World City Guide

Riding on the back of the roaring success of the ‘Celtic Tiger’ economy, Dublin in the new millennium is a city on the rise and rise. Business in many sectors is booming and the city overflows with tourists, who flock to the ‘party capital of Europe’ to sample the infamous Irish craic (fun).

But things have not always been so rosy for this thousand-year-old city on the East coast of Ireland. For much of the first half of the 20th century, strife and unrest tore Dublin apart as it was involved in a messy and violent divorce from Britain. Despite ongoing attempts to find a lasting peace settlement, the religious and political troubles further north still dominate Irish politics.

However, it is easy to see why tourists today head to Dublin in such large numbers. This vibrant, fun-loving city on the River Liffey is full of atmospheric pubs where the craic is spun with a well-polished finish and the streets echo with the ghosts of artistic luminaries such as James Joyce and W B Yeats. An excellent time to visit is between April and October, when the weather is at its best, with July and August the busiest months. Increasingly, however, the city is a popular destination throughout the year, with many festivals, cultural and religious events and sporting fixtures.

Sightseeing highlights include the early medieval Christchurch Cathedral (Dublin’s oldest building), the cobbled streets of Temple Bar, Phoenix Park (Europe’s largest urban park), the National Gallery of Ireland and the treasures of the National Museum of Ireland, containing Europe’s finest collection of prehistoric gold artefacts. A plethora of buildings and museums ( including Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university, and the Guinness Storehouse) convey a real sense of living history. Indeed, it is this living history, present in the media of music and literature, which has brought Dublin such international acclaim. In the 20th century, a string of poets and writers immortalised the city, none more so than James Joyce whose seminal Ulysses (1922), which depicts one day in Dublin, is considered by many literary critics to be the greatest novel of that century.

In the new millennium, Dubliners are no longer content to rest on the laurels of this richly cultural history. Alongside the smoky old bars, the museums and the folk music in the pubs, there is a new Dublin of funky bars, rebuilt city streets and confident moneyed 20-somethings – an image that is being carried forward by popular music acts like Westlife, the Corrs and, the biggest of them all, U2.

This new face of the Irish capital stems mainly from the stunning economic success of the country in recent years, which has managed to combine extensive funding from the EU with sound financial acumen to stimulate high levels of growth. Key industries include electronics, teleservices, retail and tourism. Dublin boasts the youngest population in Europe (with 41% under 25 years and 69% under 45 years). Its leafy parks are full of mobile phone swinging young professionals enjoying the summer, while during winter, they seek refuge in Dublin’s numerous bars. There is no denying Dublin, the ‘capital of Euro-cool’, is currently booming and its citizens are intent on enjoying it while it lasts.

However, the economic boom has also had negative implications. Prices have increased dramatically and, although long-term unemployment figures have steadily decreased in recent years, the capital is struggling to come to terms with the recent influx of immigrants and asylum seekers, who have imported cultures often at odds with Dublin’s own lifestyle. Despite all these recent changes, essentially the city and its people have remained the same. Alongside trend-setting bars, clubs and designer shops it is still possible to find quiet, traditional pubs, busking fiddlers in Temple Bar, even horse-drawn carts clip-clopping along cobbled streets. It is a fascinating blend of tradition and contemporary Irish life. No wonder, in Dublin today, Irish eyes are well and truly smiling.

Getting There By Air

Dublin Airport (DUB)
Tel: (01) 814 1111.
Website: www.dublin-airport.com

Dublin Airport is located 12km (7 miles) north of the city centre. One of the world’s fastest growing airports, in 2003 it enjoyed another record-breaking year, with nearly 15.9 million passengers. This continued growth was driven partly by the launch of 33 new routes and services from the airport and the addition of 10 new airlines. It currently has 40 scheduled airlines serving over 100 destinations.

Major airlines: Airlines serving the airport include the national airline Aer Lingus (tel: (01) 886 8888 ; website: www.aerlingus.com), Air Canada, Air France, Air Malta, Alitalia, British Airways, bmi British Midland, Continental Airlines, Delta, Lufthansa, Euromanx, Ryanair and SAS.

Approximate flight times to Dublin: From London is 1 hour; from New York is 6 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours; from Toronto is 8 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 24 hours.

Airport facilities: These include a tourist office, bureaux de change, duty-free shopping, bank and currency exchange machines, post office, shops and newsagents, pharmacy, telephones, restaurants, bars and car hire from Avis, Budget, Hertz, Murrays Europcar and National.

Business facilities: Airside, the Anna Livia Executive Lounge (tel: (01) 814 4501) contains a business centre with telephones, fax machines, photocopying and Internet access for use by anyone in possession of a boarding pass for a ¬20 walk-in fee (valid for 3 hours). The Meeting Rooms (tel: (01) 844 7501) contains three landside meeting rooms for hire, located on the mezzanine floor near the restaurants.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: Buses 16A, 41, 41A/B/C and 46X run to the city centre every 10 to 20 minutes daily 0800-2330 (journey time – 40 minutes) and cost ¬1.80. They are operated by Dublin Bus (tel: (01) 873 4222; website: www.dublinbus.ie). The Airlink Express (tel: (01) 873 4222) coach service (numbers 747 and 748) links the airport with the central bus station on Store Street and the two main railway stations, Connolly Station and Heuston Station, every 10 to 20 minutes daily 0545-2330 (journey time – 30 minutes). Tickets cost ¬5.00. The Aircoach (tel: (01) 844 7118; website: www.aircoach.ie) links Dublin Airport with the city centre (O’Connell Street) every 15 minutes daily 0445-2400 and every hour 0015-0445 (journey time – 30 minutes). Tickets cost ¬7 for a single, ¬12 return. The Aerdart Shuttle bus (tel: (01) 814 1062; website: www.aerdart.ie) connects Dublin Airport to Howth Junction DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) Station (see Public Transport section) Monday to Friday 0530-2340, Saturday and Sunday 0530-2030, thereby avoiding city-centre traffic (journey time – 20 minutes). Tickets cost approximately ¬4.30 (bus only) or ¬7 (bus and DART). All bus services depart from bus stops located immediately to the left after exiting the arrivals hall. Taxis are available and an average day fare into Dublin costs around ¬15.

Getting There By Water

Dublin has two main ports, with a series of harbours. Dublin Ferry Port (tel: (01) 855 2222) is on Alexandra Road in the east, while Dún Laoghaire Harbour, 15 Westmoreland Street (tel: (01) 204 7700; fax: (01) 204 7620), is located 14km (9 miles) south of the city. Dublin Port Authority, Alexandra Road (tel: (01) 887 6000; website: www.dublinport.ie), oversees these ports. Facilities at Dublin Ferry Port are limited to a coffee shop and bureau de change. Dún Laoghaire Harbour has several cafés, a tourist office, bureau de change, ATM, newsagent and gift shop.

Ferry services: Irish Ferries (tel: (0818) 300 400 or (01) 661 0715 (24-hour information line); e-mail: info@irishferries.com; website: www.irishferries.com) operates car and foot passenger ferry services six times a day to Dublin Port from Holyhead. Stena Line (tel: (01) 204 7777; website: www.stenaline.ie) also operates a car ferry service twice a day from Holyhead to Dublin Ferry Port and a high-speed car and foot passenger ferry service from Holyhead to Dún Laoghaire Harbour three times a day. The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company (tel: (0800) 805 055; website: www.steam-packet.com) operates car and foot-passenger Seacat ferries once a day in winter, twice in summer, from Liverpool to Dublin Port – and from the Isle of Man in summer.

Transport to the city: Bus 53 departs from Dublin Ferry Port daily 0730-1930 (journey time – 10 minutes). Buses 7, 7A and 46A run to the city centre every 10 to 15 minutes (less frequently on a Sunday) daily 0630-2300 (journey time – 10-15 minutes). There is a daily DART train 0600-2330 every half-hour (sometimes more frequently) from Dún Laoghaire Harbour (journey time – 25 minutes). Taxis run from both ports but are difficult to find after busy sailings.

Getting There By Road

Traffic drives on the left and signposts are usually bilingual. Motorways are marked ‘M’ with a corresponding number (such as M1 and M2), main roads and dual carriageways ‘N’ and minor roads ‘R’. On motorways a speed limit of 112kph (70mph) applies. The general speed limit is 96kph (60mph), which drops to 64kph (40mph) on approaches to urban areas and 48kph (30mph) in built-up areas. The alcohol-to-blood ratio for drivers is 0.08%.

The minimum driving age is 17 years. A valid national driving licence is required and a Green Card and Motor Insurance certificate are recommended. A country identification sticker is compulsory, as are seat belts in the front and, where fitted, in the rear of the car.

The Irish Visiting Motorists Bureau, Insurance House, 39 Molesworth Street (tel: (01) 676 9944), can provide further information. The Automobile Association of Ireland (tel: (01) 617 9999; website: www.aaireland.ie) provides information on reciprocal agreements with other motoring associations.

Emergency breakdown services:
Automobile Association Rescue (1800) 66 77 88

Routes to the city: Dublin can be approached via the N11 dual carriageway from Dún Laoghaire harbour, the N1 and the M1 motorway from Belfast, the N6 and N4 from Galway and the N8 and N7 from Cork.

Approximate driving times to Dublin: From Belfast – 2 hours 45 minutes; Galway – 3 hours 30 minutes; Cork – 4 hours 15 minutes.

Coach services: Bus Éireann, 16 Store Street (tel: (01) 836 6111; website: www.buseireann.ie), operates Ireland’s largest coach station, Busáras (Central Bus Station), Amiens Street, with routes nationwide and destinations including Cork, Galway and Limerick, as well as Belfast and Derry in Northern Ireland. Services are more frequent than those provided by the rail network. Facilities include restaurant, bureaux de change and left-luggage. Bus Éireann/Eurolines (tel: (01) 836 6111; website: www.eurolines.ie) has daily services to UK and European destinations, including Amsterdam, Blackpool, Glasgow, Edinburgh, London, Manchester and Paris.

Getting There By Rail

Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail) provides the national service (tel: (01) 836 6222 (passenger information, Monday to Friday 0830-1800, Saturday 0900-1800 and Sunday 1000-1800); website: www.irishrail.ie ). Services do not cover all parts of the country but are quite reliable. Dublin has two main stations: Connolly Station, on Amiens Street (tel: (01) 703 2358), in the centre, and Heuston Station, by the Quays (tel: (01) 703 2131). Both have bureaux de change, lockers, luggage minding, shops, bar and snack bars.

Rail services: Connolly Station serves Belfast (journey time – 2 hours), Rosslare (journey time – 3 hours 10 minutes) and Sligo (journey time – 3 hours); Heuston Station serves Galway (journey time – 2 hours 40 minutes), Tralee (journey time – 4 hours 30 minutes), Westport (journey time – 3 hours 20 minutes), Kildare (journey time – 30 minutes), Cork (journey time 2 hours 30 minutes), Kilkenny (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes), Waterford (journey time – 2 hours 40 minutes), Clonmel (journey time 4 hours) and Limerick (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes).

Transport to the city: Connolly is a five-minute walk from the city centre. Heuston is a 20-minute walk to the city centre but there are regular buses (journey time – 10 minutes).

Getting Around

Public Transport
Dublin’s public transport system is a bus and rail network, although a new network of 40 trams is currently being introduced by Luas Light Rail Lines (tel: (01) 646 3400; website: www.luas.ie), with two lines currently in operation.

Iarnród Éireann (see Getting There By Rail section) runs the clean and speedy electrical DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) rail services (tel: (01) 836 6222; website: www.irishrail.ie), which operate Monday to Saturday 0630-2400 and Sunday 0930-2300. Rail fares vary according to routes. The lowest DART fare is ¬1.30 and tickets are available for purchase from any DART station and at 35 Abbey Street Lower.

Bus Átha Cliath (Dublin Bus) runs the city bus services (tel: (01) 873 4222; website: www.dublinbus.ie), which operate daily 0600-2330, with a night bus service (Nitelink) running daily 0030-0430. Bus fares vary according to the number of stops: one to three stops cost ¬1.80, four to seven stops cost ¬2.60, eight to 13 stops cost ¬3, 14 stops and over cost ¬3.50 (concessions available). Nitelink tickets cost ¬4–¬6, depending on the destination. Drivers prefer exact change. Pre-paid tickets may also be purchased at the CIE Information desk at Dublin Airport, Dublin Bus Head Office or at bus ticket agencies.

Information on fares and timetables are provided at the Dublin Bus Information Office and Irish Rail, O’Connell Street, and Dublin Tourism Centre (see Tourist Information section).

Luas, the city’s new tramway system opened in the summer of 2004 and at present only has two routes to the suburbs (arranged into three zones) and is primarily used by commuters. Luas offers a range of ticket options ranging from a single trip, (costing ¬1.30-2 single or ¬2.50-3.80 return) to a 7-day pass (costing ¬10-16) and a 30-day pass (costing ¬40-60). There are also one-, seven- and 30-day combi-tickets for the Luas and Dublin Bus, covering all zones and costing ¬6, ¬23 and ¬85 respectively.

Various passes for bus, rail or both combined are available. There are one-, three-, five- and seven-day Rambler Tickets, costing ¬5, ¬10, ¬15 and ¬18 respectively, which offer unlimited travel for consecutive days on all Dublin Bus scheduled services, excluding the night buses. A weekly pass for the DART costs ¬23.80, or ¬28 including the use of buses, while a monthly pass costs ¬92, or ¬105 including buses. There is also an Adult Short Hop pass at ¬8.20, valid for unlimited travel for one day on all Dublin Bus, DART and suburban rail services, or a Family Short Hop pass, costing ¬12.50.

Taxis
Taxis (standard saloon cars) can be hailed on the street, hired at taxi ranks (O’Connell Street, Dame Street and St Stephen’s Green) or booked by telephone. Radio Link (tel: (01) 478 1111) is a reputable company. So is ACE Taxis (tel: (01) 478 3333). There is often a considerable waiting period for a taxi at peak times, especially Friday and Saturday nights. Taxis cost ¬2.75 for journeys under three minutes 20 seconds and an extra ¬0.15 for each additional 30 seconds (or each additional ninth of a mile). There is a ¬0.50 surcharge for each additional passenger or item of luggage and during unsociable hours. It is customary for passengers to tip the driver 10-15% of the fare.

Limousines
The Limousine Company (tel: (01) 843 9055; website: www.limousine.ie) specialises in corporate hire and offers the latest, conference-seated limousines from ¬124 for the first hour, and ¬65 per subsequent hour (for a minimum four-hour hire period). Eurolimo (tel: (087) 799 1259; website: www.eurolimos.ie) offers a range of limousine services from airport pick-ups to special occasions, with standard 8-seater cars costing ¬150 for the first hour, and ¬50 per subsequent hour.

Driving in the City
The volume of traffic in Dublin is increasing and parking is expensive and limited, although some hotels and guesthouses provide private parking for guests. Visitors should avoid driving during morning and late afternoon rush hours if possible. Drivers should keep out of bus lanes at all times, whether driving or parking. There are also numerous one-way systems in the centre, including the quays alongside the River Liffey (the south bank flows east to west and the north bank, west to east).
Street parking is limited in the city centre and official car parks are usually the best bet. The city’s main car parks, with various hourly rates, are Arnotts, Middle Abbey Street, on the Northside and Brown Thomas, Clarendon Street 2, on the Southside. Both are located in the middle of shopping districts. Expect to pay around ¬2.50-¬2.70 per hour. For street parking, kerbside pay-and-display meters are standard; the maximum time for parking is usually three hours. Parking prices on the city centre streets are ¬2.50 per hour Monday to Saturday 0800-1900. Sunday parking charges are ¬1.30 per hour between 1200 and 1800.

Clamping zones operate within the city centre and the recovery of a clamped vehicle will cost around ¬80. Recovery of clamped or towed-away vehicles is from Control Plus (tel: (01) 602 2500).

Car Hire
A full national driving licence and deposit are necessary for visitors to hire a car in Ireland; most firms require the driver to be over 23 and under 70 years old and to have held a full driving licence for a minimum of two years without endorsements.

Avis, 1 East Hanover Street (tel: (01) 605 7500; website: www.avis.com); Budget, 151 Drumcondra Road Lower (tel: (01) 837 9611; website: www.budget.com), and Europcar, Dublin Airport (tel: (01) 812 0410; website: www.europcar.ie), are among the main providers. Rates vary on a seasonal basis and start from around ¬200 per week upwards for the hire of a small car. Pre-booking is strongly recommended in summer and payment is usually only accepted by credit card.

Bicycle Hire
The best tracks are along Dublin Bay and across the Wicklow Mountains, as central Dublin is sadly lacking in cycle paths. Cycle Ways, 185-186 Parnell Street (tel: (01) 873 4748; fax: (01) 872 9462; e-mail: rentabike@cycleways.com; website: www.cycleways.com) offers a seasonal bicycle hire service for ¬20 per day (including insurance) or ¬80 per week. A deposit of at least ¬100 is usually required.

Business

Business Profile
The Irish ‘Celtic Tiger’ economy is currently booming and Dublin is at its heart. As the financial centre of Ireland, Dublin represents 32% of the national labour force and contributes 38% to the national GNP. The hub of the national transport system, with a strong educational and research infrastructure, the city looks well set to sustain its current economic boom, which started over a decade ago, when the ‘Celtic Tiger’ term was first coined. Employment growth in Dublin has strengthened in recent years, whilst average unemployment figures have steadily decreased and are among the lowest in Ireland.

The number of businesses in Dublin is in the region of 40,000, including over 800 overseas companies. Services account for 77% of all jobs in Dublin (61% on a national level). Dublin’s highest growth industry is tourism. Tourism numbers have been growing consistently each year, with figures more than doubled in the past decade. In 2001, 30% of Dublin’s overseas visitors travelled for business purposes. This figure is set to expand considerably after the completion of an international convention centre in the city’s re-emerging docklands area, once development plans are agreed upon. For the moment, the Royal Dublin Society (RDS), Merrion Road, Ballsbridge (tel: (01) 688 0866; fax: (01) 660 4014; e-mail: info@rds.ie; website: www.rds.ie), is one of the main conference venues.

Over the last few decades Dublin has established a reputation as Europe’s software capital; over 60% of business application software sold in Europe is manufactured in Ireland. Other significant market sectors include the food industry (including Cadbury’s and Guinness), electronics (with US firms accounting for 82% of total employment), pharmaceuticals and chemicals, teleservices and retail.

Dublin is home to the Irish Stock Exchange and the headquarters of the Bank of Ireland, Central Bank and AIB. The International Financial Services Centre (IFSC) is an integral part of Dublin’s economy, attracting such leading national and international institutions as NatWest, National Irish Bank, Citibank and Ulster Bank to set up branches here. The IFSC is located in the old Custom House Docks area, while the traditional business district is in the Dublin 2 area.

The Dublin Chamber of Commerce is located at 7 Clare Street (tel: (01) 644 7200; fax: (01) 676 6043; e-mail: info@dubchamber.ie; website: www.dubchamber.ie), while the Industrial Development Agency (IDA) in Dublin is located at Wilton Park House, Wilton Place (tel: (01) 603 4000; fax: (01) 603 4040; e-mail: idaireland@ida.ie; website: www.idaireland.com).

Business Etiquette
Business meetings are easily fixed but this does not mean that the deal is done. Small talk leading to trust is an important element so plenty of time should be allowed to complete a deal. Due to traffic congestion during rush hour, breakfast meetings are growing in popularity. Lunch meetings are frequent, although meeting in a pub or bar (from around 1730 onwards) for a few beers and/or for dinner (at around 2000) is also common. Office hours are generally Monday to Friday 0900-1700 or 1800.

Business style is informal; first names are used and although suits are worn, jackets may be taken off. Above all, visitors should avoid treating their Irish hosts as anything other than the modern Europeans that they are. Dublin wit is fast flowing and engaging and is evident in most business situations. Discussion of Irish political issues is best avoided.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Dublin might not be one of Europe’s most visually stunning cities, but what it lacks in aesthetics it more than makes up for with its many attractions. Most of the sights are located south of the River Liffey, in a district of gracious Georgian mansions and leafy avenues around Grafton Street and elegant St Stephen’s Green. The main landmarks here include Trinity College, the National Museum, Leinster House (the home of the Irish Parliament) and the National Gallery of Ireland.

Nearby, The Temple Bar district, once the site of Viking Dublin, has recently reinvented itself. After its promising 1980s resurrection, Temple Bar suffered under the weight of countless British stag and hen nights, scaring off locals and tourists alike. The tourist board and local publicans have since worked hard to deter the worst ravages of the pre-nuptial hordes.

West of Temple Bar, the historic cathedrals, Christ Church and St Patrick’s (both vestiges of Anglo-Norman Dublin) are architecturally impressive. The Norman city walls are on view from neighbouring Cook Street. Dublin Castle, the symbol of the Anglo-Irish Ascendancy, stands proud on Dame Street.

The district of the Liberties lies to the west of St Patrick’s Cathedral and is home to the Guinness Storehouse and brewery, The Irish Museum of Modern Art and Kilmainham Gaol – now a museum recounting the struggle for independence.

The city is bisected by the River Liffey, which flows west to east and is crossed by a number of bridges. These include the famous Ha’Penny Bridge and its newest neighbour, the Millennium Bridge, which joins Ormond Quay Lower on the north bank of the Liffey with Wellington Quay on the south bank.

North of the River Liffey the crowds of tourists dissipate in a rougher, grittier area, which Roddy Doyle generously summed up as having more ‘soul’ than sights. It contains the General Post Office (GPO), which has a façade pitted with gunfire from the Easter Rising of April 1916; the Dublin Writers Museum, The James Joyce Centre and the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art. The Custom House and Four Courts rival the Georgian mansions of the south in grandeur, although the Georgian architecture of Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square and St Stephen’s Green is well worth admiring. Other noteworthy sights include Phoenix Park to the west, Collin’s Barracks and the sights located along the Grand Canal (the Shaw Birthplace, Irish Jewish Museum and National Print Museum), which loops around the south of the centre.

Tourist Information
Dublin Tourism Centre
Suffolk Street
Tel: (01) 605 7700. Fax: (01) 605 7757.
E-mail: information@dublintourism.ie
Website: www.visitdublin.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 1030-1500 (Jul-Aug); Mon-Sat 0900-1730 (Sep-Jun); all bank holidays 1030-1500.

There are additional tourist information offices located at Dublin Airport, Baggot Street Bridge, Dún Laoghaire Harbour and 14 Upper O’Connell Street.

Passes
The Dublin Pass provides free entry to over 30 attractions, a 90-page comprehensive guidebook and many special shopping, service and restaurant offers in one complete package, including transport from Dublin airport. It is available as a one-, two-, three- or six-day pass and costs ¬29, ¬49, ¬59 and ¬89 respectively.

Key Attractions

Trinity College
Visitors can drift through the college among the numerous artistic ghosts in one of the world’s most famous centres of learning. Jonathan Swift, Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett and many other seminal thinkers and writers studied at Ireland’s oldest university, which was founded in 1592. With its cobbled squares, gardens and grand buildings, Trinity College retains an aura of peace, despite its central location. Its main attraction is the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript dating from around AD800, which is displayed in the magnificent Old Library.

College Street
Tel: (01) 608 2320. Fax: (01) 608 2690.
Website: www.tcd.ie
Transport: All cross-city buses; DART to Tara Street Station.
Opening hours Old Library/Book of Kells: Mon-Sat 0930-1700, Sun 0930-1630 (Jun-Sep); Mon-Sat 0930-1700, Sun 1200-1630 (Oct-May).
Admission: Old Library/Book of Kells: ¬7.50; concessions available.

National Museum of Ireland
Among this rich collection of Irish antiquities, dating from 7000BC to the modern day, are the eighth-century Ardagh Chalice and Tara Brooch and the 12th-century Cross of Cong. Ór (Ireland’s gold) features the finest collection of prehistoric gold artefacts in Europe. There are also major exhibitions on prehistoric Ireland, Viking Ireland, medieval Ireland and Irish history (‘The Road to Independence’) from 1900 to 1921.

Kildare Street
Tel: (01) 677 7444. Fax: (01) 677 7450.
Website: www.museum.ie
Transport: Bus 7, 7A, 8, 10, 11 or 13; DART to Pearse Station.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700.
Admission: Free.

National Gallery of Ireland
This impressive collection incorporates some 2,500 paintings, as well as watercolours, drawings, prints and sculpture. Although Irish painting holds pride of place, all major European schools of painting are well represented. A major renovation of the museum was completed in 1996 and the new Millennium Wing opened early in 2002 - an award-winning modern architectural masterpiece showcasing Irish art in the first half of the 20th century, a sculpture gallery and temporary exhibitions.

Merrion Square West & Clare Street
Tel: (01) 661 5133. Fax: (01) 661 5372.
E-mail: info@ngi.ie
Website: www.nationalgallery.ie
Transport: Bus 5, 7, 7A, 10, 44 or 48; DART to Pearse Station.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1730 (until 2030 Thurs), Sun 1200-1730.
Admission: Free; separate admission charge for temporary exhibitions in the Millennium Wing.

Christ Church Cathedral
Richard de Clare ‘Strongbow’ (the Earl of Pembroke) founded Christ Church Cathedral on the site of a Viking church in 1172. Highlights include the ‘leaning wall of Dublin’, the north nave wall, which has leaned 46cm (18 inches) since 1562 (when the roof collapsed), a mummified cat and mouse found in an organ pipe, the heart of St Laurence, the patron saint of Dublin, and a large crypt full of unusual relics.

Christchurch Place
Tel: (01) 677 8099. Fax: (01) 679 8991.
E-mail: welcome@cccdub.ie
Website: www.cccdub.ie
Transport: Bus 50 or 78.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0945-1630, Sat and Sun 1000-1630 (cathedral); Mon-Fri 0945-1700, Sat 1000-1645, Sun 1230-1515 (treasury).
Admission: ¬5 (this includes entry to the Treasury exhibition); concessions available.

Dublin Writers Museum
First editions, letters, portraits and memorabilia of Swift, Sheridan, Shaw, Wilde, Yeats, Joyce, Beckett and Behan fill this fascinating museum, set in a spectacular Georgian mansion. There is also a room devoted to children’s literature.

18-19 Parnell Square North
Tel: (01) 872 2077. Fax: (01) 872 2231.
E-mail: writers@dublintourism.ie
Website: www.writersmuseum.com
Transport: Bus 10, 11, 11B, 13, 13A, 16, 16A, 19 or 19A; DART to Connolly Station.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700 (Sep-May); Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700 (Jun-Aug).
Admission: ¬6.50; concessions available.

Dublin Castle
Dating from Norman times, the palatial Dublin Castle was originally built on the orders of King John, in 1204. The largest visible remaining fragment of the original 13th-century castle is the Record Tower. It stands beside the 19th-century Gothic revival Chapel Royal. Recently uncovered excavations of Viking fortifications can be viewed at the Undercroft. Most of the castle was largely rebuilt in the 18th century, including the gilded State Apartments – once the residence of English viceroys. Admission is by guided tour only. Tours run every 20 minutes. Large groups need to book in advance.

Dame Street
Tel: (01) 677 7129. Fax: (01) 679 7831.
E-mail: info@dublincastle.ie
Website: www.dublincastle.ie
Transport: Bus 49, 56A, 77, 77A or 123.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1400-1700.
Admission: ¬4.50; concessions available.

Further Distractions

Phoenix Park
Europe’s biggest city park boasts more than 707 hectares (1,752 acres) of wilderness and landscaped gardens. Phoenix Park, Dublin’s most famed park, is located on the western edge of the city and originally served as a royal deer park in the 17th century. Today, the Irish president and the US ambassador to Ireland have residences within it. Dubliners enjoy its 12 hectares (30 acres) of landscaped gardens with ornamental lakes, nature trails and grassland. The old duelling ground, Fifteen Acres, is now a popular venue for casual sports while Nine Acres is home to the Irish Polo Club. The park also houses Dublin Zoo – home to over 700 animals and tropical birds and Ireland’s top fee-paying visitor attraction.

Dublin Zoo
Phoenix Park
Tel: (01) 474 8900. Fax: (01) 677 1660.
E-mail: info@dublinzoo.ie
Website: www.dublinzoo.ie
Transport: Bus 10, 25 and 26.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (Phoenix Park); Mon-Sat 0930-1800, Sun 1030-1800 (Mar-Sep); Mon-Sat 0930-dusk, Sun 1030-dusk (Oct-Feb) (Zoo).
Admission: ¬13; concessions available.

Guinness Storehouse
The world’s largest single beer-exporting company began in 1759, when Arthur Guinness brewed the first Guinness. The brewery itself is not open to visitors but a visit to this state-of-the-art museum, housed in a converted warehouse and shaped like a mighty pint glass, tells the visitor everything they ever wanted to know about the famous stout. The tour culminates, of course, with a free pint of the legendary black stuff.

St James’s Gate
Tel: (01) 408 4800. Fax: (01) 408 4965.
E-mail: guinness-storehouse@guinness.com
Website: www.guinness-storehouse.com
Transport: Bus 51B, 78A or 123.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (until 2000 in July and Aug).
Admission: ¬14; concessions available.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Dublin Tourism has published a Ulysses Map of Dublin (¬1.30), for those who wish to conduct a self-guided walk in the footsteps of Joyce’s famous character, Leopold Bloom.

Discover Dublin Tours, 20 Stephen Street Lower (tel: (01) 478 0193; website: www.musicalpubcrawl.com), organises a two-and-a-half-hour musical pub-crawl in the Temple Bar area for ¬10. Tickets are available on the night and also from the Dublin Tourism Centre on Suffolk Street. The tour commences upstairs in Oliver St John Gogarty’s (corner of Fleet Street and Anglesea Street) and operates nightly at 1930 from May to October; Fridays and Saturdays only in November, February, March and April.

The Dublin Literary Pub Crawl (tel: (01) 670 5602; e-mail: info@dublinpubcrawl.com; website: www.dublinpubcrawl.com) is a two-hour tour featuring poetry recitals and singing, as well as visiting Dublin’s famed pubs that have literary connections. Tours cost ¬10 (concessions available), commencing upstairs at the Duke Pub, 9 Duke Street, Monday to Saturday at 1930 from April to November (tickets on sale from 1900); also Sundays at 1200. From December to March, tours operate Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 1930 and Sundays at 1200 and 1930.

Historical Walking Tours of Dublin (tel: (01) 878 0227; e-mail: tours@historicalinsights.ie; website: www.historicalinsights.ie), led by Trinity College history students, provide insights into the cultural, religious and political history of Dublin, with such themes as ‘A Terrible Beauty - The Birth of the Irish State 1916-1923’ and ‘Unmanageable Revolutionaries – Women in Irish History. Walks start from the front gate of Trinity College, May to August daily at 1100, 1200 and 1500, and Friday to Sundays at noon from October to April. They cost ¬10 and last 2.5 hours.

Bus Tours
Two bus companies – Guide Friday (tel: (01) 605 7705; website: www.irishcitytours.com) and Dublin Bus (tel: (01) 873 4222; website: www.dublinbus.ie) offer hop-on, hop-off bus tours covering all the major sights of the city centre, with running commentary from a tour guide. A day ticket costs ¬14 and tours commence approximately every 15 minutes from O’Connell Street.

Other Tours
Guided tours by horse and cart can be picked up at St Stephen’s Green during the summer months. The duration and price (usually between ¬15 and ¬50) should be negotiated with the driver before setting off.

Excursions

For a Half Day

The James Joyce Museum: The Martello Tower, located 14km (9miles) south of Dublin, which was originally built to guard against invasion from Napoleon, is nevertheless an appropriate venue for the James Joyce Museum (tel: (01) 280 9265). It was here that Oliver St John Gogarty invited Joyce to stay and the Tower overlooking the ‘snotgreen sea’ became the setting for the opening chapter of Ulysses (1922), while Gogarty was transformed into the fictional character Buck Mulligan. The Tower houses a collection that includes the artist’s letters, photographs, guitar, walking stick and a copy of Ulysses illustrated by Matisse. The opening hours are Monday to Saturday 1000-1300 and 1400-1700, and Sunday 1400-1800 May-October and admission costs ¬6.50 (concessions available). The Tower is easily accessed by DART to Sandycove (a scenic trip) or bus 59 from Dun Laoghaire.

For a Whole Day

Glendalough: This early Celtic monastery (tel: (0404) 45325), once an important seat of Christian learning, is situated 30km (19 miles) south of Dublin, between Laragh and Hollywood. Its Gaelic name means ‘valley of the two lakes’ and there are some breathtaking walks around the monastery and on the lakeshore. St Kevin founded the monastery in the sixth century and his body lies in the ninth-century cathedral; the site is adorned with St Kevin’s Cross, carved in about 1150. Nearby are the remains of St Kevin’s Kitchen – a thousand-year-old church. The opening hours are daily 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar) and 0930-1800 (Apr-Sep) and admission to the visitor centre costs ¬2.75 (concessions available). The site is best reached by car. Alternatively, the St Kevin’s Bus Service departs from St Stephen’s Green daily at 1130, with a return service late afternoon. Its route along the Wicklow Way, through the valleys of the Wicklow Mountains, makes for an idyllic journey.

Sport

Both hurling (the Irish national game, similar to hockey and one of the fastest field games in the world) and Gaelic football (a cross between soccer, rugby and a street brawl) are played at Croke Park Stadium, Croke Park, Dublin 3 (tel: (01) 819 2300; website: www.crokepark.ie). The Gaelic Athletic Association (website: www.gaa.ie) can provide information on both sports.

Rugby is played at Lansdowne Road Stadium, Lansdowne Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel: (01) 647 3800; website: www.irishrugby.ie), with Lansdowne FC (website: www.lansdownerugby.com) and St Mary’s College (website: www.stmaryscollegerfc.com) both consistently doing well in the AIB All Ireland League Division One tables. Soccer takes place at Tolka Park, Richmond Road, Dublin 3 (tel: (01) 837 5536) or Lansdowne Road. Dublin has many teams in the National League Premier Division, including Bohemians FC (website: www.bohemians.ie), Shamrock Rovers FC (website: www.shamrockrovers.ie), Shelbourne FC (website: www.shelbournefc.ie), St Patrick’s Athletic FC (website: www.stpatsfc.com) and UCD FC Dublin (website: www.ucd.ie/soccer).

Race meetings are held at Fairyhouse, Ratoath, off the R155 (tel: (01) 825 6167; website: www.fairyhouseracecourse.ie), and Leopardstown Racecourse, Leopardstown, Dublin 18 (tel: (01) 289 0500; website: www.leopardstown.com). Phoenix Park, Parkgate Street, Conyngham Road, Dublin 8 (tel: (01) 677 0095), contains a racecourse, a motor-racing circuit and is also a popular venue for Gaelic football, cricket, soccer and water polo. Greyhound racing at Shelbourne Park, Pearse Street, Dublin 4 (tel: (01) 668 3502; e-mail: racing@shelbournepark.ie; website: www.shelbournepark.com) is a local passion.

The main events in the sporting calendar are the Dublin Horse Show (Aug) and the national hurling and Gaelic football finals (Sep), during which the whole city goes a little crazy. Tickets are available from Ticketmaster (tel: (0818) 71 93 00; website: www.ticketmaster.ie).

Fitness Centres: Crunch Fitness, at UCD, Belfield (tel: (01) 260 3155), is open to the public Mon-Fri 0700-2200 and Sat-Sun 1000-1730 and charges ¬12 per visit. Olympus Health and Leisure Club is open to the public Mon-Fri 1000-2100, Sat 1000-2000, Sun 0930-1230, and charges ¬8 for women and ¬10 for men per visit.

Golf: Within 30 miles of Dublin, there are over 100 golf courses. Most are private but some are pay-and-play courses. Sillogue Park Public Golf Course, Ballymun (tel: (01) 842 9956), is one of the best value, with green fees starting from ¬8 for nine holes (¬16 at the weekend, ¬18 in summer) and ¬11 for 18 holes (¬21 at the weekend, ¬25 in summer). Prices vary depending on the time of day. Pre-booking is advisable. The 18-hole course at Luttrellstown Castle Golf Club, Clonsilla (tel: (01) 808 9988; fax: (01) 808 9989; e-mail: golf@luttrellstown.ie; website: www.luttrellstown.ie), is also open to the public. Green fees are greatly reduced at present, at just ¬20 for 11 holes, while essential maintenance work is completed on the rest of the course.

Squash: Most squash clubs are open to members only. Total Fitness, Blackglen Road, Sandyford (tel: (01) 206 9600; website: www.totalfitness.org), charges ¬5 per 40 minutes for non-members, together with a ¬17 day-membership fee which enables use of the pools, gym and other facilities. Irish Squash (tel: (01) 625 1145; website: www.irishsquash.com) can provide more information.

Swimming: Most pools are situated in Dublin’s suburbs. St Paul’s College Swimming Pool, Rahen (tel: (01) 831 6283), is located north of the centre and costs ¬5.30. A full list of swimming pools is supplied in the Golden Pages telephone directory (website: www.goldenpages.ie).

Tennis: Apart from various parks with tennis courts, Spawell, Wellington Road, Templeogue (tel: (01) 490 4401), is one of the few venues with courts that are open to the public. Play costs ¬10 an hour. Tennis Ireland (tel: (01) 884 4010; website: www.tennisireland.ie) can provide further information.

Shopping

Like the city itself, Dublin’s shopping scene is dominated by the fusion of old and new. There is nowhere more traditional than the Moore Street Market, on Henry Street (off O’Connell Street), where fresh fruit and vegetables are sold at bargain prices Monday to Saturday 0900-1800. The Temple Bar Food Market, in Meeting House Square, on Saturday mornings displays more pricey organic produce.

South of the River Liffey is the smart Grafton Street shopping precinct with upmarket department store Brown Thomas and one of Dublin’s finest shopping centres, The Powerscourt Town House. The Design Centre on the top floor of the Powerscourt Town House shopping centre deals exclusively in Irish designer fashions. Nassau Street, off Grafton Street, is best for traditional Irish gifts, such as hand-blown glass, crafts, knits, Celtic jewellery and Arran sweaters; the Kilkenny Design Centre, 6 Nassau Street, and the Blarney Woollen Mills, 21-23 Nassau Street, are also good bets. For cool club clobber, head to BT2, Grafton Street.

Good bookshops include Eason’s, 1 Dawson Street, Fred Hanna’s, 29 Nassau Street, Greene’s, 16 Clare Street (second-hand and rare editions), and Books Upstairs, 36 College Green (Irish, gay and lesbian). Winding Stair, 40 Ormond Quay Lower, is best for bargain books.

Dublin’s fashionable Temple Bar district has good, one-off shops, such as Whichcraft, Cow’s Lane, a showcase of innovative Irish jewellery, interior design and decorative arts, while the antiques quarter, centred round Francis Street, is particularly lively on a Saturday morning.

Standard shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1700/1800. Late-night shopping is on Thursday, with the bigger stores and many of the smaller ones remaining open until approximately 2000. Many bookshops keep longer hours and some also open on Sunday afternoon.

VAT is levied at different rates on goods and services, with an average rate of 21%. Tax-free shopping is available to non-EU residents, who can redeem the tax at the airport on production of a completed tax-free slip. Global Refund (tel: (091) 553 258; fax: (091) 553 403; e-mail: info@globalrefund.ie; website: www.globalrefund.ie) can provide further information.

Culture

Dublin’s rich literary culture has led to a flourishing film industry and varied theatre repertoire of Irish classical and contemporary works. The Temple Bar district is the main cultural centre. The annual highlights are the Dublin Theatre Festival in late September/early October and Dublin Film Festival in March. In between, there is a richly varied programme for one to choose from.

Most tickets can be purchased on the night, costing anything from ¬5 to ¬70 (for the best seats at the opera). Tickets are also available at outlets of HMV stores, in Henry Street and Grafton Street, from Dublin Tourism, Suffolk Street (bookings in person only), or from Ticketmaster (tel: (0818) 71 93 00; website: www.ticketmaster.ie).

There is a very good website for events throughout Ireland (website: www.entertainment.ie). The fortnightly magazine In Dublin is good for Dublin events listings. Dublin Tourism (website: www.visitdublin.com) also has online events listings that are updated daily.

Music: Opera Ireland (tel: (01) 478 6041; website: www.operaireland.com) and the innovative Opera Theatre Company (tel: (01) 679 4962; website: www.opera.ie) perform regularly at a variety of venues, including the Gaiety Theatre (see Theatre section below) and Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane, Charlemont House, Parnell Square North (tel: (01) 222 5550; website: www.hughlane.ie). However, the main classical music venue is the National Concert Hall, Earlsfort Terrace (tel: (01) 417 0000; website: www.nch.ie), which is home to the National Symphony Orchestra.

The largest concerts (classical and popular) take place at The Point, East Link Bridge (tel: (01) 836 3633; website: www.thepoint.ie). This is a thriving venue, where Riverdance, classical music and ballet performances are held, as well as major pop performances. The RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Concert Hall, Merrion Road, Ballsbridge (tel: (01) 668 0866; website: www.rds.ie), caters for both large pop/rock events and smaller classical concerts.

Theatre: Ireland’s national theatre, The Abbey Theatre, is located in Abbey Street (tel: (01) 878 7222; website: www.abbeytheatre.ie). Set up by W B Yeats in 1904, it is a historic and reliable venue for high-quality Irish drama. The Peacock Theatre, in the same building as the Abbey, has a more experimental repertoire. Orson Welles and James Mason began their acting careers at The Gate Theatre, 1 Cavendish Row (tel: (01) 874 4085; website: www.gate-theatre.ie), which is still going strong. The city’s first music hall, The Olympia Theatre, 72 Dame Street (tel: (01) 679 3323), and Gaiety Theatre, South King Street (tel: (01) 677 1717; website: www.gaietytheatre.com), put on anything from the Irish classics to pantomime. The Projects Arts Centre, 39 East Essex Street, in Temple Bar (tel: (01) 881 9613; website: www.project.ie), offers a varied programme of poetry readings, drama and dance.

Dance: Dublin’s dance groups include CoisCéim Dance Theatre, 14 Sackville Place (tel: (01) 878 0558; website: www.coisceim.com), Rubato Ballet, 19 Stamer Street (tel: (01) 453 8657; website: www.iol.ie/~rubato), and Irish Modern Dance Theatre (tel: (01) 874 9616), who perform a potent mix of poetry, music and drama at Dublin’s various theatres. The Association of Professional Dancers, Space 28, North Lotts (tel: (01) 873 0288; website: www.prodanceireland.com), provides information on performances and festivals, including Riverdance (website: www.riverdance.com). Anyone can join in traditional Irish dancing after a pint or two at the O’Shea’s Merchant Pub, 12 Bridge Street Lower (tel: (01) 679 3797).

Film: Dublin’s first public screening took place on 20 April 1896 and James Joyce opened the first cinema, Volta, in 1909. At the end of the 20th century, Irish film culture enjoyed a Golden Age, with Dublin at the forefront. John Houston lovingly adapted a short story from James Joyce’s Dubliners into his final film, The Dead (1987). Two years later, Jim Sheridan’s film adaptation of Dublin writer-artist Christy Brown in My Left Foot (1989) won international acclaim and an Oscar for Daniel Day-Lewis. Educating Rita (1983), Michael Collins (1996) and The General (1999) are among the best-known recent films to have captured Dublin on celluloid, together with Alan Parker’s The Commitments (1991), telling Roddy Doyle’s story of gritty young Dubliners to audiences worldwide. As for Roddy Doyle, he has his own production company: Deadly Films.

Art films are shown at the Irish Film Institute, 6 Eustace Street (tel: (01) 679 5744; website: www.fii.ie), and the Screen, D’Olier Street (tel: (01) 672 5500). Mainstream cinemas include the Savoy, 16-17 O’Connell Street Upper (tel: (01) 874 6000), and the vast UGC Multiplex, Parnell Street (tel: (01) 872 8444). The Irish Times, Evening Herald and Irish Film Centre publish cinema listings.

Cultural Events: The main cultural event is St Patrick’s Day, on 17 March, when the entire city comes to a standstill for the year’s greatest celebration of Ireland and all things Irish. During summer, the first two weeks of June see in the AIB Music Festival, with top-class chamber music coming to various Georgian houses throughout the city. Bloomsday, 16 June, is the major literary event of the year, as the seminal works of James Joyce are celebrated on the anniversary of the day that Joyce’s protagonist, Leopold Bloom, took his fictional walk around the city. The first two weeks of October see yet another cultural highlight in the form of the Dublin Theatre Festival, which takes place at various venues around the city.

Literary Notes: Dublin’s literary history dates back at least to around AD800, with the Book of Kells. The real Dublin heavyweights, however, date from the 19th and 20th centuries. In the 19th century, Dublin-born Bram Stoker wrote Dracula (1897). Vampire lovers will enjoy a visit to St Michan’s Church, to see his family crypt. Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw and, most of all, James Joyce, later took up the mantle for European, not just Irish, literature. James Joyce’s difficult Ulysses (1922) is considered by many literary critics to be the finest novel ever written. The Nobel Prize for literature was won by W B Yeats in 1923, by George Bernard Shaw, author of Pygmalion (1916), in 1925, and by Samuel Beckett in 1969. The McDaid’s pub on Harry Street inspired famed writer and drinker Brendan Behan, author of The Borstal Boy (1958) and The Hostage (1965). Contemporary writers include Christy Brown, author of My Left Foot (1989), Maeve Binchy, with numerous bestsellers, including The Lilac Bus (1992) and Circle of Friends (1991), and Roddy Doyle, whose novel Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha won the Booker Prize in 1993.

Nightlife

The nightlife scene in Dublin has changed beyond all recognition in the last few years. Alongside the traditional Irish pubs sit stylish bars and buzzing pre-club haunts. The trendy Temple Bar area is the district most associated with the city’s best nightlife hotspots and vibe. Pubs are generally open Monday to Saturday 1100-2330 and Sunday 1200/1600-2300, although some serve until 0200. In some parts of the city, the 2330 weekday and 2400 weekend closing times are enforced by patrolling ‘Gardai’. Bars close between 2330 and 0100, while clubs stay open until the early hours. The minimum drinking age is 18 years and the price of a pint in a city pub is typically ¬3.80-4.50. On 1 January 2004, new anti-smoking laws, swiftly proposed and passed by the Irish Minister for Health in March 2003, came into effect, banning smoking in any pubs, bars and nightclubs. There is no dress code as such for pubs in Dublin – it depends on the particular establishment in question. Some venues encourage neat dress while casual dress is commonplace in others.

Totally Dublin, the free events guide available in cafés and bars throughout the city, and In Dublin (website: www.indublin.ie), the free weekly magazine, are both useful guides featuring bar, restaurant and club reviews.

Bars: Dublin’s watering holes fall into two camps – the traditional drinking haunts and the designer bars for bright young things. Hip bars include Pravda, 2-3 Liffey Street Lower, Zanzibar, 34-35 Ormond Quay Lower, Samsara, Dawson Street, and the minimalist 4 Dame Lane, 4 Dame Lane. For a more traditional pub crawl, head to Temple Bar, where the Palace Bar, 21 Fleet Street, The Temple Bar, 48 South Temple Lane, and Oliver St John Gogarty, 58-59 Fleet Street, are all to be found. On Merrion Row and Baggot Street, there are pubs like Toner’s, 139 Baggot Street Lower, O’Donoghue’s, 15 Merrion Row, and Doheny & Nesbitt, 5 Baggot Street Lower, where literary ghosts have taken up permanent residence. The Dawson Lounge, 25 Dawson Street, is the smallest pub in Dublin, with room for about six people in the basement. The George, 89 South Great George’s Street, is one of Dublin’s most popular gay bars.

Casinos: These are limited to private clubs that are not open to non-members. Ireland is somewhat anti gambling and no public casinos exist.

Clubs: Once a clubbing wasteland, Dublin’s reputation for top-rack nightclubs is growing year on year. PoD (Place of Dance), Harcourt Street (website: www.pod.ie), retains its popularity and has won awards for its outlandish décor, while the new Spirit nightclub, 57 Abbey Street Middle (website: www.spiritdublin.com), provides competition north of the Liffey. The exclusive Lillie’s Bordello, Adam Court, Grafton Street, is where all visiting pop stars, actors and celebrities hang out for after-show parties. Ri Ra, Dame Court, combines a chilled bar with a hip club. D2 (formerly known as Velvet), Harcourt Street (open Thursday, Friday and Saturday), was the first club in Dublin to latch on to UK Speed Garage. In addition to Dublin’s clubs, most live music venues (see below) host club nights after gigs.

Comedy: Dubliners are celebrated for their gift of the gab and their wit. Top comedy venues for local and international stand-up talent include pubs such as the International Bar, 23 Wicklow Street, on Thursday nights, and the Ha’penny Bridge Inn, 42 Wellington Quay (website: www.battleoftheaxe.com), on Tuesday nights, which has hosted such noted acts as the late Dermot Morgan of Father Ted fame.

Live Music: Eclectic is the key word for Dublin’s music scene, with most venues playing something of everything, from jazz, blues and soul to rock and pop, English folk and Irish traditional (known as ‘trad’). Trad is played in countless pubs, often in free impromptu ‘sessions’. Larger venues or venues hosting high-profile performers could charge on the night or tickets may be bought in advance.

The Temple Bar Music Centre, Curved Street, Temple Bar (website: www.tbmc.ie), is a great venue for spotting new talent. Vicar Street, 58-59 Thomas Street (website: www.vicarstreet.com) also hosts a variety of trendy local rock acts and has a small, intimate feel to it. The largest concerts (rock and pop) take place at The Point, East Link Bridge (website: www.thepoint.ie), where Oasis, U2, Westlife, All Saints, Manic Street Preachers and Fatboy Slim are some of the big names that have performed there over the last few years. The RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Concert Hall, Merrion Road, Ballsbridge (website: www.rds.ie), also caters for both large pop/rock events.

Olympia Theatre, 72 Dame Street, is one of the best venues for broad-ranging styles in a large and lovely three-floor venue, for early evening and post-midnight gigs. On a smaller scale, the 18th-century pub Whelan’s, 25 Wexford Street (website: www.whelanslive.com), is a hugely popular and innovative live venue, providing a platform for up and coming bands. Jazz can be heard regularly at the Viperoom, 5 Aston Quay, while long-established Slattery’s, 129 Capel Street, offers a wide assortment of music from rock and jazz to traditional Irish. Other popular traditional venues include pubs O’Shea’s Merchant, 12 Bridge Street Lower (website: www.osheashotel.com), and O’Donoghue’s, 15 Merrion Row (website: www.odonoghues.ie).

City Statistics

Location: Province of Leinster, Ireland.
Country dialling code: 353.
Population: 495,781 (city); 1,122,821 (metropolitan area).
Religion: 91.6% Catholic, 2.5% Church of Ireland, 5.9% small congregations of Presbyterians, Protestants, Methodists, Jews and other denominations.
Ethnic mix: Majority Irish, with largest minority Chinese, followed by Russian, other minorities include Nigerian and Romanian.
Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 240 volts AC, 50Hz; English-style, square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 5°C (41°F).
Average July temp: 17°C (63°F).
Annual rainfall: 73mm (28.5 inches).

Special Events

New Year’s Day, 1 Jan, throughout the city
National Book Fair, late Jan, Royal Dublin Society
Six Nations Rugby Tournament, Feb-Apr, Lansdowne Road Stadium
Hennessy Cognac Gold Cup Chase, Feb, Leopardstown Racecourse
Jameson Dublin International Film Festival, Feb, various venues including the Savoy, the IFC and the Screen
St Patrick’s Day Parade, parades, fireworks, carnival, ceilidh dancing, 17 Mar, throughout the city
Feis Ceoil, classical music festival, Mar-Apr, 37 Molesworth Street, Temple Bar
Colours Boat Race, rowing race, first weekend Apr, River Liffey between Trinity College and University College Dublin
Heineken Green Energy Music Festival, May/June, outdoor concerts at Dublin Castle and smaller indoor gigs at various other venues
Dublin Garden Festival, late May/early Jun, RDS, Ballsbridge
Bloomsday Festival, a walk around the city in celebration of the life of James Joyce as part of the annual Dublin Writers’ Festival, 16 Jun, walk starts at the James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great George’s Street
AIB Music Festival, chamber music festival, first two weeks Jun, Georgian houses throughout the city
Dublin International Organ and Choral Festival, Jun, Christchurch Cathedral, City Hall, National Concert Hall and various churches
Music in the Park, series of lunchtime concerts, Jun-Aug, various city parks
Temple Bar Blues Fleadh, live blues festival, third weekend Jul, various venues in Temple Bar
Dublin Horse Show, Aug, Royal Dublin Society
The Liffey Swim, Sep, River Liffey
All Ireland Hurling Festival, second Sun in Sep, Croke Park
All Ireland Gaelic Football Final, fourth Sun in Sep, Croke Park
Dublin Jazz Festival, mid-Sep, various venues
Irish Antique Dealers Fair, Sep-Oct, Royal Dublin Society
Dublin Fringe Festival, annual festival celebrating both Irish and world theatre, as well as dance and comedy, Sep-Oct, various venues
Dublin Theatre Festival, Sep-Oct, various venues
Samhain Halloween Festival, 31 Oct, throughout the city
Dublin City Marathon, Oct, starts Leinster Street South and finishes at Merrion Street West
National Crafts Fair of Ireland, mid-Dec, Royal Dublin Society
Leopardstown Races, annual horseracing event, end of Dec, Leopardstown

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬1.30
33cl bottle of beer: ¬2
Financial Times newspaper: ¬1.60
36-exposure colour film: ¬5-8
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.80-¬2.60
Adult football ticket: ¬20-60
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬30-60

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005