World City Guide

The poet, Carl Sandburg, called Chicago the ‘City of Big Shoulders’. The city needs them, because it hoists a world - a world of ethnic and religious diversity, world-class educational institutions and shopping, plus commerce and industry enveloped within incomparable architecture. Most cities pale in comparison to this urban enclave whose stunning skyline erupts from the western shores of Lake Michigan.

Chicago got its most famous nickname in 1893, when, after growing exasperated with the long-winded boastings of the city’s politicians, Charles Dana, editor of the New York Sun, dubbed it ‘the Windy City.’ The civic pride was not misplaced. Chicago had changed from a mere village of 350 people in 1830, to the growing nation’s ‘Second City’ (to New York), capable of hosting the 1893 World’s Columbia Exposition, which attracted 26 million visitors during its six-month run. The Exposition was the culmination of a phoenix-like recovery from the great fire of 1871.

Because of its strategic location, Chicago became a hub for roads, canals, railways and aeroplanes. Indeed, this transport web made Chicago famous. In the 1920s, during the Prohibition, gangsters like Al Capone and police adversaries like Eliot Ness made it infamous.

The Windy City has always prided itself on being a centre for varied culture. All year round, there are festivals, exhibitions, parades and full programmes of theatre, dance, art and all types of music, including a world-class symphony. The famous Art Institute is home to an impressive collection of French Impressionists, as well as American artist Grant Wood’s classic work, American Gothic. Works by René Magritte and Andy Warhol can be found at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Ernest Hemingway was born in the near west suburb of Oak Park, which he described ungenerously as full of ‘wide lawns and narrow minds.’

Famous architects such as Louis Sullivan, Mies van der Rohe and Frank Lloyd Wright, as well as the Prairie School of Architecture, thrived here. Fittingly, with architecture being perhaps the ultimate combination of industry and art, the world’s first steel-framed skyscraper, the Reliance Building (now the Hotel Burnham) was built here.

The modern city focuses on the area known as the Loop, where the raised metropolitan railway (known as the ‘El’ or ‘L’) circles the central Downtown business and shopping district. The city stretches north, south, and west, the east side being the lake. Chicago is one of the most culturally diverse cities both in the USA and in the world. Over 50 languages are spoken here. One can easily gauge the city’s multitude of cultures just by checking the its list of annual ethnic parades and festivals.
Today, the city’s economy no longer relies upon the heavy industries of steel production or meatpacking. Instead, it leans toward communications, information technology and financial institutions as well as research and development both in commerce and in its academic faculties.
For instance, the Chicago Board of Trade, although founded in 1848 to trade in futures, commodities and options, is still one of the world’s major centres for such business.

Hard-working Chicagoans love sports, both as participants and fans. Many can be seen playing along the lakeshores. In fact, this energy and the lake combine well to represent Chicago in a way quite similar to how the original American Indians thought of it. They named it ‘Checaugou’, after the River Checaugou (Chicago River), which flowed into Lake Michigan. The word translates as ‘strong’ or ‘great’ and modern-day Chicago certainly lives up to this heritage.

Chicago is a city of contrasts: raging winters and seductive summers, crowded highways and tranquil parks, famous people and friendly folks. It might be called the 'Second City', but its spectrum is second to none.

Getting There By Air

O’Hare International Airport (ORD)
Tel: (800) 832 6352 or (773) 686 2200.
Website: www.ohare.com

O’Hare is the major international airport for Chicago, being only 27km (17 miles) northwest of the Downtown area. The world’s busiest airport carries over 69 million passengers per year.

Major airlines: O’Hare is the headquarters of United Airlines (tel: (800) 241 6522), which flies mainly from terminal one. Most major international carriers use Terminal Five, but Air Canada uses Terminal Two, and for departures only Lufthansa uses Terminal One, and Air Jamaica and Iberia use Terminal Three. Other airlines utilising O’Hare include: Aer Lingus, AeroMexico, Air France, Air India, Alitalia, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, Aviasco, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, British Midland, Continental, Delta, El Al, Japan Airlines, KLM, Korean Airlines, Kuwait Airways, Lot Polish Airlines, Mexicana, Northwest Airlines, Pakistan International, Royal Jordanian, Ryanair, SAS, Spirit, TACA, TWA, Turkish Airlines USA 3000 and US Airways.

Airport facilities: Permanent bureau de change facilities and ATMs are available in all terminals and the latter take most international cards. Also located in each terminal are a variety of restaurants, bars, fast food outlets and shops, as well as car hire from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: Laptop Lane (tel: (773) 894 3100; website: www.laptoplane.com ), located in Terminal One, offers workstations for travellers. The Hilton Business Center (tel: (773) 601 1743), located in the Hilton Hotel in Terminal Two, offers full business services.

Transport to the city: The Chicago Transport Authority – CTA (tel: (888) YOUR CTA (968 7282); website: www.transitchicago.com ) and RTA (tel: (312) 836 7000; website: www.rta.com ) are the major hubs of public transportation to and from the airport. Blue Line trains are the quickest and cheapest way into central Chicago. The service operates 24 hours, leaves every 10 minutes and costs US$1.50 (journey time – 45 minutes). 'TRAINS TO CITY' signs will guide you to the station. If you are travelling with anything more than light luggage, note that the walk from the flight terminals to the trains is a long one.

Continental Airport Express (tel: (312) 454 7800 or (888) 284 3826; website: www.airportexpress.com ) operates a shuttle minibus service 0600-2330 to central Chicago, and to the northern suburban locations US$21.00 per person or US$16 each for two people sharing the coach (journey time – 45 minutes). Omega (tel: (773) 483 6634; website: www.omegashuttle.com ) offers an hourly service 0700-2345, between O’Hare and Midway Airports (US$15), and also departs from Hyde Park (near the University of Chicago) from 0500 (journey time – 45 minutes). Taxis are available for US$25-35 per person and for Share-a-Ride, sharing a cab with a stranger, the fare would be one-half. Expect to tip the driver about 10-15%.

Midway Airport (MDW)
Tel: (773) 838 0600.
Website: www.chicago-mdw.com or www.ohare.com (click on ‘Midway’).

This airport, 18km (11 miles) southwest of Downtown Chicago, is used by domestic and discount airlines and carries around 13 million passengers per year.

Major airlines: These include: Access Air, Air Tran, American Trans Air, America West, American Airlines, Chicago Express, ComAir, Continental, Delta, Frontier, National, NorthWest, Ozark, SouthWest, US Airways and Vanguard.

Airport facilities: ATMs, cafés, bars, newspaper stands and car hire from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty.

Business facilities: There is no business centre.
Transport to the city: The CTA (tel: (888) YOUR CTA (968 7282) website: www.transitchicago.com ) and RTA (tel: (312) 836 7000; www.rta.com ) are the major hubs of public transportation to and from the airport. The Orange Line train goes to the city centre 0435-2320 and costs US$1.50 (journey time – 20-25 minutes). Continental Airport Express (tel: (312) 454 7800 or (888) 284 3826, website: www.airportexpress.com ) operates a shuttle minibus service 0600-2330 to central Chicago and to northern suburban locations, US$16 per person, or, for two people travelling together, the fee is US$12 each (journey time – 45 minutes). Omega (tel: (773) 483 6634; website: www.omegashuttle.com ) offers an hourly service 0700-2345, between O’Hare and Midway Airports. Taxis to the centre will cost around US$25-40, depending on the traffic, and from the South Side US$15. Share-a-Ride costs approximately half the fare (journey time – 30 minutes).

Approximate flight times to Chicago: From London is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 2 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 1 hour 45 minutes and from Sydney is 13 hours 30 minutes.

Arrival/departure tax: All airport taxes are included in the cost of the ticket.

Various: up-to-date arrival and departure information for both Chicago airports can be found on www.flychicago.com

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Chicago is as much the centre of the US road network as it is that for rail and air routes. The general rule for numbering on freeways and interstates is that odd numbers go north–south and even numbers go east–west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point it may seem different. Driving is on the right. The speed limits on the different motorways can vary. The general maximum is 90kph (55mph), with some spots being 110kph (70mph). Town residential areas can be as slow as 30kph (20mph), with specifically posted limits near schools. It is also illegal to pass a yellow ‘School Bus’ when its red lights are flashing. Seatbelts are obligatory for front-seat passengers. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10% and the prosecution for drink driving is severe.

The minimum driving age is 16 years. A valid driver’s licence, preferably one with a photo ID, is valid but a temporary International Driving Permit also works. Third party insurance is mandatory, although it is also highly recommended for drivers to have adequate travel medical insurance, as the cost of medical treatment in the USA is huge. Petrol (‘gas’) is four to five times cheaper than in Europe, though prices frequently fluctuate. Many ‘gas stations’ are open 24 hours a day on main roads and operate a pre-pay system at the pumps using a credit card or through a cashier.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333) can provide information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357

Routes to the city: Interstate 90 (I-90) runs due west to Seattle on the Pacific seaboard, while I-80 runs a parallel westward route, further south, to San Francisco. Its eastward stretch goes to New York. I-55 goes south to St Louis, then follows the Mississippi to New Orleans on the Gulf of Mexico. Making an arc on the west side of the city, about 16km (10 miles) from the Loop at its nearest point to the Downtown, the I-294 is a toll road. Also, south of the city centre, the I-90 becomes the ‘Chicago Skyway Toll’ road, on its route to Indianapolis. The I-94 connects with Milwaukee and Minneapolis in the north, while the I-80 takes drivers east toward Detroit.

Driving times to Chicago: From Milwaukee – 2 hours; Detroit – 6 hours; Minneapolis – 9 hours.

Coach services: The main bus station is located at 630 West Harrison Avenue (tel: (312) 408 5980), only two blocks from the CTA Blue Line’s Clinton Station. Greyhound (tel: (312) 408 5800 or (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com ) operates buses nationwide from here. Indian Trails (tel: (800) 292 3831; website: www.indiantrails.com ) operates the regional services between Chicago and Michigan destinations like Bay City, Saginaw and Flint.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (312) 558 1075 or (800) USA RAIL or 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com ) operates from Union Station, 225 South Canal Street), which is also the hub of its whole national network. The station has facilities such as bars and food outlets, ATMs, baggage porters, an enclosed waiting area, payphones, as well as short- and long-term paid parking. The commuter service, Metra Metropolitan Rail (tel: (312) 322 4269; website: www.metrarail.com ), also operates from here. Car hire is available from Budget, Enterprise and Hertz. Travellers with enquiries should either contact Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245) or the stations on the intended route.

Rail services: Trains are available from Union Station to destinations across the USA including Milwaukee (journey time – 1hour 30 minutes), Detroit (journey time – 6 hours 30 minutes), New York (journey time – 19 hours) and San Francisco (journey time – 51 hours).

Transport to the city: Union Station is only a couple of blocks from the central Loop district. Taxis are available.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Chicago Transit Authority – CTA (tel: (888) 968 7282; website: www.transitchicago.com ) operates trains and buses within the city. The trains are referred to as the ‘El’ or ‘L’ – the name is derived from the elevated rail that circles around the main Downtown business and shopping district. The seven train lines are identified and named by a different colour. CTA services run 24 hours –Overnight or Night Owl services operate between approximately 0000 and 0500.

The standard fare on the bus or train is US$1.75 (exact fare only), with a day pass costing only US$5 and offering 24-hour unlimited access. There are also passes for two days (US$9), three days (US$12) and five days (US$18). There is a transfer charge of 25 cents between routes, whether train or bus. Tickets and passes are available for purchase from machines and ticket offices at the stations, as well as from visitor information centres and directly from the CTA.

Metra (tel: (312) 322 6777, weekdays, or 836 7000, evenings and weekends; website: www.metrarail.com ) is a commuter rail system serving the suburbs and surrounding cities with 12 lines. Individual fares start at US$1.75 and a weekend pass costs US$5.

The Regional Transit Authority (RTA), (312) 836 7000 or (312) 913 3110, www.rta.com ) oversees Northern Illinois public transportation and includes, the CTA, the suburban bus line, PACE, (847) 364 7223, and Metra.

Free trolley buses (tel: (877) CHICAGO/244 2246; website: www.choosechicago.com/getaround.htm ) travel between the city’s most popular attractions.

Pedways
There is an underground system of ‘pedways’ (pedestrian walkways or ‘subways’ to the British), which are especially useful for escaping the weather and crowded Downtown streets. From this network, which links over 40 blocks of streets, there is access to many buildings, stations and shops in the Loop. Maps are available, free of charge, from hotels and around the various points of the system, including the Illinois Center.

Taxis
These are easy to hail on the streets, especially in the Loop and Wrigleyville. Pick up charge is US$1.90, it costs US$1.60 per mile thereafter, with an extra charge of US$0.50 per additional passenger. A tip of 10-15% is usually expected. The main companies are American United Cab Co (tel: (773) 248 7600), Checker Taxi Assoc. Inc. (tel: (312) 243 2537), Flash Cab Co (tel: (773) 561 1444), Jiffy Cab Co (tel: (773) 487 9000), Wolley Cab (tel: (312) 225 5411) and Yellow Cabs (tel: (312) TAXI CAB/829 4222).

Limousines
Luxury services are available from 25 companies, including American Limousine (tel: (630) 920 8888; website: www.americanlimousine.com ), Amm’s Limo (tel: (773) 792 1156), The Limo Centre (tel: (312) 829 1000), O’Hare-Midway Limousine Service (tel: (773) 693 8800 ) and Smart Cars (tel: ((312) 433 7627). Stretch limousines are always best booked in advance. Prices vary according to the size of the limousine but start from US$60 per hour.

Driving in the City
For those who are new to the city, driving is not recommended. The traffic is hectic during rush hours (0700-0930 and 1600-1900) and confusing because of the one-way street systems in Downtown areas. Local drivers are sometimes impatient with those who do not know where they are going, so it is best for visitors to get into the main areas by train, bus or taxi and continue on foot.

If driving is the only option, be aware that the city streets are largely based on a grid pattern, the central point of which is the crossroads at Madison Avenue and State Street, in the Loop district. From here, the naming of a street as ‘north’ or ‘south’ or as ‘west’ or ‘east’ is taken.

Street parking meters take coins above US$0.10 (a dime), with US$0.25 (a quarter) being the most useful coin. Major attractions may have limited parking but, in general, Downtown parking is difficult and expensive. From 1 December to 1 April, ‘Snow Parking’ regulations apply on many streets, making less spaces available, and cars parked on snow routes are likely to be towed.

Car Hire
The minimum age for hiring a car varies from 21 to 25 years. Car rental agencies charge an extra premium to drivers under 25. A valid drivers licence or an International Driving Permit is required. Costly insurance can be part of the hire arrangement, but renters should check their auto insurance to see if their policies cover rental cars.

The major US car hire companies are all available. These include Alamo (tel: (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com ), Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com ), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com ), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com ), Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com ) and National (tel: (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com ). Rates start at about $40 per day or US$165 per week.

Bicycle Hire
For visitors, cycling on the streets is discouraged, however, biking the lakefront cycling paths is quite pleasant (see Sport). Bike Chicago, at the Navy Pier (tel: (800) 915 BIKE or 2453; website: www.navypier@bikerental.com ), or at North Avenue Beach (tel: (773) 327 270; website: northbeach@bikerental.com ) has a good range of bicycles for hire. Rates vary between US$9.99 (minimum four days) to US$35 per day, including helmet, lock and map. Cycling tours are also available at Bike Chicago.

Business

Business Profile
Chicago officially became a town in 1837, with a population of 4,170. Its rapid growth can be attributed to its strategic location. The new canals of the 1840s put it on the routes from the Caribbean to New York, via the Mississippi and the Great Lakes. In the 1850s, Chicago became the central point on the railway system. This geographically powerful position as the hub of the low-cost, bulk transport network encouraged both steel mills (the first opened in 1851) and the huge trade in cattle and meat, leading to rapid industrialisation and commercial growth.

The town centre’s elevated railway, the ‘El’ or ‘L’, opened in 1897 and still demarcates the central business district. The Chicago Board of Trade – founded in 1848, for the trade of futures, commodities and options – is the oldest such centre in the world and still looked to nationally and internationally for direction. Today, business and commerce are as robust as ever, even though heavy industry has declined dramatically since the 1970s –Chicago has always been quick to keep pace with such changes.

With regard to such factors as the number of international air destinations, cost of living, diversity of workers’ skills, population, gross domestic product, Chicago is often rated in the top 10 worldwide, and it is the world headquarters to 30 of the Fortune 500 companies, including Boeing, Kraft Foods, McDonalds, Motorola, Sara Lee and Walgreen.

Despite having a relatively high unemployment rate of 8.1% (the national average is 6.1%), Chicago ranks right up there as a city that means business. The four sectors accounting for around half of Chicago’s working population are manufacturing (12%), retail trade (13.95%), finance, including insurance and real estate (13.75%), and business services (43.62%). Illinois’ top three exporters (home and abroad) are Motorola (technology), Archer Daniels Midland (food production) and Caterpillar (industrial and farm equipment manufacture). The highest foreign exports go to Canada (24%), Japan (7%) and Mexico (7%) and the highest domestic exports are to California (25%), Texas (14%) and New York State (12%).

Regardless of the changes in its commercial activities, Chicago’s founding infrastructure is consistent. It remains a transport and communications hub with United Airlines based at the O’Hare Airport and Amtrak treating Chicago as the centre of its railway operations.

Business Etiquette
Although Chicago is home to a diverse amount of industry, Midwest conservatism reigns with regard to business dress and manners. Normal business courtesies should always be observed, and the degree of formality depends on the nature of the business. A suit and tie for men, and for women a business suit (both skirts and pants are acceptable) in banking, legal and sales professions, while computer and media companies are often more casual. Short-sleeved shirts are acceptable in summer.

Chicagoans are friendly and quick to refer to colleagues by their first names, but let the person with whom you are doing business set the business tone, whether it be formal or relaxed. Business cards are commonly exchanged at meetings and e-mail is a favourite means of communication.

Punctuality for business meetings is expected – and time should always be allowed for traffic delays. Business hours are from 0800/0830 to 1700. Working late is common, and it is not unusual to work well into the night or over the weekend. Working lunches are more common than working breakfasts and may be anything from a sandwich and coffee to a more serious, although not prolonged, restaurant meal.

Often business and pleasure are combined so meeting for drinks or dinner is a popular end to the working day. As a guest, not overindulging in alcohol is always a good idea. Evening dinner invitations can be to the home or to a restaurant. Visitors should bring a bottle of wine to the home or offer to share part of the restaurant bill.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Chicago is a wonderful combination of arts, architecture and American life. A good orientation point is the Chicago Cultural Center, 78 East Washington Boulevard, which occupies an entire block and contains the Chicago Office of Tourism. Originally built as a library and completed in 1897, it provides a good introduction to the city’s architectural heritage. The building itself is grand, with the world’s largest Tiffany dome and three floors (joined by a great staircase) of beautiful rooms with displays and information.

If the weather is pleasant, visitors can take in the beach resort feel of the city. Monroe, Montrose and Burnham harbours are popular working and pleasure spots with yacht clubs and other services. While away a day at Lincoln Park, sunbathe and people-watch at Oak Street Beach, located on the north side of the town’s Gold Coast, or take your canine to romp at the ‘doggy beach,’ located between Montrose and Belmont.

To experience the ‘City of Big Shoulders’ (Carl Sandburg) skyline, take a ride on the Ferris wheel at Navy Pier, travel south down North Lake Shore Drive, or look toward the city at North Avenue Beach. One of the best ground level glimpses of the Wrigley Building and the Loop is at the Chicago River Michigan Avenue Bridge. And if you still want to see more, visit the old reliables – the Sears Tower Skydeck, and the John Hancock Observatory.

Tourist Information
Chicago Office of Tourism
Chicago Cultural Center, 78 East Washington Boulevard
Tel: (312) 744 2400 or (877) CHICAGO/244 2246 or (312) 201 8847 or (866) 710 0294, for the hard of hearing. Fax: (312) 744 2359.
Website: www.cityofchicago.org under ‘AboutTown’ or www.choosechicago.com or www.877chicago.com
Opening hours: Mon-Wed 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-1700 and Sun 1100-1700.

Another tourist information office is located at Chicago Waterworks, 163 East Pearson Street, open daily except Thanksgiving and Christmas, 0730-1900, and at Navy Pier, opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-2100, Fri-Sun 1000-2400).

The Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau offers information (tel: (877) CHICAGO or (244 2246); website: www.choosechicago.com ) information. Additional information is available from Illinois Tourism (tel: 800 2 CONNECT (800 2266 6328); website: www.enjoyillinois.com ).

Visitor information is also available at airports and Union Station.

Passes

The CityPass (website: www.citypass.com ) offers free admission to six Chicago attractions – Art Institute of Chicago, Field Museum, Museum of Science and Industry, Adler Planetarium, Shedd Aquarium and the Sears Tower Skydeck. It costs US$49, lasts for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance.

Key Attractions

Art Institute of Chicago
The bronze lions guarding the main entrance of the Art Institute of Chicago have become true symbols of the city. The Institute is packed with examples of over 5,000 years of human artistry from all over the world. Of particular interest are the collections of African, Ancient American and ‘modern’ American art from the 17th century to present, including two icons of 20th century American art: American Gothic by Grant Wood (1930) and Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks (1942). The Institute can also claim to be the French Impressionist capital of the American Midwest. Its collection includes one of only four surviving Water lily paintings by Monet, as well as work by Mary Cassatt, the only American to be included in the French Impressionist Movement.

111 South Michigan Avenue
Tel: (312) 443 3600.
Website: www.artic.edu
Transport: Adams station: bus 3, 4, 6, 14, 60, 126, 129, 145, 147 or 151.
Opening hours: Mon, Wed and Thurs 1030-1630; Tues 1030-2000; Sat and Sun 1000-1700. Admission: US$10; concessions available; free on Tues.

Grant Park
In the 1890s, Grant Park was a marshy wasteland earmarked for development, until it was saved by the wealthy Montgomery Ward and transformed by the landscaping plans of the Olmstead Brothers. Its popular landmark, the Buckingham Fountain (on Congress Parkway and Columbus Drive), is modelled after a fountain at Versailles and is a fine example of Beaux Arts landscape design. Between 1 May and 1 October, a brightly-coloured, illuminated water performance takes place from dusk until 2300. The fountain itself flows from 1000 onwards.

From East Randolph Street (north) to Roosevelt Road (south), Michigan Avenue (west) and the lakefront (east).
Tel: (312) 742 7529.
Transport: Randolph, Madison, Adams and Roosevelt stations; bus 3, 4, 6, 14, 60, 126, 129, 145, 147 or 151.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Sears Tower
Second only in height to the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, this famous 110-floor city landmark stands 443m high (1454 feet). Needless to say, the views are fantastic but so are the queues in the waiting rooms for the Skydeck on the 103rd floor. Every year, 1.5 million visitors come to take the 70-second ride in the lift (‘elevator’). Once at the top, if the weather is clear, the views reach Michigan, Wisconsin and Indiana, up to 80km (50 miles) away. The Sears Tower guides are keen to inform people that, by using different criteria – highest occupied floor (469m/1431ft), highest roof (475m/1450ft), highest antenna (567m/1730ft) – this is still the world’s tallest building. The Skydeck has recently undergone a US$4-million renovation, turning it into a multimedia experience aimed at both adults and children. Don’t miss the spiralling Calder mobile, The Universe, on the ground-floor lobby of the Wacker Drive side.

233 South Wacker Drive, entrance on Jackson Boulevard
Tel: (312) 875 9696. Fax: (312) 906 8193.
E-mail: info@theskydeck.com
Website: www.theskydeck.com
Transport: Quincy station; bus 1, 7, 60, 126, 129, 135, 136 or 151.
Opening hours: (May-Sep) Daily 1000-2200. (Oct-Apr) Daily 1000-2000.
Admission: US$11.95, concessions available.

John Hancock Center
Not quite as tall as the Sears Tower, the John Hancock Center is still very high at 344m (1127ft). It is usually less crowded and gives a more scenic view of the city’s shoreline. There is an excellent observation gallery on the 94th floor, which also has the outside Skywalk. One floor up is the Signature Room, a good spot to sip a cocktail while enjoying the sunset views to the west and the panorama of Lake Michigan to the east. Architecturally, the building is striking because of its two massive X-shaped cross-braces. It is also possible for visitors to ‘tour’ Chicago without leaving the building, by following the ‘Windows on Chicago’ virtual reality tour of 80 city sights and viewing the Chicago history wall.

875 North Michigan Avenue
Tel: (312) 751 3681 or (800) 875 VIEW or 8439.
Website: www.hancock-observatory.com
Transport: Chicago station; bus 10, 145, 146, 147 or 151.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2300.
Admission: US$9.50, concessions available.

Museum Campus
The Museum Campus is the park area south of Grant Park, where three museums/attractions (The Adler Planetarium, Field Museum and John G. Shedd Aquarium) explore the world beyond Chicago:

Adler Planetarium and Astronomy Museum
Opened in 1930, the Adler Planetarium was the Western Hemisphere’s first public museum devoted to the stars. It still maintains the traditional in-the-round Zeiss planetarium (Sky Theater) as well as the new state-of-the-art interactive Sky Rider where, with the help of armrest controls, visitors can choose how they would like to journey into space. Other interactive exhibits include 3-D computer animations of the birth of the solar system and of the Milky Way.

1300 South Lake Shore Drive
Tel: (312) 922 7827 (STAR).
Website: www.adlerplanetarium.org
Transportation: Roosevelt station; bus 12, 127, 130, 146 and the Free Trolley.
Opening hours: Late May – early Sep: Mon-Thurs 0900-1700, Fri 0900-2100, Sat-Sun 0900-2000, Early Sep – late May: Sat-Wed 0900-2000, Thurs-Fri 0900-2100.
Admission: US$5, free Tues, Star Rider and Sky theatres each US$5 additional.

Field Museum
Home to 65-million year-old ‘Sue’, the nearest to a complete Tyrannosaurus Rex that has ever been discovered, the Field Museum explores the world’s diverse environments and cultures. The entrance leads into the Dinosaur Hall, which is filled with real and replica skeletons. The ‘Africa’ exhibit experience takes visitors from the city streets into the harsh but magnificently beautiful Sahara and into the galley of a slave ship. ‘Inside Ancient Egypt’ is just that, with 23 real mummies in a recreated burial chamber. ‘Shrink’ to the size of a bug and burrow into the surface of the soil at the Underground Adventure (US$4). Weekends are most crowded.

1400 South Lake Shore Drive
Tel: (312) 922 9410.
Website: www.fieldmuseum.org
Transport: Roosevelt station; bus 12, 127, 130, 146 and the Free Trolley.
Opening hours: Weekdays 1000-1700, Sat-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission: US$8, free Wed, concessions available.

John G Shedd Aquarium
A huge variety of sea creatures dwell within the confines of the world’s largest indoor aquarium at the Shedd. Travel from the great coral reefs of the Pacific to the liquid forests of the Amazon, and visit a lot more watery destinations in-between. Watch divers feed stingrays, sharks and other denizens of the sea at the Caribbean Reef exhibit. The Shedd’s spectacular Oceanarium is home to beluga whales and the dolphin show.

1200 South Lake Shore Drive
Tel: (312) 939 2438.
Website: www.sheddnet.org
Transport: Roosevelt station; bus 12, 127, 130, 146 and the Free Trolley.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200 (summer); Mon-Fri 0900-1800 weekends (winter).
Admission: US$15 (includes Oceanarium), concessions available.

Museum of Science and Industry
Designed by Daniel Burnham for the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1892, this museum continues to charm both kids and science buffs. It is hard to visit this it without riding through the coal mine, exploring the World War II German submarine, the U-505, walking through the six metre (20-foot) human heart or trying to catch some fairy dust at Colleen Moore’s Fairy Castle. Families especially enjoy the hands-on Imagination Station and the acoustically perfect Whispering Gallery. The huge screen of the Omnimax Theater features science and space-related films.

5700 South Lake Shore Drive
Tel: (773) 684 1414.
Website: www.msichicago.org
Transport: bus 26, 6, 8 and 51
Opening hours: Late May- early Sep: daily 0900-1730, early Sep-late May: Mon-Fri 0930-1600, Sat-Sun 1730-1730.
Admission: US$9, Museum and Omnimax $US15.

Navy Pier
The 800m-long (half-mile) pier, built in 1916, was once the city’s municipal wharf and a military pier – the only pier actually completed out of several proposed under the Burnham Plan of 1906. After an extensive refurbishment, it is now one of the city’s most popular tourist meccas and recreation complexes, with over 20 hectares (50 acres) of parkland, gardens, piers, shops and restaurants. Its outdoor facilities include an amphitheatre, a 150-foot high Ferris wheel (the first one ever – not this one – was built in Chicago in 1893, for the World’s Columbia Exposition), and a carousel. Inside the complex is an IMAX film theatre, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows, Chicago Shakespeare Theatre, miniature golf and The Chicago Children’s Museum. Here, interactive, hands-on, family, children and school-orientated exhibits are designed to instruct while entertaining.

600 East Grand Avenue
Tel: (312) 595 PIER/7437 or (800) 595 PIER/7437.
Website: www.navypier.com
Transport: Bus 29, 56, 65, 66 or the Free Trolley.
Opening hours: Fri and Sat 1000-2400 (late May to early Sep); Mon-Thurs 1000-2000, Fri and Sat 1000-2400, Sun 1000-1900 (Nov-May); Mon-Thurs 1000-2100, Fri and Sat 1000-2300, Sun 1000-1900 (mid-Sep-Oct).
Admission: Free.

Ferris Wheel
Navy Pier Park
Tel: (312) 595 5200.
Opening hours: Same as Navy Pier (weather permitting).
Admission: US$5 combination with Carousel and Swing Ride US$12. Concessions available.

Carousel Navy Pier Park
Opening hours: Same as Navy Pier (weather permitting).
Admission: US$4. Concessions available.

IMAX
700 East Grand Avenue
Tel: (312) 595 0090.
Website: www.navypierimax.com
Opening hours: Show schedule varies.
Admission: US$9. Concessions available.

Chicago Children’s Museum
700 East Grand Avenue
Tel: (312) 527 1000.
Website: www.chichildrensmuseum.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2000.
Admission: US$7, free Thurs, concessions available.

Further Distractions

DuSable Museum of African American History
With the aid of artefacts, books, slave documents, civil rights memorabilia, paintings, drawings and sculpture, the Dusable Museum, the country’s oldest museum of its kind, dedicates itself to preserving and interpreting African Americans’ history and culture. Exhibits about the Underground Railroad, the Civil Rights Movement and Hale Woodruff murals, illustrating the slave ship Amistad, educate visitors about the turbulent history of African Americans.

740 East 56th Place (57th Street and South Cottage Grove Avenue)
Tel: (773) 947 0600.
Website: www.dusablemuseum.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000- 1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: US$3, Sun free, concessions available.

Lincoln Park Zoo
Begun in 1868, alongside Lake Michigan, is Lincoln Park Zoo, one of the first urban zoos in the country and noted for its Great Ape, Elephant and Lion Houses. Newer buildings tend to simulate natural habitats, and the Regenstein Small Mammal and Reptile House has a glass dome roof that serves to simulate jungle, river and forest environment. You will find cuddly koalas here too. Close by is Lincoln Park Conservatory (2200 North Stockton Drive) where you can while away your time amid orchids and lush greenery.

2200 North Cannon Street
Tel: (312) 742 2000.
Website: www.lpzoo.org
Transport: bus 11, 22, 36, 151 or 156.
Opening hours: daily 0900-1800.
Admission: Free.

Marshall Field’s
One of the earliest department stores in the world, Marshall Field’s, is to Chicago what Harrods is to London – much more than just a place to go shopping. Designed by Daniel Burnham in a neo-classical style, the State Street store opened in 1907. Its green clock at the State and Randolph entrance has become a Chicago landmark. A visit is as much an architectural experience as it is a consumer one. The building has distinct courtyards, one resembling an Italian palazzo, a striking Tiffany dome of mosaic glass, a calming fountain and gilded pillars. For lunch, try the famous Walnut Room and don’t forget to sample Frango mints, which are a Field’s specialty.

111 North State Street
Tel: (312) 781 1000.
Website: www.marshallfields.com
Transport: Randolph station.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0945-1900, Sat 1000-1800 and Sun 1100-1800.
Admission: Free.

Museum of Broadcast Communications
Hands-on exhibits, memorabilia and great moments in broadcasting, like old Jack Benny and Fibber McGee and Molly shows, are just part of what is on offer at this venue, which includes the Radio Hall of Fame. At the Comcast Center, visitors can anchor a newscast and bring home souvenir videotape as proof of their accomplishment (US$21.70 including tax).

Chicago Cultural Center, 78 East Washington Boulevard
Tel: (312) 629 6000.
Website: www.mbcnet.org
Transport: Randolph station; bus 3, 4, 6, 14, 60, 126, 129, 145, 147 or 151.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1630, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

National Vietnam Veterans’ Art Museum
Enter to the sound tinkling bells, then look toward the ceiling and see Above and Beyond, 58,000 imprinted dog tags of the men and woman who lost their lives in the Vietnam War. This gem of a museum is dedicated to collecting, preserving and displaying artwork done by Vietnam veterans, which includes the Viet Cong and the North Vietnamese as well as the allies. Artefacts and artwork give one a more intimate look and a better understanding of a most unpopular war.

1801 South Indiana Avenue
Tel: (312) 326 0270.
Website: www.nvvam.com
Transport: bus 1, 3 or 4
Opening hours: Tues-Fri: 1100-1800, Sat: 1000-1700, Sun: 1200-1700.
Admission: US$5.

The Oprah Winfrey Show
Everyone wants to see Oprah and her popular TV talk show, and it is possible to do just that in Chicago because programmes are recorded here with a live audience. Morning and afternoon dates vary and go from Jan through Jun and Sept through Nov. Tickets, available exclusively by phone at the ticket hotline: (312) 591 9222, are at a premium and must be obtained at least one month in advance. A valid photo ID is required to enter the studio.

Harpo Studios, 1058 West Washington.
Tel: (312) 591 9222.
Website: www.oprah.com
Admission: Free.

Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum
Feel the tickle of a butterfly as you walk amid hundreds of Midwest species of them in this wonderful nature museum. Exhibits help kids of all ages (as well as those who are still big kids at heart) to learn about the impact of lakes and rivers. The museum’s huge windows reveal the outdoor nature of the surrounding Lincoln Park.

2430 North Cannon Drive
Tel: (773) 755 5100
Website: www.chias.org
Transport: bus 11, 22, 36, 151 or 156
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1630, Fri-Sat 1000-1700.
Admission: $US7, free Tues.

Tours of the City

See Chicago by boat, train, coach, bicycle and antique carriages. Many excursions are slanted toward a special interest – such as architecture, neighbourhoods, and some are themed, like gangster tours. Full listings are available from hotel concierges and from the city’s website (www.cityofchicago.org or www.choosechicago.com).

Walking Tours

Chicago Architectural Foundation Tours (walking and boat)
The city is known for its architecture and there is no better way to learn about the city’s structural designs than by taking one of the many tours that the Chicago Architectural Foundation offers. Tours are on foot, by bus and on the water and include historic and modern skyscrapers and Frank Lloyd Wright homes. Except for the water tours, most begin at 224 South Michigan Avenue (tel: (312) 922 TOUR (8687); website: www.architecture.org).

Chicago Greeters
Considered a ‘themed visit’ rather than a tour, Chicago Greeters will escort small groups (up to six) to attractions, neighbourhoods, explore insider’s favourite haunts, visit specific points of interest, or even take them shopping. Greeters are residents who know and love the city. Chicago Greeters is a free service of the Chicago Office of Tourism. Advance reservations are necessary (tel: (800) 226 6632; website: www.chicagogreeter.com).

Chicago Neighborhood Tours
Explore the city’s cultural diversity on a Chicago Neighborhood Tour. Tours include ethnic neighbourhoods like Chinatown, Little Italy, Greektown, Brownsville and Devon Avenue, as well as specialty excursions like The Great Chicago Fire and the Pullman neighbourhood (the first industrial community). Schedules are sporadic and reservations are necessary. Departure is from the Chicago Cultural Center (tel: (312) 742 1190; website: www.chgocitytours.com).

Loop Tour Train
A unique way to learn about the city’s architecture is via the Loop Tour Train. The tour, aboard the CTA ‘L’ train, circles the Loop three times, while a Chicago Architecture Foundation docent explains the beauty of the façades and windows that hide amid the caverns of the city. These free Saturday tours, which operate from May – Sep, originate at the Chicago Cultural Center on a first-come, first-served basis (tel: (877) CHICAGO (244 2246); website: www.ci.chi.il.us/Tourism/ThingsToDo/LoopTourTrain).

Water Tours
One of the best ways to appreciate the beauty of the city as well as learn about it is from the water. Water excursions operate May- through early Nov, but it is best to check with the individual sightseeing company for schedules and costs. From May- Nov, tours offered by the Chicago Architectural Foundation (tel: (312) 922 TOUR (8687); website: www.architecture.org) give a pylon prospective of Chicago’s great structures, as does Chicago First Lady (tel: (847) 358.1330; website: www.cruisechicago.com). Chicago from the Lake Boat Tours (tel: (312) 527 1977; website: www.cfl81.com) also runs both history and architectural trips. Other water cruises include: Wendella boats (tel: (312) 337 1446; website: www.wendellaboats.com) which depart from below the Wrigley Building and cruise the Chicago River and Mercury (tel: (312) 332 1353 or (312) 332 1368; website: www.mercuryskylinecruiseline.com) which offers a 90-minute lake and river cruise for US$17.

Boats departing from Navy Pier run the gamut from schooners to yachts and those that include meals and cocktails. Enjoy the Odyssey (tel: (708) 990 0800; website: www.odysseycruises.com) or Spirit of Chicago (tel: (312) 836 7899; website: www.spiritcruises.com). Year-round departures. Windy I or Windy II set sail around Lake Michigan (tel: (312) 595 5555; website: www.tallshipwindy.com).

Paddle a kayak down the Chicago River with Wateriders (tel: (312) 953 WATR (9287); website: www.wateriders.com), and explore history, architecture or gangster history, or try Metro Ducks (tel: (800) 298 1506; website: www.metroducks.com), a land-and-water cruise on vintage WWII crafts. For a little romance, cruise down the river with Old World Gondoliers (tel: (312) 543 5819; website: www.4gondola.com). The gondola comes with an Italian-singing gondolier and a rose for the ladies.

Bus Tours
There are plenty of road-based options for touring the city. Gray Line Tours (tel: (312) 251 3100 or (800) 621 4152; website: www.grayline.com) runs a variety of city excursions including ‘North’ and ‘South’ side city tours, which cover all the major sights in those parts of the city. Buses leave from 55 East Monroe Street. A single, two-hour tour costs US$20, or combine both tours for US$40. Chicago Motor Coach Co (tel: (312) 666 1000; website: www.planetdata.com/doubledecker) offers 90-minute tours of the Downtown area, in double-decker buses for US$13, concessions available. The hop-on hop-off service stops at a number of points, including Navy Pier, Sears Tower, the Art Institute and Field Museum. The Chicago Double Decker Co. (tel: (773) 648 5000; website: www.chicagotrolley.com), based at the Sears Tower, offers a similar service, using London-style double-decker buses to tour 21km (13 miles) of Chicago's main sights. An all-day hop-on hop-off ticket costs US$20.

Untouchable Tours
The Untouchables Gangster Tour (tel: (773) 881 1195; website: www.gangstertour.com) takes a step back to the days of prohibition. It traces the paths of some of the city’s most infamous 1920s and 1930s residents, like Al Capone and John Dillinger. Wisecracking guides relate gangster lore on the way to famous hoodlum haunts like Little Italy and the St Valentine’s Massacre. All tours depart from 600 North Clark Street, and reservations are necessary. Cost: US$24.

Tours of Bronzeville, a particularly significant neighbourhood for Chicago’s African-American history, are conducted by Black Metropolis Convention and Tourism Council (tel: (773) 548 2579; website: www.bronzevilleonline.com).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Oak Park Neighbourhood: Two famous residents, the architect Frank Lloyd Wright and the writer Ernest Hemingway made their home 16km (10 miles) west of the Loop in the suburb of Oak Park. The Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio Foundation, 951 Chicago Avenue (tel: (708) 848 1976; website: www.wrightplus.org), was where, between 1898 and 1908, Wright developed his new approach to architecture. The foundation offers educational programmes about his Prairie School of Architecture buildings, daily tours (usually between 1100 and 1500) of Frank Lloyd Wright structures and maps to explore the area alone. Discover aspects of the author’s life and history at the Ernest Hemingway Museum (tel: (708) 848 2222 or (877) HEMINGWAY; website: www.hemingway.org). Oak Park is reached on the CTA green line or on the METRA West Line to Oak Park station. Tourist information is available from the Oak Park Visitors Bureau, 158 North Forest Avenue (tel: (708) 524 7800; website: www.visitoakpark.com) .

The North Shore: Rent a car and discover Chicagoland’s North Shore. Take the Outer Drive north and continue down Sheridan road to Evanston. Explore the scenic lakeside campus of Northwestern University, and then drive past the lighthouse to the delicately sculptured Baha’i Temple in Wilmette. Continue on Sheridan Road past the winding roads, ravines and stately homes of Kenilworth, Glencoe and Winnetka. Turn left on Lake Cook Road to the Chicago Botanic Garden (tel: (847) 835 5440; website: www.chicago-botanic.org) and stroll along the numerous lush green paths and through the lovely English and Japanese gardens. Admission is free.

For a Whole Day

St Charles: One hour west of Chicago, past rolling hillsides and open prairie, is St Charles. Situated along the Fox River, St Charles is as much about the great outdoors as it is about shopping, eating and sightseeing. For only US$5, float four miles down the Fox River on a Paddlewheel Riverboat Cruise (tel: (630) 584 2334). Alternatively, canoes and pedal boats are available at Pottawatomie Park, 8 North Avenue. Other relaxing parks (website: www.st-charlesparks.org) include the Ferson Creek Park, on Route 31, two miles north of Main Street, and Mount St Mary Park, also on Route 31, to the west of Fox River and south of Prairie Street. The Fox River Trail, a spring and summer bike and hiking trail and a winter cross-country ski trail, borders the river.

The attractive historic town is a shopper’s paradise with antique shops, boutiques, the Charlestowne Mall, 3800 East Main Street and on the first Sunday of every month and the preceding Saturday afternoon, the Kane Flea Market, Kane County Fairgrounds, Randall Road and Route 64, with over 1,000 dealers, all hoping to catch the eye and wallet of every visitor. The Town House Books & Café, 105 North Second Avenue, is a wonderful place for browsing books and drinking coffee.

St Charles is one hour by road on Route 64. Contact the Convention and Visitors Bureau, Suite 100, 311 North Second Street (tel: (800) 777 4373; website: www.visitstcharles.com), for further information.

Sport

Chicago has professional teams in all the major American sports. There are two baseball teams – the Chicago Cubs (website: www.cubs.mlb.com), who play at the Wrigley Field (tel: (800) THE CUBS/843 2827), and the Chicago White Sox (tel: (312) 831 1SOX/1769); website: www.whitesox.mlb.com), who play at US Cellular Field (formerly Comisky Park). A unique Chicago baseball season (April-September) experience is a Cub game at the ivy-clad Wrigley Field, with the traditional singing of Take me out to the Ball Game during the seventh inning.

The NFL Chicago Bears (tel: (773) 976 9600; website: www.chicagobears.com), whose season runs from early September to the end of December, play at Soldier Field. The newly remodelled stadium looks quite strange from the outside, but state-of-the-art improvements have made the inside quite the place. The Chicago Fire (tel: (888) 657 3473; website: www.Chicago-fire.com) soccer team is also based there.

Basketball, with the Chicago Bulls (website: www.nba.com/bulls) playing at the United Center (1901 W Madison; tel: (312) 455 4000), is perhaps the most internationally known of the Chicago teams because of former player, Michael Jordan. The neighbourhood is not all that safe so be careful in and around the centre.

The United Center is also home to the NHL ice hockey team, the Chicago Blackhawks (tel: (312) 943 7000; website: www.chicagoblackhawks.com), while the Chicago Wolves (tel: (847) 390 0404; website: www.chicagowolves.com) the IHL ice hockey team, play at Allstate Arena, located in Rosemont near O’Hare Airport at 10550 Lunt Avenue.

The best place for purchasing tickets to sporting events, other than the venue itself, is Ticketmaster (tel: (312) 559 1212; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Biking: The Lakefront Trail has 29km (18 miles) of cycling paths, the area between Monroe Street and Wacker Drive being the most scenic. Keep in mind that walkers, joggers and in-line skaters also use these paths, so they often get very crowded during rush hours and weekends. Many of the city streets have bike lanes, but visitors should take extreme caution should they decide to use them. For biking information, contact The Chicago Park District (tel: (312) 747 2200), or the Chicagoland Bicycle Federation (tel: (312) 427 3325; website: www.chibikefed.org). To obtain a Chicago Bike Map, telephone (312) 742 2453 or email: cdotbikemaps@cityofchicago.org.

From Apr 30 to Oct 31, contact Bike Chicago at Navy Pier (tel: (800) 915 BIKE (2453) or (312) 595 9600; website: www.bikerental.com) to rent bikes or blades. Bike Chicago at Navy Pier will guide you through Lincoln Park, Grant Park and Chinatown. From mid-June through mid-Sept they offer free tours of the lakefront and the Japanese Garden (tel: 800 915 BIKE (2453) or 312 595 9600; website: www.bikechicago.com). For bike rentals at North Avenue Beach from Apr 30 to Oct 31, contact (773) 327 2706, or website: www.bikerental.com.

Fitness Centres: Though most fitness clubs are for members only (although guests are welcome when accompanied by a member), many hotels have their own facilities or associate membership arrangements with nearby gyms.

Golf: There are several nine-hole and 18-hole public golf courses scattered around the metro area. Most are operated by either the Chicago Park District (tel: (312) 245 0909; website: www.chicagoparkdistrict.com) such as Jackson Park, 63rd Street and Lakeshore Drive (tel: (312) 245 0909 or 747 2763) or The Forest Preserve District of Cook County (tel: (800) 460 0010; website: www.fpdcc.com) like Edgebrook, 5900 North Central Chicago (tel: (773) 763 8320) and Indian Boundary, 8600 Forest Preserve Drive (tel: (773) 625 9630 or (708) 366 9466). Harborside International Port & Starboard Courses, 11001 South Doty Avenue (tel: (312) 782 7837; website: www.harborsidegolf.com), has two courses. Prices vary from about US$20-76 depending on the course, the day of the week and the season.

Ice Skating: There is winter ice skating with a view at Daley Bicentennial Plaza starting (337 East Randolph St; tel: (312) 742 7648; website: www.chicagoparkdistrict.com) in Nov, depending on the weather, for US$2 and at Millennium Park, 55 North Michigan Avenue, it is free. Available skate rentals are US$2-3.

Swimming: Lake Michigan’s 31 beaches are maintained by the Chicago Park District (tel: (312) 742 2200; website: www.chicagoparkdistrict.com). The beaches are opened from Memorial Day (the last weekend in May) to Labor Day (the first weekend in September). Lifeguards are on duty 0900-2100. Many hotels have indoor pools as well as health clubs.

Tennis: The Chicago Park District (see above) also maintains outdoor tennis courts throughout the city. Most are free. Public school outdoor courts are also available after school hours. There are 12-lighted courts at the Daley Bicentennial Plaza, 337 East Randolph Street (tel: (312) 742 7648), but they must reserved at least 24 hours in advance. US$7 per hour per person. Most indoor clubs are private.

Shopping

Whatever your pleasure, be it discounts and designers, antiques, art or the kitschy, it is available in the ‘Second City.’

Find interesting architecture and a huge merchandise selection at Marshall Field’s (the original store) and Carson Pirie Scott on State Street. But no visit would be complete without a shopping trip on the Magnificent Mile (North Michigan Avenue). The street, crowded with upscale malls (Water Tower Place, 900 North Michigan Avenue, The Shops at North Bridge), fashionable boutiques and big name stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Marshall Field’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, Nieman Marcus and Nordstroms, is also a people watching paradise.

For bargains shop Filene’s Basement, 1 North State or 830 Michigan, Mark Shale Outlet, 2593 Elston, or the Gap outlet, 2778 North Milwaukee, for clothes, the Wabash Jewelers Mall for discounted baubles and Crate and Barrel Outlet, 800 North Avenue, for housewares.

The best souvenir selection is at Accent on Chicago, 875 North Michigan, or City of Chicago Store at the Chicago Waterworks Visitors Center, 163 East Pearson, and Tastes of Chicago.com, 877 90 TASTE (82783) will ship authentic Chicago food like hot dogs, pizza and Eli’s cheesecake anywhere in the USA.

Art galleries are clustered on both the Magnificent Mile and at River North. Find the latest information on art exhibits in Chicago Gallery News, available at any of the galleries.

Taylor’s Guide to Antique Shops in Illinois and Southern Wisconsin (available in bookstores, or tel: (847) 465 3314) will direct you to area antique dealers. Many are located in the Lake View, Lincoln Square, Ravenswood and Edgewater areas.

For music, visit the cool Virgin Megastore, 540 North Michigan Avenue, but find a better selection at Tower Records, 2301 Clark Street. Search the back walls of the legendary Rolling Stones, 7300 Irving Park Road, for the best deals, Jazz Record Mart, 444 North Wabash Avenue, for jazz, Reckless Records, 3157 North Broadway or 1532 North Milwaukee Avenue for alternative, new and used sounds, and Second Hand Tunes, 800 Dempster, Evanston, for used records.

Except for special sales or the holiday season, malls and regular stores hours are usually Mon – Sat 1000 – 2100 and Sun 1100 – 1800. North Side neighbourhood stores that cater to young people often open later. Chicago state and local taxes are 8.75%, aside from food (2%) and pharmaceuticals (0%).

Culture

‘Exceptional’ is the word to describe Chicago’s incredible culture scene, a scene that includes a world-class opera and symphony, plus great jazz, theatre, dance, art and architecture.

To keep abreast, pick up a copy of the free weekly, The Reader (website: www.Chireader.com) or New City (website: www.newcitychicago.com) – both distributed on Thursdays. The city’s dailies, Chicago Tribune and Chicago Sun-Times, have up-to-date cultural reviews and comments, particularly on Fridays. The best online information is at www.metromix.chicagotribune.com or the ‘Things to Do’ section of the city’s website (www.choosechicago.com).

Tickets can be purchased from individual box offices or from Ticketmaster (tel: (312) 559 1212 or at (312) 902 1500 for the arts line). At Hot Tix booths, 78 West Randolph and 163 East Pearson (Water Works Visitors Center) or Tower Record locations, 214 South Wabash and 2301 North Clark Street, half-priced tickets are available on the day of performance. Check the website www.hottix.org for daily availability listings. There is a discount for cash, but a fee of US$3-US$4 per ticket for processing.

Music: The Chicago Symphony Orchestra, 220 South Michigan Avenue (tel: (312) 294 3000; website: www.chicagosymphony.org), is internationally renowned. The symphony box office offers ‘Rush Seating’ - discounted tickets to students and senior citizens (aged 64 and over) on the day of the performance at 1200 for matinees and 1700 for evening performances. The symphony’s outdoor, summer home is Ravinia, 400 Iris Lane, Highland Park (tel: 847 266 5000; website: www.ravinia.org).

Chicago’s notable opera companies are the Lyric Opera of Chicago, 20 North Wacker Drive (tel: (312) 332 2244; website: www.lyricopera.org), and the Chicago Opera Theater, 205 East Randolph (tel: (312) 704 8414; website: www.chicagooperatheater.org), which always performs in English.

Theatre: The theatre scene pulsates with everything from regional ensembles to elaborate productions, and they can vary from classical to avant-garde. The Loop’s revived theatre district, which include the Cadillac Palace, 151 West Randolph (tel: 312 977 1700; website: www.broadwayinchicago.com) and the Oriental, 24 West Randolph (tel: 312 782 2004; website: www.broadwayinchicago.com) host booming Broadway productions, while the Goodman Theatre, 170 North Dearborn Parkway (tel: (312) 443 3800; website: www.goodmantheatre.com), and the Steppenwolf, 1650 North Halsted, (tel: 312 335 1650; website: www.steppenwolf.com) are renowned for their workings of the classics and contemporary productions. A creative approach to the bard’s works is the focus of the Chicago Shakespeare Theater at Navy Pier (tel: (312) 595 5600; website: www.chicagoshakes.com).

Besides the Loop, a multitude of theatres are scattered throughout the city, though many are located on the North Side around Halsted and Lincoln. The League of Chicago Theatres (312) 554 9800; website: www.chicagoplays.com) has a complete listing of current programmes.

Dance: The city has several talented companies that perform regularly. Its top ballet company is the Joffrey Ballet Company of Chicago (tel: (312) 902 1500; website: www.joffrey.com). A daring mix of jazz with classical ballet and contemporary techniques is a specialty of the Hubbard Street Dance Chicago (tel: (312) 970 1700; website: www.hubbardstreetdance.com). Pure jazz is performed by Gus Giordano Jazz Dance of Chicago (tel: (847) 866 6779; website: www.giordanojazzdance.com), founded in 1962 and based in the Evanston suburb. Ethnic dance troupes are an example of the city’s diversity. Trinity Irish Dance Co, 6655 North Avondale Avenue (tel: (773) 549 6135), was formed long before Michael Flatley’s Riverdance, and for traditional African rhythms and African-American style, there is Muntu Dance Theatre of Chicago (tel: (773) 602 1135; www.muntu.com).

Film: Many of the mainstream cinemas, such as the Water Tower Theater, 845 North Michigan Avenue (tel: (312) 649 5790; website: www.watertowertheatre.com), have several screens. Some cinemas, Biograph Theatre, 2433 North Lincoln Avenue (tel: (773) 348 4123; website: www.villagetheatres.com/Biograph), have historical associations. In 1934, gangster John Dillinger was shot by the FBI in front of it. Cheap, cheerful and sometimes rowdy typifies the Brew and View at the Vic cinema, 3145 North Sheffield Avenue (tel: (312) 618 8439; website: www.brewview.com), which screens late-night films, cult numbers and new releases. For a rich mix of the old and the new, there is the Music Box Theatre, 3733 North Southport Avenue (tel: (773) 871 6604; website: www.musicboxtheatre.com), a 1920s ‘movie palace’ which features independent films, foreign films, classics and silent films accompanied by a live organ. The Gene Siskel Film Center, 164 North State (312 846 2800; website: www.siskelfilmcenter.org) specialises in unusual films, classics and film festivals. Moviefone (tel: (312) 444 3456; website: www.moviefone.com) is the principal source of information and also sells tickets to some cinemas (‘movie theaters’).

Of the many films set or filmed in Chicago, some of the most famous are The Sting (1973), starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford; the classic John Belushi film, The Blues Brothers (1980); the Oscar-winning Ordinary People (1980); Risky Business (1983), the film that launched Tom Cruise; the John Candy, Steve Martin film, Planes, Trains and Automobiles (1987); Hoop Dreams, a documentary about inner-city kids becoming basketball stars (1994); the Bill Murray movie, Groundhog Day (1993) and the 1930s gangster dramas, The Untouchables (1987) and The Road to Perdition (2002) with Tom Hanks and Paul Newman.

Cultural Events: Dating back to 1935 is the Grant Park Music Festival (www.grantparkmusicfestival.com), which performs in the new Frank Gehry-designed Millennium Park Music Pavilion from June through August. Free performances range from pop, classical, music, opera and blues. The annual Summer Dance Festival, from mid-June to late August, takes place in the Spirit of Music Garden, Grant Park. The festival offers one-hour dance lessons as well as dancing to live orchestras. In October, the Chicago International Children’s Film Festival lasts two weeks and features not only the latest Hollywood offerings but also international films, animation, short films, documentaries, student films and videos. For a list of ethnic festivals throughout the city and the year, check the Mayor’s Office of Special Events (website: www.cityofchicago.org and click on ‘events’).

Literary Notes: The poet Carl Sandburg (1878-1967) was part of the heady ‘Chicago Renaissance’ in the first two decades of the 1900s. In his poem, Chicago (1916), he coined the phrase ‘City of the Big Shoulders’. Upton Sinclair (1878-1968) wrote about the horrors of the meatpacking world of Union Stockyards and the Jewish-Lithuanian ghetto in The Jungle (1903). The book was the catalyst for the changing of food laws in America.

Chicago’s most famous writers are probably Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), born in the Oak Park suburb (see Excursions), and Saul Bellow (b 1915), who was born in Quebec but raised in Chicago. Bellow has portrayed the post-modern city in many guises, including Pulitzer-Prize-winning Humboldt’s Gift (1975) and The Dean’s December (1982).

The dangerous, frenzied and unscrupulous underside of the Board of Trade was the subject of The Pit (1903), by Frank Norris (1870-1902). James T Farrell (1904-1979) was born in Chicago. His best-known work is the trilogy, Studs Lonigan (1932-1935), depicting the ethnic turmoil of the South Side slums. The clash of races in the slums was also the subject of Richard Wright’s (1908-1960) Native Son (1940). Detroit-born Nelson Algren (1909-1981), as part of the ‘Chicago School of Realism’, continued the unadorned style associated with the city’s portrayal in several of his novels, including The Man with the Golden Arm (1949), a novel about drug addiction, often regarded as his best work.

Theatre has also made its mark in this city, particularly with American Buffalo (1976), by David Mamet (b 1947), the Chicago-born playwright and film director. With Chicago’s gangster tradition, it is fitting that he also wrote the screenplay for The Untouchables (1987). It is also fitting that two writers have based their detective novels in the city. Sara Paretsky’s ‘VI Warshawski’ stories and Andrew Greeley’s ‘Monsignor Ryan’ tales feature Chicago as a major location or, one could even say, character.

Nightlife

When the sun goes down, Chicago comes alive with a variety of entertainment venues, which vary from the boisterous (dance clubs) to the serene (wine bars). The main entertainment districts are Lincoln Park, the Gold Coast, Old Town and Streeterville (north of the Loop), Greek Town (west of the Loop) and the newest hot spots - River North, Wicker Park and Bucktown. Rush Street, once the happening place, is making a comeback with its many new upscale restaurants and outdoor cafes. Most bars close around 0200 or 0300 on Friday and Saturday nights, but outdoor gardens close at 2300. Nightclubs stay open later and often have cover charges of US$3-20, weekend nights being more costly. Drinks vary from place to place, but beer averages about US$4 and cocktails about US$7. There is no dress code for bars, but there are for some clubs. The minimum drinking age is 21 years.

Check www.chicagoreader.com or www.cityofchicago.org or www.metromix.chicagotribune.com for comprehensive reviews and details.

Bars: Looking for a happening singles bar? Visit Original Mothers, 26 North Division, which was featured in the movie, About Last Night; Butch McGuire’s, 20 West Division Street; or The Lodge, across the street at 21 North Division. Also popular with twentysomethings is the laidback Bar Thirteen, 1944 West Division Street. To sip a Crocodile Hunter or a Key Lime Pie martini, twenty- and thirysomethings gravitate to the black leather couches at the hip Lithium, 1124 West Belmont.

Diehard Cub fans spend their time at sports bars near Wrigley Field - Cubby Bear Lounge, 1059 West Addison or Hi-Tops, 3551 North Sheffield. The spacious Joe’s Bar, 940 West Weed Street, is a combination live music, Thursday night karaoke and sports bar. Its many TVs and 14 different satellite feeds make it a favourite hangout for avid sports fans.

If wine bars are more to your palate, get a grape education with every glass of wine at Bin 36, 339 North Dearborn Street, or try The Tasting Room, 1415 West Randolph. This chic, two-floor bar offers sweeping skyline vistas with every libation. For those who prefer the bubbly, there is Pops for Champagne, 2934 North Sheffield, which boasts more than 140 different kinds of the stuff.

There is alternative country acts or a soul-gospel DJ at the 1940s-styled California Clipper, 1002 North California, and map mavens will enjoy the Map Room, 1949 North Hoyne Avenue, which, on Tuesday evenings, has a free buffet with a different international cuisine each week. For both sipping and scenery, nothing can compare to the spectacular views from the lounge of the Signature Room at the 95th at the John Hancock, 875 North Michigan Avenue.

Casinos: Though gambling is illegal in Chicago, there are several riverboat casinos located just outside the city: Grand Victoria Casino, Elgin, The Majestic Star Casino and Trump Casino Boat in Gary, Harrah’s East Chicago in East Chicago, Hollywood Casino in Aurora, and the Empress Casino in Joliet.

Clubs: The Dragon Room, 809 West Evergreen Street, has three floors of dancing, and the Romanesque fortress-styled Excalibur, 632 North Dearborn, is an equally popular dance setting. Salsa favourites include Rumba, 351 West Hubbard Street, Rancho Luna del Caribe, 2554 West Diversey Parkway, and 2300 Nacional 27, 325 West Huron Street after 2300. There is jazz, blues and dancing at The Cotton Club, 1710 South Michigan, which is patterned after the famous Cotton Club in New York City’s Harlem.

Comedy: John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, Bill Murray and Rick Moranis got their start at the popular Second City, 1616 North Wells Street, Old Town (website: www.secondcity.com). The city’s best stand-up comedian spot is Zanies Comedy Club, 1548 North Wells (website: www.chicago.zanies.com). Such notables as Jay Leno, Jerry Seinfeld and Jackie Mason have performed there. Teams compete for audience approval at Comedy Sports, 2851 North Halsted. Expect to pay a cover charge of US$5-20 at most comedy clubs and some also require a two-drink minimum.

Live Music: Chicago has a healthy musical tradition covering everything – jazz, rock, country, blues and piano lounges. Blue Chicago, 536 North Clark and B.L.U.E.S., 2519 North Halsted Street, are where the tourists go to hear live performers. The neighbourhood is iffy but the jazz is great at the nearly century-year-old Green Mill, 4802 North Broadway. It also hosts the Uptown Poetry Slam on Sundays. Buddy Guy’s Legends, 754 South Wabash, has also been around for quite a while. House of Blues, 329 North Dearborn, at the base of Marina City, features rhythm and blues in the evenings and a Gospel brunch every Sunday. At the Elbo Room, 2871 North Lincoln Avenue, sounds range from rock and acid jazz to funk, soul and pop. Other venues include Metro, 3730 North Clark Street, which is popular with the pierced tongue crowd, House of Blues, 329 North Dearborn, and Double Doors, 1572 North Milwaukee Avenue.

Useful booking numbers are Jazz Hotline (tel: (312) 427 3300) and the Concert Line (tel: (312) 666 6667). Tickets for rock concerts can be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (312) 559 1212).

City Statistics

Location: State of Illinois, southwest shores of Lake Michigan, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 2,896,000.
Ethnic mix: 45% white, 39% black, 12% other, 3.7% Asian, 0.3% Native American.
Religion: Predominantly Christian (many denominations), with Jewish and Muslim minorities.
Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT -5 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: - 6ºC (21ºF).
Average July temp: 22.5ºC (73ºF).
Annual rainfall: 847mm (99 inches).

Special Events

Special Events
Lights on the Magnificent Mile, Jan-Feb, Michigan Ave
Chicago Winter Delights, Jan-Feb, various venues
Chicago Flower & Garden Show, mid-Mar, Navy Pier
Windows of the Magnificent Mile, mid-Mar to mid-Apr, Michigan Ave
St Patrick’s Day Parade, Sat before St Patrick’s Day, Downtown
Farmer’s Market, May-Nov, throughout the city
Bike Chicago, May-July, throughout the city
Cinco de Mayo Parade, early May, 21st and Marshall Blvd
Annual Chicago Gospel Music Festival, early Jun, Grant Park
Annual Chicago Blues Festival, mid Jun, Grant Park
Chicago Summer Neighbourhood Festivals, May-Sept, throughout the city
Annual Venetian Night, classical music, boat parade and fireworks, Jul, Downtown lakefront
Annual Chicago Country Music Festival, late Jun, Grant Park
Annual Taste of Chicago Festival, late Jun – early Jul, Grant Park
Summer Dance Festival, mid-Jun - Aug, Spirit of Music Garden, Grant Park
Viva Chicago Latin Music Festival, mid-Aug, Grant Park
Annual Air and Water Show, mid-Aug, lakefront Chicago Jazz Festival, Aug-Sep, various venues Von Steuben German Day Parade, early Sep, Downtown
Mexican Independence Day Parade, early Sep, Downtown
Annual Celtic Fest Chicago, mid-Sep, various venues
Chicago International Children’s Film Festival, Oct, various venues
LaSalle Bank Chicago Marathon, mid-Oct
Annual Chicago International Film Festival, Oct, various locations
Columbus Day Parade, early Oct, Downtown
Halloween Happening, last half Oct, Downtown
Annual Treelighting Ceremony, Nov, Daley Plaza
Magnificent Mile Lights Festival, mid-Nov, Michigan Ave
Annual Christkindlmarket, Nov-Dec, Daley Plaza and Block 37.

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1.29
33cl bottle of beer: US$0.70
Financial Times newspaper: US$1.00
36-exposure colour film: US$6.89
City-centre bus ticket: US$1.50
Adult American Football ticket: From US$45-85
Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$20

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005