World City Guide

Mini Guide of Buenos Aires

City Overview

Buenos Aires is the most European of all Latin American cities. With its wide boulevards, leafy parks, grand buildings and varied culture and nightlife, the city is reminiscent of Paris or Barcelona. The Porteños (‘people of the port’), as the residents of Buenos Aires are called, seem more European too – but this is hardly surprising considering that most are descended from European, predominately Italian, immigrants who settled here in the 19th century. With them came a culture and a cuisine that still flavours the city and can be enjoyed in countless art galleries, theatres and museums, as well as fine restaurants. But the city has also spawned its own art forms, notably the tango, for which Buenos Aires is famous.

Buenos Aires is the third largest city in South America and comprises 47 barrios (neighbourhoods) in which nearly three million people live. Situated in the east of Argentina beside the Rio de la Plata and surrounded by seemingly never ending flat land known as the Pampas, the vast sprawling conurbation is a true 24-hour city – there is always something going on to occupy the senses. The downtown area is as noisy and congested as any other major urban centre, but the city is really a pleasant place to walk around.

Nuestra Señora de Santa Maria del Buen Aire was founded by the Spaniard Pedro de Mendoza in 1536. It was named after the patron saint of sailors, who is said to be responsible for the good wind or buen aire. Provisions ran low and five years later settlement attempts were abandoned until Juan de Garay refounded the city in 1580. In 1776, Buenos Aires was pronounced the Capital of the Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata (River Plate region – a huge region that included what is now Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Bolivia and parts of Chile and Brazil). The Criollos (Argentines of Spanish descent) merchants, having successfully expelled British invaders in 1806 and 1807, began to rebel against Spain in 1810. It was only after the Declaration of Independence in 1816 that the city became free of colonial hindrance.

Following the city’s federalisation in 1880, mass European immigration occurred as workers were brought in to service agriculture and the railways. Development ceased in the mid-20th century as the country’s economy declined – mostly as the result of lack of investment from war-torn Europe. Immigrants arrived from other parts of Argentina and were forced to reside in shanty towns (villas de emergencia) or villas miseria, as they were aptly described. Buenos Aires only re-emerged from its economic woes in the 1990s when the currency was stabilised. Those with money spent it and new buildings, shopping malls and entertainment centres emerged, creating a new way of life for the inhabitants.

However, the future is again uncertain, following the economic crisis that has plagued the country since December 2001. Devaluation made life expensive for the Porteños and job losses plunged many into poverty, evidenced by the families of cartoneros (cart people) who take to the city streets each evening to rummage through bins for materials to sell for recycling. Buenos Aires has bounced back, however, and there are signs that the Argentine economy is on the mend. But despite any lingering financial worries, the Porteños continue to get on with life as best they can. There are still a great number of people who can afford life’s luxuries, but many diners still patronise classy restaurants, the bars and cafés bustle with people and the city’s elite dance the night away in South America’s best clubs.

For the visitor from abroad, there has never been a better time to visit Buenos Aires. Devaluation has made it a cheap city to explore and enjoy and the division of wealth remains largely invisible to the tourists sightseeing and shopping by day and dancing and enjoying gastronomic delights at night. With several new museums and a continuous agenda of cultural attractions and events, there is much to see and do. Buenos Aires has a mild climate and is a year-round destination, although the city can get very hot and humid during the summer months (Dec-Feb). The city can also be quiet during summer as many Porteños take their holidays at this time.

Getting There By Air

Ministro Pistarini Airport/Ezeiza (BUE)
Tel: (011) 5480 6111.
Website: www.aa2000.com.ar

Buenos Aires’s airport, commonly referred to as Ezeiza after the neighbourhood in which it is located, is the international gateway to Argentina. Situated 35km (22 miles) west of Buenos Aires, it is one of Argentina’s busiest airports and acts as a hub for flights to other South American cities, such as Santiago de Chile and Rio de Janeiro.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a bank and exchange facilities, ATMs (cajeros automaticos), duty-free and general shops, left-luggage, a tourist information desk, a post office and car hire operators. There is also a shuttle bus connection to Jorge Newbery Airport for domestic flights.

Transport to the city: The least stressful way to travel from the airport to Buenos Aires is by bus or taxi. Manuel Tienda Léon (tel: (011) 5480 0374) and Transfer Express (tel: (011) 4852 6776) operate shuttle bus services to the city centre, which take around 40 minutes. The local bus no. 86 to the city centre is much cheaper but takes up to two hours. Municipal taxis are readily available and private car transfers are provided by Manuel Tienda Léon (tel: (011) 5480 0374), Transfer Express (tel: (011) 4852 6776) and Vip Cars (tel: (011) 5480 4590 or 4594).

Aeroparque Metropolitano Jorge Newbery (AEP)
Tel: (011) 5480 6111.
Website: www.aa2000.com.ar

Situated just 4km (2.5 miles) from Buenos Aires city centre, on the Costanera Norte beside the Rio de la Plata, this airport is the pivotal point of the country’s domestic flight system.

Airport facilities: Tourist information, banking and bureau de change, left-luggage and car hire facilities are all available. There are also frequent connections to the International Airport.

Transport to the city: Public urban transport buses nos. 33, 37 and 45 pick up along the Constanera (coast road) at the front of the airport and make various stops as they travel downtown. Manuel Tienda Léon (tel: (011) 5480 0374) and Transfer Express (tel: (011) 4852 6776) operate shuttle bus services to the city centre and the International Airport. Municipal taxis are readily available and private car transfers are provided by Manuel Tienda Léon (tel: (011) 5480 0374), Transfer Express (tel: (011) 4852 6776) and Remises Universal (tel: (011) 4776 1117 or 2229).

Approximate flight times to Buenos Aires: From London is 13 hours; from New York is 11 hours; from Los Angeles is 16 hours; from Toronto is 13 hours and from Sydney is 16 hours. From Bariloche is 2 hours 20 minutes; from Córdoba is 1 hour 15 minutes; from Puerto Iguazú is 1 hour 45 minutes; from Salta is 2 hours and from Ushuaia is 3 hours 20 minutes.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Driving in Argentina usually involves long distances and, apart from the main highways, roads are generally in poor condition. Checkpoints exist to prevent meat, vegetables and other food products entering into Mendoza, San Juan, Patagonia, Catamarca, Jujuy, Salta and Tucumán. The ‘A’ roads are the autopistas (motorways) and those labelled ‘R’ are rutas (roads) – tolls exist on all main roads. The maximum speed limit on motorways is 130kph (80mph), on one-lane roads is 80kph (50mph), while the speed limit in built-up areas varies (40-60kph/25-37mph). Traffic drives on the right and regulations, signs and conduct are similar to those in the USA or Europe. Drivers can be impatient and have little regard for lanes or the wearing of seatbelts. The use of seatbelts is, however, compulsory and fines are implemented for failure to comply with the law. The minimum driving age is 18 years, while the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

Insurance that covers third-party liability is required by law and foreigners require an International Driving Permit, which must be stamped at an office of the Automóvil Club Argentino – ACA (tel: (011) 4808 4610; website: www.aca.org.ar). ACA can also provide maps and information, and offers reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in some other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
ACA 0800 777 2894 (in Argentina only) or (011) 4803 3333

Routes to the city: From Buenos Aires, Route 3 goes southwest to Bahia Blanca and then along the east coast of Argentina all the way to Rio Gallegos and then to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, via Chile and a ferry ride across the Magellan Straits. Route 7 goes west to Mendoza and then on towards Santiago in Chile. Route 9 goes northwest to Rosario and Córdoba and connects with roads northwards to Salta or Puerto Iguazú. All roads coming into Buenos Aires connect with the A001 or Avenida General Paz, a semicircular autopista that acts as the city’s ring-road. Several main roads run all the way into the heart of the city, such as Autopistas Leopoldo Lugones and 25 Mayo, which both connect with Avenida 9 de Julio in the city centre.

Driving times to Buenos Aires: From Córdoba – 9 hours; Mendoza – 17 hours; Puerto Iguazú – 20 hours; Ushuaia – 30 hours.

Coach services: Hundreds of bus companies operate long-distance services from the city’s Retiro Terminal de Omnibus, Avenida Antártida Argentina (tel: (011) 4310 0700/07), which is located next to the Retiro train station. Facilities at the modern and well organised terminal include tourist information, a restaurant, cafés, left-luggage, ATM, shops, pharmacy and Internet facilities. Each bus company has its own desk, above which its destinations are listed. There are coach services to hundreds of national destinations, as well as international services between Buenos Aires and Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay.

Getting There By Rail

Rail: Trains are no longer a viable option for getting to or around Argentina, as most passenger rail services have ceased. However, there are a number of urban rail services within and around Buenos Aires. Out-of-town services run from three main stations listed below, by various companies including Trenes de Buenos Aires (tel: (011) 4317 4400; website: www.tbanet.com.ar), Metropolitano (tel: (011) 4018 0700/17; website: www.tms.com.ar) and Ferrovias (tel: (011) 4511 8833; website: www.ferrovias.com.ar).

Rail services: In the south of the city, Estación Constitucion, Calle General Hornos 11 (tel: (011) 4304 0028 or 0031), receives trains from Mar del Plata (journey time – 6 hours), Sierra de la Ventana (journey time – 9 hours 30 minutes) and Tandil (journey time – 7 hours 30 minutes). To the west of the city, Estación Once, next to Plaza Miserere on Avenida Pueyrredon and Calle Bartolomé Mitre (tel: (011) 4861 0043), receives trains from Lobos (journey time – 2 hours), Lujan (journey time – 1 hours 45 minutes) and Mercedes (journey time – 2 hours 10 minutes). Estación Retiro, Avenida Ramos Mejia (tel: (011) 4311 8704 or 8264), is where trains from north of the city arrive, including the suburbs of San Isidro (journey time – 22 minutes) and Tigre (journey time – 45 minutes). The twice weekly overnight service from Tucumán (journey time – 22 hours), via Rosario, also arrives at Retiro.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The best way to get around Buenos Aires is to take the bus or Subte (subway) to an area and then explore it on foot. The city’s transport service is extensive, inexpensive and efficient. It is worth investing in a good street and transportation map if planning to stay more than a few days.

The easiest way to negotiate the area and avoid the motorised madness is to take the Subte (subway). This underground train service is operated by Metrovias (tel: (011) 4959 6800; website: www.metrovias.com.ar) and comprises five lines (A to E) and a premetro system that links the end of Line E. Pre-paid Subtecards or passes can be purchased from the ticket booths (boleterias) at each station in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10 or 30 journeys.

Colectivos (local buses) are also useful for travelling within the city limits and many services operate 24 hours a day. No one company is responsible for the bus system in Buenos Aires but routes are detailed on the Los Colectivos website (www.loscolectivos.com.ar). Routes and numbers can be confusing, so it is best to consult a map and ask the advice of locals. Colectivos can be identified by the route number and main destination displayed above the windshield. Having boarded at the front, coins should be inserted in the automatic coin machine, which will print a ticket and give change. To exit, there is a buzzer by the back door, which should be pushed before the stop required. Visitors should watch their belongings in the crowds and be courteous to passengers looking more in need of a seat than themselves.

Urban train services are operated by Trenes de Buenos Aires – TBA (tel: (011) 4317 4400; website: www.tbanet.com.ar), Metropolitano (tel: (011) 4018 0700/17; website: www.tms.com.ar) and Ferrovias (tel: (011) 4511 8833; website: www.ferrovias.com.ar), and can be a useful way of getting to outlying residential districts. TBA runs the most comprehensive service with useful routes to Palermo, Belgrano, San Isidro and Tigre. Tickets are cheap and can be purchased at stations.

Combined public transport passes are not available.

Taxis
Yellow and black taxis are in plentiful supply and can easily be hailed on the streets. Generally, taxis are safe but there are some fake taxis in existence. If unlucky enough to hail one, visitors should not argue fares with the driver as he is likely to be armed. It is safer to telephone a radio taxi in advance. Reputable radio taxi companies include Premium (tel: (011) 5238 0000 or 4374 6666; website: www.taxipremium.com.ar) and Radio Taxi Pidalo (tel: (011) 4956 1200 or 4932 2222).

Remises are fixed-fare taxis or minicabs booked in advance. They can generally offer fixed rates that are cheaper than standard taxis, especially for airport runs. Recommended providers for remises include: ABC (tel: (011) 4315 6070), Remises Universal (011) 4315 6555 and Annie Millet Transfers (tel: (011) 6777 7777).

Driving in the City
There is little point in bringing a car to Buenos Aires. Traffic in the city centre (Centro) is hectic by city standards and the roads get heavily congested during the rush hour. The grid system is reasonably easy to master. Arrows indicate the directions on street signs. Drivers are generally determined and have a low tolerance level for hesitant or slow drivers. Accidents are common – one tip is to slow down and flash the vehicle lights when approaching cross intersections without traffic lights at night. The microcentro area (city centre) is off limits to traffic between 0700 to 2100.

Parquimetros (parking meters) control parking on streets in the macrocentro area (outer city zones) on weekdays 0700-2100. Tokens (fichas) for their use can be purchased from kiosks or coin machines. Another option is to use the numerous estacionamientos (car parks) or playas (parking bays), which are usually marked by flag-waving dummies. Hotel parking is sometimes available at the more expensive hotels.

Car Hire
Although driving in Buenos Aires is not really recommended, a car may be useful for excursions and there are plenty of car hire companies in the city. Avis (website: www.avis.com) has four offices in Buenos Aires, including downtown at Calle Cerrito 1527 (tel: (011) 4326 5542) and at Ezeiza International Airport (tel: (011) 4480 9387). Car hire is also available from Budget Rent a Car, Avenida Leandro N Alem 1110 (tel: (011) 5031 0199) and Dollar Rent a Car, MT de Alvear 449 (tel: (011) 4315 8800). Hertz (website: www.hertz.com) has a main office on Calle Paraguay 1138 (tel: (011) 4816 8001) and a desk at Ezeiza International Airport (tel: (011) 4480 0054). Localiza (website: www.localiza.com.ar) has eight offices in the Buenos Aires area, including Rivadavia 1126 (tel: (011) 4382 9267) in the Microcentro and Jorge Newbery domestic airport (tel: 0800 999 2999, within Argentina only).

Drivers must be a minimum of 21 years old but some companies state 25 years. A valid driving licence is acceptable but an International Driving Permit is recommended. Advance booking is recommended if planning to rent over the weekend or holidays.

Bicycle Hire
Cycling the city centre streets of Buenos Aires is generally not a good idea as the traffic is hectic and drivers have little regard for cyclists. Cycle lanes are rare but the number of designated routes is growing and there are some good cycle paths in the city’s parks and alongside some stretches of the river. Three-gear ‘Beach Cruiser’ road bikes can be hired from Bike Tours, 13th floor, Calle Florida 868 (tel: (011) 4311 5199; website: www.biketours.com.ar).

Business

Business Etiquette
Businesspeople in Buenos Aires are very conscious of status and expect to conduct any business dealings with people of an equal footing. Business cards are commonly exchanged by way of introduction and punctuality is important. In keeping with the general style of the city, smart dress is appropriate as is a high degree of respect. Whenever possible, business should be conducted in Spanish although many Argentinean businesspeople do speak English as a second language.

Further information can be obtained from the Cámara Argentina de Comercio (Chamber of Commerce) (tel: (011) 5300 9000; website: www.cac.com.ar).

Normal business hours are Monday-Friday 0900-1900 and a siesta doesn’t usually feature in Buenos Aires’s business community. In general, conduct is similar to any large European city, with business deals often conducted over lunch.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Sightseeing Overview Initially most visitors are steadfastly determined not to fall into the tourist trap in Buenos Aires and solemnly vow not to have anything to do with anything remotely connected to Eva Perón, tango or football. Very few succeed in their goal, for once in the city the visitor becomes engrossed in efforts to experience one, if not more, of the three elements that the capital is traditionally famed for. Nevertheless, Buenos Aires is littered with museums and magnificent mansions and buildings. After sightseeing and shopping, there are fantastic parks to relax in and bars and cafés for sampling the excellent local cuisine.

Although initially confusing, the city is based on a grid system and is soon easy to master. The main point of orientation is the Avenida 9 de Julio, the world’s widest avenue, running from Plaza Constitucion to Avenida de Libertador. Most places of interest are contained in the five main barrios (neighbourhoods) within the microcentro so the attractions are easily accessible by foot. The main square, Plaza de Mayo, is situated in the city’s southeastern section. Visitors will undoubtedly come here and to La Recoleta Cemetery, Evita’s final resting place. Also in the centre are La City, the financial district, and Calle Florida and Lavalle – the pedestrianised shopping areas. South of the central area are the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, San Telmo and La Boca, while to the north lie the wealthier barrios of Retiro, Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano.

The Obelisco never fails to catch the eye and this 67m (220ft) high monument, together with the multi-lane avenue, in the middle of which it is located, has become a symbol of the city.

Tourist Information
Centro de Información Turística (Tourist Information Centre)
Tel: (011) 4114 5794 (information line).
E-mail: turismo@buenosaires.gov.ar
Website: www.bue.gov.ar

Tourist information offices and booths are located at: Florida 100, Florida; Dock 4, Puerto Madero; Terminal De Ómnibus, Avenida Antártida Argentina, Retiro; Quintana 596, Recoleta; Defensa 1250, San Telmo; and Shopping Abasto, Avenida Corrientes 3200.

Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación (National Tourism Office)
Avenida Santa Fe 883
Tel: (011) 4312 5550 or 2232.
E-mail: info@turismo.gov.ar
Website: www.turismo.gov.ar

There are also National Tourism Information stands at the international and domestic airports.

Passes
There are no tourist passes available.

Key Attractions

Plaza de Mayo
If Buenos Aires has a centre, this is it. Located at the historic heart of the city, and bounded by the key commercial and shopping areas, the Plaza de Mayo is a large public square containing gardens, fountains and statues. At one side of the square is the only surviving Government building from colonial times – the Cabildo, which was constructed in 1748. In 1810, it was the focus for the May Revolution and the museum reflects the history of this period. At the opposite end of the square is the Casa Rosada – a shocking pink Presidential Palace with a world-famous balcony, where the likes of General Galtieri, Diego Maradona, Evita and Perón have addressed the crowds at various stages in Argentina’s history. Originally a fortress, the Casa Rosada was remodelled when Buenos Aires became the Capital of the Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata in 1776. It gained its bright pink colour during the presidency of Sarmiento when, in 1873, he chose the colour to represent a mix of the red and white of the two main political parties. The south side of the building houses the Museo de la Casa Rosada in its basement.

Cabildo
Calle Bolívar 65
Opening hours: Wed-Fri 1130-1800, Sat and Sun 1400-1800.
Admission charge.

Casa Rosada
Balcarce 50
Tel: (011) 4344 3600.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sun 1400-1800. Guided tours of the museum at 1100 and 1600 Mon-Fri, 1500 and 1630 Sun. Guided tours of the palace at 1700 Mon-Fri.
Free admission. Identity card or passport required.

La Boca
This barrio is best known for its football team, Boca Juniors, for whom the legendary Diego Maradona played, but also for its multi-coloured wooden and corrugated iron houses. The houses were built and painted by the resident dock-workers, of mainly Italian descent, who used leftover materials and paint from the ships. The most famous street, Calle Caminito, possesses the best of the painted houses and is where artists, street performers and tango dancers congregate daily. The colourful district heavily influenced Benito Quinquela Martín (one of Argentina’s most famous painters) whose work can be seen at the recently renovated Museo de Bellas Artes Quinquela Martín. It is also worth exploring the temporary exhibits of Argentine artists at the modern Fundación Proa museum. The working class area of La Boca is now a popular destination for artists and tourists, but visitors should avoid straying into the less touristy areas for fear of pickpockets and muggers.

Calle Museo Caminito
Outdoor exhibition on Calle Caminito
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Free admission.

Museo de Bellas Artes Quinquela Martín
Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1835
Tel: (011) 4301 1080.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission charge.

Fundación Proa
Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1929
Tel: (011) 4303 0909.
Website: www.proa.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1900.
Admission charge.

San Telmo
San Telmo is one of the city’s oldest districts, where narrow streets with crumbing buildings add to the cultural intensity of the area. The labyrinth of streets, containing cafés, book stores, antique shops and artist studios all lead to Plaza Dorrego, which becomes an outdoor antiques and bric-a-brac market on Sundays. Tango music and dance demonstrations can be enjoyed in this square or at one of the many venues, such as El Viejo Almacén, devoted to this melancholy art form. There have been some efforts to regenerate this historic district and the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires houses experimental artwork in an old tobacco warehouse.

Plaza Dorrego
Sunday markets from 1000-1700.
Free admission.

El Viejo Almacén
Balcarce and Avenida Independencia
Tel: (011) 4307 7388 or 6689.
Website: www.viejoalmacen.com
Opening hours: Daily dinner and show at 2000. Show only at 2200.
Admission charge (Book in advance).

Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires
San Juan 350
Tel: (011) 4361 1121.
Website: www.aamamba.org.ar
Opening hours: Tues-Fri from 1000-2000 and Sat, Sun and holidays from 1100-2000.
Admission charge. Free on Wed.

La Recoleta Cemetery
A cemetery may not be everyone’s idea of a tourist attraction, but La Recoleta, founded in 1822, is famous as the final resting place of Maria Eva Duarte Perón or Evita. The burial site can easily be located by following the guided tour groups or by seeking out the mass of bouquets. The populist sentiment of the inscription on Eva’s tomb, Volverá y seré millones (‘I will return and be millions’), did not enamour this woman to the descendants of the members of Porteño high society buried around her. The cemetery also contains the tombs of writers, scientists, national heroes and former presidents, exhibiting a variety of architectural styles.

Calle Junín 1760
Tel: (011) 4803 1594.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1745. Guided tours last Sun of month, Mar-Dec, at 1430.
Free admission.

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
This ultra-modern building was built to house the Costantini collection of Latin American art and is a welcome addition to the city’s cultural landscape. It is the mission of the museum, opened in 2001, to promote appreciation of Latin American art from the early 20th century to the present day. Many Argentine artists are represented, including Xul Solar, Benito Quinquela Martín and Antonio Berni. Many Brazilian and Uruguayan works are also shown, as is a famous self-portrait by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. This light, airy gallery also has spaces for temporary exhibits, an outdoor sculpture balcony, art book and gift shop, library and a smart café.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
Tel: (011) 4808 6500.
Website: www.malba.org.ar
Opening hours: Thurs-Mon, and holidays, 1200-2000; Closed Tues; Wed 1200-2100.
Admission charge. Free Wed.

Museo Evita
Inaugurated on 26 July 2002, on the 50th anniversary of Evita’s death, the Museo Evita tells the life story of Eva Perón using a mixture of personal artefacts, dresses, photographs and audiovisual displays. Already a famous radio and theatre actress in her own right, Eva Duarte became one of the most revered and reviled figures in Argentine history when she married Colonel Juan Domingo Perón who was elected President in 1946. Evita used her position to further the rights and conditions of the working class. Her life came to a tragic end when she died of cancer, aged 33, in 1952. Evita has become the subject of various books, films and a stage musical, and newsreel footage of the state funeral shows how popular she had become during her brief life.

Calle Lafinur 2988
Tel: (011) 4807 9433 or 4809 3168.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun, and holidays, 1400-1930. Guided tours at 1600, 1700 and 1800 Tues-Sun.
Admission charge.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Housed in a redbrick neo-classical building in the Recoleta district, the airy National Fine Arts Museum contains collections of European paintings and sculpture along with a complete collection of Argentine art. Downstairs, there are galleries devoted to Impressionists, such as Renoir, Monet, Degas, Pissarro and Sisley. Rubens, Rothko, Pollock and an assortment of other renowned artists also feature, along with internationally famous Argentine artist, Lucio Fontana. A new exhibit features the personal collection of filmmaker Maria Luisa Bemberg. Visitors can also see the works of other Argentine artists and temporary exhibits on loan from international museums.

Avenida del Libertador 1473
Tel: (011) 4803 0802 or 4803 8814.
Website: www.aamnba.com.ar
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1230-1930, Sat-Sun 0930-1930.
Free admission.

Teatro Colón
Located near Plaza Lavalle, the Teatro Colón is regarded as one of the greatest opera houses in the world and is an essential visit, even for those not usually interested in classical music. The Renaissance-style building, designed by Italian architect Francisco Tamburri, has seen the likes of dancers Vaslov Nijinsky and Anna Pavlova grace the stage. Bernstein, Strauss and Stravinsky have conducted here and Caruso, Melba, Callas, Pavarotti and Domingo have all sung in the 2,500-seater auditorium and tested the highly regarded acoustics. Visitors can take guided tours through the Central Hall, the ornately gilded and mirrored Salon Dorado and the auditorium, whose dome is decorated with frescoes by Raul Soldi.

Box office and theatre entrance:
Libertad 621
Guided tours entrance:
Pasaje Toscanini 1168 (on Viamonte 1100)

Tel: (011) 4378 7132/3.
Website: www.teatrocolon.org.ar
Opening hours: Guided tours in English or Spanish are available Mon-Fri hourly 1100-1600, Sat hourly 0900-1600, Sun hourly 1100-1500.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden)
The Jardín Japonés is one of the best open spaces for quiet contemplation away from the noise and pollution of the city centre. Created in 1967 as a gift from the Emperor of Japan, the garden is a tranquil park of Asiatic shrubs and trees beautifully landscaped around a small lake bubbling with huge carp fish.

Avenida Casares 2966, near Avenida Figueroa Alcorta
Tel: (011) 4804 4922.
Website: www.jardinjapones.com.ar

Puerto Madero
An ambitious regeneration project has turned this former working dock into a lively and popular area for a stroll, a drink or a bite to eat. The old redbrick warehouses now house galleries, bars and restaurants. Old docking cranes line either side of the dock, which is spanned by the Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Woman).

Docks 3 and 4, Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo

Reserva Ecológica (Ecological Reserve)
Built on land reclaimed from the River Plate, this 360-hectare open space has become a verdant nature reserve packed with plants and creatures typical of the region. Paths for walkers and cyclists crisscross the park and there are many viewing platforms.

Avenida Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1550
Tel: (011) 4315 1320.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The tourist office can supply a map detailing recommended routes around the city’s most appealing neighbourhoods. It also organises a programme of guided cultural walks in key areas of the city. Popular walking tours include those devoted to locations and attractions associated with Evita and Porteño writer Jorge Luis Borges. All of the walking tours are free; they have various different meeting points and lengths but may be cancelled due to bad weather. The bi-monthly schedule of tours is available directly from the tourist office and booths or through the city’s website (www.bue.gov.ar).

Bus Tours
Various companies offer bus tours of Buenos Aires, involving transport to key cultural areas and guided walks with English or Spanish commentary. Travel Line Argentina (tel: (011) 4393 9000; website: www.travelline.com.ar) offers both day and night tours of the city. Other companies, such as Buenos Aires Tur (tel: (011) 4371 2304 or 2390; website: www.buenosairestur.com) and Buenos Aires Vision (tel: (011) 4394 4682 or 4328 4517; website: www.buenosaires-vision.com.ar) offer similar tours at similar prices.

Bicycle Tours
Guided English or Spanish pedal tours of Buenos Aires are available from Bike Tours (tel: (011) 4311 5199; website: www.biketours.com.ar). The three-and-a-half to four-hour informative ride through key districts, including Puerto Madero, La Boca, San Telmo, and the Plaza de Mayo, includes the use of a three-gear ‘Beach Cruiser’ bike, a helmet, a bottle of water and rain gear if necessary.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Tigre: A pleasant day trip from Buenos Aires, Tigre is a pretty town on an island in the Paraná Delta, just 30km (19 miles) away. The focus of activity is at the River Terminal (the Estación Fluvial) from where visitors can take a boat trip on the waterways of the Paraná Delta and even stop off for a stroll along the leafy lanes on some of the islands. Those wanting an adrenaline rush will not be disappointed: one of Latin America’s largest amusement parks, Parque de la Costa, Vivanco 1509 (tel: (011) 4002 6000; website: www.parquedelacosta.com.ar), can be found here. Only a few blocks away from the station is the daily Puerto de Frutos (fruit market), which is now a market for local handicrafts. Trains leave from Buenos Aires’s Retiro Station (Linea Mitre) regularly and the journey takes 45 minutes. For more of a scenic ride change at Olivos and take the Tren de la Costa (tel: (011) 4002 6000; website: www.trendelacosta.com.ar). More information can be obtained from the Tigre Tourist Office, Calle Mitre 305 (tel: (011) 4512 4400; website: www.tigre.gov.ar). Alternatively, Travel Line Argentina and other tour companies offer full-day excursions to Tigre and the Paraná Delta (see Bus Tours in Tours of the City).

For a Whole Day

San Antonio de Areco: Just 100km (60 miles) from the city, San Antonio de Areco is a rustic town with leafy streets that trades on its gaucho heritage. Gauchos are, or were, the Argentine cowboys who work on the estancias (cattle ranches) of the Pampas. The gaucho traditions have almost entirely died out, except where maintained for the benefit of tourists. There are many souvenir shops in San Antonio de Areco, selling mainly gaucho handicrafts made from leather, silver and ceramics, and the town has preserved many of the stone paved streets, mansions and buildings from the 19th century. One of these buildings is now the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes, which recreates a traditional estancia, complete with gaucho artefacts. Better still is a visit to a real estancia and nearby La Cinacina, Bartolomé Mitre 9 (tel: (02326) 452045 or 452773; website: www.lacinacina.com.ar or www.arecoturismo.com.ar) provides a warm welcome to visitors on day trips. Entertainment includes gaucho rodeo, cattle herding and traditional songs and dances, an asado lunch cooked over an open fire and the opportunity to go horseriding or play country games.

Buses to San Antonio de Areco leave daily from Plaza Once and the Retiro bus terminal and the journey takes two hours. The Areco Tourist Office, Calle Arellano 115 (tel: (02325) 1565 8300; website: www.arecoturismo.com.ar), can provide more information. Several tour companies (see Bus Tours in Tours of the City) offer day trips to estancias close to Buenos Aires, as does the online company Estancias Travel (website: www.estanciastravel.com).

Sport

Shopping

Buenos Aires is a shopper’s paradise – quite simply the best shopping city in the whole of Latin America. The range and quality of goods are excellent – and are even better value for visitors since devaluation. Shopping malls have sprung up all over the city and are usually found in old buildings. They are exquisite, air-conditioned, pleasant places to walk around, even if you don’t usually enjoy shopping. Two of the most exclusive malls are Galerias Pacifico, Calle Florida and Calle Córdoba, and Patio Bullrich, Avenida del Libertador 750 and Posadas 1245, which are brimming with boutiques of Argentine fashions and international labels. One of the best shopping streets for high-street fashions and leather goods is Calle Florida, a pedestrianised thoroughfare in the city centre. Palermo Viejo has been likened to New York’s Soho and is crammed with boutiques selling trendy fashion.

Argentina is renowned for its leather products and the goods on sale in the capital are of a particularly high standard. Shoes are an almost essential purchase. Welcome, at Calle Marcelo T de Alvear 500 and San Martin, is one of the oldest and most traditional stores for leather. Dalla Fontana, Calle Reconquista 735, makes good quality made-to-measure leatherwear. Polo and horse-related items are much in demand, while native crafts and souvenirs are good buys. Mate, Argentina’s national drink, has a whole ritual surrounding its drinking, with a special vessel and straw. These make good presents, as does jewellery – especially silver. Tango CDs and records serve as a fitting reminder of a visit to Buenos Aires. Zival’s, Avenida Callao 395, offers a wide variety of CDs, books and videos. Other book and record stores are located around Avenida Corrientes. Wines are always a great buy, as is the odd tin of dulce de leche – a sweet sticky substance made by boiling sugar in vanilla-flavoured milk, available in supermarkets.

South American crafts and textiles can be found throughout the city and at Arte Etnico Argentino, El Salvador 4600, in Palermo Viejo. Artwork can be found throughout the city on sale in galleries, especially in Retiro and Recoleta, while paintings of La Boca are 10 a penny in that area. The best place to search for antiques and colonial paintings is at and around the Feria de San Pedro Telmo flea market at Plaza Dorrego, on Sundays. The Hippie Fair in front of the Centro Cultural Recoleta is a colourful place to browse for handicrafts, jewellery and artwork, all day Saturday and Sunday.

Shopping hours are Monday-Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday 0900-1300, although malls are generally open daily 1000-2200. Purchase tax or VAT, known as IVA (Impuesto de Valor Agregado), stands at 21% and is placed on everything with the exception of medicines and food. Tax-free shopping is available at many outlets in the city – visitors should look for the ‘Tax Free Shopping’ logo. On purchasing goods costing $70 or more, visitors can receive a Global Refund Cheque along with the invoice for the VAT refund. Before leaving Argentina, the cheques and the invoices should be presented at customs to get them validated by a customs stamp. The cheques can then be cashed at Global Cash Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) offices, located at the national and international airports and the Buquebus ferry terminal.

Culture

Porteños are very culture orientated and naturally the capital offers a wide range of options for the enthusiastic culture vulture. Buenos Aires is most famous for its tango but it also has good ballet, theatre, cinema, opera and classical music. There are many large cultural centres that offer a multitude of options, including free tango sessions, art exhibitions and concerts. A few good ones are: Centro Cultural Recoleta, Calle Junín 1930 (tel: (011) 4803 1040), Centro Cultural General San Martín, Sarmiento 1551 (tel: (011) 4374 1252) or Centro Cultural Borges, Viamonte and San Martin (tel: 9011) 5555 5359). Most concert halls and theatres are shut mid-December to end of February, when many Porteños take their holidays.

The entertainment sections of newspapers The Buenos Aires Herald (website: www.buenosairesherald.com), Clarín (website: www.clarin.com) and La Nacion (website: www.lanacion.com.ar/vialibre) list events, performances and screenings. The tourist office and kiosks can always supply the most up-to-date details about what’s on. The Agenda section of Buenos Aires Day & Night magazine, available at tourist offices and cultural centres, has extensive entertainment listings. Bars, bookshops and hotels are also good sources of information along with flyers and posters at the city’s cultural centres and museums. Tickets can be purchased at the individual venues but there are also centralised ticket agencies (carteleras) in the centre, where music, theatre and cinema tickets can be obtained at discounted prices, for example Cartelera, Lavelle 835 (tel: (011) 4322 9263). Advanced credit card bookings can be made by telephone on online with Ticketek (tel: (011) 5237 7200; website: www.ticketek.com.ar). Ticketek also has a ticket booth at Alto Palermo Shopping on Santa Fe.

Music: Classical music is not as widely on offer as live music in bars, despite Argentina having world-class performers, such as soprano Maria Cristina Kiehr and tenor José Cura. The Teatro Colón, Avenida Libertad 621 (tel: (011) 4378 7344; website: www.teatrocolon.org.ar), is where the Buenos Aires Philharmonic plays and there are usually free classical music recitals held in the Salon Dorado. Opera, also performed by the Philharmonic, is of a high standard.

Theatre: Theatre is exceedingly popular with a good mix of international and Argentine productions available to both locals and visitors. Argentine playwrights of merit include Roberto Arlt, Roberto Cosa and Griselda Gambaro. The season usually begins in March and local people are both enthusiastic and critical about the productions they attend. Complejo Teatral de Buenos Aires (tel: (0800 333 5254, information line, in Argentina only; website: www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar), is a complex of five theatres, scattered throughout the city centre, which stage a varied programme of Argentine and international plays, as well as children’s theatre. The Teatro del Pueblo, Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 943 (tel: (011) 4326 3606; website: www.teatrodelpueblo.org.ar), stages modern and independent Argentine productions.

Dance: Argentine Julio Bocca is famous in the world of ballet but the general standard in the city is not that high. Top venues include the Teatro Colón (see Music above) and Teatro Coliseo, Calle Marcelo T de Alvear 1155 (call Ticketek for bookings). Tango is by far the dominant dance form and tango shows can be viewed in countless bars, cultural centres and even in the city streets. Salsa is also popular.

Film: Porteños are avid cinema-goers and Argentina has a strong film industry. Famous Argentine directors include Maria Luisa Bemberg, Alejandro Agresti, Fernando Solanas and Eliseo Subiela. Hollywood films are screened, as are arthouse films, while free films are often shown at cultural centres and museums. Big-screen pictures are shown in the original language with Spanish subtitles. The mainstream cinemas tend to be centred around Lavalle but multiplexes have sprung up around the city. The Galerias Pacifico, Calle Florida 753 (tel: (011) 5555 5357; website: www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar) and Village Recoleta, Vincente López and Calle Junín (tel: (011) 4800 0000; website: www.villagecines.com) are multi-screen cinemas showing popular films, while Cosmos, Avenida Corrientes 2046 (tel: (011) 4953 5405), is a good place to view an arthouse selection. Cinema listings can be found on the Pantalla website (www.pantalla.com.ar/cine).

Buenos Aires has been the setting for a number of films, most notably Alan Parker’s Evita (1996), starring Madonna as Eva Perón. Also, the critically acclaimed and Oscar nominated Nueve Reinas (Nine Queens) (2000), directed by Fabián Belinsky, tells the story of a group of small-time swindlers in Buenos Aires. More recently, The Motorcycle Diaries (2004), directed by Walter Salles, tracks Che Guevara’s journey across South America starting in his home town of Buenos Aires.

Literary Notes: Buenos Aires has inspired many writers, playwrights and poets, none more so than Jorge Luis Borges, known throughout the world for his poetry and short stories. His first book, following his return from Europe, Fervor de Buenos Aires (1923), is a collection of poems about the city, with references to La Recoleta Cemetery. His most famous short story, ‘El Aleph’, was based in the Constitucion area.

Ernesto Sabato wrote about the city’s people and places in his psychological novel On Heroes and Tombs (1961). Buenos Aires resident, Julio Cortazar focused on Argentinean characters in novels such as 62 (1968) and Hopscotch (1963), while novels by Manuel Puig, Betrayed by Rita Hayworth (1968) and Kiss of the Spiderwoman (1976), centre on the role of popular culture in Argentina. Tomas Eloy Martinez, in his books The Perón Novel (1985) and Santa Evita (1995), mixes fact about the lives of the Peróns with fiction.

Nightlife

Buenos Aires’s nightlife is one of the most active in the world. Nightlife really is ‘night’-life with the young and wealthy Porteños, as they usually only embark on their evening’s entertainment at 2200 with a meal. After satisfying an appetite, they’ll wile away a few hours in a bar or confiteria and won’t even contemplate entering a club until gone 0200 when partying will just be warming up. Drunkenness among the locals is almost unheard of as the Porteños only consume moderate amounts of alcohol. Dress is smart, but the extent of the formality depends on the club and the area. The legal drinking age is 18 years.

Palermo continues to be popular with the fashionable crowd, especially the areas of Las Cañitas and Palermo Hollywood, which are packed with trendy bars, clubs and restaurants. The streets surrounding La Recoleta Cemetery are also popular, especially at the weekends when the pavement bars and cafés remain busy until the action moves to the nearby clubs. A number of drinking options, including English and Irish pubs, exist on and around Calle Reconquista and Avenida 25 de Mayo, while San Telmo is a focal point for Bohemian bars and tango shows. Puerto Madero has become increasingly popular for sunset drinks and dining.

Nightlife is at its peak Thursday to Saturday but there’s always something happening throughout the week. Bars and clubs offer a range of music and entertainment options to meet all tastes, from tango shows to techno nightclubs. Admission charges range from $10 to $45. Some clubs allow women free entry on certain nights or offer a ‘free’ drink as part of the admission charge.

Bars: Many bars offer food and live music so sometimes it is difficult to make a distinction between a place offering straightforward drinks and those pertaining to be restaurants or live music venues. La Cigale, Avenida 25 de Mayo 722, is a hip bar in the city centre attracting the young with its promise of live music and DJs. Also in the centre is Buenos Aires’ longest established wine bar Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161, which is a fashionable place to sip Argentine wines and cocktails. A European-style pub can be found in El Verde, Calle Reconquista 878, which offers a wide selection of beers, whiskeys and Spanish tapas. If you want to be seen at a place to be seen, head for the Voodoo Bar, Calle Baez 340, to dance or just relax in the armchairs. Another fashionable and stylish place is Unico, Calle Honduras 5604, in Palermo Hollywood.

Casinos: The Casino Buenos Aires, Darsena Sur, Puerto Madero, is located on a Mississippi style boat and offers black jack, roulette, poker and slot machines. The minimum age is 18 years and dress is smart-casual.

Clubs: Buenos Aires News, Paseo de la Infantana Isabel, and New York City, Calle Alvarez Thomas, both in Palermo, are just two of the established clubs where you can dance to mainstream dance music amid a smartly dressed, wealthy set. Kika, Honduras 5339, Palermo Hollywood (website: www.kikaclub.com.ar) is the latest hotspot in this nocturnal wonderland, while Tequila, Costanera Norte, is one of the most exclusive venues in the city. For the super-club experience and the very best in national and international dance music DJs, head to Pacha, Costanera Norte and La Pampa (website: www.pacha-ba.com).

Live Music: A great many of the city’s bars and clubs offer live music as part of their menu, but good options include the Café Tortoni, Avenida De Mayo 829 (website: www.cafetortoni.com.ar). The most famous café in the city, it offers live tango and jazz in La Bodega downstairs. It’s easy to become sucked into the tango obsession that prevails in the capital and there are numerous venues to listen to, watch or participate in tango. El Viejo Almacén, Avenida Independencia and Balcarce, San Telmo (website: www.viejo-almacen.com.ar), offers a tango dinner and show. But for an economical taste of a tango, make your way to Bar Sur, Calle Estados Unidos 299, San Telmo (website: www.bar-sur.com.ar), where audience participation is encouraged. Tourists in search of live blues and rock should make a beeline for El Samovar de Rasputin or Del Valle Iberlucca in Caminito, La Boca. Jazz fans should try the Thelonius Bar, Calle Salguero 1884.

City Statistics

City Statistics
Location: Provincia de Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Country dialling code: 54.
Population: 3,046,600 (city); 12,955,300 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT - 3 (GMT + 4 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-round-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 29°C (84°F).
Average July temp: 14°C (57°F).
Annual rainfall: 950mm (37 inches).

Special Events

Buenos Aires Independent Film Festival, mid-Apr, various venues
Buenos Aires Book Fair, mid-Apr-early May, La Rural Exhibition Complex
Arte BA, art fair, Jul, La Rural Exhibition Complex
International Guitar Festival, Oct, various venues
Gay Pride, parade, early Nov, city centre streets
Día de la Tradición, gaucho festival, 10 Nov 2002, San Antonio de Areco
Buenos Aires World Tango Championships, contest, congress and dance classes, mid-Nov, various venues
Argentine Open Polo Championships, mid-Nov-mid-Dec 2002, Campo Argentino de Polo de Palermo

Cost of Living

1 Argentine Peso ($1) = £0.20; US$0.34; C$0.40; A$0.45; ¬0.29
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005