World City Guide

Fondly known as the Bayou City, although nowadays more frequently referred to as the Space City, Houston was founded in 1836 (by brothers Augustus and John Allen) on the banks of Buffalo Bayou (a creek). This southeast Texan city is named after General Sam Houston, of the Texas Army that won independence from Mexico. Within a year of its foundation, Houston became the capital of the Republic of Texas until 1840, when that honour was transferred to Austin. However, this Republic was rather short-lived as Texas joined the Union in 1845. It kept itself an escape route, however – the right to secede whenever it wishes is written into the constitution.

Despite its high-rise skyline, Houston has an open feel with several lakes and waterways (such as the Buffalo Bayou) winding their way through the city, surrounded by lush green landscape. The city has been a dynamic centre of business, particularly in oil, since ‘black gold’ was discovered at nearby Beaumont in 1901. It is also the leader in space technology – Houston is home to NASA and the Johnson Space Center, the base for Mission Control and the place where astronauts are trained. It was established in 1961, as NASA’s primary site for the design, development and testing of spacecraft for human flight. The port area, which linked to the city by the Houston Ship Channel, an 80km (50-mile) inland waterway, is thriving and has developed into an important business district for the city. Other districts, such as Interstate 10’s Energy Corridor and the areas around the Galleria and the Texas Medical Center, are also pivotal points in Houston’s commercial concerns. The city is the now the fourth largest in America, covering an area of 1600 sq km (618 sq miles).

In recent years, Houston’s Downtown has undergone a dramatic transformation into a dynamic area of the city, both as an entertainment and as a residential district, with many buildings being converted into loft apartments and selling at a premium. The area is a magnet for people who wish to have dinner, see a movie or a show and walk along the historic waterfront in Sesquicentennial Park. Bayou Place, an entertainment complex in the Downtown Theater District, has been a great addition to the area, providing restaurants, live music and a multiplex cinema. Lovers of theatre are well catered for year round, as Houston is one of a handful of American cities that has permanent ballet, orchestra, opera and theatre companies. Uptown Houston is the major shopping district, while areas such as Montrose (where artists, actors and musicians gather) and Heights (with beautiful Victorian homes) all give a sense of the diversity of the city.

Houston has a temperate climate all year round, although the humidity in the height of summer can make the city feel warmer than the actual temperature. Such a climate means lush green gardens, fragrant flowers and towering trees. Houston is alive and thriving and the attractions of such a vibrant city, as well as the mild climate and the many opportunities in industries like oil and gas, computers, aerospace and medicine, have turned it into a desirable place in which to live.

Getting There By Air

George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH)
Tel: (281) 230 3100.
Website: www.houstonairportsystem.org

Located 35km (22 miles) north of the city, the airport is used by 22 airlines, for both international and domestic flights, serving over 180 destinations worldwide from five terminals (the new terminal E opened in 2004). In 2004, over 34 million passengers passed through the airport.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, tourist information, car hire (Avis, Dollar and Hertz among others), duty free, shops, restaurants and bars.

Transport to the city: Express Shuttle (tel: (713) 523 8888; website: www.airportexpresshouston.com) operates a service to Downtown, daily 0615-2315 every 30 minutes (journey time – one hour). Tickets cost US$23. METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000; website: www.ridemetro.org) operates regular public buses (102 Bush IAH) to Downtown, Monday-Friday 0500-0100, every 25-40 minutes (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Tickets are considerably cheaper at US$1.50. Taxis are also available outside the terminals and fares to Downtown are in the region of US$37.50.

William P Hobby Airport (HOU)
Tel: (713) 640 3000.
Website: www.houstonairportsystem.org

Located 16km (10 miles) to the southeast of Houston, the airport provides domestic flights to over 55 US cities, served by five airlines. In 2004, over 7.6 million passengers used the airport.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, tourist information, car hire (Avis, Dollar and Hertz among others), shops and restaurants.

Transport to the city: Express Shuttle (tel: (713) 523 8888; website: www.airportexpresshouston.com) operates a regular service to Downtown, daily 0700-2300 (journey time – 1 hour). Tickets cost US$18. METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000; website: www.ridemetro.org) operates regular public buses (101 Airport Express) to Downtown, daily 0500-0100 every 30-45 minutes (journey time – 45 minutes). Tickets cost US$1. Taxis are available outside the terminals and fares to Downtown are in the region of US$20.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Interstate highways in the USA are designated by the letter I and a number. In addition to the interstates, there are state and local roads. The traffic drives on the right and overtaking should only be done on the inside lane, although cars on a five-lane highway regularly pass on both sides. At crossroads without traffic lights, the four-way stop system means that it is first come first served for right of way. At traffic lights, a right turn is permitted (with due care) on a red light, unless it is specifically stated not to do so. All drivers, front-seat passengers and children (under the age of 17) are required by law to use seatbelts. It is illegal to pass a school bus (from either direction) if it has stopped and has its hazard lights flashing. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. The speed limit is 48kph (30mph), if there are no signs, although the general posted speed limit in town is 56-72kph (35-45mph) and 32kph (20mph) near a school. Freeway driving speeds are 88-113kph (55-70mph).

The legal driving age in Houston is 16 years. A valid drivers licence in English or an International Driving Permit (IDP) is required – IDPs are not accepted unless accompanied by a valid driving licence. Third-party liability insurance is mandatory.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333; website: www.aaa-texas.com) can provide information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP/222 4357

There is also a free number (tel: (800) 525 5555) which can offer advice on nearby garages to contact in the event of a breakdown. Be aware that on the freeway, cars that have broken down are towed off immediately and there is a charge for this. It is best to get off the freeway if there is a problem with the car.

Routes to the city: Houston is encircled by Interstate I-610 – known as The Loop. This is intersected by Interstate I-10, which links the city to San Antonio to the west and New Orleans to the east, and also Interstate I-45 from Dallas to the north and Galveston to the south.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (713) 759 6565; website: www.greyhound.com) operates regular services to San Antonio, Dallas and New Orleans. There are also Greyhound services to other major towns and cities in Texas and further afield. The bus station is located at 2121 Main Street and is open 24 hours a day, although it has minimal facilities.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) USA RAIL or 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) operates long-distance services from Houston Amtrak Station, 902 Washington Avenue (tel: (713) 224 1577). The ticket office is open Monday to Friday 0900-2400 and Sunday 0900-1630. Closed Saturdays. The cost of rail travel is rather expensive but the level of comfort is high.

Rail services: The Sunset Limited service links Houston with San Antonio, El Paso, Tucson and Los Angeles in the west. To the East, there are services to New Orleans and Orlando.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Public transport in Houston is fairly well developed and reasonably priced. Nevertheless, most visitors to Houston generally prefer to hire a car, for ease of movement. The Metropolitan Transit Authority – METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000; website: www.ridemetro.org) operates an extensive bus service throughout the city.

There are fare boxes on the bus (correct change is required). Alternatively, visitors can buy tokens in advance. Day passes allow unlimited travel (on the local service only) in a 24-hour period, and weekly passes are also available. Concessions are available on all fares and passes. Information and tickets can be obtained from RideStores, located at 1900 Main Street, and 1001 Travis (open Monday-Friday 0730-1730). Local shops displaying the METROstop sign also sell tickets.

In addition, METRO operates a trolley bus service, which covers three different routes that link the major hotels with tourist destinations.

A new light rail system, Metrorail, opened in 2004 with services from Downtown via the Museum District, Texas Medical Center to Reliant Park. Payment is by coins or tokens with a MetroRide Card pass being introduced soon.

Taxis
Taxis are plentiful but can be rather expensive for short distances. A tip of around 10% of the fare is usual. There are plenty of cabs in Downtown but elsewhere they are more difficult to find and it is better to phone for one. Companies include Taxis Fiesta (tel: (713) 225 2666), Square Deal Cab Company (tel: (713) 659 7236) and Yellow Cab Company (tel: (713) 236 1111; website: www.yellowcabhouston.com).

Driving in the City
Most visitors to Houston prefer to hire a car, as it is the best and most cost-effective way of travelling around the city. Driving in the morning and evening rush hours (0700-0900 and 1630-1830) should be avoided, as the roads are very congested. Other than that, there is a massive construction programme underway in Houston and the I-10 and I-610 will be chaotic as a result until 2009 and 2007 respectively. The highways have Protected High Occupancy Vehicle lanes for buses, carpools and vanpools, which reduce the commuter traffic.

Parking is generally not a problem with plenty of car parks right across the city. Many attractions or venues have free parking for visitors. Some on-street parking is available, although difficult to find in Downtown. The maximum period is only one hour, but parking is generally free after 1800 away from the popular Downtown area. It is best to check before parking.

Car Hire
Insurance is compulsory when hiring a car in Houston. It should also be confirmed that there is adequate Loss Damage Waiver and personal liability insurance. Visitors looking to hire a car must be in possession of a full national driving licence. The minimum age is generally 25 years, although some companies will hire cars (at a higher rate) to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years. Avis, 4825 Richmond Avenue at Galleria (tel: (713) 629 7230; website: www.avis.com), Dollar, 8686 Kirby Drive (tel: (713) 797 9624; website: www.dollar.com), and Hertz, 2120 Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 652 0436; website: www.hertz.com), all have offices in Houston.

Bicycle Hire
Cycling is an ideal way to take advantage of the many cycle trails in Houston’s parks. Bicycles can be rented from West End Bicycles (tel: (713) 861 2271; website: www.westendbikes.com) at 5427 Blossom Street, east of Memorial Park.

Business

Business Etiquette
American businesspeople tend to be more informal than their European counterparts and are likely to use first names on initial contact. Business attire for both men and women is usually a suit, especially in the large corporations. Some of the smaller companies have adopted a more relaxed approach to dress and allow employees to wear smart-casual clothes, although definitely not jeans. The use of business cards is commonplace. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and punctuality is expected. It is quite common for meetings to be held over lunch but these tend to be alcohol free and strictly business. Business dinners usually take place in restaurants rather than at homes and exchanging of gifts is not usual practice. After-work drinking is commonplace as many bars have happy hours until 1900. Business hours are officially Monday-Friday 0900-1730, although these are often much longer.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Houston’s skyline is testament to the oil boom era and a period of extensive development that stopped abruptly in the 1980s. Several buildings, such as the Chase Tower, have observation floors from where it is possible to see the vast flat area over which the city sprawls. A 10km (6 mile) system of underground pedestrian tunnels and sky walks add an extra dimension to the street guide and are particularly welcome as an escape from the summer heat.

The Sam Houston Historical Park illustrates the early history of Houston. Across the street is the recently renovated Art Deco-style City Hall. Lovers of open spaces will be drawn to the lovely Hermann Park, which is not only home to the Houston Zoo but also contains two gardens that are totally different in style – the Japanese Gardens, with a traditional teahouse and wooden footbridges, and the Houston Garden Center. In addition to this, there is also a golf course and the Miller Outdoor Theatre, which offers free outdoor performances during the summer months. Close by is the Museum District (a beautiful area of tree-lined paths, landscaped gardens and fountains) which is packed with many of Houston’s finest museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Menil Collection and the Holocaust Museum Houston. Also worth a visit is the Williams Tower Water Wall, where water cascades down a 19.5m (64ft) curved black wall in the shape of a horseshoe. The latest popular attraction downtown is the Downtown Aquarium with its stunning sea life displays combined with the fun of the fair. No longer open for tours, the Astrodome was the world’s first air-conditioned domed stadium for baseball and football. The Astrodome (so large that an 18-storey building would fit inside it) prompted the invention of plastic Astroturf, after the grass died during the first season of play.

Tourist Information
Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
901 Bagby Street
Tel: (713) 437 5556.
Website: www.visithoustontexas.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1600, Sun 1100-1600.

Visitor information is also available from Bay Area Convention and Visitors Bureau at 20710 Gulf Freeway (I-45), Webster (tel: (281) 338 0333; website: www.visitbayareahouston.com).

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Houston.

Key Attractions

Space Center Houston
The Space Center Houston is a privately operated attraction that acts as the official visitor centre of NASA’s Johnson Space Center. Exhibits include the Gemini and Apollo capsules, other space flight hardware, including a full-size mock-up of a space shuttle, and astronaut memorabilia. Visitors can enjoy a behind-the-scenes tour of the Johnson Space Center, hands-on space simulators, IMAX films and even watch astronauts train for upcoming shuttle missions. They can also take a virtual tour of the International Space Station and experience the sensation of weightlessness.

1601 NASA Road 1
Tel: (281) 244 2100.
Website: www.spacecenter.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1800 (Sep-May); daily 1000-1900 (Jun), daily 0900-1900 (Jul); Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1900 (Aug).
Admission fee.

Contemporary Arts Museum
The Contemporary Arts Museum, established in 1948, is housed in an award-winning contemporary all-metal structure. It displays new and recent works of the last 40 years, by regional, national and international contemporary artists. Recent exhibitions included the works of the avant-garde artist Yoko Ono, black conceptual art, the influence of comics in contemporary art and the art of Patti Smith, where many of her drawings were inspired by the events of 9/11.

5216 Montrose Boulevard, Museum District
Tel: (713) 284 8250.
Website: www.camh.org
Opening hours: Tues and Wed 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri and Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Free admission.

Museum of Fine Arts
The Museum of Fine Arts has an impressive collection of over 45,000 pieces of art, including antiquities and Renaissance art through to Impressionism and early Modernism. It also has fine African sculptures, textiles and costumes. The striking Beck Building has a roof that is studded with skylights, which gives ideal lighting conditions in which to view the paintings. Highlights include the Straus Collection of Renaissance and 18th-century paintings and the Beck Collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art, including Van Gogh, Monet, Matisse and Gauguin.

1001 Bissonnet Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 639 7300.
Website: www.mfah.org
Opening hours: Tues and Wed 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri and Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1215-1900.
Admission fee; free on Thurs.

Menil Collection
The Menil Collection is the home of the works of art collected by John and Dominique de Menil (a prominent, wealthy Houston family) while on their travels. The private collection includes antiquities, Byzantine art, tribal art and 20th-century works, such as Cubism, Minimalism, Surrealism and Pop Art. There is also a permanent collection of astronomical instruments and ceremonial masks, which fascinated the Surrealists.

1515 Sul Ross Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 525 9400.
Website: www.menil.org
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1100-1900.
Free admission.

Holocaust Museum Houston
The Holocaust Museum Houston serves as a memorial to the millions who were imprisoned and died in Nazi death camps in World War II. The museum contains a permanent exhibition hall, regularly changing temporary exhibitions, a memorial area and sculpture garden. A permanent exhibition (‘Bearing Witness: A Community Remembers’) reveals the atrocities of the Holocaust through the words and memorabilia of local survivors. The museum features a 30-minute film, Voices, which is a montage of oral stories by Holocaust survivors from the Houston area. Guided tours available at weekends at 1230, 1330, 1430 and 1530.

5401 Caroline Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 942 8000.
Website: www.hmh.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat and Sun 1200-1700.
Free admission.

Houston Museum of Natural Science
This museum contains an impressive collection of natural exhibits. Highlights include the Cockrell Butterfly Center – filled with butterflies and tropical plants and featuring a 21m (40ft) waterfall, a rainforest environment, a planetarium and permanent exhibitions of dinosaur skeletons. There is also an IMAX theatre, a stunning collection of gems and minerals, a four-screen video wall about the wildlife of Texas, the interactive Discovery Place where children can investigate science in action and the Foucault pendulum which demonstrates the Earth’s rotation.

1 Hermann Circle Drive, Museum District
Tel: (713) 639 4629.
Website: www.hmns.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1100-1700. Times vary for the planetarium and IMAX.
Admission fee.

Houston Zoo
A very popular visitor attraction, the Houston Zoo covers 22 hectares (55 acres) and is home to over 700 species of animals, reptiles and amphibians. The zoo was established in Hermann Park in 1922 and is now an important centre for conservation and research. Most days, there are opportunities to view the feeding of certain animals (such as vampire bats) and also to see demonstrations by sea lions. The Wortham World of Primates is a lush 0.88-hectare (2.2-acre) replication of the natural rainforest habitat for the 13 species of monkeys and apes on show there. Other popular attractions are the big cats – including white tigers, leopards and jaguars.

1513 North MacGregor Street, Hermann Park, Museum District
Tel: (713) 533 6500.
Website: www.houstonzoo.org
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 Mar-Sep and 0900-1700 Oct-Feb.
Admission fee.

Children’s Museum of Houston
A wonderful experience for those aged from four months to 14 years, the Children’s Museum of Houston has a variety of hands-on exhibits in the fields of science, history, culture and arts. Activities concerning the environment feature tree rubbing and insect collecting and there is an open-air art studio to allow children to be creative. Permanent exhibits include the ‘Think Tank’ which is a problem-solving exhibit using mirror magic and optical illusions; The Fondren Technikids Gallery which helps children discover the answers to many science questions; and the Tot Spot for very young children to join in the fun.

1500 Binz Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 522 1138.
Website: www.cmhouston.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1200-1700 and Mon 0900-1700 between Memorial Day and Labour Day only.
Admission fee; free for families Thurs 1700-2000.

Sam Houston Historical Park
The 8-hectare (19-acre) Sam Houston Historical Park contains a collection of restored historic buildings – including houses, a church and a reconstructed row of shops. The buildings have been collected together on this site, to go with the 1847 Kellum-Noble House, the oldest house in Houston. A recent addition to the collection is the 1870 two-storey house belonging to Jack Yates, the first to be built by a freed slave. These historic buildings set against the sleek city skyscrapers make for a great photo opportunity. The only way to see the houses is on one of the regular guided tours.

1100 Bagby Street
Tel: (713) 655 1912.
Website: www.heritagesociety.org
Opening hours: Guided tours Tues-Fri 1000, 1130, 1300 and 1430, Sat 1000-1500 on the hour and Sun 1300-1500 on the hour; museum Tue-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1300-1600.
Free admission to the museum; fee payable for historical house tours.

John P McGovern Museum of Health & Medical Science
A fascinating museum, the Museum of Health & Medical Science (part of the world-renowned Texas Medical Center) gives an exciting tour of the human body in the Jim Hickox Amazing Body Pavilion, with huge sculptures of human organs (including a 10-foot tall walk-through brain and a 22-foot long backbone with ribs descending from the ceiling to the floor). There is also a large walk-in eyeball that demonstrates how the eye receives and perceives images, as well as plenty of hands-on and interactive exhibits that explore how the body works and how to stay healthy.

1515 Hermann Drive, Museum District
Tel: (713) 942 7054.
Website: www.mhms.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700 (also open Mondays from Memorial Day to Labour Day), Sun 1200-1700.
Admission fee; free for families Thurs 1600-1900.

Downtown Aquarium
An opportunity to experience an underwater world brimming with hundreds of exotic species in naturalistic ecosystems, all from the safety of the Shark Voyage train which travels through the middle of the tank. Sea life is recreated around various exhibits of different sea life habitats, including a sunken galleon, a coral reef, the Amazon rainforest and the swamplands of Louisiana. In addition there are a number of funfair rides, all with a marine theme.

410 Bagby Street at Memorial
Tel: (713) 223 3474.
Website: www.downtownaquarium.com
Opening hours: Sun-Thu 1000-2200, Fri and Sat 1000-2300.
Admission fee.

Further Distractions

National Museum of Funeral History
The National Museum of Funeral History houses memorabilia from the funerals of celebrity figures, such as John F Kennedy, Martin Luther King, Judy Garland, John Wayne and Elvis Presley. A recent addition is the original equipment for the John F Kennedy Eternal Flame, which was used between 1967 and 1998. The collection also includes a funeral sleigh and a Packard mourning bus.

415 Barren Springs Drive
Tel: (281) 876 3063.
Website: www.nmfh.org

Houston Arboretum & Nature Center
Visitors who wish to escape the hustle and bustle of the city can enjoy the native plants and wildlife at the Houston Arboretum & Nature Center. The centre has 8km (5 miles) of nature trails covering various habitats (such as forest and prairie) which cater for the different requirements of the animals living there.

4501 Woodway Drive
Tel: (713) 681 8433.
Website: www.houstonarboretum.org

1940 Air Terminal Museum
A rare example of classic art deco airport architecture that served Houston travellers during the golden age of air travel. Exhibitions feature uniforms, memorabilia and documents from the period together with weather charts, radios and navigational maps.

8325 Travelair Road
Tel: (713) 454 1940.
Website: www.1940airterminal.com

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Houston is not an ideal city to walk around, however, visitors who are interested in the architecture and culture of the city can join one of the monthly Sunday walking tours, which are offered by the Greater Houston Preservation Alliance (tel: (713) 216 5000; website: www.ghpa.org). The tours vary each month, so keen walkers should telephone for details and departure point information. Discover Houston Tours (tel: (713) 222 9255; website: www.discoverhoustontours.com) also offers a variety of walking tours in Downtown, the Museum District, the Historic District and the Tunnel System. Reservations are required.

Alternatively, both Memorial Park and Buffalo Bayou have jogging trails that are ideal for getting some fresh air. The views of the Downtown skyline are spectacular from the Buffalo Bayou.

Bus Tours
Houston Tours (tel: (713) 988 5900; website: www.houstontours.com) has a year-round city sightseeing tour. A minimum of three passengers is required. The tour passes through Downtown, the Theater District, the Museum District, the Texas Medical Center and includes the Water Wall, the Galleria and River Oaks area. Houston Tours also operate a tour to the Space Center Houston. Pick up for tours is from all major hotels inside Loop 610.

An intriguing three-hour tour takes place most weeks run by High Spirits (tel: (713) 224 2868; website: www.highspiritstours.com). It takes in Houston’s haunted places, starting at the Downtown Spaghetti Warehouse, one of the most haunted buildings in Texas, and including a cemetery and pub.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Kemah Boardwalk: Only a 45-minute drive from Downtown (south along I-45 and Tex-518) Kemah is a popular half-day trip, due to its waterfront shops, restaurants and amusement rides. Nearby, the Old Seabrook Historic District is a charming village with shop-lined streets, outdoor markets and seasonal festivals. Information is available from the Kemah Boardwalk (tel: (281) 334 9880; website: www.kemahboardwalk.com).

George Ranch Historical Park: Located 30 minutes southwest of Downtown at 10215 FM762, Richmond (tel: (281) 343 0218; website: www.georgeranch.org), this is a 23,000-acre working ranch, where visitors can witness a cowboy cattle drive, as well as experience the struggle of early pioneers to Texas.

For a Whole Day

San Jacinto Battleground Historical Complex: Approximately 32km (20 miles) east of Houston (along Tex-225 and Tex-134) is the spot that marks the battleground where Texas won its independence from Mexico in 1836. The complex (tel: (281) 479 2421; website: www.sanjacinto-museum.org) houses the San Jacinto Monument (currently closed for renovation), which is a 174m (570ft) obelisk that towers over the surrounding area – there is an observation deck for visitors to enjoy the views. At the base of the monument is the San Jacinto Museum of History (open daily 0900-1800). Of particular interest is the Battleship Texas (open daily 1000-1700), commissioned in 1914, which saw action at Normandy and Okinawa. The site is open daily 0800-2100 April to September and 0800-1900 October to March). The film Texas Forever! is shown every hour until 1700 at the Jesse H Jones Theater for Texas Studies.

Galveston Island: Located 80km (50 miles) southeast of Houston (along I-45) on the Gulf of Mexico, this island (website: www.galveston.com) is rich in history. The grand avenues and quiet lanes of the East End and Silk Stocking Historic Districts are home to some extravagant residences built by the wealthy merchants. The Strand has Victorian shops, art galleries and museums. Across the island, Moody Gardens (tel: (800) 582 4673; website: www.moodygardens.com) houses an aquarium representing the oceans of the world, a tropical rainforest and an IMAX screen, as well as one of America’s first IMAX ridefilm theatres with wrap-around screens giving the sensation of being in the film. The complex is open 1000-1800 Sunday to Friday and 1000-2000 Saturday and daily 1000-2100 in the summer. Day passes can be booked online. The nearby Lone Star Flight Museum (tel: (409) 740 7722; website: www.lsfm.org) houses an extensive collection of restored aircraft and is open daily 0900-1700.

Sport

Shopping

Houston is a shopper’s paradise, as there are over 30 malls in the area. There is even a 10km (6-mile) system of underground pedestrian tunnels and sky walks for weather-free shopping and dining. The Uptown area of Houston, around Westheimer Road at Post Oak, has a host of shops, including Macy’s, Versace, Tiffany and Gucci. Most are all located in the Galleria (website: www.simon.com) – a shopping mall that is also one of Houston’s top tourist attractions, with a giant indoor ice skating rink as its centrepiece. A few blocks east of the Galleria on Westheimer Road is the Highland Village Shopping Center (website: www.shophighlandvillage.com), with several upmarket shops. In the same vicinity is Uptown Park (website: www.uptownparkhouston.com), a European-style plaza with fountains and small gardens.

A more eclectic mix of shops can be found in the Rice Village neighbourhood, with designer boutiques, art and craft galleries and traditional shops. Art galleries and antique shops are to be found in the Upper Kirby District. Houston’s oldest shopping district, West Gray Street, now has a string of Art Deco-inspired upmarket shops and galleries in the River Oaks Shopping Center. A haven for serious budget shoppers is Katy Mills Mall (website: www.katymills.com) around 25 miles (40km) west of Downtown. It has a wealth of discounted designer shops.

Most visitors to Texas come away with an item of cowboy wear, such as a stetson, and these can be bought at Pinto Ranch (website: www.pintoranch.com) at 1717 Post Oak Boulevard. Other best buys include Western-style boots, clothes and riding equipment. Antiques and arts and crafts bargain hunters should go to the Back Bay Market (tel: (281) 474 3869), held twice a month, south of Downtown in Clear Lake. Trader’s Village (website: www.tradersvillage.com) is an open-air bargain hunters’ paradise, selling anything and everything. It takes place on a Saturday and Sunday at North Eldridge Road and is a great day out.

There is a sales tax of 8.25%, which foreign visitors can claim back if exporting their purchases. This can be done at Texas Tax Back, Level 3 of Galleria II (tel: (713) 965 9414), where passports and flight tickets have to be presented along with the sales receipts. Shopping hours are generally Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800.

Culture

Houston has an impressive 17-block Theater District (website: www.houstontheaterdistrict.org), with a total of 13,000 seats. Only New York has more seats concentrated in one geographic area. Houston is also one of the few US cities with permanent ballet, opera, symphony orchestra and theatre companies.

Tickets for concerts and theatre can be purchased from Ticket Stop (tel: (713) 526 8889; website: www.ticket-stop.com) or the Ticket Center (tel: (800) 828 8959; website: www.ticket-center.com). Ticketmaster (tel: (713) 629 3700; website: www.ticketmaster.com) is another good source for tickets to cultural events around the city.

Up-to-date information on what is on each week is available from the city listings paper, The Houston Press (website: www.houstonpress.com), which is published on Thursdays. The Preview section of the Thursday Houston Chronicle (website: www.houstonchronicle.com) is also full of listings information.

Music: The Houston Grand Opera (tel: (713) 228 6737 or (800) 626 7372; website: www.houstongrandopera.org) is based at the Wortham Theater Center, Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), and has a reputation for presenting groundbreaking new operas. It has also won Grammy, Tony and Emmy awards. The Houston Symphony Orchestra has its home at the Jesse H Jones Hall for the Performing Arts, 615 Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 224 4240; website: www.houstonsymphony.org), and its excellent reputation extends worldwide.

Theatre: The Alley Theatre, 615 Texas Avenue (tel: 713) 228 8421; website: www.alleytheatre.org), is one of the oldest resident professional theatre companies in the country. It began its life literally in an alley in 1947. The Theatre Under The Stars – TUTS (tel: (713) 558 8887; website: www.tuts.com) performs musical theatre and is now the resident company at the Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, 800 Bagby Street (tel: (713) 315 2400; website: www.thehobbycenter.org). The Miller Outdoor Theatre (tel: (713) 284 8352) is an outdoor amphitheatre located in Hermann Park (website: www.milleroutdoortheatre.com), which presents free performances – including ballet, Shakespeare, musicals and the Houston Symphony Orchestra – from March until October.

Dance: The Houston Ballet (tel: (713) 523 6300; website: www.houstonballet.org) also has its home at the lovely Wortham Theater Center, Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), where it puts on lavish dance productions. It is the fifth largest dance company in the USA, with international acclaim following several overseas tours. The company performs classics, as well as cutting edge works by some of the world’s exciting young dance makers.

Film: Mainstream films can be viewed at many cinemas throughout the city, such as Cinemark/Tinseltown-Westchase, 3600 West Sam Houston Parkway South (tel: (713) 952 1881; website: www.cinemark.com), and Magic Johnson Theatre/Northline Mall, I-45 and Crosstimbers Street (tel: (713) 692 5983). Arthouse and independent films can be seen at the Angelika Film Center, 510 Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 333 3456; website: www.angelikafilmcenter.com).

Several films have been filmed in Houston, many using the city’s link with space travel as a theme. These include Armageddon (1998), directed by Michael Bay, and Apollo 13 (1995), directed by Ron Howard. Terms of Endearment (1983), directed by James L Brooks, and Robocop II (1990), directed by Irvin Kershner, were also filmed in Houston.

Literary Notes: For a city its size, Houston does not have any leading literary authors. Interestingly enough, for a city that has a rather hard-nosed commercial feel to it, having grown up on the strength of the oil business, Houston is the home of the Romance Writers of America. The city is the base for many bestselling historical romance authors, including Barbara Dawson Smith, Christina Dodd and Judith McNaught, who each have millions of fans worldwide. Dawson Smith’s books, such as Once Upon A Scandal (1997), are mainly historical romances set in 19th-century Britain. Dodd is a prolific writer whose titles, such as A Well-Favoured Gentleman (1998) and A Well-Pleasured Lady (1997), hint at the nature of her romances. McNaught’s work tends towards the romantic suspense style, with her most recent bestsellers being Night Whispers (1998) and Water’s Edge (1998). The endless list of romance writers in Houston is evidence of a softer side to a city long associated with oil barons and astronauts.

Nightlife

Downtown Houston is a vibrant area that is buzzing day and night with restaurants, bars, clubs, cinemas and theatres. Richmond Avenue (on the west side of the city adjacent to the Galleria) is a particularly happening place. Many bars and clubs generally charge around US$10 and drinks cost US$3-5. Smart dress is expected in most of the clubs and bars, although venues that are more like pubs are fairly casual. Bars are generally open from lunchtime until 0200 in the morning. The minimum drinking age is 21 years.

The Main Event is a weekly party every Friday and Saturday night from 1600 to 0200 when Main Street is closed to traffic between Congress and Capitol Streets and the fun starts with live music, laser light shows and street cafes.

The city listings paper, The Houston Press (website: www.houstonpress.com), is published on Thursdays and has an extensive list of which bars and clubs to go to and what’s on where.

Bars: An upmarket bar, The Dive Lounge at the Downtown Aquarium at 410 Bagby at Memorial is great for pre- or post-dinner drinks, while the Flying Saucer at 705 Main Street at Capitol, boasts a vast number of international beers on tap. The State Bar, Texas Avenue, is a popular and stylish place for a drink, while The Ginger Man, Morningside Drive, has a very relaxed atmosphere and a good selection of beers from around the world. Every city has an Irish bar and Houston is no exception – Kenneally’s Irish Pub on South Shepherd.

Casinos: These are not permitted in Texas – the nearest ones are in New Orleans.

Clubs: HUSH (website: www.hushonline.com) is a vast, dazzling dance club with international DJ’s at 15625 Katy Freeway with a sunken dance floor and a colourful light show all played to loud house, techno, hip hop and latin music. Liquid (website: www.liquidhouston.com), located at 10531 Gulf Freeway, is a funky dance high-energy club with surround sound pumping out hip hop and Latin dance music. The same kind of music can be enjoyed at Roxy (website: www.clubroxy.com) on West Alabama and Rice Avenue. It has an aquarium backdrop and regular foam parties. Belvedere(website: www.belvedereinfo.com) is a smart but relaxed club with regular DJs playing a mix of funk, house and 80’s remix. There are a number of dance halls in the Houston area, including Wild West (website: www.wildwesthouston.com), 6101 Richmond Avenue, which attracts a young crowd to hear its serving of pure country music. Six clubs in one venue, City Streets, Richmond Avenue, comes complete with disco, country music and more, a piano bar and karaoke room.

Live Music: McGonigel’s Mucky Duck (website: www.mcgonigels.com), on Norfolk Street near Shepherd Drive, is one of the best venues for acoustic music and features a variety of folk acts. The Mercury Room (website: www.mercuryroom.com), Prairie Street, is rather upmarket with a wide selection of live music and one of the hottest clubs around. Jazz lovers are drawn to the laid back Red Cat Jazz Café (website: www.redcatjazzcafe.com), Congress Street, while dance music and great views of the city can be enjoyed from the top floor of the Sky Bar (website: www.scottgertner.com) on Montrose Boulevard at Hawthorne. The Big Easy (website: www.bigeasyblues.com) on Kirby Drive in the Rice Village area features live blues music, and is a perennial favourite.

City Statistics

Location: Harris County, Texas, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 2 million (city); 4.7 million (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from first Sunday in April to Saturday before second Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 10°C (50°F).
Average July temp: 26°C (79°F).
Annual rainfall: 884mm (34.8 inches).

Special Events

hp Houston Marathon (website: www.hphoustonmarathon.com), Jan, starting from and finishing at the George R Brown Convention Center
Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo (website: www.hlsr.com), world’s largest livestock, rodeo and horse show, Feb/Mar, Reliant Stadium
Houston Children’s Festival (website: www.houstonchildrensfestival.com), Houston’s official family celebration with games, activities and adventure zones, Apr, Downtown
WorldFest: Houston International Film Festival (website: www.worldfest.org), Apr, throughout the city
Houston International Festival (website: www.ifest.org), performing and visual arts festival, Apr/May, over 20 blocks, Downtown
Galveston Historic Homes Tour (website: www.galvestonhistory.org), weekends in early May, Galveston
Fourth of July (website: www.milleroutdoortheatre.com), classical music culminating in a fireworks display, 4 Jul, Hermann Park
Houston International Jazz Festival (website: www.jazzeducation.org), early Aug, Bayou Place
Houston Shakespeare Festival (website: www.milleroutdoortheatre.com), Aug, Miller Outdoor Theatre, Hermann Park
Fiestas Patrias, street parade celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain, Sep, Downtown
Wings Over Houston (website: www.wingsoverhouston.com), air show, mid-Oct, Ellington Field
International Quilt Festival (website: www.quilts.com), antique and contemporary quilts on display, Oct/Nov, George R Brown Convention Center
Thanksgiving Day Parade, parade with floats and marching bands, 4th Thurs in Nov, through Downtown
Uptown Tree Lighting (website: www.wamuparade.com), parades through the streets followed by a tree lighting ceremony, Thanksgiving Day, 4th Thurs in Nov, Galleria

Cost of Living

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005