World City Guide

Nightlife

Beyoglu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. Although it developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul’s huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district’s recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked.

Like most cities, drinks prices vary hugely. The tavernas or meyhanes in Balik Pasaj (Fish Market) are much cheaper than nightclubs or live music venues. It is advisable to check for cover charges at live music venues. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 at weekends. Visitors (especially lone men) are advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be very cautious if a new acquaintance suggests a venue. Many strip shows or belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women who somehow end up at their table all night.

Time Out Istanbul (the same company and format as the London publication) is an English-language monthly magazine with entertainment listings, features and reviews. The Guide Istanbul (website: www.theguideturkey.com) provides up-to-date information on the latest bars and clubs. Turkish Daily News, the English-language daily newspaper, will also have entertainment and listings.

Bars: The centre of nightlife is undoubtedly Beyoglu, with a huge range of bars and clubs. Running off Istiklal Caddesi, the side-street Imam Adnan Sokak has several, like Kaktus and Pia, many with tables outside. Further down Istiklal is Nevizade Sokak, behind Cicek Pasaj, a narrow boisterous street packed with bars, including the noisy, friendly Aslanim and trendy Gizli Bahce. Pano Sarap Evi (Wine Bar) on Mesrutiyet Caddesi is a Greek-style drinking house also selling decent food, with good selection of house wines. Nearer Tunel, the narrow streets around Asmalimescit have countless little bars and seemingly a new one opening every week. Over in the village of Ortakoy, up the Bosphorus, there are a range of upmarket bars and cafes for fashionistas, like Sedir on Mecidiye Köprüsü Sokak, Bobos on Salhane Sokak and Kethuda on Muallim Naci Caddesi. Galata Bridge has several bars, Dersa’adet being one of the liveliest with live local music most nights.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Turkey, due to its association with organised crime.

Clubs: Istanbul’s clubs range between a tiny dancefloor in a Beyoglu pub, to swish terraces overlooking the Bosphorus where revellers go to be seen. The two most famous in the latter group are both in Ortakoy: Reina, 10 Muallim Naci, and Laila, 141-142 Muallim Naci, have been likened to an entertainment emporium, each with several bars, dance floors and restaurants, and packed with celebs, models and millionaires. A little more earthy, Nu Teras, 145-7 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi, has an open terrace in summer with to-die-for views of the city. Karga, 16 Kadife Sokak, Kadikoy, is a chilled bar with local house and techno DJs and visiting bands. Be Club, Kennedy Sokak, Sarayburnu, Eminonu, is the only open-air gay club in town. At weekends, there are several bars around Asmalimescit which have dancing till late.

Live Music: Babylon, Seybender Sokak, in Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon-ist.com), puts on adventurous experimental and jazz concerts with local and international DJs and bands. Venue Maslak, 100 Yil Sanayi Sitesi, Maslak, and Parkorman, Büyükdere Caddesi, Maslak, are both huge open-air venue for bands. Roxy, Aslan Yatagi Sokak, Siraselviler-Taksim, is a popular club, sometimes featuring foreign, Turkish and international pop and rock groups. The highly respected Nardis Jazz Club, 14 Kulebi Sokak, Galata, features live musicians every night, ranging from classic, modern, fusion and ethnic jazz, and also serves food. Pozitif Promotions (website: www.pozitif-ist.com), which runs Babylon, puts on the Akbank Jazz Festival and the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival.

For traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil, or classical romantic singing, especially around Beyoglu.