World City Guide

Glasgow has seen more changes in the past two decades than almost any other British city. From a declining industrial centre with widespread pessimism about its future, Glasgow has been transformed into a forward-looking city and one of the hippest spots in Europe. There has always been an enormous sense of pride in the city’s history – the long list of inventors, engineers, writers and architects of the 19th and 20th centuries were part of the driving force of industrialisation, tamed by socially progressive values in the ‘second city’ of the British Empire.

With ports on the Clyde giving access to the Irish Sea, Glasgow was an important shipbuilding centre and well known for massive engineering works, where the locomotives of the nation were produced. Its former wealth can still be seen in the classical architecture of Alexander ‘Greek’ Thomson and the Art Nouveau style of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. During the 19th century, the grid of the commercial centre streets was laid out to the west of the Merchant City, whose Palladian mansions had been commissioned by industrial barons in the previous century. The West End (the area surrounding the hill, on which the University of Glasgow sits) is separated from the commercial centre by the Kelvin River and the brooding expanse of Kelvingrove Park.

In the post-war period, the city suffered a decline and the population halved from its peak of 1.1 million in 1939 (despite this, Glasgow is still the UK’s fourth largest city). Large, bleak council estates in the city suburbs, poverty and widespread unemployment led to problems with the infamous razor gangs and a general malaise in the city. In recent years, Glasgow has picked up again and there seems to be a definite spring in its step. The city is turning its economic fortunes around, as heavy industry gives way to 21st-century technology, with call centres, financial services and information technology. Arguably, the driving forces of this revolution have been the cultural and artistic fields. Scottish film, theatre, writing, music and design are all pushing boundaries and capturing worldwide attention. The opening of the Burrell Collection in 1983 (housing an art collection gifted by a shipping magnate) inspired the growth of a thriving museum and gallery scene that has helped propel Glasgow into becoming a top tourist destination.

With a world-class art gallery and several excellent museums as a starting point, Glasgow was chosen as a European city of culture in 1990. From this point on, the various strands of its post-industrial economy and burgeoning cultural sector, combined with a large student population (there are four universities in the area and many colleges), have given the city a youthful, progressive character. For visitors that tire of the city’s delights, Glasgow offers easy access to some of Scotland’s beautiful mountains, glens, lochs and unspoilt coastline. Loch Lomond, for instance, is only 32km (20 miles) away.

The city’s northern latitude means that although summer days are long and light, the weather tends to be unpredictable throughout the year and can be particularly cold and wet in winter.

Getting There By Air

Glasgow International Airport (GLA)
Tel: (0870) 040 0008.
Website: www.baa.co.uk

The airport is located 13km (8 miles) to the west of the city centre. Glasgow International is Scotland’s busiest airport and the fourth busiest in the UK, with over eight million passengers per year, flying to 76 scheduled and 60 charter destinations.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, left luggage, shops, duty-free shops, buffet, bar, cafés, restaurants, tourist information and baby-care rooms. Wheelchairs, toilets and telephones for the disabled are also available. Car hire companies that are represented include Alamo, Avis, Europcar, Budget and National.

Transport to the city: There are rail connections (see Getting There By Rail) to Glasgow Central station from Paisley Gilmour Street station, which is 3km (2 miles) from the airport. There are trains every day (journey time – 11-15 minutes). Paisley Gilmour Street station is linked to the airport by bus no. 60 (see Public Transport in Getting Around), and bus no. 300.

The M8 motorway links the airport with the city. Bus no. 905 is provided by Citylink and Fairline Coaches – branded Glasgow Airport Link (tel: (08705) 505 050; website: www.citylink.co.uk). The buses drop passengers off at various stops, including the rail and bus station, on its journey to Glasgow’s city centre (journey time – approximately 20 minutes).

Metered taxis are available 24 hours a day from the front of the main terminal building (journey time – 20 minutes). Cab Fly (tel: (0141) 848 4588) is the taxi management company for the airport. The fare from the airport to the city centre is about £16-17.

Traveline (tel: (0870) 608 2608; website: www.traveline.org.uk) provides information on all public transport.

Glasgow Prestwick International Airport (PIK)
Tel: (01292) 511 000 or (0871) 223 0700.
Website: www.gpia.co.uk

Billing itself as ‘Scotland’s Independent Airport’, Prestwick International is located on the coast, 52km (32 miles) to the southwest of Glasgow, offering limited scheduled services as well as charter flights.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a tax- and duty-free shop, bureau de change, newsagent, gift shop, left luggage, cafés and bars. Car hire is provided by Avis, Europcar, Hertz and National.

Transport to the city: Prestwick Airport has its own railway station, connected to the airport by a covered walkway. ScotRail (tel: (08457) 550 033; website: www.firstscotrail.co.uk) operates a service with trains departing for Glasgow Central station regularly. For travel last thing at night, when public transport is not running, the airport bus X99 runs to Glasgow and the X100 to Edinburgh. Pre book on the airport’s website.

The A77 (which becomes the M77) is the main road route to the city (journey time – 40 minutes). A coach service is provided by Stagecoach West (tel: (01292) 613 700 or (0141) 552 4961; website: www.stagecoachbus.co.uk), with buses running regularly. The hourly X77 Express Service runs Monday-Saturday (no service on Sunday) (journey time – 50 minutes). The 4 Airbus runs regularly every day (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes) to Buchanan Street Station.

Passengers of certain airlines flying from Prestwick International Airport are entitled to a 50% reduction in their ScotRail or Stagecoach fares to the airport from anywhere in Scotland.

Taxis are available from Black Cabs (tel: (01292) 471 600) for the half-hour journey to Glasgow’s city centre.

Approximate flight times to Glasgow: From London is 1 hour 15 minutes; from New York is 6 hours 50 minutes; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 6 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 23 hours 5 minutes.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Traffic in Britain drives on the left and overtakes on the right. Main roads are designated by a letter, followed by up to four numbers – an ‘M’ indicates a motorway, ‘A’ a major trunk road and ‘B’ a minor road. The speed limits are 113kph (70mph) on motorways, 97kph (60mph) on single-lane main roads and 48kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Seatbelts are compulsory and motorcyclists must wear helmets. The maximum amount of alcohol allowed in the blood while driving is 0.08%.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Overseas driving licences and International Driving Permits are valid for driving in Britain for up to one year. Insurance is mandatory. In addition to licences or permits, overseas visitors using their own car should bring registration documents and check with their insurance company as to whether a Green Card is needed.

Breakdown service and general motoring information is available from the Automobile Association (tel: (0870) 600 0371; website: www.theaa.com), the Royal Automobile Club (tel: (08705) 722 722; website: www.rac.co.uk) and Green Flag (tel: (0845) 246 1557; website: www.greenflag.co.uk).

Emergency breakdown services (toll free):
AA (0800) 887 766
RAC (0800) 828 282
Green Flag (0800) 051 0636

Routes to the city: Glasgow is linked to Edinburgh by the M8 motorway – passing west to the airport and the Clyde Coast – and to England and Wales by the M74, which becomes the M6 further south, toward Manchester. From there, the M1 continues south to London. The Clyde Valley Tourist Route, a more scenic route that runs through the valley parallel to the M74, has distinctive brown and white signs to guide motorists.

Approximate driving times to Glasgow: From Edinburgh – 1 hour; Manchester – 3 hours 50 minutes; London – 7 hours.

Coach services: Coaches arrive at Buchanan Bus Station, Killermont Street (tel: (0141) 333 3708). Information on all coach and public transport is provided by Traveline (tel: (0870) 608 2608; website: www.traveline.org.uk) and bookings are made with the individual operators.

Scottish Citylink Coaches (tel: (08705) 505 050 ; website: www.citylink.co.uk) offers regular commuter services between Glasgow, Glasgow Airport and Edinburgh (journey time – 70 minutes). Longer distance services from most major Scottish cities (including Campbeltown, Skye, Inverness and Aberdeen) are also available. National Express (tel: (08705) 808 080; website: www.nationalexpress.com) operates nationwide services from London, Manchester and other destinations.

Getting There By Rail

With incompetent administration and ongoing industrial action throughout Britain’s rail industry, delays and schedule changes occasionally occur. Rail service can also be pricey at peak times or if not booked in advance. Virgin Trains (tel: (08457) 222 333; website: www.virgintrains.co.uk), GNER (tel: (08457) 225 225; website: www.gner.co.uk) and Scotrail (tel: (0845) 755 0033; website: www.firstscotrail.co.uk) operate the majority of services to Glasgow. National Rail Enquiries (tel: (08457) 484 950; website: www.nationalrail.co.uk) provides 24-hour information for all train companies in Britain.

Glasgow is served by two main rail stations – Glasgow Central station, Argyle Street, has train services from London and other English cities, while Queen Street station, Queen Street, receives services from Edinburgh and the north of Scotland. Facilities at Glasgow Central include a travel centre, ATMs, bureau de change, left luggage, shops, cafés and bars. Taxis and car hire are also available nearby, while buses link the station with Queen Street station and Buchanan bus station. Facilities at Queen Street station are a little more basic. However, this station is adjacent to the main shopping precinct.

Rail services: Virgin Trains operates West Coast mainline services to London Euston, while GNER runs services on the East Coast mainline route to London Kings Cross via Edinburgh. There are up to 15 direct services a day and the journey takes between 5 hours 20 minutes and 6 hours. ScotRail offers a night-train service on the ‘Caledonian Sleeper’ to Euston (journey time – approximately 7 hours). ScotRail also offers services from Oban, Fort William, Dundee, Aberdeen and Inverness, as well as a regular service from Edinburgh (journey time – 50 minutes) to Queen Street station and from Carlisle, Largs, Lanark, Ayr, Kilmarnock, East Kilbride, Dumfries and Stranraer to Glasgow Central station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Strathclyde Passenger Transport (tel: (0870) 608 2608, for the Traveline information hotline; website: www.spt.co.uk) is the region’s passenger transport authority and manages the underground. Information and tickets can also be obtained in person from the Travel Centre, St Enoch Square (Monday-Saturday 0830-1730) and at Buchanan bus station (Monday-Saturday 0630-2230 and Sunday 0700-2230). There are also Travel Centres at domestic arrivals at Glasgow Airport and Hillhead underground station.

Glasgow is served by a 15-station underground system known as the ‘Clockwork Orange’, which runs in a six-mile loop through the city centre and the West End, every four-eight minutes, Monday-Saturday 0630-2320 and Sunday 1100-1750. There are connections to overland rail services at Queen Street station via Buchanan Street underground and to commuter rail services at Partick station. Underground tickets are available for purchase from ticket machines or counters, which are located in the station.

The suburban commuter rail network, run by ScotRail (tel: (0845) 755 0033; website: www.firstscotrail.co.uk) on behalf of the SPT (see above), is the largest in Britain outside of London. Services run between 0630 and 2400, although different services vary, with later starts at the weekend. National Rail Enquiries (tel: (08457) 484 950; website: www.nationalrail.co.uk) provides 24-hour information on timetables and fares. Tickets are available for purchase from ticket machines or counters, which are located in the stations.

These services are complemented by an extensive bus network, which is provided by a number of competing operators. Services run roughly between 0600 and 2300 Monday-Friday, with a slightly later start at the weekend. However, some specific routes continue through the night. Tickets are available for purchase (exact change only) from the driver.

The Discovery Ticket pass offers unlimited underground travel for one day (not valid before 0930 Monday-Saturday), while the Roundabout Ticket allows for unlimited travel by train and underground for one day (not valid before 0900 Monday-Friday). The Daytripper Ticket is valid for the underground, rail, most buses and some ferries. Passes are available at Travel Centres and larger rail stations.

Taxis
Taxis are widely available and black hackney cabs can be hailed on the street. All are licensed and have meters fitted. Tipping is appreciated but not compulsory. The largest operator is Glasgow Wide TOA Ltd (tel: (0141) 429 7070; website: www.gwtoa.co.uk).

Driving in the City
Glasgow’s city centre is fairly compact and most hotels are centrally located, so a car is not necessary for getting around. Nevertheless, general driving conditions, parking and access generally is good. The rush hours of 0700-0930 and 1600-1830 are best avoided.

There is a 24-hour car park at Concert Square, which is constantly manned. For theatregoers, two ticket machines within the car park offer cheap tickets after 1800, which can be bought before going to the theatre. These are valid all evening.

Car Hire
The minimum age for hiring a car is 25 years – drivers aged 23-24 years might be able to hire a car, although an extra charge applies. Overseas driving licences and International Driving Permits are accepted. The hire price includes legal liability, third party and public liability, which are all required by law.

In addition to a number of local car hire operators, Avis, 70 Lancefield Street (tel: (0141) 221 2827 or 0870 0100 287; website: www.avis.co.uk), Budget, Glasgow Airport (tel: (0141) 889 1479; website: www.budget.co.uk), Europcar, 38 Anderston Quay (tel: (0141) 248 8788; website: www.europcar.co.uk), Hertz, 138 Hydepark Street (tel: (0141) 248 7736; website: www.hertz.co.uk), National/Alamo, 76 Lancefield Quay, Strathclyde (tel: (0141) 204 1051; website: www.nationalcar.com), and Sixt Rent-a- car/Kenning, 192 Battlefield Road (tel: 0870 1567 567; website: www.e-sixt.co.uk), are also represented in Glasgow.

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles are available for hire from West End Cycles, 16-18 Chancellor Street, Partick (tel: (0141) 357 1344).

There are plans to extend Greater Glasgow’s 120km (75-mile) cycling network to 375km (233 miles); it is linked to the 16,093km (10,000-mile) National Cycle Network, which includes a path from Glasgow to Loch Lomond. Further information is available from the Cycling Development Project (tel: (0141) 287 9000; website: www.scottishcycling.org.uk) and the Cyclists Touring Club (tel: (0870) 873 0060; website: www.ctc.org.uk), which has information on local cycling clubs. Sustrans (tel: (0131) 539 8122 or 0845 113 0065; website: www.sustrans.org.uk) provides a list of free cycling publications and information on the National Cycle Network on its website.

Business

Business Etiquette
Business travellers to Glasgow should find no surprises in the way in which business is carried out. The atmosphere is a little more relaxed than in cities such as London, although normal standards of business attire apply (suits, with ties for men) and punctuality is important. Most companies operate during standard business hours of Monday-Friday 0900-1700.

Clients are usually well entertained by their Glasgow hosts, most likely taken to lunch in a restaurant or pub (depending on the formality of the business meeting) or to a restaurant in the evening. It is not usual for clients to be invited to one’s home. If this is the case, however, visitors should take a gift of flowers, wine or whisky.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
In 1999, Glasgow was awarded the title of UK City of Architecture and Design, which attests to the great variety of high-quality design within the city, with Victorian, Regency, Art Nouveau and ultra-modern styles all represented. The most famous architect and designer associated with the city (and the one who has indelibly left his mark upon it) is Charles Rennie Mackintosh, born in Glasgow in 1868. Another notable architect was Alexander ‘Greek’ Thomson. Glasgow is also justifiably famous for the artistic collections housed in its museums and galleries, most of which do not charge an admission fee.

Most of the city’s sights are situated on the north bank of the River Clyde. Here, central Glasgow’s street grid extends eastward to encompass the Merchant City. Within these two districts are the main shopping precincts, theatres and much of the nightlife, as well as The Lighthouse, Glasgow School of Art and Gallery of Modern Art. Further east, Glasgow Cathedral is overshadowed by the huge Necropolis, while to the north is Mackintosh’s Queen’s Cross Church.

Beyond the M8 motorway is the green expanse of Kelvingrove Park – within its precincts sits the Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove. Overlooking the park are the grounds of the magnificent University of Glasgow, home to the Hunterian Art Gallery and Mackintosh House, with the studenty West End and the Botanic Gardens beyond. To the south of Kelvingrove, the ‘armadillo’ convention centre faces the Glasgow Science Centre on the Clyde’s south bank, while the Burrell Collection is situated in the more distant Pollok Country Park.

Tourist Information
Visit Scotland Glasgow Information Centre
11 George Square
Tel: (0141) 204 4400. Fax: (0141) 221 3524.
E-mail: glasgow@visitscotland.com
Website: www.seeglasgow.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 1000-1800 (May-Jun and Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-2000, Sun 1000-1800 (Jul-Aug); Mon-Sat 0900-1800 (Oct-Apr).

There is also a tourist information desk at Glasgow International Airport.

Passes
There are no all inclusive tourist passes in Glasgow, seeing as most of the attractions are free. However, a leaflet entitled Glasgow’s Leading Attractions contains vouchers giving discounts to some attractions, such as the Willow Tea Rooms and a tour of the School of Art. This is available from the Tourist Information Centre.

Key Attractions

The Burrell Collection
The most famous of Glasgow’s art museums, The Burrell Collection, is a donation of 8,000 works of art from shipping magnate Sir William Burrell. In addition to paintings and drawings from the 15th to 19th century, the collection includes medieval European tapestries, stained glass and sculpture, as well as artworks from the Middle East and East Asia. The gallery opened in 1983, in the beautiful setting of Pollok Country Park. Also situated within the park is Pollok House, a fine old Georgian country house owned by the National Trust for Scotland. A courtesy bus runs around the park and stops at the Burrell buildings.

The Burrell Collection
Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road
Tel: (0141) 287 2550.
Website: www.glasgowmuseums.com
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs and Sat 1000-1700, Fri and Sun 1100-1700.
Free admission.

Pollok House
Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road
Tel: (0141) 616 6410.
Website: www.glasgowmuseums.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission charge (Apr-Oct); free (Nov-Mar).

The Lighthouse
Scotland’s Centre for Architecture, Design and the City was opened in summer 1999, as a key element of the 1999 City of Architecture and Design programme. The Lighthouse occupies the former Herald Building (designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh in 1895) and offers exhibition spaces for touring and special exhibits. It also houses the permanent Mackintosh Interpretation Centre, which profiles the architect’s work in the context of his contemporaries. The entrance fee includes access to the Mackintosh Tower, with its terrific views over the city.

11 Mitchell Lane
Tel: (0141) 221 6362.
Website: www.thelighthouse.co.uk
Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Sat 1030-1700, Tues 1100-1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission charge.

Glasgow Science Centre
Echoing the silver curves of the ‘armadillo’ , the GSC’s titanium clad shell houses the Science Mall, with hundreds of hands-on exhibits covering the spectrum of natural and applied sciences. A tunnel leads to the base of the 127m-high (417ft) Glasgow Tower, poised like a pencil standing on its tip. It is the only tower in the world that rotates to face the oncoming wind and although it offers stupendous views of the city, there is a fair bit of sway on the observation level. Rounding out the £75 million project is an IMAX Theatre.

50 Pacific Quay
Tel: (0141) 420 5000.
Website: www.glasgowsciencecentre.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Science Mall); daily 1100-1700 dependent on weather (Glasgow Tower); daily 1200-2000 (IMAX).
Admission charge.

People’s Palace
Purpose built in 1898, as a ‘palace of pleasure’ for the working classes, this museum now tells the story of the people of Glasgow. Exhibits cover everything from The Patter (the Glasgow dialect) to The Bevvy (the use of alcohol). The museum is both entertaining and informative. The winter garden (an enormous Victorian conservatory) is now a pleasant tea room.

Glasgow Green
Tel: (0141) 271 2951.
Website: www.glasgowmuseums.com
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs and Sat 1000-1700, Fri and Sun 1100-1700.
Free admission.

Glasgow School of Art
Designed by Mackintosh, the Glasgow School of Art was built in two phases, between 1897 and 1909, and is well worth a visit. Not only are there the architectural flourishes of the surprisingly airy building but also the library (containing all the original furnishings, except the chairs, which have been replaced by others designed by Mackintosh) and the Mackintosh Room, which has a selection of furniture designed for the houses he built. Since it is a working art school, admission is by guided tour only, at specified times. During the peak season, visitors are advised to reserve in advance.

167 Renfrew Street
Tel: (0141) 353 4500/26.
Website: www.gsa.ac.uk
Opening hours: Tour times (Apr-Sep) daily 1030, 1100, 1130, 1330, 1400, 1430; (Oct-Mar) Mon-Sat 1100, 1400.
Admission charge.

Hunterian Art Gallery and Mackintosh House
The art gallery at the University of Glasgow contains a substantial print collection (including works by Dürer and Beardsley) and international paintings from the 17th century to the present. A faithful reconstruction of the house, in which Mackintosh and his wife lived from 1906 to 1914, complete with representative interior decoration and original furniture, is also part of the gallery.

82 Hillhead Street
Tel: (0141) 330 5431.
Website: www.hunterian.gla.ac.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1700 (art gallery); Mon-Sat 0930--1700 (Mackintosh House).
Free admission.

Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove
This gallery and museum houses several displays, including a range of European paintings covering the 15th to the 17th centuries and the 1890s to the 1960s, as well as arms and armour and archaeology and natural history displays. The permanent Glasgow 1900 exhibition features paintings, furniture and decorative art objects dating from turn-of-the-century Glasgow. Please note that the museum is closed for refurbishment until Summer 2006.

Kelvingrove, Argyle Street
Tel: (0141) 287 2699.
Website: www.glasgowmuseums.com
Free admission.

Gallery of Modern Art
The Gallery of Modern Art, centrally located in the middle of Royal Exchange Square, offers an up-to-date vision within its four floors of gallery space. Showcasing the works of living artists, the gallery has an eye on the future, with a learning library and art workshops.

Royal Exchange Square, Queen Street
Tel: (0141) 229 1996.
Website: www.glasgow.gov.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Sat 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2000, Fri and Sun 1100-1700.
Free admission.

Further Distractions

St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art
This unusual museum has exhibitions that cover all the major religions and includes a Zen garden and Salvador Dali’s Christ of St John of the Cross. A short walk away is Glasgow Cathedral, founded by the city’s patron saint, St Kentigern (or Mungo), in the sixth century – the present building dates from the 14th century.

Castle Street, Cathedral Square
Tel: (0141) 553 2557.
Website: www.glasgowmuseums.com

Glasgow Botanic Gardens
Visitors can get a breath of fresh air in Glasgow Botanic Gardens. The 17-hectare (42.5-acre) gardens provide a park-like setting for the glasshouses, the most notable of which is the Kibble Palace.

730 Great Western Road
Tel: (0141) 334 2422.

Clydebuilt
Part of the Scottish Maritime Museum, this attraction on the Clyde celebrates the city’s shipbuilding heritage. Includes displays on the life of an ocean trader and a visit on board the oldest Clydebuilt vessel still afloat. The museum can be reached by water bus from the city centre (tel: 07711 250 969).

King’s Inch Road, Braehead
Tel: (0141) 886 1013.
Website: www.scottishmaritimemuseum.org

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Scottish Tourist Guides Association (tel: (01786) 447 784 or 451 953; website: www.stga.co.uk) provides guides who give walking tours of the city or the surrounding area. Tours must be pre-booked. Itineraries and meeting points are flexible. Glasgow Guides (tel: (01355) 302986) also provides guides who can be booked for city tours. Again, itineraries and meeting points are flexible.

Other tour operators include Mercat Tours (tel: (0141) 586 5378; website: www.mercat-glasgow.co.uk), which runs a ‘Horror Walking Tour’ (booking essential, times vary).. Tours set off from various pre-arranged spots in the city, taking in Glasgow’s spookiest sights.

Bus Tours
Open-top bus tours covering the city’s main attractions are offered all year round by Scotguide/City Sightseeing (tel: (0141) 204 0444; website: www.scotguide.com and www.city-sightseeing.com). The ‘Glasgow Tour’ tickets are valid for 48 hours, so passengers can hop on and off at sites of interest along the route, which sets off from George Square. There is also a 24 hour hop-on, hop-off ticket.

The Charles Rennie Mackintosh Society (tel: (0141) 946 6600; website: www.crmsociety.com) offers various weekend coach tours of the city and its surrounds, visiting all of the buildings associated with the architect.

Other Tours
The P S Waverley (tel: 0845 130 4647 or (0141) 221 8152 website: www.waverleyexcursions.co.uk), the world’s last sea-going paddle steamer, explores the Firth of Clyde. Departures are from the Science Centre (Jun-Aug only).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Loch Lomond: Britain’s largest expanse of fresh water captures the Scottish landscape in microcosm. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (tel: (01389) 722 600; website: www.lochlomond-trossachs.org), Scotland’s first national park, is located some 20km (12 miles) northwest of Glasgow and offers an excellent chance to watch wildlife and experience a taste of highland scenery. Balloch is the largest town on Loch Lomond and is reachable by train from Queen Street station (low level). The Balloch Tourist Information Office (tel: 08707 200 607; website: www.visitscottishheartlands.com), open from April to October, provides further information. The office and a park orientation centre are situated in the Loch Lomond Shores visitor attraction and shopping complex.

For a Whole Day

New Lanark: Nominated as a World Heritage Site, this village is the realisation of idealistic social planning in the Industrial Age. Founded in 1785, near the Falls of Clyde, this cotton-spinning village has been restored as a living community and tourist attraction, with one of the mills being converted into a hotel. The New Lanark Visitor Centre (tel: (01555) 661 345; website: www.newlanark.org) has interpretative displays and the ‘New Millennium Experience’ ride. Trains run from Glasgow Central station (low level) to Lanark, from where buses are available to New Lanark. The Lanark Tourist Information Centre, Horsemarket, Ladyacre (tel: (01555) 661 661) provides further information, including bus timetables and fares.

Edinburgh: Located approximately 50km (31 miles) east of Glasgow, and less than one hour away by train, this great Scottish city and apparent rival of Glasgow is famous for its brooding castle and riotous Hogmanay revelries to bring in the new year. The Edinburgh and Scotland Information Centre, 3 Princes Street (tel: (0845) 22 55 121 website: www.edinburgh.org) provides further information and is open Monday-Saturday 0900-1700 (open later in summer). See the Edinburgh city guide for details.

Sport

Shopping

Glasgow is the second largest retail centre in the UK, outside of London. The vibrant shopping district in the heart of the city is focused around the pedestrianised areas of Buchanan Street, Argyll Street and Sauchiehall Street. Argyll Arcade, one of Britain’s oldest covered shopping arcades, built in 1827, is home to many jewellery shops, while the Buchanan Galleries (website: www.buchanangalleries.co.uk) is one of Britain’s largest city centre retail projects with outlets such as Mango, Gap and John Lewis. Other highlights include the refurbished St Enoch Centre (website: www.stenoch.co.uk), the Designer Exchange, off Royal Exchange Square, and Princes Square, set in a renovated 1841 square.

The Merchant City area and the West End have a wealth of unique bookshops, antique stores and second-hand clothing emporia. The Barras (the open-air street market between Gallowgate and London Road in the East End) is open for business at the weekend, 1000-1700, for the sale of antiques, bric-à-brac, clothing, food, CDs, books and just about anything a shopaholic could think of.

Popular ‘traditional’ purchases include woollens, tartan scarves and kilts, Celtic jewellery, golfing equipment and, of course, whisky. Articles with Art Nouveau ‘Mackintosh’ motifs are a stylish alternative. The Whisky Shop in Princes Square has a comprehensive collection of fine malts as well as other liqueurs and whisky-flavoured souvenirs and gifts.

In general, shops are open Monday to Saturday 0900-1730/1800. Many shops are open later on Thursday and most of the larger chain stores are open on Sunday.

A Value Added Tax (VAT) of 17.5% is included in the price of many goods. Under the Retail Export Scheme, overseas visitors can obtain tax relief on goods if leaving the country for destinations outside the EU. A form should be obtained at the time of purchase and submitted to the customs authority at the point of departure.

Culture

In recent years, Glasgow’s rediscovered exuberance has been expressed by a new wave of Scottish writers, an energetic live music scene and the flourishing of contemporary art and design.

Tickets to cultural events are available from the venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (020) 7316 4709; website: www.ticketmaster.co.uk). The main guide to cultural events is The List (website: www.list.co.uk).

Music: Glasgow has a healthy popular and independent music scene (see Nightlife). High culture is also well represented, from September to April, by two symphony orchestras and Scotland’s national opera company. Scottish Opera (tel: (0141) 248 4567; website: www.scottishopera.org.uk), is the largest performing arts organisation in Scotland, performing at the Theatre Royal, 282 Hope Street (tel: (0141) 240 1111; website: www.theatreroyalglasgow.com). The Royal Scottish National Orchestra (tel: (0141) 226 3868; website: www.rsno.org.uk) is Scotland’s leading symphony orchestra. Its popular Proms concerts take place in June, at the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, 2 Sauchiehall Street (tel: (0141) 353 8000; website: www.grch.com). The BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra (tel: (0141) 338 2606; website: www.bbc.co.uk/bbcsso) can be seen live at various venues including the BBC HQ on Queen Margaret Drive. When the City Hall, on Candleriggs, in the Merchant City, re-opens after refurbishment in 2006, it will become the orchestra’s permanent home (tel: (0141) 353 8000). This is also the Glasgow home of the Scottish Chamber Orchestra (website: www.sco.org.uk). The Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama (RSAMD), 100 Renfrew Street (tel: (0141) 332 4101; website: www.rsamd.ac.uk), puts on a wide range of performing arts productions.

Theatre: Glasgow has over a dozen theatres and performance venues showcasing local pieces and a variety of contemporary works as well as old favourites and touring productions. The 600-seat Citizen’s Theatre, 119 Gorbals Street (tel: (0141) 429 0022; website: www.citz.co.uk), is one of the best places for theatregoers to witness groundbreaking contemporary drama and re-workings of foreign and historical pieces. The Circle and The Stalls are studio venues on the same site. The late-19th-century facade of the King’s Theatre, 297 Bath Street (tel: (0141) 240 1111; website: www.theambassadors.com/kings), belies the lively musicals that are performed inside.

Dance: The Scottish Ballet (tel: (0141) 331 2931; website: www.scottishballet.co.uk) performs at the Theatre Royal, 282 Hope Street (tel: (0141) 240 1111; website: www.theatreroyalglasgow.com), and is Scotland’s national dance company.

Film: The Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT), 12 Rose Street (tel: (0141) 332 8128; website: www.gft.org.uk), an Art Deco landmark, is a repertory cinema with a varied programme of foreign, independent, arthouse, classic and popular films. Mainstream cinemas in the city include a state-of-the-art, 12-screen multiplex off Paisley Road, Odeon at the Quay (tel: (0871) 22 44 007; website: www.odeon.co.uk) and the new UGC Renfrew Street, 7 Renfrew Street (tel: (0871) 200 2000; website: www.ugccinemas.co.uk), near the main shopping precinct.

An increasing number of films are shot and produced in Glasgow each year. Large parts of the hit films Shallow Grave (1994) and Trainspotting (1996) were filmed here, as was Small Faces (1996), which captures the gang violence on a Glasgow housing estate in 1968. Carla’s Song (1996) and My Name is Joe (1998), both directed by Ken Loach, were also filmed and set in Glasgow. Released in 1999, Ratcatcher is an atmospheric portrayal of the city’s poorer side, seen through the eyes of a 12-year-old boy in the 1970s. Three 2005 releases were shot in the city: On a Clear Day, directed by Gaby Dellal, is about the Govan shipyards; Unleashed, starring Morgan Freeman and Jet Li, an action film; and the psychological thriller The Jacket starring Keira Knightley.

Literary Notes: Traditional Scottish heritage continues to influence the cultural scene in Glasgow and remains a source of intense pride. There is a deep-rooted attachment to Scottish literature and poetry, particularly the works of Robert Burns, celebrated each year on Burns Night (25 January). The Mitchell Library, on North Street, has a large collection of his poetry in its Robert Burns Room.

Glasgow has drawn the praise of a number of literary admirers, including Daniel Defoe, Sir John Betjeman (who described it as the most perfect Victorian city centre in the UK) and Bill Bryson, who voted Glasgow as his favourite city in Britain.

In the past couple of decades, Glasgow has experienced something of a literary renaissance. Lanark (1981), Alisdair Gray’s debut novel, set in a fictional version of Glasgow and combining elements of fantasy, science fiction, autobiography and social realism, has become a cult classic. William McIlvanney’s Laidlaw crime novels are set in Glasgow, as is James Kelman’s Booker Prize-winning How Late It Was, How Late (1994), which traces the life of a down-on-his-luck Glaswegian, through stream-of-consciousness Scots dialect.

Nightlife

Unlike England and Wales, licensing laws in Scotland allow for much variation – bars may stay open all day, until 2400 or only between 1230-1430 and 1830-2300, while clubs are often open as late as 0300, although last entry is usually at 0100. There are over 700 pubs and bars in the city (evidence that Glaswegians like a tipple now and again) as well as numerous nightclubs catering for all musical tastes. A number of the venues listed below blur the boundaries, morphing from bar to club and often serving very decent meals as well.

The nightlife scene varies from the student hangouts of the West End to style bars in the Merchant City. The minimum drinking age is 18 and there are generally no dress codes, although smarter clubs may not permit jeans or trainers.

Tickets for most events can be purchased at Virgin Megastore, Buchanan Street (tel: 0141) 353 2993) or through the Ticket Centre (tel: (0870) 040 4000; website: www.secctickets.com). The main guide to going out is The List (website: www.list.co.uk).

Bars: The Horseshoe, 17 Drury Street, has the longest continuous bar in the city, although it is still difficult to get a place there at the weekend. Bargo, 80 Albion Street, is a popular pre-clubbing venue with a stylish industrial interior in the Merchant City. Bar 10, 10 Mitchell Lane, just off Buchanan Street in the heart of the city, is a popular and stylish bar, serving food. Spy Bar, 153 Bath Street, is a happening pre-club hangout, with DJs at the weekend. The revamped Centre for Contemporary Arts, 350 Sauchiehall Street (website: www.cca-glasgow.com), attracts an arty crowd – and has club nights as well.

Casinos: The main gambling venues include the Stanley Berkeley Casino, 506-516 Sauchiehall Street, the Gala Casino Merchant City, 18 Glassford St and the Gala Riverboat Casino, 61 Broomielaw. Dress code is smart and only those over 18 years are allowed entrance. As with all casinos in the UK, membership (which must be applied for with appropriate ID, at least 24 hours in advance) is required.

Clubs: As in many cities, the club scene in Glasgow is ever evolving and the music and atmosphere of a venue can change from night to night. Check out The List or get some local advice if you do not like surprises. The Tunnel, 84 Mitchell Street, is a large club with top DJs spinning different styles of house. China White, 158 Bath Street, offers R&B sounds to the smart set, while Archaos, 25-37 Queen Street, offers everything from R&B, dance and house. The Arches (website: www.thearches.co.uk), located in a cavernous brick-vaulted space at 253 Argyle Street, has club nights in addition to live bands and theatre. The Corinthian, 191 Ingram Street, and nearby Artà, 13 Walls Street, are both happening spots in the Merchant City, serving food as well as tunes. The Polo Lounge, 84 Wilson Street, is a popular gay club.

Live Music: Large-scale pop and rock concerts take place at the Clyde Auditorium in the SECC, off junction 19 of the M8, with its own dedicated railway station (trains depart from Glasgow Central station), as well as at the Barrowland, 244 Gallowgate, near the Barras market and Carling Academy (website: www.glasgow-academy.co.uk) on Bridge Street. Up-and-coming bands play at the venerable King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, 272A St Vincent Street (website: www.kingtuts.co.uk), where the Mancunian band, Oasis, was discovered. The Bar Fly Club, 260 Clyde Street, is another good spot, with a range of styles. Jazz acts perform occasionally at Brel, 39-43 Ashton Lane.

The best bet for folk music is the annual Celtic Connections festival (see Special Events). Throughout the year, The Riverside Club, 33 Fox Street, hosts ceilidh dances at the weekend, drawing an energetic crowd. Molly Malone’s, 224 Hope Street, has live Irish music nightly, ranging from traditional folk to Celtic rock, while Park Bar, 1202 Argyle Street, is a good spot for Highland sounds at the weekend. Scotia Bar and Clutha Vaults, both on Stockwell Street, are great pubs with authentic folk music thrown in for good measure.

City Statistics

Location: West-central Scotland, United Kingdom.
Country dialling code: 44.
Population: 577,670 (city); 1.74 million (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3.5°C (38°F).
Average July temp: 14.5°C (58.5°F).
Annual rainfall: 889mm (35 inches).

Special Events

Celtic Connections, late Jan-early Feb, Glasgow Royal Concert Hall and other venues (website: www.celticconnections.com)
Burns Night, celebration of poet Robert Burns, 25 Jan, various venues
Glasgow International Comedy Festival, mid Mar-early Apr, various venues (website: www.glasgowcomedyfestival.com)
Glasgow Art Fair, mid Apr, art for collectors and visitors
Bearsden and Milngavie Highland Games, Jun, Milngavie
Winter Gardens Prom, Jun, annual promenade concert, People’s Palace
Royal Scottish National Orchestra Proms, Jun, Glasgow Royal Concert Hall
The Lord Provost’s Procession, Jun, various venues
West End Festival, music, theatre, exhibitions and the Midsummer Carnival Parade, Jun, various venues
Glasgow International Jazz Festival, mid Jun, various venues (website: www.jazzfest.co.uk)
World Pipe Band Championships, mid Aug, Glasgow Green
Glasgow Show, Aug, Victoria Park, garden and flower show
Doors Open, Sep, various venues, free entry to buildings usually closed to the public (website: www.gbpt.org/doorsopenday)
Glasgay! Gay and Lesbian Arts Festival, late Oct-early Nov, various venues (website: www.glasgay.co.uk)
Big Big World Festival, mid Oct, world music festival, various venues
Glasgow Fireworks Night, early Nov, firwork display and live bands, Glasgow Green
Glasgow on Ice, open-air skating rink, 1-24 Dec, George Square
Glasgow’s Hogmanay, New Year’s Eve celebrations, 31 Dec, George Square and other venues

Cost of Living

1 British Pound Sterling (£1) = US$1.75; C$2.04; A$2.30; ¬1.47
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005