World City Guide

Cannes’ moment of glory takes place in May, with the International Film Festival, when images of the stars descending the red-carpeted steps of the Palais des Festivals are flashed on television screens worldwide. For many, this city on France’s Côte d’Azur is synonymous with the glamour of this event. Often overlooked, however, is the fact that Cannes is France’s second most important city – after Paris – for business tourism. The chameleon city takes on an identity to suit the temper of each major congress, festival or season. MIDEM, the conference for the music business, takes place in January and turns Cannes into a city of young, fun, music professionals. March brings a sober, suited crowd for MIPIM – the international real-estate market – and October, a conservative crowd for the Tax Free World Exhibition.

Tourists jostle with conference-goers, outnumbering business travellers only in the summer months. Their interests lie in the long, curvaceous, sandy beaches of La Croisette, its expanding Old Port, which welcomes luxury cruise boats, its palatial hotels, the designer shops lining the famous promenade and the luminosity and gastronomy of the Côte d’Azur.

The Cannois enjoy the financial rewards that tourism and business travellers bring, losing patience only at the height of the film festival, when the population triples in size. Young women benefit fully from the shops, although they may seek out bargain buys instead of designer brands. Appearances (le paraître) are important in this city of stars and latest purchases are flaunted in the trendy bars and bistros.

This modern city, branded by critics as superficial, grew up from a small fishing town on the south coast of France. In the 11th century, Cannes was owned by monks, whose budget, fattened by wealthy pilgrims, allowed them to expand beyond their monastery to the nearby Island of St Honorat. They built a square tower on the top of the hill, as a lookout post for Saracen pirates. It still stands, next to the Castre Museum, in the heart of Le Suquet, Cannes’ Old Town that was built on the site of a Roman military camp. The fishing tradition lives on and fish caught at the Vieux Port – to the west of the Palais des Festivals – are brought daily by the fishermen to the covered Forville Market, where they are sold by their wives, who rarely fit the city’s glamorous image.

Today, tourism has largely replaced spirituality on the Cannes mainland, although the monks still pray five hours a day on their tiny island. It was Lord Brougham, former British Chancellor of the Exchequer, whose visit to Cannes in 1834 established the city’s reputation as a health resort among the British aristocracy. The trend spread to the French establishment and the arrival of the railway increased Cannes’ accessibility. Soon the international aristocracy was playing golf and sunning themselves in the most coveted part of the Côte d’Azur, favoured for its hot and dry Mediterranean climate. This internationally famous city of Cannes is really little more than a grandiose village that can easily be covered by foot, although the stars of the film festival may opt for a limousine.

Getting There By Air

Nice-Côte d’Azur International Airport (NCE)
Tel: (08) 2042 3333
Website: www.nice.aeroport.fr

The airport is situated 24km (15 miles) southeast from Cannes. France’s leading airport after Paris, it has direct flights to the main cities of France and Europe, and to North America, Africa and the Near East. There are hourly flights to Paris.

Major airlines: France’s national airline is Air France (tel: (08) 2082 0820; website: www.airfrance.com). Other carriers include British Airways, Lufthansa, Saudi Arabian Airlines and Singapore Airlines.

Airport facilities: Services include duty-free shops and boutiques, a pharmacy, restaurants, a self-service cafeteria, a bar, bureaux de change and ATMs. Ada, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt provide car hire services. Disabled services are available (tel: (04) 9321 4515). A free shuttle bus (navette), between terminals one and two and the car parks, departs every eight minutes during peak times, otherwise every 15 minutes. The airport organises a personalised welcome for VIP visitors on request.

Business facilities: The airport business centre (tel: (04) 9321 3073; fax: (04) 9321 3181), located in terminal one, provides fully equipped meeting areas, with a capacity for 250 people, as well as smaller offices – one with Internet access.

Transport to the city: Rapide Côte d’ Azur (tel: (04) 9339 1139) operate buses to Cannes, daily 0900-2200 (journey time – 45 minutes) every 30 minutes, costing ¬76. Taxis to the centre (journey time – 30 minutes) cost around FFr390 and are provided by Allo Taxis Niçois (tel: (04) 9313 7878). Fixed-price ‘taxi cheques’ are available for purchase at the transport bureau, located near the information desk (tel: (04) 9321 3083). The journey takes at least an extra 15 minutes during the International Film Festival. Seven-minute helicopter flights, operated by Heli Air Monaco (tel: (04) 9321 3495) and Nice Helicopteres (tel: (04) 9321 3432), operate from Nice to Palm Beach, departing twice hourly from 0820-1720. A single trip costs FFr400 and a return costs FFr780 (including shuttle to the town centre).

Cannes-Mandelieu Airport (CEQ)
Tel: (04) 9390 4070. Fax: (04) 9390 4015.
Website: www.cannes.aeroport.fr or www.azurhelico.com

Situated eight kilometres (five miles) from Cannes’ centre (journey time – ten minutes), Cannes-Mandelieu is France’s leading private aviation airport.

Major airlines: Aeroplanes are available for hire from Chrokee Aer Odyssey (tel: (04) 9440 8426; e-mail: airodic@club-internet.fr), Euro Jet France (tel: (04) 9390 4160; e-mail: info@eurojetfrance.com) and Rath Aviation (tel: (04) 9393 1338). There is also a helicopter for hire from Heli Inter Riviera (tel: (04) 9390 4170).

Airport facilities: These include reception rooms, hotel-booking, limousine and helicopter services. Car hire is available from Hertz and Europcar. Boat hire is also available with New Boat (tel: (04) 9393 1234).

Business facilities: There is a VIP lounge available at the airport, as well as meeting rooms and catering services.

Transport to the city: Allo Taxi (tel: (04) 9299 2727; fax: (04) 9399 9077) are available at the airport. A trip into the city centre costs approximately ¬28, which must be paid in cash (journey time – approximately 10 minutes).

Approximate flight times to Cannes: From London is 2 hours; from New York is 7 hours; from Los Angeles is 13 hours; from Toronto is 10 hours and from Sydney is 25 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Getting There By Water

The Cannes Chamber of Commerce (tel: (04) 9200 4355) is responsible for overseeing Gare Maritime du Port de Cannes (tel: (04) 9298 7000; fax: (04) 9298 7001; e-mail: port.cannes@cote-azur.cci.fr), the port of Cannes, located close to the Palais des Festivals and La Croisette. Cannes is a major port for cruise liners, with 800 moorings per annum. The port is open daily between 15 and 30 June, 0800-1900, and between1 July and 15 September, 0800-2000. Outside these months, the port is open Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800. Tariffs vary according to the size of the boat. At present, the port is not suitable for boats larger than 65m (21ft), however, work is underway in the Vieux Port to construct a quay where luxury cruise liners of up to 152m (500ft) will be able to moor. The planned date of completion is early 2001. Located as it is in the heart of central Cannes, restaurants, cafés and other facilities are widely available. The Riviera Ports website (www.riviera-ports.com) provides information on all the Côte d’ Azur ports.

Ferry services: Trans Côte d’ Azur (tel: (04) 9298 7130; website: www.trans-cote-azur.com) operates a daily service between Cannes and the Lérins Islands, Saint Tropez, Monaco and Nice. Compagnie Esterel Chanteclair (tel: (04) 9339 1182; website: www.ilsedelerins.com) operates a service to Lérins Islands, Monaco, Saint Tropez and the Corniche d’Or.

Transport to the city: The port is located in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the Rapide-Côte d’Azur (tel: (04) 9339 1139) but and coach depot, which serves many destinations including Grasse, Nice and Saint-Raphael.

Getting There By Road

Motorways bear the prefix ‘A’, national roads ‘N’ and minor roads are classed as ‘D’ roads. Traffic drives on the right and drivers must give way to the right, unless the route is marked with Passage Protégé signs – a broad arrow, a yellow diamond or an ‘X’ on a triangular background – or the driver is at a roundabout indicating vous n’avez pas la priorité. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways, 110kph (68mph) on dual carriageways separated by a central reservation, 90kph (46mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Visitors who have held a driving licence for less than two years face tighter speed restrictions. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences such as speeding. The legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05% and random breath tests for drinking and driving are common.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. All front- and rear-seat passengers must wear seatbelts and children under ten years may not travel in the front seat. A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times or the driver may be fined. All headlamp beams must be adjusted for right-side driving, by use of beam deflectors or by tilting the headlamp bulb-holder. EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover in France. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy.

The Regional Motorway Network (tel: (04) 9178 7878) provides information on traffic conditions and driving regulations.

Emergency breakdown service (toll free):
Inter-Mutuelles Assistance (0800) 757 575.
Free emergency telephones are situated every one kilometre (0.6 miles) along the motorways.

Routes to the city: The Côte d’Azur is linked to the European network of motorways. The A8 Estérel motorway links Paris to Cannes. From Nice, Exit 42 (Cannes Est) leads to Cannes.

Approximate driving times to the city: From Paris – 8 hours; from Nice – 30 minutes.

Coach services: The Gare Routière de Nice (tel: (04) 9385 9260) is Nice’s international coach station, located at Promenade du Paillon. Agence Intercars-Eurolines (tel: (04) 9380 0870; fax: (04) 9380 4220) and Agence Phoceens Cars, 2 place Masséna, Nice (tel: (04) 9385 6661; fax: (04) 0313 8201), both provide regular services to major European centres.

There are two domestic coach stations (gares routières) in Cannes. The main one, at place Cornut-Gentille (tel: (04) 9339 1871), serves coastal destinations, while the other, located at place de l’Hôtel de Ville, provides an inland service. Companies operating from both stations include Rapides Côte d’Azur (tel: (04) 9339 1139), which links Cannes to Nice (city centre and airport), and CTM (tel: (04) 9390 9292), which links Cannes to Grasse and Mandelieu.

Getting There By Rail

Societé Nationale de Chemins de Fer – SNCF (tel: (08) 9235 3535; website: www.sncf.fr) is the national rail carrier. Cannes Ville station (tel: (08) 9235 3535) is situated at place Pierre Semard and place Jean-Jaurès. Facilities at the station include a newsagent, bakery, tourist infromation office (tel: (04) 9339 2453) bar, snack bar and car park.

Rail services: Cannes is served by the international trains, Trains Bleus (the Paris–Nice–Ventimiglia Express), TEE (the Trans-Europe Express) and TGV (high-speed trains). There are direct links to Paris, twice daily in winter and four times daily in summer (journey time – 7 hours), as well as to Basel (journey time – 10 hours 30 minutes), Brussels (journey time – 6 hours 30 minutes), Milan (journey time – 5 hours), Rome (journey time – 9 hours 50 minutes) and Venice (journey time – 9 hours 50 minutes).

Transport to the city: The station is just a five-minute walk from Cannes city centre, with the rue d’ Antibes leading onto La Croisette. A Rapide-Côte d’Azur bus stop is located at the station. Taxis are also available.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Buses are the only form of public transport available in Cannes and a number of companies provide transit services. These include STU de Cannes Bus Azur (tel: (04) 9345 2008; fax: (04) 9306 6716), Bus Azur (tel: (04) 9339 1871), CTM Cannes La Bocca (tel: (04) 9390 9292) and Beltrame (tel: (04) 93496090). The Handibus service is for the disabled.

Buses stop at the two coach stations, at place de l’Hôtel de Ville and place Cornut-Gentille. Other stops include the port, railway station and town hall. The network includes the nearby towns of La Bocca, Le Cannet and Mandelieu–La Napoule. Buses run every 15 minutes, 0545-2045.

Single tickets can be purchased on the bus and cost ¬1.25. A carnet of ten tickets costs ¬8.30 and a week pass costs ¬9.20 – these can be purchased at the coach station or on the bus.

Taxis
Taxis are centrally run, reliable and arrive within about five minutes anywhere in the city centre. Drivers are generally honest and will usually discuss the stars they have chauffeured. Taxis can be hailed at taxi stations or ordered by telephone from Taxis de Cannes (tel: (04) 9299 2727). There is a ¬2.35 pick-up charge and the standard rate is ¬1.71 per kilometre. Passengers pay ¬0.59 for each item of luggage and ¬1.09 for animals or children’s buggies. The fourth passenger pays ¬1.18. Tipping is not expected but is appreciated.

Limousines
A limousine service is provided by Guard Limousine, Portes de l’Aréna, Hall C 455 Promenades des Anglais (tel: (08) 0180 1164; website: www.starlimousine.fr). Vehicles – with a capacity for six passengers – are available for a minimum of four hours, at a cost of ¬200 per hour.

Driving in the City
Driving in Cannes is rarely a frustrating experience. Traffic jams are few and far between, there are several car parks surrounding the city centre and orientation is relatively easy – the rue d’Antibes is one of the few one-way streets. Since the recent improvements at boulevard Carnot, which leads from the Croisiere to the entrance to the motorway, access to and from the city has improved. There is only one major pedestrianised street – the rue Meynadier. The only times that tourists should beware of driving in Cannes, is during the film festival, when roads are blocked from 1800 onwards, and during major congresses.

The main car parks cost around ¬2 per hour and include Uniparc, place Vauban, place du Marché Forville, Palais des Festivals, Pantiero Esplanade and Hotel Gray d’Albion.

Car Hire
Operators include Ada, 91 boulevard Carnot (tel: (04) 9338 3893; fax: (04) 9338 1711; website: www.ada.fr), Avis, 69 La Croisette (tel: (04) 9394 1586; fax: (04) 9343 9226; website: www.avis.fr), Budget, 160 rue d’Antibes (tel: (04) 9399 4404; fax: (04) 9298 6762; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz France, 147 rue d’Antibes (tel: (04) 9399 0420; fax: (04) 9339 1114; website: www.hertz.fr). The minimum age for hiring a car is 21 years, although drivers may have to be 25 years old to hire the more expensive models. Driving licenses and credit cards are required. Prices vary but visitors should expect to pay ¬40-¬265 for a week’s hire, depending on the model required. Insurance is usually included but it is advisable to check.

Bicycle Hire
Some suggestions for two-wheeled transport are Alliance Location, 19 rue des Frères Pradignac (tel: (04) 9399 9030; e-mail: alliance.location@wanadoo.fr), Cycles Daniel, 2 rue du Pont Romain (tel: (04) 9399 9030), and Location Mistra, 4 rue Georges Clémenceau (tel: (04) 9399 2525). Hire costs around ¬20 for 24 hours and ¬50 for five days, depending on the model.

Boat Hire
For those without their own yacht, a substitute may be hired from Camper & Nicholsons, Port Canto (tel: (04) 9343 1675; fax: (04) 9394 1348), International Yacht Charter, Jardin du Grand Hôtel (tel: (04) 9299 3993), or Mediterranée Plaisance, 20 quai St Pierre (tel: (04) 9339 5460; fax: (04) 9368 6313). Cannes Station Voile (tel: (04) 9218 8888; e-mail: centrenautique@wanadoo.fr), Folly Ttoo (tel: (04) 9343 4880), La clé de sol (tel: (04) 9347 0435;) and Au Fil de L’eau (tel: (04) 9342 0845) all hire out a variety of boats. Prices vary depending on the type of boat hired – visitors can expect to pay around ¬30 per hour for a catamaran or ¬17 per hour for a dinghy.

Business

Business Profile
Cannes is France’s second most important destination, after Paris, for business travellers. In terms of attendance, the city is second worldwide, after Hong Kong, for congresses. Cannes’ economy relies almost entirely on the combined revenue of business and leisure tourism, which reaches approximately two billion francs per annum. The only other significant industry is the space industry. With the exception of the headquarters of the space industry branch of Alcatel, the small town of Cannes does not host major international companies. These are instead based nearby at Csophia Antipolis, Europe’s ‘Silicone Valley’, located between Cannes and Antibes and includes the high profile top French Schools (Grande Ecoles), Air France and the Nice Academy.

The surrounding department’s level of unemployment – fixed at 10.4% for the Alpes-Maritime in the first quarter of 2002 – is slightly in excess of the national level at 9% but nonetheless offers the lowest level in the Provence-Cotes d’Azur region, which stands at 12.04%. The region as a whole shows a year-on-year decrease in unemployment levels (a decrease of 5.24%, March 2001).

The key business venue is, of course, the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès – within easy walking distance of the major hotels – which welcomes the major international markets. The exhibition area, the 24,000 sq metres (258,000 sq ft) Espace Riviera, is situated on a triangular site to the south of the Palais des Festivals, overlooking the sea. The building comprises a rotunda – suited for gala dinners, cocktails and shows – and a large exhibition hall. With this new development in place, Cannes has ensured its standing as one of the three largest conference and exhibition centres in Europe. The whole town is geared towards receiving business visitors, with restaurants, 19th-century villas, yachts and even beaches adapted for corporate entertainment.

Business Etiquette
Business in Cannes is quite a formal affair. It is customary to address colleagues by their surname, although locals used to the international business community are not offended, only slightly embarrassed, if addressed by their first name. Business cards are vital and even leisurely southern France expects colleagues to arrive promptly. Due to (sometimes) good-natured rivalry, praise of the capital – unless one’s colleague is from Paris – should be avoided. However, it usually pays to praise the benefits of the Côte d’Azur. Business attire tends to be smart and chic – light suits are a must for the hot summer months. Standard business hours are 0830-1200 and 1430-1800. Lunch meetings are common. Socialising after work does not take place all that often or readily in the Cannes business community.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The long, shop-studded stretch of La Croisette is Cannes’ central attraction, with 12km (7.5 miles) of beach. During the International Film Festival, stars and millionaires, who pose (friment) in restaurants and along the expensive private beaches of La Croisette, become a major attraction. La Croisette is best viewed from the highest point of Cannes’ Old Town, Le Suquet, where the remains of the fortified tower still stand, along with the 12th-century Chapel of St Anne. Le Suquet is a lovely place for tourists to stroll, with its winding streets, small boutiques and restaurants.

At the end of La Croisette is the Palais des Festivals, whose endless Allées des Stars is imprinted with handprints and signatures of the famous. Just beyond, is the atmospheric Vieux Port, with its odd medley of luxury boats and tiny fishing vessels, its rows of palm trees and fragrant flower market of the Allées de la Liberté. Further west, along the seafront, are the free beaches, where the locals gather, along the Plages du Midi.

Tourist Information
Cannes Tourist Office
Palais des Festivals, La Croisette
Tel: (04) 9339 2453. Fax: (04) 9299 8423.
E-mail: tourisme@semec.com
Website: www.cannes-on-line.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000 (summer); Mon-Sat 0900-1800 (winter).

Other branches are located in the SNCF Rail Station and at 1 avenue Pierre Sémard, Cannes-La Bocca.

Passes
The Carte Musée or French Riviera Museum Pass (tel: (04) 9703 8220) allows free access to 62 of the Riviera’s museums, monuments and gardens including the Musée-Chapelle Bellini, Musée de la Castre, La Malmaison and Musée de la Mer. A three-day pass costs ¬15 and a seven-day pass costs ¬25. The card is available at participating museums, monuments and gardens, tourist offices, selected branches of Thomas Cook (Nice and Cannes) and FNAC department stores.

Key Attractions

Musée de la Castre (Castre Musuem)
The Castre Museum, on the hilltop of Le Suquet, is housed in the former chateau of the monks of the Lérins Isles and the 12th-century chapel of St Anne. Nineteenth-century paintings by local artists depict images of Cannes under rosy skies, with palm trees, fishing boats and ladies in voluminous skirts. There is also a fascinating collection of 200 musical instruments, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern antiquities and an ethnology display. Guided tours in English are available on request.

Le Suquet
Tel: (04) 9338 5526. Fax: (04) 9338 8150.
Transport: Buses to Hôtel de Ville or main bus station.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1300 and 1400-1800 (Apr-May and Sep); Tues-Sun 1000-1300 and 1500-1900 (Jun-Aug); Tues-Sun 1000-1300 and 1400-1700 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: ¬3; concessions available.

Ile Ste Marguerite (St Marguerite Island)
It only takes a 15-minute boat ride from Cannes to get there but it took The Man in the Iron Mask 11 years to leave this tiny, forested island. The mysterious individual was believed to be of noble blood, however, his identity has never been proven. His cell can be visited in the Fort of St Marguerite, now renamed the Musée de la Mer (Museum of the Sea). This museum also houses archaeological discoveries from shipwrecks off the coast of the island, including Roman (first century BC) and Saracen (tenth century AD) ceramics.There is a regular boat service from the mainland. Operators include Estérel Chanteclair (tel: (04) 9339 1182), Horizon 4 (tel: (04) 9298 7136), Maritime Cannoise (tel: (04) 9338 6633) and Trans Côte D’Azur (tel: (04) 9298 7130). Guided tours in English are available in summer.

Musée de la Mer
Ile Ste Marguerite
Tel/Fax: (04) 9343 1817
Website: www.cannes-on-line.com
Transport: Boat from the Gare Maritime port (¬9 return).
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1030-1315 and 1415-1615 (Oct-Mar); Tues-Sun 1030-1315 and 1415-1745 (Apr-Sep); Tues-Sun 1030-1315 and 1415-1830 (Jul-Sep).
Admission: ¬3; concessions available.

Ile St Honorat (St Honorat Island)
Cistercian monks are the only inhabitants of the smaller, southern St Honorat Island. Monks have inhabited the island more or less continuously since AD410 and, at the height of their powers, owned Cannes, Mougins and Vallauris. Medieval vestiges remain in the stark church, which is open to the public, and in the ruins of the 11th-century monastery on the sea’s edge. The monks divide their time between prayer and producing red and white wines La Vendange des Moines, Lérina liqueur, honey, lavender oil and recently launched and very successful Marc Blanc. In summer, when tourist numbers increase, the monks retire to their cloistered monastery, the Abbey of Lérins. Although closed to the general public, the monastery welcomes guests for weeklong retreats. The Cistercian monks who inhabit St Honorat run the only boat trips to the island. Boats depart from Cannes’ main port, at the Jetée Edouard.

Ile St Honorat
Tel (04) 9299 5400 or 9298 7138 (boat trips).
Fax: (04) 9299 5400.
Website: www.abbayedelerins.com
Transport: Boat trip to the island.
Opening hours: Boats run daily 0800-1700 (winter); daily 0800-1800 (summer).
Admission: ¬8.

Further Distractions

The Villas of Cannes
Nineteenth-century Cannes can still be seen in its grand villas, built to reflect the wealth and social standing of their owners and inspired by anything from medieval castles to Roman villas. Lord Brougham’s Italianate Villa Eléonore Louise – one of the first great villas in Cannes – was built between 1835 and 1839. Also known as the Quartier des Anglais, this is the oldest residential area in Cannes and perfect for a stroll. Another famous landmark is the beautiful Villa Fiésole – known today as the Villa Domergue – designed by Jean-Gabriel Domergue in the style of Fiesole, near Florence. The villas are not open to the public, however, Villa Domergue may be visited on appointment only.

Villa Eléonore Louise
24 avenue du Dr Picaud
Transport: Bus to Cannes La Bocca or the 2 Méridien stop.

Villa Fiésole/Villa Domergue
Avenue Fiésole in the Quartier de la Californie
Tel: (04) 9399 0404 (Direction des Affaires Culturelles de las Ville de Cannes).
Transport: Direction ‘l’observatoire’.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Guided two-hour walking tours depart every Wednesday at 1430 from the Tourist Information Office, Palais des Festivals, Esplanade Georges Pompidou (tel: (04) 9339 2453). These cost ¬7 (free for children under the age of 12 years) and take in the Old Town (Suquet), the old port, rue d’Antibes and La Croisette. The most rewarding nature trails are to be found on the Lérins Islands. In the summer season, the Office National des Forêts (ONF) offers guided tours to the Ile Ste Marguerite. Outside of these times, visitors can follow the signposted botanical trail.

Train Tours
Les petit trains de la Croisette et du Suquet (tel: (06) 1409 4939) depart regularly from the Tourist Office, Palais des Festivals. The Le Suquet (Old Town) tour costs ¬6 (¬3 children under ten years) and the La Croisette tour costs ¬5 (¬2.5 children under ten years). Both trips last 30-40 minutes and include a multi-lingual commentary.

Self-drive Tours
Clearly sign-posted information points along the Route Napoléon recount the progress of Napoleon, after his escape from the Isle of Elba. The Action Nationale des Elus pour la Route Napoléon (tel: (04) 9340 1233; fax: (04) 9340 1233) provides further information.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Grasse: The world capital of the perfume industry for over three centuries, Grasse is situated just 16km (ten miles) from Cannes. Four of its 300 perfume factories and the Musée International de la Parfumerie, 8 place du Cours, are open to the public. August brings the Fête du Jasmin, with a carnival atmosphere and floats of flowers. Other attractions include the fascinating Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence, 2 rue Mirabeau, Amiral de Grasse Museum and the 12th-century cathedral, which contains three Rubens. Rapide-Côte d’Azur buses to Grasse depart from the Cannes train station. The Grasse Tourist Office, Cours Honoré-Cresp (tel: (04) 9336 6666; fax: (04) 9336 8636), provides further information.

For a Whole Day

Nice: 32km (20 miles) east along the coast, Nice is a museum Mecca. The Musée Matisse, 164 avenue des Arènes de Cimiez (tel: (04) 9381 0808) displays a rich collection of paintings and sculptures in the artist’s former home. The Musée National Message Biblique, avenue du Dr Ménard (tel: (04) 9353 8720) houses the enormous dreamscapes of Marc Chagall. Proud portraits of Napoleon and Josephine, religious art and Flemish and Germanic sculpture are displayed in the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, 65 rue de France (tel: (04) 9388 0622), located in the lush turn-of-the-century Palais Masséna. The prestigious Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain (MAMAC), Promenade des Arts (tel: (04) 9362 6162) displays French and American works from the 1960s to the present day. The New Museum of Asian Arts has just opened at 405 promenade des Anglais (tel: (04) 9229 3700).

There are direct SNCF trains and Rapide-Côte d’Azur buses to Nice, departing from Cannes train station. Nice Tourism, 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel: (08) 9270 7407; fax: (08) 9214 4803; e-mail: info@nicetourism.com; website: www.nicetourism.com) is open Monday-Saturday 0800-2000, Sunday 0900-1800 (June-September) and Monday-Saturday 0900-1800 (October-May).

Sport

French tennis was born in Cannes (the ‘town of a hundred courts’) in 1879, when Sir Thomas Robinson Woolfield built the first court. The modern city has over 16 clubs with 130 courts – the oldest among them, the Tennis Club de Cannes, has welcomed both George V of Sweden and Rita Hayworth. Golf in the city dates back to the original Cannes Golf Club, set up by the exiled brother of Alexander III Tsar of Russia, in the 19th century. Watersports, including windsurfing, water-skiing, scuba diving and pedalos, are widely enjoyed. Sailing takes place at the Vieux Port (Quai St Pierre) and the marinas on the eastern side of Cannes.

The International Festival of Games, which takes place in February, features backgammon, bridge, belote, draughts, chess, role-playing, tarot-reading and crossword puzzles. The Cannes International Show Jumping Competition takes place in June. In September, the International Yachting Festival, one of the leading boat shows in France, is held at the Pantiero Esplanade. During the Royal Regattas, later in the month, fleets of yachts come to Cannes for a week of races.

Boules: Association Boulistes Kiosque, Allée de la Liberté (tel: (04) 9299 2814) is Cannes’ oldest boules club.

Fitness centres: All of the Cannes’ ‘Palaces’ luxury accommodation and four-star hotels are equipped with fitness centres. Aero Gym Wohl’s sports centre for women only, 15 rue Georges Clemenceau (tel: (04) 9338 0670), entitles visitors to participate in all the group courses (including stretching, aerobics and aqua aerobics in the sea) as well as access to sauna, jacuzzi and fitness rooms. Men can pump their muscles at the men-only Fitness Centre, 10 boulevard du Moulin (tel: (04) 9399 6616). The huge, mixed gym, Top Fit, is located close to the motorway exit for Antibes (tel: (04) 9374 4444).

Golf: The best greens on the Riviera are within easy reach of Cannes. These include Cannes-Mandelieu, Route du Golf in Mandelieu (tel: (04) 9297 3200), and Cannes Mougins Golf Country Club, 175 Route d’Antibes in Mougins (tel: (04) 9375 7913). Membership is not required and visitors should expect to pay ¬90 for a day’s golfing.

Swimming: In addition to the hotel pools and the beaches, visitors can swim at Piscine Coubertin, avenue Pierre Poési (tel: (04) 9347 1294) for ¬1.45.

Tennis: A few of the many courts in Cannes are Tennis Club de Cannes, 11 rue Lacour (tel: (04) 9343 5885), Gallia Lucien Barrière Tennis, 8 boulevard Strasbourg (tel: (04) 9399 2320), and Tennis Municipal de la Bastide, 220 avenue Francis Tonner in La Bastide Rouge (tel: (04) 9347 2933). All charge hourly rates.

Shopping

The shops in Cannes are concentrated between La Croisette and rue d’Antibes – a distance easily covered on foot. Shopkeepers who have signed a ‘Cannes Prestige’ charter will reimburse VAT, accept payment in the most commonly used currencies (at the exchange rate published in the Nice Matin newspaper, plus a maximum of 5%) and have at least one assistant who speaks fluent English.

A wide array of international designer shops line La Croisette, including Chanel, Dior and Gucci. A new Jean-Paul Gaultier opened May 2002, in the Gray d’Albion arcade. Rue d’Antibes has the best confiseries, chocolatiers and delicatessens, including Chez Bruno, 51 rue d’Antibes (crystallised fruit and marrons glacé), and Maiffret, 31 rue d’Antibes (chocolates made on the premises). Rue Meynadier is a bustling street, with a market atmosphere and bargain prices. The best cheese in town is sold at Ceneri, 22 rue Meynadier. Cannolive, 16 rue Vénizelos, is good for small gifts, while film festival posters are sold at Ciné-Folie, 14 rue des Frères Pradignac. La Vendange des Moines wines and Lérins liqueurs are a boat trip away on Ile St Honorat, or are sold at La Cave Forville, 3 Forville Market.

At Marché Forville (Forville Market), situated between the town hall and the railway tracks, locally grown flowers, fruit and vegetables are available. The fish on sale are from the day’s catch. Nearby is the colourful flower market, Allées de la Liberté. Forville Market is open daily (except Monday) 0700-1300.

Standard shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 1000-1200 and 1430-1930. In high season, many shops do not close for lunch. Sales tax varies between 5.5% (food) to 20% (luxury goods). Visitors from outside the European Union can claim a refund upon departure for each purchase over ¬175.

Culture

The main cultural event is the International Film Festival, which was first planned for 1939, cancelled because of the outbreak of war and then rescheduled for 1946. The festival gradually grew in size and importance, with the participation in the 1950s and 60s of Cocteau, Bardot, Truffaut and Goddard and the addition of the International Film Market, International Critics’ Week and Directors’ Fortnight. By the 1970s, the festival had become big business, as important for networking as for awarding the prizes, including the prestigious Palme d’Or, and increasingly presenting mainstream Hollywood films. Roman Polanski picked up the coveted prize in 2002, for his directorial return for The Pianist, a holocaust tale of a Polish pianist who escapes a Nazi death camp with the aid of a German officer.

For ticket reservation contact Palais des Festivals (tel: (04) 9298 6277 or SEMEC (tel: (04) 9339 0101) for reduced prices for groups. Tickets for general cultural performance and events in Cannes are available at the venue, online (website: www.cannes.fr) or from FNAC, 83 rue d’Antibes (tel: (04) 9706 2950). The monthly French-only publication, Le Mois a Cannes, available from the Cannes Tourist Office, provides cultural listings. Listings are also available online (website: www.cannes.fr).

Music: During the Musical Nights of Le Suquet, international orchestras perform in the Palais des Festivals, Esplanade Georges Pompidou, and chamber orchestras play on the steps of Notre Dame de l’Espérance in Le Suquet. Leading orchestras present during the festival, such as the Cannes Provence Alpes Côte d’Azur Regional Orchestra. Others perform throughout the year, most notably during the biennial International Classical Music Festival. Other principal venues include the Théâtre Debussy, in the Palais des Festivals, and the Théâtre Palais Croisette in the Hotel Noga Hilton, 50 boulevard de la Croisette. MIDEM (International Market for Records and Music Publishing) programmes jazz, classical and contemporary concerts in January.

Theatre: During the International Actors’ Performance Festival, small venues are used to stage humorous sketches, which can be enjoyed over a drink. Productions are often performed in the Espace Miramar, on the corner of La Croisette and rue Pasteur (tel: (04) 9343 8626) and the smaller theatre Alexandre III, 19 boulevard Alexandre III (tel: (04) 9394 3344). Actors training at the prestigious theatre school, ERAC (Cannes’ Regional Actors’ School), put on regular productions.

Dance: The Ecole Supérieure de Danse de Cannes Rosella Hightower, 5 rue de Colmar (tel: (04) 9306 7979; fax: (04) 9306 7978), prepares seven- to 18-year-olds for their Baccalauréat and a career in international ballet. In addition to regular performances, the biennial International Dance Festival, presided over by Rosella Hightower herself, comprises a mix of neo-classical, contemporary, minimalist and postmodern dance.

Film: Since the International Film Festival (website: www.festival-cannes.fr) is reserved for professionals only, the Cannes Festival Forum, in May, organises meetings and screenings for film fans. Young critics are targeted at numerous writing workshops during Cannes’ Cinematographic Meeting, in December. In Festival Panorama, ten feature films that have won awards in various international festivals compete. Films made in Cannes and the Riviera include Truth or Dare/In Bed with Madonna (1991) and the Cary Grant and Grace Kelly classic, To Catch a Thief (1955).

Cinemas in the city include Arcades, 77 rue Félix Faure (tel: (04) 9339 0098 or (08) 3668 0039), Olympia, 16 rue de la Pompe (tel: (04) 9339 1393 or (08) 3668 0029), and Studio 13, 23 avenue du Dr Picaud (tel: (04) 9306 2990). Salle Raimu, avenue de la Borde (tel: (04) 9347 2116), shows original versions of art films.

Cultural events: Other than the International Film Festival, in May, an event that attracts the crème de la crème of the film fraternity, Cannes has a smattering of annual events, particularly over the summer season, which features the International Fireworks Festival, in July, a competition that draws 1.5 million spectators. The Musical Nights of Le Suquet takes place in mid-July in Le Suquet. The winter season includes the unfailingly good International Dance Festival in December.

Literary Notes
F Scott Fitzgerald is the most famous writer to glamorise the Riviera. The literary fruits of his frequent visits between 1924-29 created a myth of 1920s excess, best exemplified in his novels The Great Gatsby (1925) and Tender is the Night (1934), in which he wrote: ‘Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo – began to glow through their camouflage, whispering of old kings come to dine or die, of rajahs tossing Buddha’s eyes to English ballerinas, of Russian princes turning the weeks into Baltic twilights in the lost caviar days.’

Nightlife

The focus of nightlife, as elsewhere on the Côte d’Azur, is the casino. The streets buzz at night, particularly around La Croisette, along la rue du Dr Monod and la rue Saint Antoine in Le Suquet, except for the rare occasions when it rains. Many restaurants double up as bars and clubs, as the night draws on. On the whole, the Cannois like to dress up to go out. But visitors will feel at ease in anything from jeans to eveningwear, depending on the venue. Restaurant-bars serve drinks until about 0200, casinos remain open until about 0400 and discos and nightclubs until 0400 or 0500. Many bars have a happy hour 1800-1900. The legal drinking age in France is 16 years. While the standard price for a drink is aorund ¬3, prices tend to rise dramatically during high tourist season and key festivals.

Entertainment listings and information is available online (website: www.cannes.fr) and in Le Mois a Cannes, a monthly listings magazine published in French, available at the Cannes Tourist Office. However, for all its excitement, Cannes is a small town and long-term residents and revellers are often tempted to make the trip to Nice.

Bars: The popular Loft bar, 13 rue du Dr Monod, above a Chinese restaurant, is ideal for a relaxing drink. Another cosy little bar is Les Coulisses, 29 rue Commandant André, which plays black American music. Why Not?, 8 rue des Freres Pradignac, just a stone’s throw from La Croisette, can be relied upon for playing the latest pop tunes to a lively crowd. Le Légend Café, 9 rue d’Oran, plays chilled music in the early evening, before progressing to techno from 2300 onwards. Morrison’s, 10 rue Teisseire, with its entire décor imported from Ireland, acts as a magnet to Cannes’ youthful foreign crowd. There are plenty of reasons to join them – not least the wide choice of beer and drinks. Le Zanzibar, rue Félix Faure, is Cannes’ oldest gay bar. For romantic nights, head for seaside La Fregate, boulevard Jean Hibert, to watch the sun slowly rise – this restaurant-bar is open 24-hours.

Casinos: The Carlton Casino Club is located on the seventh floor of the smart Hotel Carlton, 58 La Croisette. The Casino Croisette Club is situated inside the Palais des Festivals. Gaming at both venues is restricted to those over 18 years and French law requires the presentation of an identity card (EU nationals) or passport at all casinos. Casual dress is accepted for the slot machines, however, formal attire is required to gain access to the gambling rooms.

Clubs: Le Cat Corner, 22 rue Macé, is one of the trendiest and most happening clubs in Cannes. Jane’s Club, Hotel Gray d’Albion, 38 rue de Serbes, has themed evenings on Fridays and disco nights on Sundays. Le Jimmy’s, at the Casino Croisette, has a bar, a thumping dancefloor and a large terrace for an older crowd. Gays and straights converge at Disco 7, 7 rue Rouguiere, known for its techno music, transvestite show and party atmosphere.

Live music: Within the palatial hotels on La Croisette, there are many piano bars, such as Le Bar des Célébrités, Hotel Carlton, 58 La Croisette, and the wonderful L’Amiral, Hotel Martinez, 73, La Croisette. Or you could try Brumel’s Piano Bar, 3 boulevard de la République, as an alternative. Irish pubs are particularly good for live music, including Morrison’s, 10 rue Teisseire. Salsa and Latino groups play at restaurant-bar El Caliente, 84 boulevard del la Croisette, also excellent for Cuban cocktails and spicy meals.

City Statistics

Location: Côte d’Azur, France.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 69,800 (city).
Ethnic mix: Majority French, minorities include Italian, Spanish and other Mediterranean communities.
Religion: Catholic majority, significant Protestant and Jewish communities.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 11.5°C (53°F).
Average July temp: 23.5°C (74°F).
Annual rainfall: 857mm (33.8 inches).

Special Events

MIDEM (International Market for Records and Musical Publishing), 19-23 Jan 2003, Palais des Festivals
*MILIA (International Market of Illustrated Books and New Media), 3-7 Feb, Palais des Festivals
*MIPIM (International Professional Real Estate Market), 4-7 Mar, Palais des Festivals
*MIPTV (International TV Programme Festival), 24-28 Mar, Palais des Festivals
*International Film Festival, 14-25 May, Palais des Festivals
International Actors’ Performance Festival, Jun, Palais des Festivals and various venues
*Cannes Lions, International Advertising Festival, Jun, Palais des Festivals
Antique Dealers Exhibition in Cannes, Jul, La Pantiéro
Musical nights of Le Suquet, Jul, Notre Dame de l’Espérance Church, Le Suquet
Summer in Cannes, street festival, Jul-Aug, throughout the city
International Fireworks Festival, Jul-Aug, Bay of Cannes
International Festival of Pleasure Boating, mid-Sep, Vieux Port
*MIPCOM (International Market for TV, Video, Cable and Satellite Programmes), early Oct, Palais des Festivals
*Tax Free World Exhibition, late Oct, Palais des Festivals
*MAPIC (International Professional Market for Retail Outlets and Distribution), late Nov, Palais des Festivals
International Dance Festival, early Dec, Palais des Festival
Cinematographic Meeting, Dec, various cinemas around the city
Antique Dealers in Cannes, Dec-Jan, Palm Beach

* these events are strictly for trade only

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.55
30cl bottle of beer: ¬0.80
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.25
36-exposure colour film: ¬6
City-centre bus ticket: ¬13
Adult football ticket: ¬13
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬10-35

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005