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City Guide > Europe > Croatia > Dubrovnik | |
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Mini Guide of Dubrovnik City Overview So smitten was Lord Byron with Dubrovnik that he eulogised the one-time city-state as the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’. George Bernard Shaw was not slow to praise this superlative inducing paradise either, proclaiming that ‘those who seek paradise on earth should seek it in Dubrovnik.’ Backed by steep limestone crags to the rear and fronted by the sublimely blue waters of the Adriatic, this perfectly preserved gem is encompassed within sturdy medieval walls, which house a cocktail of baroque churches and palaces. Dubrovnik (formerly known as the Republic of Ragusa) survived for centuries as a free city state whose motto was ‘Libertas’ (freedom), standing up both against the powerful Venetians to the north as well as the Ottomans to the south with the sort of skilful negotiation and double-dealing that Machiavelli would have been proud of. Its proud citizens boast that their thick city walls have never been breached, though the walls and the resolve of the inhabitants were tested in the winter of 1991-1992 when Serb and Montenegrin paramilitaries, backed up the Yugoslav National Army, the Navy and the Air Force laid siege to a city that had no real strategic value or Serb claim to ownership in a brutal act of cultural vandalism that helped bring Europe round to the Croatian cause. Today the only legacies of the siege are the swathe of new roof tiles, easily identified by their new shade (the original quarry closed down before the siege), and the large board that guards the entry to the old city, and marks where the shells hit. Today the crowds are back in Dubrovnik as it reclaims its crown. In high season, the city overflows with tourists and cruise ship passengers and more and more citizens from the rest of Europe are investing in property in this idyllic corner of the Adriatic. Getting There By Air Čilipi Airport (DBV) Tel: (020) 73 333. Website: www.airport-dubrovnik.hr Dubrovnik’s modern single-runway airport is located 20km (12.5 miles) and a half hour drive to the south of the city towards the Montenegrin border. There are currency exchange facilities, a business lounge, bars, a souvenir shop, telephones, ATMs, car rental offices (Budget, Hertz and Thrifty) and an information desk within the terminal building for use by both arriving and departing passengers. The airport is now a T Mobile wi-fi hotspot with credit card access available to all laptop users with wi-fi capability. Shuttle buses meet all incoming scheduled flights. Taxis are available outside arrivals. Getting There By Water A pleasant way of travelling to Dubrovnik is by sea. There are several international and coastal ferry lines with arrivals and departures to/from Dubrovnik, but the main Croatian passenger shipping line is Jadrolinija. Information on sailing times and fares is obtainable from their office in Dubrovnik, Obala S Radića 40 (tel: (020) 418 000/111; website: www.jadrolinija.hr). The Port of Dubrovnik authority (tel: (020) 418 511; website: www.portauthority.hr) can provide further information. Getting There By Road The Adriatic Highway (E65) runs to Dubrovnik from the Croatian city of Split and Bosnia to the north and from Montenegro in the south. Plans for a motorway to Split to link up with the new Split-Zagreb link are afoot, though it is unlikely to open until at least 2007. Driving in the city is a nightmare due to the pedestrianised old town, the sheer weight of tourist numbers in the high season and the one-way system. Parking is also often an ordeal. The phone number for emergency breakdown service is 987. The main bus station is located 2km (1.25 miles) to the north of the old city at Gru~. The main bus station is located at Put Republike 19 (tel: (060) 305 070). Long distance operators include Autotrans (tel: (051) 213 821; website: www.autotrans.hr) and Korčula Bus (tel: (020) 711 216) who run services north up the Croatian coast. Getting There By Rail There are no rail services to Dubrovnik. Getting Around Public Transport There are no trams, trains or metros. All of the city buses are run by Libertas, Put Republike 19 (tel: (060) 305 070; website: www.libertasdubrovnik.hr). There are a number of bus routes connecting the old city with the suburbs; route 1A and 1B are popular with tourists as they connect the harbour and bus station at Gru~ with the Pile Gate entrance to the old city. Bus 4 is also useful for those staying on Lapad as it connects Pile with the Lapad Peninsula, terminating near the Dubrovnik Palace Hotel. Taxis There is a taxi rank at the bus station and also at the Pile Gate. Taxis can be called locally on (020) 424 343, (020) 423 164, (020) 418 112 and (020) 357 044. Considering the cost of living, taxis are very expensive with even the shortest trip subject to a hefty flagfall. Dubrovnik first timers should pretend otherwise when asked if they have visited before to avoid rip offs and attempts to sell impromptu excursions. Drivers often try to opt out of using the meter which can save kuna, especially on the airport run, though be sure to firmly agree a price beforehand. Car Hire There is little point in renting a car for travelling around Dubrovnik as its most interesting district is pedestrianised and congestion and parking are problems elsewhere. Note that the permitted driving blood alcohol level in Croatia is now zero. Car rental companies at the airport include Hertz (tel: (01) 484 6777; website: www.hertz.hr), Budget (tel: (020) 773 290; website: www.budget.hr) and Thrifty (tel: (020) 773 3588; website: www.thrifty.com). Bicycle Hire Cycling is not advisable in a city whose core is ruled by pedestrians and whose roads are dominated by the car. Under no circumstances should cycling be attempted on the busy and often dangerous Adriatic Highway. Accordingly, no companies currently rent out bikes in Dubrovnik. Business Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview All of the main attractions are conveniently located in the pedestrianised old city, which in itself is the standout attraction, a perfectly preserved baroque city-state. The best way to get acquainted with the city is to head on to the solid medieval walls, which protected the Ragusan Republic over the centuries and now provide a bird’s eye view of its buildings for tourists. The main thoroughfare is the Stradun where the Franciscan Monastery is located as well as the graceful Sponza Palace, one of the few buildings to survive the devastating earthquake of 1667. Just around the corner are the Cathedral and the Rector’s Palace, once home of the nominal head of the republic, now a museum and cultural venue. Tourist Information The main tourist information centre on Ante Starciceva 7 (tel: (020) 427 591) is up the hill just to the north of the Pile Gate and an easy stroll from the old city. The often surly staff sometimes give out maps and some leaflets and can also book tickets for various cultural events. Handily there is a small Internet café housed within the office. Other smaller branches of the local tourist office can be found on Miha Pracata and next to the Jadrolinja ticket office at the ferry terminal in the suburb of Gru~ (close to the main bus station). A new arrival in 2005 was a small tourist office on the Stradun near the Franciscan Monastery. The private tourist agencies are generally more interested in booking people on one of their myriad guided tours than they are in dispensing advice or maps. Key Attractions Key Attractions City Walls These rugged stone walls loop up around the city skirting the harsh limestone crags to the north and then pass the old port before scooping back around the coast where the Adriatic laps against its voluminous bastions. It is possible to walk around in an hour, but it is better to linger and take one of the audio tours by picking up a headset at the ticket counters on the way up to the walls. The Stradun Dubrovnik’s main thoroughfare (also known as the Placa) spreads right through the pedestrianised heart of the old city. Formed when the channel that separated Ragusa from the mainland was filled in during the 12th century, today the thoroughfare bustles with tourists during the summer and boasts a wealth of cafes, bars, shops and restaurants. Franciscan Monastery This monastery complex lies just off the Stradun – make sure to come early if a cruise ship is in town to avoid the crowds. The single nave Church of St Francis is a large and cool space (a welcome escape from the crowds and heat in summer), and the Monastery Museum is worth venturing into with a range of exhibits taken from the monastery and its old fourteenth century pharmacist. Sponza Palace Look out for the ‘We are forbidden to cheat and use false measures, and when I weigh goods, God weighs me,’ motto which reveals much about one of the former role of this graceful palace on the Stradun. The 14th-century palace used to function as Ragusa’s customs house and mint, but today it is home to the State Archives and a small museum dedicated to the locals who died fighting for the city in the 1991-1992 siege. Rector’s Palace Just a short stroll off the Stradun is the former home of the city’s old rector. Unlike many despots of the time, the rector did not outgrow his boots in democratic Dubrovnik and he had a limited term in office, during which he was largely banned from leaving the palace except on official business. Today the courtyard is a venue for traditional dancing and music in summer, and the complex also houses a decent museum. Further Distractions St Blaise’s Church This 18th century baroque church is dedicated to the city’s patron saint and lies at the head of the Stradun at the point where it unfurls into Lu~a Square. Inside, St Blaise proudly cradles a model of his beloved city, revealing what Dubrovnik looked like before the devastating 17th century earthquake. Cathedral Legend has it that the original cathedral was built by Richard the Lionheart of England as a thank you for his life being spared in a violent storm off Dubrovnik. This baroque incarnation on Pred Dvorom comes complete with three aisles and a large cupola that dominates the city skyline. Tours of the City The local tourist office can organise walking tours of the old city which take in all the main sights. Tourist agency Atlas (tel: (0800) 442 222; website: www.atlas.hr) have offices in Pile, Grad and Gru~ and offer one day tours that include a bus trip to a panoramic viewing point overlooking the old city followed by a guided walking tour. They also organise evening cruises around the old city accompanied by wine and music. A flurry of small boats leave from the old port offering scenic cruises and transport across to the island of Lokrum, which lingers just across the water from the old city. Generalturist, Frana Suplia 9 (tel: (020) 432 974; website: www.generalturist.com) also offer tours. Excursions Dubrovnik makes a good base for exploring the southern Dalmatian islands, many of which are accessible on day trips. There is Mljet, a green and lush jewel, much of which is protected as a national park. It is possible to rent bikes here and circle around the network of paths and lakes, or just go for a stroll, punctuated perhaps by a swim in one of the national park’s lakes. The smaller Elaphiti Islands (Koločep, Lopud and Čipan) are also becoming increasingly popular. Atlas (tel: (0800) 442 222; website: www.atlas.hr) run day trips into neighbouring Bosnia (the city of Mostar and the pilgrimage site at Međugorje) and Montenegro (the old city of Kotor and the Adriatic coast). Sport Shopping The old city is the place for shopping, though most of it is firmly geared towards the bountiful tourist trade with prices to match. Shops generally open from around 0900 and stay open until around 1900 or 2000, through opening times tend to be erratic and are very limited in the winter months. A number of small shops hug the Stradun, but it is wise to also delve down the warren of streets that break north and south from this thoroughfare to look for a few surprises. The daily market on Gundulićeva Poljana mainly stocks fresh fruit and vegetables, but sometimes handmade lace and other unique souvenirs such as gold and silver jewellery, homemade honey and wooden handicrafts can be found here. Culture The main highlight of the cultural calendar in Dubrovnik is the 45-day Summer Festival, which sweeps through the city from mid-July to late August. Most major buildings in the old town, including the Sponza Palace and the Rector’s Palace, become festival venues with theatre, dance, classical music and visual arts all well represented. The highlight is the traditional performance of Shakespeare at the Lovrijenac fortress; even Serb shelling could not halt a very topical production of Hamlet during the siege. Things are quieter for the rest of the year, but there are regular concerts and cultural performances at the Rector’s Palace, the Church of our Saviour on the Stradun and the Martin Dr~ić Theatre by the Rector’s Palace. The local Lindo dance group are also highly regarded for their lively traditional performances. The Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra (website: www.dso.hr) has a good reputation and performs regularly at various venues. Information and tickets, if not available at the venue, can usually be obtained from the local tourist office. There is also a cinema within the old city walls just by the Sponza Palace, with Hollywood films usually being subtitled rather than dubbed (no telephone number is available and there is no booking ahead). Nightlife Dubrovnik is no London or New York and things tend to peter out quite early especially out of season. That said there are a sprinkling of bars in the old town, ranging from the Troubadour ‘Hard Jazz’ Café, Bunićeva Poljana, with its occasional live music, through to the Irish Pub, Od Polaca 5, which gets very busy in summer, especially when the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is on in late July/August. A newcomer opposite is Gaffe, a pub cum café popular with the locals just next to the Irish Pub. The Stradun is the in place to see and be seen sipping a beer or a bijela kava (café latte), with Festival Cafe perennially popular. Just around the corner from the Stradun under the dome of the cathedral is Hemingway Bar, Pred Dvorom, another stylish bar/café. Labirint, Svetog Dominika 2, in the old city is a club/restaurant complex, while just outside the Pile gate is Latino Club Fuego, Brsalje 10. On Lapad the Palace Hotel, Masarykov put 20, also boasts its own nightclub. City Statistics Location: Southern Dalmatia, Republic of Croatia. Country dialling code: 385. Time zone: GMT +1 (GMT +2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220V, 50Hz, continental two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: 7şC (44şF). Average July temp: 20şC (68şF). Annual rainfall: 1,250mm (49 inches). Special Events St Blaise’s Day, Feb 3, relics of the city’s patron saint are paraded through the old city Easter, special masses held in various churches throughout this deeply catholic city Dubrovnik Film Festival, May, annual film festival (website: www.dubrovnikiff.org) Dubrovnik Summer Festival, mid-Jul-late Aug, city’s premier festival sees a myriad of cultural events grace arts venues and temporary venues throughout the city (website: www.dubrovnik-festival.hr) Karantena Festival, Aug, a smaller version of the Edinburgh ‘Fringe’ giving more esoteric and alternative acts a forum that they do not always get at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival Independence Day, Oct 8, celebration of Croatian independence Cost of Living 1 Croatia Kuna (1 HRK) = Ł0.09; US$0.16; C$0.19; A$0.21; ¬0.13 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |