World City Guide

Culture

It was Voltaire’s own theatrical productions in the Château de Ferney, in 1759, that initiated the theatrical tradition in Geneva. In 1783, the Théâtre de Neuve was built and this was replaced by the present Grand Théâtre de Genève, designed in the style of the Second Empire and directly inspired by the Paris Opera House. Today, the 1500-seat theatre is extremely active, with strong opera, ballet and choral seasons.

The Geneva Tourist Office and weekly guide Genève Agenda (in French and English) provide information on cultural events and performance in the city. The central ticket office, Billetel (tel: (022) 311 9970; website: www.billetel.org), is located at Arcade d’Information, on the Pont de la Machine.

Music: Pinchas Steinberg succeeded Fabio Luisi as the artistic director of the Orchestre de la Suisse Romande (website: www.osr.ch) in January 2001. The majority of productions are performed in the Grand Théâtre, Boulevard du Théâtre 11 (tel: (022) 418 3130; website: www.geneveopera.ch). The orchestral season runs from September to June and the repertoire ranges from classical to contemporary. The prestigious Victoria Hall, Rue du Général-Dufour 14 (tel: (022) 328 8121), welcomes local groups, such as Geneva Chamber Music, as well as international orchestras and performers. The building was financed by the British Consul General, Daniel Firzerlad Barton, and named after both the British monarch and his own wife Victoria Alexandra. It was originally built for the consul’s orchestra, L’Harmonie Nautique (website: www.harmonie-nautique.ch), which played during the boating season, from 1891-93, and was given to the city in 1904. The climax of the musical year is the International Competition for Musical Performers, a contest for young international musicians. Many important concerts are given by students at the Conservatoire de Musique, Rue Petitot 8 (tel: (022) 319 6060; website: www.cmusge.ch). There are about eight major opera productions per year, performed largely at the Grand Théâtre but also at the Salle Théodore Turrettini, Place des Volontaires 2, in the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices, a former factory on the banks of the River Rhône.

Theatre: Geneva has some 40 theatres, whose repertoires range from classical to avant-garde. While plays are normally in French, there are several popular English-language amateur groups. The main venue is the Comédie de Genève, Boulevard des Philosophes 6 (tel: (022) 320 5001), which has a classical and contemporary repertoire. The Théâtre Le Poche-Genève, Rue du Cheval-Blanc 7 (tel: (022) 310 3759), founded in 1978, specialises in contemporary drama.

Dance: Giorgio Mancini is responsible for the artistic direction of the Ballet du Grand Théâtre (website: www.geneveopera.ch), with a varied repertory that ranges from neo-classical to contemporary. In addition to the main ballet season from September to June, the company organises a number of thematic evenings at the Grand Théâtre, Boulevard du Théâtre 11 (tel: (022) 418 3130), and in local theatres, such as the Théâtre du Loup, Chemin de la Gravière 10. The 46-strong choir of the Grand Théâtre, regularly participates in the ballet and opera seasons.

Film: Geneva is the cinema capital of French-speaking Switzerland. Homegrown stars include Jean-Luc Bideau, whose career was launched by Swiss director Alain Tanner in La Salamandre (1971). The most well known, among over 30 cinemas (website: www.cinema.ch), are the large 7 Rialto Metrocine complex, Place de Cornavin 27 (tel: (0900) 900 156), and the Central, Rue de Chantepoulet 23 (tel: (022) 908 0430, for information in English). There are also many arthouse cinemas, including Scala, Rue des Eaux-Vives 23 (tel: (022) 736 0422). Many English-language films are shown in their original version (VO) and French-language versions often have English subtitles.

Cultural events: Geneva’s main cultural event is the Eté Musicale (Musical Summer) of live concerts, including chamber music, jazz concerts and recitals, from July to September. Summer is also the time for open-air everything. Popular films are shown in the city’s open-air cinema, Cinélac, by the lakeside, from July to August. National Day, 1 August, brings fireworks at the Reformation Wall, traditional bonfires and dancing. This is followed closely by the Fêtes de Genève’s street parades, street theatre and fireworks, 2-11 August. The annual international film festival, Cinéma Tout Ecran, takes place in October (website: www.cinema-tout-ecran.ch). Free concerts are held in churches all year round.

There are two major musical events worth stepping just outside of Geneva for and both take place in July. The Paléo Festival (tel: (022) 361 0101; website: www.paleo.ch) in nearby Nyon, is Switzerland’s biggest open-air festival. It includes everything musical, from classical to techno, bringing together major names like Prodigy, Charles Trenet and Steve Waring. The Montreux Jazz Festival (tel: (021) 623 4567; website: www.montreuxjazz.com) showcases a mixture of jazz musicians and pop stars. Former performers include Bob Dylan, Buddy Guy, B B King and Bjôrk.

Meanwhile, back in Geneva, the Fête de l’Escalade (website: www.escalade.ch) is Geneva’s independence celebration, which commemorates the city’s victory over the Duke of Savoy’s troops on 11 December 1602. Each year, fine-quality Swiss chocolate pots (Marmite d’Escalade) bearing the city’s coat of arms in red and gold and adorned with marzipan ‘vegetables’ are eaten in large quantities. These represent sweet reminders of the cauldron of boiling soup that Mère Royaume poured over the city walls to keep the enemy at bay and bring victory to Geneva. It’s a colourful affair as people parade through in the streets in 17th-century dress to the sounds of fifes and drums.

Literary Notes
Geneva has inspired some of Europe’s greatest philosophers and writers. Paris-born François Marie Arouet Voltaire (1694-1778) fled from the persecution of the French Church and State to arrive in Geneva in 1755. He stayed in Les Délices, which he fondly described as ‘the palace of a philosopher with the garden of an epicure’. The mansion is now a documentation centre, the Institut et Musée Voltaire, Rue des Délices 25 (tel: (022) 344 7133). In Candide (1759), Voltaire described the crushing injustices of the world. An equally convincing argument for freedom and justice came in the form of The Social Contract (1762), by Geneva-born Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778). Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Bryron’s stay in Geneva gave rise to Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein (1818). The city has most recently inspired actor Sir Peter Ustinov; his novel, Monsieur René (1999), is set in modern Geneva.