghetti bolognese (something the locals never eat – they call the sauce ‘ragu’ and would never mix it with spaghetti), with a wide range of culinary delights culled from the surrounding countryside, as well as some robust and interesting local wines.

Although summers are hot and generally dry, winters on the Emilia-Romagna plains can be cold affairs, with January being particularly inhospitable. The climate is moderate in spring and autumn, with few tourists, and these are the best times to visit, although even at the height of the season, tourist numbers seldom become too suffocating. July and August can be unbearably hot and stuffy and this is a good time for day trippers to head to the breezy Adriatic beaches that are less than an hour away.

Getting There By Air

Bologna-G Marconi International Airport (BLQ)
Tel: (051) 647 9615. Fax: (051) 647 9719.
Website: www.bologna-airport.it

Bologna airport is located six kilometres (four miles) northwest of the city centre. There are two passenger terminals. All arrivals are to terminal A. European and domestic departures use Terminal A, while international departures use terminal B. The airport was recently upgraded, increasing Bologna’s capacity to almost two million passengers per year.

Major airlines: Italy’s national airline, Alitalia (tel: (06) 65643 for international flights; website: www.alitalia.it), connects Bologna to all major Italian cities, including the intercontinental airports of Milan and Rome. Air France, British Airways, Continental Airlines and KLM operate flights to major European capitals and business centres. Budget carrier Go also connects Bologna with London Stansted.

Approximate flight times to Bologna: From London is 2 hours 10 minutes; from New York is 9 hours 35 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours and 50 minutes; from Toronto is 10 hours and 10 minutes and from Sydney is 20 hours 20 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a 24-hour bureau de change, bank, Help Phone service, restaurant, snack bars and a smattering of shops selling traditional Italian gifts. Avis, Europcar and Hertz provide car hire services.

Business facilities: Business Class travellers have access to two Marconi Club VIP lounges, which are located in both departure terminals. These are open from 0600 until the last evening flight. Facilities include TV, Internet connection, telephone, fax and a large selection of newspapers and magazines.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: The Aerobus (tel: (051) 290 290) runs to Bologna train station every 15 minutes 0600-2340 (journey time – approximately 20 minutes). Tickets cost ¬4.50 and are available for purchase on the bus. Taxis (tel: (051) 372 727) to the city centre cost ¬15-18, depending on traffic.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Italy has an excellent selection of motorways or autostrada (A), the main north–south link being the autostrada del sole, which links Milan with Reggio di Calabria, in the toe of Italy. Speed limits on motorways are 130kph (81mph) for cars of 1100cc or more and 110kph (68mph) for smaller cars and all cars when conditions are wet. All motorways are tolled and driving from Rome to Bologna will cost approximately ¬15. Travellers on a budget might prefer the strade statali (SS), which are often fast, multi-lane carriageways that are toll free. The speed limit on these roads is 110kph (68mph). Strade provinciale or strade bianchi are perfect for exploring Italy’s hidden countryside.

The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%, random breath tests can be imposed and there are severe penalties for drink driving. By law, both driver and passenger must wear their seatbelts, if fitted, or face an on-the-spot fine of ¬30. Speeding fines follow EU standards and are levied between ¬30 and ¬300, depending on the speed. Driving through a red light is fined at ¬60.50. The minimum age for driving is 18 and all those not in possession of an EU licence must carry an International Driving Permit. EU nationals taking their own car will need an International Insurance Certificate, also known as a Green Card (Carta Verde). Automobile Club Italiana – ACI (tel: (06) 4998) provides further information.

Emergency breakdown service:
ACI 116

Routes to the city: Bologna is linked to Milan, Florence and Rome by the A1. The A13 arrives directly from Venice and Padua and the A14 links Bologna to the coastal towns of Ravenna and Rimini.

Approximate driving times to Bologna: from Milan – 2 hours; Florence – 1 hour; Rome – 3 hours.

Coach services: There are over 30 coach service providers operating to and from Bologna’s recently revamped coach terminal, Autostazione di Bologna, Piazza XX Settembre 6 (tel: (051) 247 134), just around the corner from the train station. Coaches (pullman) from regional centres such as Ferrara and Modena arrive at this station. There are also long-distance services from Milan and Ancona and international services from London, Paris and Frankfurt. Facilities at the coach station include a restaurant, cashpoint, hairdressers and newsagent.

Getting There By Rail

The Italian state railway, Ferrovie dello Stato (tel: (147) 888 088; website: www.fs-on-line.com), is both economical and efficient. Bologna’s train station, Bologna Centrale, is located at Piazza Medaglie d’Oro, in the north of the city. Facilities in the station include car hire from Avis and Hertz, banks, bars, restaurants, newspaper stands and a pharmacy. Passengers must validate their tickets by stamping them in the orange machines, located on the platform, before boarding, to avoid having to pay a fine. Supplements might be charged, depending on the type of train taken (Diretto, Inter-regionale, Espresso, Intercity or Eurostar). Service and fare information is available on Ferrovie’s national rail enquiries hotline (tel: (147) 888 088).

Rail services: Bologna Centrale is one of Italy’s main crossroads for both national and international trains. Work is underway to quadruple the number of platforms and to build a second station, thus increasing the level of service and halving travel times on the main lines. At present, the fastest service linking Bologna with Milan (journey time – 2 hours), Florence (journey time – 1 hour), Rome (journey time – 3 hours) and Naples (journey time – 5 hours) is the high-speed Eurostar. The EuroCity train service links Bologna with more than 40 other European destinations including Paris, Basel and Brussels.

Transport to the city: The city centre is a brisk ten-minute walk along Via dell’Indipendenza or a short bus ride on bus 10, 25 or 30.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Bologna’s efficient bus system, run by the ATC – Trasporti Pubblici Bologna (tel: (051) 290 290; fax: (051) 290 291; website: www.atc.bo.it), has information booths in the train and coach stations and on Via Marconi. Bus maps are also available from the tourist office (see Sightseeing). On average, routes run daily between 0630 and 2300. Tickets cost ¬0.90 and allow the traveller to change buses or make a return journey within the hour. As it is with the trains (see Getting There By Rail), travellers must validate their bus tickets by punching them in the machine upon boarding the bus.

Better value is the ¬6.20 Citypass, which permits eight journeys (each punch covers the holder for one hour), or the Day Ticket, which costs ¬2.50 and is valid for 24 hours from the time of validation. A monthly pass costs ¬31. Tickets and passes can be purchased at tabacchi, bars, newspaper kiosks and tourist information offices.

Information on all ATC services is available from the ATC Call Centre (tel: (051) 290 290) daily 0700-2000.

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the street but rarely stop. It is better for tourists to hire them at taxi ranks (Piazza Maggiore and the train station) or to telephone the city’s taxi co-operative, Co.Ta.Bo (tel: (051) 372 727), or C.A.T. (tel: (051) 534 141).

Taxis in Bologna are expensive, with supplements for luggage and for travelling late at night (2200-0700) or on Sunday. If booking by telephone, passengers will be charged for the trip to the pick-up point. The minimum tariff is ¬3, with a charge of ¬0.80 per kilometre within the city. A taxi from the airport costs approximately ¬15-18. Taxi fares are calculated to include taxes and service – further tipping therefore is at the customer’s discretion.

Limousines
Luxury cars chauffeured by English-speaking drivers are provided by Essediesse, Via Jacopo della Lana 8 (tel: (051) 393 966; fax (051 429 1319; website: www.essediesse.com), and Linea Blu, Via Corazza 3 (tel: (051) 324 040; fax (051) 320 802; website: www.lineabluauto.it). The hire of a Mercedes 200 costs ¬20 per hour, with a 20% supplement after 2000.

Driving in the City
There is no real need for a car in Bologna’s compact city centre (centro storico) and parking can be tricky. The area is also closed to private cars 0700-2000 daily, including Sunday and public holidays. A special ticket, costing ¬4 per day, is available to guests staying in city hotels. This is obtainable from hotel management and allows the holder to park in the city centre from 0800-2400 on weekdays and holidays or in the area immediately around the city centre from 0800-1800 weekdays. It also allows for free transport on buses, valid for 24 hours and for one person. The hotel validates these tickets with a stamp stating date and time. To reach the city centre, drivers should follow the centro sign off the ring road (tangenziale), which links Bologna to the motorway. Full details of the city’s park and ride scheme, which operates at 11 major car parks outside the restricted area, is available from ATC (tel: (051) 290 290; website: www.atc.bo.it).

Parking in Bologna is currently in the midst of a major overhaul, with plans to use an Athens-style system, where cars with certain number plates are allowed in on alternate dates, although how this will affect tourists with their own or hired vehicles remains unclear.

Car Hire
Most major car hire companies have offices in the city, including Avis, Via Pietramellara 27d (tel: (051) 255 024; website: www.avis.com), and Hertz, Via G Amendola 16 (tel: (051) 254 830; website: www.hertz.com), as well at the airport. Drivers must be 23 and 25 years old respectively and carry either a valid EU licence or an International Driving Permit. Car hire in Bologna is expensive, costing an average of ¬200-320 per week. Basic insurance is included in the price of car hire, although extra cover can be purchased in order to avoid any excess charges in the case of an accident.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Bicycles and scooters are available for hire from Senzauto, at the train station in Piazza Medaglie d’Oro (tel: (051) 251 401; website: www.senzauto.com). Visitors should ask for ‘Noleggi Biciclette’ (bicycle hire). Prices start at ¬9 for 24 hours and ¬25 per 24 hours for scooters.

Business

Business Profile
Despite its reputation as a hotbed for socialism and even communism, Bologna is one of the richest cities in Italy. Its wealth is fuelled by myriad capitalist activities, from large-scale industrial projects in the suburbs, through to small businesses in the centre, with the city boasting the highest quota of small businesses per capita of any Italian city. Big names are also attracted to the city, although most headquarters will be located in Rome or Milan. Companies with a presence in the city include IBM, KPMG and Anderson Consulting. Youthful and progressive, Bologna also claims the highest percentage of graduates and the highest rate of female employment in Italy. Unemployment figures are low at 6.8%, compared to 10% on a national level (August 2002). Wealth flourishes in the city – the per capita income, 35% above the national average, is the highest in the country.

Early examples of technological innovation include the first silk-spinning machine – invented in Bologna before the industrial revolution – and the work of Guglielmo Marconi, pioneering inventor of the radio, although the great man may be turning in his grave at the lowly share price of the company these days. Today, the city continues to be a leader in mechanical engineering, exporting machines for packaging and agriculture around the world. Other key exports include food, clothes and luxury cars. However, the economy, for the most part, is centred on the service industry, which employs the majority of the city’s working population.

The business district is generally to the west of Via dell’ Independenza, the north–south artery that runs from the train station to the city centre. Bologna is one of the new corporate centres in the northeast, which are building their own mini-economies, mainly in the areas of IT and new technology. The fairground district, designed by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange in the 1960s, stylistically echoes the medieval centre of Bologna. As the fifth largest exhibition centre in Europe, it plays host to major international trade fairs and dictates the ebb and flow of the city’s economic life, with over 26 national and international expositions every year. Bologna hosts two fairs of worldwide importance – Arte Fiera, a market exhibition of contemporary art, in January, and the Children’s Book Fair, which involves some 1500 publishing houses, in April. There are a number of Internet cafes dotted around the city, including the centrally located Net Arena, Via de’ Giudei 3b (tel: (051) 220 850).

Business Etiquette
The Bolognese are among the most efficient and hospitable of Italy’s inhabitants and punctuality is respected. Normal business hours are 0900-1700. Business cards are commonly exchanged by way of introduction. Smart dress is appropriate, as is a high degree of formality – business visitors should always refer to Italian associates as Lei (the polite form of tu), unless informed to do otherwise. Although many executives speak French and some speak English, it is best for visitors to conduct business in Italian, if possible. Personal relationships are extremely important in business and Italians always appreciate a visitor who tries to speak their language, however poorly. Small talk is an essential part of any business meeting and leisurely lunches are a welcome element of Bolognese business. Although these tend to be pretty formal, business lunches can be peppered with alcohol. Dinners are less formal, although invitations to homes are not common.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
With a city centre encased within the remnants of its medieval walls, Bologna is perfect for wandering around on foot. A good way for new arrivals to get orientated with the city is to ascend the Torre degli Asinelli, one of the two towers that lean drunkenly at the foot of Via Rizzoli, just south of the old Jewish Ghetto, offering a composite view of the city’s red rooftops. On ground level, Piazza Maggiore and the connecting Piazza Nettuno form the city’s vibrant heart. This is where people-watching is as much of an attraction as the rusticated palaces and the unfinished facade of the Basilica di San Petronio, with the piazza just as active in winter as in summer. The city’s famous porticoes line Bologna’s streets like sentinel guards and provide a handy shelter for window shoppers. It is easy and often a pleasant pursuit to lose one’s bearings in the hotchpotch of medieval streets that radiate from Piazza Maggiore in a maze of cafes, fruit markets, bars and restaurants. The university area – the world’s first such institution – is northeast of the Two Towers. Energetic visitors can also walk the 666 arches to the hilltop Santuario de Madonna di San Luca and breathe in the fresh air from the Apennines. To the east are the Adriatic beaches, a perfect escape during the steamy summer months.

Tourist Information
Informazioni e Assistenza Turistica
Centro di Informazione Comunale, Palazzo d’Accursio at Piazza Maggiore 1
Tel: (051) 246 541. Fax: (051) 639 3171.
E-mail: touristoffice@comune.bologna.it
Website: www.comune.bologna.it/bolognaturismo
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000.

Other branches are located at the train station, open Monday-Saturday 0830-1930, and at the airport, open Monday-Saturday 0800-2000, Sunday 0900-1500.

Passes

The Biglietto Unico per I Musei (tel: (051) 203 040) allows free and/or discounted admission to the city’s many museums, depending on the museum in question. One-day passes costing ¬6 and three-day passes costing ¬8 are available for purchase at participating museums.

Key Attractions

Le Due Torri (Two Towers)
The Two Towers are among the city’s most recognisable landmarks. In the 12th and 13th centuries, the noble families of Bologna raised over 100 towers across the city in successive attempts to outdo each other. Of the 20 medieval skyscrapers that survive today, the Asinelli and the Garisenda towers are Bologna’s most famous. Standing at the end of Via Rizzoli, they lean precariously like a couple of proud old dowagers. The taller of the two, the 97.6m (320ft) Torre degli Asinelli (built either in 1109 or 1119), can be climbed and offers spectacular views of the city. Her stumpy companion, the 48m (157ft) Torre Garisenda, was cut down to size in the 14th century, at the request of Giovanni Visconti da Oleggio, when her stoop threatened to topple her.

Piazza di Porta Ravegnana
Transport: Bus 10, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 27, 29, 30, 37, 90 or 96.
Opening hours: Daily May-Sep 0900-1800; Oct-Apr 0900-1700.
Admission: ¬2.

Pinacoteca Nazionale (National Gallery)
The National Picture Gallery, tucked away under the arcades in Via Belli Arti, celebrates the city’s artistic and spiritual past from the 14th to the 16th century. Although often overlooked, the Counter-Reformation prompted an exceptional school of Bolognese artists, most notably Guido Reni and the Carracci brothers. Among the Italian old masters, Raphael’s Ecstasy of St Cecilia and El Greco’s Last Supper should not be missed.

Via Belli Arti 56
Tel: (051) 421 1984 or 420 9411 or 423 222. Fax: (051) 251 368.
E-mail: info@pinocotecabologna.it
Website: www.pinacotecabologna.it
Transport: Bus 20, 32, 33, 36, 37, 89, 93, 94 or 99.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1900.
Admission: ¬4 (concessions available).

Basilica di San Petronio (Basilica of St Petronius)
Named after the city’s patron saint, the Basilica of St Petronius is Bologna’s largest house of worship and dominates Piazza Maggiore with its imposing pockmarked façade. Begun in 1392, the basilica was originally intended to be larger than St Peter’s in Rome. Plans came to a halt, however, when the pope refused permission for such a grandiose scheme. The unfinished façade stares across the Piazza like a jilted bride, her rosy complexion topped by a heavy frown of bare brick. Carvings in the central door, depicting scenes from the Old and New testaments, are by Sienese artist Jacopo della Quercia. Inside, a brass meridian in the floor of the north aisle forms an ingenious solar clock – a small hole in the roof allows the sun to shine on the correct spot. Tradition has it that when the sun’s rays fall in the shape of a heart, it is time to seek a husband. Models of the ‘finished’ church can be seen in the Basilica Museum, Wednesday-Monday 1030-1230 (admission is free).

Piazza Maggiore
Tel: (051) 225 442.
Transport: Bus 10, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 27, 29, 30, 37, 90 or 96.
Opening hours: Daily 0715-1330 and 1430-1830 (Apr-Sep); daily 0715-1300 and 1400-1800 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: Free.

Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune)
This fountain is the work of Flemish sculptor Jean Boulogne de Douai – known to posterity as Giambologna – and based on a design by Palermitan painter Tommaso Laureti. Lit up at night, the shadow of the mighty bronze Neptune looms across the Piazza, his trident clasped firmly in his left hand and a fish squirming beneath his foot. At his heel, four angels representing the four winds playfully blow water through their pipes. Below, the four voluptuous sirens symbolise the four continents (as speculated at the time). Visitors should look out for the spectacular audiovisual installation that was opened in summer 2002, just across from the fountain. British director Peter Greenaway was involved in the high-tech project, with various stages in the story of Bologna triggered off by passers-by, using a system of sensors.

Piazza Maggiore
Transport: Bus 10, 11, 13 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 27, 29, 30, 37, 90 or 96.

Basilica di Santo Stefano (Basilica of St Stephen)
Standing in the Piazza of the same name, the Basilica di St Stefano is a jumbled complex of interconnecting churches, cloisters, courtyards and crypts. The bulk of the building dates from the fifth century, including the city’s oldest church, San Vitale e Agricola. To the right is the Romanesque Chiesa di Crocifisso, which houses the bones of St Petronius, and the Chiesa del San Sepolcro, whose octagonal shape suggests it began life as a baptistry. The Chiesa della Santa Trinità leads into a colonnaded cloister, with a beautiful portico and loggia. The adjoining museum houses a small collection of painting and frescoes.

Via Santo Stefano 24
Tel/Fax: (051) 223 256.
Transport: Bus 11, 18, 25 or 27; a short walk from the Two Towers.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1200 and 1530-1800.
Admission: Free.

The Archiginnasio
Behind San Petronio, in Piazza Galvani, is the Archiginnasio, a gracious old building that was formerly the university and is now one of the largest municipal libraries in Europe. Its painted halls are stacked high with rare leather-bound volumes too delicate to touch and entry is strictly limited, to avoid overloading the sagging floors. Fans of Rossini should take a look at the Stabat Mater Room (open in the morning only), named in honour of the famous composition by Rossini that was performed here for the first time on 18 March 1842. The main reason to make the trip, however, is to see the wood-panelled medical faculty dissection theatre, the Teatro Anatomico, which originally dates from the 18th century. It was destroyed by wartime bombing and has been completely restored, using as much of the original wood as possible. Photos on display show the extent of the war damage. The town’s gentry used to have to pay to attend the world’s first public dissections but today entry is free of charge and, mercifully, gore.

Piazza Galvani
Tel: (051) 276 811. Fax: (051) 261 160.
E-mail: archiginnasio@comune.bologna.it
Website: www.comune.bologna.it/archiginnasio
Transport: Bus 11,13, 19x, 31, 90 or 96.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1830, Sat 0930-1300.
Admission: Free.

San Domenico
The 1251 church of San Domenico was built to house the relics of St Domenic, the founder of the Domenican Order. Nicolo Pisano was principally responsible for the 13th-century Arca di San Domenico, which houses the saint’s bones, although many Bolognese artists contributed to it. The reliefs illustrating the saint’s life are by Pisano and his pupils. Pisano also was responsible for the statues on top, Nicola dell’Arca (1469-73) for the canopy and a young Michaelangelo for the angel on the right and the figures of Sts Proculus and Petronius.

Piazza San Domenico 13
Tel: (051) 640 0411.
Transport: Bus 30; a short walk east of Via Garibaldi.
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1300 and 1430-2000.
Admission: Free.

Museo Ebraico (Jewish Museum)
The new Jewish Museum was opened in time for Bologna’s year as a European City of Culture in 2000 and represents an important element in the system of Jewish Museums in Emilia Romagna. Although Bologna was the second city of the Papal States to force Jewish people to live in a particular part of the city (the ghetto), their historical and cultural contributions to the region were extensive. The state-of-the-art museum presents an awareness of both the greater Jewish identity and that within Emilia Romagna.

Via Valdonica 1/5
Tel: (051) 291 1280. Fax: (051) 235 430.
E-mail: info@museoebraicobo.it
Website: www.museoebraicobo.it
Transport: Off Via dell’ Inferno, north of Due Torri; bus 10, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 27, 29, 30, 37, 90 or 96; Via Zamboni, bus 32, 36 or 37.
Opening hours: Sun-Tues and Thurs-Fri 1000-1800, Wed 1000-1400.
Admission: 4 euros, concessions available.

Further Distractions

Santa Maria della Vita
Tucked away down Via Clavature is the church of Santa Maria della Vita, which shelters one of Bologna’s most dramatic works of art. When one steps into the gloomy interior of the church, the bustle of the lively street is immediately muted. Nicolo dell’Arca’s Pieta, known historically as the Mourning Marys around the Dead Christ, stands inside the church – a silent ‘scream in stone’, as it was once memorably described by the Italian poet, Gabriele D’Annunzio.

Via Clavature 10
Tel: (051) 236 245 or 224 002.
Transport: Bus 10, 11, 13 or 14; a short walk from Piazza Maggiore.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1230 and 1430-1830, Sun 1630-1800 (Apr-Sep); Daily 0730-1800 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: Free.

Santuario di San Luca (Sanctuary of San Luca)
The 18th-century sanctuary in the hills three and a half kilometres (two miles) from the city centre, is only of moderate interest in itself but the 666 arches alternating with 15 chapels of the portico leading to it are impressive. The icon of the Virgin Mary is attributed to St Luke and every year, in May, it is brought down to the city for a week. The view from the sanctuary a dramatic one and the hills are cool and calm compared to the city centre. For those looking to work off some of the worst effects of ‘Bologna, La Grassa’, walking at least one way is good exercise and opens up a cross-section of the city.

Via di San Luca, Colle della Guardia
Tel: (051) 614 2339.
Transport: Bus 20 from Via Indipendenza stops at the start of the portico by Porta Saragozza, southwest of the city centre.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0700-1230 and 1430-1700, Sun 1230-1430 (Nov-Feb); Mon-Sat 0700-1230 and 1430-1800, Sun 1230-1430 (Mar and Oct); Mon-Sat 0700-1230 and 1430-1900, Sun 1230-1430 (Apr-Sep).
Admission: Free.

Museo Civico Archeologico (Archaeological Museum)
This superb museum – greatly improved in honour of Bologna’s being one of the European Cities of Culture for 2000 – is located in the 15th-century Ospedale della Morte, the old mortuary. The new Egyptian rooms in the basement are well presented and feature paintings from the tomb of Horemhed. The Roman section is also first rate. Nevertheless, this museum has always been best known for having one of the finest Etruscan sections outside Lazio, featuring finds from the city of Felsing (from the ninth century BC to the Gallic invasion in the mid-fourth century BC). Besides important works, such as the Askos Benacci sculpture of a man on a horse that is in turn riding upon another llama-like animal, the collections are strong on aspects of daily life. There is also an excellent Numismatic section with Greek, Roman, Renaissance and Papal coins and medals.

Via dell’Archiginnasio 2.
Tel: (051) 233 849.
E-mail: mca@comune.bologna.it
Website: www.comune.bologna.it/musei/archeologico/index.html
Transport: All buses to Piazza Maggiore go past the museum.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1830, Sun and holidays 1000-1830.
Admission: ¬4.

Sala Borsa (Stock Exchange)
It is tribute to both the strength of Bologna’s cultural life and the forward thinking of the local authorities that the Sala Borsa has turned its back on the world of high finance to serve as a meeting point and source of reference for the citizens of the city. This grand old building now forms Italy’s largest multimedia library, with over 180,000 volumes, 5000 DVDs, 10,000 CDs, 130 multimedia terminals and free Internet access. The borsa reopened after its big makeover in 2001 and has already proved popular with Bologna’s large student community, although tourists will be as impressed by the grand interior and the Roman remains below floor level as they will by the amenities.

Piazza del Nettuno
Tel: (051) 204 400. Fax: (051) 204 420.
E-mail: salaborsa@commune.bologna.it
Website: www.bibliorecasalaborsa.it
Transport: Bus 10, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 27, 29, 30, 37, 90 or 96.
Opening hours: Mon 1430-2130, Tues-Fri 0900-2130, Sat 0900-1900.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Walking tours of Bologna depart from the Informazioni e Assistenza Turistica (tel: (051) 246 541) tourist office on Piazza Maggiore, every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 1030. Another tour leaves Neptune’s Fountain on Sunday and Monday at 1100 and at 1500 on Tuesday and Thursday. These tours take roughly two hours and include Piazza Maggiore, the Archiginnasio, the Basilica di Santo Stefano and the Due Torri. Each tour costs ¬13 and no prior booking is necessary. Alternatively, private guides can be booked from the Associazione Guida d’Arte (tel: (051) 421 0809; fax (051) 421 4653), at a cost of ¬65 for three hours.

Bus Tours
The two-hour minibus tour of the city, offered by Cosepuri (tel: (051) 517 070; fax (051) 633 1054) were suspended in October 2002, although there are unconfirmed plans to restart the city tours in time for summer 2003. When in operation, the tours visit the major sites and monuments within the centre, starting from Via Indipendenza, in front of the ‘scalinata Pincio’ or Pincio stairs, on Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 1000 and 1500. As a result of the suspension, prices have not been decided upon yet.

Bicycle Tours
Two-hour cycling tours of Bologna, the Bike in Bo (tel: (051) 649 5043) tours, depart from the Informazioni e Assistenza Turistica tourist office on Piazza Maggiore, on Friday at 1800 and Saturday at 1600. There are two routes on offer – one focuses on the town and another takes visitors further afield. Each tour costs ¬20 and includes bicycle hire and insurance. It is possible for visitors to arrange tours at times other than the standard Friday and Saturday slots.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Parma: Standing on Via Emilia, about 90km (56 miles) northwest of Bologna, Parma became an important trading colony during Roman times. Today, it is the second most populous city in Emilia-Romagna, after Bologna. Although justifiably famous for its tangy cheese and sweet cured ham, Parma is much more than Italy’s glorified larder. Home of Verdi and resting place of the renowned violinist, Nicolo Paganini, Parma boasts a fine musical tradition and is home to one of Italy’s most important opera venues, the Regio Theatre (tel: (0521) 218 685).

The city enjoyed an intense period of artistic and architectural development during the long reign of the Farnese dynasty (1545-1731). Aside from the magnificent Romanesque Cathedral and Baptistry, there are some exceptional frescoes by Correggio and Parmigianino in the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista. Meanwhile paintings by Fra Angelico, Leonardo da Vinci and El Greco are found in the National Gallery (tel: (0521) 233 309; fax: (0521) 206 336), located inside the Palazzo della Pilotta, which also contains the magnificent Farnese Theatre.

Trains depart for Parma from Bologna’s central station every hour (journey time – approximately 45 minutes). The Ufficio Informazioni ed Accoglienza Turistica tourist office is located at Via Melloni 1/b (tel: (0521) 218 889; fax: (0521) 234 735; e-mail: turismo@comune.parma.it; website: http://turismo.comune.parma.it) and is open Monday to Saturday 0900-1900, Sunday and holidays 0900-1300.

For a Whole Day

Florence: The artistic orgy of Florence (Firenze) is one of the key reasons why Bologna has so often been overlooked by visitors to Italy. Tourists flock to Florence in droves. Located approximately 80km (50 miles) south of Bolgona, just one hour by train, the city lies at the heart of the Renaissance and is home to some of the world’s greatest works of art, including Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Michelangelo’s David and Masaccio’s Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise. Architecturally, the gravity-defying dome of Brunelleschi’s Cathedral and Giotto’s elegant Campanile dominate the skyline but every nook and cranny of Florence holds a surprise. From the Ponte Vecchio to Santa Croce, the city dazzles with genius. Florence is easy on the eye but often hard on the feet. Any visit should include a cappuccino in one of the famous piazzas or a picnic in the Boboli Gardens, surrounded by gargoyles and the local cats.

The Ufficio Turismo, Borgo Santa Croce 29 (tel: (055) 234 0444; fax: (055) 226 4524; e-mail: infotur.scroce@comune.fi.it; website: www.comune.fi.it), is open Monday to Friday 0900-1400 and provides further information.

Sport

Throughout Italy, the national passion (before food, religion or politics) is football (il calcio). The Bologna Football Club 1909 (tel: (051) 611 111; website: www.bolognafc.it) may not be one of the best-known teams outside Italy but as a Serie A (premier league) team, it still excites a good deal of noisy discussion, even though they have not won Serie A since 1964. Their home ground is the Stadio R. Dall’Ara, Via A Costa 174, to the northwest of the city. The ticket office sells seats starting from ¬15.50 and rising to ¬125. Carisbo (tel: (051) 421 1342), the Bolognese bank and team sponsor, also sells tickets.

Basketball (il basket) is the only other sport that maintains any sustained level of interest among the Bolognese. Kinder Virtus (website: www.virtus.it), the local team, is among the best in Europe and won the Euroleague in 1998. Their home court is at PalaMalaguti, Via Cervia 1, in Casalecchio di Reno (tel: (051) 758 758). Tickets cost between £15 and £85 are available for purchase at the stadium, two hours prior to a match or from EBC, Burgnoli 7 (tel: (051) 555 504) and cost between ¬35 and ¬85.

Fitness centres: These can be found at almost all the four- and five-star hotels in the city. The Gym, Via della Grada 13 (tel: (051) 551 539), affiliated with the Centro Studio Danza, Via Azzo Gardino 50 (tel: (051) 649 0476), is an excellent option. Other good centres are The Atles Club, Via Vezza 22 (tel: (051) 251 122), and Body Planet, Via delle Armi 12 (tel: (051) 494 155).

Golf: The best greens within easy reach of the city are Golf Club Bologna, Via Sabattini 69, Monte San Pietro (tel: (051) 969 100; website: www.golfclub.bo.it), or the nine-hole Golf Club Molino del Pero, Via Molino del Pero 323, in Monzuno (tel: (051) 677 0506). Both are closed on Monday and visitors should expect to pay ¬30-45 for a round of golf. Membership is not required.

Swimming: All Bolognese public swimming pools are provided by Sogese (tel: (051) 519 109; fax: (051) 514 054; website: www.sogese.com). Pools are normally open from about 1000-1500, usually with a late night opening on Wednesday. Entrance is in the region of ¬5-6. Pools near the city centre include Piscina Comunale Vandelli, Via Corticella 180/4 (tel: (051) 375 130), Piscina Comunale Cavina, Via Biancolelli 36 (tel: (051) 404 312), Centro Sportiva Record, Via Pilastro 8 (tel: (051) 503 311), Piscina Comunale Stadio, Via dello Sport (tel: (051) 615 2520), and Piscina Sterlino, Via Murri 113 (tel: (051) 623 7034).

Tennis: Public tennis courts, both indoor and outdoor, are located at the Centro Sportivo ‘Record’, Via Pilastro 8 (tel: (051) 503 311). Courts cost ¬5.50-14 per hour, depending on the time of day.

Shopping

The four main shopping streets – Via dell’Indipendenza, Via Ugo Bassi, Via Rizzoli and Via D’Azeglio – lead off Piazza Maggiore in crossroad formation. All the big-name Italian designers are found here, as well as a proliferation of antiques and books. The trend in Bologna fashion, led by the student population, is ‘utility chic’, with grungy clothes and military-style gear currently en vogue. Italy is renowned for its high quality clothing but shops are expensive. Italian sales (July/August and December/January) can throw up some great bargains, when prices are often slashed by up to 70%. Otherwise, leather goods – including jackets, wallets and belts – are a safe bet. A high class souvenir are the quality handmade leather shoes offered by the legendary Branchini Calzoleria, Corte Isloani, which take up to 40 days to craft and can be shipped worldwide.

There is a daily book market in Piazza Maggiore, open in the mornings during the winter months. An antiques market in Piazza Santo Stefano is open during normal shopping hours, every second weekend of the month (excluding January, July and August) and a flea market sets up shop from dawn to dusk, every Friday and Saturday, at the Parco della Montagnola. A collector's market, Celo’ Celo’ Mamanca, in the former Jewish ghetto, Via Valdonica and Piazza San Martino, is open every Thursday 0900-1900 (excluding July and August).

For a taste of Bologna, the Mercato delle Erbe, on Via Ugo Bassi, sells fresh fruit and vegetables every morning 0715-1300 and evening 1700-1900, except Sunday. Tamburini, Via Caprarie 1, is the place to buy homemade pasta, local hams and cheeses.

As a rule, shops open 0930-1300 and 1530-2000, although larger department stores and supermarkets may stay open throughout the day. Nearly everything is shut during August, on Thursday afternoon and on Sunday. Sales tax varies between 12-14%, depending on the value of the goods purchased. Travellers from outside the EU can claim back sales tax on purchases over ¬155. On leaving the country, customs officials will stamp the official receipt, which should then be presented at the Tax Free Desk at the airport. Global Refund Italia (tel: (0331) 283 555; fax: (0331) 283 698/9; e-mail: taxfree@it.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com) provides further information.

Culture

When Bologna was named a European City of Culture in 2000, it brought much attention from those who previously had known little about the city, although Bologna’s cultural life has been thriving for centuries. Bologna has strong musical links, earning the epithet ‘Italians, salute! Musical Bologna is passing!’ Mozart and Rossini both studied in the city and the former was just 14 when he became a member of the city’s Accademia Filarmonica, one of Europe’s leading musical academies, founded in 1666. Rossini, who hailed from nearby Pesaro, made his operatic debut here in 1814, with Tancredi and The Italian Girl in Algiers. Both works received a cool reception, in marked contrast to the Italian premiere of Wagner’s Lohengrin, which delighted the Bolognese audience and ran for a record 18 performances. The rapturous plaudits stunned even the egocentric Wagner, who declared such success was only possible in a city whose motto was Libertas (Freedom). Wagner was later made an honorary citizen of Bologna, adding further lustre to the city’s musical reputation.

Today, the musical tradition continues to flourish. Regular concert cycles are performed, ad hoc, in the Sale Mozart at the Accademia Filarmonica and in various churches around the city. Posters are pinned up outside the venue and tickets can be bought at the door. Bologna holds her own on the popular music front as well – national and international rock stars frequently perform in the football stadium outside the city. Tickets can be bought at record shops around the city.

Monthly cultural listings are available from Bologna Online (website: www.televisual.it/bolognaonline).

Music: The Teatro Comunale, Largo Respighi 1 (tel: (051) 529 999; website: www.comunalebologna.it), is the primary venue for opera and classical music in Bologna. Since 1763, the theatre has welcomed some of the world’s greatest composers, including Rossini, Verdi and Wagner. The opera season, reckoned to be second only to Milan’s La Scala, begins at the end of November and continues through to the end of June. Tickets start at ¬13 for a place in the gods but are often difficult to come by. The Teatro Comunale organises prestigious concerts, both in the theatre and in local churches from September to June. Music is also featured at the Accademia Filarmonia, Via Guerrazzi 13 (tel: (051) 222 997) and the Basilica di Santa Maria dei Servi, Via dei Borsaglieri 1 (tel: (051) 261 710).

Theatre: Bologna has 14 theatres in total, offering a wide selection of drama, from Shakespeare to experimental theatre. All performances are conducted in Italian and often include dialect, so a good understanding of the language or a selfless interpreter is vital. Tickets are available at the respective box offices. The Teatro Duse, Via Cartoleria 42 (tel: (051) 213 836; website: www.alinet.it/duse), is the most traditional of the playhouses and, from November to May, attracts Bologna’s middle class with its popular repertoire of classical drama. The recently renovated Arena del Sole, Via Indipendenza 44 (tel: (051) 291 0910; website: www.arenadelsole.it), offers a more diverse programme, ranging from the conservative to the avant-garde. Teatro Dehon, Via Libia 59 (tel: (051) 342 934 or 344 772; website: www.teatrodehon.it), is the top spot for comedy. The Teatro Testoni, Via Matteotti 16 (tel: (051) 377 968; website: www.testoniragazzi.it), specialises in shows for children every Saturday and Sunday afternoon.

Dance: The ballet season is organised by the Teatro Comunale, Largo Respighi 1 (tel: (051) 529 999; website: www.comunalebologna.it), while Teatri di Vita, Via di Pratello 90/92 (tel: (051) 523 113; website: www.teatridivita.it), holds performances of contemporary dance and often hosts visiting dance companies from overseas.

Film: Bologna is a city of students and, inevitably, cinema is the paramount art form. Films usually reach Italy before the UK, so visitors can enjoy a sneak preview of the latest Hollywood blockbuster or take in an arthouse picture in its original language. The Nosadella, Via Nosadella (tel: (051) 331 506; website: www.nosadella.it), shows films in their original language and the Adriano, Via San Felice 52 (tel: (051) 555 127), shows films in English on Mondays, while Tiffany, Piazza Porta Saragozza 5 (tel: (051) 585 253), has a Wednesday showing. Films are shown outdoors at the Arena Puccini, Via Serlio 25, in summer.

Cultural events: Bologna hosts many international festivals and concerts. Among them are I Grandi Interpreti, a cycle of concerts from April to June, featuring the best soloists, orchestras and musical groups in the world, as well as Suoni dal Mundo, a series of concerts taking place in November and December, dedicated to world music, and Sintonia d’Assoli, a festival of jazz and contemporary music, during the summer months. The Cineteca Comunale, Bologna’s Municipal Cinema Library (website: www.conetecadibologna.it), organises two international exhibitions dedicated to the visual arts. The first is Cinema Ritrovato, at the end of April, which looks back at the history of cinema with a series of screenings and lectures. The second is the biannual Cinema dei Paesi Arabi, celebrating Arabic film making, with the next event in January 2004. Bologna Sogna is a summer-long festival comprising art exhibitions, experimental theatre, cabaret, rock, poetry and puppets, often performed outdoors.

Literary Notes
‘I know of no other city with such a distinctive character,’ said the German writer, Herman Hesse, on his visit to Bologna in 1901. Many writers passed through Bologna on their Grand Tour of Italy in the 18th century. Goethe was enchanted by ‘the wide porticoes that meander through most of the town, providing shelter from the sun and rain,’ although he wrote that ‘the leaning tower is a disgusting sight.’ Stendhal meanwhile eulogised Bologna as ‘a city of spirit.’ Today, the city is home to the postmodern and visionary author, Umberto Eco, most famous for Il Nome Della Rosa or The Name of the Rose (1980), which was turned into a Hollywood movie starring Sean Connery and Christian Slater, and Pendolo di Foucault or Foucault’s Pendulum (1988). Victor Crowther’s The Oratorio in Bologna 1650-1730 (1999) is a thorough and colourful investigation of this 17th- and 18th-century musical phenomenon in Bologna.

Nightlife

The vibrant student community of Bologna fuels a lively nightlife scene that can be every bit as radical as the city’s politics. There are a profusion of nightclubs, discos and live music venues, with a smattering that remain open until about 0400. Irish pubs are among the most popular watering holes in Bologna, serving everything from the ubiquitous Guinness to camomile tea. Good areas for nightlife are the student quarter, Old Town and the streets around the main square.

The Bolognese are often considered natty dressers but there is no pressure to get glammed up, seeing as many of the younger residents are lovers of ‘grunge’ fashion. Nevertheless, some nightclubs will refuse entry to people wearing jeans. Most late-night venues charge an entrance fee that usually includes one drink and females are often let in for free, while male companions must pay. Look out for promotional evenings advertised around the university area. The minimum drinking age is 18 years and the average price of a beer is ¬3-5.

Talkabout (website: www.talkabout.it) offers English listings of nightlife, sports and other events. For the latest information on what’s on, clubbers should pick up a copy of the free magazine, 051, available in most bars, hotels and from the tourist office.

Bars: Osterias are pub-like venues that have been the mainstay of Bolognese drinking for centuries. For an authentic glimpse of an ancient Italian watering hole, in existence since the 15th century, plunge into the Osteria del Sole, Vicolo Ranocchi 1d. It is open 0800-1400 and again in the evening 1900-2000 – just long enough for the old men of Bologna to have a quick row about politics. Buy a picnic lunch from the nearby market and eat it here, providing this is accompanied by a glass of wine purchased on the premises. The Olindo Faccioli, Via Altabella 15b, founded in 1924, serves over 400 wines and is a great place to relax over delicious antipasti. Of the many pubs, Birreria Il Druido, Via Mascarella 26b, is one of the most likeable. Run by a veritable Italian druid with a passion for beer, it has a cavernous interior with long wooden tables and benches. The Irish pub, Celtic Druid, Via Caduti di Cefalonia 5c, is owned by the same team and serves excellent Irish brew while refraining from the kitsch shamrock excesses so common to theme pubs. Another Irish-style bar, Cluricaune Irish Bar, Via Zamboni, is located at the heart of the university district and buzzes with drunken action all week long. For a break from beer and wine, join the Latino trail and grab a margarita at Piedra del Sol, Via Goito 20, where the fajitas are as good as the queue suggests (closed Tuesday).

Casinos: There are no casinos in Bologna.

Clubs: Soda Pops, Via San Vitale, is a designer dance bar that is popular with the hip young crowd. In the winter months, students flock to Matis, Via Rotta 10, Casteldobole, for techno, hip hop and the very latest music trends. Kinki, Via Zamboni 1, is a long-time favourite, founded in the 1950s. The club has re-emerged from being an exclusively gay club back into the mainstream, with regular big domestic and international guest DJs. The JAM Club, Via Mascarella 2a, is where everybody with nowhere else to go ends up at midnight – a standard Italian discotheque with plenty of mirrors for posing. All three have a cover charge ranging from ¬10 to ¬20, which usually includes entrance and one drink. In the summer, the action moves outdoors. The City Council encourages open-air raves and subsidises Made in Bo, Parco Nord, Via Stalingrado, a massive and free outdoor disco, which takes place under the starry sky in July and August (closed Monday). Link, Centro Sociale, Via Fioravanti 14, is open daily 2200-0500, featuring avant-garde art and live bands early on, then ambient or techno music late into the night.

Comedy: The Ruvido Club, Via del Roncrio 10, hosts some of the best-known names among Italian comedians. If you want to discover Italian stand-up, this is a good place to start.

Live music: Cantina Bentivoglio, Via Mascarella 4b, is something of a Bolognese institution. A cross between a wine bar and a restaurant, it hosts live jazz from September to June (website: www.bentivoglio.it). There is no cover charge and it is nearly always packed, so it is advisable to book (closed Monday). The Chet Baker Jazz Club, Via Polese 7a, is another popular Bolognese venue for quality live jazz (website: www.chetbaker.com). The atmosphere is reminiscent of the smoke-filled clubs of New York and indeed the club can boast performances by top-level jazz musicians, such as Tommy Flanagan and James Moody. Those looking for a more local flavour may prefer the Osteria de’Poeti, Via dei Poeti 1b. The restaurant, established in the 1400s and retaining many original features, serves traditional Bolognese food to the strains of local folk music (closed Monday and 15 July to 25 August). Expect to pay at least ¬30 per person for a meal. Jazz is featured twice a week at the Osteria dell’Orsa, Via Mentana 1, and reggae, ska and hip hop is featured at the Officina Estragon, Via Calzoni 6 (website: www.estragon.it). Bar Wolf, Via Massarenti 118, is a hotbed of experimental and eclectic live music, with everything from classical quartets and jazz, through to rock and trip hop.

City Statistics

Location: Emilia-Romagna, northeast Italy.
Country dialling code: 39.
Population: 381,161 (city); 917,110 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 96.3% Italian, 3.7% other. Of the 14,439 foreigners in the city, 40.3% are African, 28.1% from European, 25.4% Asian and 5.9% American.
Religion: 98% Catholic, 2% other.
Time zone: GMT +1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 7°C (44.5°F).
Average July temp: 27°C (80.5°F).
Annual rainfall: 552mm (22 inches).

Special Events

Special Events
Cinema dei Paesi Arabi, bi-annual film festival, Jan (next one 2004), Cineteca Comunale
Carneval, a celebration of excess before the fasting of Lent, with parades, balls and costumes and particularly the huge feasts, Feb-Mar, throughout the city
Children’s Book Fair, Mar, Bologna Fiere
Cinema Ritrovato, retrospective film festival, Apr, Cineteca Comunale
I Grandi Interpreti, a cycle of concerts, Apr-Jun, various venues
Bologna Festival, classical music festival, May-Jun, various venues
Sintonia d’Assoli, a festival of jazz and contemporary music, May-Jul, throughout the city
Bologna Sogna Open Festival, music, theatre, film, Jun-Aug, throughout the city
Made in Bo, outdoor pop festival, Jul-Aug, Parco Nord, Via Stalingrado
Suoni dal Mondo, ethnic music festival, Saturdays, Nov-Dec, Arena del Sole
Motor Show, Dec, Bologna Fiere
New Year’s Eve, 31 Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬1
33cl bottle of beer: ¬1
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.50
36-exposure colour film: ¬3
City-centre bus ticket: ¬0.90
Adult football ticket: ¬15.50
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬20

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005