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City Guide > Indian Subcontinent > Sri Lanka > Colombo | |
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Mini Guide of Colombo City Overview Colombo is the largest city in Sri Lanka, and it is the main financial, commercial and industrial centre, although the official administrative capital is Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte just 10km (6 miles) away. Colombo is a bustling, noisy and somewhat schizophrenic city: in the downtown area, modern skyscrapers tower over snarling three-wheeled taxis; smart businessmen jostle side by side with street vendors and Buddhist monks walk silently past expensive shops begging for alms. Sri Lanka has a rich history, dating back to the fifth or sixth century BC. Buddhism was introduced in the third century BC. It is still the national religion and gives the country its unique atmosphere. The Portuguese started nearly 500 years of colonisation in 1505. They were replaced by the Dutch and later the British, who led until independence in 1947. This history and culture, the perfect white sandy beaches, year round sunshine and warm seas should make Sri Lanka a paradise for tourism. However, simmering tensions between the majority Sinhalese and the Tamil minority who are seeking independence for the Jaffna region in the north of the country, led to an explosion of violence in the 1980s. This led to two decades of fighting between government forces and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam. Industry, and especially tourism, suffered greatly following a number of attacks – notably on Colombo airport in July 2001. A peace accord was brokered by the Norwegians in December 2001, which spawned an uneasy peace that has allowed business and tourism to recover somewhat. The city of Colombo escaped largely unscathed after the Boxing Day Tsunami, but many coastal regions of the island were decimated. Except for a few more refugees in the city, the casual visitor to the city probably won’t see any sign of it. It is when you try to travel outside of Colombo that the full effect will become obvious. Transport links have been greatly affected, and some regions are effectively cut off. However, the people of Sri Lanka realise that tourism is a key to rebuilding their economy and are keen to welcome back visitors. For the latest information on the current situation in Sri Lanka, check out www.contactsrilanka.org Getting There By Air Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) Tel: (011) 2252 861. Located 32km (20 miles) from the city centre, the airport is served by more than 35 international and regional airlines including the national carrier Sri Lankan Airways (tel: (01973) 35555; website: www.srilankan.aero). Airport facilities include ATM, airport hotels, banks, bureau de change, post office, duty-free, gift shop, 24-hour restaurant, cafes, bars, tourist desk, car hire and disabled facilities. There is also a communication centre with IDD, fax facilities and a business/VIP lounge near the airport hotel, with a full business centre. There are bus and train services from the airport to the city, but the buses can be very crowded and the train is infrequent and a long walk from the airport. Share taxis can be arranged from Airport Taxi Booking Counter (tel: (011) 2252 861 ext 3174). Getting There By Water Getting There By Road Sri Lanka has an extensive network of over 90,000km (56,000 miles) of roads, although many are over 50 years old and suffer from poor or almost non-existent maintenance. Many of the cities in Sri Lanka are on the west and south coasts, and a major coastal highway links Colombo with Ambalangoda, Hikkaduwa, Galle, Weligama, Matara, Tangalla, Hambantota and Tissamaharama to the south; and Puttalam and Negombo to the north. The highway then moves inland to Anuradhapura, giving access to cities in the north – including the disputed region of Jaffna. Two other main highways head east from Colombo, linking it with the east coast and central cities like Kandy, Dambulla and Ratnapura. As both the major city and major port of the country, Colombo is well served by bus routes, which cover some 80% of the country. Intercity buses are most comfortable, and you will get your own seat. There are occasional security checks on main roads, and foreigners should carry their passport at all times. Speed limits are 56kph (35mph) in built up areas and 75kph (45mph) otherwise. The drink-driving limit is 0.08%, the same as the UK and the USA. Buses leave from the Central Bus Station (tel: (011) 2328 081). It is generally not possible to book private buses in advance, but those run by the Central Transport Board (CTB) can be (tel: (011) 2581 120). Getting There By Rail As an island, there are no external rail links to Sri Lanka, but there is a comprehensive rail network, comprising of nine lines that link Colombo with most major population and industrial centres. Main routes from Colombo include the Intercity Express (ICE) trains to Kandy and Galle. Reservations are essential on these trains and can be made the day before travel at Fort Railway Station, or through a local travel agent. Rail services are run by Sri Lanka Railways (tel: (011) 2421 281; website: www.scienceland.lk/railway/index.htm). Trains from Colombo leave from Fort Railway Station where there is also a tourist office (tel: (011) 2435 838). Getting Around Public Transport Bus journeys within Colombo can be a nightmare: a combination of the heat, frenetic driving, and crowds. The situation is even worse in the rush hour when crowds are so great that passengers often hang out of the door. Bus colours vary with the operator: Metrobus are yellow. For all buses, you can buy tickets on board from the conductor. Although buses probably do follow a schedule, you would be hard pushed to work out what it is. Taxis Taxis are cheap and far more comfortable than buses. Taxis can be flagged down or tend to hang around outside of hotels. Very few taxis have air-conditioning and meters, so you should be prepared to fix a price before you set off. Taxi companies in Colombo include GNTC (tel: (011) 2688 688), Kangaroo Cabs (tel: (011) 2588 588) and Yellow Radio Cabs (tel: (011) 2942 942). There are also a number of auto-rickshaws in the city. These noisy two-stroke three-wheelers can be flagged down anywhere. They tend to be a little cheaper than taxis but are not very comfortable and expose the passenger to all the traffic fumes. Car Hire Driving in Sri Lanka can be a fraught experience. Officially traffic drives on the left but you will often find other vehicles coming straight towards you on the wrong side of the road. Luckily, it is possible to hire a chauffeur driven car for almost as much (and in some cases much less) than a self-drive car. Ask your hotel concierge or call Kangaroo Cabs (see above). To hire a car you will need an international driving licence, or you will have to obtain a temporary licence by attending the Automobile Association office in Colombo (tel: (011) 2421 58) with your national driving licence. Avis (tel: (011) 2475 458; website: www.avis.com) has a rental office in Colombo; travel agents can also arrange car hire. Bicycle & Scooter Hire It is possible to rent motorbikes and mopeds from Goldwing (tel:(011) 2685 750). Riding bicycles is not recommended. Business Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Colombo is a lively and exciting city where part of the joy is just wandering and watching life unfold on the streets. To the north of the city is the Fort District – so named because both the Dutch and the Portuguese built forts here. This is the main commercial district where many businesses are located. Amidst the modern buildings, this area also has a distinct colonial feel, with the famous clock tower, the president's residence and a smattering of colonial-era buildings, which hark back to the days of the British Empire. Near to here is the Pettah bazaar district with a jumble of goods for sale: vegetables, meats, precious metal, jewellery, gemstones and all manner of flotsam and jetsam that makes up an Asian market. There are a number of Buddhist and Hindu temples in this area and also the Jumi-ul Alfar Jumma Mosque, which are all worth a visit. To the south of the city is Galle Face Green, a seafront where people from the city come to relax and play cricket, fly kites or just wander. More cerebral pursuits include the National Museum, which helps to put the country’s history into perspective, and the National Art Gallery. The best beaches are to the south of the city, with the closest being at Mt Lavina 10km (6 miles) away. Tourist Information Sri Lanka Tourist Board 80 Galle Road Colombo Tel: (011) 2437 759. Website: www.srilankatourism.org Key Attractions The Colombo National Museum Established in 1877, this is Colombo’s oldest museum, and has a vast collection of antiques and objects from all over the island. Wherever you are traveling to on the island, this will be a good place to get an idea of the local cultural heritage. Adjacent to the National Museum is the Natural History Museum which has a number of representations of the flora and fauna of Sri Lanka. Ananda Coomaraswamy Mawatha, Colombo 7 Tel: (011) 2694 366. Cinnamon Gardens The most exclusive area of Colombo, this is a district of large houses set on shady streets, lined with jacaranda and frangipani. Home to many of the city’s most exclusive and trendy bars, shops and restaurants. A stroll round Cinnamon Gardens is a pleasant way to spend a few hours in the city. In the middle of Cinnamon Gardens is Viharamahdevi Park, the city's largest open space. Colombo 7 Gangaramaya Temple Located on the waters of Beira Lake, adjacent to the so-called Slave Island, this Buddhist Temple dates back over 2,000 years. It is reached by crossing a wooden bridge. There is a holy bo tree under which the Lord Buddha is reputed to have preached. There are many historic Buddha images and frescoes. 61 Sri Jinarathana Road Dehiwala Zoological Gardens Colombo zoo has a wide range of flora and fauna from all over the world, as well as a large collection of animals, birds, reptiles and fish from all over Sri Lanka. It includes a walk through aviary, and aquarium and a butterfly park. There are also elephant shows – a reminder of the place of the animal in Sri Lankan society. Anagarika Dharmapala Mawatha, Dehiwala Tel: (011) 2729 790. Pettah Pettah is the main Bazaar district of the city. Situated next to the refined Fort district, it is an area of narrow cobbled streets and stalls and shops that spill out onto the streets in a riot of colour, smells and noise. Particularly good for local produce, including gold, spices, music as well as ayurvedic medicines. There is also a sprawling and colourful vegetable and fish market. Further Distractions Galle Face Green A seafront promenade and gardens that gets packed with lingering crowds and food stalls – especially at weekends. This is where the city comes to relax, and you will see kite flyers, cricket games and picnickers. Dutch House Museum This colonial mansion dates back to the 17th century. Formerly the residence of Count August Carl Van Ranzow, it has now been restored as a museum of the Dutch occupation. Focusing on the home life of the colonialists, the exhibits include furniture and ceramics, and give a good idea of the lives of the Dutch at the time. Prince Street, Pettah, Colombo 11 Tel: (011) 2448 466. Mount Lavinia A quiet sandy beach (arguably the best and most popular) only 13km (8 miles) from the heart of the city. On the beach there are little bathing huts which can be hired for the day. Focal point of Mount Lavinia is the Mount Lavinia Hotel. Tours of the City There are a number of operators offering full and half day tours of Colombo, which should show you all of the main sights. Try ASEATICA Tours & Services (Pvt) Ltd, Royal Park, 115 Lake Drive, Rajagiriya (tel: (011) 288 4433; website: www.aseatica-tours.com) or Ceylon Tours, 8A, Sir Ernest De Silva Avenue, Colombo 7 (tel: (011) 2574 589; website: www.ceylontours.com). Further afield, a tour to the Kelaniya Rajamaha Vihare, 11km (7 miles) away can also be done in half a day. At this Buddhist temple you can see the chair where the Buddha reputedly sat as he preached a sermon for peace. More of a slog is the famous Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage, where a herd of 60 elephants roam free. The sanctuary covers 25 acres of forest, but every day, baby elephants are brought through the town to bathes. The sanctuary is near Kegalle Town, 77km (48 miles) from Colombo, and can be visited in a day. Excursions Sigiriya is an important Buddhist pilgrimage site in central Sri Lanka, some 160km (100 miles) northeast of the capital. The remains of an ancient palace fortress and city are situated on a vast rock plateau that soars 180m (590ft) above the surrounding countryside. The city dates back to 477 AD and is renowned for its rock paintings and water gardens. It can be reached by rail, car or bus in around three hours. The sacred city of Kandy was the last capital of the Sinhala dynasty and dates back some 2,500 years. Set on a sacred lake it is the second city of Sri Lanka and a far more relaxing city. There are numerous ruins and temples to see here, including one which holds a tooth relic of the Lord Buddha. Kandy is 150km (93 miles) from Colombo. Sport Shopping Cinnamon Gardens is the best place for upmarket shops, but there are shopping centres all over town. For local produce, the Pettah Bazaar is the place to go. If big shopping malls are what you are after, try Crescat Boulevard, 89 Galle Road, Colombo 3, an upmarket shopping centre complete with food court, or Majestic City, Galle Road (near Bambalapitiya), a large mall, with fashion stores as well as a cinema, supermarket and many restaurants. For the finest Sri Lankan tea, head for Tea Tang (tel: (011) 244 6214; website: www.teatang.com) which have various outlets, including Liberty Plaza and Galle Face Court. For local handicrafts and gifts, Odel , 5 Alexandra Place, Lipton Circus, Colombo 7 (tel: (011) 472 2723) is a good bet. Culture Theatre and Dance: The two main venues for contemporary theatre and dance are the Lionel Wendt Art Centre, Albert Crescent, Colombo 7 (tel: (011) 2695794) and the Elphinstone Theatre, Maradana Road, Maradana, Colombo 10 (tel: (011) 243 3635). For traditional Sinhala theatre, try the Lumbini Theatre, Havelock Road, Havelock Town, Colombo 5. Cinema: Two popular cinemas in town are The Savoy Cinema, 12 Savoy Building, Colombo 6 (tel: (011) 2552877) and the Majestic Cinema, 4th Floor Majestic City, Colombo 4 (tel: (011) 2581759). Nightlife Sri Lanka is not known for its nightlife, although there are a number of trendy bars that have sprung up in the Fort and Cinnamon Gardens areas of the city. Many of the bars cater for young Sri Lankans, who tend to prefer bar-hopping to staying in one place. There is often live music on weekends. Try Bradman Bar, Cricket Club Café, 34 Queen’s Road; Frangpiani,126 Havelock Road; Glow Bar, on the third floor of the Automobile Association Building, 42A Sir Mohamed Marcan Marker Mawatha; Cheers, Colombo Plaza; White Horse, 2 Navam Mawatha; and Koluu’s Tulips, 383 Duplication Road. Most of the club life is centered on the large hotels. There is generally a dress code and parties of single men may be excluded. Aim to get there after midnight and be prepared to dance until the small hours. The following are the best options: Cascades at the Colombo Plaza Hotel, Crescat Boulevard (on the 'landside' of Galle Road); The Blue Elephant at The Colombo Hilton, Echelon Square; and The Hut at Mount Lavinia Hotel, 102, Hotel Road, Mount Lavinia. Many of the bars and nightclubs already listed have live music on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Another place to try is R&B Music Bar on Duplication Road. City Statistics Location: Colombo is located on the west coast of Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka is an island in the Indian Ocean, to the south of India. Country dialling code: + 94. Time zone: GMT + 6. Electricity: 230 volts, 50Hz; three-pin round plugs. Average January temp: 26.5°C (80°F). Average July temp: 27.5°C (81.5°F). Annual rainfall: 2,345mm (92 inches). Special Events Duruthu Perehera Festival, Jan full moon, traditional religious festival featuring hundreds of dancers and parading elephants, Kelaniya Temple Navam Perahera Festival, Feb full moon, another Perahera festival, with elephant and dancing, this time at the Gangaramaya Temple, 61 Sri Jinarathana Road Sinhala and Tamil New Year, Apr, traditional New Year celebrations featuring games and traditional foods (Marks the April holiday season in April, when the whole city seems to shut down.) Kite Flying Festival, Oct, people from all over the city flock to Galle Face Green to fly kites and compete in events Diwali/Deepavali, the Hindu festival of lights is a big celebration in Colombo. All of the temples and many homes are brightly lit up, Oct/Nov WOMAD Sri Lanka Festival of Drums, Sep 2005, workshops, theatre, club nights and a five day drumming festival mark the international WOMAD festival coming to Sri Lanka this year (website: www.womad.org/srilanka) Cost of Living 100 Sri Lankan Rupees (100 LKR) = £0.56; US$0.99; C$1.15; A$1.30; ¬0.83 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |