World City Guide

The origin of the name ‘Edinburgh’ may be uncertain, but whether it is a corruption of Edwin’s Burgh or from the Gaelic ‘din Eidyn’ (meaning ‘Eidyn’s Hill Fort’), what is clear is that these days the Scottish capital is a city on an inexorable rise. The ‘Festival City’ buzzes with life year round, whether it be the fireworks and stranger hugging frenzy of the world famous New Year ‘Hogmanay’ street party or the flurry of arts extravaganzas that burst through the cobbled streets of the old and new towns during the ‘Edinburgh Festival’ in August. Backing up this confident bohemian face is one of Europe’s most well-established and dynamic financial centres. Edinburgh is one of the longest continuously inhabited places in northern Europe, and its current renaissance can be traced back as recently as 1999, when the Scottish parliament convened for the first time in 300 years in the city. Throw in the worldwide exposure of the MTV Awards in 2003 and the recognition of UNESCO World Heritage listed Edinburgh as the first UNESCO World City Of Literature in 2005 and it is clear this is indeed a city on the move.

It is easy to see what attracts visitors to Edinburgh with one of Europe’s most charming old cores complementing a ‘New Town’, much of which itself dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries. To the south rise the Pentland Hills and in the north the city is flanked by the Firth of Forth and its sprinkling of uninhabited islands, all coming together to create a fittingly dramatic natural amphitheatre.

The city has over the last decade or so really established itself as a leading international centre for business, finance and education. After London, it is the most important financial centre in Britain with the opening in 2005 of the impressive new Royal Bank of Scotland HQ in the west of city, a potent symbol of ‘New Edinburgh’. The city also has four universities. The oldest, the University of Edinburgh, was established in 1583. Although it has traditionally had a more conservative image than other Scottish cities such as Glasgow, Edinburgh is still a wildly exciting, forward-looking capital, full of art, culture, history and beauty. It has manifold art galleries and museums, five major performing-arts theatres and a year-round calendar of international festivals.

The busiest season for tourists in Edinburgh is summer (between July and September) and particularly in August, for the world-famous Edinburgh International Festival, when the city is abuzz with cultural activity. There are also the lively Fringe Festival, Military Tattoo and the Book, Film and Jazz Festivals, which run concurrently with the main event. No matter how busy Edinburgh gets, it is still a remarkably green oasis of parkland with its own botanical garden. Also within the City of Edinburgh’s boundaries are the remarkable Forth rail and road bridges, which preside over South Queensferry, a small borough that offers a perfect escape from the increasing big city buzz of Scotland’s go-ahead capital.

Getting There By Air

Edinburgh International Airport (EDI)
Tel: (0870) 0400 007. Fax: (0131) 344 3470.
Website: www.baa.com

Scotland’s, and one of Europe’s, fastest growing airports is located 12km (8 miles) west of Edinburgh. A new multi-storey car park and control tower were completed in 2005 with plans mooted for a second runway and massive expansion programme to cater for spiralling demand. Edinburgh International Airport serves over eight million passengers and over 60 destinations worldwide. There are more than 30 flights to London’s five airports every day, with regular flights to other major cities in the UK and overseas. Since summer 2004, direct transatlantic links have been available from Edinburgh.

Major airlines: British Midland (tel: (0870) 607 0555; website: www.flybmi.com) and British Airways (tel: (0870) 850 9850; website: www.britishairways.com) are the main scheduled carriers. Low cost carriers with rapidly expanding routes from Edinburgh include Flyglobespan and Easyjet with other carriers using Edinburgh including Air France, Air Scotland, Continental, Flybe, KLM, Lufthansa, Ryanair and Scot Airways.

Approximate flight times to Edinburgh: From London is around 1 hour and from New York 8 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bureaux de change, information desk, Edinburgh Tourist Board office, hotel reservations, left-luggage; lost property, shops (including a newsagent and gift shops), duty-free shops, first aid, bars, restaurants and car hire from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, National and Hertz.

Business facilities: British Airways, British Midland and Servisair (tel: (0131) 344 3304; website: www.servisair.com) all provide executive lounges with telephone, fax and computer facilities.

Departure tax: Included in fare.

Transport to the city: Lothian Buses (tel: (0131) 555 6363; website: www.flybybus.com) run an airport shuttle service from the terminal forecourt to the city centre terminus at Waverley Bridge (situated above Waverley railway station) via Haymarket station (journey time – 25 minutes). These buses operate every 8 to 10 minutes, 0650-0020 Monday to Saturday (then less frequently 0020-0650), 0925-0020 Sunday (then less frequently during the night). A single fare costs £3. Taxis are available from the taxi rank to the east of the terminal or by calling Airport Taxis (tel: (0131) 344 3344). A trip to the city centre (journey time – 20 minutes) costs approximately £20. Access to the city by car is along the A8.

Getting There By Water

The nearby Port of Rosyth (tel: (01383) 413 366; fax: (01383) 414 499) is overseen by Forth Ports Plc (tel: (0131) 555 8700; fax: (0131) 553 7462; website: www.forthports.co.uk), situated across the Forth Bridge at Rosyth in Fife, approximately a 35-minute drive from the city centre. There is a terminal building, with passenger check-in facilities and a lounge. Many visiting cruise ships, including in 2005 the QM2, moor off South Queensferry by the Forth Bridge and ferry passengers ashore from there.

Ferry services: Superfast Ferries (tel: (0870) 234 0870; website: www.superfast.com) operates a service to Zeebrugge, Belgium, from Rosyth. This runs daily. The overnight ferry departs Zeebrugge at 1800, arriving at Rosyth at 1100. Outward bound ferries depart Rosyth at 1700, arriving at Zeebrugge at 1200.

Transport to the city: Rennies Coaches (tel: (01383) 620600; website: www.renniesofdunfermline.co.uk) operates bus X2 to the city centre (journey time – 45 minutes). The service runs daily, to link with the arrival of the ferry at around 1100, costing £3 for a single or £6 return.

Getting There By Road

British road designations are ‘M’ for motorways, ‘A’ for major trunk roads and ‘B’ for minor trunk roads (followed by up to four numbers). Traffic in the UK drives on the left and overtakes on the right. The speed limits are 113kph (70mph) on motorways, 97kph (60mph) on single-lane main roads and 48kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Seatbelts are compulsory for drivers and front-seat passengers and for rear-seat passengers if fitted. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Non-British national driving licences and International Driving Permits are valid for driving in Britain for up to one year and drivers must be over 18 years. Insurance is mandatory. Overseas visitors bringing their own cars should bring registration documents and check with their insurance company as to whether a Green Card is needed.

Breakdown service and general motoring information is available from the Automobile Association (tel: (0870) 600 0371; website: www.theaa.com), the Royal Automobile Club (tel: (0870) 572 2722; website: www.rac.co.uk) and Green Flag (tel: (0845) 246 1557; website: www.greenflag.co.uk).

Emergency breakdown services (toll free):
AA (0800) 887 766
Green Flag (0800) 590 590
RAC (08000) 828 282

Routes to the city: Edinburgh is linked to Glasgow by the M8 motorway and from there to England and Wales by the M74 and on to the A74 and M6 further to the south (toward Manchester). Edinburgh is also directly linked to London by the A1.

Approximate driving times to Edinburgh: From Glasgow – 1 hour; Manchester – 4 hours and 15 minutes; London – 7 hours and 30 minutes.

Coach services: National Express (tel: (0870) 580 8080; fax: (0121) 622 6526; website: www.nationalexpress.com) operates regular daily coach services from both London and Manchester to Edinburgh. Scottish Citylink Coaches (tel: (0870) 550 5050; fax: (0141) 332 8055; website: www.citylink.co.uk) is the largest provider of express coach services in Scotland, with a comprehensive network of destinations. There are frequent services to Glasgow (journey time – 70 minutes) and Aberdeen (journey time – 3-4 hours). All the coaches leave from the bus station on St Andrew Square. New operator Megabus sell Internet-only tickets (website: www.megabus.com) between Scotland’s cities and have led to a recent reduction in fares amongst all operators.

Getting There By Rail

While long distance services are fairly reliable (especially the award winning GNER service to London, Aberdeen and Inverness), domestic First Scotrail routes are often dogged by delays and cancellations, especially on the ‘flagship’ Edinburgh-Glasgow route. The major rail service provider for routes to and from England is Great North East Railway – GNER (tel: (0845) 722 5225; website: www.gner.co.uk), while First Scotrail (tel: (0845) 755 0033; website: www.firstscotrail.com) operates all services within Scotland, as well as a London-Edinburgh overnight sleeper link. National Rail Enquiries (tel: (0845) 748 4950) provides 24-hour timetable and fare information for all train companies.

Edinburgh has two main train stations – Waverley station (located right in the heart of the city, at the East End of Princes Street) and Haymarket station (at the junction of Dalry Road and Haymarket, in the West End). Facilities at Waverley include a food mall, a newsagent and a pub. There are also small stations at Newcraighall, South Gyle and at the new Edinburgh Park.

Rail services: First Scotrail (see above) operates a train service from Glasgow to Edinburgh every 15 minutes (journey time – 50 minutes). First Scotrail’s handy but underused Caledonian Sleeper, between London (Euston) and Edinburgh, runs every night except Saturday (journey time – 6 hours and 45 minutes). Virgin Trains (tel: (0845) 722 2333; website: www.virgintrains.co.uk) operates a direct service between Manchester and Edinburgh, three times a day (journey time – 3 hours). GNER operates a direct half-hourly service between London (Kings Cross) and Edinburgh (journey time – 4 hours and 30 minutes) with award winning on-board catering in the restaurants it provides with its premium services.

Transport to the city: Both Waverley station and Haymarket station are within walking distance of the Old Town and the New Town. The stations are also served by numerous bus routes and taxis.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Traveline (tel: (0870) 608 2608), provides information on all bus, coach and train routes within the Lothians. The office is open from Monday to Friday 0830-1700 (telephone lines operate until 2000). There is no light rail or tram system within the city and Edinburgh commuters rely on the frequent bus services, though plans for a tram system are currently under consideration.

Lothian Buses, 27 Hanover Street (tel: (0131) 555 6363; website: www.lothianbuses.co.uk), provides bus services within the city and to outlying districts, as does First Edinburgh (tel: (08708) 727271; website: www.firstedinburgh.co.uk). The Council ‘Greenways Scheme’ makes it illegal for drivers to park on the city’s main arteries and gives buses exclusive, green tarmac lanes. As a result, the bus service flows fairly freely 0600-2400, after which the night bus service comes into operation.

Fares range from £0.80 to £1.00 – night buses charge £2 and exact change is required. There are a number of passes allowing reduced fares. Lothian Buses sell a Daysaver ticket that gives unlimited travel on its routes (including those outside the city) for £2.30. Lothian Buses also sells weekly (£12) and four-weekly (£36) passes, which allow unlimited travel on Lothian Buses within these time frames. The FirstDay/FirstWeek and FirstMonth ticket covers travel on First Edinburgh buses in Edinburgh and the surrounding region with prices dependent on zones and duration of the pass.

All Lothian Bus passes can be purchased at the Waverley Bridge Ticket Centre, Waverley Bridge (tel: (0131) 555 6363), open daily 0830-1730 (summer) and 0830-1600 (winter).

Taxis
Edinburgh’s taxis are mainly black hackney cabs and can be safely hailed in the street. All are licensed and have meters fitted. Some form of driver ID should be prominently displayed. Taxi companies include City Cabs (tel: (0131) 228 1211; website: www.citycabs.co.uk) and Central Radio Taxis (tel: (0131) 229 2468; website: www.taxis-edinburgh.co.uk). Rates are fairly expensive at about £1.80 per kilometre (£2.30 per mile). A tip of 10% is expected.

Limousines
Little’s Chauffeur Drive (tel: (0131) 334 2177; fax: (0131) 316 4688; e-mail: reservations@littles.co.uk; website: www.littles.co.uk) has a fleet of Daimlers, Mercedes, people carriers and Volvo limousines. A ride from the airport to the city centre costs around £50 (plus VAT), while hire for eight hours and 60km (40 miles) costs £190-£390 (plus VAT). WL Sleigh Ltd (tel: (0131) 337 3171; fax: (0131) 346 8335; e-mail: info@sleigh.co.uk; website: www.sleigh.co.uk) hires out Mercedes and people carriers. Eight hours hire in the city centre costs £224 (plus VAT), hourly hire is from £28 in the city centre, £36 outlying areas and airport transfer costs from £48.

Driving in the City
Driving around congested Edinburgh is increasingly more hassle than it is worth, so the general advice to visitors is to walk, cycle or use public transport. Visitors who do bring a car should be aware that parking is particularly problematic. Metered parking (in force Monday to Saturday 0830-1830) is restricted in the city and a resident’s parking permit is required in many areas. In central locations, such as George Street, parking can cost up to 55p for 15 minutes. Failure to comply with parking regulations can result in a costly fine and the offending vehicle being towed away. The easiest option is for drivers to use one of the NCP car parks, such as at the St James Centre or Castle Terrace.

Car Hire
Regulations vary from company to company, however, in all cases, drivers will require a valid driving licence to hire a car in the UK. In most cases, this can be a national driving licence, although an International Driving Permit may be preferred if the licence is not in English. Separate proof of address is often required. A credit card is also essential. It is important for visitors to check what level of insurance is included in the price of car hire. In general, drivers have to be over 23 to hire a car.

Avis (tel: (0131) 337 6363 or (08700) 100 287; website: www.avis.co.uk) charges from £45 per day, including unlimited mileage, collision damage waiver, theft protection and tax. Hertz (tel: (0131) 556 8311 or (0870) 846 0013; website: www.hertz.co.uk) charges from £40 per day, including unlimited mileage, collision damage waiver, service charge and tax. Arnold Clark Car Rental (tel: (0845) 607 4500); website: www.arnoldclark.co.uk) charges from £19 per day, including a free 400km (250 miles) – drivers must have held a licence for over a year.

Bicycle Hire
Bike Trax Cycle Hire, 11 Lochrin Place, Tollcross (tel: (0131) 228 6633; fax: (0131) 228 3686; e-mail: info@biketrax.co.uk; website: www.biketrax.co.uk), hires out a wide range of bicycles. The standard rate (including helmet and lock) is £12 for half a day and £16 per day – a £100 deposit and photo ID are also required.

Business

Business Profile
The thriving, modern environment of Edinburgh provides work for over 400,000 people. Most jobs are in the service industry (over 18,000 people work in tourism alone), finance and administration. Increasingly the finance industry in all its guises is becoming Edinburgh’s most important economic sector and certainly its biggest employer. The year 2005 saw record lows in local unemployment rates, standing at 2.4% in May 2005 compared to a Scottish level of 5.7%.

Five of the largest manufacturers are Johnston Press plc, Diageo Scotland ltd, Diageo Distilling ltd, Sidlaw Group ltd, Scottish & Newcastle (brewing/leisure). Of the service sector, 80% work for information technology, tourism and financial companies. The latter account for a third of all commercial office space in the city, making Edinburgh the second most important financial centre in Britain (after London). A new financial district has grown rapidly in the west of the city centre to cater for this expanding sector. The Exchange financial complex cost more than £400 million to build and includes the huge Edinburgh International Conference Centre (EICC). Since the opening of the EICC in 1995, more than 100,000 new business tourists have arrived annually in the city, a trend that looks set to continue with vastly improved direct flight connections and major players like The Royal Bank of Scotland investing in properties near the airport.

The five largest companies in Edinburgh (ranked by turnover) are Standard Life, Scottish Equitable plc, Scottish & Newcastle plc, Scottish Equitable Managed Funds Ltd and Scottish Courage. Some of the major employers are Scottish & Newcastle, The Royal Bank of Scotland, H BoS (Bank of Scotland), Standard Life, The Governor & Co, Scottish Executive, Lothian Health Board and City of Edinburgh Council.

Most hotels now have Internet facilities and the city also sports a growing number of Wi-Fi hot spots, as well as a sprinkling of Internet cafes.

Business Etiquette
Standard office hours are Monday to Friday 0900-1700. Punctuality is expected at meetings. Both men and women are expected to wear suits. It is common practice to shake hands when greeting a business contact and to use his or her surname until both parties agree to use forenames (although formalities are often dispensed with straight away). English is the language of business – the only difficulty visitors may have is in understanding the Scottish accent, which can be quite strong. An increasing number of locals speak other European languages.

Clients are usually well entertained by their Edinburgh hosts, most likely taken to lunch in a restaurant or pub (depending on the formality of the business) or to a restaurant in the evening. It is not usual for clients to be invited to one's home. If this is the case, however, visitors should take a gift of flowers, chocolates, wine or whisky, the latter single malt rather than blended, and always Scottish.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The main districts of Edinburgh are the Georgian New Town, the medieval Old Town and the Port of Leith. The castle dominates the urban landscape, marking the centre of the city and overlooking Princes Street, Edinburgh’s main thoroughfare, which has been described as one of the most beautiful streets in the world. The Royal Mile, which Daniel Defoe once declared the most beautiful street he had ever seen, links Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse and was the main artery of the medieval city. Careful preservation in the 20th century has maintained its distinctive character. To the north, along the Firth of Forth, the Leith docks have recently been regenerated with stylish waterfront hotels, restaurants, pubs and wine bars and this renaissance is gradually expanding east and west along the coastline with a flurry of development. Outside the centre, the islands of the Firth of Forth, the Pentland Hills and the charming coastal town of South Queensferry all await.

Tourist Information
The Edinburgh and Scotland Information Centre
3 Princes Street
Tel: (0131) 473 3800 or 0845 2255 121. Fax: (01506) 832222.
E-mail: esic@eltd.org
Website: www.edinburgh.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700; Sun 1000-1700 open later in summer.

There are also city centre representatives (roaming tourist officers) who offer advice and assistance. They are found around the Royal Mile, Princes Street and Waverley station.

Passes
The new and excellent value Edinburgh Card (website: www.edinburgh.org/pass/) offers free access to 27 tourist attractions, a guidebook on the city, free transfers to and from the airport and unlimited use of local and regional buses as well as shopping discounts. The card comes in one day (£26), two day (£34) and three day (£40) permutations. The pass is available from the tourist office in Princes Street, at the airport and in advance on-line.

Key Attractions

Edinburgh Castle
This is Scotland’s most famous tourist attraction, built on the core of an extinct volcano. There has been a stronghold on this site since at least the first century AD. Edinburgh Castle now houses the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, Mons Meg (a massive 15th-century cannon) and the army headquarters of the Scottish Division. The panorama from the battlements provides a splendid view over the city.

Castlehill
Tel: (0131) 225 9846. Fax: (0131) 220 4733.
Website: www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
Transport: Bus 35.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800 (Mar-Oct); daily 0930-1700 (Nov-Mar); last entrance 45 minutes before closing time.
Admission: £9.80; concessions available.

Palace of Holyroodhouse
The Palace of Holyroodhouse sits at the eastern end of the Royal Mile and has been the royal quarter of Edinburgh since 1128, when David I founded an abbey here. Most of the present building dates from the reign of Charles II, who ordered the palace’s reconstruction. The palace remains the Queen’s official residence in Scotland and may be closed when the royal family is stopping over.

Canongate, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 556 5100. Fax: (020) 7930 9625.
Website: www.royal.gov.uk
Transport: Bus 35 or 64.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800 (Apr-Oct); daily 0930-1630 (Nov-Mar); last entrance 45 minutes before closing time.
Admission: £8.50; concessions available.

National Gallery of Scotland
The collection of European paintings and sculpture dating from the Renaissance to the 19th century is Scotland’s greatest and includes works by Van Dyck, Tiepolo, Pisarro, Monet, Cézanne, El Greco, Raphael, Titian and Botticelli. The Royal Scottish Academy is now accessed through the award-winning new Weston Link. The Scottish National Portrait Gallery is located nearby, at 1 Queen Street.

The Mound
Tel: (0131) 624 6200 or 332 2266 (recorded information). Fax: (0131) 623 7126.
E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org
Website: www.nationalgalleries.org
Transport: Bus 23, 27, 28 or 41/41A.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, open till 1900 on Thurs.
Admission: Free.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
This gallery first opened in 1960 and moved to its present location, a William Burn building, west of the city centre, in 1984. Paintings by 20th-century masters such as Lucien Freud, Adrian Wiszniewski and the Scottish colourists are on display indoors, while the garden is dotted with sculptures by Henry Moore (among others). Opposite is the Dean Gallery, a stylish gallery that opened in 1999 to house a large collection of works by sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi. The gallery also contains works by surrealists, such as Dali and Magritte, as well as works by Picasso. A free galleries bus operates hourly 1100-1700 between this gallery and Dean Gallery in the West End and the National Gallery of Scotland and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in the New Town.

75 Belford Road
Tel: (0131) 624 6200 or 332 2266 (recorded information). Fax: (0131) 623 7126.
E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org
Website: www.nationalgalleries.org
Transport: Bus 13, westbound from George Street; free galleries bus.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, open until 1900 on Thurs.
Admission: Free.

Museum of Scotland
This multi-level museum opened in December 1998, in a spectacular new building. The exhibits detail the country’s history from its geological formation and earliest inhabitants up to the 20th century. Scotland’s regional treasures are also on display. Exhibits include a travelling canteen belonging to Bonnie Prince Charlie. Two days could easily be spent in the museum. However, to enjoy the highlights there are daily guided tours. It is conveniently joined to the Royal Museum of Scotland, which has displays covering everything, from Japanese art to the stuffed remains of ‘Dolly the Sheep’. The rooftop terrace offers great views of the city, while the ‘Modern Scotland’ exhibition on the floor below is currently in the midst of a major renovation that is slated to be completed in 2007.

Chambers Street
Tel: (0131) 225 7534. Fax: (0131) 220 4819.
Website: www.nms.ac.uk
Transport: Bus2, 23, 27, 35, 41, 42.
Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sat 1000-1700, Tues 1000-2000 and Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

Our Dynamic Earth
Built to commemorate the coming of the millennium with the aid of Millennium Commission funding,, Our Dynamic Earth tells the story of how the earth was created. Using special effects and advanced technology, visitors can travel back in time (via a ‘time machine’) to witness the birth of the earth, before journeying to the centre of the planet to experience a volcanic eruption, see polar ice caps and a tropical rainforest. A visit lasts approximately 90 minutes.

Holyrood Road
Tel: (0131) 550 7800. Fax: (0131) 550 7801.
E-mail: enquiries@dynamicearth.co.uk
Website: www.dynamicearth.co.uk
Transport: Bus 35.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, last entry 1550 (Apr-Oct); open until 1800 (Jul-Aug); closed Mon-Tue (Nov-Mar). Last admission 70 minutes before closing time.
Admission: £8.95; concessions available.

The Georgian House
Part of Charlotte Square, at the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, the Georgian House is furnished with the same kind of china, silver, paintings and furniture that would have been in use around 1796. There are also temporary exhibitions at nearby 28 Charlotte Square, such as a well-received display on St Kilda in summer 2005, as well as a popular café and restaurant.

National Trust of Scotland, 7 Charlotte Square
Tel: (0131) 225 2160. Fax: (0131) 226 3318.
E-mail: thegeorgianhouse@nts.org.uk
Website: www.nts.org.uk
Transport: Bus 3/3A, 10/10A, 11, 12, 26/26A, 21,69,33,31,40,41.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, last admission 1630 (Apr-Oct); daily 1100-1500, last admission 1430 (Mar, Nov-Dec); hours liable to change
Admission: Free.

St Giles’ Cathedral
A church has stood on the site of St Giles’ Cathedral, the High Kirk of Edinburgh, since the 12th century. The present building, with its distinctive open-crown steeple supported by eight flying buttresses, dates back to the 16th century. John Knox became the first Protestant minister here, after the Reformation. Inside, the stunning Thistle Chapel is noted for its ornate wooden carving. Used also for major Scottish funerals such as the last send off of politician Robin Cook in 2005.

High Street, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 225 9442. Fax: (0131) 225 9576.
E-mail: info@stgiles.net
Website: www.stgiles.net
Transport: A five-minute walk from Waverley station; bus 35, 23, 28, 42 or 27.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (May-Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (Oct-Apr).
Admission: Free, donations are welcome.

Royal Yacht Britannia
Now that the Royal Yacht Britannia has been decommissioned, it is open to the public as an award-winning floating museum. Visitors can explore its decks and gain an insight into the lives of both the Royal Family and the ship’s crew. The Queen’s bedroom is top of everyone’s ‘must see’ list. A complementary exhibition outlines the vessel’s final year in service as the Royal Yacht.

Ocean Terminal, Leith
Tel: (0131) 555 5566. Fax: (0131) 555 8835.
E-mail: enquiries@tryb.co.uk
Website: www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
Transport: Bus 22, 11, 34, 35, 36.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800 (Apr-Sep); daily 1000-1700 (Oct-Mar). Last admissions 90 minutes before closing time.
Admission: £9; concessions available.

Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre
Scotland is defined by its fine whiskies – tourists flock from far afield to sample the smooth wares. The one-hour tour of the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre includes talks on the production of single malt whisky, the different whisky-producing regions and how whisky is distilled.

354 Castlehill, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 220 0441. Fax: (0131) 220 6288.
E-mail: info@whisky-heritage.co.uk
Website: www.whisky-heritage.co.uk
Transport: Bus 35.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Oct-Apr); daily 0930-1830 (May-Sep). Last tour departs one hour before closing time.
Admission: £8.50; concessions available.

Further Distractions

Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
Regarded as Scotland’s premier garden, this is one of the city’s most popular visitor attractions. Covering 31 hectares (78 acres), the garden contains a plant collection of unique botanical importance. It is the direct descendant of a physic garden established near the Palace of Holyroodhouse in 1670.

20a Inverleith Row
Tel: (0131) 552 7171. Fax: (0131) 248 2901.
E-mail: info@rbge.org.uk
Website: www.rbge.org.uk
Transport: Bus 23 or 27.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900 (Apr-Sep); daily 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb); daily 1000-1800 (Mar and Oct).
Admission: Free for the garden (donations welcome), £3.50 for glass houses when open.

Writers’ Museum
This literary museum is dedicated to the history and artefacts of three of Scotland’s most famous men of letters – Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns. Exhibits include Walter Scott’s chess board and Robert Burns’ old writing desk.

Lady Stair’s House, Lady Stair’s Close, Lawnmarket
Tel: (0131) 529 4901. Fax: (0131) 220 5057.
E-mail: enquiries@writersmuseum.demon.co.uk
Website: www.cac.org.uk
Transport: Bus 36, 23, 41/41A.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700 (plus Sun 1200-1700 during the Edinburgh Festival).
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

The Cadies-Witchery Tours (tel: (0131) 225 6745; fax: (0131) 220 2086; e-mail: info@witcherytours.com; website: www.witcherytours.com), organises walking tours of the Old Town, mixing history with humour and ghosts with gore. The adult price of £7.50 includes a book of witchery tales. The tour leaves from The Witchery restaurant, near the Castle, and lasts 90 minutes.

Mercat Walking Tours (tel/fax: (0131) 557 6464; e-mail: info@mercattours.com; website: www.mercattours.com), operates a ‘Ghosts and Ghouls’ tour daily at 1900 and 2000. The tour costs £7.50 for adults and lasts 90 minutes, with an extended tour lasting an extra 30 minutes also now available. The tour sets off from the Mercat Cross by St Giles Cathedral and the company also offers a number of other ghoulish tours of the city.

The two-hour Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour (tel/fax: (0131) 226 6665 or (0800) 169 7410; website: www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk) has actors guiding walkers through historic taverns where famous writers used to meet. The evening tour sets off from the Beehive Inn, in the Grassmarket, and costs £7 for adults (concessions available). Tours start at 1930 and run daily from June to September (less frequently in winter).

Bus Tours
Tour buses are run by Edinburgh Bus Tours (tel: (0131) 220 0770; e-mail: edinburghtour@fsmail.net; website: www.edinburghtour.com). Tours depart every 10/15 minutes from Waverley Bridge (every 30 minutes in winter). The city sightseeing circuit takes approximately one hour and covers all the major sites, such as Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. A day ticket costs £8.50 and is valid for 24 hours. Highland Experience (tel: (0131) 331 1889; website: www.highlandexperience.com) runs regular tours out to Rosslyn Chapel and further afield into the Scottish Highlands.

Helicopter Tours
Lothian Helicopters (tel: (01875) 320032; website: www.lothianhelicopters.co.uk) runs helicopter tours of the city, costing from £35 per person for a short flight through to £390 per person for a comprehensive tour of the Forth Valley. Most popular is a 20 minute tour of the city and Forth rail and road bridges, costing £90.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Rosslyn Chapel: Rosslyn Chapel (tel: (0131) 440 2159; website: www.rosslynchapel.org.uk), in Roslin, is one of the most fascinating churches in Britain and has become increasingly popular after being featured in the best selling Da Vinci Code novel and Hollywood film of the same name. It has strong links with the Knights Templar, a medieval religious order who travelled to the Holy Land and believed to have brought back many treasures – some of which it is claimed are buried at Rosslyn. The chapel is full of rich carvings, including many ancient pagan symbols known as ‘green men’. It is situated approximately a 45-minute drive from the city centre – sign posted from the A701 to Penicuik. Bus 15A or First Bus 62 from central Edinburgh stops near the chapel. Highland Experience (tel: (0131) 331 1889; website: www.highlandexperience.com) also runs regular tours to Rosslyn. After visiting the chapel, the nearby Rosslyn Glen is a good place for a stroll. The chapel is open Monday to Saturday 1000-1700 and Sunday 1200-1645. Admission costs £6 (concessions are available).

For a Whole Day

Scottish Seabird Centre: The Scottish Seabird Centre, The Harbour, North Berwick (tel: (01620) 890202; e-mail: info@seabird.org; website: www.seabird.org) gives visitors a unique opportunity to view the birdlife of the Firth of Forth. High-tech cameras, controlled by the visitor, allow close-up views of gannets on the Bass Rock (the world’s largest single rock gannetry) and nesting puffins on the island of Fidra. In winter, when many birds have migrated to warmer climes, visitors can watch breeding colonies of seals instead. The pleasant seaside town of North Berwick is also well worth exploring and is easily reached by train from Edinburgh – the centre is a 10-minute walk from the train station. First Edinburgh buses 124 and X5 also travel from Edinburgh to North Berwick. The centre is open daily 1000-1800 in the summer and 1000-1600 in the winter. Admission costs £6.95 (concessions are available).

South Queensferry: The picturesque suburb of South Queensferry lies just over 10 minutes northwest by train from Edinburgh Haymarket and enjoys a spectacular location tucked beneath the epic Forth Bridge. This is one of the most outstanding legacies of Victorian engineering, a triple cantilever iron red monster that vaults trains across the Firth of Forth with a majesty that has withstood the ravages of time. It is accompanied today by an attractive road bridge, a 1960s creation, and both are visible from all over a town that also boasts a historic cobbled High Street. The pubs and restaurants of the High Street are a draw for visiting tourists as is the free Queensferry Museum (tel: (0131) 331 5545; website: www.cac.org.uk), which delves into some of the rich history of ‘The Ferry’ – including the Battle of Britain’s first dogfight which was fought above the town and the Burry Man, a pagan creation that still walks the local streets once a year. One of the best times to visit is on January 1 for the ‘Loony Dook’, when dozens of locals and an increasing number of visitors take to the chilly waters of the Firth of Forth to the skirl of the bagpipes. On the fringes of the town is Hopetoun House (tel: (0131) 331 2451; website: www.hopetounhouse.com), one of Britain’s most impressive stately homes, which reclines in a large waterfront estate. Deer and buzzards patrol the grounds, which are home to myriad events throughout the year including outdoor Shakespeare in summer.

Glasgow: This other famous Scottish city is less than one hour away by train. The Glasgow Tourist Information Centre, 11 George Square (tel: (0141) 566 0800; fax: (0141) 566 0810; e-mail: enquiries@seeglasgow.com; website: www.seeglasgow.com) is open daily and provides information (see the Columbus Glasgow City Guide for more information).

Sport

Football is Scotland’s most popular game and there is a Scottish league of four divisions in which Scotland’s football teams compete. The national team has failed to make it to a European Championship or World Cup since 1998 despite the fanatical and devoted support of the vociferous Tartan Army, who have themselves won more trophies than the actual team over the last decade or so. Scottish football is dominated by the two big teams from Glasgow, Celtic and Rangers, but there have been recent signs of a renaissance in the east. Heart of Midlothian (‘Hearts’), based at Tynecastle Stadium (tel: (0131) 200 7200; website: www.heartsfc.co.uk) have recently been taken over by a Lithuanian businessman who appointed a big name manager and strengthened the squad in an attempt to challenge the ‘Old Firm’. Hibernian (‘Hibs’), based at Easter Road Stadium (tel: (0131) 661 2159; website: www.hibernianfc.co.uk), have taken a different road, choosing to bring through young players and encourage local talent, a policy which reaped benefits in the 2004-2005 season, when they made it into European competition for the first time in years as they finished third.

Rugby is also very popular and Scotland competes in the Six Nations Rugby Championship, which it has won in the past, though the national team has struggled in recent years. Murrayfield (tel: (0131) 346 5000; website: www.scottishrugby.org) is the centre of the nation’s rugby activities. Edinburgh’s own team, the Edinburgh Gunners, also play their Celtic League and Heineken Cup matches at Murrayfield. A short distance away, Murrayfield Ice Rink has regular displays of ice-skating, curling and ice hockey. Musselburgh Racecourse, just outside the city boundaries, was established in 1816 and is one of the oldest racetracks in the country.

Tickets for sporting events can be purchased direct from the clubs and from the Murrayfield and Meadowbank stadiums, 139 London Road (tel: (0131) 661 5351; fax: (0131) 652 0927) sports centres. Tickets are also available for purchase from Ticketline (tel. (0870) 444 5556; website: www.ticketline.co.uk) and Ticketmaster (tel: (0870) 534 4444; website: www.scotland.ticketmaster.co.uk). Ticketmaster tickets are also often available from the Edinburgh Tourist Information centre on Princes Street.

Fitness Centres: Meadowbank Sports Centre, 139 London Road (tel: (0131) 661 5351; fax: (0131) 652 0927), provides facilities for many different sports. The Balmoral and Scotsman hotels (see Hotels) also all have fitness centres that take day guests.

Golf: Golfers are well catered for in Edinburgh. There are no fewer than six municipal courses and 28 private clubs, many of which welcome visitors. Braid Hills Golf Course, Braid Hills Approach Road, Braid Hills Road (tel: (0131) 447 6666), is a pay-and-play 18-hole course. Green fees are £15 per round. Kings Acre Golf Course, Lasswade (tel: (0131) 663 3456; fax: (0131) 663 7076; website: www.kings-acregolf.com), is an 18-hole pay-and-play par-70 parkland course. Green fees are £22 per round (£30 at weekends). For more information on golfing in the Edinburgh area, visit http://golf.visitscotland.com.

Skiing: Midlothian Ski Centre, Hillend, near Edinburgh (tel: (0131) 445 4433; fax: (0131) 445 5549; e-mail: ski@midlothian.gov.uk), is one of Europe’s longest artificial ski slopes, with a chair lift and skiing and snowboarding facilities.

Swimming: The Royal Commonwealth Pool, Dalkeith Road (tel: (0131) 667 7211; fax: (0131) 662 0265) was built for the 1970 Commonwealth Games.

Tennis: Courts are available at Craiglockhart Tennis and Sports Centre, 177 Colinton Road (tel: (0131) 443 0101; fax: (0131) 455 7321).

Watersports: The Port Edgar Marina and Sailing School, Shore Road, South Queensferry (tel: (0131) 331 3330; fax: (0131) 331 4878), is Scotland’s largest watersports centre, with dinghies, catamarans, powerboats and canoes for hire. There are a variety of courses catering for everyone from first time paddlers through to those looking to tie-up advanced sailing certificates. Plans for a massive renovation programme were unveiled in August 2005.

Shopping

When it comes to shopping, Edinburgh has it all – department stores, friendly little boutiques, the traditional, the new, the expected and the unexpected. The main shopping area in Edinburgh is Princes Street, an architectural jumble of chain stores, department stores and bustling crowds. It's not always the most pleasant experience, even if it does give a splendid view of Edinburgh Castle, and most shoppers seem to regard it as a necessary evil to be ploughed through on a Saturday afternoon. George Street, which runs parallel to Princes Street, is calmer, more exclusive and correspondingly pricier.

Princes Street is the location for Scotland’s most famous shop, Jenners, which has a fabulous food hall. Nearby, in South St Andrew Street, is the city’s most chic shop, Harvey Nichols, which opened in August 2002. Much like its London counterpart, the shop sells the hottest designer labels, as well as beauty products and food. The Royal Mile, on the other hand, is scattered with off-beat stores and souvenir sellers. Nearby Grassmarket (a trading place since 1477) and Victoria Street are packed with arts and crafts shops, bookshops and specialist food stores. Some of the city’s smartest designer stores, such as Escada, are along George Street in the New Town. The main modern shopping centres are Cameron Toll Centre, 6 Lady Road, and Princes Mall (formerly the Waverley Shopping Centre) on Princes Street. There is also a new shopping complex in Leith, called Ocean Terminal.

Be sure to break away from the crowds and the generic shops to investigate some of the stores in places like Causewayside (a Mecca for antique-hunters), Broughton Street and Stockbridge. For souvenirs, quality knitwear and traditional Scottish items, the Royal Mile is the place to shop, although stores selling genuinely attractive goods are outnumbered by those that peddle the cheap and tacky. Visitors to Edinburgh who want to take home a little piece of Scotland may be tempted by tartan fabrics, Celtic-inspired jewellery, shortbread and, of course, whisky. All these items are available from numerous boutiques and specialist shops in and around the city.

Ingliston Market (tel: (0131) 333 3801) takes place every Sunday 1000-1600 at the Royal Highland Show ground, near the airport. Anything and everything is sold here, from clothes to furniture, but catch it soon as there are strong rumours it will soon close to make way for the expansion of the airport.

In general, shops are open 0900-1730, with late-night shopping on Thursday until 1930 or 2000. Sunday opening is increasingly popular, particularly among the larger stores. Many shops (especially those frequented by tourists) are part of the Tax-Free scheme. Visitors must keep their receipts and fill out a claim form to have the 17.5% VAT refunded. See www.globalrefund.com for further information on tax free shopping.

Culture

Edinburgh is right at the heart of Scottish culture during the annual Edinburgh International Festival and the flurry of festivals which surround it. However, even without this, the city has a flourishing cultural scene. The Edinburgh Festival Theatre, 13-29 Nicolson Street (tel: (0131) 529 6000; fax: (0131) 662 1199; e-mail: bookings@eft.co.uk; website: www.eft.co.uk), specialises in opera, ballet, dance, musical and a variety of productions on a grand scale. It has the biggest stage of any presenting theatre in Britain and is the venue for Edinburgh’s most prestigious shows. The Usher Hall, Lothian Road (tel: (0131) 228 1155; website: www.usherhall.co.uk), is home to the Royal Scottish National Orchestra (website: www.rsno.org.uk). Other major venues (the Royal Lyceum Theatre, the King’s Theatre and the Usher Hall) are all to be found in the west of the city on or around Lothian Road.

Tickets to the Edinburgh Festival, the Hogmanay party and many other cultural events are available for purchase from The Hub, Castlehill (tel: (0131) 473 2000; website: www.eif.co.uk/thehub/). Tickets for the Edinburgh Fringe Festival are issued by the Edinburgh Fringe Office, 180 High Street (tel: (0131) 226 5257). All other tickets can be purchased from the venues. The Military Tattoo has its own ticket office on 32 Market Street (tel: (0131) 225 1188). Ticketmaster (tel: (0870) 534 4444; website: www.scotland.ticketmaster.co.uk) and Ticketline (tel: (0870) 444 5556; website: www.ticketline.co.uk) also provide tickets for some events and venues.

There is a wealth of information for all the Edinburgh cultural events available online, for the Edinburgh Festival (website: www.eif.co.uk), the Edinburgh Fringe Festival (website: www.edfringe.com), the Jazz Festival (website: www.jazzmusic.co.uk), the Edinburgh Film Festival (website: www.edfilmfest.org.uk), the Book Festival (website: www.edbookfest.co.uk) and the Military Tattoo (website: www.edintattoo.co.uk). A good general online source of information (website: www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk) also provides information on cultural events in the city.

Music: The Usher Hall, Lothian Road (tel: (0131) 228 1155; website: www.usherhall.co.uk), is Edinburgh’s finest concert hall and home to the Royal Scottish National Orchestra (website: www.rsno.org.uk). Queen’s Hall, Clerk Street (tel: (0131) 668 2019; fax: (0131) 668 2656; e-mail: admin@queenshalledinburgh.org; website: www.queenshalledinburgh.co.uk), is also a popular venue for classical music performances. This former church hosts a world-class programme, headed by the Scottish Chamber Orchestra. The Edinburgh Playhouse, 18-22 Greenside Place (tel: (0131) 524 3333) is home to large musical productions, as well as one-off pop concerts.

Theatre: The Royal Lyceum Theatre Company, 30B Grindlay Street (tel: (0131) 248 4800 or 248 4848 for tickets; e-mail: info@lyceum.org.uk; website: www.lyceum.org.uk), is Edinburgh’s leading theatre company. The King’s Theatre, 2 Leven Street (tel: (0131) 529 6000; fax: (0131) 662 1199; e-mail: tickets@eft.co.uk; website: www.eft.co.uk), is an elegant Edwardian venue presenting quality drama of a traditional nature, as well as the city’s annual pantomime. The Traverse Theatre, 10 Cambridge Street (tel: (0131) 228 1404; fax: (0131) 229 8443; e-mail: boxoffice@traverse.co.uk; website: www.traverse.co.uk), focuses on award-winning, exciting and original contemporary plays by Scottish and international writers.

Dance: The main dance centre in Edinburgh is Dance Base (tel: (0131) 225 5525; e-mail: dance@dancebase.org.uk; website: www.dancebase.org.uk), which has classes, workshops and events at 14-16 Grassmarket.

Film: The Filmhouse, 88 Lothian Road (tel: (0131) 228 2688; website: www.filmhousecinema.com), is an independent arthouse cinema showing international films and classics. It is also the headquarters for the Edinburgh International Film Festival. Multi-screen complexes include the Cameo Cinema, 38 Home Street (tel: (0131) 228 2800), the Odeon Cinema, 118 Lothian Road (tel: (0871) 224 4007), the Vue, Greenside Row (tel: (08712) 240240), Vue, Ocean Terminal, Leith (tel: (0131) 553 0700 and the UCI, out of the centre at Kinnaird Park (tel: (08712) 244007).

Edinburgh has become an increasingly popular place to make movies and also features in many well-known films. Trainspotting (1996), Shallow Grave (1994), Women Talking Dirty (1999), The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1969) and Great Expectations (1998) were all shot or set in Edinburgh. Further Hollywood acclaim is set to surround the city in 2006 when a big budget movie adaptation of the Da Vinci Code features Rosslyn Chapel on the outskirts of Edinburgh.

Cultural Events: The highlight of the cultural year in Scotland is the Edinburgh International Festival, which takes place for three weeks towards the end of the summer (Aug/Sep). Founded in 1947, it is now the largest arts festival in the world. The innovative Edinburgh Festival Fringe and International Film Festival run concurrently with the main festival. Shows range from short open-air concerts to full-scale productions by the Royal Shakespeare Company. The Military Tattoo also takes place in the summer (Aug) on Edinburgh Castle’s Esplanade. Other major festivals that coincide with the main Festival include the International TV Festival, Edinburgh International Jazz Festival, Edinburgh Book Festival and Edinburgh International Folk Festival. Every April, the city hosts the Edinburgh Science Festival, which attracts scientists from around the world. Edinburgh’s Hogmanay, celebrated on 31 December, has its origins in pre-Christian times and is always one of Europe’s largest New Year celebrations. The Edinburgh and Lothian Information Centre (website: www.edinburgh.org) provides more information on the programme of events to celebrate Hogmanay.

Literary Notes: The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1961), by Muriel Spark, seemed to define the city’s traditional image in the 20th century, until Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting was published in 1993. Great writers to have expounded on Edinburgh in earlier periods include Robert Louis Stevenson, whose famous tale of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde (1886) was set in London but based on his experiences of Edinburgh, and Sir Walter Scott in The Waverley Novels (1829-33). JK Rowling wrote the first book of the Harry Potter series, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (1997), while sitting in a café in Edinburgh and still lives in the city. Ian Rankin’s captivating detective novels, starring the hard-nosed Inspector Rebus, delve into the city’s dirty underbelly, but also often provide insights into the city informing visitors and raising wry smiles from locals. The latest, Fleshmarket Close (2004), is widely regarded as one of his best.

Nightlife

The days when Edinburgh’s nightlife was a bit tame and local punters went through to Glasgow for a decent night out are long gone. Edinburgh is booming and its nightlife is following suit with well-heeled locals fuelling a scene that is bolstered by a steady stream of tourists throughout the year. There is no one set area for nightlife with George Street in the New Town, the High Street area of the Old Town, the university sector and the Grassmarket all popular haunts. Broughton Street tends to attract a ‘mixed’ clientele, while the seaside quarter of Leith is popular with the trendy set. The city’s pubs range from traditional taverns with hundreds of years of history behind them, to slinky modern style-bars. After pub closing time, Edinburgh’s club scene offers everything from easy listening to the latest progressive trance, via 1970s and 1980s revival evenings. Live music can be heard everywhere from intimate pubs to the huge Murrayfield Stadium.

Some clubs may require smart dress and alcohol can normally be purchased until 2300. Certain pubs and bars may stay open until 0100, café-bars and restaurants until 0300 and clubs until 0300 (until 0500 during the festival). The legal drinking age is 18. Drink prices vary enormously, depending on the venue – beer varies between £2 to £3 per pint.

Nightlife listings are provided in The List magazine (website: www.list.co.uk), available in newsagents.

Bars: Some good traditional pubs are Bow Bar, 80 West Bow, and Café Royal Circle Bar, 17 West Register Street (which also features great seafood). There are plenty of pubs lining Rose Street (a pedestrianised road behind Princes Street) but the Victorian grandeur is often blighted by hen and stag parties. Also worth trying is The Canny Man’s, 239 Morningside Road, with its highly unusual bric-a-brac décor – beware as cameras are banned. More stylish places to hang out include the Malmaison Hotel Bar, 1 Tower Place, Leith, Ricks, Frederick Street, the Opal Lounge and the Candy Bar, both on George Street, and Indigo Yard, Charlotte Lane. Depending on your favourite tipple, go to the Malt Shovel, Cockburn Street, or The Bow Bar, The West Bow, Victoria Street, to sample whisky; the Cask and Barrel, 115 Broughton Street, for real ale, or Bar Kohl, 54 George IV Bridge, to work your way through the many vodkas on offer. A popular new meeting place is the Villager, 49-50 George IV Bridge. Leith offers everything from raffish old pubs like the Port o’ Leith, 58 Constitution Street, that are not for the faint hearted through to bright style bars like Bar Sirius, Dock Place.

Casinos: The Berkeley Casino (tel: (0131) 228 4446; website: www.casinocity.com/uk/edinburgh/stanedin/), next to the Caledonian hotel, at the west end of Princes Street, and Gala Casino (tel: (0131) 338 4444; website: www.galacasinos.co.uk), Maybury junction, 10 minutes from Edinburgh airport, both require membership, which takes 24 hours to clear. A passport or a driver’s licence is required for proof of age (over 18 years only). Dress code for both casinos is smart-casual – Gala does not allow blue jeans, sportswear or trainers.

Clubs: Edinburgh’s club scene is lively and clubs quickly fall in and out of fashion. The Honeycomb, Niddry Street, and Cabaret Voltaire, 36-38 Blair Street, are fairly hip. The Cavendish, 3 West Tollcross, caters for an older crowd and specialises in roots and reggae with dedicated African and Latin nights. Opal Lounge on George Street (website: www.opallounge.co.uk) and Peppermint Lounge, Chambers Street, are also popular. During the festivals in August a number of impromptu events spring up – check with The List magazine at all times of year for the latest listings or check out the local record shops for flyers.

Live Music: The Royal Oak, 1 Infirmary Street, is an unpretentious folk bar, while Sandy Bell’s, 25 Forest Road, also has informal folk sessions. Eighty Queen St, 80 Queen Street and Henry’s Jazz Cellar, 8 Morrison Street, both feature live jazz while Bannerman’s, 212 Cowgate, regularly features new bands. Whistlebinkies, 4-6 South Bridge, is a well established live music bar, with bands playing every night. Check The List magazine for fortnightly (weekly during the August festivals) listings.

City Statistics

Location: Lothians, eastern Scotland, United Kingdom.
Country dialling code: 44.
Population: 453,670 (City of Edinburgh); 790,484 (Lothians region).
Ethnic mix: Majority Scottish and English; minorities include Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Indian, Chinese, West Indian and African.
Religion: Church of Scotland majority, Presbyterian and Catholic faiths also represented.
Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3°C (37.5°F).
Average July temp: 14.5°C (58°F).
Annual rainfall: 480mm (18.5 inches).

Special Events

The Loony Dook, Jan 1, Bringing in the New Year with a chilly swim, South Queensferry
Six Nations Rugby Feb-Mar, Murrayfield (website: www.6nations.net)
Edinburgh International Science Festival, mid Apr, various venues (website: www.sciencefestival.co.uk)
Royal Scottish Academy Annual Exhibition, Apr-May, The Mound (website: www.royalscottishacademy.org)
Royal Highland Show, agricultural show, mid Jun, Royal Highland Show ground, Islington (website: www.royalhighlandshow.org)
Edinburgh International Jazz and Blues Festival, Jul-Aug, various venues (website: www.jazzmusic.co.uk)
Edinburgh Military Tattoo, Aug, Edinburgh Castle (website: www.edintattoo.co.uk)
Edinburgh International Festival, theatre and high art festival, Aug, various venues (website: www.eif.co.uk)
Edinburgh International Fringe Festival, fringe ‘alternative’ theatre festival, Aug, various venues (website: www.edfringe.com)
Edinburgh International Book Festival, Aug, Charlotte Square Gardens (website: www.edbookfest.co.uk)
Edinburgh International Film Festival, Aug, various venues (website: www.edfilmfest.org.uk)
Edinburgh International TV Festival, Aug, various venues (website: www.mgeitf.co.uk)
Edinburgh International Folk Festival, Aug, various venues
Hogmanay, New Year celebrations, 31 Dec, throughout the city (website: www.edinburghshogmanay.org)

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: £0.80
33cl bottle of beer: £1.40
Financial Times newspaper: £1
36-exposure colour film: £5
City-centre bus ticket: £0.80-£1
Adult football ticket: £20-£25
Three-course restaurant meal with wine/beer: £25

1 British Pound Sterling (£1) = US$1.75; C$2.04; A$2.30; ¬1.47
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005