World City Guide

Mini Guide of Frankfurt

City Overview

The fifth biggest city in Germany, Frankfurt on Main (Frankfurt am Main) has gained enormous economic power (both within Germany and abroad) thanks to its position as a key transport hub and its status as a major venue for international trade fairs and other business events. Located in the middle of the highly productive Rhine-Main region, right at the centre of Europe, the city is the financial heart not only of Germany but also of the European Union, pumping euros into the world economy.

A settlement since at least 3000BC, Frankfurt’s long and successful history of commerce stemmed initially from its central geographical location on the Main River and the Frankfurt Messe (fair). The Messe has been going since the 12th century (it is mentioned in a Jewish manuscript dating from 1160) and the city received its official Imperial privilege to hold an annual trade fair in 1240. Frankfurt got its name around AD500, when the Franks ruled the area and the settlement along the Main Fort transportation route became known as ‘Franconovurd’.

Frankfurt’s substantial political and cultural prestige is based on a fortunate history of decisive events. In 855, it became the election city for future monarchs. From 1562, the coronations of German emperors were held in the city’s Cathedral of St Bartholomew. The Frankfurt Börse (Stock Exchange) began trading in 1585, moving to Börsenplatz, its current home, in 1879. In 1815, Frankfurt was declared a free city and part of the German Union, with the Budestag, the Union’s highest committee, located here. Frankfurt University, which took the name of the city’s most famous son, Johann Wolfgang Goethe, in 1932, opened in 1914, just before the war that would forever change the face of Germany and indeed all of Europe.

If Frankfurt’s political aspirations were dashed by the choice of Bonn as capital of the Federal Republic in 1949, the city has directed its post-war energies all the more wholeheartedly into its uncontested financial role. The modern skyscrapers of banks and corporations in the central business district are potent symbols of Frankfurt’s economic strength and create a skyline that is more North American than European. ‘Bankfurt’ or ‘Mainhatten’ is home to some of the tallest buildings in Europe, including the 300m (984ft) Commerzbank tower. These modern behemoths have replaced parts of the old city that were destroyed by Allied bombers at the end of World War II. However, examples of pre-war Frankfurt can still be experienced in the reconstructed buildings on the Römerberg, including the cathedral and the Römer – Frankfurt’s city hall since 1405.

With the second busiest airport in Europe (after London Heathrow) and a vital junction on the national road and rail network, Frankfurt is a focal point of international transportation and communication. Not only is the city home to the European Central Bank and many other banks but it also commands thousands of companies, including the moguls of the German publishing industry, as well as a number of companies involved in public relations, marketing, media and telecommunications. As Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860) commented in 1843, ‘here, you see and hear what is going on in the world.’

Most of Frankfurt’s visitors come for one of the numerous trade fairs, exhibitions and congresses. Among the largest on the international circuit are the International Book Fair (Buchmesse Frankfurt) and ACHEMA (chemical engineering, environmental protection and biotechnology). But Frankfurt (to the surprise of many) has got another side to reveal to its focused business visitors. As the birthplace of Germany’s most revered writer, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832), the city is at pains to impress with its cultural pedigree. Excellent museums, high-calibre performance groups and local festivals should entice the discerning guest away from the boardroom and the exhibition hall.
The city’s climate is generally mild and well balanced with warm, occasionally wet, days in summer, with temperatures sometimes even reaching 30°C (90°F), and chilly winter days, when temperatures range between - 10°C (14°F) and 10°C (40°F).

Getting There By Air

Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (FRA)
Tel: (069) 6900.
Website: www.frankfurt-airport.de

Frankfurt Main airport is located 12km (8 miles) southwest of the city centre. It is the largest airport in continental Europe, handling some 50 million passengers travelling on over 100 airlines every year and serving 296 destinations. It is a major European transport hub alongside London, Paris and Amsterdam. Terminals one (concourses A, B and C) and two (D and E) are linked by free Skyline shuttle trains. Current expansion includes a new runway and a third passenger terminal.

Airport facilities: Numerous banks, bureaux de change and ATMs are available in both terminals and in the Frankfurt Airport Centre (FAC1). The airport facilities include travel agencies, shops, duty-free outlets, restaurants, bars, pharmacies and post offices (mostly located in terminal one). 3C Communications provide 24-hour credit card telephones, faxes and Internet access. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt.

Transport to the city: The airport has two railway stations and one bus terminal; the Sky Line people mover connects passengers to both terminals. Deutsche Bahn (tel: 11861 or (0800) 150 7090 or (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de) city trains (S-Bahn) run to Frankfurt’s main railway station (Hauptbahnhof) from platforms one to three of Frankfurt Airport station (journey time – 10 minutes). Tickets must be purchased beforehand at the blue RMV ticket machines. There are also local trains to Mainz, Wiesbaden and other destinations. ICE, InterCity and EuroCity trains to national and international destinations depart from platforms four to seven, at the AIRail Terminal (see Getting There By Rail).

The bus terminal is situated in front of the terminal one arrivals hall. The public bus no. 61 for Frankfurt Südbahnhof runs daily. Hotels often arrange a free shuttle service for their guests, but taxis are readily available outside both terminals (journey time – 20-30 minutes).

Frankfurth Hahn (HHN)
Tel: (06543) 509 200.
Website: www.hahn-airport.de

Frankfurt Hahn airport is located 120km (75 miles) west of Frankfurt, in the Hunsrück area. The airport serves as a hub for budget airline Ryanair with daily flights to destinations throughout Europe. The airport continues to expand – the new passenger terminal opened in June 2005 while a new access road improves accessibility.

Airport facilities: Facilities include restaurants, bars, shops, duty-free, a pharmacy, telephones, a travel agent, newsagent, banks and ATMs. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt.

Transport to the city: There is a daily direct bus service operated by Bohr Omnibusse (tel: (06543) 50190; website: www.bohr-omnibusse.de), which runs from Hahn airport to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof (journey time – 1 hour 45 minutes), stopping at Frankfurt Main airport. Buses depart from in front of the terminal building; a new bus station is slated for completion in October 2005. Taxis also are available in front of the terminal building.

Approximate flight times to Frankfurt: From London is 1 hour 30 minutes; from New York is 7 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 50 minutes; from Toronto is 7 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is 25 hours.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Germany has an excellent network of major ‘B’ roads (Bundesstrassen) and ‘A’ motorways (Autobahnen). Generally, there are no speed limits on Autobahnen but individually marked speed limits appear on a large percentage of motorway miles. A maximum of 130kph (81mph) is recommended. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) outside built-up areas, 100kph (62mph) or 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Traffic drives on the right. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in the front seat with a child restraint. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Foreign drivers require their national driving licence and proof of insurance – third party insurance is mandatory but a Green Card is strongly recommended. A country identification sticker must be displayed on the vehicle.

Mitfahrzentrale are ‘car sharing’ agencies that link drivers with travellers heading to the same destination. In Frankfurt, these include CityNetz Mitfahrzentrale, Hamburger Allee 37 (tel: (069) 19444; website: www.citynetz-mitfahrzentrale.de), and the online company Mitfahrgelegenheit (website: www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de).

General information on travelling by car in Germany can be obtained from the Allgemeine Deutsche Automobil Club – ADAC (tel: (0180) 510 1112; website: www.adac.de), which also provides breakdown services throughout the country. Auto Club Europa – ACE also provides information on their info-service (tel: (0180) 233 6677; website: www.ace-online.de), as well as a breakdown service.

Emergency breakdown services:
ADAC (0180) 222 2222
ACE (0180) 234 3536

Routes to the city: The Frankfurter Kreuz (near the airport, to the south of the city) is the most important junction in the German Autobahn network, where the A5 and A3 motorways connect. The A5 is the motorway to Frankfurt from the north (Hanover and Berlin) and the south (Karlsruhe and from across the border in Basel). The A3 connects Frankfurt with the east (Nürnberg) and west (Düsseldorf and Cologne).

Approximate driving times to Frankfurt: From Munich – 3 hours; Hanover – 3 hours; and Berlin – 4 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Deutsche Touring GmbH, Am Römerhof 17 (tel: (069) 790 350; website: www.deutsche-touring.com), operates international services between Frankfurt and numerous destinations, including London, Paris, Rome, Moscow, Copenhagen and Budapest. They also operate regional services; destinations on the ‘Romantic Road’ route from Frankfurt include Munich, Würzburg, Augsburg and Schwangau. All buses depart from the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof Omnibusbahnof, at the main railway station. Tickets can be purchased at the station or on the bus.

Getting There By Rail

Deutsche Bahn – DB (tel: 11861 or (0800) 150 7090 or (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de) is the national railway provider. The network is modern, extensive and highly efficient. Services include high-speed InterCityExpress (ICE) trains (between major cities in Germany), InterCity (IC) and EuroCity (EC) trains (serving German and European cities respectively), and InterRegio (IR) and InterRegio Express (IRE) trains (linking different regions of the country).

The Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), Am Hauptbahnhof Strasse (tel: (069) 2653 4581), is the busiest in Germany and a major junction on the network, with 350,000 passengers using the station every day. Facilities at the station include tourist information, a bank, ATMs, a chemist and many other shops and eating outlets.

Rail services: There are IC and EC services to destinations throughout Germany and abroad, while ICE trains travel to a number cities, including Basel, Bonn, Dresden, Düsseldorf, Hanover, Munich, Hamburg and Berlin. The ICE Cologne-Frankfurt link is the fastest on the network, at just 70 minutes (58 minutes to Frankfurt Flughafen). There are also night trains on some routes, including the CityNightLine service (tel: (01805) 121 244; website: www.citynightline.ch) from Vienna West, Basel and Zurich. IR, IRE, RE (Regional Express) RB (Regional Bahn) and S-Bahn trains serve regional and city destinations.

Frankfurt airport has its own long-distance train station in the AIRail Terminal, with regular direct ICE services to Basel, Hanover, Amsterdam, Stuttgart and Munich.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Public transport within Frankfurt is run by the Verkehrsgesellschaft Frankfurt-am-Main – VGF, Kundenzentrum, Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 10 (tel: (069) 19449; website: www.vgf-ffm.de). VGF is run by the larger organisation, the Rhein-Main-Verkehrsverbund – RMV (tel: (01805) 768 4636; website: www.rmv.de), which also provides excellent public transport information.

VGF consists of seven underground (U-Bahn), eight tram (Strassenbahn) and over 40 bus lines, including a weekend night bus service. These are supplemented by an extensive network of city trains (S-Bahn) operated by Deutsche Bahn (tel: 11861 or (0800) 150 7090 or (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de).

There is a VGF information pavilion at the Hauptbahnhof, which is open Monday-Friday 0800-1200.

The entire VGF network is divided into zones (one to seven), which determine the price of tickets. Various passes, such as the one-day pass (Tageskarte), allowing unlimited travel within zones one to three during a 24-hour period, are available. Single, short-journey, group and day tickets can all be bought from automated RMV ticket machines (card-o-maten), which have instructions in English. There are also ticket machines for weekly, monthly and yearly passes, although these can also be purchased from VGF and DB sales points. The Congress Ticket must be purchased in advance from Frankfurt Tourist+Congress Board (tel: (069) 2123 8703 or 0396 or 0776) and entitles the holder to one full day’s travel throughout Frankfurt, including the airport. It is only available for those attending a conference or similar event.

Taxis
Taxis are usually beige Mercedes and they can safely be hailed on the street. They can also be ordered from the central issuing agency Taxi Zentrale (tel: (069) 230 001 or 250 001; website: www.taxi-frankfurt.de). A tip of 5-10% or rounding up of the fare is normally expected.

Driving in the City
Driving in the centre of Frankfurt can be stressful, as it requires a good knowledge of the one way system. It can be heavily congested, especially during rush hours (0800-0900 and 1700-1800), when it can be even more confusing. Furthermore, German drivers are not known for their patience. The Strassenverkehrsbehörde, Mainzer Landstrasse 323 (tel: (069) 2124 2636; website: www.svb.frankfurt.de), provides up-to-date information on the traffic situation in the city.

Drivers should note that trams always have priority in the city, although driving on their tracks is permissible and usually unavoidable. Buses also have priority when leaving stops.

Parking on the street is rarely available and being towed away can be very expensive. Street parking is by meter and is quite expensive, as are car parks, which also get congested very quickly. There are many covered car parks in Frankfurt. The following are open 24 hours: Hauptwache, Kornmarkt 10; Schiller-Passage, Taubenstrasse 11; Junghofstrasse, Junghofstrasse; City-Parkhaus, Querstrasse; Börse, Meisengasse; Alte Oper, Opernplatz; Alt-Sachsenhausen, Walter-Kolb-Strasse 16; Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse, Konrad Adenauer-Strasse 15; Mousonturm, Waldschmidtstrasse 6; Congress Center Messe, Theodor-Heuss-Allee 3-5; and Westend, Savignystrasse 58.

Car Hire
Regulations vary depending on the company but drivers generally must be at least 19 years old and have held a full driving licence for at least one year (an International Driving Permit is needed if the national licence is not in roman script). Providers include Avis, Schmidtstrasse 39 (tel: (069) 730 111; website: www.avis.de), Budget, Schulstrasse 7 (tel: (069) 614 004; website: www.budget.de), Hertz, Hauptbahnhof (tel: (069) 230 484; website: www.hertz.de) and Sixt, Allerheiligenstrasse 52 (tel: (01805) 252 525; website: www.e-sixt.de).

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles can be hired from Call A Bike (tel: (07000) 522 5522; website: www.callabike.de). Customers telephone, give their credit card details and receive an electronic code, which unlocks a bike from one of the depots situated at major crossroads throughout the city. Rebicycle, Töngesgasse 23-25 (tel: (069) 4080 7436) also offers bicycles for hire. A range of bicycles, including trekking bikes and mountain bikes, are available; a deposit is required. See also Bicycle Tours in Tours of the City.

Business

Business Etiquette
Working hours are generally 0800-1700. Punctuality for both business and social events is extremely important. Frankfurters are impressed with efficiency and strong business sense and this is displayed in their business style – firm handshakes, formal use of business cards and an appreciation of straight talking. Business contacts must be addressed by their surname and by the formal ‘Sie’ for ‘you’, if speaking German. Academic and other titles should be used wherever applicable. Both men and women are expected to wear suits – men should also wear a tie. Visitors to Germany should note that in some cases, instead of applauding, German businessmen and women might rap their knuckles on the table.

Business socialising mainly takes place over lunches, especially on Friday, as many offices close at around 1300. After-work drinks are a more casual affair between colleagues and seldom involve clients.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Skyscrapers housing major financial institutions dominate the scene in the central business district. The Westend is both a residential and business district. Nearby, the Marktplatz (former Market Square), Römer (City Hall), the Kaiserdom (Emperor Cathedral), Paulskirche (Church of St Paul) and the Nikolaikirche (Nicholas Church) are among the attractions of the Altstadt (Old Town). The Bahnhofsviertel (around the main railway station), especially Kaiserstrasse, is the city’s red light district, although the ubiquitous seediness has developed into a popular and lively entertainment scene. Fourteen museums make up the longest mile of museums in Europe – the Museumsufer (Museum Embankment) on the southern bank of the Main, reached on foot via Eiserner Steg. Most of Frankfurt’s museums are closed on Monday and open until 2000 on Wednesday.

Visitors increasingly flock further south of the Main to Sachsenhausen, the oldest district in Frankfurt, to enjoy Äppelwoi (apple wine) at traditional half-timbered taverns. The best views of the city can be gained from the observation platform of the Main Tower. Students and artists contribute to the bohemian atmosphere of the Nordend around Eschenheimer Tor.

Tourist Information
Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main
Hauptbahnhof
Tel: (069) 2123 8800. Fax: (069) 2123 7880.
E-mail: info@tcf.frankfurt.de
Website: www.frankfurt-tourismus.de
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2100, Sat and Sun 0900-1800.

A second tourist information centre is located at Römerberg 27.

Passes
The Frankfurt Card, available as a one-day (¬7.80) or a two-day (¬11.50) ticket, offers free travel on all RMV transport within the city and to the airport, as well as a 25% reduction on guided city tours, 50% reduction on admission to major attractions and 21 museums, and a 20% reduction on the Köln-Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt Rhine and Mosel river tours (departing Frankfurt). Participating attractions include Goethe House and Museum, Historical Museum, Jewish Museum, Museum of Modern Art, Städel Art Institute and Municipal Gallery, the Palmengarten and Frankfurt Zoo. The card is available from tourist information offices (tel: (069) 2123 8703), the DB Reisezentrum at the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), and at the Frankfurt airport hotel reservations desk in terminal one.

Key Attractions

Römerberg
In 1240, this low hill (the main square and heart of the Old Town) was the site of the city’s first official trade fair. The Römerberg is bordered by half-timbered houses (Fachwerkhäuser), reconstructed after total destruction in 1945, and the former court chapel – the Nikolaikirche (Church of St Nicholas). The main attraction, however, is the Rathaus Römer (Frankfurt’s city hall since 1405) with its Gothic stepped gables made of Frankfurt’s trademark red sandstone. The coronation of German emperors was celebrated by banquets in the Kaisersaal (Emperor’s Hall) on the upper floors. Portraits of 52 emperors, from Charlemagne to Franz II, now hang on the walls. It is a working town hall, however, and there are currently no tours. The Christmas market that takes place on Römerberg every December is one of the best in Germany, and has taken place here since the late 14th century.

Römerberg, Römer

Sankt Bartholomäusdom (Cathedral of St Bartholomew)
Between 1562 and 1792, German emperors were crowned in the Cathedral of St Bartholomew, hence its other name – the Kaiserdom (Emperor Cathedral). In the 1950s, this was Frankfurt’s tallest building, at 96m (315ft), which illustrates just how much the city has developed since then. The cathedral has a red sandstone façade and interior and is one of Frankfurt’s most recognisable landmarks. The present structure was rebuilt after World War II but contains a number of original carvings. There are also great views of the city from the tower. A museum, the Dommuseum, is adjoined to the cathedral and is packed full of ancient archaeological findings.

Domplatz 14
Tel: (069) 297 0320.
Website: www.dom-frankfurt.de
Opening hours: Mon-Thur and Sat 0900-1200 and 1430-1800, Fri and Sun 1430-1800, until 1700 in winter (cathedral); Tue-Fri 1000-1700, Sat-Sun 1100-1700 (museum).
Free admission to the cathedral; charge for the museum.

Städelsche Kunstinstitute und Städtische Galerie (Städel Art Institute and Municipal Gallery)
An exemplary and comprehensive collection of European painting from the 14th to the 20th centuries is housed in this museum (commonly known as just Städel) on Frankfurt’s legendary Museumsufer (Museum Embankment). German masters, such as Cranach, Holbein and Beckmann, are displayed alongside the likes of Botticelli, Rembrandt and Rubens. Around 500 sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries are also on show, including works from artists such as Rodin, Kirchner and Picasso. There is also a café, and an excellent bookshop.

Dürerstrasse 2
Tel: (069) 605 098 200.
Website: www.staedelmuseum.de
Opening hours: Tues, Fri-Sun 1000-1700, Wed and Thurs 1000-2100.
Admission charge (concessions available).

Museum für Moderne Kunst (Museum of Modern Art)
The outside of the Museum of Modern Art alone would count as one of the city’s major attractions. It is therefore a bonus that this museum, designed by Viennese architect Hans Hollein, is filled with a superb collection of post-war art, predominantly by German and American artists, including Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Andy Warhol and Joseph Beuys. There is also a café-restaurant.

Domstrasse 10
Tel: (069) 2123 0447.
Website: www.mmk-frankfurt.de
Opening hours: Tues, Thurs-Sun 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2000.
Admission charge (concessions available).

Frankfurt Zoo
Frankfurt’s zoo is one of the most attractive in Europe and is very popular with both locals and visitors. There are 13 different areas in these 14 hectares (35 acres) of land, where thousands of animals from all over the world, including eight endangered species, can be observed. The obvious highlight is the Grzimek Haus, where artificial darkness is created in order to observe nocturnal animals going about their business.

Alfred-Brehm-Platz 16
Tel: (069) 2123 3735.
Website: www.zoo-frankfurt.de
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (summer); daily 0900-1700 (winter).
Admission charge (concessions available).

Palmengarten (Palm Garden)
The Palm Garden is a wonderland of tropical plants and exotic birds. Hidden away from the bustle of the city centre, the attractions of this botanical garden include glasshouses, some 300 different palms and a boating lake. There are concerts staged here in summer, as well as a number of exhibitions and events. Guided tours are available.

Siesmayerstrasse 63
Tel: (069) 2123 3939/6689.
Website: www.palmengarten-frankfurt.de
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600 (Nov-Jan); daily 0900-1800 (Feb-Oct).
Admission charge (concessions available).

Goethe-Museum and Goethe-Haus
Completely destroyed by Allied bombers in 1944, the house where Goethe (1749-1832) was born and spent most of his youth was rebuilt after the war, in 1951, and restored to its former 18th-century glory. Visitors can see the family music room, library, living room and Goethe’s own puppet show and study. Next door, the Goethe-Museum displays German paintings and sculpture from the late Baroque period up to early Romanticism. There are daily guided tours of the house at 1030 and 1400. Tours of the museum can also be arranged on request.

Grosser Hirschgraben 23-25
Tel: (069) 138 800.
Website: www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1730, Sat 1000-1800 and Sun 1000-1730.
Admission charge (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Jüdisches-Museum (Jewish Museum)
Until the Holocaust, Frankfurt was home to Germany’s second largest Jewish population, many of whom played a key role in the city’s financial and cultural success. The story of this important community from the 12th to the 20th century, is told in the Jewish Museum, housed in the Rothschild Palais (a mansion that was the former home of the Rothschilds). The remains of Mikvah (women’s ceremonial baths) in the former Jewish ghetto and special exhibitions are displayed in the supplementary Judengasse Museum (Jewish Alley Museum).

Untermainkai 14-15
Tel: (069) 2123 5000.
Website: www.juedischesmuseum.de

Judengasse Museum
Kurt-Schzumacher-Strasse 10
Tel: (069) 297 7419.
Website: www.juedischesmuseum.de

Historisches Museum (Historical Museum)
The Historical Museum is housed in a complex of imperial buildings overlooking the Main, which also includes the 12th-century palace chapel. The museum traces the story of Frankfurt (including its destruction in World War II) and visitors can learn about the traditions of Äppelwoi in the museum café. There are guided tours on the last Saturday of each month.

Saalgasse 19
Tel: (069) 2123 5599.
Website: www.historisches-museum.frankfurt.de

Geldmuseum der Deutschen Budesbank (Money Museum of the German Federal Bank)
The Money Museum is a sign of the changing times. In this Deutsche Bundesbank building, an extensive historical collection of coins and paper money has finally been made accessible to the public. The museum also explains the complex nature of monetary policy (especially the new European system) using films, challenging computer games and interactive teaching programmes.

Wilhelm Epsteinstrasse 14
Tel: (069) 9566 3073.
Website: www.geldmuseum.de

Haus Giersch Museum Regionaler Kunst (Haus Giersch Museum of Regional Art)
This newcomer on the Frankfurt museum scene is devoted to work from artists from the Rhine-Main region and is a wonderful way for culture-keen visitors to get a taste of the regional artistic fare. Taking its place alongside Frankfurt’s finest institutions on Museumsufer, the bright, airy and thoroughly contemporary gallery hosts two changing exhibitions on art and art-historical themes. The one constant exhibit is the building itself, the neoclassical Villa Holzmann.

Schaumainkai 83, Museumsufer
Tel: (069) 6330 4128.
Website: www.museum-giersch.de

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main (tel: (069) 2123 8953; website: www.frankfurt-tourismus.de) organises walking tours of the city. The ‘Historical Tour of Frankfurt’ includes the services of an English-speaking guide for a two-hour guided tour of Frankfurt’s Römerberg. The meeting point is arranged with the guide beforehand and there is a maximum of 30 people per guide.

Bus Tours
Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main (see above) also organises daily bus tours in winter (November-March) and twice-daily bus tours in summer (April-October). Both set off from the tourist information office on Römerberg 27, and pick up passengers at the tourist information office at the Hauptbahnhof, 15 minutes later. Tours last approximately three hours and include a walk through the Old Town and visits to either the Historical Museum or Goethe House. In summer, the tour also takes in the observation platform of the Main Tower. Bus tours are limited to a minimum of three people.

Tram Tours
A tram known as the Ebbelwei Express (tel: (069) 2132 2425; website: www.vgf-ffm.de) can be hired for private tours of the city, from the city centre to Sachsenhausen. Tram hire is for a minimum of two hours and an English-speaking guide can be arranged. The price includes a glass of Äppelwoi, some Brezeln (pretzels) and music.

Boat Tours
A variety of round trips and cruises depart mainly from Eiserner Steg, off Untermainkai. Boats run several times a day. Trips are offered by Frankfurter Personenschiffahrt, Mainkai 36, Am Eiserner Steg (tel: (069) 133 8370; website: www.primus-linie.de) and Köln-Düsseldorfer Rheinschiffahrt, Frankenwerft 35 (tel: (0221) 208 8318; website: www.k-d.com).

Bicycle Tours
Bicycle tours are organised by ADFC Frankfurt, Fichardstrasse 46 (tel: (069) 9441 0196; website: www.adfc-frankfurt.de).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Taunus: This line of hills to the north and west of Frankfurt provide a wooded setting for a number of famous spa towns including Wiesbaden, the capital of Hesse, and Bad Homburg, where hot saline springs are set in a beautiful park. From the attractive town of Königstein, the road continues to the Grosser Feldberg – the highest point in the Taunus at 881m (2,890ft). Most Taunus destinations can be reached by S-Bahn, however, the area is probably best appreciated by car. While in the region, visitors are recommended to stop at the Open-Air Museum Hessenpark, Laubweg, Neu-Anspach (tel: (06081) 5880; website: www.hessenpark.de), which shows an original village of traditional half-timbered houses, inside and out. Some of these buildings, including the mill and the granary, can even be hired for conferences. The museum is open daily from the end of February until the end of October. Trains run to Hessenpark from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof (journey time – approximately 1 hour).

For a Whole Day

Heidelberg: Approximately one hour by IC train, 75km (46 miles) south of Frankfurt, lies one of the most visited towns in Germany. Heidelberg fulfils all expectations with its romantic setting on the banks of the Neckar, its Gothic and Renaissance castle and the oldest university in Germany. The picture-perfect town is boosted by numerous lively festivals and popular student taverns. Tourist Information Heidelberg (tel: (062) 211 9433; website: www.heidelberg.de or www.cvb-heidelberg.de), located in the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), can provide further information.

Rhein and Main tours: During spring and summer, Frankfurter Personenschiffahrt, Mainkai 36, Am Eisernen Steg (tel: (069) 133 8370; website: www.primus-linie.de) offers river trips to destinations on the Main and Rhein (Rhine) rivers, west of Frankfurt. Points of call include the legendary Lorelei, the wine village of Rüdesheim, St Goarshausen and Heidelberg. Although times and schedules vary, boats depart from the Eisener Steg (bridge). Return transport, if necessary, is often by train. A round trip to St Goarshausen takes approximately seven hours.

Sport

Shopping

The pedestrian street, Zeil (from Hauptwache to Konstablerwache) is the city’s major shopping street and is lined with well-known department stores, including the super-modern Zielgalerie, Zeil 112-114 (website: www.zeilgalerie.com), with approximately 50 shops, a number of eateries, an aqua spa, and tremendous views from the roof terrace. A new shopping centre, designed by Frankfurt architects KSP Engel and Zimmerman, is currently under construction. Many shops along Zeil sell the typical local gift, the Ebbelwei wine carafe, called Bembel, which comes with matching glasses. International names can be found in the streets leading off the main thoroughfare. Goethestrasse is known for its exclusive designer clothing and jewellery boutiques. Oeder Weg and Berger Strasse offer just the opposite – small but interesting bargain and curiosity shops in which to rummage.

The largest shopping centres are the Nordwest Zentrum, Walter-Möller-Platz 2, and Schillerpassage, Rahmhofstrasse 2. Others are the Hessen Centre, Borsigallee 26, the Neu-Isenburg-Zentrum, Hermesstrasse 4, and the Main-Taunus-Zentrum in Sulzbach. Antiques can be found in the streets around the cathedral. Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse has the best delicatessens, fish shops, markets and wine merchants in town and the Kleinmarkthalle on Hasengasse is full of international delicacies. For something unusual, Comica, Stiftstrasse, offers comics and graphic novels, as well as a number of figurines and memorabilia from all the favourite cartoons, such as Asterix and Wallace and Gromit.

Out of the city centre, Leipziger Strasse in Bornheim, has a range of idiosyncratic shops and Schweizer Strasse in Sachsenhausen is the home of some exclusive boutiques. A flea market is held every Saturday 0900-1400 on the Museumsufer (Schaumainkai), while an excellent produce market can be found on Saturday 0800-1700 and Thursday 1000-2000 on Konstablerwache Square.

Large city-centre stores and supermarkets are open Monday to Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday 0900-1600. Smaller shops close at 1830 on weekdays and on Saturday at 1400. All shops are closed on Sunday. VAT is currently at 16%. Travellers who live outside the European Union can obtain a tax refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) on goods bought in Germany. This is done by submitting the purchased goods and the original receipt to the customs office at the airport, before check-in. The export certificate should then be taken to any one of five counters after the security check, where a cash refund is obtained.

Culture

Although it is often considered a dreary place of all work and no play, Frankfurt in fact offers visitors a lively and impressive cultural scene that provides a welcome diversion from its hard-nosed business activities. The city’s most famous son undoubtedly is Johann Wolfgang Goethe (1749-1832) and the city’s pride in this man is reflected in the fact that the university takes his name. Another famous Frankfurter is the artist Adam Elsheimer (1578-1610) who played a key role in the development of 17th-century landscape painting – the Städel, Dürerstrasse 2, houses his Altarpiece of the Cross (1604-06). Also born in the city were Paul Ehrlich and Arthur Schopenhauer.

The Schirn Kunsthalle (often shortened to Kulturschirn), Römerberg (tel: (069) 299 8820; website: www.schirn.de), displays innovative art exhibitions. The city also has some high-calibre performance groups, particularly The Forsythe Company, which took over from Ballett Frankfurt in January 2005 and is directed by William Forsythe. Frankfurt is an important port of call on the European jazz circuit, with a number of excellent venues attracting international stars (see Nightlife).

Most performance venues are closed during July and August. There are a number of ticket outlets in the city, the main one being Frankfurt Ticket, Hanauer Landstrasse 417 (tel: (069) 134 0400; website: www.frankfurt-ticket.de).

Papers that list cultural events are Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (especially the extensive Sunday edition), Frankfurter Neue Presse, Frankfurter Rundschau, and Journal Frankfurt. An excellent source of information and listings is available from the online service (website: www.rhein-main.net) for Frankfurter Neue Presse and Journal Frankfurt. The free magazines Strandgut (website: www.strandgut.de), Fritz (website: www.fritz-frankfurt.de) and Kultur News (website: www.kulturnews.de) all have information on cultural events and performances in Frankfurt (in German) and are available at the tourist information centre.

Music: Rebuilt in its original style in 1981, the elegant Alte Oper (Old Opera), Opernplatz (tel: (069) 13400; website: www.alteoper.de), is the city’s most important and best-loved concert hall; tickets are available from Frankfurt Ticket (see above). The Frankfurt Museum Orchestra and touring companies perform here. Opera performances by Oper Frankfurt (tel: (069) 21202; website: www.oper-frankfurt.de), however, are to be found at the Städtische Bühnen (municipal stages), Untermainanlage 11 (tel: (069) 2123 7000).

Theatre: Goethe wrote the original versions of Faust (Urfaust and Götz von Berlichingen) while he lived in Frankfurt. Top-class German theatre, including work by Goethe, is performed by Schauspielfrankfurt at one of the Städtische Bühnen, Untermainanlage 11 (tel: (069) 2123 7000; website: www.schauspielfrankfurt.de). Excellent English productions, including musicals, can be enjoyed in the rather unprepossessing surroundings of The English Theatre, Kaiserstrasse 34 (tel: (069) 2423 1620; website: www.english-theatre.org). Volkstheater Frankfurt (‘the people’s theatre’), Grosser Hirschgraben 21 (tel: (069) 288 598 or 283 676; website: www.volkstheater-frankfurt.de), shows classic plays by Goethe and Shakespeare, as well as music and dance theatre on a more traditional level. In summer, performances take place in the backyard with Ebbelwei and Brezeln.

Dance: The Forsythe Company, Bockenheimer Depot, Carlo-Schmid-Platz 1 (tel: (069) 2123 7586; website: www.theforsythecompany.de or www.frankfurt-ballett.de) is the city’s premier dance company.

Film: The Deutsches Filmmuseum, Schaumainkai 41 (tel: (069) 2123 8830; website: www.deutsches-filmmuseum.de), is the best of its kind in Germany. Permanent exhibitions are supplemented by screenings of classic and independent films in the Kommunales Kino, every day except Monday. The Chaplin Archiv, Klarastrasse 5 (tel: (069) 9529 4477), is a free permanent exhibition on two floors, which gives a true impression of the late actor Charlie Chaplin, his work and life. On show are 450 rare film documents and 6,000 remarkable pieces like old books, magazines, pictures, advertising materials and records related to the artist.

Mal sehn, Adlerflychtstrasse 6 (tel: (069) 557 342 or 597 0845; website: www.malsehnkino.de), Orfeo’s Erben, Hamburger Allee 45 (tel: (069) 7076 9100), Valentin, Windthorstrasse 84 (tel: (069) 308 6927; website: www.filmtheater-valentin.de) and Turmpalast, Eschenheimer Turm (tel: (069) 281 787), offer movies in English.

Most mainstream cinemas are located in the centre around Zeil, such as E-Kinos, Hauptwache (tel: (069) 285 205; website: www.ekinos-frankfurt.de), which is a really big movie house on the Hauptwache end of Zeil.

Literary Notes: Written while the author lived in Frankfurt, Die Leiden des jungen Werther – The Sufferings of Young Werther (1771) is one of Goethe’s best-known works. The epistolary novel traces the tragic love of Werther for the beautiful but unobtainable Lotte. Goethe’s literary output was prodigious and eclectic, including collections of poetry, novels, plays and scientific works. Heinrich Hoffmann (1809-94) was born in Frankfurt and became the leading doctor at the municipal madhouse. His writing includes lyrical poems, ballads, comic and satirical works and, most famously, Struwwelpeter (1848), a series of gruesome pictorial and poetic cautionary tales for children. There is a dedicated Heinrich-Hoffmann Museum, Schubertstraße 20 (tel: (069) 747 969; website: www.struwwelpeter-haus.de). A more recent German novel that offers a taste of the city is Regula Venske’s Double für eine Leiche – Double for a Corpse (1998), which features the comings and goings at the International Book Fair.

Nightlife

Traditional Kneipen (bars) cluster around the Alt Sachsenhausen district (between Brückenstrasse and Dreiechstrasse), but are increasingly being crowded out by more modern establishments with an international ambience. Many of Frankfurt’s top hotels have excellent bars that attract outsiders as well as guests and are particularly popular with visiting businesspeople. Belying its rather staid image, Frankfurt also has a lively club scene. Discos and gay haunts are to be found around Zeil and Bleichstrasse, while the seedier side of nightlife can be found down the Kaiserstrasse artery and the surrounds.

Many bars in Frankfurt also offer live music, particularly jazz. The best venues are around Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse, otherwise known as Jazzgasse (Jazz Alley).

Bars stay open until 0100 during the week and remain open significantly later at the weekend. The minimum drinking age is 18 years and in trendy bars or clubs, a beer can cost around ¬3-4, while a glass of wine is usually around ¬3.50-4 and sprits ¬3-5. Dress code is smart to casual – a tie is not necessary but many places will not allow trainers or jeans. Clubs and discos often charge admission of around ¬8-10.

The first phase of the proposed Urban Entertainment Centre, a 210m (689ft) tower block (UEC 1), has been completed and is situated on Hemmerichweg, between the fair district and the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station). When complete, the complex will offer shopping and entertainment centre, as well as offices, a hotel and apartments.

Prinz (website: www.prinz.de) is the magazine to pick up for the latest bars, club and nightlife information. The free magazines Strandgut (website: www.strandgut.de), Fritz (website: www.fritz-frankfurt.de) and Kultur News (website: www.kulturnews.de) all have information on culture and nightlife in Frankfurt (in German) and are available at the tourist information centre. An excellent source of information and listings is available from the online service (website: www.rhein-main.net) for Frankfurter Neue Presse and Journal Frankfurt.

Bars: To experience the best of a dying breed of Äppelwoi taverns, trawl the streets of Alt Sachsenhausen around Affentorplatz. However, if an up-to-the minute scene is more your style, try the super-trendy Soho, Fritschengässchen 5, or Coconut Groove, Kaiserstrasse 53, a stylish restaurant-bar with live music and tables spilling onto the pavement in summer.

In the centre, the places to see and be seen are Lounge, Weissadlergasse 15, a cosy bar that is open until 0300 every day, Keepers Bar, Berliner Strasse 175, offering an excellent mix of cocktails and DJs, and the trendy Studio Bar, Katharinenpforte 6, with upstairs seating in its penthouse. A place with understated style is Luna Bar, Stiftstrasse 6. This is one of the best ‘designer bars’ in Germany, with great atmosphere and cocktails made to order. Once a month, the venue hosts a Lunatics Party, with live music.

The Main Tower Bar, on the 53rd floor of the only public skyscraper in Frankfurt, offers breathtaking drinks as well as views from 1830 onwards. Craving German beer? Make for Elfer Music Club, Maybachstrasse 24, the mother of all trendy pubs in Frankfurt. Prices are quite steep at Jimmy’s Bar in the Frankfurt Hessischer Hof Hotel, Friedrich Ebert Anlage 40, but anyone on an expense account will enjoy the cosmopolitan atmosphere and the gentleman’s club surroundings. The homesick can head for the distinctly English King’s Arms pub, Mainkai 10.

Casinos: Bad Homburg Casino is the nearest casino – in the spa town of Bad Homburg, just to the north of Frankfurt, on Im Kurpark. Table gambling is available 1500-0300. It costs ¬2.50 for a day card and the minimum age is 18 years – ID in the form of a driving licence or passport is required. Dress code is smart, with no jeans, sports clothes, sandals or trainers. A jacket and tie are required for men.

Clubs: Nachtleben, Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 45, is two places in one – upstairs a trendy bar and downstairs a dance club playing house on Thursday and drum’n’bass on Saturday. Galerie, Düsseldorfer Strasse 1-7 (website: www.galerie-frankfurt.de), is where the young and trendy enjoy live sets, dance music, theatre performances and unusual art exhibitions. House and trance features prominently at the gay club, Blue Angel, Brönnerstrasse 17 (website: www.blueangel-online.de). Das 21. Jahrhundert, Oeder Weg 21 (website: www.das-21-jahrhundert.de), hosts DJs from around the world every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. A palatial villa in Bethmann Park is the chic setting of the Odeon disco, Seilerstrasse 34 (website: www.theodeon.de). A more alternative, almost kitsch, venue is Schaubar, Saalburgstrasse 61 (website:www.schaubar.de).

Live Music: The most exciting venue in the city is Die Brotfabrik, Bachmannstrasse 2-4 (website: www.brotfabrik.de), which features live international music. There is also a café and restaurant on site. Batschkapp, Maybachstrasse 24 (website: www.batschkapp.de), hosts rock, pop and DJ acts, with guests including German punk rockers Die Toten Hosen and famous names like Tracy Chapman and Napalm Death. Cabaret and live concerts get an airing at Sinkkasten, Brönnerstrasse 5-9 (website: www.sinkkasten-frankfurt.de) and Neues Theater Höchst, Emmerich-Josef-Strasse 46a (website: www.neues-theater.de). The most famous and atmospheric venue on Jazzgasse is Der Jazzkeller, Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse 18a (website: www.jazzkeller.com), which is open Wednesday to Sunday. NuJazz is featured at the popular live music venue, King Kamehameha, Hanauer Landstrasse 192 (website: www.king-kamehameha.de).

International pop and rock stars pack out the Festhalle, Ludwig-Erhard-Anlage 1 (website: www.messefrankfurt.com/corporate/de/festhalle.html) and Jahrhunderthalle Frankfurt, Pfaffenwiese Frankfurt-Höchst (website: www.jahrhunderthalle.de).

Variety: Tiger Palast, Heiligkreuzgasse 16-20 (website: www.tigerpalast.com), a converted chapel, hosts celebrated variety shows featuring magicians and circus performers, with a restaurant, bar and bistro on site. The first and oldest cabaret in town is Die Käs, Waldschmidtstrasse 19 (website: www.die-kaes.com), which guarantees German humour at its best, while Neues Theater Höchst, Emmerich-Josef-Strasse 46a (website: www.neues-theater.de), also puts on a good show every now and again.

City Statistics

Location: Hessen, central Germany.
Country dialling code: 49.
Population: 655,000 (city); 4.9 million (Rhine-Main region).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1°C (34°F).
Average July temp: 19°C (66°F).
Annual rainfall: 640mm (25 inches).

Special Events

Ambiente, trade fair for consumer goods, Feb, Messegelände (website: www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com)
Frühjahrs Dippemess, traditional spring festival, Apr-May, Festplatz
ACHEMA, chemical engineering, environmental protection and biotechnology trade fair, May, Messegelände (website: www.achema.de)
Wäldchestag, folk festival, May-Jun, Stadtwald
Opernplatzfest, culinary festival, Jun-Jul, Opernplatz
Mainfest (Main Festival), Jul-Aug, between Paulsplatz and Mainkai (website: www.mainfest.de) Museumsuferfest (Museum Embankment Festival), Jul/Aug, Schaumainkai (website: www.museumsuferfest.de)
Tendence Lifestyle, trade fair for consumer goods, late Aug, Messegelände (website: www.tendence-lifestyle.messefrankfurt.com)
Rheingau Weinmarkt (Rheingau Wine Market), Aug-Sep, Freßgass (website: www.rheingau.de)
Race for the Cure, marathon, Sep, Sachsenhausen (website: www.raceforthecure.de)
Herbst-Dippemess, traditional autumn festival, Sep, Festplatz
Eurocity Marathon Messe Frankfurt, late Oct, Frankfurt Messe (website: www.frankfurt-marathon.com)
Frankfurter Buchmesse (Frankfurt Book Fair), Oct, Messegelände (website: www.buchmesse.de)
Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market), Nov-Dec, Römerberg, Paulsplatz, Liebfrauenberg, Neue Kräme, Fahrtor and Mainkai

Cost of Living

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005