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City Guide > Caribbean > Cuba > Havana | |
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Mini Guide of Havana City Overview
Cuba is not only the largest island in the Caribbean but also the most diverse scenically and culturally. For over 40 years, the proximity of a Communist state has been a thorn in the side of Uncle Sam. But visitors should leave all Eastern European conceptions of a Communist state behind them. Cuba is positively pulsating with colour and life and nowhere more so than in its lively capital. Even the name Havana, or La Habana to use its Spanish name, evokes images of dusky maidens, cigar smoke, revolution and passion. Today’s Havana may have dropped the revolution fever but the other images and more are still very much alive. Situated on the north coast of the island and built round a natural deep-water harbour, it is easy to see why the city was so much fought over by past generations of colonialists. All have left their mark but none more so than the Spanish. The exquisite architecture of Old Havana is very reminiscent of Seville with its narrow, cobbled streets, shady plazas, grilled windows and grand, if in many places, crumbling buildings. Tantalising glimpses of cool courtyards and wrought iron balconies, where whole families sit to observe the world are round every corner. With the help of UNESCO and money from tourism, many of the unique buildings being restored again to all their former glory. So Havana offers the unusual sight of brightly painted and restored buildings along side those that look as if they would collapse if anybody rang their doorbell. However gradual the improvements, the city fathers have recognised the significance of Old Havana to world heritage and its treasures will not be lost forever as the area comes back to life. As most flights arrive after dark, it can be quite a culture shock to step outside the following next morning and be immediately swept up in a tide of humanity. Big, black, cigar-smoking mammas with Carmen Miranda head-dresses, statuesque models sprayed into their lycra outfits, as well as women of not-so-model-like proportions also sporting-hugging costumes, children in maroon or mustard school uniforms darting from side to side of the street, Chinese bicycle bells constantly ringing as cyclists nip in and out of the traffic, taxis, Ladas and 1950s Chevies all jostling for position on the road – all accompanied by pulsating Cuban rhythms from every window, doorway and balcony. The island’s rich history is no more apparent than in the mix of beats that make up Cuba’s own music and the diversity in the faces of its people. This mix of European, Asian and African peoples has created a race of warm, lively and ingenious people, which has helped them to survive forty years of shortages and deprivations. Cuba nominally gained independence from Spain in 1899 with military aid from the Americans, who from that time on until the 1959 revolution played a dominant role in Cuban politics, economics and industry. Americans flocked to Havana, especially during the period of prohibition in the States, when the city turned into the playground of America with cheap liquor, prostitution and gambling, fancy hotels, nightclubs and a flamboyant lifestyle. However, corruption was rife and the rift between rich and poor was growing ever wider. A group of guerrillas, under the leadership of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara, finally succeeded in overthrowing the dictator Batista in 1959 and the Americans fled, taking much of Cuba’s wealth with them. In 1960, the American government, paranoid at having such a close Communist neighbour, organised a mercenary force to overthrow Castro. However, much to the embarrassment of the Americans, their forces suffered a resounding defeat at the Bay of Pigs (Playa Giron). This was followed by a trade blockade that has been in place ever since and the Cuban people continue to suffer hardships as a result. In spite of his advancing years, Castro still governs and is credited with sweeping improvements in health care and education. The Cuban economy is tentatively expanding, helped by the government, allowing its citizens to hold US Dollars, once illegal. This has created consumer demand and a rapid rise in tourism, which has overtaken sugar as Cuba’s main source of hard currency. The Cubans continue to be optimistic and their infectious smiles will make any visitor feel welcome. Getting There By Air Jose Marti International Airport (HAV) Tel: (7) 649 5777 or (7) 266 4644. Jose Marti International Airport is located about 20km (14 miles) south of the city centre. International flights arrive into terminal three and domestic flights leave from terminal one. Havana handles flights from 19 airlines serving about 30 international destinations, mainly in Central and South America and Europe. Major airlines: Cubana (tel: (7) 334 949 or 950; website: www.cubana.cu) is the national airline with an extensive international and domestic network. Aerocaribbean (tel: (7) 797 524) also has a good domestic network, as well as providing international flights to other Caribbean islands and Central America. Other major airlines include: Aeroflot, Air France, Air Jamaica, Iberia, Lan Chile, Martinair and Mexicana. It is recommended that travellers leaving Cuba get their luggage bubble-wrapped before checking in. This service is available for approximately US$4 and means that it will be immediately obvious if any bag has been tampered before leaving the country (a fairly common occurrence). Approximate flight times to Havana: From London is 10 hours 40 minutes; from New York is 5 hours 5 minutes; from Los Angeles is 5 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 3 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 19 hours 20 minutes. Airport facilities: These include duty-free shops, restaurants, bureaux de change, a tourist information office, a hotel reservation desk and car hire desks (Cubacar and Havanautos). Ground agents Havanatur and Cubanacan, which are local travel agencies for incoming tourists, also have desks here. Business facilities: An executive lounge is provided by the airlines for their passengers. Departure tax: An international tax of US$25 is payable in cash or traveller cheques on departure. Transport to the city: There is currently no bus service from the airport into town. Metered tourist taxis wait outside the arrivals hall for the 30-minute journey into town. The fare is US$18-20. Tour operators arrange minibus transfers with ground agents; these are pre-booked by their own clients, however, it might be possible for an independent traveller to purchase a seat on one of these minibuses from the local agent directly (in US Dollars), if there is space. Getting There By Water Havana’s port in Old Havana is primarily for container ships, as there are no international ferry services due to the blockade. However, a small boat does cross the harbour from Old Havana to the Morro Castle district on a fairly regular basis for a few Pesos. Infotur (tel: (7) 333 333) have a tourist information office at the port, on Calle Obispo, between Calle Bernaza and Calle Villegas. Getting There By Road The road network throughout Cuba is not extensive and is not particularly well maintained, however, given the lack of vehicles on the road it is adequate. Local roads, designated by two or three numbers, tend to be in a bad state of repair, often little more than unnamed tracks. Traffic drives on the right and road signs are similar to those used in Europe. The speed limit in towns is 50kph (31mph), 90kph (55mph) on main roads and 100kph (62mph) on the highway. Speeding offences and minor infringements at intersections are liable to on-the-spot fines. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08% and offenders will be fined heavily. It should be noted that there is no automobile association in Cuba and, although car hire companies generally have an emergency number for breakdowns, motorists often have to rely on locals for assistance. It is advisable to plan routes carefully, checking the location of petrol stations and always ensuring the vehicle is topped up with fuel, as petrol stations may have run out. Emergency breakdown service: None. Routes to the city: The Carretera Central is the one main road in Cuba. It is fairly old but it runs the length of the island from La Fé on the western tip of the island via Havana and then Santa Clara down to Guantánamo in the east. Trinidad is reached by branching off this road before Santa Clara. A virtually deserted highway, the Autopista, runs from Pinar del Rio in the west through Havana and Santa Clara but only as far as Ciego de Avila in the east. A better maintained road, the Via Blanca, links Havana with the main beach resort of Varadero. Driving times to Havana: From Varadero – 2 hours 30 minutes; from Pinar del Rio – 2 hours 45 minutes; from Trinidad – 5 hours; from Santa Clara – 6 hours; from Ciego de Avila – 12 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Long-distance buses are operated by the state company Asociaciones de Transportes por Omnibus (Astro; tel: (7) 703 397). The bus network is extensive and is the most popular method of travel. Buses are almost always full but seats are usually found for US Dollar-paying visitors. Buses depart from the Terminal de Omnibus Interprovinciales, between Avenida Independencia 101 and Calle Ayestaran, and tickets are bought from the Venta de Boletinos located there. Facilities include snack bars and shops. An alternative service aimed at visitors more than locals is operated by Viazul (tel: (7) 811 413 or 815 652 or 811 108; e-mail: viazul@transnet.cu; website: www.viazul.cu). Air-conditioned buses operate on most major routes from Havana to Varadero, Viñales, Trinidad and Santiago de Cuba. The Viazul terminal is out of town, between Avenida 26 and Calle Zoologico, and tickets can be purchased from their office or at tourist desks in hotels. Payment is in US Dollars. Getting There By Rail Cuba is the only Caribbean island with a functioning rail service, which is operated by Ferrocarriles de Cuba. There is no national enquiries number but information can be obtained from the main station in Havana, the Estacion Central, between Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal (tel: (7) 621 920). The station tends to be rather crowded with patient passengers surrounded by large piles of luggage waiting for delayed trains. There is a café in the station to escape the chaos. Rail services: Travelling by train is a great way to meet people but the service is notoriously unreliable with frequent delays and cancellations. The main, and best, route is from Havana to Santiago de Cuba via Matanzas, Santa Clara, Ciego de Avila, Camaguey and Las Tunas. The overnight express service between Havana and Santiago is the fastest, taking a minimum of 15 hours. There are several branch lines from this main line. There are no published timetables so it is imperative to check times well in advance and make a reservation in person at the Ladis ticket office (tel: (7) 621 770) (formerly Ferrotur) by the station, particularly for long journeys. Transport to the city: As few foreign visitors arrive in Havana by train metered taxis at the railway station are scarce, but it is possible to find private ones. Visitors should always agree a price beforehand. Getting Around Public Transport There are two types of buses that operate around town, known as guaguas (‘bus’) and camellos (‘camels’ due to their hump-backed roofs). Both types are overcrowded and have non-existent timetables. Most visitors avoid this form of transport in Havana unless they are familiar with the routes. There is a strict system of queuing and visitors should make sure they are at the end of the queue by asking for ‘el ultimo’ (the last one). The fare, 20 Centavos for camellos and 40 Centavos for guaguas, is payable on board. The service operates around the clock but there are very few buses in the middle of the night. Taxis There are two categories of taxis in Havana: those for the tourists, which charge in US Dollars, and local taxis, which accept Pesos. The official tourist taxis are numerous and comfortable, being air conditioned. Taxis can be flagged down in the street or found waiting outside the main hotels. Rates are about 90 cents per kilometre, and the meter should be turned on at the start of the journey. Visitors should note that there is a premium for cars such as Mercedes. Tipping is now allowed in Cuba and about 10% of the fare is always appreciated for good service. Reputable firms are Habanautos Taxi (tel: (7) 832 3232 or 950 323), Transgaviota (tel: (7) 339 780), Panataxi (tel: (7) 555 555), Turistaxi (tel: (7) 336 666) and Transtur (tel: (7) 553 252 or 338 384; website: www.transturcuba.com). It appears that anybody who owns a car is willing to act as a taxi but these are unofficial and passengers are likely to be overcharged. Other than overcharging, however, there is little danger and since it is often the owners of beautiful old American cars that are the ones offering taxi services, many visitors are keen to take up their offers. Bicitaxis A pleasant way to move around the city is to hire a two-seater bicitaxi, which are similar to Asian rickshaws with the driver pedalling from the front. There is no need to look for them as the drivers solicit tourists continuously, seemingly unable to believe that anybody would choose to walk. In addition, there are the relatively new, but limited in number, bright yellow scooter rickshaws. Rates for both are similar to normal taxis (about 90 cents per kilometre). Limousines Rex (tel: (7) 339 160; fax: (7) 339 159) can provide chauffeur-driven limousines for US$325 per day. The weekly price is US$1625. They also provide luxury chauffeur-driven Audis and Volvos for US$240 and US$220 per day respectively. Driving in the City The volume of traffic in Havana is increasing rapidly and motorists will find that driving in the city can be a nerve-racking experience. The system at traffic lights (when they are working) is different from other countries – a flashing amber light means proceed with caution. It is also permitted to turn right on a red light if the road is clear. Road signage is similar to Europe but often the lettering has completely faded and is impossible to read, particularly at night. The grid system of roads in Havana makes it straightforward to negotiate the city, but the biggest hazard is the large numbers of cyclists and pedestrians meandering along the middle of the road. Night driving is particularly difficult as most cyclists ride without lights, street lighting is limited and there are many unmarked potholes. Parking is relatively straightforward, however, as most hotels have car parks for use by their guests, although there is generally a charge for this facility. There are also few parking restrictions around the city, so this is not a problem. However, at hotels where there is no secured parking, it is worth paying the doorman a small fee to keep an eye on the vehicle if parking overnight. Valuables should be kept out of sight as hire cars have special number plates making it obvious that it is being driven by a tourist. Car Hire The major car hire companies have offices in the city as well as at the airport: Cubacar (tel: (7) 337 233), Havanautos (tel: (7) 817 648). Havanautos has offices at the following hotels: Habana Libre (tel: (7) 333 484); Sevilla (tel: (7) 338 956); Riviera (tel: (7) 333 577); Nacional (tel: (7) 333 192); Micar (tel: (7) 553 535); Veracuba (tel: (7) 555 657); Via (tel: (7) 339 781) and Transtur (tel: (7) 338 384 or 553 991). Renting a car is the easiest option for visiting places outside Havana, given the lack of and unreliability of public transport. However, it is an expensive way to move around Havana itself and most people prefer taxis. The minimum hire period is three days and the average cost for a four-door saloon manual car is US$65 per day on unlimited mileage. Payment can be made by credit card provided that it is not issued by an American bank. Petrol costs about 90 cents per litre and most service stations claim to be open 24 hours but this should not be taken literally. The minimum age for hiring a car is 21 years. An International Driving Permit is not required, a valid national licence is sufficient. The purchase of insurance can only be arranged locally and costs about US$12 per day, although it is possible to opt to pay a large deposit, in lieu of insurance, which is refundable if the car is returned undamaged. It is worth noting that a driver involved in an accident is judged guilty until proved innocent. The car hire companies in Cuba are all local, although car models for hire are Japanese, Korean or French. However, parts all have to be imported, which is a drain on hard currency, so standards are not always what a visitor would expect. Before driving any distance, it is advisable to check for any damage and that all parts, such as windscreen wipers, lights, tyres etc are functioning and in good order. Bicycle and Scooter Hire Some hotels hire bicycles for an average of US$10 per day and this is a convenient way to get around, although not recommended after dark. Again, bicycles for hire are imported and are not always well maintained. The state of the streets is also not good – with potholes causing problems, especially at night. Mopeds can be rented in the beach resorts but are strictly for use in the vicinity. Business Business Profile Until the 1980s, all business was controlled centrally by the state, with everybody working for the government and with guaranteed employment for all. Throughout the 1980s, foreign companies were allowed to set up joint ventures with the government and, in 1995, international organisations were invited to establish 100% foreign-owned businesses in Cuba. However, due to many companies not wishing to upset their American trading partners, there have been few serious ventures – with the exception of the tourism industry. The collapse of the Soviet Union hit Cuba hard as it lost its biggest trading partner and austerity measures were brought in for five years from 1990 under the Periodo Especial. The state was forced to lay off workers to avoid financial collapse and had to allow its citizens to become self-employed. Fearful of encouraging Capitalism, the government imposed high taxes on these budding entrepreneurs and forbade them to take on employees. Recently, these restrictions have been relaxed and there is now a proliferation of paladares (family restaurants) and casas particulares (guest-houses). Since unemployment does not officially exist there are no figures available. Cuba’s main exports are sugar, nickel, tobacco, shellfish, medical products and coffee. All industries are still state controlled but many now have foreign investment as well. Canadian mining companies have set up joint ventures to develop the potential of a country rich in mineral ores, in particular nickel. Sugar, one of Cuba’s largest exports, suffered severe problems in the early 1990s when production sharply declined because companies were unable to obtain fertiliser and herbicides or fuel to run their machinery. The industry has still not recovered to its former high production levels, although more areas have now been planted to try to increase the output of production and Cuba has invested heavily in organic farming. Tourism has become Cuba’s biggest success story, bringing in millions of Dollars worth of hard currency each year. The tourist industry has seen a steady increase of about 10% a year over the last decade, with even greater increases predicted as more foreign companies and more airlines invest in the island. As with other industries, tourism is still state controlled but many hotels are run on a joint-venture basis. Facilities, services and prices tend to be higher in these properties. The worst year for Cuba in recent times was when the GDP declined to 0.7% in 1994 but successive years have seen a steady increase and there is now a real sense of optimism. Business Etiquette The international business community is beginning to realise the potential of the Cuban market and there have been several successful trade fairs over the last few years. Isolationist in the past, the Cuban government is now receptive to new opportunities. However, work practices can still be stuck in the Communist mind frame, where there is rarely anybody prepared to take the initiative or to make decisions. This is further aggravated by the Cuban attitude of leaving everything to mañana (tomorrow). Initial approaches from international businesses are usually met with great optimism and indications that anything is possible, but this is followed by total inactivity once the visitors have returned to their home country. Another problem is the notoriously lax timekeeping – Cubans can turn up hours late for a meeting without a hint of an apology. Dress is rarely formal and most Cuban businessmen wear the traditional guayabera shirt to meetings. On the other hand, businesswomen can be very smart. Visitors tend not to be invited to lunch or dinner but rum often flows at a meeting. Offices are generally open 0830-1230 and 1330-1630 with some Saturday opening. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Old Havana (La Habana Vieja) is best explored on foot to take full advantage of the glorious Spanish colonial architecture, much of it under restoration. Visitors can easily occupy many an hour meandering through the narrow streets and around the shady plazas. There will always be something happening to catch the eye and, thankfully, there are many more refreshment facilities in which to linger and watch the colourful pageant. Museum-lovers will be spoilt for choice as more and more open each year, many in wonderful old buildings. While Old Havana holds many charms for the visitor, it would be a pity to neglect other areas of the city, such as Vedado, or New Havana, the former centre of gambling and good living. La Rampa, Vedado’s main street runs from the Habana Libre, a hotel built as the flagship of the Hilton chain just before the Revolution and then used by Castro as his headquarters, down to the Malecon. On either side of La Rampa are many fine examples of Art Deco and 1950s architecture, not least the imposing Hotel Nacional. To the west of the city is the former upmarket district of Miramar, with its grand mansions giving evidence of a bygone age of prosperity. Many are now being restored as offices for joint-venture companies and embassies. A good overview of the city can be enjoyed from the observatory at the top of the Jose Marti Memorial in Revolution Square. A stroll along the Malecon, the seafront walk, which stretches almost the length of Havana, is a must. Here, old and young fish during the day and courting couples take their paseo (promenade) at night. The Malecon also provides a wonderful view of Havana’s cityscape, especially at sunrise or sunset. Tourist Information Infotur Calle Obispo 358, at Calle San Ignacio Tel: (7) 636 884 or 333 333. E-mail: webmaster@ofitur.mit.tur.cu Website: www.infotur.cu Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730. Passes There are no tourist passes available in Havana. Key Attractions Plaza de Armas (Arms Square) An excellent place to start a tour of Havana is Old Havana (La Habana Vieja) – and where better to begin than the place where the city is said to have been founded. A small chapel, El Templete, with an interesting fresco by the French artist Jean Baptiste Vermay, was built in 1828 to mark the spot. In front of the chapel is a ceiba tree, similar to the one under which the first mass in Cuba is said to have been held. From here, it is a natural progression to Plaza de Armas, dominated by the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum), which occupies the magnificent old Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, once home of the highest colonial authority in Cuba and a former Presidential Palace. This popular museum gives an overview of the history of Havana from its founding until the present day. The oldest building in this square is actually just to the side – the impressive Castillo de le Real Fuerza, a 16th-century colonial fortress surrounded by a moat, today home to the Museo de la Ceramica Artistica. For visitors wishing to deviate from a cultural tour, the nearby market is the best place in Havana for local arts and crafts. El Templete Corner of Calle Baratillo, between Calle O’Reilly and Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja Opening hours: US$1. Museo de la Ciudad Calle Tacon 1, between Calle Obispo and O’Reilly, Plaza de Armas Tel: (7) 612 876. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1830. Admission: US$3. Museo de la Ceramica Artistica Castillo de la Real Fuerza, Corner of Calle O’Reilly and Avenida del Puerto Tel: (7) 616 130. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission: US$1. Plaza de la Catedral (Cathedral Square) Plaza de la Catedral is one of the most authentic and best-preserved squares in Havana, with the cathedral and surrounding buildings almost all restored to their original splendour. The Catedral de San Cristobal de la Habana is an 18th-century Baroque building occupying the north side of the square. On the opposite side is the oldest building, which dates from 1720, the Museo de Arte Colonial, an architectural masterpiece that is built around a central courtyard containing tropical plants, which is complemented by the collection of colonial furniture gathered from Havana’s palaces and mansions. Other sophisticated buildings line this square and now house cafés, restaurants and an impressive post office. Catedral de San Cristobal de la Habana Plaza de la Catedral Opening hours: Officially open every day but often firmly locked. Admission: Free. Museo de Arte Colonial Calle San Ignacio 61, Plaza de la Catedral Tel: (7) 626 440. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1900. Admission: US$2. Hemingway’s Havana No visit to Havana would be complete without paying homage to one of its most famous residents, Ernest Hemingway. On a stroll between Plaza de Armas and Plaza de la Catedral, it is worthwhile stopping at Hotel Ambos Mundos, a stylish 1920s building, which played host to Ernest Hemingway during much of the 1930s. In room 511, he began to write For Whom The Bell Tolls. While the rest of the hotel has been restored, Hemingway’s room has preserved pretty much as it was when Hemingway was a guest – and is now open as a museum. But to pay true homage to Hemingway, do as he did and start the evening with a mojito, a delicious blend of rum and mint, in La Bodeguita del Medio, Calle Empedrado 207, and continue with another of his favourite tipples, a daiquiri, in El Floridita, Calle Obispo 557. Hotel Ambos Mundos Calle Obispo 153, corner of Calle Mercederes, Habana Vieja Tel: (7) 609 530. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700. Admission: US$2. Museo de la Revolucion y Memorial Granma (Museum of the Revolution and Granma Memorial) The 1950s dictator Batista – like all dictators – had to try and impress the populace with a grand presidential palace. So it is ironic that this glorious palace, which he hardly had time to enjoy, now houses the Museum of the Revolution, a vivid exhibition displaying the struggle of the Cuban people to gain sovereignty over their own island. Exhibits include photographs, cinefilm, clothing, original documents and weapons. In the garden is the Granma Memorial – the boat Granma in which Fidel Castro and over 80 foolhardy combatants returned to Cuba from exile in Mexico in 1956. Also scattered around the garden are various vehicles used in the struggle. Calle Refugio 1, between Calle Monserrate and Calle Zulueta, Habana Vieja Tel: (7) 624 091 or 624 096. Opening hours: Tues 1000-1800, Wed-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: US$5. Further Distractions Parque Historico Militar Morro-Cabaña (Historical and Military Park) Built by the Spanish in the 16th century, this military fort at the entrance to the harbour offered Havana protection from enemy ships and pirates. The fort contains a collection of old weapons including a huge catapult. Every evening at 2100 a cannon is fired across the bay. Carretera de la Cabaña, Habana del Este Tel: (7) 620 617 or 620 619. Opening hours: Daily 0800-2200. Admission: US$3. Cigar Factories A visit to Havana would not be complete without a tour of a cigar factory and the Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas is one of the oldest. The cigars are still rolled by hand and to this day there is a tradition of someone being employed to read to the workers while they work. Equally famous, the Real Fabrica de Tabacos La Coruna was founded in 1842 and also follows traditional methods in its production of cigars or puros. Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas Calle Industria 520, Centro Habana Opening hours: Tours Mon-Fri at 1000 and 1400. Admission: US$10. Real Fabrica de Tabacos La Coruna Calle Zulueta 106, between Calle Refugio and Calle Colon, Centro Habana Opening hours: Tours Mon-Fri at 1030 and 1330. Admission: US$10. Tours of the City Walking Tours Old Havana is largely traffic free and ideal for walking tours. Hotel tourist desks can arrange half- or full-day tours exploring the squares and visiting some of the museums now housed in many of the splendid old colonial buildings in the area. Usually, the tour will end in the Palacio de Artesania, Calle Cuba 64, corner of Calle Tacon, a palace converted into a gallery of craft shops. Bus Tours Havana city tours operate every day, subject to a minimum number of people, and clients are collected from their hotels. Private tours can also be arranged locally with English-speaking guides from a ground agent, such as Havanatour (tel: (7) 203 9782-85; e-mail: ralcala@cimex.com.cu) or Cubanacan (tel: (7) 204 6934 or 9152 or 2976; website: www.cubanacan.cu). A sporadic tourist bus service, operated by Vaiven (tel: (7) 243 688) takes a circular route around the city, stopping at major sights. A pass costing US$5 allows a hop-on hop-off service all day 0900-2200. The service is not particularly well advertised but information can be found at one of the hotels on its route, such as the Hotel Riviera or Hotel Deauville. Excursions For a Half Day Finca La Vigia: While in Cuba, Hemingway usually stayed at this rented farmhouse some 15km (nine miles) east of Havana close to the village of San Francisco de Paula. Peeping in the windows it is hard not to think that this enthusiastic hunter, fisher and writer has just popped out because the house and its contents are preserved exactly as he left them. Finca La Vigia (tel: (7) 332 047 or 910 809) is open Monday to Saturday 0900-1600 and Sunday 0900-1230 and admission costs US$3. Close by is the village and small harbour of Cojimar, founded in the 17th century and captured by the British in 1762. Here, Hemingway kept his boat, El Pilar, and it is thought that the sleepy fishing village inspired his book, The Old Man and the Sea. The hotel tourist desks can arrange Hemingway Trail tours by minibus but Finca La Vigia is only about 20 minutes from Havana by car. East Havana beaches (Playas del Este): Just 25 minutes from Havana, the Playas del Este stretch along the north coast from Bacuranao (18km/11 miles east of Havana), to Guanabo (27km/17 miles east of the city). The entire stretch of this long coastline consists of fine, white sandy beaches. Visitors should note, however, that except in the tourist hotels, the area has very few facilities – other than glorious beach – and is usually absolutely packed with Cubans escaping the city, especially at the weekend. For a Whole Day Viñales Valley: The scenery in the Viñales Valley is very dramatic with mogotes (limestone hills) rising up from the lush green valley floor, reminiscent of the Guilin area of Chinese painting. This fertile province is where the best tobacco is cultivated and most tours (during the week) include a visit to one of the local cigar factories. Alternatively, the Guayabita del Pinar Liquor Factory, which produces a liqueur exclusive to the region, can be visited and bottles purchased. Lunch is normally taken outdoors besides a pre-historic mural depicting man’s evolution, before taking a boat trip on the subterranean San Vicente River, which passes through the El Indio Cave System. All tours also stop by the hotel Los Jazmines for a breathtaking view of the Vinales Valley. Tours by minibus can be arranged at hotel tourist desks. Varadero: For those who need reminding that they are on a Caribbean island, a trip to Varadero, Cuba’s premier beach resort, is a must. Probably the island’s best-maintained road leads from Havana along the north coast to Varadero, situated on a 16km-long (12-mile) isthmus that reaches out into the Atlantic. It only takes two and a half hours from Havana to reach powder soft sand and turquoise, warm sea. There is also no shortage of facilities for refreshments, entertainment and watersports. A daily tourist bus goes from Havana to Varadero –the hotel tourist desks can provide more information. Sport Baseball is as popular in Cuba as in America and every piece of wasteland is turned into an improvised pitch. The national team has won many international championships, including the World Championship, often against its arch rival, the USA. The National Baseball Series features teams from each province and is played between October and March. Games take place on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday evenings, as well as Saturday and Sunday afternoons. In Havana, matches are held at the Estadio Latinoamericano, Habana del Este (tel: (7) 706 526). Tickets can only be purchased at the venue on the day. Cuba is not renowned for its performance internationally in football but it is followed locally and the local team – Cuidad de le Habana – play at the Estadio Pedro Marrero, Playa, every Wednesday and Sunday. Boxing is another popular spectator sport and fights are often held on Friday evenings at Kid Chocolate on Paseo de Marti, opposite the Capitolio and next to the Payret Cinema. Other popular sports are volleyball and basketball, which can be seen at Sala Polivalente Ramon Fonst on Avenida Independencia, Vedado, opposite the main bus station. Fishing: Fishing is a favourite sport in Cuba – enjoyed as it is by Castro, as well as Hemingway of course. Small boats can be rented privately from Marina Hemingway, west of Havana, for about US$25 per day or through one of the hotels there. Deep-sea fishing is very popular in Cuba for tourists and trips can be booked from hotel tourist desks. Golf: About 30 minutes from Havana is the nine-hole Club de Golf de la Habana, Carretera de Vento, Capdevila, Boyeros (tel: (7) 333 918), which also has tennis courts and a swimming pool. Green and caddy fees are about US$50. Other golf courses of international standard are opening up in all the resort areas – the nearest to Havana being at Varadero. Leisure centres: Many of the centres throughout the city are attached to hotels and are for hotel residents and members only. The Gimnasio Integral, between Calle 17 and Calle E, Vedado (tel: (7) 329 087), is well equipped and has a minimal registration fee. Swimming: Many of the large hotels in Havana, particularly the joint-venture, modern ones, have pools that can be used by non-residents for a fee. Tennis: Public courts are available at Complejo Deportivos – Canchas de Tennis, Avenida Monumental Km 4.5, Villa Panamericana (tel: (7) 951 561). Shopping Although improving with the arrival of craft markets, Cuba is not the best place for shopping, with the exception, of course, of the much sought after cigars and the very acceptable rum (the Bacardi family originated from Cuba). All tourist hotels have at least one souvenir shop, where prices are in US Dollars. Similar souvenir shops have sprung up in the last few years in Old Havana. Again, payment is in US Dollars and visitors should note that credit cards, except American Express and other American cards, are accepted. Shopping malls have now arrived in Havana and the modern Tiendas Carlos Tercero, Avenida Salvador Allende, is stuffed with clothes, shoes and beauty products. For designer items, as well as a fashion show, La Maison, Calle 16 701, in Miramar, is the place to go. It sells designer clothes, jewellery and cosmetics. Cuba will be forever associated with cigars. Long acknowledged as producing the best in the world, Havana cigars are expensive internationally but much cheaper on home soil. Good-quality cigars can be bought at Casa del Tabaco, Calle Oficios 53, or at the factory Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas, Calle Industria 520. Local rum and Cuban coffee are also good buys and travel well. Of course, many visitors to the island want to take home a reminder of Cuban rhythms and there is no shortage of CDs and cassettes in all tourist shops. Other common souvenirs include musical instruments, traditional dolls and pâpier-maché items, as well as Che Guevara t-shirts, which are popular again. Local crafts and jewellery are also popular. Cubans use coconut fibre, seashells and seeds in the manufacture of many local handicrafts. Visitors should avoid buying jewellery made from tortoiseshell or black coral as both are protected and it is often illegal to import them to one’s home country (for example, the UK). Markets are now legal and the two main ones are one near the Plaza de Armas and one smaller market on the Malecon, near the Riviera Hotel. The markets open daily and haggling is expected. Shops should be open 0900-1900 including Sundays, although this may not always be the case. Culture Such a rich mixture of races has produced a truly amazing variety of artistic genres, particularly in the field of popular music. Cubans, by nature, are passionate people and no more so than when it comes to their music. Trova, from the Spanish for troubadour, is ballad-style singing to the accompaniment of a guitar. Most towns have at least one Casa de la Trova, where anybody of any age who can play a musical instrument can happily while away the evening with an impromptu jam session. Guajira is country-style music and the most famous song in this genre is the ubiquitous Guantanamera. Above all salsa, with its mesmerising rhythms, has taken the world by storm. Cuba has become internationally renowned for other well-known rhythms, such as the rhumba, a combination of Afro-Cuban music for voice and percussion, which is now accompanied by a passionate dance. The cha-cha-cha, originally popularised between the 1930s and 50s, is still popular. The state is keen to encourage all aspects of the arts and most towns have at least one theatre and a cinema. Standards are high and Cuban performers have achieved international fame. Details of performances can be found in the city listings magazine, Cartelera. Music: Groups such as Los Van Van and The Buena Vista Social Club have long been established in Cuba, but now their reputation has spread worldwide and both frequently tour in the West. They perform regularly in different venues around the city, such as El Palacio de la Salsa in the Hotel Riviera, between Paseo and Malecon (tel: (7) 334 051). Classical music is performed by the National Symphony Orchestra, who regularly appear at the Teatro Nacional, between Paseo and Calle 39 (tel: (7) 796 011). Theatre: The standard of theatre in Havana is, perhaps surprisingly, high. There are regular performances of local, modern plays and international classics. The most professional performances are at the Gran Teatro (tel: (7) 629 473), corner of Paseo del Prado and Calle San Rafael, Centro Habana, and the Teatro Nacional (see Music above). Dance: The National Ballet of Cuba has gained international fame thanks in part to its founder Alicia Alonso. Cuban ballet has also been greatly influenced by the years of close association with the famous Russian ballet schools of the Bolshoi and Marinsky theatres. Ballet performances take place at the Gran Teatro (see above). Every night the Palacio de la Salsa in the Hotel Riviera (see Music above) pulsates to the sound of salsa with some exciting performances by local bands. Film: Cinema is huge in Cuba, although homegrown films are few and most cinemas show dubbed or subtitled foreign movies. Many major international films do reach Havana but generally a couple of years after they have been released abroad. Havana can boast dozens of cinemas, including: Payret, opposite the Capotilio on Paseo de Marti; Yara, opposite the Habana Libre Hotel, Calle 23, and Charles Chaplin, Calle 23 between Calles 10 and 12. The internationally acclaimed Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate), directed by Tomas Gutierrez Alea, and set near the Coppelia ice cream parlour in Havana, was nominated for an Oscar for best foreign film in 1994. Buena Vista Social Club (1999), directed by Wim Wenders, is a documentary that chronicles the collaboration of Ry Cooder with these legendary Cuban musicians, all now aged between 70 and 90 years. Cultural events: August brings the enormous street party of the Habana Carnaval every year. Biennially, May brings the International Guitar Festival and September the International Theatre Festival. Every October, many of the world’s best dancers travel to Havana for the annual Havana International Ballet Festival. The annual film festival in December, Festival del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano, features the latest films from Latin America, as well as some international art films. There is a biennial International Jazz Festival, in December for 2002, but it is a much smaller event than when the late, great Ronnie Scott was involved. Literary Notes The romance of Havana has made it an attractive setting for many works of fiction by both Cuban and international writers. The most famous book featuring Havana as a backdrop has to be Graham Greene’s classic 1958 novel, Our Man in Havana. A vacuum cleaner salesman in Havana joins the British secret service, but sends in bogus reports and photographs of vacuum parts as supposed secret weapons and recruits imaginary agents. His description of the Tropicana is familiar to visitors today: ‘Stage and dance-floor were open to the sky. Chorus-girls paraded twenty feet up among the great palm-trees, while pink and mauve searchlights swept the floor. A man in bright blue evening clothes sang in Anglo-American about Paree. Then the piano was wheeled away into the undergrowth, and the dancers stepped down like awkward birds from among the branches.’ Ernest Hemingway’s 1952 novel, The Old Man and the Sea, won him the Nobel Prize for Literature for his simple tale of an old Cuban fisherman’s fight with a big fish. The prolific contemporary writer, James Michener, co-wrote a book with photographer John Kings in 1989 called Six Days in Havana. Their impressions of Castro’s Cuba gave a unique insight into the country and its people. Modern Cuba is depicted in Pico Iyer’s Cuba and the Night (1995), an in-depth, rather cynical, description of a Cuban woman’s relationship with an ex-pat. Cristina Garcia’s moving novel Dreaming in Cuban (1992) explores a family divided by the revolution, looking from both sides – the exiles in America and those who stayed behind in Cuba. Nightlife Havana nightlife is thriving and the choice of venues is endless. Although some bars are open only to locals, you do not need to be indoors to sample great live music. Cubans know how to party and every street can turn into a live concert. The social scene starts to liven up about 2200 and, as there are no official licensing hours, clubs and bars tend to close when the last customer leaves, normally between 0200 and 0300. The free entertainment paper, Cartelera, which comes out every Thursday, has a list of what’s on around the city, including any gigs for famous bands, such as the Buena Vista Social Club or Los Van Van. The paper can normally be found at hotel reception desks or from their office at Calle 15 602, on the corner of Calle C in the Vedado district. Generally, Cubans expect to dress up when going out and most clubs have a rule of no shorts, T-shirts or jeans. Many clubs charge an entrance fee and this can be anything from US$1 to US$10 and more. Bars: Two of Havana’s bars are a must on any visit to the city. La Bodeguita del Medio, Calle Empedrado 207, in Old Havana, was popular with many famous personalities in the 1950s, such as Ernest Hemingway and Errol Flynn. The walls are covered with their autographs. Nobody should visit this bar without trying its legendary cocktail, El Mojito (rum and mint). Then, wander up the street to La Floridita, Calle Obispo 557, another one of Hemingway’s favourite bars, for a daiquiri. If you want a cheaper – but just as authentic – version the same cocktail, try the bar Montserrate, between Avenida de Belgica and Calle Obrapia. Cuba’s best bands often play here. Packed, cheap and in heart of Old Havana, Café O’Reilly, Calle O’Reilly 203, between Calle Cuba and Calle San Ignacio, is a two-storey bar where live bands usually play nightly on the second floor. Casinos: These are illegal in Cuba. Clubs: Young Cubans, in spite of the blockade, are well up on the latest trends in the music scene. La Red, Calle 19, between Calle K and Calle L, in Vedado, is the place to hear the latest beats, but more traditional music is also played here by some of the Cuba’s finest musicians. Below the Teatro Nacional, between Paseo and Calle 39, is Café Cantante Mi Habana, a disco popular with the young trendies of Havana as well as a salsa club. Habana Cafe in the Hotel Melia Cohiba, Paseo, between Calles 1 and 3, has now established itself as the place to be seen in town. Live music: For real 1950s retro style, a visit to the world-famous open-air Tropicana, between Linea del Ferrocarril and Calle 72, in Marianao, will not disappoint. This nightly extravaganza features scantily dressed dancers in sequins and feathers with outrageous head-dresses. Tickets do not come cheap, on average about US$60, depending on the location of your seat. They are best booked through the hotel tourist desk, which ensures transport from and to your hotel. Caberet Salon Rojo, Hotel Capri, Calle 21, between Calle N and Calle O, in Vedado, is another throwback to the days of the mob but – being less expensive than the Tropicana – you are more likely to mix with the locals. Let your hair down and join them on the stage-cum-dance floor until the early hours. Cuba’s best salsa bands regularly perform at El Palacio de la Salsa in the Riviera Hotel, between Paseo and Malecon, but advance booking is advised for this popular venue. Jazz Club La Zorra y el Cuervo, Calle 23, between Calle N and Calle O, in Vedado, is another good venue to hear nightly jamming sessions by well-known jazz musicians. City Statistics Location: Havana Province, Cuba. Country dialling code: 53. Population: 2.2 million. Ethnic mix: 66% white, 22% mulatto and 12% black. Religion: 40% Roman Catholic with the remainder being a mix of Protestants, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Jews and followers of the African-based Santeria. Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from first Sunday in April to Saturday before second Sunday in October). Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs. Average January temp: 22°C (73°F). Average July temp: 28°C (85°F). Annual rainfall: 150mm (6 inches). Special Events Cuballet de Invierno, Annual winter ballet festival, 7 Jan-4 Feb 2003, Pro Danza Centre Cubadanza, winter festival of Cuban dance, 8-19 Jan, Contemporary Dance Company Folkcuba, winter folk music festival, 8-20 Jan, National Folkloric Group 7th Classical Car Event, 1-15 Mar, throughout the city Havana International Guitar Festival, 12-19 May, various venues throughout the city Folkcuba, summer folk music festival, early Jul, National Folkloric Group Carnaval de la Habana (Havana Carnival), huge street party, mid-Jul-mid-Aug, throughout the city Cuballet de Verano, annual summer ballet festival, Jul-Aug, Pro Danza Centre Cubadanza, summer festival of Cuban dance, Aug, Contemporary Dance Company Havana Festival of Contemporary Music, early Oct, UNEAC and other venues throughout the city Meeting of Latin American and Caribbean Music, mid-Oct, Casa de Las Americas Havana International Ballet Festival, late Oct, Gran Teatro Festival del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano (Festival of New Latin American Cinema), popular international film festival, early Dec, various cinemas throughout the city International Jazz Festival, best of Cuban and international jazz musicians, mid-Dec, Casa de la Cultural de Plaza and various other venues throughout the city Cost of Living As of 8 November 2004, US Dollars are no longer accepted in Cuba, and visitors will be charged 10% commission on exchanging them. Traveller's cheques and/or credit cards drawn on American banks are also not accepted. But Euro or Sterling Traveller's cheques drawn on UK banks are accepted at Cuban banks and Bureaux de Change. 10 Cuban Peso (CUP10) = £0.23; US$0.41; C$0.48; A$0.54; ¬0.34 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |
