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City Guide > Europe > Finland > Helsinki | |
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Mini Guide of Helsinki City Overview
If the shape of Finland resembles a long-skirted woman with her right arm punching the air, then Helsinki is her right foot. Affectionately known as the ‘Daughter of the Baltic’, the city sits at the arrowhead of a peninsula, surrounded by an archipelago of 315 islands, perfectly placed between its two great trading cousins, Stockholm and Moscow. The city’s population just teeters over half a million and with its tallest city centre building only 12 storeys high, Helsinki seems almost provincial. However, statistics reveal that the city is one of the fastest growing areas in the European Union. Within the last decade, 100,000 inhabitants have moved into greater Helsinki and by the year 2030, government statistics predict over 1.3 million people will be living within the region. In a European perspective, Helsinki is relatively young (450 years), yet it is Finland’s sixth oldest town. The Swedes, who extended their empire into Finland in 1155, founded the city of ‘Helsingfors’ (the name still used by the Swedes) in 1550, when King Gustav Vasa needed a site for a strategic and competitively placed trading port. It languished as a coastal backwater until Imperialist Russia invaded in 1809. The Grand Duchy required a new power base and Helsinki was chosen because of its major trump card, the massive sea fortress (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) of Suomenlinna. Modern Helsinki was born when Finland gained independence from Russia in 1917. The new republic boomed throughout the 1920s and 30s, when the architectural movements of the era (Modernism and Functionalism) were fathered by one of Finland’s most famous sons, internationally acclaimed architect Alvar Aalto. Helsinki stepped on to the world stage when the Olympic Stadium was completed in 1938, although the games were postponed due to the war and were finally held there in 1952. It still holds the record as the smallest city in the world to host the Olympic Games. Finland became a member of the European Union in 1995, securing Helsinki’s ties with Europe. The city’s distinctive ‘East meets West’ culture is symbolised in the contrast between the cool, clean lines of Finlandia Hall and the rich golden ‘onion’ dome of Uspenski Cathedral. The centre of the city, the Neo-Classical mini-St Petersburg built by German-born architect Carl Engel, is easily explored on foot and most of the main sights are within walking distance of the centre. The pace of Helsinki life varies with the seasons. In the summer, when average temperatures climb to 18°C (64°F) and above, the whole city comes alive. The bars overflow onto the streets and throughout July and August, the Finns revel in 20-hour-long summer days. Temperatures can sometimes reach 28°C (82°F), a climatic oddity that has been attributed to global warming. In winter, they plummet to an average of - 5°C (23°F) and the city goes underground, becoming a creative hive of productivity. These long, dark nights have led Helsinkiläiset (Helsinkians) to be one of the world’s most ‘connected’ people on the planet; one in 10 use the Internet daily. Perhaps it is the balance between these two climatic extremes that conspires to make Helsinki one of Europe’s most creative and technologically progressive capitals. Getting There By Air Helsinki-Vantaa International Airport (HEL) Tel: (0200) 14636 (cost ¬0.57 per minute, plus local net charge). Website: www.ilmailulaitos.fi/airport_helsinki-vantaa The airport, with two linked terminals for national and international traffic, is located at Vantaa, 20km (12 miles) from the city centre. Helsinki is served by direct flights from many major European cities. There is a daily service from New York and direct flights from Boston (in North America), and from Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Osaka and Tokyo (in Asia). Major airlines: The national airline is Finnair (tel: (09) 600 8100 or 818 800, 24-hour automated telephone service in English; website: www.finnair.com). Over 25 other airlines fly into Helsinki, including British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Air France, Iberia, KLM, Lufthansa and SAS. Approximate flight times to Helsinki: From London is 2 hours 55 minutes; from New York is 7 hours; from Los Angeles is 16 hours; from Toronto is 8 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 27 hours 30 minutes. Airport facilities: These include duty-free shops and boutiques, restaurants, bars, R-kioski (newsagents), bureaux de change, a bank, automatic exchange machine, ATMs, travel agencies, tourist information and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt. A new Hilton hotel is due to open close to the terminal in September 2007. Business facilities: There is a VIP lounge with fax and telephone facilities and a cafeteria, as well as meeting rooms, seating up to eight people, in the international terminal and a conference room, seating up to 30 people, in the domestic terminal. These are available for hire (tel: (09) 8277 3117). The Helsinki Airport Congress Centre (tel: (09) 818 3737), has rooms and halls that are able to hold up to 140, all with AV equipment and Internet connections. Transport to the city: Buses no. 415, 451 and 615 (see Getting Around) go to Rautatientori (Railway Square) every 20-30 minutes (journey time – approximately 35 minutes). A Finnair bus (tel: (09) 4157 5100) stops at the Scandic Continental and Radisson SAS Hesperia (a joint stop), terminating at the railway station. Buses run to meet all flights. Standard taxis charge about ¬30, while shared taxis, operated by Yellow Line (tel: 0600 555 555; website: www.airporttaxi.fi) cost ¬17 one-way, ¬33 return (journey time – 30-50 minutes). Getting There By Water Getting There By Road Each major road has a number: national highways are numbered with one or two digits, running from east to west. Designated European routes bear a prefix ‘E’. The speed limit is 80-120kph (40-75mph) on motorways, dropping to 100kph in winter (60mph) and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Traffic drives on the right and overtakes on the left. It should be noted that cars entering a junction from the right always have right of way, even when the car is on a minor road. Seatbelts are compulsory for all passengers in the front of the car and children under the age of 12 years must travel in the back. All motor vehicles must have headlights on at all times. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%. The legal driving age in Finland is 18 years. An EU driving licence or an International Driving Permit are required. EU nationals taking cars to Helsinki are advised to obtain a Green Card. All drivers must be fully insured and accidents must be reported promptly to Liikennevakuutuskeskus, the Finnish Motor Insurance Centre, Bulevardi 28 (tel: (09) 680 401; website: www.vakes.fi/lvk/english). Mobile phones cannot be used by drivers without hands-free kits. Additional information is available from Autoliitto – Automobile and Touring Club of Finland, fourth floor, Hämeentie 105A (tel: (09) 7258 4400; website: www.autoliitto.fi), which also runs Tiepalvelu (see below). Emergency breakdown service: Tiepalvelu (09) 8502 0708 Routes to the city: The main road to Helsinki from Turku (the ‘gateway to Sweden’) is the E18. Vaasa is connected to Helsinki by the E12. Rovaniemi in the north is on the E75. Approximate driving times to Helsinki: From Turku – 2 hours 15 minutes; Vaasa – 4 hours 30 minutes; Rovaniemi – 11 hours; St Petersburg – 5 hours. Coach services: The main provider of coaches in Finland is Oy Matkahuolto Ab (tel: (09) 682 701; website: www.matkahuolto.fi), which handles all long-distance and express bus travel. International coach options include destinations in Sweden, Norway, Russia and the Baltic countries. Private companies handle regular local bus services. There is a national timetable service (tel: (0200) 4000, at ¬1.64 per call plus local net charge), operating Monday-Saturday 0700-2100 and Sunday 0800-2100. Coaches arrive at and depart from Helsinki Bus Station, between Salomonkatu and Simonkatu, which has a café and an ATM. Getting There By Rail Valtion Rautatiet – VR (tel: (09) 231 99 902 or 0600 41902 from within Finland; website: www.vr.fi/heo/eng) is the main passenger rail service provider. Trains in Finland tend to be clean and efficient. Services depart from Rautatientori (Railway Square), located on Kaivokatu, off Mannerheimintie. ATMs, exchange facilities, newsagents, a car hire office and hotel booking centre are all available at the station. Rail services: Three main lines arrive from Turku in the west, Tampere in the north and Lahti in the northeast, through which trains from St Petersburg and Moscow pass. There are three daily direct train services to and from Russia. The Finnish morning train, Sibelius, to St Petersburg (journey time – approximately 6.5 hours) departs Helsinki at 0742 (leaving St Petersburg for the return journey at 1632). The Russian afternoon train, Repin, to St Petersburg (journey time – approximately 6.5 hours) leaves at 1642 (return departure 0732), while Tolstoi, the Russian-operated night train to Moscow departs early evening (journey time - approximately 15 hours, return departure 2250). It is possible for travellers to continue on to Berlin on the Repin. Transport to the city: The railway station is centrally located and is linked to the Helsinki metro system by a pedestrian tunnel. Getting Around Public Transport Helsingin Kaupungin Liikennelaitos – HKL (tel: (09) 010 0111 (¬0.41 per call); website: www.hel.fi/hkl) operates the metro, local trams, buses and the ferry to Suomenlinna. Buses and trams run 0545-2400, while the metro operates 0600-2400. A ticket for a single journey on the metro, buses and ferries costs ¬2 if purchased on board or ¬1.40 if purchased in advance. Tickets for trams are cheaper at ¬1.80 (on board) or ¬1.50 (pre-purchased). Transfers are allowed for single and multi-trip tickets within one hour of the time stamped on the ticket upon initial boarding. Tickets are available for purchase from newsagents (R-kioskis), metro stations, the City of Helsinki Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) and the post office. A penalty fare is payable for travel without a valid ticket. The HKL Tourist Ticket allows for unlimited travel on all buses, trams, metro and local trains within Helsinki. A one-day ticket costs ¬5.40, a three-day ticket costs ¬10.80 and a five-day ticket costs ¬16.20. Taxis Most taxis are Mercedes vehicles, and can be hailed on the street or booked by telephone. Vehicles in the city are operated by Helsinki Taxi Centre (tel: (09) 700 700 or (0100) 0700). A taxi is available for hire if the yellow ‘TAXI’ dome is lit. As a general rule, tipping is not expected. A journey around town will cost about ¬30. Driving in the City As the public transport system is excellent and most of central Helsinki is accessible on foot, it is not necessary for one to take a car into Helsinki city centre. Visitors that do drive should be aware that Helsinki rush hours are from about 0730-0900 and 1700-1800. The city is divided into three parking zones, of which Zone I (I-vyöhyke) is the most central and accordingly the most costly. Parking is reasonably expensive – meters cost from ¬0.50 to ¬3 per hour and parking spaces cost as much as ¬3 per hour and upwards. With a few exceptions, parking is free after 1800. Parking meters take ordinary coins or parking cards, which can be purchased in advance from R-kioski (newsagents) and service stations. The major car parks are located at the Shopping Centre Forum, Mannerheimintie 20, and Shopping Centre Kluuvi, Aleksanterinkatu 9. Car Hire Car hire is available at the airport, railway station, major hotels and tourist offices. Operators include Avis, Pohjoinen Hietaniemenkatu 6 (tel: (09) 441 155; website: www.avis.com), Budget, Malminkatu 24 (tel: (09) 686 6500; website: www.budget.fi), Europcar, Mekaanikonkatu 10 (tel: 0403 062804; website: www.europcar.fi), Hertz, Mannerheimintie 44 (tel: (020) 555 2300; website: www.hertz.fi) and Sixt, Nordenskioeldinkatu 11-13 (tel: (09) 477 2277; website: www.e-sixt.com). The minimum age for car hire varies from 19 to 25 years, depending on the hire company, with extra charges made for additional drivers. An EU driving licence or an International Driving Permit is required, including one year’s driving experience. A credit card is usually needed as a deposit. Fuel is not included in the rates and Collision Damage Waiver is extra. Bicycle Hire Owing to Helsinki’s flat topography, bicycles are a popular way of getting around, and cycle tracks run alongside footpaths. It should be noted that all bicycle traffic lights must be observed to avoid a fine. From June to late August, City Bikes are available from stands around the city upon payment of a ¬2 deposit, which is repaid on the bicycle’s return. The City of Helsinki Tourist Office offers details of this hire scheme, while information about cycling events is available from the Cycling Union of Finland, Radiokatu 20 (tel: (09) 278 6575). Bicycles are available for hire from Greenbike, Mannerheimintie 13 A 2 (tel: (09) 850 22 850; website: www.greenbike.fi). Prices start at ¬10 per day and ¬50 per week. Boat Hire During the summer, rowing boats and kayaks are a popular way of island hopping and getting around Helsinki’s shoreline. These are available for hire from Cat Sport Oy (tel: (041) 530 9240; website: www.multi.fi/~catsport/vuokraamo.html) and Rastila Camping (tel: (09) 321 6551; website www.hel.fi/liv/rastila/rastilaenglish.html). Business Business Etiquette Standard office hours are 0800-1700, although flexible hours are very common. Lunch is the main meal of the day and is taken usually between 1200-1400. Helsinkiläiset are punctual to the minute, always alerting a colleague of an impending delay, even if it is a matter of minutes – lateness is seen as a discourtesy. Bertold Brecht is famed for saying that the ‘Finns are silent in two languages’ (Swedish is also an official language, spoken by a sizable minority). They are a naturally reserved people and do not like speaking for the sake of it. Garrulous people are viewed with suspicion. When meeting for the first time, a handshake is customary, as is formal dress (suit and tie for men) but Helsinkiläiset are not flashy; dress is more smart-casual and women often wear trouser suits. Business cards are essential. Meetings and business deals are often conducted by telephone or at a sauna. Although these places are traditionally regarded as retreats, meetings often take place in these relaxed and less formal environments. Helsinkiläiset are completely unabashed about going au naturel into the sauna, which are sometimes mixed gender, although there are usually separate saunas for men and women and some sort of wrap is on hand. Saunas are never mixed in a business connection. If invited to someone’s house for dinner, lateness (over 10 minutes) is seen as a discourtesy. Shoes are usually removed before entering the house and a gift for the host, such as a bottle of wine or a bunch of flowers, is well received. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview The central hub of Helsinki is around the bustling seafront Kauppatori (Market Square). Here, locals gather to lunch, shop for fresh fish and vegetables and buy produce from the market stalls. From this point, the architectural heart of Helsinki, Senaatintori (Senate Square), is a five-minute walk away. The best overview of the city is from its tallest building, Hotel Torni, from where it is easy for one to see Helsinki’s most noted landmarks. These include Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall and Steven Holl’s arc of a building, Kiasma, the contemporary art gallery. A good way for tourists to get orientated and see the sights is to hop on tram 3T, which takes in most of the main attractions. Tourist Information City of Helsinki Tourist Office Pohjoisesplanadi 19 Tel: (09) 169 3757. Fax: (09) 169 3839. E-mail: tourist.info@hel.fi Website: www.hel.fi/tourism Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-2000, Sat and Sun 0900-1800 (May-Sep); Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 1000-1600 (Oct-Apr). Passes The Helsinki Card (website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi/helsinkicard/) entitles visitors to free travel on the buses, trams, trains and metro. A discount on a sightseeing tour, free admittance to museums and other places of interest; special discounts at restaurants, theatres, concerts and the opera, as well as gifts at department stores are also offered. The pass is valid for one day at a cost of ¬25, two days at ¬35 or three days at ¬45 (concessions available). It is available at the Tourist Office, the Hotel Booking Centre, travel agencies, city centre kiosks and hotels. The price includes a guide book in four languages. Key Attractions Senaatintori (Senate Square) Helsinki’s neo-classical heart dates from the first half of the 19th century and was built by Carl Ludvig Engel, a native of Berlin. As he was also largely responsible for St Petersburg’s architecture, the square has doubled up as a backdrop for Cold War spy-espionage films, such as Gorky Park (1983), Reds (1981) and White Nights (1985). The buildings that border the square include the white-domed Tuomiokirkko (a Lutheran cathedral, consecrated in 1852), the Government Palace and the University Library. In the centre of the square stands a statue of Tsar Alexander II, cast in 1894. Senaatintori Sederholm Talo (Sederholm House) Just near Senate Square, this stone building is the oldest in Helsinki (1757). Built in 18th-century Rococo style, Sederholm Talo has been turned into a museum that documents the life of Johan Sederholm, a Counsellor of Commerce who lived in the early part of the 18th century. Aleksanterinkatu 16-18 Tel: (09) 169 3625. Website: www.hel.fi/kaumuseo/english/sederholmintalo.html Opening hours: Sun-Thur 1100-1600 (Jan-Jun and Aug-Dec). Closed Fri-Sat. Admission charge (free on Thursdays). Kauppatori (Market Square) The Market Square (or ‘fish market’) is located on the seafront and is where the locals lunch on cheap eats, including freshly caught salmon steaks and reindeer meat. It is a great spot for tourists to find souvenirs like Russian fur hats, carved wooden bowls, gloves and hats knitted on the spot, reindeer skins and Lapp hunting knives. Additionally, an undercover market is just 100m (328ft) away, selling similar fare. The Market Hall is a great stop for souvenirs such as dried reindeer salami and Finlandia vodka (at the Alko). Kauppatori Opening hours: Mon- Fri 0630-1800, Sat 0800-1600, Sun 1000-1700 (late May-Sep). Temppeliaukion Kirkko (Temppeliaukio Church) The ‘Church in the Rock’, designed by Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, was consecrated in 1969. The church is built into solid rock, with the inner wall left raw and unfinished, and is crowned with a solid copper dome. The wall surrounding the church is made from rock quarried on the site. Lutherinkatu 3 (entrance is at the end of Fredikinkatu) Tel: (09) 494 698. Opening hours: (may vary) Mon and Wed 1000-1700, Tue 1000-1245 and 1415-1700, Thu-Fri 1000-2000, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1145-1345 and 1530-1800. Free admission. Sibelius Monumentti (Sibelius Monument) Hundreds of steel pipes shaped by sculptor Eila Hiltunen make up the impressive monument to the famous Finnish composer, Jean Sibelius (1865-1957). A rebel under oppressive Russian rule, Sibelius wrote tunes that have become synonymous with Finnish patriotism – ‘Finlandia’ came to symbolise the Finnish struggle for independence. A journey to this monument is a pilgrimage for most Finns. Sibelius Park, Töölö, between Topeliuksenkatu and Mechelininkatu Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk. Free admission. Kiasma (Contemporary Art Museum) This stunning building, built by award-winning architect Steven Holl, is a sculpture in itself. The museum showcases the best in Finnish and international contemporary art since the 1960s, with approximately 4,000 pieces on display at any one time. It has a designer café and an excellent bookshop. Mannerheiminaukio 2 Tel: (09) 1733 6501. Website: www.kiasma.fi Opening hours: Tues 0900-1700, Wed-Sun 1000-2030 (may vary). Admission charge. Taideteolisuusmuseo (Design Museum) This interesting city centre museum tracks the history of Finnish design and art, showcasing the works of Kaj Franck, Timo Sarpaneva, Alvar and Aino Aalto and others. It also features special events throughout the year, a café with chairs by legendary designer Yrjö Kukkapuro and a shop selling local crafts. Korkeavuorenkatu 23 Tel: (09) 622 0540. Website: www.designmuseum.fi Opening hours: Tues 1100-2000, Wed-Sun 1100-1800 (Sep-May); Daily 1100-1800 (Jun-Aug). Admission charge. Mannerheim Museo This fascinating museum was the home of the much-celebrated C G E Mannerheim. Born in 1867, he served for over 30 years in the Russian Imperial Army, leading Finland to independence in a bloody civil war that saw 30,000 Finns killed in 108 days. Mannerheim served as a commander-in-chief, a regent and as president. Kalliolinnantie 14, Kaivopuisto Park Tel: (09) 635 443. Website: www.mannerheim-museo.fi Opening hours: Fri-Sun (plus Jun 4 and Dec 6) 1100-1600. Admission charge. Finlandia-Talo (Finlandia Hall) Finlandia Hall is Helsinki’s conference and concert hub. The hall was built in 1971 and is one of Alvar Aalto’s most famous works. It is also home to the Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra, founded by Robert Kajanus in 1882. The hall is a great place for one to hear Finland’s finest musicians as well as appreciate the distinctive, angular architecture employed in Aalto’s buildings. Mannerheimintie 13 Tel: (09) 40241. Website: www.finlandia.hel.fi Opening hours: During events (guided tours by appointment). Admission charge for tours. Finlands Nationalmuseum (National Museum of Finland) Located opposite Finlandia Hall about 10 minutes’ walk from the city centre, this museum contains rich archaeological and ethnographic collections, depicting Finnish life from prehistory to the present day. Some of the most interesting exhibits are those on the culture of the Sami people of Lapland. Guided tours available. Mannerheimintie 34 Tel: (09) 4050 9544. Website: www.nba.fi Opening hours: Tues-Wed 1100-2000, Thurs-Sun 1100-1800. Closed Mon. Admission charge. Further Distractions Kotiharju Sauna No trip to Finland is complete without a sauna. This was once where women gave birth and the Finns still see it as a refuge and a place to rejuvenate the body and soul. This 72-year-old sauna is the last wood-heated public sauna in the downtown area. There are separate saunas for women and men. Harjutorinkatu 1 Tel: (09) 753 1535. Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1400-2000, Sat 1300-1900. Admission charge. Sea Life Helsinki An alternative to Helsinki’s cultural and architectural attractions located in Linnanmäki Amusement Park. Baltic marine biology is spotlighted by modern aquarium technology, including underwater tunnel walks. Daily fish feeding sessions provide additional entertainment, and guided tours are available by arrangement Tivoiltie 10 Tel: (09) 565 8200. Website: www.sealifehelsinki.fi Opening hours: From 1000 daily. Admission charge. Tours of the City Walking Tours Helsinki Expert, Guide Booking Centre, Lönnrotinkatu 7B (tel: (09) 2288 1500; website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi), arranges guided city walks in Finnish. Tours last from 90 minutes to two hours. Dodoni Travel Agency (tel: (09) 692 7448; website: www.dodoni.fi) offers a range of more specialised multilingual walks, including the two-hour ‘Classical Helsinki’ tour. Bus Tours Year-round sightseeing bus tours, arranged by Helsinki Expert, Guide Booking Centre, Lönnrotinkatu 7B (tel: (09) 2288 1500; website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi), depart at 1030 from the Olympia Terminal and 1045 from the Katajanokka Terminal. Commentary is in English and Swedish and there is a substantial discount for Helsinki Card holders. The tours take an hour and 45 minutes to visit all the main sights of the city. Tickets are available at the departure points, the Tourist Bureau and Hotel Booking at the Railway Station. Boat Tours Two companies offer 90-minute cruises around Helsinki, which can include food and refreshments. These are Royal Line (tel: (09) 612 2950; website: www.royalline.fi) and Sun Lines (tel: (09) 727 7010; website: www.sunlines.fi). Both companies are located at the waterfront by Market Square. Excursions For a Half Day Seurasaari: The whole island of Seurasaari is an open-air museum (tel: (09) 4050 9660; website: www.nba.fi/en/seurasaari_openairmuseum), dotted with 18th- and 19th-century houses representing the whole gamut of Finnish life. One of the islands located immediately off Helsinki’s coastline, this was the brainchild of Axel Olai Heikel, who set the museum up in 1909, to preserve the traditions of Finnish life. The oldest building on the island is the wooden Karuna Church, which was completed in 1686. The island can be reached by bus no. 24 and tram 4 from Erottaja and is open Mon-Tue and Thur-Sun 1100-1700, Wed 1100-1900 Jun-Aug; 15-31 May and 1-15 Sep Mon-Fri 0900-1500, Sat-Sun 1100-1700. Admission is charged. Tourist Board officials are on site to provide information. For a Whole Day Suomenlinna (Sea Fortress): Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this sea fortress, lying approximately 1.5km (1 mile) off the coast of Helsinki, was once the bastion of the Swedish empire, with a larger population than Helsinki itself. Work began on the huge complex in 1748, when Augustin Ehrensvärd designed a system of bastions, a dock and barracks. It is made up of two islands connected by a small bridge and includes the Suomenlinna Museum, Suomenlinna Experience (a multimedia presentation) (tel: (09) 4050 9691; website: www.nba.fi/en/suomenlinna_museum), the Doll and Toy Museum (tel: (09) 668 417), Submarine Vesikko (tel: (09) 1814 6238) and the Coastal Artillery Museum (tel: (09) 1814 5295), as well as restaurants and bars. There is a regular ferry connection to Suomenlinna from the Market Square (free with a Helsinki Card), the journey takes 15 minutes. Travel information is available from City Traffic (tel: 010 0111). Water buses also operate from May to September, again leaving from Market Square. Additional information is available from the Suomenlinna Tourist Office (tel: (09) 684 1880; website: www.suomenlinna.fi). Guided tours of the island, in English, take place at 1100 and 1400. Sport Shopping The city’s main shopping streets are Pohjoisesplanadi, Aleksanterinkatu and Fredrikinkatu. A walk around the Esplanadi reveals most of Finland’s best-known design stores, including Artek (Alvar Aalto’s store), Aarikka (jewellery), Design Forum Finland (cutting-edge furniture and accessory design) and Marimekko (fashion). Stockmann and Sokos are the best known department stores. Forum, Mannerheimintie, is the city centre’s largest shopping centre, while Itäkeskus, the largest shopping centre in Finland, can be found a short metro ride from the city centre. The new Kämp Gallery, adjacent to the hotel of the same name, offers a range of big name stores, while the Kisaleff Bazaar specialises in handicrafts and souvenir goods. Finnish jewellery is available at Tillander’s in Aleksanterinkatu. For smaller, one-off boutiques, Fredrikinkatu is the street for nick-nacks and fashion and Annankatu for antique furniture. The biggest and best markets are the Market Square (see Key Attractions), situated by the South Harbour, and the nearby Old Market Hall, where shoppers can purchase wonderful fresh food and handicrafts. The market is open Monday-Thursday 0800-1700, Friday 0800-1800 and Saturday 0800-1500. Hakaniemi Market Hall has everything from Sami dolls to reindeer skins and is probably the best place for visitors to find more unusual souvenirs. At the end of one of Helsinki’s most upmarket streets, the Bulevardi, is the Hietalahti Flea Market, where rich Helsinkiläiset discard their designer gear. The range is huge, with covetable purchases including Russian accordions, second-hand jewellery and general junk. The market is open weekdays 0800-1400 and Saturday 0800-1500. Hietalahti Market Hall is an organic produce market located in a newly restored building in art nouveau style and open Monday-Friday 0800-1800 and Saturday 0800-1500. Shops are generally open weekdays 0900-1700 and Saturday 0900-1300/1400. Department stores and shopping centres open weekdays 0900-2100 and Saturday 0900-1800. VAT, charged at 17% or 22% dependent on the type of goods, is included in the marked price. Non-EU residents can claim 10-16% tax back upon departure, for items over ¬40 purchased from stores with the ‘Tax Free for Visitors’ sign. Presentation of receipts and a passport will be required. Culture Although young by European standards, Helsinki is alive with cultural activity. After World War I and Finland’s independence from Russia, the country boomed both economically and culturally. Helsinki is Finland’s hot spot for cultural events. The major annual events are in summer, although there are productions throughout the year. The largest concerts are shown at the Hartwall Areena, Areenakuja 1 (tel: (020) 41997 or 0600 10 800/020 for tickets; website: www.hartwall-areena.com), or the Hall of Culture, Sturenkatu 4 (tel: (09) 774 0270; website: www.kulttuuritalo.fi). Another venue with a constantly changing list of dance, music and theatre is the Kaapelitehdas (Cable Factory), Taliberginkatu 1C (tel: (09) 4763 8300; website: www.kaapelitehdas.fi), an ex-Nokia factory, now resident to over 100 artists. For the latest events, visitors can pick up a copy of Helsinki This Week (website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi/helsinkithisweek_eng) at 200 distribution points around the city, or visit the online theatre listings (website: www.teatteri.org). Tiketti is the Ticket Theatre Information Centre, Forum 3rd Floor, Yrjönkatu 29C (tel: (0600) 11616; website: www.tiketti.fi). Tickets are also available online, through Lippupalvelu Oy (tel: (0600) 10800 (¬1.30 per min); website: www.lippupalvelu.fi), Finland’s nationwide ticket retailer. Music: The main concert hall for national and international acts is Finlandia Hall, Mannerheimintie 13E (tel: (09) 40241; website: www.finlandia.hel.fi), which is home to the Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.hel.fi/filharmonia), founded by Robert Kajanus in 1882. The Hall of Culture (see above) is also used. Concerts are staged by the students at the Sibelius Academy of All Music, Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 9 (tel: (09) 407 151400; website: www.siba.fi/welcome-eng.html). Details of the times of performances and programmes are available from the customer service desk at the City of Helsinki Tourist Office. Chamber music is held in various venues, including churches such as Temppeliaukio, Lutherinkatu 3 (tel: (09) 494 698). The works of Jean Sibelius are popular with Helsinki audiences, although the works of rising stars such as Magnus Lindberg, are also widely performed. The Finnish National Opera, the Suomen Kansallisoopera (website: www.operafin.fi), has its residence at the Finnish National Opera House, Helsinginkatu 58 (tel: (09) 4030 2211). Theatre: There are two main venues, both showing mainly classical productions (such as Ibsen) in Finnish. These are the Finnish National Theatre (Suomen Kansallisteatteri), Läntinen Teatterikuja 1B (tel: (09) 173 311; website: www.nationaltheatre.fi), and Helsinki City Theatre (Kaupunginteatteri), Eläintarhantie 5 (tel: (09) 394 0422, tickets or 39401, information; website: www.hkt.fi). Dance: The Finnish Ballet School also has its residence at the Finnish National Opera House (see above). More information on all the other various dance companies in Helsinki is available online (website: www.danceinfo.fi). Film: Helsinki has many cinemas. Each week, a programme showing times and venues is published by the City of Helsinki Tourist Office. Box offices open an hour before the first show of the day. The Finnish Film Archive, Pursimiehenkatu 29-31 (tel: (09) 615 400; website: www.sea.fi/english), requires membership (available on the day) and allows one ticket to all performances. The archive shows classic and cult films. Mainstream films can be seen at one of the city’s multiplexes: The Bristol, Mikonkatu 8 (tel: (0600) 007 007), Kinopalatsi, Kaisaniemenkatu 2B (tel: (0600) 944 944), Forum 1-7, Mannerheimintie 16 (tel: (0600) 007007), and Tennispalatsiisti, Salomonkatu 15 (tel: (0600) 007 007). Virtually all films are screened in their original soundtracks, with subtitles in Finnish and Swedish. Finnish cinema is highly acclaimed – a large part of which can be attributed to a Finnish film-making fraternal team, Mika and Aki Kaurismäki. Both brothers set some of their films in Helsinki, including Mika’s gangster flick, Helsinki Napoli All Night Long (1987) and Aki’s take on Dostoyevsky’s classic Crime and Punishment (1983). The Helsinki Film Festival is held in September each year (tel: (09) 6843 5230; website: www.hiff.fi). Literary Notes: One of Helsinki’s more noted writers and commentators is Eino Leino, whose work Helsingissä (1905), documented life under the Russians. Another work outlining this era is by Maila Talvio, who wrote Itämeren tytär (1929-36), a trilogy about 18th-century Helsinki. The widely acclaimed author, Mika Waltari, penned the trilogy, Isästä poikaan, describing three generations in Helsinki from the 1860s to the mid-1930s. Other social commentators have included Anders Cleve, whose short stories in Gatstenar (1959), describe life in 1950s Helsinki and Alpo Ruuth, whose book Kotimaa (1974) documented a young working-class couple’s life in the 1960s. More recent works include Rosa Liksom’s popular collection of short stories, Yhden yön pysäkki (1985). Last, but not least, Tove Jansson (1914-2001), creator of the ‘Moomin’ children’s books, was born in Helsinki. She wrote the originals in Swedish, but she is still considered the real Finnish international literary ‘superstar’, translated into 25 languages worldwide. Nightlife Most of the nightlife is centrally located around Uudenmaankatu and Eerikinkatu and bar-hopping is easily done on foot. The Helsinkiläiset are fairly relaxed about their dress code; visitors will feel at ease in anything from jeans to eveningwear, depending on the venue. Helsinki seems to specialise in the bar-cum-restaurant – the early shift comes to dine, the later crowd to party. Most stay open until about 0300 in the summer, while hours vary in the winter, often depending on patronage. Discos or nightclubs generally close about 0400. The Finns love dancing to tango music and many restaurants have dancefloors. Outdoor dancing is a particular favourite and can be found at Pavin tanssilava, in nearby Vantaa. The legal drinking age is 18, although some pubs and discos have an age limit of 21 years. The minimum age for nightclubs is generally 24 years. The price of a bottle of beer is approximately ¬3-3.50, while a glass of wine costs from ¬3 to ¬4. The best guide to the city is Helsinki This Week published by the City of Helsinki Tourist Office and widely available (website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi). Bars: Most of the bars are found on two nearby streets, so a bar crawl will reveal most of Helsinki’s nightlife. Molly Malone’s, Kaisaniemenkatu 1C, is a lively pub in the generic ‘Irish’ style, with regular live music. For surroundings with a difference, Restaurant Zetor (see Restaurants) at Mannerheimintie 3, is a must – here one can drink and dine amid a collection of agricultural machinery. The trendy Bar 9, Uudenmaankatu 9, domain of Helsinki’s movers and shakers. Just beside it is Bar Tapasta, Uudenmaankatu 13, a hole-in-the-wall bar, always spilling over with a hip crowd washing down tasty tapas with designer beers. Bar Corona, Eerikinkatu 11, has billiards, pool and a laid-back atmosphere, where you can either perch at the bar or sit outside on the street. Just next door is MOSKOVA, normally packed with youngsters enjoying a honey-vodka or ten. Further down the road, Mother, Eerikinkatu 2, is another popular hangout, while a little further along is Con Hombres, Eerikinkatu 14, a small, often packed gay bar, which plays some of Helsinki’s best techno tunes. Café Tin Tin Tango, Töölöntorinkatu 7, is an unusual venue with built in launderette and sauna. The Finnish national passion for tango dancing can be experienced at Vanha Maestro, Fredrikinkatu 51-53. Casinos: Grand Casino, Mikonkatu 19 (tel: (09) 6808 0380; website: www.grandcasinohelsinki.fi/en) is open from 1200-0400 daily, offers the full range of gambling games and machines. Foreign nationals can register as guests. It is Finland’s only venue of its type, and attracts over 200,000 visitors annually. Located close to the main railway station, it is operated by the Finnish Slot Machine Association. Clubs: It is difficult to know where to place Café Soda, Annankatu/Uudenmaankatu 16, as it is a café by day, bar by night and nightclub after midnight. DJs spin Helsinki’s best moves and grooves and a young, funky crowd frequent the bar and dance floor. Nightclub DTM, Annakatu 6, is large, noisy, gay and steaming with pumping techno music. Hotel clubs tend to cater to the business crowd – some of the more popular include the Helsinki Nightclub, Sokos Hotel, Kluuvikatu 8, Helsinki, Yliopistonkatu 8, and Hesperia Nightclub, at the Radisson SAS Hesperia Hotel, Mannerheimintie 12. Club Ooppera is a lively R’n’B and hiphop restaurant in Mannerheimintie, and the nearby La Tour is open Wed-Sat with a lower age limit of 24. Live Music: The best source of information on entertainment is found in the daily press or Helsinki This Week. The Finnish Music Information Centre (MIC), Lauttasaarentie 1 (tel: (09) 6810 1313; website: www.fimic.fi), also provides information. Current top Finnish rock and pop groups groups include Nightwish, The Flaming Sideburns, Ultra Bra, Nylon Beat, HIM, Darude, Bomfunk MC, J Karjalainen, Heikki Silennoinen, Soul-special and Sami Saari. Other favourite singers include Karita Mattila, Arja Koriseva (the queen of Tango music) and Soile Isokoski. A good club for live music is Nosturi, Telakkakatu 8 (website: www.elmu.fi). For major rock concerts, the venue is Tavastia Klubi, Urho Kekkosen katu 4-6 (website: www.tavastiaklubi.fi). For jazz, the Storyville Live Jazz Club, Museokatu 8 (website: www.storyville.fi), has a different band on most nights, including the Helsinki City Jazz Orchestra. A newer venue is JUMO, Pursimiehenkatu 6. City Statistics Location: Uusimaa region, south coast of Finland. Country dialling code: 358. Population: 559,050 (city); 1,240,482 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Saturday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: - 5°C (23°F). Average July temp: 17°C (62°F). Annual rainfall: 600mm (23.6 inches). Special Events Helsinki Festival, festival of dance, music, theatre, Aug-Sep, various venues Helsinki Design Week, Sep, various venues Baltic Herring Market, Oct, Market Square Forces of Light, illumination of the city, Nov-Dec, throughout the city Independence Day, honour guard and procession, 6 Dec, Senate Square Ladies’ Christmas Market, Dec, handicrafts and food, Wanha Satama, City Centre Christmas Market, Dec, Esplanade Square New Year’s Eve, 31 Dec, Senate Square Runeberg Day, poet J L Runeberg is commemorated with a day of cake eating, Feb, throughout the city Helsinki International Boat Show, Feb, Helsinki Fair Centre Helsinki Antique and Art Fair, late Mar- early Apr, Wanha Satama, City Centre May Day, 1 May, throughout the city World Village Festival, May, international music, arts and food, various venues, city centre Kruununhaka, Halkolaituri Helsinki Day, 12 Jun, festival celebrating founding day of Helsinki, throughout city Juhannusvalkeat, 24 Jun, Midsummer’s eve celebration with bonfires, folk music and dancing, Seurasaari Open Air Museum Helsinki Pride Festival, late Jun – early Jul, lesbian and gay event, Kalsaniemi Park Storyville Jazz Club, Jul, jazz events, various venues Helsinki City Marathon, early Aug, around city and coast Cost of Living 1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |
