World City Guide

Shopping

Istanbul has been a shopper’s paradise for more than 1,500 years, famed as the trading point connecting the Silk Road from China with Europe. Visitors tend to flock to the famous Grand Bazaar in Beyazit (open 0700-1900, Monday to Saturday), with its Ottoman atmosphere and cool covered streets (see Key Attractions). This is a good place for an overview of goods and prices, however better bargains can often be found in the smaller shopping areas of Sultanahmet and Beyazit. Likewise, the famous Spice Bazaar in Eminönü is a must see, if only for the mountains of Turkish delight. Outside of the state-owned markets, most shops stay open until late evening, although the official opening hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1800. Even at midnight, however, there are traders on the main pedestrian thoroughfares selling toys, socks, black market CDs and even antiques laid out on the ground.

As a designated tourist quarter, the Sultanahmet area is competitive in terms of price and variety of specialised goods, such as carpets, kilims, silver jewellery and collector’s items. For a more authentic atmosphere, however, Istanbul’s street markets are well worth a look, like the farmers’ market to the right of the Spice Bazaar, and, on Tuesdays, near Fenerbahçe Stadium, the enormous Kadiköy market (plus a weekend flea market too). On Sundays, the restored harbour area at Ortaköy is taken over by a craft and antique market.

Çukurcuma (along Turnacibasi Sokak, off Istiklal Caddesi) is the heart of the antiques district. Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu has a plethora of clothes, music, and book stores, while the real fashionistas should head to the area of Nisantasi, known as the Champs Elysees of Istanbul, with Gucci, Armani, Hugo Boss and the like, and the fancy department store Beymen. Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side also has a good range of fashion boutiques and department stores. Huge shopping malls tend to be found in the suburbs, such as Galleria, in Ataköy, and Akmerkez, in Etiler.

Typical Turkish gifts include wooden boxes of Turkish delight, delicate albeit cheap tea sets, spice trays and boxes of granulated apple tea. A blue ‘eye’ talisman is highly popular in the city – almost every shop, home and room is equipped with one.

Value-added tax (KDV in Turkish) is at 18%, and it is usually already included on most items, except hotels. Foreign passport holders are exempt in the specially designated tourist shops, which issue a specific invoice that can be presented at customs for refunds. In most cases, however, tax is taken right off the bill. Visitors should always make sure to get an invoice for items that could be considered ‘antique’, as the penalty for smuggling antiquities is very high and customs officials are often poorly informed as to what constitutes an antique.