World City Guide

A visit to Florence (Firenze) is a must for any art lover. UNESCO estimates that 60% of the world’s most important artworks are in Italy, with over half of them located in Florence. Situated in the northwest of Italy, surrounded by the wine-growing hills of Chianti, the city attracts rapture and frustration in equal proportions. Few can dismiss the image of Brunelleschi’s cathedral dome bursting through the morning mist – a terracotta balloon hovering above the medieval rooftops. But once the visitor drops down to street level, the profusion of traffic, tourists and touts can remove all sense of tranquillity. It seems every building holds a masterpiece, demanding attention and often gobbling up funds. The streets are narrow and dark, enclosed on either side by granite palaces and even the open spaces are crowded with babbling tour groups.

Often called the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence owes much of her wealth to the Middle Ages. Banking became big business on the back of the city’s profitable wool trade and, in 1235, Florence minted the florin, the first gold coin to become standard currency across Europe. In their turn, these bankers commissioned some of the finest art and architecture in the city. The names Strozzi, Rucellai and Pitti can be found all over Florence, but it was the Medici family (who led the city for over 300 years, off and on) that nurtured the greatest flowering of Renaissance art. The paintings of Botticelli, the sculptures of Michelangelo and the rusticated palaces of Michelozzo all flourished under their rule.
Then, as now, most of the action in Florence took place between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, the city’s civic heart. Here, in the historic centre, Dante (forefather of the Italian language) first glimpsed his muse, Beatrice. Here, the Florentine Republic rose and fell. And here, Savonarola’s Bonfire of the Vanities blazed. Florence, for all her timeless charm, is no stranger to destruction. In 1944, all her bridges, save the Ponte Vecchio, were destroyed by the Nazis, in an attempt to stall the advance of the allies. In 1966, the banks of the River Arno burst, flooding the city with her muddied waters and devastating homes and artwork. Most recently, in 1993, a bomb exploded near the Uffizi Gallery, ripping through the museum’s interior and claiming several lives. That said, the only violence most tourists are likely to witness is during the medieval football match on 24 June (Florence’s patron saint day) when petty wrangles often spill onto the pitch.

It is best for visitors to avoid the peak summer months of July and August, when the weather can be unbearably sticky and the prospect of trailing around museums becomes unappealing. Early autumn, when the countryside glows with mellow fruitfulness, is the best time to visit, avoiding the heat and the queues and capitalising on the soft light, empty streets and the abundance of wild mushrooms and just-pressed olive oil.

Getting There By Air

Galileo Galilei (PSA)
Tel: (050) 849 111 or 849 402 or 849 300 (flight information). Fax: (050) 849 216.
Website: www.pisa-airport.com

Pisa’s airport, Galileo Galilei, is the international gateway to Florence. Situated 80km (50 miles) from Florence, it provides easy access to the city by road or rail. As one of Italy’s busiest airports, Pisa handles around 1.1 million passengers per year.

Major airlines: Italy’s national airline, Alitalia (tel: (848) 865 642; website: www.alitalia.it), connects Pisa to all the major Italian cities, including daily flights to the intercontinental airports of Milan and Rome. British Airways and Ryanair operate daily flights to London (Gatwick and Stansted respectively), while Lufthansa flies to Paris and Monaco, and Norwegian to Oslo.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a bank, bureau de change, ATMs (bancomat), nursery (situated on the ground floor) and a selection of restaurants. La Corte mall offers a wide range of shopping, as well as a hair salon. Tourist information, a post office and car hire operators, including Avis, Europcar, Liberty Rent International, Maggiore and Sixt Rent a Car, are available in the arrivals hall.

Business facilities: There is a dedicated business centre, the Galilei Business Centre (tel: (050) 849 200; fax: (050) 598 097; e-mail: sat@pisa-airport.com) which has fully equipped rooms available to be booked for small meetings and seminars. Business-class travellers also have access to the Galilei VIP Lounge, which offers on-the-spot check-in for passengers carrying hand luggage only. Refreshments and travel information are also available.

Transport to the city: The most hassle-free and commonly used way for arriving tourists to travel to Florence is on the train. The station, Pisa Aeroporto, is just a short stride from the airport and tickets are available for purchase on the concourse. Trains (see Getting There By Train) depart more or less every hour, between 1013 and 1855 (journey time – about 1 hour). On departing Florence, visitors can check in at the railway station’s Air Terminal in Florence (platform five) from 0730 to 1530. Passengers with luggage must check in 20 minutes before the train departs and arrive at least 35 minutes before flight departure. Tickets cost ¬5 one way.

There is a Terravision shuttle bus (tel: (050) 849 300; website: www.terravision.it) that stops in Florence (by the station). It runs daily from around 0830 to 2230, depending on Ryanair arrival times (journey time – 1 hour 10 minutes) and costs from ¬4.90 single (¬10.50 at peak times).

If one wishes to take a taxi to Florence (an unusual choice, given the excellent train service), these are to be found outside the main exit or ordered by telephone (tel: (050) 541 600). The journey time would vary greatly depending on the traffic and prices would be extremely high – around ¬130.

Amerigo Vespucci (FLR)
Tel/Fax: (055) 315 874 or 306 1300 (tel only).
Website: www.aeroporto.firenze.it

Florence City Airport underwent extensive rebuilding in the early 1980s and reopened for regular flights in 1985. Situated just 5km (3 miles) from Florence city centre, the airport is steadily increasing in capacity, with regular flights to major European cities as well as domestic destinations.

Major airlines: National airline Alitalia (tel: (848) 865 641 or 865 642; website: www.alitalia.it) links the city with Milan in the north and Rome in the south. Air France, Austrian, Lufthansa and Meridiana all provide regular services to major European cities.

Airport facilities: Tourist information, banking and exchange facilities are available during office hours and there is an on-site restaurant (open lunchtime only) and snack bar. Avis, Europcar, Hertz, Italy by Car, Maggiore and Winrent provide car hire.

Business facilities: There is no dedicated business centre but the Masaccio Lounge on the first floor of departures has a self-service bar, newspapers, satellite TV and telephones.

Transport to the city: The ‘fly by bus’ Vola in Bus (tel: (800) 424 500; website: www.ataf.net) shuttle service departs approximately every 30 minutes between 0600-2030, then every hour to 2330. Tickets cost ¬4 and are available for purchase on board. The shuttle drops passengers off at Florence’s central railway station (journey time - 15-30 minutes).

Taxis (tel: (055) 4242 or 4390) to the centre cost approximately ¬20 (journey time – 30 minutes, depending on traffic).

Approximate flight times to Florence: From London is 2 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 12 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 18 hours 50 minutes; from Toronto is 12 hours 50 minutes and from Sydney is 21 hours 25 minutes.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Italy has an excellent network of motorways (autostrada), designated by the letter ‘A’. The main north-south link is the Autostrada del Sole, which links Milan with Reggio Calabria in the toe of Italy. Speed limits on motorways are 130kph (81mph) for cars of 1100cc or more and 110kph (68mph) for smaller cars. All motorways are tolled – driving from Florence to Rome will cost approximately ¬13. Visitors on a budget may prefer the strade statali (designated by ‘SS’), which are toll free and are often fast, multi-lane carriageways. The speed limit on these roads is 110kph (68mph) – too slow for the speed obsessed Italians and therefore a more leisurely drive for the rest of the world. Strade bianche, small country roads, abound in the countryside around Florence and are well worth exploring for their picture postcard views of the Italian countryside.

By law, both driver and passenger must wear their seatbelts, if fitted, or face an on-the-spot fine of ¬30. Random breath tests can be imposed and the penalties for drink driving are severe – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%. Speeding fines follow EU standards and are levied between ¬30.50 and ¬500, depending on the speed, while driving through a red light costs ¬60.50. The minimum age for driving is 18 years old. All those without an EU licence must carry an International Driving Permit. EU nationals taking their own car will need an International Insurance Certificate, also known as a Green Card (Carta Verde). It is compulsory to travel with a warning triangle in the car.

Autostrade (tel: (055) 420 3200 or 420 3250; website: www.autostrade.it) provides information on motorway traffic in Italy, while Automobile Club Italiana – ACI (tel: (06) 49981 or 4477 for 24-hour information; website: www.aci.it) provides general information for drivers.

Emergency breakdown service:
ACI 116

Routes to the city: The central road artery of Italy, the A1, links Florence to Milan, Bologna, Rome and Naples. Depending on the direction of approach, access is via the first exit marked ‘Firenze’ (Nord or Sud). From there, signs for the city centre are marked (centro). There are tourist offices along the A1, north and south of the city, if navigation proves tricky. The Autostrada del Mare (A11) is the main road to Pisa and the coast, linking the city to Tuscan towns such as Lucca, Prato and Siena.

Approximate driving times to Florence: From Bologna – 1 hour; Rome – 2 hours; Milan – 3 hours.

Coach services: International coaches depart from Lazzi Station, Piazza Adua 1 (tel: (055) 215 155 or 351 061; website: www.lazzi.it), next to the train station of Santa Maria Novella. In collaboration with Eurolines (tel: (055) 357 110; website: www.eurolines.it), the station operates an extensive coach service to major European cities, including Barcelona, Budapest, Vienna, Brussels, Paris and Prague. The station shares facilities with the nearby train station, Firenze SMN (see Getting There By Rail).

For domestic travel, the blue SITA (tel: (055) 294 955 or (800) 373 760; website: www.sita-on-line.it) coaches arrive and depart from the Sita Bus Station, Via Santa Caterina da Siena, west of the train station. The fast service to Siena is the most direct way for travellers to reach Florence’s medieval neighbour. There are also services to Arezzo, Poggibonsi and the wine towns of Chianti (Castellina, Radda and Gaiole).

Getting There By Rail

The Italian state railway is Ferrovie dello Stato (tel: (147) 888 088; website: www.trenitalia.com), which is reliable and fairly priced, although hefty supplements can be added depending on the type of train (Diretto, Inter-Regionale or InterCity). By law, passengers must validate their train tickets, by stamping them in the yellow machines on the platform before boarding – failure to do so can result in a large fine.

Services operate from the central train station in Florence, Santa Maria Novella or Firenze SMN, 1 Piazza Unita’Italiana, which is known as Piazza della Stazione (tel: (055) 235 2061 or 892 021). Situated in the north of the city, the station takes its name from the nearby church and provides a good orientation point. Facilities include an all-night pharmacy, a bureau de change, left-luggage and an accommodation booking service. The squat building at the far end of the station complex is a tourist information office.

Rail services: Florence is on the main Rome-Milan line, which ensures a fast service to Italy’s most important business and tourist centres. Services include the InterCity, with links to Milan (journey times – 2 hours 45 minutes) and Rome (journey time – 1 hour 40 minutes) and the express service, which links the city to Naples (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes). Both services are subject to supplementary fares. For rail access to ports, there are regular trains to Venice, changing at Bologna (journey time – 3 hours 15 minutes), or on a fast direct service (journey time – 3 hours) and to Genoa, changing at Pisa (journey time – 3 hours 50 minutes). The EuroCity train service links Florence to more than 40 other European destinations, including Paris, Basel, Munich and Brussels.

Transport to the city: Buses stop at the station, although it is just a 10-minute walk to the city’s key attractions. Visitors should follow Via de’ Panzani, then Via de’ Cerretani to reach Brunelleschi’s Duomo in the heart of Renaissance Florence, or catch bus 14 or ecological bus line A.

Getting Around

Public Transport
There is a comprehensive bus network run by Azienda Trasporti Area Fiorentina – ATAF (tel: (800) 424 500, daily 0700-2000; website: www.ataf.net). The bus network operates 0530-2400. Tickets cost ¬1 and are valid for 60 minutes, allowing the holder to change buses or make a return journey within the hour. Tickets are available for purchase at newsagents (shop signs with a capital T for tabacchi), most coffee bars at Box Ataf in Piazza Stazione and at automatic ticket dispensers. They are also available on board the bus but only between 2100 and 0600 and even then at a marked-up price of ¬1.50.

Travellers must validate their tickets by punching them in the machine on board the bus. A number of bus passes are available, starting with a three-hour pass for ¬1.80 and the 24-hour pass for ¬4.50 and rising to the more extensive two-day pass for ¬7.60, three-day pass for ¬8.60 and seven-day pass for ¬16. These are also available at newsagents, coffee bars and automatic ticket dispensers.

However, the best way for one to get around Florence is to walk. The city centre is compact and most of the sights are marked by the clusters of camera-wheeling tourists. Tourists should invest in a good street map, although getting lost in the cobbled alleyways is a pleasure in itself.

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the streets, although they rarely stop. It is better for tourists to hire them at taxi ranks (located outside the train station and at most tourist destinations) or telephone for one in advance. Taxis are operated by Radio-Taxi (tel: (055) 4242 or 4390 or 4499 or 4798; website: www.comune.firenze.it/tariffe/taxi/htm). The minimum fare is currently ¬5 but with a base charge of ¬2.50 and a running charge of about ¬0.80 per kilometre, this can mount up quickly. There are also additional supplements charged for luggage (there is a maximum of four pieces), calling a taxi, night-time travel or travelling on a Sunday. A tip of 10-15% of the fare is customary.

Limousines
Luxury cars, chauffeured by English-speaking drivers, are provided by International Limousine Service (tel: (041) 520 6565; fax: (041) 520 8396; website: www.limointernational.com) and the Florence-based Mundocars (tel/fax: (055) 598 644; website: www.mundolimousine.com). A Mercedes 200 costs just under ¬400 for eight hours of hire. Stretch limousines should be reserved in advance and cost around ¬700 for eight hours.

Driving in the City
With such a compact city centre, there is little point in bringing a car to Florence. Traffic in the city centre (centro storico) is severely restricted at all times, meaning that it is off limits to anyone who is not a doctor, a delivery man, a taxi driver, or anyone staying in one of the luxury hotels in the city centre. (Visitors staying in such luxury hotels are allowed to drive their car in for the purposes of parking only.)

For visitors making a day trip to Florence by car, the best option is to park in the guarded parking spaces where the cost is ¬1.50 for each of the first two hours, then ¬2 for each successive hour. Blue parking zones have a maximumum stay of two hours, while yellow parking spaces have a cost of ¬1 for the first hour and ¬5 for each successive hour. Sightseers determined to spare their pins but not their pennies, could try the underground car park at Piazza della Stazione, which costs ¬2 per hour for the first two hours, then ¬3 per hour. Otherwise, visitors should park at Parterre, near the Piazza della Calza, or Oltrana near Porta Romana, – where a tourist pass costs ¬15 for 24 hours as long as you are staying at least one night in the city and ¬55 for one week. Scratch and Park cards can also be purchased at outlets such as some tabacchi and pasticcerie (addresses given on website) which can be convenient if you have no small change. Information on parking in the city is available from Firenze Parcheggi (tel: (055) 500 1994 or 503 021; website: www.firenzeparcheggi.it).

Car Hire
Several major car hire companies have offices in the city, including Avis, Borgo Ognissanti 128r (tel: (055) 213 629; website: www.avisautonoleggio.it), Hertz, Via Maso Finiguerra 33r (tel: (055) 239 8205; website: www.hertz.it), and Maggiore, Via Maso Finiguerra 11r (tel: (055) 294 578; website: www.maggiore.it).

In order to hire a car, drivers must be at least 23 years old, depending on company policy. All drivers without an EU licence must carry an International Driving Permit. Despite the popularity of motoring holidays, car hire in Italy is expensive, costing around ¬225-700 a week. Basic insurance is usually included in the price with further insurance an optional extra, although the terms of this should always be checked.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
To blend in with the cruising Romeos, visitors can hire a scooter or moped from Alinari, Via Guelfa 85r (tel: (055) 280 500; website: www.alinarirental.com), just north of the market place. Scooters cost from ¬8 an hour or ¬28 a day. The minimum age for renting a scooter or motorbike is 18 years. Outdoor types, fond of scaling the Florentine hills, can hire a mountain bike from Alinari, from ¬18 a day. The less hardy visitors can freewheel over the Ponte Vecchio on a more basic bike, with prices starting at ¬12 for a day.

Florence by bike, Via S Sanobi 120-122r (tel: (055) 488 992; website: www.florencebybike.it), also hires out bicycles and scooters. A 50cc scooter costs ¬23 for five hours, rising to ¬150 for one week, while mountain bikes cost from ¬3.70 per hour to ¬46.50 for three days and city bikes ¬2.70 per hour or ¬32 for three days.

Electric cars can also be rented in the city center from Elettrocarental, Via del Ponte Sospeso 8A (tel: (055) 714 854; website: www.sologiallo.it). One hour’s hire costs from ¬18, and hire for one day cost from ¬66.

Business

Business Profile
The small-scale craftsmanship that gave rise to Florence’s dramatic flowering of genius continues to flourish in the city’s narrow back streets. Handmade leather shoes and bags, exquisite marbled stationery and terracotta ornaments are just some of the goods imported around the world. Sales of wine and olive oil have boomed outside the Mediterranean since the 1970s, turning the ubiquitous olive juice into liquid gold. Tuscany’s produce is widely considered to be the best and is snapped up all over the world. Chianti, too, has reinvented itself, throwing off the kitsch straw-covered flasks in favour of sleek square-shouldered bottles with serious attitude.

From its early days in wool and banking to the goldsmiths and fashion designers of today, Florence has grown fat on its mercantile enterprise. Families like the Antinori (wine) and the Strozzi (banking) continue to flourish in the city alongside international business. But it is the year-round tourist industry that has contributed most heavily to the city’s bulging coffers. The tourism industry has fallen (by 5.5% in 2003) but over half the city is employed, directly or indirectly, by the tourism sector. Aside from the staffing of museums, tourist offices, restaurants and hotels, Florence also leads the way in restoration, creating techniques that are adopted the world over.

Despite the noise and traffic pollution, the quality of life in the city is excellent with unemployment figures at 4.0%, about half the national average of 7.9%. The rate of inflation in Italy is 2.3%. Florence has one of the highest standards of living in Italy.

The three main venues for business events and conventions in Florence are the Fortezza da Basso, the Palazzo dei Congressi and the Palazzo Affarri. The latter two are located in the city centre, close to the railway station and all the major attractions, and this is where the most part of the city’s commercial activity takes place too.

Business Etiquette
It is important for one to distinguish between an Italian’s laid-back attitude to life and their more formal approach to business. While Florentines are immensely proud of their city and will enjoy showing off its best restaurants and finest wines, a certain degree of formality should be maintained for business matters. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and punctuality is respected. Business cards are commonly exchanged by way of introduction. Smart dress is appropriate, as is a high degree of respect – Italian associates should always be addressed as Lei (the polite form of Tu), unless otherwise indicated. Although many executives will speak English, it is advisable to conduct business in Italian if possible – Italians always appreciate a visitor who tries to speak their language, however poorly.

It is common for the entertaining of clients to take place over lunch with wine offered. Evening entertainment again would be in a restaurant, or to the theatre (opera is very popular). While it is less common for an invitation to be to a business colleague’s home, a gift of wine, chocolate or flowers for the host’s wife/husband would be appropriate. Normal business hours are Monday-Friday 0900-1700, and much of the city closes for August.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Most visitors are overwhelmed by the artistic minefield of Florence – they spend their holiday dashing from one masterpiece to the next, with their nose stuck in a guidebook and their eyes glued to a video camera, dazzled by an excess of genius. The cultural heritage of Florence cannot be ignored. Cradle of the Renaissance and home of the Medici family (Italy’s most progressive art patrons) it houses some of the world’s greatest treasures.

The River Arno meanders through the city, with the Duomo situated on the north bank. The Piazza della Signoria, once the hub of Florence’s political machinations, remains a central reference point for visitors and citizens alike. Visitors can linger over a coffee in one of the square’s gilded cafés and admire the powerful hulk of Michelangelo’s David (a copy) guarding the city’s Palazzo Vecchio, Florence’s town hall since 1322. An array of sculptures, including Cellini’s Perseus brandishing the head of Medusa and Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women, stand under the square’s loggia – an impressive overspill from the nearby Uffizi Gallery. Passing tourists admire the rusticated palazzi that line the square, their solid style underscored by a light Renaissance touch, whose origins can be found in the family palaces of the Strozzi and Rucellai repeated all over Florence.

The square’s landmark crenellated tower, the Torre d’Arnolfo, can be seen best from Piazzale Michelangelo (a balcony over Florence with spectacular views of terracotta roofs, the River Arno and Brunelleschi’s portly dome) all backed by the rolling hills of Chianti. It is the sight of a thousand picture postcards and Merchant Ivory film shots, but it never fails to take your breath away.

Tourist Information
Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT)
Via Cavour 1r
Tel: (055) 290 832. Fax: (055) 276 0383.
E-mail: infoturismo@provincia.fi.it
Website: www.firenzeturismo.it
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1830 and Sun 0830-1330.

Other branches are located outside the central station, at the airport, at Via Manzoni 16 and in Borgo Santa Croce, near the church.

Passes
There are special tickets available at some museums, which allow the holder a discount on the entrance price of other participating attractions. Special passes for the Palazzo Pitti (including the Galleria Palatina, Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Galleria del Costume, Museo degli Argenti, Museo delle Porcellane and Giardino di Boboli) cost ¬10.50 (¬8 after 1600) and are valid for three days. The Argenti-Boboli pass covers the Giardino di Boboli, Museo delle Porcellane and Museo degli Argenti, costs ¬4 and is valid for three days. Tourists can also purchase an Accademia-Opificio ticket, which gives entry to the Galleria dell’Accademia and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure and costs ¬7. It is also valid for three days (but does not apply during exhibitions).

The passes are available for purchase at participating venues. Given the queues, visitors to Florence should perhaps consider booking tickets in advance (tel: (055) 294 883). There is a ¬3 surcharge for reserved tickets for the state museums.

Key Attractions

Galleria degli Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery)
The most important art collection in Italy and one of the richest in the world is usually heralded by the burr of foreign tongues from the queues of tourists that snake across the courtyard. Located in Vasari’s majestic Uffizi Palace, the Uffizi Gallery houses the Medici art collection bequeathed to Florence in 1737, on the condition that it never leaves the city. The impressive résumé of Italian and in particular Florentine art is arranged to illustrate how evolving techniques and ideas influenced the artists. The huge collection is really too big for one to tackle at a single sitting, however, visitors with limited time should ensure they take a peek at rooms seven to 18. These include some of the city’s biggest draws – Botticelli’s mythological masterpieces, The Birth of Venus and Primavera (Spring) and Leonardo Da Vinci’s Annunciation. Early rooms concentrate on medieval art with a particular bent towards the Sienese school, exemplified by Duccio, Martini and Giotto. The latter end of the gallery features work from the Umbrian and Venetian schools, including Titian, Tintoretto and Raphael.

Piazzale degli Uffizi 6
Tel: (055) 238 8651 (294 883 to book tickets in advance) Fax: (055) 238 8699.
E-mail: uffizi@mac.uffizi.firenze.it
Website: www.uffizi.firenze.it or www.polomuseale.firenze.it/uffizi
Transport: Bus 23 or B.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 08.15-18.35 (last entry 1800).
Admission: ¬9.50 (plus ¬3 to reserve in advance); concessions available.

Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square)
Brunelleschi’s gravity-defying dome dominates the Florence skyline and defines the city. The double-skinned dome that sits atop the city’s candy-coloured Duomo (cathedral) was an architectural breakthrough, since Brunelleschi invented an entirely new way of counteracting the weight of the dome, thus building the largest self-supporting dome since classical times. The cathedral (built under the proviso that it be the largest house of worship in Christendom, a feat eventually claimed by St Peter’s Cathedral in Rome) took 150 years to complete. Its original façade was pulled down on the orders of Ferdinand I in 1587. The Duomo remained faceless for nearly 300 years, until 1887. Described by Ruskin as a ‘Chinese puzzle’, the lavish pink, white and green marble frontage belies a cavernous interior that is surprisingly free from decoration. Once inside, most people look heavenward – pausing to admire Giorgio Vasari’s recently restored frescoes in the cupola – before climbing the 463 steps for a spectacular view over the city.

Tall, slender and straight-backed, the Campanile (bell tower) is the graceful sidekick to Brunelleschi’s stout Duomo. Built according to Giotto’s designs, in 1334, the Campanile was completed after its creator’s death, by Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti. The tower is decorated with two garlands of bas-reliefs, strung around its rose-tinted façade. Higher up, sculptures of the Prophets and Sybils, carved by Donatello, look down upon the city below. The original pieces are now in the Grande Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum). Visitors can climb the 414 steps of the Campanile, for the rewarding views over the piazza, which afford a closer inspection of the Duomo and Brunelleschi’s rusty crown, once described by the architect Alberti as ‘large enough to shelter all the people of Tuscany in its shadow.’

The adjacent Baptistery completes the trio. This provided the inspiration for both the Campanile and Duomo façades. Originally believed to be a pagan temple, the octagonal building is the oldest in Florence. It is famous for its gilded bronze doors, particularly those on the east side, dubbed the Gates of Paradise. Executed by Lorenzo Ghiberti (‘with the greatest diligence and the greatest love’) over a period of 27 years, each of the 10 bronze bas-reliefs tells a story from the Old Testament, with astonishing realism and compassion. Nowadays, most are copies, the originals having been moved to the Cathedral Museum for restoration and safekeeping. Ghiberti, the most self-satisfied of artists, preserved his own balding image in the frame of the door, fourth in from the left-hand side.

Piazza del Duomo
Tel: (055) 230 2885.
Transport: Bus 14 or 23.

Duomo (Cathedral)
Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-1630, Sat 1000-1645 (1st Sat each month 1000-1530), Sun 1330-1645 (last entry 40 minutes before closing).
Admission: Free.

Cupola (Dome)
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1900, Sat 0830-1740 (first Sat each month 0830-1600) (last entry 40 minutes before closing).
Admission: ¬6; concessions available.

Grande Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum)
Piazza del Duomo 9
Website: www.operaduomo.firenze.it
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1930, Sun 0900-1340 (last entry 40 minutes before closing).
Admission: ¬6; concessions available.

Campanile (Bell Tower)
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1930 (last entry 40 minutes before closing).
Admission: ¬6; concessions available.

Baptistery Piazza di San Giovanni
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1200-1830 and Sun and holidays 0830-1330. Closed Easter Sun, 8 Sept.
Admission: ¬3; concessions available.

Galleria dell’Accademia (Accademia Gallery)
While Florence offers a panoply of artworks, most people associate the city with just one masterpiece – Michelangelo’s David. The huge statue occupies pride of place in the city’s Accademia Gallery, dwarfing the multitude of chattering tourists who stand in awe before him. The statue was carved from a single block of marble in 1502, when the artist was just 29 years old. Its exaggerated size and musculature is a symbol of the new-born Republic that briefly cast out the Medici – the city’s ‘Goliath’. Also in the gallery are Michelangelo’s unfinished Slaves, which stand captive in blocks of marble, from which their forms seem to struggle to escape.

Via Ricasoli 60
Tel: (055) 238 8612. Fax: (050) 238 8609.
E-mail: galleriaaccademia@polomuseale.firenze.it
Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/accademia
Transport: Bus 1 or 17, or C.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1850.
Admission: ¬6.50 (¬9.50 in summer); concessions available.

Ponte Vecchio (Vecchio Bridge)
Even the dogs of war could not bring themselves to destroy the Ponte Vecchio – the only bridge to survive the Nazi bombing of Florence during World War II. Nowadays, the famous 14th-century bridge is literally paved with gold (home to Florence’s gold and silversmiths) and is a prime shopping trap for the city’s affluent tourists. It was Cosimo de Medici who first created the mood for change, when he ordered the previous occupants (a motley crew of butchers, accustomed to throwing their bloody leftovers into the River Arno) to make room for a more genteel trade. High above the shops, a secret passageway known as the Corrodoio Vasariano links the Uffizi Gallery to the Pitti Palace. Built by Vasari, it was intended to shield the powerful Medici family from the Florentine riffraff, as they journeyed from one palace to the other. Lined with portraits of the city’s greatest artists, the passage reopened to the public in 1997, although opening times are erratic due to staffing problems. Visits can be booked on special request, via the tourist office.

Between Via de ‘Guicciardini and Via Por Santa Maria
Transport: Bus B.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; on special request (Corrodoio Vasariano).
Admission: Free (bridge and Corrodoio Vasariano).

Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Bargello National Museum)
The grim façade of the Palazzo del Bargello, formerly the city’s jail and torture chamber, is a daunting introduction to Tuscany’s most impressive collection of Renaissance sculpture. Masterpieces by Cellini, Donatello and Michelangelo are arranged over three floors and overflow into the Palace’s handsome courtyard, where many a Florentine lost his head. Donatello captures the spirit of the early Renaissance best, with his sensual David and his watchful St George, who once graced the façade of Orsanmichele. Cellini’s exquisite bronze statuary outshines the somewhat staid Michelangelo on display, while Giambologna’s Mercury should not be missed. Two bronze panels by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi, depicting the Sacrifice of Isaac, provide a compelling comparison. Both artists entered the panels in a competition to win the commission to cast the north doors of the Baptistery. Both won, although Brunelleschi refused to work in partnership with Ghiberti and instead went on to construct the cathedral dome – a veritable artistic snub.

Via del Proconsolo 4
Tel: (055) 238 8606. Fax: (051) 238 8756.
E-mail: museobargello@libero.it
Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/bargello
Transport: Bus 14.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0815-1350, last entry 1320; open on the second and fourth Mon of each month and on the first, third and fifth Sun of each month.
Admission: ¬4; concessions available.

Santa Croce
The elegant Franciscan church of Santa Croce has tended to overwhelm the visitor and is held responsible for the little known disease, Stendhal’s Condition. When the French writer, Stendhal, visited the church, he suffered a fainting fit brought on by its beauty and apparently this continues to afflict up to 12 visitors a year. Lord Byron reported himself ‘drunk with Beauty’ at the sight of the church, which is attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, the architect responsible for the Duomo. Its broad piazza, once the site of jousts, wild animal fights and the burning of heretics, is today home to miniature Davids and plaster cast Virgins, as souvenir stalls ply their trade to visitors weakened by stendhalismo. The big draw inside the Gothic interior is death. Some of Italy’s most gifted men are buried here, including Michelangelo (whose body was smuggled out of Rome in a packing case), Machiavelli, Galileo, Rossini and Ghiberti. Dante’s tomb lies empty – the forefather of Italian literature died in Ravenna and the city refused to return his corpse, in spite of Florentine pleas. A series of colourful chapels, their frescoes commissioned by wealthy bankers, lift the gloom. Those in the Bardi Chapel are considered some of Giotto’s best. Outside, in the tranquil cloisters, stands a Renaissance gem, the Pazzi Chapel, designed by Brunelleschi in 1430. The pure geometric design is an indication of the renewed influence of classicism over Gothic forms.

Piazza Santa Croce
Tel: (055) 244 619 or 246 6105.
Transport: Bus 14 or 23.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1730, Sun 1300-1730 (last entry 1700).
Admission: ¬4 (combined ticket with Museum Santa Croce); concessions available.

Santa Maria Novella
The zebra-striped façade of Santa Maria Novella, completed by Leon Battista Alberti in 1470, is the starting point of many a tour of Florence. Situated near the city’s train station, to which it lends its name, the graceful scrolls, Gothic arches and classical pediments combine to form one of Florence’s most dramatic façades. Alongside Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella (home to the Dominican order) was the most important church in the city. A fresco cycle by the city’s top social painter, Ghirlandaio, depicting the lives of the Virgin Mary and St John the Baptist, is peopled with Florentine society. But the highlight of the lofty interior is Masaccio’s Trinity (1427), a fresco displaying outstanding use of perspective, which marked a breakthrough in Renaissance painting. Miraculously, the flat wall becomes a recessed vault bearing the crucified figure of Christ. Behind him, deep within Masaccio’s coffered chapel, God demands the viewer to acknowledge his sacrifice.

Piazza Santa Maria Novella
Tel: (055) 215 918 or 282 187.
Transport: Bus A, 36 or 37.
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs and Sat 0930-1700, Fri and Sun 1300-1700.
Admission: ¬4; concessions available.

Museo di San Marco (San Marco Museum)
Rebuilt at the behest of Cosimo de Medici, this Dominican convent was home to Fra Angelico, as well as the fanatical Girolamo Savonarola. The ‘mad monk’ famously preached damnation upon the Florentines and exhorted them to burn their books and paintings on the Bonfire of the Vanities. Savonarola is depicted in a haunting portrait in the Corsini Gallery, himself being burned at the stake in Piazza della Signoria. More important are the works of Fra Angelico, a gentle and devout monk whose luminous frescoes, painted as a focal point for the monks’ meditations, adorn each of the preserved monk’s cells. The deep religious conviction inherent within each fresco is emphasised by the stark simplicity of their setting. At the head of the stairs lies the most powerful of them all, The Annunciation, a striking representation of the young Mary’s fear and astonishment as she learns she is to be the Mother of Christ.

Piazza San Marco 3
Tel: (055) 238 8608. Fax: (055) 238 8704.
Transport: Bus C, 1, 6 or 10.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0815-1350, Sat 0815-1850; second and fourth Sun of each month 0815-1900; first, third and fifth Mon of each month 0815-1350.
Admission: ¬4, concessions available.

Cappella Brancacci (Brancacci Chapel)
The area on the other side of the river, known as Oltrarno, was not even a part of Florence until the city walls expanded in the 12th century, to encompass it. Even today, Oltrarno has a character of its own. The slower pace of life is accompanied by less showy buildings and fewer tourists, rewarding the adventurous with a taste of everyday life in Florence. The reason most visitors make the trek across the river, however, is to see the famous Brancacci Chapel, which is situated inside the church of Santa Maria del Carmine.

Miraculously salvaged from a fire in the 18th century, the chapel is home to frescoes by Masaccio, his pupil Masolino and Filippino Lippi. Masaccio’s crisp retelling of The Tribute Money, set against the background of Renaissance Florence, is snappily executed with bright colours and comic asides, in sharp contrast to his mournful Expulsion from Paradise. Both the Paradise fresco and Masolino’s Temptation of Adam and Eve were propelled into the public eye in the late 1980s, when they underwent restoration to remove the bogus foliage, added on by prudish Victorians, to cover up the genitalia. Visits to the chapel are restricted to 15 minutes.

Piazza del Carmine
Tel: (055) 238 2195 or 276 8224.
Transport: Bus D.
Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Sat 1000-1700 (reservation required), Sun 1300-1700.
Admission: ¬4; concessions available.

Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels)
The stunning Medici Chapels were built by the powerful Medici family, to serve as their mausoleums and were intended to reflect the immense wealth and influence of this mighty family. The Chapel of the Princes is decorated with semi-precious stones and dotted with works of art, while the New Sacresty was designed by Michelangelo. Entering the chapels is rather like stepping into a large box of jewellery.
Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini 6
Tel: (055) 238 8602.
Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/cappellemedicee
Transport: Bus A.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0815-1700; second and fourth Mon of each month 0815-1700; first, third and fifth Sun of each month 0815-1700.
Admission: ¬6; concessions available.

Further Distractions

Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens
Across the river, in Oltrarno, lies the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Built in 1440, for the wealthy Pitti family, this monstrous palace was intended as a challenge to the omnipotent Medici. The architectural snub was short-lived, however, when the family fortunes dwindled and the palace was acquired by their rivals.

It is best for visitors to start early in the day, as the palace now houses a number of museums and galleries, including the lavishly decorated State Apartments. Most visitors only make it around the Galleria Palatina, which houses yet more paintings from the Medici collection. Rubens, Titian and Raphael, wrapped in heavy gilt frames, vie for attention amid frescoed ceilings and opulent furnishings. Museums on site are the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Gallery of Modern Art), Galleria del Costume (Costume Gallery), Museo degli Argenti (Silver Museum) and Museo delle Porcellane (Porcelain Museum).

Visitors at saturation point might choose to skip all the galleries and head straight for the Boboli Gardens, a haven of fountains, grottoes and shady walks, populated by local cats and perfect for sun-drenched picnics. The carpet of medieval Florence rolls away beyond the palace – visitors are advised to crack open the Chianti, unwrap the salami and slip back into the Middle Ages.

Piazza Pitti
Tel: (055) 238 8615 or (055) 244 883.
Transport: Bus D.
Opening hours: As for separate museum opening hours (see below).
Admission: Free; ¬10.50 (combined pass for all museums); concessions available.

Galleria Palatina
Tel: (055) 238 8614. Fax: (055) 238 8613.
Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/palatina
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1850.
Admission: ¬8.50; concessions available.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna
Tel: (055) 238 8601 or 8616. Fax: (055) 265 4520.
E-mail: gam@polomuseale.firenze.it
Website: www. polomuseale.firenze.it/gam
Opening hours: Daily 0815-1350, closed second and fourth Sun and first, third and fifth Mon of each month
Admission: ¬5 (combined with Galleria del Costume); concessions available.

Galleria del Costume
Tel: (055) 238 8713. Fax: (055) 2388713.
E-mail: costume.pitti@virgilio.it
Website: www. polomuseale.firenze.it/gam
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0815-1350; second and fourth Mon 0815-1350 of each month; first, third and fifth Sun of each month 0815-1350.
Admission: ¬5 (combined with Galleria d’Arte Moderna); concessions available.

Museo degli Argenti
Tel: (055) 238 8709 or 8761. Fax: (055) 238 8699.
Website: www. polomuseale.firenze.it/argenti
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1630 Nov-Feb, closes at 1730 Mar; 1830 Apr, May and Oct; 1930 Jun-Sept; Mon opens in middle of month, closed first and last Mon of each month.
Admission: ¬4 (combined with Museo delle Procellane); ¬6 in peak season; concessions available.

Museo delle Porcellane
Tel: (055) 238 8605. Fax: (055) 238 8699.
Website: www. polomuseale.firenze.it/argenti
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1630 Nov-Feb, closes at 1730 Mar; 1830 Apr, May and Oct; 1930 Jun-Sept; Mon opens in middle of month, closed first and last Mon of each month.
Admission: ¬4 (combined with Museo degli Argenti); ¬6 in peak season; concessions available.

Boboli Gardens
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1630 Nov-Feb, closes at 1730 Mar; 1830 Apr, May and Oct; 1930 Jun-Sept; also opens 2nd and 3rd Mon of month, closed first and last Mon of each month
Admission: ¬4 (combined ticket with Museo degli Argenti and Museo delle Porcellane); ¬6 in peak season; concessions available.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Visitors can arrange a private walking tour or book one of the daily guided tours around Florence’s key attractions through Mercurio (tel: (055) 266 141; website: www.mercurio-italy.org). Walks include a tour of the Uffizi Gallery, departing from the reservations entrance at 1300 (Tuesday-Saturday), as well as a tour of the Academy, Pitti Palace and a Florence Past & Present city tour, which departs from the Ponte Vecchio. The short walking tours range from 90 minutes to two hours thirty minutes and cost from ¬27 (including entry tickets). Commentary is from English-speaking local experts and advance reservations are required.

A number of walking tours are also offered by The Original and Best Walking Tours (tel: (055) 264 5033; website: www.artviva.com), often departing from Piazza Santo Stefano. The ‘Original Florence Walk’ departs from the company’s office, Piazza Santo Stefano 2, taking in the highlights of the city with tales from the past. The tour takes three hours and costs ¬25.

Bus Tours
There is no point for visitors to take a bus tour around Florence, seeing as the entire city, from north to south, can be covered on foot in just half an hour. Most of the attractions are closely grouped together and signposted by the whirr of camera shutters. Visitors who are lost and do not feel up to asking directions should follow the umbrella hovering above the crowds – it is guaranteed to be guiding a band of tourists to another one of the city’s attractions.

However, for visitors determined to take a bus tour, CAF Tours (tel: (055) 210 612 or 283 200; website: www.caftours.com) and CentralSita Viaggi (tel: (055) 219 383; website: www.sita-on-line.it) both operate tours of the main city sites. There are daily departures at 0930 and 1430 from Piazza Stazione. These three-hour bus tours cost ¬39.

Bike Tours
I Bike Italy (tel: (055) 234 2371; e-mail: tour_info@ibikeitaly.com; website: www.ibikeitaly.com) offers excursions into the Tuscan hills on mountain bikes. Full-day trips (0900-1700) are available at ¬70, including lunch and a tour of one of the local vineyards. Bookings are taken in English over the telephone and a pick-up point in Florence is arranged.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Fiesole: Sooner or later, everybody needs a break from Florence. The surfeit of culture can leave the visitor footsore and light-headed. The English poet Laurie Lee fled to the Tuscan hills, exclaiming: ‘I’d had my fill of Florence & my eyes were choked with pictures and frescoes & their colours running. I began to long for those cool uplands, that country air&’

Visitors in search of those ‘cool uplands’ should head for the lush olive groves and valleys of Fiesole. Situated 8km (5 miles) from Florence, it is just a short bus ride away – bus 7 from Piazza del Duomo, to be exact. Formerly an Etruscan settlement founded in the seventh century BC, Fiesole grew in importance under the Romans who left behind a 3,000-seat amphitheatre that is still used for outdoors concerts in the summer. The Archaeological Park also features Roman baths, a Roman temple and an Etruscan temple, set against Etruscan city walls. In the town, it is difficult for any man-made attraction to compete with the glorious views over Florence. Besides, the Florentines left visitors little choice when they ransacked the town in 1125, leaving only the Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace standing.

Today, a smattering of shops and trattorie surround the cathedral, which contains some of the best works of the local sculptor, Mino da Fiesole. Gluttons for punishment can visit the Museo Bandini, Via Dupre (tel: (055) 59118 or 59416), which is open daily 0930-1900 (summer), Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 0930-1700 (winter). The museum is closed on the first Tuesday of each month and admission is ¬6.50, for a combined ticket with the Museo Archeologico (archaeological park).

On the way home, those travelling by car should take the SS-65, for a look at some of the opulent Medici Villas, now fighting to survive the encroaching suburban sprawl. The Fiesole tourist office, Via Portigiani (tel: (055) 598 720 or 837 213; fax: (055) 597 8373; website: www.comune.fiesole.fi.it), can provide further information.

For a Whole Day

Siena: Located some 50km (31 miles) south of Florence, medieval Siena is often seen as the female counterfoil to Renaissance Florence. At her heart lies the magnificent shell-like piazza, Il Campo, scene of the famous bareback horse race, Il Palio, which whips the town into a frenzy, twice a year. One day is not long enough for one to appreciate all that this tiny, walled city has to offer. Must-sees include the humbug-striped cathedral decried by Ruskin as ‘a piece of costly confectionery’ and the majestic Palazzo Pubblico (town hall) topped by the soaring Torre del Mangia. Named after the medieval bell-ringer, the tower should be climbed for magnificent views of the city and hills beyond. Inside the town hall is the Museo Civico, where tourists flock to see Simone Martini’s Guidoriccio (the famous Sienese captain and standard-bearer of the city) and Lorenzetti’s Effects of Good and Bad Government (a vivid allegory painted against the backdrop of 14th-century Siena). The city’s best-loved work, Duccio’s Maesta, lies in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. The devotional picture of the Madonna, enthroned among saints and angels, once graced the cathedral altar, her blue robes setting off the church’s starry vaults. No visit is complete without a wander through Siena’s cool, warren-like streets that wind around Il Campo, like arteries feeding the city’s pulsating heart. Visitors can drop into one of the city’s pasticceria for a slice of Sienese panforte or mingle with the students, seeping up the sun in the Campo, over a slice of freshly baked pizza.

From Florence, Siena is best reached by bus. No cars are allowed into the city and Siena’s train station is on a branch line, making it necessary to change. Coaches depart from the SITA station on Via Santa Caterina, by the main railway station, at least every hour (journey time - approximately 1 hour 15 minutes). Price ¬6.50 single. The Siena tourist office is located at Piazza del Campo 56 (tel: (0577) 280 551; fax: (0577) 281 041; e-mail: infoaptsiena@terresiena.it; website: www.comune.siena.it/turismo).

Sport

Football is a national passion in Italy. It takes priority over food, politics and religion. In Florence, the citizens celebrate their patron saint day (24 June) with a historic football match in medieval dress and even during this so-called ‘friendly’ match, passions can quickly boil over. Florence’s national football team, the Serie A Fiorentina (website: www.fiorentina.it), is among the best in Italy’s premier league. The team is distinguished by its cardinal purple strip, earning it the nickname La Viola (the violet). The team’s home ground is the Artemio Franchi Stadium, Viale Manfredo Fanti (tel/fax: (055) 571 324), and games are played on alternate Sundays, from September to May. Tickets are available at Chiosco degli Sportivi just off Piazza della Reppubblica, or from tabaccheria licensed by Lottomatica, or at cafes Bar Marisa and Bar Studio next to the Artemio Franchi. Seats cost from ¬18 to ¬130. Florence’s second football team is Rondinella Impruneta (website: www.rondinella-impruneta.it), with a home ground at Stadio ‘Due Stade’, Via Ximenez (for information, call the team coffee shop tel: (055) 218 606). The team plays in the D Girone E League.

Fitness Centres: Indoor Club, Via Bardazzi 15 (tel: (055) 430 275 or 430 703), has a sauna, swimming pool, weights and classes. It is open Monday-Thursday 1030-2300, Friday 1030-2200 and Saturday 1030-2000. One-day membership costs ¬15.50. Palestra Gymnasium, Via Palazzuolo 49 (tel: (055) 293 308; website: www.fol.it/gymtraining), has weights, aerobics, step classes and karate. It is open Monday-Friday 1000-2200 and Saturday 1000-1800. One-day membership costs ¬10.50. Pelestra Nonidical, Via Mannelli 183 (tel: (055) 572 618; website: www.nordical.it), is open 1000-2200 during the week and 1000-1800 on Saturday, offering body building, fitness classes and cardio fitness programmes.

Golf: The hills of ‘Chiantishire’ are not ideal for golf but visitors can test their handicap at two local clubs. The first, Golf Club Montelupo, Fattoria di Fibbiana, Via Le Piagge (tel: (0571) 541 004; website: www.golfmontelupo.it), offers a tight course of nine holes right on the banks of the Arno, 26km (16 miles) from the city centre. The second, Golf Club Ugolino, Via Chiantigiana (tel: (055) 230 1009; website: www.golfugolino.it), is an 18-hole course, just 10km (6 miles) from Florence and romantically located in an olive grove. Green fees start at ¬60 and a handicap below 36 is necessary. It is closed on Mondays from Nov-Mar. More information on golfing in Florence is available online (website: www.golfinginflorence.it).

Rowing: Societa Canottieri Firenze, Lungarno A M Luisa De’Medici (tel: (055) 282 1010; website: www.canottierifirenze.it), is a rowing club on the Arno. One-month membership costs approximately ¬62.

Tennis: Public tennis courts are situated at the Circolo Carraia, Via Monti alle Croci (tel: (055) 234 6353). Courts cost ¬13.50 per hour and are open 0800-2300. Other courts are at Circolo di Tennis, Via Scandicci Alto (tel: (055) 252 696), and Circolo del Tennis, Via dela Robbia Imprunta (tel: (055) 201 2111).

Shopping

Second only to culture in the city comes shopping. Florence has been a centre of craftsmanship since the Middle Ages, when shoemakers and goldsmiths were accorded the same status as artists and sculptors. Today, the city remains famous for its high-quality leather produce, goldsmiths and marbled paper. Artisans are still seen plying their trade in workshops all over the city. The area around Santa Croce is home to the city’s leather-makers, while the Oltrarno is cluttered with the workshops of local gold and silversmiths – although the Ponte Vecchio is home to the glitzier of such shops.

Designer boutiques cluster around the Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via Calzaiuoli, where Versace, Ferragamo, Gucci, Max Mara and Valentino all have stores. Other stores here are Locman, for watches, Tod’s and Hogan for shoes and handbags, and Fani for jewellery. Fashion aficionados should also visit Via della Vigna Nuova where Dolce e Gabbana and Mont Blanc are located, and Piazza degli Strozzi for Louis Vuitton and Escada. The more frugal can find copies in the open-air San Lorenzo Market, in Piazza San Lorenzo, northwest of the Duomo, which takes place every day, except for Mondays in winter. Leather belts and bags, silk scarves and soft wool jerseys can be picked up for a song – although it is advisable for shoppers to check the quality before buying. Nearby stands the covered food market, which is open from 0700-1400 Monday-Saturday. Bursting with olives, hams, cheeses and fresh vegetables, it is the perfect place for one to buy a picnic or just indulge a love of grub. The flea market at Piazza dei Ciompi specialises in antiques and collectable junk and provides an enjoyable rummage for the bargain-hunter. It is open every day, except for Sundays and Mondays in winter.

Specialist shops worth a visit include the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via Scala 16. Housed in a frescoed chapel, this old-fashioned chemist was founded by monks in the 16th century. Lotions, potions and herbal remedies abound in elegant packaging. More fascinating old remedies are at Alessandro Bizzarri, Via Condotta 32r, a 19th century shop with ancient bottles filled with herbs, oils, spices and old Florentine remedies. Handmade shoes created in time-honoured tradition are available for purchase at Francesco, Via Santo Spirito 62r, while Pineider is considered the most exclusive stationers in all Italy, having designed calling cards for Napoleon, Byron and Maria Callas, among others. As a general rule, shops open 0930-1300 and 1530-2000, although larger department stores and supermarkets may stay open throughout the day. Food shops are usually closed on Wednesday afternoons, or Saturday afternoons in the summer. Clothes shops are often closed on Monday mornings. There is limited opening on Sunday. Sales tax is 12-14%, depending on the value of goods purchased. Non-EU citizens should retain receipts for goods over ¬155 to reclaim their VAT (IVA). Global Refund (tel: (0331) 283 555; fax: (0331) 283 698/9; e-mail: taxfree@it.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information on obtaining a tax refund for goods purchased in Italy.

Culture

It seems that Florence could never lose her reputation as a city of culture. Florence was positioned at the very centre of the Renaissance (home to some of the greatest artists and thinkers who ever lived) and the beauty of the art, architecture and ideas that came from this city live on. The biggest cultural event in Florence is the international Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, which welcomes top names from the music and ballet worlds. The next event is set to take place from 5 May to 28 June 2005. Visitors should keep an eye open for one-off recitations played in churches and piazzas around the city. Posters are pinned up outside the venue and tickets are available at the door.

The entertainment publication Firenze Spettacolo (website: www.firenzespettacolo.it) provides listings on entertainment in the city. Agenzia Box Office, Via Luigi Alamanni (tel: (055) 210 804; website: www.boxol.it), Via Porta Rossa 82r (tel: (055) 219 402), or Viale Giannotti 13r (tel: (055) 680 362), sells most other tickets.

Music: Florence can claim a couple of musical firsts. Not only was the first piano invented in the city, by Bartolomeo Crostoferi, but also the first ever opera, Daphne, was performed here in 1598, at the home of Jacopo Corsi. Unfortunately the score does not survive and Florence has not maintained its early influence on the operatic form. Today’s opera season opens in September and is held chiefly at the Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16 (tel: (0935) 564767 or (055) 213 535; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com), on the banks of the Arno. L’Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (website: www.maggiofiorentino.com) is the city’s main orchestra, which plays at the Teatro Communale.

Chamber music can be heard most weekends at the Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola (tel: (055) 22641 or 226 4335; website: www.pergola.firenze.it), an ornate 17th-century theatre that also stages classical concerts and opera.

Theatre: The Teatro della Pergola (see above) and the Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99 (tel: (055) 212 320 or 239 6242; website: www.teatroverdifirenze.it), are the two chief venues for drama in Florence. Most performances are conducted in Italian, so a good understanding of the language is vital. Performances are typically productions of classic Italian dramas or foreign plays in translation, interspersed with the occasional contemporary production. Tickets are available at respective theatre box offices.

Other city theatres include Teatro Puccini, Piazza Puccini (tel: (055) 362 067; website: www.teatropuccini.it), home to Off Theatre, for a variety of performances from opera to new plays. There are new Italian dramas at Teatro di Rifredi, Via V Emanuele 303 (tel: (055) 422 0361/2; website: www.toscanateatro.it), and experimental theatre at Teatro Studio di Scandicci, Via Donizetti 58 (tel: (055) 757 348; website: www.scandiccicultura.org).

Dance: The annual Florence Dance Festival (tel: (055) 289 276; website: www.florencedance.org) was first conceived in 1990, although its future remains under threat, due to lack of funding. The festival aims to bring some of the best names in contemporary and classical dance to Florence, with an annual contest for emerging choreographers. Performances usually run for a month in July and are held in outdoor venues, such as Piazzale Michelangelo and the Teatro Romano in Fiesole. Ballet performances also take place during the Maggio Fiorentino festival, at various venues, throughout the year. Information and tickets are available from the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Corso Italia 16 (tel: (0935) 564 767 or 427 5367; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com).

Film: Florence has been the setting for a number of films, most memorably Merchant Ivory’s adaptation of E M Forster’s Room With A View (1985) and more recently Zeffirelli’s Tea with Mussolini (1999), Up At The Villa (2000), starring Kristin Scott Thomas, and Hannibal (2001), directed by Ridley Scott and starring Anthony Hopkins and Julian Moore. The surrounding area is equally popular: the Tuscan town of Cortona, for example, featured in Audrey Wells’ Under the Tuscan Sun (2003), starring Diane Lane. Such is the demand for picturesque Tuscan locations that the region has recently set up its own film commission to capitalise on promotional opportunities.

The cinema is heavily patronised in the city and for those who speak Italian, there is a real treat in store at the Odeon Cinehall (tel: (055) 214 068; website: www.cinehall.it), a stunning Art Nouveau theatre in Piazza Strozzi. Original language films are shown on Monday and Tuesday, with tickets costing around ¬7.20. English speakers can take a trip to the Goldoni, Via Serragli 109 (tel: (055) 222 437), where original-language films are shown on Thursday. Cinema tickets cost around ¬6.20, often dropping to ¬4 on Wednesday. More original language films are shown on Thursday at Cinema Fulgor, Via Maso Finiguerra (tel: (055) 238 1881; website: www.staseraalcinema.it).

Cultural Events: The Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (tel: (0935) 564 767; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com), which takes place from May to early July each year, forms the crux of Florence’s cultural calendar. The festival has been going for over 60 years and is presided over by its homegrown orchestra and dance company. L’Orchestra del Maggio Musical Fiorentino has achieved international recognition under the watchful eye of conductor Zubin Mehta – famous for his performances with the Three Tenors. Most of the performances are held at the Teatro Comunale (see above), also the central booking point for the festival. Some events are held outdoors in cloisters, piazzas and Boboli Gardens. Tickets for standing room only are available for purchase one hour before the performance begins for ¬11, while pre-booked tickets start at around ¬15.50.

Literary Notes: Writers, poets and bored aristocrats have poured into this city, eager to discover its mythical reputation. Romantics like Byron and Shelley were enraptured by the abundance of beauty, sighing almost as much over the picturesque peasants as they did over the architecture. As citizens of Florence, Dante (1265-1321) and Machiavelli (1469-1527) were less dewy-eyed. Dante called it a ‘city of self-made men and fast-got gain’ and consigned most of his contemporaries to hell in his masterwork, the Divine Comedy (1306-1321). Machiavelli, who like Dante was exiled from the city, is best known for his study of devious politics in The Prince (1513), learnt first-hand in the service of the Medici. Boccaccio (1313-75), who wrote the Decameron (1353), added little to the city, except a reputation for bawdy humour. But it was the court painter Giorgio Vasari (1511-74), who really opened the door to life in Renaissance Florence, with his artistic biography, Lives of the Artists (1550).

Henry James’ laconic insight came much later, drawing back the romantic conceit and presenting an altogether darker vision of Italy, in such novels as The Portrait of A Lady (1881). A collection of essays written while travelling in Italy between 1872 and 1909 can be found in his book Italian Hours (1909). E M Forster’s tale of knotted passions in A Room With A View (1908) has also carried Florence onto the silver screen.

Nightlife

Florence’s nightlife is fuelled by the city’s well-heeled, foreign students who come to study Italian and History of Art. Old World meets New World, as gangs of silver-tongued Romeos gather to admire leggy American blondes.

Despite a minimum drinking age of 18, partying in Florence is a determinedly young scene, with students fresh out of school getting their first taste of freedom and enjoying the proliferation of inexpensive wine and flexible licensing hours – some pubs stay open until 0100 or even 0300. The most bohemian area is the Oltrarno, south of the river, where bright young things can play until the small hours. Elsewhere, nightlife is concentrated around Piazza della Signoria, home of more sedate venues. Florentines, like most Italians, are self-consciously stylish with a definite bent towards smart, conservative dress. Dress up, take a pew outside one of the city’s elegant cafés and enjoy being admired in a city where beauty is taken for granted.

As with any university city, bars and clubs experience peaks and troughs of popularity. To find out where the action is, buy Firenze Spettacolo (website: www.firenzespettacolo.it) – the city’s definitive entertainment publication. On-line information for clubs and live music events can be found at www.vivifirenze.it. Entry to clubs is expensive at around ¬13, although tickets usually include a free drink at the bar.

Bars: For a glimpse of an authentic Italian watering hole, wend your way to Le Volpi and L’ Uve, Piazza de’Rossi 1, to sample some of the best wines the region has to offer. The owners, Riccardo and Emilio, can advise a plate of salami and cheese to accompany your choice of wine. Rex, Via Fiesolana 25r, is a sound bet for chic company, good mixers and tasty tapas, while for great snacks in the city centre, try Cantinetta del Verrazzono, Via dei Tavolini 18-20r. Strictly for homesick ex-pats is the Fiddler’s Elbow, Piazza Santa Maria Novella 7r, an Irish-style pub with satellite television, a good line in Guinness and would-be Celts. South of the river, La Dolce Vita, Piazza del Carmine, is more laid-back and popular with students who spill out onto the piazza. Then there is tiny Vini, Via dei Cimatori 38, a simple wine counter (one of the last in the city) founded in 1875. Just stand on the pavement with the other customers and enjoy the wine. There is old-fashioned appeal at Casa del Vino, Via del Ariento 16r, situated close to the central market. For lovers of sangria, Sulamanca, Via Gibellina 80, is a Spanish bar that also serves up Spanish food and satellite television. Cocktail lovers should try Angels American Bar, Via del Proconsolo 29/31r, which serves a good vodka sour along with a selection of antipasti.

Casinos: There are no licensed casinos in Florence.

Clubs: Central Park, Via Fosso Macinante, on the outskirts of Florence in Parco delle Cascine, is the place to be seen. Florentines flock here for the latest in music trends, although transport can be difficult for those without a car. Tenax, Via Pratese, in the Peretola district, is one of the most popular discos in town, a favourite with the young crowd. It also stages live concerts. Meccano, Viale degli Olmi 1, is self-consciously hip, while Dolce Zucchero, Via Pandolfini 36, is a small club that quickly fills up with dancers. Universale, situated on the banks of the Arno, at Via Pisana 77r, is an altogether more upmarket venue, and Yab Yum, Via Sassetti 5r, is extremely trendy playing everything from hip-hop on Mondays to disco on Thursdays. Soulciety Club, Via San Zanobi, is a little known club that attracts a lively crowd at the weekend. It is a great spot for funk, hip hop and soul. Finally, if your fancy footwork stretches to the samba, head for Maracana, Via Faenza 4, a lively Brazilian themed spot for swinging your hips, or Jaragua, Via Erba Canina 12r, where you can dance to Latin music and also learn how to salsa.

Live Music: Florence does not have a great deal of choice when it comes to live music but you can hear some good sounds at Be Bop, Via dei Servi 76, a cocktail bar specialising in live jazz and rock music. Or you can try The Jazz Club, Via Nuova dei Caccini 3, which serves up live music every Friday and Saturday. The Chiodo Fisso club, Via Dante Alighieri 16r, offers a varied repertoire and is popular with the locals, Yab Yum, Via Sassetti 5r, has some live music nights, while Eskimo, Via de’Canacci 12r, has blues and guitar on Thursdays, and Italian ethnic music on Mondays. Those who like rock n’ roll can head for Loonies, Via Porta Rossa 15 on a Saturday night. Further out, near the airport, Tenax, Via Pratese 46, has a live music auditorium, which doubles as a dancefloor. Auditorium Flog, Via M Mercati 24b, another student dive in the suburbs, is strong on contemporary young DJs and the Indie scene, and out of town at Osmannoro is Omni Club which also has some live music. At Astor Caffe, Piazza Duomo, you can often catch a live band playing, while Caffe la Torre, Lungarno Cellini, which is famous for its aperitifs, also serves up jazz, blues and Latin beats.

City Statistics

Location: Tuscany, northwest Italy.
Country dialling code: 39.
Population: 493,000 (city); 750,000 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: Predominantly Italian, but with 31.8% Chinese, 11.4% North African, 8.3% Middle Eastern and 8.2% South American.
Religion: 98% Catholic, 2% other.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs or three-pin plugs are in use.
Average January temp: 5°C (41°F).
Average July temp: 35°C (95°F).
Annual rainfall: 640mm (25.6 inches).

Special Events

Florence Carnival, Apr-May, Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci
Diladdarno, three-week celebration, including music, exhibitions and street festivals, Apr, Altrarno
Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the Cart), colourful procession of ox and cart, culminating in a spectacular fireworks display when the cart (lit by a mechanical dove) explodes at 1100, Easter Sunday (Mar/Apr), through central Florence to Piazza del Duomo
Settimani dei Beni Culturali, state museums throw open their doors for free, Apr, state museums throughout the city
Festa del Grillo (Festival of the Cricket), bizarre ancient ritual in which live crickets in hand-woven cages are given to loved ones, Ascension Day (Apr/May), Parco delle Cascine
Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (May Music Festival), major music festival with orchestra, chorus and Corps de Ballet (website: www.maggiofiorentino.com) May-early Jul, Teatro Comunale
Fiesole Summer Festival, dance, music and theatre in Fiesole (website: www.estatefiesolana.it) Jun-Sep, Roman theatre
Calcio in Costume, football game in medieval dress, as part of celebrations for the city’s patron saint, St John, 24 Jun, Piazza Santa Croce
Festa di San Giovanni (St John’s Day), another aspect of celebrations for the saint’s day, involving a ceremonial procession from Palazzo Vecchio, while there is a large fireworks display at night on Piazzale Michelangelo, 24 Jun, Palazzo Vecchio and Piazzale Michelangelo
La Rificolona (Festival of the Lanterns), a torchlight procession dating back to the days of religious pilgrimage to celebrate the Virgin’s nativity, with children carrying lanterns all over the city, 7th Sep, throughout the city
Firenze Marathon (Florence Marathon), annual city marathon and half marathon (website: www.firenzemarathon.it) Nov, from Piazzale Michelangelo to Piazza San Croce

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬1 (¬1.50 if chilled)
33cl bottle of beer: ¬2.50
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2
36-exposure colour film: ¬5.50
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1
Adult football ticket: From ¬26
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¬20

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005