World City Guide

Dramatically situated 1.6km (one mile) above sea level on the Colorado Plains, with the Rocky Mountains soaring to 4,200m (14,000ft) in the background, Denver, known as ‘the Mile High City’, lies at the geographical centre of America, midway between Mexico and Canada. It is a major transport hub where highways and railways converge and its international airport has become a focus of worldwide trade. In-comers make up over 60% of the population, attracted by the lack of crowds, friendly people, a good lifestyle and a mild climate. With over 300 days of bright sunshine each year, Denver outshines San Diego and Miami Beach.

At the heart of Denver, the tree-lined red and grey granite, pedestrian shopping area of 16th Street is dominated by the D&F Tower, a 990m (325ft) replica of the campanile of St Mark’s in Venice. On sunny days, people sit around the fountains or at the pavement cafés, chatting and watching the street performers. At night, the buzz continues, because everything remains open late. A few miles southeast, on Speer Boulevard, serious shoppers visit Cherry Creek with more than 400 shops and boutiques, including the famous Tattered Cover Bookstore, where readers can browse all day, relaxing on sofas and drinking coffee.

However, it was not until 1953, with the construction of the first skyscrapers, that Denver started the transformation from cow town to vibrant modern city. Founded during the ‘Pikes Peak or Bust’ gold rush of 1858, Denver still maintains a mining and oil exploration industry, although this is now a much smaller part of its economy. The city’s new prosperity is a result of timely diversification into high-tech industries. Its success is evident everywhere – in new buildings, business opportunities and population growth. But nowhere more so than in the transformation of the Victorian Lower Downtown area (called ‘LoDo’ by the locals) from skid row to entertainment district, with galleries, restaurants, bars and nightclubs occupying the former derelict warehouses.

Denver is expanding at a phenomenal pace. Since 1990, the city’s population has increased by nearly 30%, making it the 20th largest metro area in the country. The Colorado Convention Center, located Downtown, is undergoing a major expansion that will double its exhibition space by 2004. This, along with new hotel development, will bring new business to the city. Denver’s commitment to the arts is no less impressive. The Denver Art Museum will also double in size, with the construction of a spectacular new wing. Meanwhile, the land at the former Stapleton Airport is undergoing redevelopment, with new housing and a 32-hectare (80-acre) urban park that will be Denver’s largest.

Originally the centre of entertainment for the roughnecks of the West, Denver’s first permanent building was a saloon. The tradition continues in the countless brewpubs and microbreweries in LoDo. However, although Denver residents may have some of the best beer in the country, they do not overindulge. Denver is the ‘thinnest’ city in America, with less than half of Colorado adults being overweight. The active lifestyle, the abundance of sunshine and the outstanding sporting and outdoor facilities must play a part.

With five big-league sports teams, football, basketball, baseball, soccer and ice hockey, Denver also can claim to be ‘Sports Town USA’. As well as the many parks, the city has two beautiful stretches of paved bike paths, along Cherry Creek and along the South Platte River. Beyond the city, Colorado’s National Forests provide miles of wilderness areas for camping, back packing and exploring, while in the Rocky Mountains there is skiing from November to June, as well as opportunities for hiking and mountain biking.

Getting There By Air

Denver International Airport (DEN)
Tel: (303) 342 2000 or 342 8477, for a hotline to update travellers on changing conditions at the airport. Fax: (303) 342 2215.
Website: www.flydenver.com

Denver International Airport is 38km (24 miles) northeast of Downtown. Covering 137 sq kilometre (53 sq miles), an area twice the size of Manhattan, the airport opened in 1995, with five full-service runways. A sixth is under construction and will be completed in 2003. It has one terminal building with three concourses and services some 36 million passengers each year, travelling on international and domestic flights. It is currently the fifth busiest airport in the US and the tenth busiest in the world.

Major airlines: Denver is an important location, with links to most American cities and major international destinations. It is a major hub for United Airlines (tel: (800) 241 6522; website: www.unitedairlines.com) and for the domestic carrier, Frontier Airlines (tel: (800) 432 1359; website: www.frontierairlines.com). Twenty other airlines, including American Airlines, Air Canada, British Airways, Continental Airlines and US Airways provide daily, non-stop service to 120 American cities and international destinations.

Approximate flight times to Denver: From London is 9 hours 55 minutes; from New York is 3 hours 55 minutes; from Los Angeles is 2 hours; from Toronto is 4 hours 44 minutes and from Sydney is 19 hours 55 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include 24-hour bureau de change, ATMs, 48 restaurants, snack bars, grills and an extensive selection of over 60 retail outlets, including food stores, book shops and brand-name outlets. Advantage, Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, Payless and Thrifty all provide car hire services.

Business facilities: The Qwest Business Centre (tel: (303) 317 0988), located on the Mezzanine level of Concourse B, offers a full range of facilities. It is open 24 hours, with an attendant on duty from Sunday to Friday 0800-1800. Use of the laptop workstations is free, dial-up charges start at US$0.50-2.95.

Arrival/departure tax: All taxes are included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: The Ground Transportation Information Counter at the airport (tel: (303) 342 4059) provides information on the wide range of transport options available from the airport. RTD’s Skyride buses (tel: (303) 299 6000; website: www.rtd-denver.com) operate from the airport to Downtown and 28 other stops in the Metro Denver area. Tickets range in price from US$6 to US$10. The service operates on an hourly basis, approximately 0400-2400 (journey time – approximately 40 minutes). A number of shuttle buses also operate from the airport to Downtown, including Supershuttle Denver (tel: (303) 370 1300 or (800) 525 3177). The fare is US$18 one way or US$32 round trip, per person. Shuttles depart every 15 minutes, daily 0400-2400. There is a separate telephone number for Supershuttle Boulder (tel: (303) 777 7777).

Many of the major hotels operate complimentary shuttle buses and taxis can be hailed outside the baggage claim area. The flat-rate taxi fare to Downtown is US$45.50. Limousines can be pre-booked from a number of companies (see Getting Around).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

America has an excellent system of Interstate Highways (I-1) and State Highways (Hwy-1), as well as smaller country roads with the letter of the state preceding the road number (eg C-1 in Colorado). For British nationals a full UK driving licence will suffice. Other foreign drivers will require an International Driving Permit and a full licence from their own country. The legal driving age is 16 years. Liability insurance is required for all drivers in Denver.

Traffic drives on the right. The speed limits in the state of Colorado are 105-120kph (65-75mph) on designated rural Interstates and Highways, 88kph (55mph) on urban Interstates and Highways, 48kph (30mph) in all residential districts and 40kph (25mph) in any business district. If a school bus has its stop sign extended or its red lights flashing, traffic in both directions must stop until the bus moves off. The wearing of seat belts by drivers and front seat passengers is compulsory. Stiff penalties exist for drivers who break the drink driving laws. In Colorado, the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.10%. It is also an offence to carry alcohol in a car unless it is unopened and in the boot.

The AAA American Automobile Association Colorado (website: www.aaacolo.com) provides reciprocal breakdown services for members of the AA and the RAC, as well as other information on driving in Colorado.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (303) 753 8800

Car hire companies will provide a number to call in the event of a breakdown.

Routes to the city: Denver is at the intersection of the I-70, running east–west from Pittsburgh to St George, and the I-25, running north–south from Billings to El Paso. Las Vegas and Los Angeles are via the I-70 and I-15, while Chicago is via the I-76 and I-80. Further north, Toronto is via the I-76, I-80 and I-94. Drivers should keep in mind that the I-76 is a relatively short stretch of Interstate, which connects the I-80 with the I-70 at Denver – crossing part of the state diagonally from Denver to the northeast corner.

Approximate driving times to Denver: From Las Vegas – 12 hours 50 minutes; El Paso – 14 hours; Chicago – 20 hours 20 minutes; Los Angeles –23 hours 50 minutes; Pittsburgh – 29 hours; Toronto – 30 hours.

Coach services: Denver is a major hub for intercity buses. Some 60 or so coaches arrive and depart on a daily basis from the Greyhound Bus Terminal, 19th Street and Curtis Street (tel: (303) 293 6555), situated just north of the Capitol building. Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9492 or (402) 330 8552; e-mail: ifsr@greyhound.com; website: www.greyhound.com) provides direct services to Salt Lake City, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, St Louis and Chicago, among other cities.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) USA RAIL or 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) operates services from Union Station, 1701 Wynkoop Street (tel: (303) 534 2812), which is at the northwest end of 17th Street. Facilities include a waiting room, toilets, payphones, parking, restaurant and snack bar. Recorded information about Amtrak arrivals and departures is available from the Denver Amtrak ticket office (tel: (303) 534 2812). Amtrak services are comfortable and generally reliable, although it is always a good idea for travellers to confirm reservations and check train times prior to departure.

Rail services: Amtrak’s main east–west route runs through Denver, with three arrivals per day. The California Zephyr runs daily between San Francisco (journey time – 10 hours 40 minutes) and Chicago (journey time – 18 hours). The Ski Train (tel: (303) 296 4754; website: www.skitrain.com) makes a stunning scenic journey from Union Station through the Rocky Mountains to Winter Park Resort (journey time – 2 hours) on Friday, Saturday and Sunday in winter and Saturday in summer.

Transport to the city: The station is located on the edge of LoDo and is within a ten-minute walk of the major hotels. Taxis are available.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Denver has an excellent public transport system run by Regional Transport Direct – RTD (tel: (303) 299 6000; website: www.rtd-denver.com). RTD has 180 bus routes, a light rail line and a number of special services, including the Skyride airport buses.

The light rail runs every ten minutes (0400-0100) and has 24 stops. The main line is between 1-25 Streets and Broadway to 30th Street and Downing Street, including six stops situated Downtown. An extension runs south to Mineral Avenue and Santa Fe in the suburb of Littleton. The ‘C train’ is a second branch, which runs from Union Station to popular attractions including the Pepsi Center and Invesco Field.

The local bus service is comprehensive, covering all areas in Metro Denver and Greater Denver. Times vary on the different routes but generally operate between 0500 and 2400. Some buses stop running between 1800 and 1900, although others, on very busy streets, run until after midnight. It is best for travellers who are unfamiliar with the route to telephone and check.

Tickets for bus and the light rail cost US$1.10 at all times. A ten-ride book of tickets costs US$8.25. Express fares for both bus and light rail are US$2.50 and regional buses, such as the ones to Boulder, cost US$3.50 one way. The fare can be paid in cash on the bus, although the exact amount is required, as the driver does not dispense change. There are also vending machines with clear instructions, located at light rail stations.

The selection of passes on offer are not that much use to tourists, as the options are geared toward locals and commuters, although a selection of monthly passes are available, such as the Local Monthly Pass valid for either bus or light rail travel and costing US$31. There are also a number of passes and offers for travel to and from various sporting events.

Tickets and passes are available for purchase at RTD sales outlets, which include the Market Street Station, Civic Center Station, Denver International Airport west terminal and selected metro-area King Soopers and Safeway stores.

The free 16th Street Mall Shuttle runs between Broadway and Union Station, daily 0514-0206, stopping at every junction. The Skyride airport service has 30 stops, including Denver International Airport (see Getting There By Air). The Cultural Connection Trolley, operated by Grayline, runs during the summer and serves the main city centre attractions, including the Mint, Zoo and Botanical Gardens (see Tours of the City).

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the street but they rarely stop. Visitors can instead find them at taxi ranks outside the major hotels and the bus and train stations, or telephone for one in advance. There are two reputable cab companies in Denver – Yellow Cab (tel: (303) 777 7777) and Metro Taxi (tel: (303) 333 3333). Charges are US$1.60 flag fare, plus US$1.60 per mile and a flat charge of US$0.20 per person. Tipping is customary, usually 15% of the fare.

Limousines
Presidential Limousines (tel: (800) 828 8680; fax: (303) 320 7721; website: www.presidentiallimo.com) offers a complete service, by sedan or stretch limousines, including airport transfers, business, excursions and transport to the ski areas. Other companies include Carey LimousineDenver (tel: (800) 331 1063; e-mail: info@ecareydenver.com; website: www.ecareydenver.com) and Star Limousine (tel: (877) 249 7827; e-mail: coolalia@aol.com; website: www.starlimousine.net).

Rates start at US$55 for an airport transfer, with possible additional charges for airport toll, fuel and an average 20% tip for the chauffeur.

Driving in the City
A car is not necessary for visits limited to Downtown Denver, as everything is within walking distance or accessible by public transport. Getting around by car is easy outside of the peak rush hour periods (0700-0900 and 1600-1800), when there is much congestion on major roads such as the I-25, I-70 and US 36 to Boulder.

Parking is expensive in Downtown and although most of the major hotels have parking facilities for their guests, there still is a charge. Most blocks in Downtown have either a parking garage, surface lot or on-street, metered parking. Parking ramps (garages) cost upwards of US$10, while outdoor lots are less. Parking meters cost 25 cents per 15 minutes, with a limit of two hours. Prices are higher the closer cars are parked to the 16th Street Mall – outlying lots are cheaper. Visitors should be aware that parking costs double (or more) during baseball games and events at Coors Field.

Car Hire
The minimum age for hiring a car is 25 years of age. For British nationals, a full UK driving licence will suffice. Other foreign drivers will require an International Driving Permit and a full licence from their own country. A major credit card is also required to cover the deposit and insurance excess. Insurance cover included in the basic hire cost is usually only for third party and it is strongly advised that additional insurance be purchased to cover theft of or damage to the vehicle. Hirers will be liable for the full replacement value of the car, even if it is not their fault. Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), sometimes called Loss Damage Waiver (LDW), can cost as much as US$16 per day.

All major car hire companies have offices in the city, including Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.rent.drivebudget.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel: (800) 720 7222; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com).

The basic cost of car hire in Colorado starts at US$32 per day, including taxes but excluding additional insurance.

Bicycle Hire
Due to lack of demand, there are no bicycle hire outlets in the city.

Business

Business Profile
Denver’s leading industries are communications, utilities and transportation. Other leading business sectors include aerospace, biomedicine, environmental products and services, information technology and business and financial services.

Nearly 75,000 people are employed in the business and financial services sector, which includes international firms such as Merrill Lynch. Biomedicine and health care is another big sector, with more than 100 companies and several prestigious research institutions, including Clare Chemical Research, who are at the cutting edge of technology for visualising DNA, the Eleanor Roosevelt Institute and Avidity, who develop molecular biology products.

Telecommunications giants US West, Qwest, Level 3 Communications and cable company TCI are established in the Denver area. TCI has a significant share of the American cable market and a financial stake in most of the cable programme companies. Leading information technology firms include AT&T Broadband and Internet software pioneer Sun Microsystems.

Aerospace giant Lockheed Martin is a big employer in the region, particularly for engineers, with several branches of its Space Systems Company, which develops technology for NASA and the US Air Force, spread throughout the metro area. Electronics also plays a significant part in the economy, as does the utility provider, Xcel Energy.

By far the largest sector of the economy, however, is the service industries, accounting for nearly one third of the total workforce in Denver. This is followed by the wholesale and retail trade. The Government is the largest single employer in the city.

Denver was founded on a gold rush and mining, and, although the mining industry is in decline, the mineral and mineral fuels industry still employs several thousand people. The Colorado School of Mines and the National Renewable Energy Laboratory are both located here, as are top engineering and consulting companies.

For most of the past 12 years, Denver has experienced unprecedented growth and prosperity. In the 1990s, Fortune magazine ranked Denver as the second best business city in America. Like the rest of the nation, however, the city has suffered from the recent economic downturn. Denver International Airport, a hub for major airlines, such as United Airlines, brought economic growth to the city until the downturn in the industry after September 2001. A year later, Denver was ranked 20th out of 315 metropolitan areas for the total number of jobs lost as a result of the terrorist attacks on New York. There were also job losses in telecommunications and high-tech manufacturing industries.

As a result, Denver ranked near the bottom of the country’s major metropolitan areas for job growth in the year ending August 2002. This looks set to turn around, however, as Denver added over 25,000 jobs – a 2.2% increase – within this period. The Denver metro unemployment rate also fell to 5.2% in September 2002, which is up from 4.9% last year but still well below the national average of 5.7% (October 2002).

Most projections show an economy that is continuing to grow, albeit at a slower rate than over the past ten years. The main business areas are centred on Cherry Creek, Denver Technological Centre and the Stapleton Business Centre at the former international airport.

Business Etiquette
Good business etiquette is essential in America and the most successful businesspeople are those who exhibit confidence, appear sincere and convey the impression that they are prepared to go beyond standard service. Standing up when greeting someone conveys respect, while a strong handshake, a friendly smile and establishing eye contact will confirm friendliness, honesty, confidence and professionalism. Appointments for meetings should be arranged in advance and times adhered to. Most meetings will start with an exchange of business cards and a little small talk before getting down to business.

Appearance matters and a business suit or pressed trousers, fresh shirt and neatly groomed hair is the order of the day. Even on ‘ dressing down days’, when casual clothes are worn by everyone from the office junior to the managing director, it pays to ensure that the clothes are new, clean and smart. Normal business hours are 0800-1700 Monday to Friday. Entertaining clients is usually done over lunch, dinner or drinks after work, rather than at home.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Set on high, rolling plains, Denver takes the visitor by surprise at every turn, with a view of the mountains at the end of 17th Street or the surprisingly continental feel of the pavement cafés in Larimer Square. Horse-drawn carriages clatter around the solid brick Victorian warehouses of Lower Downtown (‘LoDo’), a sight that is reflected in the mirrored-glass skyscrapers alongside.

Unlike most metropolitan centres, walking is a real pleasure – the Downtown area is compact and bursting with greenery in its parks, pedestrian areas and tree-lined boulevards. Hotels, convention facilities, shops, restaurants and nightspots are all within easy walking distance, not to mention top attractions like the US Mint, modelled on the Palazzo Riccardi in Florence, Denver Art Museum, Colorado History Museum and the Molly Brown House Museum.

Tourist Information
Downtown Info Center
1668 Larimer Street, at 16th Street
Tel: (800) 233 6837 or (303) 892 1505.
E-mail: dwright@dmcvb.org
Website: www.denver.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0900-1300 (Jun-Aug only).

Other information centres are located in Denver International Airport (open daily 0900-2000), Cherry Creek Shopping Center at 3000 East First Avenue (open Monday-Friday 1000-2100, Saturday 1000-2000 and Sunday 1100-1800) and the Tabor Center on 16th Street, Downtown (open Monday-Saturday 1000-1900).

Passes
There are no sightseeing passes available.

Key Attractions

Denver Art Museum
More than 40,000 works of art are housed on seven floors of this striking building, designed by I M Pei, architect of the pyramid in the courtyard of the Louvre in Paris, France. The collection includes American, European and Asian art, with galleries devoted to modern and contemporary works, and art of the American West. The highlights, however, are the fabulous collection of Native American art, on the fourth floor, and the exquisite collection of pre-Columbian works from Central and South America on the fifth floor. This outstanding museum is set to double in size, with a new, adjacent building scheduled for completion in 2004.

13th Street and Acoma Street
Tel: (720) 865 5000.
Website: www.denverartmuseum.org
Transport: Cultural Connection Trolley, any bus along Colfax Avenue, Lincoln Street or Broadway.
Opening hours: Tues, Thurs-Sat 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2100, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: US$6 (concessions available).

Colorado’s Ocean Journey
This exciting attraction houses more than 15,000 fish, mammals and plants in two imaginative river journeys. The Colorado River flows into the same ocean as the Kampar River in Sumatra – on opposite sides of the globe. Both rivers start at 36,600m (12,000ft) above sea level and reach the Pacific Ocean through completely different ecosystems. Visitors can follow the journeys of both rivers in this enormous world-class exhibition, part aquarium, part zoo and part theme park.

The Colorado River crashes through mountain waterfalls, trout streams, arid red rock canyons and flash floods on its way to the Sea of Cortez. The Kampar River winds down from the mountains of Sumatra through tropical rainforest, where parrots fly free and tigers lurk near the clear waters of a coral reef, sheltering sharks and multicoloured tropical fish.

700 Water Street
Tel: (303) 561 4450.
Website: www.oceanjourney.org
Transport: Bus 10.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (summer); daily 1000-1700 (winter); last admission one hour before closing.
Admission: US$14.95; concessions available; US$6 for parking.

Colorado State Capitol
Built in 1908, in the domed classical style, Colorado State Capitol embodies the confident civic pride of the young America at the turn of the century. The brilliant dome gleams with 24-carat gold leaf, outdone only by the unique rose-colored Colorado onyx wainscoting inside. Quarried in Beulah, Colorado, the entire world supply of this onyx was used here. The highlight for the fit and healthy visitor is the winding 93-step climb to the top of the dome, rewarded by panoramic views of the Rocky Mountains. Back at ground level, a brass marker on the steps reminds visitors that they are still ‘one mile above sea level’.

200 East Colfax Avenue, at Broadway
Tel: (303) 866 2604.
Website: www.archives.state.co.us/cap/first.htm
Transport: Cultural Connection Trolley, any bus along Colfax Avenue, Lincoln Street or Broadway.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0700-1730; tours depart every 45 minutes, 0915-1430; dome open 0900-1530.
Admission: Free.

Denver Museum of Nature and Science
The fourth largest museum of its kind in America houses exhibits that explore earth and the creatures that live on it. Among the highlights are the world-famous handcrafted dioramas, depicting animals from around the globe in realistic settings. The most memorable exhibit is the US$7-million Dollar Prehistoric Journey, which takes visitors back to the era of the dinosaurs. The walk through ‘envioramas’ of prehistoric earth features aggressive giant dinosaurs, complete with sound effects. Other features include interactive investigations of the human body in the Hall of Life, the galaxies of the planetarium and the realistic movie adventures in the IMAX theatre. Opening in mid-2003, Space Odyssey will be one of the largest space exhibitions in the nation, with a digital planetarium and simulated space journeys.

2001 Colorado Boulevard
Tel: (303) 322 7009 or (800) 925 2250.
Website: www.dmnh.org
Transport: Cultural Connection Trolley, or any bus along Colfax Avenue or Colorado Boulevard.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: US$8 (museum); US$8 (IMAX); US$12 (combination ticket); concessions available.

Molly Brown House Museum
The spacious, three-storey Molly Brown House Museum was built in 1890 and sold to the Browns in 1894, for US$30,000. Now restored to its original splendour of draped velvet, lace, polished wood and rich carved furniture, the house affords not only a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of Victorian Denver’s upper-middle class but also brings to life one of the most exuberant characters of the Denver gold rush. By her own account, Molly Brown was the ‘unsinkable’ heroine of the Titanic disaster and the house is full of mementoes of this socialite’s extraordinary existence. In the holiday season, the house is decked out in a re-creation of one of Molly’s legendary Christmas parties.

1340 Pennsylvania Street (two blocks south of Colfax Avenue)
Tel: (303) 832 4092.
Website: www.mollybrown.org
Transport: Cultural Connection Trolley; any bus along Colfax Avenue.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1200-1600 (Sep-May); Mon-Sat 0930-1600, Sun 1200-1600 (Jun-Aug).
Admission: US$6.50 (concessions available).

Black American West Museum & Heritage Center
This small but fascinating history museum is dedicated to the Black American men and women who helped settle the American West. Although seldom portrayed in film and television, one third of the working cowboys in the Old West were African Americans, many of them freed slaves who migrated west after the Civil War. Photographs, documents, oral histories, exhibits and memorabilia tell their story. The museum is housed in the former home of Dr Justina Ford, Denver’s first African American doctor.

3901 California Street
Tel: (303) 292 2566.
Website: www.blackamericanwest.org
Transport: Light rail, 30th and Downing stop.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (Jun-mid Sep); Wed-Fri 1000-1400, Sat and Sun 1000-1700 (mid Sep-May).
Admission: US$6.

Colorado History Museum
Colorado’s colourful history of mountain men, buffalo hunters, Native Americans, gold panners, miners, sodbusters and railroads comes to life in this innovative museum. Among the highlights are a series of miniature dioramas that depict frontier scenes, such as a Cheyenne village and a buffalo hunt. There are also displays on the silver king Horace Tabor and his wife Baby Doe, as well as exhibits from the Anasazi cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde.

1300 Broadway
Tel: (303) 866 3682.
Website: www.coloradohistory.org
Transport: Cultural Connection Trolley; any bus along Colfax Avenue, Lincoln Street or Broadway.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1630, Sun 1200-1630.
Admission: US$5.

Further Distractions

Beer Brewing
Denver’s breweries large and small are a beer lover’s delight at any time of year, although the LoDo Brewfest in June is when the beer and festivities spill out onto the street and almost every person (over the age of 21 years old) can be seen enjoying Denver’s favourite tipple. Denver also hosts the Great American Beer Festival in October, during which visitors get to sample the best beverages from more than 300 breweries from around the country.

Coors Brewery, located in Golden, is the largest single brewery in the world. Guided 90-minute tours are available, following the entire brewing process, from roasting barley to bottling. There are free beer samples for those over the age of 21 years old.

At the opposite extreme, there are microbreweries and brewpubs. These serve and brew in-house distinctive beer that will not be found elsewhere. The city’s best brewpubs are all within walking distance in LoDo. Each brewpub offers tours and tiny samples of their ales, porters, stouts and lagers. The best include Wynkoop Brewing Company, Rock Bottom Brewery and Breckenridge Brewery.

Coors Brewery
13th & Ford Street, Golden
Tel: (303) 277 2337.
Website: www.coors.com
Transport: Bus 16 from Market Street Bus Station to Golden; free shuttle bus to Coors.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1600.
Admission: Free.

Wynkoop Brewing Company
18th Street and Wynkoop Street
Tel: (303) 297 2700.
Website: www.wynkoop.com
Transport: RTD Light Rail to Union Station.
Opening hours: Lunch until 1600; dinner from 1600-0200.
Admission: Free.

Rock Bottom Brewery
1001 16th Street
Tel: (303) 534 7616.
Website: www.rockbottom.com
Transport: 16th Street Mall shuttle.
Opening hours: Until 0200.
Admission: Free.

Breckenridge Brewery
2220 Blake Street
Tel: (303) 297 3644.
Website: www.breckenridgebrewery.com
Transport: 16th Street Mall shuttle.
Opening hours: Until 0200.
Admission: Free.

Denver Botanic Gardens
Regarded as one of the top five botanic gardens in the nation, Denver Botanic Gardens is a 9-hectare (23-acre) oasis in the heart of the city. Among 30 different gardens are the Rock Alpine Garden, which recreates high altitude gardens from the Himalayas to the Rockies, the tranquil Japanese Garden with a teahouse, Water Gardens and a Monet Garden, reminiscent of the artist’s inspirational garden in Giverny, France. The conservatory houses one of the country’s largest palm collections.

1005 York Street
Tel: (720) 865 3500.
Website: www.botanicgardens.org
Transport: Bus 15 from Downtown with a transfer to bus 24.
Opening hours: Sat-Tues 0900-2000, Wed-Fri 0900-1700 (May-Sep); daily 0900-1700 (Oct-Apr).
Admission: US$6.50 (summer); US$5.50 (winter).

Buckhorn Exchange
Colorado’s most historic eating place is a cross between a 19th-century museum, crammed with exhibits, and a Wild West saloon. Founded by Henry Zeis, one of Buffalo Bill’s scouts, in 1893, Buckhorn Exchange provided a comfortable watering hole for the businessmen, gamblers, Indian chiefs, railroad builders and miners who had flocked to boom-town Denver. The famous bean soup, popular with the first customers, is still on the menu, along with buffalo steak and fried alligator tail.

Zeis, dubbed ‘Shorty’ by the legendary Chief Sitting Bull, amassed an amazing collection of animals, weapons and memorabilia from the days of the Wild West, including the sword used by General Custer at the Battle of the Little Bighorn. Moose, buffalo and mountain sheep heads hang side by side a huge collection of guns on the walls of the Buckhorn Exchange. There may be Winchesters, Derringers, repeaters, the fabled Colt 45 and even a rare palm pistol on the walls but customers wanting a beer at the huge, carved white-oak bar, brought from Essen in Germany in 1857, are still required to check their guns at the door.

1000 Osage Street
Tel: (303) 534 9505.
E-mail: info@buckhorn.com
Website: www.buckhorn.com
Transport: Light rail to Tenth and Osage.
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 1100-1400, 1600-2100, Fri 1100-1400, 1600-2200, Sat 1700-2200, Sun 1700-2100.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Recorded CD walking tours of Lower Downtown are on sale at the Denver Convention and Visitors Bureau, Downtown (see Tourist Information).

LoDo District Inc (tel: (303) 628 5428; website: www.lodo.org/walk-tour-info.htm), a non-profit community organisation, gives walking tours of Lower Downtown every Saturday at 1000, from mid-June through mid-October. Tours cost US$5 and take between one and a half and two hours, meeting at the front of Union Station, on the corner of 17th Street and Wynkoop Street.

The Colorado Historical Society (tel: (303) 866 3682; website: www.coloradohistory.org) offers walking tours of various historic buildings and sites in the city, on a variety of changing themes. These two-hour tours cost around US$35 and take place on Saturday morning, from June through September. Departure points vary depending on the theme of the walk and these are published online.

Bus Tours
The Cultural Connection Trolley takes in most of the city’s main attractions. It operates from Memorial Day (late May) to Labor Day (early September). The all-day pass costs US$16 and includes a two-hour tour and discounts at attractions. Visitors can get on and off the bus throughout the day. Trolleys leave from Cherry Creek and Denver Pavilions in Downtown at 0830. But tourists can pick one up at any point on the circuit. The last tour begins at 1530 and ends at 1730. Tickets are available for purchase from the driver. Free pick-up from outlying hotels is available. The trolley is operated by Gray Line of Denver (tel: (303) 289 2841 or (800) 348 6877; fax: (303) 286 7052; e-mail: denvergrayline@mindspring.com; website: www.coloradograyline.com). Gray Line also offers a Denver City Tour, costing US$30, which takes three-and-a-half hours and covers all the major sites. Tours run daily all year at 0830. There is also a four-hour Mountain Parks Tour, costing US$30, which takes in the foothills, Red Rocks, Golden and Lookout Mountain. Tours run daily all year at 1330, and there is a discount for combined tours.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Golden: Denver’s origins in mining and the Wild West are clearly evident at Golden, 23km (14 miles) west of Denver. The handsome Victorian buildings in the historic business district are beautifully restored and colourful shops, art galleries, bars and restaurants are set beneath the wooden arcades. Heritage Square, 18301 West Colfax Avenue (tel: (303) 279 2789), a reconstructed Colorado mining town from the 1870s, is mainly of interest to children, with amusement park rides and a music hall. The winding, scenic Lariat Trail from Highway Six leads up Lookout Mountain to Buffalo Bill’s Museum and Grave (tel: (303) 526 0747; website: www.buffalobill.org), which has original posters from his Wild West shows and exhibits illustrating life on the frontier and the days of the famous Pony Express. Moving on to the heyday of the railroads in the west, the Colorado Railroad Museum, 17155 West 44th Avenue (tel: (303) 279 4591; website: www.crrm.org), has a vast collection of memorabilia, more than 50 narrow gauge cars and locomotives and a gigantic model railroad layout. Golden is reached by US40 or US6 from Denver or by RTD buses 16, 17 and 44L.

The Greater Golden Colorado Chamber of Commerce, 1010 Washington Avenue (tel: (800) 590 3113; fax: (303) 279 0332; website: www.goldencochamber.org) provides tourist information on Golden.

For a Whole Day

Georgetown: Lying in a spectacular mountain valley, 68km (42 miles) west of Denver, Georgetown (website: www.georgetowncolorado.com) is a historic mining town maintained and restored in turn-of-the-century style. Horse-drawn carriage tours wind through the pretty side streets but the highlight in summer is the steam-powered Georgetown Loop Railroad ride to the Lebanon Silver Mine. The narrow gauge, antique steam locomotive curves down a mountain ledge, crossing over the 27m (100ft) Devil’s Gate Bridge. The trip is very popular, so visitors should book ahead (tel: (303) 569 2403 or (800) 691 4386; website: www.georgetownloop.com).

From Georgetown, all the routes are scenic but the drive north on US40, which winds through the alpine beauty of Arapaho National Forest to Winter Park and on to Grand Lake, is particularly good. From here, the route goes over the famous Trail Ridge Road (closed during winter), through Rocky Mountain National Park, with views right across the Rockies, and continues on to Denver via Estes Park and Boulder. It gives a taste of the grandeur of the peaks, the clear blue of the lakes, the verdant forest trails and the vast spaces for outdoor enjoyment.

The Georgetown Visitor Centre (tel: (303) 569 2888; e-mail: gtownvisitor@earthlink.net; website: www.town.georgetown.co.us) provides further information.

Sport

Baseball is the national passion. Denver’s major league team, the Colorado Rockies (website: www.coloradorockies.com), attracts record attendance to the 50,000-seat Coors Field Stadium, Blake Street and 20th Street, in LoDo (tel: (303) 762 5437). The team has not been successful in the 2002 standings, trailing at the bottom end of the National League West table. The season runs from April to October and tickets are obtainable at the stadium in person from Monday to Friday 0900-1800, Saturday 0900-1600, Sunday 0900-1600 (home-game days only) or by telephone (tel: (800) 388 7625).

At the opposite end of the sports district from Coors Field is the new, state-of-the art Pepsi Center, Speer Boulevard and Auraria Parkway (tel: (303) 405 1100; website: www.pepsicenter.com), a multipurpose stadium and concert venue that is home to Colorado Avalanche (website: www.coloradoavalanche.com), Denver’s ice hockey team. The ice hockey season runs from October to April. Tickets are available from the box office (tel: (303) 405 1111).

American football is played at Invesco Field at Mile High Stadium, 1701 Bryant Street, home of the Denver Broncos (website: www.denverbroncos.com), the city’s major league team. Tickets are obtainable from the ticket office (tel: (720) 258 3333; e-mail: tickets@broncos.nfl.com). The regular season is September-December.

Cycling: Denver is one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in America. The Platte River Greenway is the spine of the cycle trails network, designed for recreational and commuting purposes. A detailed Denver Bike Map, costing US$6, is available by mail order (website: www.localsponsors.com/denver/bike/getmap.htm), from the Denver Permit Center, 200 West 14th Avenue (tel: (303) 640 5916), or from bookshops and retail outlets.

Fitness centres: Many Denver hotels have fitness rooms on site. There are fitness centres and gyms located throughout the city. The Denver Athletic Club, 1325 Glenarm Place (tel: (303) 534 1211; website: www.denverathleticclub.org) is located Downtown.

Golf: The City Park Golf Course, 2500 York Street (tel: (303) 295 4420), is a municipal course. Reservations should be made at the club, 24 hours in advance, although same-day credit card reservations can be made by telephone. The fee for 18 holes is US$18 weekdays and US$20 weekends. Membership is not required.

Skiing: There are over two dozen ski resorts within easy reach of Denver, ranging from the very basic to the playgrounds of the rich and famous. Winter Park Resort (tel: (303) 892 0961; website: www.skiwinterpark.com), 108km (67 miles) from Denver, via the I-70 and US 40, is actually owned by the city of Denver. This laid-back resort is suitable for both families and serious skiers, with a variety of terrain, 121 trails and 20 lifts. On weekends, the Ski Train travels to the resort from Denver’s Union Station. There is also a great programme of summer activities, including mountain biking and the wonderful Alpine Slide.

Tennis: Denver has 125 free public tennis courts. Good ones are located at Lincoln Park, Mariposa Street and West 11th Avenue, and Argo Park, Logan Street and East 47th Avenue. The Gates Tennis Centre, 100 South Adams Street (tel: (303) 355 4461), in the Cherry Creek district, has a choice of 20 hard surface courts costing US$4 per hour for singles, US$5 per hour for doubles.

Shopping

Denver is the largest shopping city in a 966km (600-mile) radius. Shopping hours vary but stores are generally open 0900-1700/1800, with shopping malls open until 2100 or 2200. Downtown stores may close on Sunday and malls are open daily. Sales tax is 7.5% but cannot be refunded to international visitors.

Downtown shopping centres are based around the 16th Street Mall, a 1.6km-long (one mile) pedestrian promenade, lined with pavement cafés. Free buses pass along the promenade every 90 seconds. The Tabor Center, situated at the north end of the mall, has 80 shops and restaurants in a three-storey, glass building. Nearby, Denver Pavilions has 50 shops and restaurants, including the Wolfgang Puck Café, Maggiano’s Little Italy, Virgin Records and Barnes & Noble. By contrast, the beautiful Victorian buildings of Larimer Square, in Denver’s oldest street, house art galleries, exquisite antique jewellery stores, clothing stores, restaurants, cafés and nightclubs.

Southeast of Downtown, the Cherry Creek Shopping District has 420 department stores, galleries and boutiques divided between the tree-lined streets of Cherry Creek North and upscale Cherry Creek Shopping Center, with Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor, Saks and Tiffany’s. The Tattered Cover Bookstore, the largest independent bookstore in America, is opposite the centre, on First Avenue.

Park Meadows, a self-styled ‘retail resort’ with large branches of Nordstrom, Dillard’s and Foleys department stores, is situated south of Denver, off the I-25 in Littleton. Further south on the I-25, Castle Rock has Colorado’s largest factory outlet centre, with more than 130 shops featuring top brand-name goods at reduced prices. The newest additions to the shopping scene are Flatiron Crossing, another mammoth mall located between Denver and Boulder, on the US 36, and Colorado Mills, in the suburb of Lakewood, described as ‘Disneyland meets outlet mall’.

South Broadway Antique Row, 400-1900 South Broadway, at the end of the light rail line, has 400 dealers selling everything from furniture to soda fountains. Most stores are open daily. The Mile High Flea Market, 7007 East 88th Avenue, Henderson, has 32 hectares (80 acres) of junk, bargains and curiosities. It is open on weekends and Wednesday 0700-1700 and admission costs US$2 at the weekend and US$1 on Wednesday.

Denver is a good place for one to buy sporting goods, with excellent deals on everything from ski gear through camping kit to outdoor clothing. Two of the largest stores are Gart Brothers Sports Castle, Tenth Street and Broadway, with entire floors dedicated to particular sports, and REI, 15th Street and Platte Street, with a rock climbing wall and cold room for testing arctic apparel.

Culture

The rich cultural diversity of Denver’s population means that black, Hispanic and Native American cultures have a vibrant presence in Denver. Denver citizens are highly supportive of the arts, contributing more public funding to the arts per capita than any other US city.

The Denver Performing Arts Complex (DPAC), 14th Street and Curtis Street (tel: (303) 893 4100; website: www.denvercenter.org), is the world’s largest performing arts centre under one roof. Nine separate venues include the Auditorium Theater and Buell Theater for large dance, drama and opera productions; the cabaret-style Garner Galleria Theater; small intimate theatre spaces in the Helen Bonfils Theatre Complex; and the Boettcher Concert Hall, a large in-the-round concert hall. As well as hosting all the major touring companies, DPAC is home to Denver’s most prestigious music, dance and theatre companies.

Tickets for all theatre and concert venues are available from The TicketMan, 6800 North Broadway (tel: (303) 430 1111; website: www.ticketmanusa.com), and Ticketmaster (tel: (303) 830 8497; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

The Friday editions of the Denver Post (website: www.denverpost.com) and Rocky Mountain News (website: www.rockymountainnews.com) contain entertainment pages. The free weekly tabloid Westword (website: www.westword.com) also has extensive listings.

Music: The Colorado Symphony Orchestra’s (website: www.coloradosymphony.com) season lasts from September to May at The Denver Performing Arts Complex – DPAC (see above). The occasional Sunday afternoon ‘casual classics’ concerts are particularly good value. Opera Colorado (website: www.operacolorado.org), also at DPAC, is the only company in the USA producing grand opera in the round. English translations of the words projected above the stage, children’s opera workshops and a road show of summer concerts are all designed to make opera accessible to a wider audience.

Theatre: Denver is a major international theatre player, presenting prestigious world premieres as well as sustaining a thriving local theatre scene. As well as The Denver Center Theatre Company, resident at The Denver Center for the Performing Arts complex, there are countless small theatre companies. The Germinal Stage Denver, 2450 West 44th Avenue (tel: (303) 455 7108), stages everything from experimental productions to classics. Light comedies and musicals run at Denver Victorian Playhouse, 4201 Hooker Street (tel: (303) 433 4343). The Rattlebrain Theatre Co, 1601 Arapahoe Street (tel: (720) 932 7384; website: www.rattlebraintheater.com) has made headlines with its hilarious comedy shows.

Dance: Colorado Ballet (tel: (303) 837 8888; website: www.coloradoballet.org) presents full classical ballet and shorter pieces at The Denver Centre for the Performing Arts. Two major modern dance companies do original pieces in Denver and on nation-wide tours. Cleo Parker Robinson Dance, 119 Park Avenue West (tel: (303) 295 1759; website: www.cleoparkerdance.org), is a multicultural group that performs at the DPAC, while Kim Robards Dance, 821 Acoma Street (tel: (303) 825 4847), brings in international choreographers for performances at various venues. Both companies teach dance with classes for all levels from tiny tots to professional dancers.

Film: Multiplex cinemas showing all the latest releases as well as some classics are located at Denver Pavilions, Downtown, at the 16th Street mall and throughout the metropolitan area. Independent films, arthouse, foreign-language features and popular crossover titles can be found at the Chez Artiste, 2800 South Colorado Boulevard, Amherst Avenue (tel: (303) 757 7161), the Esquire Theatre, 590 Downing Street (tel: (303) 733 5757), and Mayan Theater, 110 Broadway (tel: (303) 744 6796), a restored Art Deco Mayan revival-style theatre. All are run by Landmark Theatres (website: www.landmarktheatres.com). For documentary and larger-than-life nature and adventure films, the giant screen at the IMAX film theatre, at the Denver Museum of Science and Nature, 2001 Colorado Boulevard (tel: (303) 322 7009; fax: (800) 925 2250; website: www.dmns.org) is spectacular.

Ridley Scott’s Thelma & Louise (1991) and Steven Spielberg’s Indiana Jones & The Last Crusade (1989) are just two of the movies filmed in Colorado. For fans of George Lucas’ Star Wars trilogy, Luke Skywalker’s X-Wing Fighter is on long-term display at Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Museum, 711 East Academy Boulevard (tel: (303) 360 5360).

Cultural events: Denver’s rich cultural mix is exuberantly celebrated in ethnic festivals throughout the year. The annual March PowWow is one of the country’s largest celebrations of Native American culture, featuring music, dance and storytelling. There is a Colorado Scottish Festival in August, a German Oktoberfest in October and the city’s biggest parade for St Patrick’s Day Parade in March. Cinco de Mayo (Fifth of May) is one of America’s largest celebrations of Latino culture, with food, music, dance and arts.

The Cherry Creek Arts Festival, held over the long Fourth of July weekend, has the tree-lined avenues of Cherry Creek North jam-packed with street entertainers and gourmet food booths. Every item in the arts and crafts exhibition, from photography to sculpture and jewellery, is of the highest quality. At the International Buskerfest in June, jugglers, mime artists and comedians transform 16th Street Mall into a 1.6km-long (one mile) outdoor theatre, while in September/October, the Colorado Performing Arts Festival has music, dance and theatre spilling onto the streets from The Denver Centre for the Performing Arts.

However, true to its Wild West origins, Denver’s largest festival is the National Western Stock Show & Rodeo, in January, attracting over 400,000 cowboys. This began in a tent, on the present day showgrounds, in 1906, and is now one of the largest rodeos and livestock shows in existence.

Literary Notes
Horace Greeley, founding editor of the New York Tribune, described Denver in the mid-19th century, as a ‘log city of 150 dwellings, not three fourths completed nor two thirds inhabited nor one third fit to be’. By 1917, local author, Dabney Otis Collins, could declare, ‘When I walk down a Denver street, I always feel as if I were listening to a brass band.’ A different image again is portrayed in Jack Kerouac’s classic novel, On the Road (1957), where the action takes place in the loose-living Mile High City of the 50s.

Denver is home to Stephen White, the best selling author and creator of fictional psychologist Alan Gregory, who first appeared in Privileged Information (1991). Much of the action in Michael Connelly’s thriller, The Poet (1996), is also set in Denver.

Nightlife

Lower Downtown’s continually growing number of restaurants, bars and brew-pubs ensures that the area is vibrant and alive during the week and positively jumping at the weekend. Live music can be found there most nights, as well as at Cherry Creek. Country music is prevalent, as is jazz and blues and, with a bit of searching, you’ll also find venues offering folk, bluegrass, hard rock and pop. In the clubs, you can expect to dance to everything from 60s and 70s tunes to hip hop, house and jazz. Dressing is informal and anything goes, provided it is tidy and clean. Under state licensing laws alcohol can be served 0700-0200 but only to people over the age of 21 years old. The price of a drink depends on what you are drinking and where you are drinking it. Prices generally range between US$3.50 for a beer in an inexpensive bar to US$8-10 for a glass of wine or a cocktail at a club.

People younger than 21 years may not engage in gambling of any kind. Licensing and gambling laws are strictly enforced and young people may be asked to produce proof of age with photo ID to gain entry to casinos, bars and clubs.

The most comprehensive nightlife listings can be found in the weekly free newspaper, Westword (website: www.westword.com).

Bars: There are numerous brew pubs and micro breweries in Denver (see Further Distractions). Nallen’s Pub, 1429 Market Street, at 14th Street, is the quintessential Irish bar – the genuine article, complete with Irish owner – and the place to drink Guinness. Brendan’s Pub, 1625 Market Street, is also a good bet, serving great food and beer, as well as doubling up as a popular live blues venue. For something a little more sleek and stylish, try the Purple Martini, 15th Street, a jazz bar with dozens of martini-type drinks on offer, or the nearby Blue 67, 15th Street and Lawrence Street. Churchill’s Bar, located in the famous Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th Street, is Denver’s most fashionable cigar bar with a fine range of single malt scotches available.

Many good bars in Denver can be found within restaurants, such as Wazee Supper Club, Wazee Street, or Redfish, Wynkoop Street. Wazee is open late and has an informal, bohemian diner atmosphere, with beers from the Wynkoop Brewing Company, while Redfish has an enormous, popular bar and live blues bands from Thursday to Saturday.

Casinos: All the gambling is out of town in the historic mining communities of Black Hawk and Central City, some 56km (35 miles) west, or at Cripple Creek, 129km (80 miles) south. Casinos are strictly controlled – only blackjack, poker and slot machines are permitted and stakes are limited to a maximum bet of US$5. The age restriction in casinos is 21 years and proof of age, such as a valid ID or passport, is often required for entry. There is no dress code.

Colorado Central Station Casino, Black Hawk, on Highway 119, is one of the largest casinos in Colorado and the most popular in Black Hawk. It features three floors of tables and gaming machines, as well as a restaurant and entertainment facilities. Famous Bonanza Lucky Strike, 107 Main Street, Central City, is one of the last small, family run casinos. Situated in a Victorian building, there are 175 slot machines, three blackjack tables and a poker table, plus a restaurant serving a prime rib dinner for under US$3 and some of the best Mexican food around.

Clubs: La Rumba, West Ninth Street and Acoma Street, is a sexy dance club for all ages, with salsa music. Rock Island, 15th Street, has rock and alternative music. Club Sanctuary, 21st Street and Larimer Street, has the hottest new global house music from Thursday to Sunday. Snake Pit, 608 East 13th Avenue, is open nightly and rotates house, Brit pop, garage, retro and breakdown nights. Not so young, cool or trendy but seriously good fun nonetheless, Poly Esther’s Culture Club/Dance Plex, 2301 Blake Street, is a 70s and 80s-style nightclub, complete with disco balls and coloured squares that light up on the dancefloor.

Live music: Bruce Springsteen, Michael Jackson and The Beatles all have played Denver’s most spectacular venue, the Red Rocks Amphitheatre, Red Rocks Park (tel: (303) 640 2637; website: www.redrocksonline.com). Audiences of 9000 come to listen to symphony orchestras, jazz ensembles and pop groups against the magical sunlit glow of the 70-million-year-old red rocks. The Pepsi Center, Speer Boulevard and Auraria Parkway (tel: (303) 405 1111; website: www.pepsicenter.com), also stages large concerts with international artists. Likewise, major concerts are also held at the Paramount Theatre, 16th Street and Glenarm Place (tel: (303) 892 7016; website: http://historicparamounttheatre.netfirms.com), a fabulously restored Art Deco theatre.

The Ogden Theatre, 935 East Colfax Avenue (tel: (303) 831 9448), is an old vaudeville theatre and movie house that is now a venue for local and national bands. The Bluebird Theater, 3317 East Colfax Avenue (tel: (303) 322 2308), and the Fillmore Auditorium, 1510 Clarkson at Colfax Avenue, are other historic venues.

Herman’s Hideaway, 1578 South Broadway, is probably Denver’s top venue for live rock music. This is where to see the up-and-coming stars of tomorrow, at the Tuesday and Wednesday night New Band Showcase. Soiled Dove, 1949 Market Street, is another popular venue, with music from rock to calypso. If you’ve read Kerouac’s On the Road (1957), you’ll be familiar with the legendary jazz joint, El Chapultepec, 1962 Market Street. Crowded and smoky, this blast from the past still has the best jazz in Denver. Jazz @Jack’s, 1553 Platte Street No 202, is another hotspot for live jazz. For country and western, the Grizzly Rose Saloon & Dance Emporium, 5450 North Valley Highway, offers nightly live music and free dance lessons.

City Statistics

Location: Colorado, United States of America.
Country dialling code: 1 (the area code of 303 or 720 must be included when dialling, even for local calls within the city).
Population: 554,636 (city); 2.4 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 50.1% Caucasian, 31.7% Hispanic, 11.1% African-American, 2.8% Asian & Pacific Islander, 1.3% Native American, 3% multiracial.
Religion: Majority Christian (Catholic), although all religions are represented.
Time zone: GMT - 7 (GMT - 6 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110–120 volts AC, 60Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: - 6°C (43°F).
Average July temp: 31°C (88F).
Annual rainfall: 391mm (15.4 inches).
Annual snowfall: 1531mm (60.3 inches).

Special Events

National Western Stock Show and Rodeo, 20 performances, parades, concerts and the opportunity to buy cowboy gear, Jan, Denver Coliseum
Buffalo Bill’s Birthday Party, festivities held at his grave site on the summit of Lookout Mountain, 23 Feb, Buffalo Bill Museum, Lookout Mountain
St Patrick’s Day, parade, 17 Mar, Downtown
March Pow Wow, the country’s largest Native American gathering, mid Mar, Denver Coliseum
The Indian Market, features top native American artists, late Apr, The Fort
Cinco de Mayo, a celebration of Hispanic food and culture, 3-5 May, Downtown
City Park Festival of the Arts, May, City Park
Capital Hill People’s Fair, live entertainment, food and crafts, early Jun, Civic Center Park
International Buskerfest, a free event of clowns, musicians, jugglers, sword swallowers and puppeteers, late Jun, 16th Street Mall, Downtown
Cherry Creek Arts Festival, outdoor art, live bands and an Artzone featuring hands on opportunities, Fourth of July weekend, Cherry Creek North
LoDo Music Festival, Denver favourite with live music on four stages, mid Jul, Lower Downtown
Colorado Scottish Festival, Aug, Highland Heritage Park, Highlands Ranch
Festival of Mountain and Plain, food, carnival rides and live music, Labor Day weekend, in Aug/Sep, Civic Center Park
Colorado Performing Arts Festival, music, dance and theatre, Sep/Oct, The Denver Centre for the Performing Arts
Oktoberfest, German beer festival, Sep/Oct, Larimer Square
Denver International Film Festival, movie stars throng the sidewalks at this annual event for the screening of new films, early Oct, various venues
Great American Beer Festival, the chance to sample up to 1500 of the country’s best beers, early Oct, Denver Convention Center
Parade of Lights, big parade of floats and bands to mark the start of the holiday season, early Dec, throughout Downtown

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1.29
33cl bottle of beer: US$3.50
Financial Times newspaper: US$1
36-exposure colour film: US$4.95
City-centre bus ticket: US$1.10
Adult football ticket: US$30-68 (club level US$175-312)
Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$25-40

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005