World City Guide

Restaurants

Introduction
You will encounter many different kinds of eateries in Budapest. Here are some of the most common:
Étterem: This is a generic term for a restaurant. Étteremek are ubiquitous and range in price and quality from McDonald's at one end to the likes of Gundel at the other.
Vendéglõ: Typically a small restaurant with more traditional furnishings.
Sörözõ: A beer hall or pub. Most of them have just as wide a selection of food as any restaurant.
Borozó: A wine bar. They typically carry several kinds of wine, but most have very little or no food.

We have selected 15 of the best restaurants in Budapest, which we have listed under five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. These restaurants are divided into four different pricing categories (the prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal and for half a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent per person; they do not include tax or tip):

$ (under HUF2,000)
$$ (HUF2,000 to HUF4,000)
$$$ (HUF4,000 to HUF8,000)
$$$$ (over HUF8,000)

The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Reservations are recommended wherever possible.

Gastronomic

Arany Kaviár
Situated on a quiet street below the Buda Castle, Budapest’s leading Russian restaurant has a lovely ambiance (the décor is reminiscent of the homes of the19th century Russian bourgeoisie) and superb service (courteous and attentive), yet it is most definitely the food that really steals the show. Although referred to as a Russian restaurant, the fare at Arany Kaviár is not exclusively Russian; the menu incorporates the gastronomic traditions of all the nations that were once part of the Old Russian Empire, such as Armenia, the Ukraine, or Georgia. The main emphasis in the menu is laid on fish dishes and, of course, caviar. Here you will find the richest and most exclusive selection of fine caviar in Budapest, including the world-famous beluga, sevruga and osetra caviars, which all feature on the menu. The restaurant offers a selection of the finest Russian vodkas, all served ice cold. Lovers of warmer and less alcoholic beverages will have an amazing range of exclusive teas to choose from. Served in a samovar, naturally.

Ostrom útca 19
Tel: (01) 201 6737
Website: www.aranykaviar.hu
Price range: $$$$

Fausto
Fausto is considered by many as Budapest’s finest Italian restaurant. The setting here is elegant, with and antique furniture and large round tables covered in crisp white linen, and the food first class. The menu includes a variety of soups and traditional Italian starters, followed by primi and secondi piati of meat or fish, and the fresh seafood is truly excellent. Menu changes with the season. Italian haute cuisine doesn't come cheap but there are more than 70 kinds of Italian and Hungarian wines available to ease the pain. Book well in advance.

Dohány útca 5
Tel: (01) 269 6806.
Website: www.fausto.hu
Price range: $$$$

Gundel
This is the city’s fanciest and most famous restaurant, a real institution in the capital, and probably the only restaurant in town with an international reputation. Traditional dishes with an innovative twist and wonderfully complemented by an extensive wine list. The historical surroundings are a feast for the eyes too. Male dinner guests are required to wear a jacket. Reservations are required in the evening.

XIV Allatkerti útca 2
Tel: (01) 468 4040.
Webiste: www.gundel.hu
Price range: $$$$

Business

Bombay Palace
The Budapest branch of this international chain doesn't disappoint. Although it used to attract a mainly Brit and American clientele, locals are now coming in greater numbers. The Bombay's two large dining rooms, with chandeliers and marble flooring, are suitably impressive for a restaurant just a short walk away from the Opera. Fine traditional Indian food, Amstel beer on tap and impeccable, friendly service make this upscale restaurant a reliable choice.

VI Andrassy útca 44
Tel (01) 332 8363.
Website: www.bombay-palace.com
Price range: $$$

Remiz
Remiz (named after the local tram depot next door) is a popular restaurant serving generous helpings of hearty Hungarian food. Locals and tourists alike eat here (the menu is available in six languages), and with several dining rooms and a wonderful outdoor terrace, Remiz is an equally suitable venue for a long Sunday lunch with the family, as for a business dinner with clients. The menu changes every month to allow for fresh seasonal offerings, but it is in the summer that the restaurant truly comes into its own, as with the nice weather the kitchen relocate in the big garden and grilled dishes are cooked outdoors over lava stones (from May to September). An extensive wine list is available, featuring many of Hungary’s best vintages. Open daily until midnight.

Budakeszi útca 5
Tel: (01) 275 1396 or 394 1896.
Website: www.remiz.hu
Price: $$ - $$$

Robinson Restaurant
Situated on a tiny island on the edge of City Park, Robinson Restaurant enjoys a truly exotic location, and provides a welcome escape from the buzz of Andrassy Street a few minute walk away. The restaurant itself is spacious, with a lofty lakeside patio and a rooftop terrace that are very popular in summer, and should the weather be uncooperative, there are plenty more seats in the big downstairs dining room - the huge windows allow for a superb view of the ducks swimming on the lake and the beautiful Vajdahunyad Castle in the distance. The food is good, portions generous (as in almost everywhere in Budapest) and the service friendly and efficient. Reservations are recommended, especially in summer.

XIV Varosligeti to (City Park Lake)
Tel: (01) 422 0222.
Price range: $$$

Trendy

Articsoka
One of Budapest’s most recent arrivals, Articsoka (meaning 'artichoke') is a swanky affair located just a few minutes walk away from Parliament in downtown Budapest. Extended opening hours (the restaurant is open from noon until midnight) mean that the Articksoka has both breakfast and lunch menus. The dishes here are mainly influenced by Mediterranean cuisine, and the décor (orange walls, glass ceiling, palm trees and plenty of greenery, not to mention the artwork on the walls) likewise has a warm, sunny feel to it. The dining areas are spacious and there are both small and long tables with comfortable chairs and seats with cushions along the wall.

VI Zichy Jeno útca
Tel: 302 7757.
Website: www.articsoka.hu
Price range: $$ - $$$

Buena Vista
A trendy new haunt in the recently rejuvenated area around Liszt Ferenc Square, Buena Vista is a café/brasserie which not only boasts a large open terrace where customers can eat in the shade in summer, but also a likeable bright and airy dining area split over three floors inside. The food, of Mediterranean inspiration, is good, and covers the gamut, from light salads, soups and sandwiches, to fish and meat dishes, and the portions are generous. There is also an excellent choice of beers, wines and spirits, as well as cocktails.

VI Liszt Ferenc tér 4-5
Tel: (01) 344 6303.
Website: www.buena-vista.hu
Price range: $$

Spoon Café and Lounge
Spoon is unique in many ways: the restaurant, which opened in August 2003 and is docked across from the Buda Castle, is a replica of a big white cruise ship. The decor here is tastefully modern, and the food very much international (with numerous dishes from the sea, as one would expect), and with culinary secrets obtained anywhere from Spain to Thailand, topped with the delicate finishing touches of Spoon’s talented chef Zsolt Beke. The breath-taking view of Budapest that can be seen from anywhere on the ship, especially in the evening, adds to the overall enchantment.

V Vigadó tér 3
Kikötõ (állóhajó)
Tel: (01) 411 0933/34.
Website: www.spooncafe.hu
Price range: $$$

Budget

Café Kor
The ever popular Cafe Kor first opened several years ago as a miniscule bar but has since occupied a more spacious premises near the Basilica, and a brand new terrace was opened last summer. The interior here has a relaxed and cozy café-like atmosphere, and the light, airy bistro is very popular with young ex-pats, students, and Hungarian yuppies seeking lighter fare (as opposed to the heavier European food present in the area). Chef Ádám Répás prepares one of the most imaginative menus based on traditional Hungarian cuisine, but made following a lighter western taste. The menu changes daily, and the home-made desserts are to die for too. Wine is available by the glass, and it is possible to order smaller portions at reduced cost.

V Sas útca, 17
Tel: (01) 311 0053.
Price range: $ - $$

Gerbeaud
This landmark Budapest café-confectionery is a must-see. The interior is gorgeous, done up in turn-of-the-20th-century Austro-Hungarian opulence, complete with rich plaster work, magnificent chandeliers, marble tables, lavish fine wood paneling, and brocade wall coverings. Among other decorative items is the piano that was intended for use on board the Titanic (it failed to make it onboard on time). Enjoy the classic coffee-house atmosphere in the various salons, whiling away the day reading newspapers, chatting or people-watching and enjoy the wide variety of beautiful cakes, pastries and ice-creams on offer. Drinks include freshly brewed coffee and home made hot chocolate drinks. Ask for your bill at the same time as placing your order.

V Vorosmarty ter 7
Tel: (01) 429 9000
Website: www.gerbeaud.hu
Price range: $

Marquis de Salade
What started as a little wooden salad bar has over the years evolved into a spacious ground-floor eatery and cellar accommodating up to 100 guests. The food at Marquis de Salade, however, is as popular as ever. Georgian and Azerbaijani dishes are a specialty here, although the menu features dishes from around the world. Pick and mix your own assortment for a truly delicious meal. The wines are impressive too, and the countries of origin vary (and so do the prices).

VI Hajos útca 43
Tel: (01) 302 4086
Price range: $

Personal Recommendations

Kepiro
Tucked away in a side street a short walk from Kalvin Ter metro station, this is a little gem of a restaurant, and one of our favourites. Indeed Kepiro, which was voted best of Budapest in the international cuisine category by Budapest Week magazine in 2003, and received a Michelin recommendation in 2004, is fast becoming a compulsory stop for serious gourmets in the Hungarian capital. Not only is the décor here strikingly original and the atmosphere cosy (the elegant interior is juxtaposed with large scale artwork by Hungarian artist Ákos Birkás, a dramatic effect but one which works well), the service is also efficient and friendly, and the food (mainly of European inspiration with a Hungarian flavouring) is simply fantastic. While many restaurants in Budapest pay more attention to quantity than quality, the success of Kepiro lies in subtle flavours and audacious combinations that make the dishes truly unique. The menu, which changes according to the season (to ensure the freshest ingredients are always used) us accompanied by a good list of Hungarian wines, which includes famous vintages as well as wines from lesser-known smaller vineyards. There is live jazz music on Saturday evenings, and wine pairing evenings every month too. Closed Sunday.

V Képiró útca 3
Tel.: (01) 266 04 30
Website: www.kepirorestaurant.com
Price range: $$$

Kisbuda Gyöngye
Located in Obuda, and therefore slightly out of the way (although relatively quickly reached by taxi), Kisbuda Gyöngye is however well worth seeking out. The restaurant, which offers an elegant setting full of old world charm, is perfect for a romantic dinner, as the room, with its antique furniture and its beautiful hand painted ceiling, has a warm and intimate atmosphere. The menu, which features both traditional Hungarian dishes (including several game dishes) and more international offerings, reflects traditional cuisine but is updated to satisfy modern tastes. More than 100 wines are available, including some of Hungary’s internationally acclaimed vintages. There is live piano music every night, with jazz, traditional folk music and classical tunes played on an old piano in the middle of the room, to the delight of diners. Closed Sundays.

Kenyeres útca 34
Tel: (01) 368 6402.
Website: www.remiz.hu
Price: $$$

Marxim’s
This tongue in cheek pizza place in Buda makes for a peculiar experience, so although it’s not on the tourist path, it’s well worth seeking out. The communist theme, as the name indicates, is what makes the restaurant special. Here booths are separated by barbed and chicken wires, there are replicas of communist posters on the walls and even one uniform-clad mannequin. But the really fun bit is ordering from a menu featuring pizzas with names such as Snow White and the Seven Proletars, Pussy Pussy Monica and Bill (I’m not making this up promise!), Gordi Gorbi, Red October, Siberian Dreams, Gulag Pizza, CCCP izza, Preelection Promises and my favourite, Antivegetarian (a meat ladden pizza!). And although it’s the unique atmosphere people come here for, the food is pretty good too, and cheap (proletarians would approve), making this a winner for travellers on a budget, and those wanting something a bit different.

II Kisrókus útca 23
Tel: (01) 316 02 31
Price range: $