World City Guide

The Welsh capital is a city undergoing major renewal, as is evidenced by the amount of building and reconstruction that is taking place. Most noticeable of all, particularly for the visitor emerging from the railway station, is the looming modernity of the Millennium Stadium, which dominates the skyline on the western edge of the city centre. Both in the city centre itself and at the equally impressive Cardiff Bay development, home to the brand new Wales Millennium Centre, an air of optimistic rejuvenation is almost palpable.

Home of the recently established Welsh National Assembly, Cardiff is currently on an upward curve, virtually a city reinvented since the low points of the 1970s and 1980s. Then it was difficult to believe that less than a century earlier, the city had been one of the great powerhouses of the British Empire, exporting vast amounts of coal from the nearby Valleys and steel from the huge plants in South Wales. When these industries all but died out during the last quarter of the 20th century, prospects appeared bleak. Yet, thanks to government and European Union encouragement, new employers have moved in to help fill the economic void. A measure of this successful economic regeneration is the fact that available hotel bed spaces in Cardiff have increased by over 40% in the past five or so years.

Even now, however, visitors should not go to Cardiff expecting the cosmopolitan sophistication of larger, longer established capitals. Located in the south of Wales and looking onto the Severn Estuary, the city was only officially recognised as a capital in 1955 and it retains a friendly ‘small town’ quality that spirited self-promotion and inward investment have not entirely shaken off, perhaps to its benefit. Even so, it has a vibrant atmosphere and a lively music scene and nightlife, due in part to the presence of 26,000 or so students based at the city’s universities.

The central area, with its seven delightful Victorian shopping arcades and traffic-free streets, extends from the railway station to the impressive castle. This is Cardiff’s traditional commercial and social heart but, increasingly, Cardiff Bay, 2km (1 mile) or so to the south, is gaining ground in the entertainment and leisure stakes, as well as becoming an important administrative centre.

Indeed, Cardiff Bay has altered beyond recognition, from its past as the world's largest coal exporting port to a modern sport and leisure complex; it is also Europe's largest waterfront development and it has a wealth of leisure activities available both on and off the water. The Bay is home to a number of attractions such as Techniquest Science Discovery Centre, Craft in the Bay, The Welsh Assembly at the Pierhead, Butetown History and Arts Centre, Goleulong 2000 Lightship, the Norwegian Church Arts Centre and the brand new Wales Millennium Centre, a stunning and international arts centre. The Atlantic Wharf Leisure Village provides further options for family entertainment.

As with any newborn entity (phoenix or otherwise), Cardiff has further growth to undergo before maturity is reached. However, Wales as a whole has grown in self-esteem now its status as a nation is recognised by the UK government. Cardiff embodies this new confidence. What’s more, Cardiff this year (2005) celebrates its centenary as a city and 50 years as Welsh capital, so this newly found confidence will no doubt be boosted some more.

Cardiff’s climate is quite temperate, without extreme variation between seasons and rain, sometimes quite a lot of it, all year round.

Getting There By Air

Cardiff International Airport (CWL)
Tel: (01446) 711 111.
Website: www.cardiffairportonline.com

Cardiff International Airport is located at Rhoose, 19km (12 miles) southwest of the city centre. As a regional airport, it is much smaller than the major UK international hubs. Even so, it handles currently about 1.5 million passengers annually, with a capacity for three million.

Major airlines: Direct scheduled flights are provided by the national carrier, British Airways (tel: (0845) 773 377 or (0845) 779 9977; website: www.ba.com), to Aberdeen, Belfast, Brussels and Paris. Other airlines include KLM (website: www.klm.com), which offers a connection to Amsterdam, and British Midland subsidiary Bmibaby (website: www.bmibaby.com), which serves Belfast, Edinburgh, Geneva, Glasgow, Jersey, Milan, Alicante, Faro and Malaga. Air Wales (website: www.airwales.com) connects Cardiff with Cork and Dublin, while low-cost airline Ryanair (website: www.ryanair.com) also serves the Irish capital. A number of airlines run seasonal charter services to mainland Europe and further afield.

Approximate flight times to Cardiff: From New York is 8 hours 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 20 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 50 minutes and from Sydney is 24 hours 20 minutes. These times include stopovers and transfers. There are no flights between London and Cardiff but London Heathrow is less than three hours away by rail and a little longer by road.

Airport facilities: Banking and exchange facilities are available. There is also a 24-hour information desk, ATM, duty-free shops, restaurants, cafés and pubs, and car hire from Avis, Europcar and Hertz.

Business facilities: There is no business centre in the airport. There is an executive lounge in the departures lounge, with Internet access, fax and photocopiers, as well as refreshments and newspapers. Fax and photocopying facilities are available at the information desk in the main terminal.

Transport to the city: From summer 2005, a rail link will connect Cardiff International Airport to Cardiff Central and Bridgend. Trains will run each direction every hour, with onward connections possible to other destinations on the rail network. For further information, including fares and timetables, contact National Rail Enquiries (tel: (0845) 748 4950). Cardiff Bus (tel: (029) 2066 6444; website: www.cardiffbus.com) service X91 operates direct between Cardiff city centre (including Central Station) and the airport with up to a half hourly frequency on Mondays to Fridays, hourly on Saturdays and Sundays. Additional Cardiff Bus service 95 runs via Barry on Monday to Saturday evenings.

Shamrock Coaches (tel: (01443) 407 000 or (01446) 722800; website: www.shamrocktravel.co.uk) runs bus X45 hourly 0630-1830 Monday to Saturday. On Monday to Saturday evenings, hourly between 1936 and 2236, EST (tel: (01446) 793 100) operates bus 345. First (website: www.firstgroup.com) X5 coach runs every two hours from Cardiff Airport to Cardiff coach station 0845-2135 on Sunday only. Cardiff Air Taxis (tel: (01446) 710 693) charge approximately £20 for trips to and from the city centre (journey time – 20-30 minutes). The nearest railway station is 8km (5 miles) away, at Barry, with connections from Cardiff.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Driving regulations in Wales are the same as for the rest of the UK. Main roads are designated by a letter, followed by up to four numbers: an ‘M’ indicates a motorway, ‘A’ a major trunk road and ‘B’ minor roads. Traffic drives on the left and overtakes on the right. The speed limits are 113kph (70mph) on motorways and dual carriageways, 97kph (60mph) on single-lane main roads and 48kph (30mph) in built-up areas, unless otherwise indicated. Seatbelts are compulsory for drivers and front-seat passengers and for rear-seat passengers, if fitted. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. The legal driving age is 18 years. Overseas driving licences and International Driving Permits are valid for driving in Britain for up to one year. Insurance is mandatory. Overseas motorists should bring registration documents and ask their insurance company if a Green Card is required.

Mantais Cymru (Traffic Wales) provides traffic and road user information for travel to, from and within Wales (tel: (0845) 602 6020; website: www.traffic-wales.com). Breakdown service and general motoring information is provided by the Automobile Association (tel: (0870) 550 0600; website: www.theaa.co.uk), the Royal Automobile Club – RAC (tel: (0870) 572 2722; website: www.rac.co.uk) and Green Flag (tel: (0800) 001 371; website: www.greenflag.co.uk).

Emergency breakdown services:
AA (0800) 887 766 (toll free)
Green Flag (0800) 400 600 (toll free)
RAC (0800) 828 282 (toll free)

Routes to the city: The M4 is the main direct route to Cardiff from elsewhere in the UK, through London, Reading, Swindon, Bath and Bristol, crossing the Second Severn Crossing (M4) and continuing on to Swansea. From the north and Midlands, the M5 passes through Birmingham to link with the M4 near Bristol. The Severn Suspension Bridge (M48) provides an alternate route over the River Severn. A toll (westbound only) is charged on both bridges. Eastbound crossings from Wales into England are free for all vehicles. Toll charges are revised every January (tel: (01454) 633 522, for details).

Approximate driving times to Cardiff: From Swansea – 1 hour; Birmingham – 2 hours 30 minutes; London – 3 hours.

Coach services: National Express (tel: (0870) 580 8080; website: www.gobycoach.com) runs direct services between Cardiff and most other major UK towns and cities. It also operates services to Ireland via the Fishguard-Rosslare ferry. Eurolines (part of National Express) serves destinations on mainland Europe.

Cardiff’s coach and bus station is on Wood Street, immediately outside the railway station. About a dozen different coach and bus operators offer services around the city and further afield. Facilities are sparse but include a newsagent, fast-food outlets and a taxi rank. The terminal also is close to city centre amenities.

Getting There By Rail

The main rail companies for long distance cross-country services to and from Cardiff are First Great Western (tel: (08457) 484 950; website: www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk) and Virgin Trains (tel: (08457) 222 333; website: www.virgintrains.co.uk). Express services are generally fast and comfortable, although the further west they go, the more frequent are the stops and the slower the run. Local and regional routes are operated by Arriva Trains Wales (tel: 0870 9000 773 for tickets; website: www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk). Local services are by their nature less rapid, serving numerous smaller stations. Most trains are relatively new but there is still some older rolling stock in service on the minor Valley Lines routes, which can be a bit noisy and rough-riding. National Rail Enquiries (tel: (08457) 484 950) handles all rail enquiries.

Cardiff Central, Central Square, is the main rail station. The booking office is open Monday to Saturday 0545-2130 and Sunday 0645-2130. Facilities include a tourist information centre, ATMs, newsagent/bookseller and a fast-food outlet. Hertz has a car hire office immediately outside the main building in Central Square.

Rail services: Hourly services to and from London Paddington are run by First Great Western via Reading, Swindon, Bristol Parkway and Newport (journey time – 2 hours). There are also rail connections between Cardiff, Swansea (journey time – 1 hour) and West Wales, as well as long distance cross-country services to cities such as Newcastle-upon-Tyne (journey time – 6 hours), York (journey time – 4 hours 40 minutes), Sheffield (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes) and Birmingham (journey time – 2 hours), operated by Virgin Trains.

Transport to the city: Cardiff Central is located southwest of the city centre, approximately a three-minute walk. The bus station and a taxi stand are located immediately outside the station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Public transport in the city is by bus and the main provider is Cardiff Bus (tel: (029) 2066 6444 or (0870) 608 2608; website: www.cardiffbus.com), which is based opposite the central bus station on Wood Street. Buses generally operate between 0530 and 2330 with reduced hours at the weekend and on public holidays. A system of colour-coded fare zones operates, with the city centre being Zone A (red). Tickets are available for purchase on the bus and passengers must have the exact change. Multiride tickets and other discounted passes are available from the Cardiff Bus office. A 24-hour CityRider pass, giving unlimited travel on all Cardiff Bus services within Cardiff and Penarth. First Cymru (tel: (01792) 580 580; website: www.firstgroup.com) operates some regional bus services from 0500 to 2320. A First Day pass is available for one day of unlimited travel on all First local buses (except shuttle services) within South Wales. These are available for purchase on the bus.

Local train services are run Arriva Trains Wales (tel: 0870 9000 773; website: www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk), which operate approximately 0500-2430 on weekdays, starting later at the weekend and on public holidays. In addition to Cardiff Central, there are several local rail stations, including Cardiff Queen Street, Cardiff Bay and Cathays. Tickets are available for purchase at the station or on board. A Day Explorer pass is also available. This allows for one day of unlimited travel on train and bus services around the Valleys, as well as discounts for tourist attractions along the way. However, this pass is not valid for trains between Cardiff Central, Bridgend, Maesteg or Newport.

General information on public transport throughout Wales is available from Mantais Cymru (tel: (0870) 608 2608).

Taxis
All taxis can be hailed on the street, whether black hackney cabs or cars with company logos indicating that they are taxis. Alternatively, taxis can be ordered by telephone from any of dozens of firms in Cardiff, such as Black Cabs (tel: (029) 2034 3343), Central Taxis (tel: (029) 2066 6333) and Dragon Taxis (tel: (029) 2044 4444). Visitors should expect to pay about £4.00 for a journey across town, plus tip of approximately 10-12% of the fare.

Driving in the City
Driving in Cardiff is usually trouble free, although traffic becomes heavy during rush hours (Monday to Friday 0800-0900 and 1700-1800). Finding a parking space on the street can be more problematic, as many of the residential roads in the centre are for permit holders only. Although cars that contravene parking regulations may be towed away, a parking fine is more usual. There are ten or more large multi-storey car parks in and around the city centre, including three near Cardiff Central station and six more within a short walk. A park and ride bus runs on Saturday from Maritime Street on Cardiff Bay. Parking charges for one hour range from £1 to £2, while 24-hour parking in the multi-storey car parks is charged at approximately £9.50.

Car Hire
Regulations vary from company to company. However, in all cases, drivers will require a valid driving licence to hire a car. This can usually be a national driving licence, although an International Driving Permit may be preferred if the licence is not in English. A credit card is essential. The minimum age to hire a car is 18 years, although this may be increased to 21 or 25 years, depending on the company. It is important for drivers to check the level of insurance included in the price of car hire.

In addition to Europcar, Avis and Hertz at the airport, city-based car hire companies include Avis, 14-22 Tudor Street, Riverside (tel: (029) 2034 2111; website: www.avis.co.uk), 1car1.com, 4 Garth Street (tel: (029) 2046 4537; website: www.1car1.com) and Hertz, 9 Central Square (tel: (029) 2022 4548; website: www.hertz.co.uk).

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles can be hired from Cardiff Touring Caravan and Camping Park, Dogo Street (off Cathedral Road) (tel: (029) 2039 8362). The Taff Trail, which is ideal for cyclists, extends from Cardiff Bay to Brecon, 87km (54 miles) to the north.

Business

Business Etiquette
As in most modern urban centres, the nine-to-five mentality is no longer prevalent, with many employees working much longer hours. All public-sector organisations are bilingual but most private companies conduct business in English unless all parties speak Welsh. Overseas visitors should be prepared to speak English during meetings, if necessary through an interpreter. It is common practice to shake hands in greeting and to use ‘Mr’, ‘Ms’ etc. plus surnames, until both parties agree to use forenames. Professional or honorary titles should be acknowledged. Punctuality is expected for business meetings and suits are customary for both men and women; men should also wear a tie. It is advisable to carry business cards.

Business meetings in the UK can be fairly formal affairs, depending on their level. It is common for lunches and dinners to form part of the process and visiting business people are often entertained out of working hours by their hosts. However, it is more usual for the party doing the ‘selling’ to provide the hospitality, rather than the ‘buyer’. The exchange of gifts is not usually necessary but often the ‘seller’ will present them. It is also common for staff to socialise out of working hours at a local pub or wine bar, particularly towards the end of the week both during the lunch hour and immediately after the working day is over.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Being in the throes of redevelopment, especially around the Cardiff Bay area, the city is constantly opening up new attractions. The old favourites (Cardiff Castle, Llandaff Cathedral and the museums) are still popular and as worthy of a visit as ever but they must now compete with the newcomers, most of which are concentrated on the waterfront. For this reason, visitors could consider Cardiff Bay as one huge tourist attraction and approach individual sights as components within it.

Attractions are dotted all over the city. The Millennium Stadium and Cardiff Castle, for example, are in the city centre, the National Museum and Gallery is a short distance away, at Cathays Park, while the Museum of Welsh Life is in St Fagans, on the city’s western outskirts. The cathedral is situated in what is quaintly called ‘the City of Llandaff’, 3km (2 miles) from the city centre.

Tourist Information
Cardiff Gateway Visitor Centre
The Old Library, The Hayes (city centre)
Tel: (029) 2022 7281 or 0870 909 2005. Fax: (029) 2063 9162.
E-mail: enquiries@cardifftic.co.uk
Website: www.visitcardiff.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1800, Sun 1000-1600.

Cardiff Bay Visitor Centre (The Tube)
Harbour Drive, Cardiff Bay
Tel: (029) 2046 3833.
E-mail: thetube@thecardiffinitiative.co.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1800 (1700 Nov-Mar), Sat and Sun 1030- 1800 (1700 Nov-Mar), Bank holidays 1030-1700.

Passes
The new Cardiff Card offers discounts on many of the city’s top attractions, restaurants and shops, including Cardiff Castle, the Millennium Stadium and Cardiff Bay Cruises. Cards can be purchased from the Tourist Information Centres in the Old Library, The Hayes and the tube in Cardiff Bay.

Key Attractions

Cardiff Castle (Castell Caerdydd)
Founded in Roman times and developed into a stronghold by the Normans, the ruins of the Norman keep remain. However, the present castle owes its appeal to the Victorian eccentricities of the third Marquis of Bute (1848-1900). Under his direction, architect William Burges (1827-1881) added neo-Gothic towers and ornate interiors with murals, stained glass windows and decorative carving. The castle also houses two military museums and has extensive grounds, incorporated into Bute Park.

Castle Street
Tel: (029) 2087 8100.
Website: www.cardiff.gov.uk/castle
Admission charge.

Millennium Stadium (Stadiwm y Milleniwm)
Located on the hallowed turf of the former Cardiff Arms Park, the 72,500-capacity Millennium Stadium is one of the most modern sports venues in Europe. Plans for the complex include a Rugby Hall of Fame, a Welsh Rugby Union Museum and a riverside walkway accessible by boat. Guided tours are available, taking visitors to the pitch, dressing rooms, royal box and other areas.

Westgate Street
Tel: (029) 2082 2228.
Website: www.millenniumstadium.co.uk
Admission charge.

Llandaff Cathedral (Eglwys Gadeiriol Llandaf)
Located 3km (2 miles) from the city centre, in a quiet conservation area, Llandaff Cathedral was founded by St Teilo, in the sixth century, although work began on the present building in 1107. The edifice’s full name is The Cathedral and Parish Church of Saints Peter and Paul, Dyfrig, Teilo and Euddogwy. In 1734, the first of several restorations got underway, the last of which was just after World War II, as a result of German bombing badly damaging the nave. The cathedral nowadays is a mix of styles from all these periods. In the sanctuary is St Teilo’s Tomb, which, before the Reformation, made the church one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Wales.

Cardiff Road, Llandaff
Tel: (029) 2056 4554.
Website: www.llandaffcathedral.org.uk
Free admission.

Cathays Park (Parc Cathays)
This impressive, tree-lined area of monumental, white Portland stone buildings reflects the wealth coal and steel industries brought to the city in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Highlights include Cardiff University, the Law Courts, City Hall, Alexandra Gardens and the National Museum and Gallery. This museum and gallery boasts an extensive collection of art and archaeology, including a fine collection of Impressionist paintings, Bronze Age treasures and Celtic artefacts. The Evolution of Wales exhibition traces the natural history of Wales over 4,600 million years.

City Centre
Tel: (029) 2068 4000 (Cardiff County Council Highways and Parks).
Free admission.

National Museum and Gallery (Amgueddfa ac Oriel Genedlaethol)
Tel: (029) 2039 7951.
Website: www.nmgw.ac.uk
Free admission; charge for some temporary exhibitions.

Cardiff Bay (Bae Caerdydd)
Cardiff Bay juxtaposes outstanding modern architecture, 19th-century dockland heritage and the natural assets of the waterfront to create a striking environment. The Cardiff Bay Barrage (tel: (029) 2087 7900), open to the public since June 2001, created a new freshwater lake and 12km (7.5 miles) of waterfront with parks, entertainment complexes, shops, bars and restaurants. Some of the completed schemes include the St David’s Hotel & Spa, Mermaid Quay shopping and leisure centre and the Atlantic Wharf leisure complex. Boat tours around the Bay and out to the Barrage are available, operated by Cardiff Cats (tel: (029) 2048 8842).

Canolfan Mileniwm Cymru (Wales Millennium Centre), the brand new home of the Welsh National Opera and other major Welsh arts organizations, opened with great fanfare in November 2004 (see Culture).

Other interesting buildings in the area date back to Cardiff’s heyday in the last century, and include the redbrick Pierhead Building, which houses an exhibition about the Welsh National Assembly, and the striking Norwegian Church Arts Centre, where author Roald Dahl was christened. Nearby is Techniquest, the UK’s largest interactive science discovery centre. An unusual and interesting attraction, operated by the Churches of Wales, is the Goleulong 2000 Lightship, which is the centre for the Bay Chaplaincy and incorporates a chapel. The public can tour the ship, visit the café or come in and pray or chat with someone on the team.

Another must is the Cardiff Bay Visitor Centre – locals call it the ‘Tube’, as it resembles a giant futuristic telescope. Designed by William Alsop, the centre combines a steel frame with plywood panels beneath a waterproof skin. The glass end of the tube offers a panoramic view across the bay. It is a popular meeting, conference and presentation venue and provides detailed information on Cardiff Bay.

Cardiff Bay
Tel: (029) 2046 3833.
Website: www.cardiffbay.co.uk
Free admission.

Norwegian Church Arts Centre
Harbour Drive
Tel: (029) 2045 4899 or (0870) 013 1812 (box office).
Website: www.arts4cardiff.co.uk/eng/membersDetail.php/cid=53
Free admission; performance prices vary.

Techniquest
Stuart Street
Tel: (029) 2047 5475.
Website: www.tquest.org.uk
Admission charge.

Goleulong 2000 Lightship
Harbour Drive
Tel: (029) 2048 7609.
Website: www.lightship2000.org.uk
Free admission.

Museum of Welsh Life (Amgueddfa Werin Cymru)
This museum is set in 42 hectares (104 acres) of parkland, in the village of St Fagans, west of the city centre. It has sufficient scope to keep visitors occupied for a full day and, like the National Museum, there is no charge for admission. The Elizabethan mansion, St Fagans Castle, is under refurbishment in the style of a late-Victorian Welsh mansion. An extensive collection of historic Welsh buildings, including a 19th-century farmyard, pottery, tannery and a Victorian schoolroom, have been brought from all over Wales and rebuilt in the extensive grounds. There is also a recreated Iron-age Celtic village on the site.

St Fagans Castle
Tel: (029) 2057 3500.
Website: www.nmgw.ac.uk
Free admission.

Further Distractions

Green Spaces
Roath Park is one of the city’s most attractive parks, with rose gardens, a boating lake and a memorial to Captain Scott, who set sail from Cardiff on his Antarctic expedition. Bute Park, formerly the grounds of the castle, is also a delightful place to stroll. Few cities can boast such a green route directly into its heart as the Taff Trail, a cycle route that winds its way north to south from Brecon through Cardiff city centre to Cardiff Bay.

Tel: (029) 2068 4000 (Cardiff County Council Highways and Parks Service Area).

Roath Park
Approximately 2km (1 mile) northeast of the city centre
Free admission.

Bute Park
Castle Street
Free admission.

Tours of the City

WalesLink Visitor Services (tel: (029) 2052 2202) provides guides for planned itinerary tours of Cardiff and Wales.

Walking Tours
Group walking tours of the Cardiff Bay area can be booked through the Cardiff Bay Tours (tel: (029) 2070 7882). A two-hour guided tour takes in the major points of interest around Cardiff Bay.

Bus Tours
City Sightseeing (tel: (01708) 866 000; website: www.city-sightseeing.com) operates frequent circular ‘hop-on, hop-off’ open-top bus tours of Cardiff departing from the castle every day from Easter to October. The bus stops at major sights around the city and at Cardiff Bay and the full trip takes a little under an hour.

Other Tours
A number of boat tours operate from Mermaid Quay, which allow you to gain an understanding of the history and fauna of this exciting area. Cardiff Waterbus (tel: 07940 142409; website: www.cardiffcats.com) has introduced a new taxi service which operates throughout the year from the Bay to the city centre and Penarth.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Castell Coch: Situated in woodland at Tongwynlais, just outside the city on the A470, this landmark is a memorial to the imagination of the third Marquis of Bute, his skilled architect William Burges and the Victorian idealisation of all things medieval. Built on the site of a 13th-century fort, Castell Coch (tel: (029) 2081 0101; website: www.castlewales.com/coch.html) has all the trappings of a fairytale castle. There is a car park for those with their own car; alternatively, the train (or bus 26) goes to Taff’s Well station.

Big Pit (Pwll Mawr) – National Mining Museum of Wales: Central to Cardiff’s past glory was the coal industry of the Valleys and at Blaenafon, about 40km (25 miles) northeast of the city. Visitors can now take a guided trip, led by an ex-miner, 90m (300ft) underground to see a coal mine. Blaenafon is a newly designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. As with other national Welsh museums, admission to Big Pit is now free of charge. A visit lasts a minimum of two-and-a-half hours and warm clothing is recommended. Children under five, or less than one metre tall (three feet), are not allowed underground. Big Pit (tel: (01495) 790 311; website: www.nmgw.ac.uk/bigpit) is open daily from March to November, 0930-1700 (tours run from 1000-1530). From Cardiff, public transport is by train to Newport. Direct buses to the museum (approximately a 20-minute walk from the centre of Blaenafon) leave from Newport bus station three times each morning. By car, is the easiest option from Cardiff is for visitors to take the M4, which runs east to Junction 25A, then the A4042 to Pontypool and the A472/4043 into Blaenafon.

For a Whole Day

Brecon Beacons National Park: This area of stunning mountains, moorland and forest is one the treasures of South Wales. Brecon Beacons National Park (tel: (01874) 624 437; website: www.breconbeacons.org) is situated to the north of Cardiff and transport (by train from Cardiff to Merthyr Tydfil plus scenic bus connection to Brecon) is almost as pleasurable as the visit itself. Drivers should take the picturesque route via the Usk Valley.

Sport

Shopping

The main delights of shopping in Cardiff are to be found in the specialist shops and boutiques within the seven Victorian and Edwardian arcades located around the city centre. Major department stores, such as Howells, are situated in Working Street and Queen Street, the main pedestrian thoroughfares and in the shopping malls – Capitol Centre, Queen’s Arcade and St David’s Centre. Mermaid Quay is a new development at the head of the inner harbour, designed as a ‘Covent Garden-on-sea’, with growing numbers of speciality shops, restaurants and cafés. Cardiff Central Market, housed in an attractive Victorian ironwork building with entrances on St Mary Street and Working Street, sells fresh produce, including fish, meat and Welsh cheeses and is open Monday to Saturday 0900-1700. About 50 antique sellers take part in the market at Jacob’s Antique Centre, West Canal Wharf (tel: (029) 2039 0939), open 1000-1700 Thursday to Saturday. The Welsh Tartan Centre, 30 Castle Arcade (tel: (029) 2022 8272; website: www.welsh-tartan.com), sells Welsh tartan gifts. There is a small specialist Chinese supermarket in Tudor Street, across the river from the Millennium Stadium.

Normal shopping hours are 0900-1800, although many shops open later on Thursday and Friday, while some major stores open on Sundays. At shops displaying ‘Tax Free Shopping’ signs, non-EU visitors can avail themselves of the international Global Refund service, which offers VAT refunds on certain goods upon leaving the EU. Shoppers need to ask for a ‘tax-free cheque’ when making their purchases, which is then stamped by customs upon leaving the EU. VAT on most items is levied at 17.5% and refunds are available for collection at Global Refund offices, located at major exit points. Alternatively the money can be credited to a bank account or a cheque sent to a home address.

Culture

Wales celebrates its ancient Celtic heritage at numerous Eisteddfod festivals around the country, although it is in the field of popular music that the nation has captured the worldwide imagination over recent years. Bands like Stereophonics, Catatonia, Super Furry Animals and Manic Street Preachers have achieved huge success. And more are on the way. Cardiff is the cultural capital of Wales, with top-quality venues, including the Oval Basin, an open-air auditorium next to Mermaid Quay, Cardiff Bay, which is designed for concerts and special events. Canolfan Mileniwm Cymru (Wales Millennium Centre) opened with great fanfare on the Waterfront at Cardiff Bay in November 2004 (tel: 0870 040 2000; website: www.wmc.org.uk), providing a new home for organisations such as Welsh National Opera (tel: (029) 2046 4666; website: www.wno.org.uk) and the Dance Company of Wales (tel: (029) 2046 5345; website: www.diversionsdance.co.uk).

Tickets to cultural events and performance can be purchased via the various venues, either online or by telephone. Once in Cardiff, visitors are able to purchase tickets in person from the box offices.

A good source of detailed information is available online at What’s On in Cardiff (website: www.metroplex.co.uk), which has links to many cultural venues and events taking place around the city.

Music: The male voice choir is an internationally acclaimed symbol of Welsh pride. Local exponents include the Côr Meibion Caerdydd – Cardiff Male Choir (website: www.malevoicechoir.net) and Côr Meibion De Cymru – South Wales Male Choir (website: www.south-wales-mvc.demon.co.uk). The latter is the largest male choir in Wales. St David’s Hall, The Hayes (tel: (029) 2087 8444, box office or 2087 8420, for recorded information; website: www.stdavidshallcardiff.co.uk) is the national concert hall for Wales and Cardiff’s main music venue and plays host to the biannual Cardiff Singer of the World Competition. The next event takes place in June 2005. Competitors in previous years have included world-famous figures such as baritone Bryn Terfel. The hall is also the performance home of the BBC National Orchestra and Chorus of Wales (tel: (0800) 052 1812; website: www.bbc.co.uk/wales/now). The Welsh National Opera (tel: (029) 2046 4666; website: www.wno.org.uk) now performs at the Canolfan Mileniwm Cymru (Wales Millennium Centre) on the Waterfront at Cardiff Bay (tel: 0870 040 2000; website: www.wmc.org.uk).

Theatre: The New Theatre, Park Place (tel: (029) 2087 8889; website: www.newtheatrecardiff.co.uk) was founded in 1906 and completely refurbished in the 1980s. It is now the premier venue in Wales for touring theatre and dance companies. Companies playing at the New Theatre in recent years have included the Royal National Theatre, Clwyd Theatr Cymru and the Northern Ballet Theatre. The Sherman Theatre, Senghennydd Road (tel: (029) 2064 6900; website: www.shermantheatre.co.uk) has a resident company and hosts national and international tour groups in its main and studio theatres. Maintaining the longstanding oral tradition in Wales, Academi (tel: (029) 2047 2266; website: www.academi.org) organises poetry readings and other events in Cardiff.

Dance: The new Wales Millennium Centre (see above) is also home to the contemporary dance group, Dance Company of Wales (tel: (029) 2063 5600; website: www.diversionsdance.co.uk), which commissions and premieres work from cutting-edge international choreographers, frequently touring Wales, the UK and abroad.

Film: Mainstream films can be seen at UGC, Mary Ann Street (tel: 0870 907 0739; website: www.ugccinemas.co.uk), Ster Century Cinema, Millennium Plaza (tel: 0870 7672676) and at the Capitol Odeon, Station Terrace (tel: 0870 5050007), as well as at the multiplex cinemas at UCI, Atlantic Wharf, Cardiff Bay (tel: 0870 603 4567; website: www.uci.co.uk) and Showcase, Nantgarw, north of the city (tel: 0871 220 1000; website: www.showcasecinemas.co.uk). The Chapter Arts Centre (tel: (02920) 304400) screens independent and alternative films at its Market Road centre in Canton. Bollywood productions are a speciality of the Galaxy Globe, Roath.

Films set in Cardiff range from the 1959 classic, Tiger Bay, directed by J Lee Thompson and starring Hayley and John Mills, to Human Traffic (1999), Justin Kerrigan’s portrayal of one wild weekend in Cardiff.

Literary Notes: The most famous writers from Cardiff are probably Roald Dahl, born in Llandaff in 1916, whose autobiography Boy (1984) touches upon his early years in the city, and Ken Follett, the best-selling writer of thrillers and historical novels, who was also born in the city. Dannie Abse was also born in Cardiff, as the title of his autobiography, There Was a Young Man from Cardiff (1991), suggests. Novels set in Cardiff city include River Out of Eden (1951) by Jack Jones, Glass Shot (1991) by Duncan Bush and Cardiff Dead (2000) by John Williams. The late R S Thomas, one of Wales’ greatest poets, was born in the city, although his later poems and were generally centred elsewhere. The poets Peter Finch, who penned Useful (1997) and Food (2001) and Gwyneth Lewis, author of Zero Gravity (1998), both hail from Cardiff.

Nightlife

For its size, Cardiff offers a vast range of nightlife options. The city’s club scene is innovative and constantly changing, with a wide choice of venues. There is a huge choice of bars, café-bars and restaurants – traditional, ‘trendy’ or both at once. All the action happens in the city centre and at Cardiff Bay. Bohemian-style Mill Lane, otherwise known as the ‘Café Quarter’, offers a good choice of eating options and bars. Gay venues are generally to be found in Charles Street and elsewhere on the city centre’s southern fringe. Wednesday night is busy, when the university crowds descend on the town for student nights at various venues. Fridays and Saturdays are the traditional evenings for painting the town red. Several bars and clubs, however, are making a concerted effort to liven things up during the rest of the week, with cheap drinks, late licences, live theatre, band nights and poetry sessions.

Pubs and bars are normally licensed for the sale of alcohol Monday to Saturday 1100-2300 and Sunday 1200-2230, although many venues in the city centre are licensed until 0100 or later at weekends. Nightclubs remain open until at least 0200 and many close as late (or early) as 0600, depending on the venue and day of the week. Casinos usually close between 0300 and 0400. All casinos and some bars and clubs may refuse admission to those under 18 years old, which is the legal drinking age. Some venues do not admit anyone under 21 years. The price of a drink very much depends on the venue. In the pubs, a pint of beer can start as low as £1.50, although averages between £2 and £3. In the trendier bars and clubs, prices are often higher.

A good source of detailed information is available online at What’s On in Cardiff (website: www.metroplex.co.uk), which has links to most clubs, cinemas and other entertainment options.

Bars: It is said that ‘there are more Brains in Cardiff’ than elsewhere and The Old Arcade, 14 Church Street, an old-fashioned pub serving food and the locally-made Brain’s beer, is a good place to test this theory. A wide choice of traditional beers and food is also available close by at the Owain Glyndwr, also in Church Street, opposite St John’s Church. The Angel Tavern, in the Angel Hotel, Castle Street, also offers typical pub delights. In the bay area, The Wharf, 121 Schooner Way, Atlantic Wharf, has good views across the water and cheap food, while live music can be found at The Packet, Bute Street. The Pen & Wig, 1 Park Grove, has a good range of food and beer and a myriad of board games for rainy afternoons. For a livelier evening, try Zync, 63 St Mary Street, in the Café Quarter. This place is a bar/club crossover, with live band events and a late licence until 0200 on Fridays. Also on St Mary Street at number 41 is Soda Bar, a chic watering hole open Thursday to Saturday only. One of the most popular and trendy bars in the centre, Bar Essential, 35 Windsor Place, is the choice of the city’s young professionals and visiting businesspeople. The Slug and Lettuce, 2-3 Working Street, is also popular. The Model Inn, 14-15 Quay Street, is a lively restaurant-bar.

Casinos: Les Croupiers, 32 St Mary Street (website: www.les-croupiers.co.uk) offers roulette, blackjack, mah-jong and other gaming pursuits. Dress code is smart-casual, the minimum age for entry is 18 years and a passport or other form of identification is required. Also centrally located are Grosvenor Casino and Ladbroke Club Casino on Greyfriars Road and Park Place respectively. Both are for members only.

Clubs: Clwb Ifor Bach, 11 Womanby Street, is considered one of the ‘coolest’ clubs in Cardiff. It is situated over three floors and is one of the few clubs to offer action throughout the week. It showcases an eclectic mix of live music and DJs. The Wednesday three-tier menu of acid jazz, 70s funk, Britpop and indie music is hugely popular. Other mainstream venues include Liquid, Imperial Gate, St Mary Street, and Zeus, Greyfriars Road. The Emporium, 8-10 High Street, is an exclusive, elegant venue, hosting a variety of nights from chart classics and 70s disco to classic soul and old-school funk, with visiting big-name DJs. Cardiff’s biggest gay/mixed venue is Club X, 42 Charles Street.

Housed in the cavernous UCI building on Atlantic Wharf, Cardiff Bay, Evolution is the biggest club in Cardiff and offers a menu of mainstream house, dance and party anthems. A shuttle bus collects partygoers from the New Theatre in the city, every 15 minutes from 2115. Wednesday night is student night, with house and party anthems. Fridays are for over-18s and Saturdays are for the over-20s. Only those in smart clubbing dress will be admitted.

Comedy: The Glee Club (website: www.glee.co.uk) opened in 2001, at Bute Place on Cardiff Bay’s Mermaid Quay. It stages live acts on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Comedy acts can also be seen at The Wharf, Schooner Way.

Live Music: Live music is easy to find in many bars around the city – Cardiff has an extremely active music scene. Entry is often free and where admission is charged it is rarely expensive. Café Jazz, in the Sandringham Hotel, St Mary Street, is home to the Welsh Jazz Society and hosts top local performers as well as international acts. In addition to Clwb Ifor Bach (see Clubs), live acts can be found at the Cardiff Coal Exchange and at The Point (website: www.thepointcardiffbay.com), both at Mount Stuart Square, Cardiff Bay; the Toucan Club, 95-97 St Mary’s Street (website: www.toucanclub.co.uk), for Latin American and salsa; and the University Student’s Union, in Cathays Parks – many events are restricted to NUS card-holders only. For really big acts, Cardiff International Arena, Mary Ann Street, and occasionally the Millennium Stadium, Westgate Street, are the prime venues.

City Statistics

Location: Southeast Wales (Cymru), United Kingdom.
Country dialling code: 44.
Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 4.5°C (40°F).
Average July temp: 16°C (61°F).
Average rainfall: 1,065mm (41.9 inches).

Special Events

Worthington Cup Final, association football, early Mar, Millennium Stadium
International Festival of Musical Theatre, Apr, various venues (website: www.cardiffmusicals.com)
Rugby League Challenge Cup Final, late Apr, Millennium Stadium
FA Cup Final, association football, May, Millennium Stadium
Cardiff Singer of the World, late Jun, St David’s Hall (website: www.bbc.co.uk/cardiffsinger)
Cardiff Summer Festival, various arts performances, Jul-Aug, city centre venues (website: www.cardiff-festival.com)
Welsh Promenade Concerts, classical music, mid Jul, St David’s Hall
Lesbian and Gay Mardi Gras, Sep, one of the biggest of its kind in the UK (website: www.cardiffmardigras.co.uk)
International Festival of Musical Theatre, Oct-Nov 2004, various venues
International Film Festival of Wales, late Nov, Chapter Arts Centre and UCI (website: www.cardiffscreenfestival.co.uk)
Calennig Christmas and New Year Celebrations, Dec-Jan, various venues in the city centre

The Royal National Eisteddfod (website: www.eisteddfod.org.uk), the largest annual festival of competitive music making and poetry writing in Europe, takes place alternately in North and South Wales in early August each year.

Cost of Living

1 British Pound Sterling (£1) = US$1.75; C$2.04; A$2.30; ¬1.47
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005