World City Guide

Istanbul is often described as ‘the crossroads of Europe and Asia’ – a heaving bazaar-city of camels, carpets and caravanserais with an imperial history stretching back for more than 1500 years. This metropolis of 15 million occupies both sides of an east-west land bridge divided by the 32km (20-mile) Bosphorus Strait, which also connects the trade routes of the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and the Mediterranean. As a result, the city has been a jealously guarded centre of world trade since the Byzantine era, and protected by water on three sides, with the natural harbour of the Golden Horn nestled within the city.

Even after Constantinople (as it was previously known) fell to the Ottoman Sultans in 1453, the city remained (and it still is) the trading post for valuable spices and textiles brought via the Silk Road from as far away as China. Its prime position has meant that Istanbul has suffered from frequent sieges, changing from a Hellenic outpost to New Rome, the world’s first Christian capital, and the seat of the world’s biggest Muslim Empire. Its identity today combines that of both eastern and European.

Fragments of this varied architectural inheritance are visible, with stunning Ottoman mosques, classical columns, Byzantine structures, ancient city walls and fine churches. Added to this, rapid industrialisation has drawn thousands of rural poor to the metropolis, resulting in a vast social gap between ‘natives’ and migrants and a growth rate at treble the national average. Its wealthy elite (about 25%) live in the newly built suburbs and enjoy the sophistication of Istanbul’s café society, designer shops, thriving nightlife (over 60% of Istanbullites are under 25 years old) and vibrant contemporary cultural life.

Since early 2000, Turkey was caught in the worst economic crisis since the republic was formed in 1924. The August 1999 earthquake, corruption scandals, global recession, the war in Afghanistan and the war in Iraq, all took their toll, with record high unemployment and inflation. Paradoxically, increased competition and vast devaluation of the Turkish Lira against hard currency saw a huge upswing in tourism over the last few years, as foreigners took advantage of excellent prices. The 2002 elections resulted in a new prime minister (Erdogan, leader of the moderate Islamic AK party) and a more stable economy, with inflation down to around 10% by early 2004.

Istanbul suffered from Islamic terrorism in November 2003, with several simultaneous bomb attacks in the heart of the city, targeting synagogues and western and financial centres, and resulting in dozens of deaths. Turkey recently made long overdue and internationally welcomed improvements to its human rights, hoping for future entry into the EU. In 2004, it signed a protocol banning the death penalty, Turkish state television broadcast its first Kurdish language programme, and four Kurdish activists were freed from jail.

With the buzzing atmosphere of the pedestrian Istiklal Caddesi and its hundreds of bars, cinemas, art galleries, restaurants and bistros, the city seems more funky and cosmopolitan than ever and young people even more keen on cultural expression. Istanbul’s climate is, in the main, a Mediterranean one, although it is affected by climatic variations due to its location on the Marmara Sea and Bosphorus. Summers are hot and winters are mild, with no extreme temperature variations between seasons.

Getting There By Air

Istanbul Atatürk International Airport (IST)
Tel: (0212) 663 6400. Fax: (0212) 663 6250.
Website: www.ataturkairport.com

The rebuilt, state-of-the-art Atatürk International Airport opened in 2000, and is located 23km (15 miles) west of central Istanbul, in Yesilköy. As Turkey’s largest airport, it is the main international gateway to the country, with a capacity of 14 million passengers a year, increasing to 20 million after completion of the extension.

Sabiha Göksen International Airport in Pendik, Kurtköy, opened in early 2001 and has relieved some of the overload at Atatürk Airport, with a small number of charter flights to central Asia, as well as cargo and military planes (see below).

Airport facilities: Facilities include two health clinics with 24-hour service, quarantine and environmental health services, pharmacies, lost and found, banks, post office, baggage service, restaurants, snack bars, tourist information, shops, duty free, hotel reservation, travel agencies, bureaux de change, ATMs and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National, Sixt and Ülger. Business facilities are available.

Transport to the city: The Havas service bus (tel: (0212) 663 0609) to Aksaray and Taksim Square departs from the international and domestic terminals every 30 minutes, 0600-2400 (journey time – 30 minutes). Buses also travel to the Akmerkez shopping centre in Etiler every hour, 0700-2100. Taxis are a little quicker but more expensive. There are now fixed price airport taxis outside arrivals, which accept US$. The new Metro system has regular trains between the airport and Esenler, the main bus station, 0600-2400.

Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW)
Tel: (0216) 585 5000.
Website: www.sgairport.com

The airport is located on the Asian side of Istanbul, 50km (30 miles) east of Taksim, the European centre of Istanbul, 1.5km (1 mile) from the TEM motorway, and 4km (2.5 miles) from Pendik sea bus jetty and train station. This new airport, opened in 2001 and named after a Turkish female combat pilot, has two terminals and its few charter flights mainly serve Germany, Russia and Kazakhstan.

Airport facilities: These include information and help desks, ATMs, a bank, post office, duty-free shops, gift shops, bookshops, restaurants, cafés, a VIP lounge, conference and business facilities and parking. Car hire is provided by AtesTur Rent A Car (tel: (0216) 585 5705; website: www.atestur.com), located in the international terminal (arrivals), just after the baggage reclaim area.

Transport to the city: Buses coincide with flight times, with services to and from Kadikoy, Bostanci and Kucukyali on the Asian side, from where you can pick up other transport. Taxis are available 24 hours a day.

Approximate flight times to Istanbul: From London is 3 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 9 hours; from Los Angeles is 13 hours; from Toronto is 10 hours and 30 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Although the road network throughout Turkey is extensive, with some dual carriageways and numerous three-lane highways, maintenance can be poor and conditions dangerous – Turkey has one of the worst accident rates in the world. European road rules are now better enforced than before, with fines rising yearly, although the great volume of buses and trucks still make driving in Turkey challenging and visitors are advised to drive cautiously.

The route from Europe has been greatly improved by the Istanbul bypass and two Bosphorus bridges which lead to the Istanbul-Ankara express. Turkish road signs conform to the International Protocol on Road Signs, and their Highway Code is similar to Europe’s. The fastest roads are the otoyols (multilane highways), linking Istanbul to several major cities.

The legal driving age in Turkey is 18 years. Drivers bringing cars into Turkey must show their registration documents, passport and international driving licence at the place of entry. If arriving from Europe, visitors must have a Green Card (available from insurance companies) as well as appropriate top-up insurance. A valid driving licence, passport, logbook, insurance certificate and vehicle registration must be carried at all times. Driving is on the right and drivers must give way to the right at all times. The speed limit on motorways is 120kph (70mph), 90kph (55mph) on main roads and 50kph (30mph) in towns. Visiting drivers should also note that traffic lights change abruptly from red to green. Officially, the blood/alcohol limit is 0.05%, however, this is poorly enforced.

British motoring associations have reciprocal agreements with the Turkish Touring and Automobile Association – TTOK (tel: (0212) 282 8140; website: www.turing.org.tr).

Emergency breakdown service:
To report an accident, call Traffic Police on 154. SOS phones are available on the roadsides on motorways.

Routes to the city: The E-80, E-90 and Trans European Motorway (TEM) are the three main roads leading to Turkey from European borders. The main motorway from the Turkish border at Edirne straight through to Istanbul, Ankara and beyond is the E-80, closely paralleled by the somewhat smaller D-100. The route to Antalya follows the E-80 to Izmit and then heads south on the D-650.

Approximate driving times to Istanbul: From Ankara – 7 hours; from Antalya – 12 hours.

Coach services: The safest and most convenient method of internal transport, especially for travel to southern Turkish resorts, is Turkey’s vast system of intercity coaches.

Uluslararasi Istanbul Otogari or International Istanbul Bus Terminal (tel: (0212) 658 0505/0036) in Esenler, about 10km (6 miles) from the city centre, serves all international and domestic lines. Most major intercity companies have free service buses from central Istanbul to the bus station. Most of these shuttle services leave (in good time before the coach scheduled departure time) from Inonu Caddesi and Sirasilveler Caddesi in Taksim, also home to many ticket offices. Visitors can book tickets here any time before departure and most offices take credit cards, with the biggest firms accepting on-line bookings.

Some of the best companies include: Kamil Koç (tel: (0212) 658 2000; website: www.kamilkoc.com.tr), which serves a wide range of destinations throughout Turkey, including Bursa, Ankara, Izmir, Antalya, Bodrum, Fethiye and Canakkale; Ulusöy (tel: (0212) 444 1888; website: www.ulusoy.com.tr), which serves international destinations, Ankara, the Black Sea, as well as Izmir and Antalya; Varan (tel: (0212) 444 8999; website: www.varan.com.tr), which also serves international, western and southern routes. Long journeys are usually made at night, leaving Istanbul between 2200 and 2400 and arriving at the destination in the morning.

Getting There By Rail

Turkish State Railways – TCDD (tel: (0312) 309 0515; website: www.tcdd.gov.tr (no English yet) operates the national railway network, with rolling stock that is slow and lacking air conditioning, although cheap. There are two stations in Istanbul – Sirkeci Station, Ankara Caddesi, near Eminönü on the European side (tel: (0212) 527 0050/0051), and Haydarpasa Station, Haydarpasa Istasyon Caddesi, near Kadiköy on the Asian side (tel: (0216) 336 0475 or 336 2063). Both stations are well equipped with restaurants, newspaper kiosks, waiting rooms and ATMs.

Rail services: Trains bound for Sofia, Belgrade, Bucharest and Budapest (with transfers to Munich and Vienna) leave from Sirkeci Station, departing approximately 2300. Trains for Turkish destinations leave from Haydarpasa Station. There are express trains between major Turkish cities but cheaper rural routes can be painfully slow and crowded. Services to Ankara include: the Bogazici Express and the Baskent Express (journey time of both – 6 hours 30 minutes), and the Fatih Express (journey time – 8 hours). A new Istanbul to Ankara super-express was taken out of service soon after its launch, after a fatal crash in July 2004.

Getting Around

Public Transport
There are numerous private and state-owned city buses (tel: 0800 211 6068 (freephone); website: www.iett.gov.tr/en) in Istanbul. Perpetual traffic jams mean that they are slow, uncomfortable and crowded, with services coming to a virtual halt at midnight. A slick, new underground (metro) system from Taksim to Levent, the city’s busiest business district, opened in 2000 (website: www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr). Hours of operation are 0600-0200.

There are two tramways on the European side. A quick, modern commuter tram runs from Eminönü through Sultanahmet and onto outlying suburbs. It divides at Aksaray, where travellers should change trains to get to Esenler Otogar, the bus station. The other, referred to as the Nostaljik Tramvay, clatters slowly the length of Istiklal Caddesi between Beyoglu and Taksim Square in turn-of-the-century trams. It is connected to Karaköy by the Tünel underground, built in 1877 and touted as the shortest in the world, which runs up and down the steep hill between Karaköy and Istiklal Caddesi. Both the Tünel and the Nostaljik Tramway operate from 0700 to 2130.

The light railway opened in 2002 and stops include the airport, the main bus station and Aksaray. Information on this, plus Metro and tramway, is available (tel: (0212) 568 9970; website: www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr).

Passenger ferries (tel: (0212) 244 4233, website: www.tdi.com.tr) are by far the most pleasant way to travel in Istanbul. These zip back and forth across the waterways and serve many useful destinations. Tokens are bought from dockside kiosks. The primary routes run roughly every 20 minutes, between approximately 0700 and 2300, although the Eminönü-Kadiköy service stops at 2000. There are numerous docks along Eminönü quay, including ferries to Üsküdar, Kadiköy and Besiktas, and car ferries to the Prince’s Islands. Services from Karaköy run to Haydarpasa Station and the residential suburb of Kadiköy.

A collection of small, private operators run the boat service between Üsküdar and Besiktas, which departs every ten minutes during the day and whenever it fills up after midnight. Prices are the same as for the state ferries, although these accept cash only.

Bus, metro, ferry and tram tickets are cheap and usually available near the main stops, either from a kiosk, all main bus and metro stops and ferry terminals or a private seller, who adds about 25% to the price. An akbil (electronic token) is available for purchase in advance, with a small returnable deposit. This is valid for a number of journeys, slightly cheaper and more convenient for buses, ferries, the Tünel, and the metro.

Taxis
Yellow taxis can be hailed almost anywhere in the street. However, it is safest for tourists to order them from a hotel, rather than taking those stationary outside, minimising the chance of being cheated. The night rate (2400-0600) is 50% more than the day rate, so visitors should check the correct rate is on the meter - ‘Gündüz’ means day and ‘gece’ night, which should be digitally displayed. Alternatively, one light indicates the day meter and two lights the night meter. It also pays to have some understanding of Turkish currency before handing over a large note and expecting change, which is a perpetual problem for Istanbul drivers. Be aware of the difference between the 10million and the 1million note when handing over cash. Tips are not expected unless special service has been provided and there is no extra charge for more than one person or for luggage.

The dolmus (shared taxi) is a large, modern yellow mini-van, which runs a prescribed, short, circular route, such as Taksim-Besiktas and Taksim-Nisantasi, or a smaller, rackety blue minibus, which does longer journeys within the city and suburbs. Passengers can hail the latter almost anywhere and it will cram as many standing passengers in as can possibly fit. Payment is in cash, upon boarding, costing a little more than the bus, especially for longer journeys.

There is also a Marine Taxi service available from Bebek, an upmarket Bosphorus village above Arnavütköy.

Driving in the City
Istanbul is home to bad traffic jams and worse driving, while Turkey has 14 times more accidents than the UK – driving is thus not recommended to tourists. With a little improvement since larger fines and better enforcement of road rules, indicators are still rarely used, drivers almost never stop at pedestrian crossings and tailgating is standard, with racing along the coastal strip on the Asian side leading to deaths despite a government campaign. It is not advisable for foreigners to in Istanbul unless strictly necessary.

Car Hire
Hiring a car here is not advised, due to traffic congestion and bad driving. For the adventurous, car hire is provided by Avis (tel: (0212) 663 0646 or (0212) 368 6822; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (212) 663 0858; website: www.budget.com), Europcar (tel: (0212) 663 0746 or 254 7710; website: www.europcar.com) and Hertz (tel: (0212) 663 0807; website: www.hertz.com). Drivers must be over 21 years, have held a licence for at least one year and have a credit card or substantial sum of money to leave as a deposit. Basic insurance is covered in the cost, although visitors should make sure that Collision Damage Waiver is included, as it may well be needed.

Bicycle and Scooter Hire
Cycling in the city is not recommended and this is best left for resort destinations.

Business

Business Etiquette
It is customary for business visitors to address new acquaintances by their first names followed by ‘Bey’ (sir) or ‘Hanim’ (lady). Ottoman society was extremely hierarchical and this system still remains entrenched in Turkish business practice, however, hosts (many of them women) may appear modern. The boss will often have a vast, luxurious office in which to entertain, while employees just outside the door are squashed into cramped spaces and have little authority delegated to them. Secretaries are rarely empowered to take important messages or even know the boss’s schedule, so when telephoning, it is usual for callers to be told to ring back ‘one hour later’ or fax your queries. Once the appropriate contacts have been made, however, business visitors are usually treated with personal warmth and courtesy.

Business meetings could be formal or take place over dinner, and punctuality is always expected. Relations between business equals can be lavishly generous and although one is expected to make at least a gesture of resisting, the boss will almost always insist on taking visitors to the most expensive places in town and footing the entire bill. Turkish people do, however, adore having their photos taken with visiting dignitaries, even more so if it appears in print somewhere, so visitors should bring a camera. When visiting people’s homes, flowers or sweets are more appropriate than alcohol, as the host might not drink. If they do drink, however, good whisky is a sure-fire hit.

Business dress is the same as in Europe or North America, although women are advised to wear business suits with skirts below the knee. Visiting businesswomen will usually be treated with the same respect as male colleagues. However, women should be aware that after-dinner invitations to accompany the men to a revue bar or belly-dancing club in fact means going to an upmarket brothels, and a woman’s company will be resented. Women are advised to clarify the nature of the establishment before going.

Business hours are technically 0900-1700, Monday to Friday, although many employees are still expected to put in a ten-hour working day.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
It takes time to see Istanbul properly, since examples of its 2000-year-old past can be difficult to find amid the chaos of the present. Most visitors go straight to the Sultanahmet district, the oldest part of the city, where there are at least some remnants of Byzantine Constantinople, such as Haghia Sophia, among the splendours of Imperial Ottoman architecture, such as Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque. Sultanahmet is, however, a ‘tourist quarter’ with the usual irritations of badgering touts and crowds of people and it is not the only historic part of the city.

The city centre, including the areas referred to as ‘the old city’ and ‘the new city’, which are separated by the estuary of the Golden Horn, is located on the European side of Istanbul, on the western side of the Bosphorus Strait. Northwest of Sultanahmet lies the area of Beyazit, focused around the famous Kapali Çarsi (Covered or Grand Bazaar), while directly north from Sultanahmet, following the tramway, visitors will quickly hit the hustle and bustle of the Eminönü docks on the Golden Horn. From here, across the Galata Bridge, the area beginning at Karaköy port, running up to the landmark Galata Tower and then up through Beyoglu and Taksim, was for centuries the designated residence of foreigners, including Italian, Greek and Levantine traders. The Tünel climbs the hill from Karaköy port to the start of Istiklal Caddesi, a mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare leading up to Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul and home to much of its nightlife.

Mosques are almost always open to visitors, outside prayer times, although shorts and sleeveless clothes should not be worn. Shoes are left outside and women will be loaned a shawl to covers arms and hair. Visitors should not take photographs of women wearing the traditional black ‘çarsaf’, as this is forbidden. Parents of little boys in their full circumcision regalia will usually allow photos, although a small gift of money to the child is traditional.

Istanbul’s museum system is confusing, as each is run by different ministries, municipal authorities or private owners. Entrance charges or opening hours can change suddenly. Check with tourist offices for up-to-date opening times and prices.

Tourist Information
Tourist Information (Turizm Danisma Burosu)
Sultanahmet Meydani
Tel: (0212) 518 8754 or (0212) 518 1802.
Website: www.turizm.gov.tr or www.istanbul.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300.

Good free city maps are available. Other offices are located at Atatürk Airport (International arrivals), Sirkeci Railway Station, Karaköy port and the Hilton Hotel Arcade (Elmadag). Passes There are no tourist passes currently available.

Key Attractions

Haghia Sophia
Haghia Sophia, known as Aya Sofya and translated as ‘Church of Divine Wisdom’, is considered the world’s finest example of Byzantine architecture. Consecrated in 537AD, its vast dome rises to 56m (183ft), designed to appear suspended in space and thus representative of heaven. So impressed was Mehmet the Conqueror that when he took the city in 1453, he dedicated it as a mosque, and it remained so until declared a museum when the Turkish Republic was founded. Highlights include Byzantine mosaics and huge Ottoman circular shields containing calligraphy of Koranic verses. The museum is now divided into two parts – the church and the mosaic gallery – each requiring a different ticket and often a long queue.

Sultanahmet, in front of Topkapi Palace
Tel: (0212) 522 1750.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1630.
Admission charge.

Topkapi Palace
Originally built as a summer residence and the seat of government, Topkapi Palace was home to harem, state administration and military personnel in the 16th century, with around 3,000 residents. Sultans abandoned it for Dolmabahçe Palace in 1855, but many of the sumptuous jewels of the original treasury (including the Topkapi Dagger, and gold-plated throne of Murat III), the armoury, silk ceremonial robes, Chinese ceramics and the collection of manuscripts, all convey the old Ottoman decadence. The prison-like harem, which once housed up to 300 concubines, is only open to guided tours and requires a separate ticket. The palace is always crowded and has become expensive. To avoid lengthy queues, pre-booked tickets are recommended.

Seraglio Point, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 512 0480.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0900-1730 (winter); Wed-Mon 0900-1900 (summer).
Admission charge.

Kapali Carsisi (Covered or Grand Bazaar)
The famous and vast bazaar is the best known of Istanbul’s markets. It was instated shortly after the 1493 Conquest and contained the slave market, as well as the hans, or caravanserais of old, where Silk Road traders could rest themselves and their camels, as well as sell their goods. While the ornate ceilings and labyrinth-like layout still hark back to the past, these days the vast number of stalls (around 4,000 of them, in 60 streets) sell mainly tourist-friendly goods, including carpets, gold, leather and ceramics. The complex also contains two mosques, money change offices, a police station, cafes and an information point. Haggling is essential at most stalls.

Beyazit
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0700-1900.
Admission: Free.

Misir Carsisi (Egyptian or Spice Market)
This L-shaped market, facing the Golden Horn, was built in the 17th century as an extension to Yeni Camii (New Mosque), and financed by the money paid as duty on Egyptian goods. Originally famed for its exotic spices and oils from the Orient, these days it also sells dried fruits, caviar and Turkish delight, as well a plethora of souvenirs. Its surrounding streets are a hub of commercial activity, with local craftspeople, traders and a great selection of cheeses and olives.

Eminonu
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1900.
Admission: Free.

Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
The Blue Mosque was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmet (1603-1617), as Islam’s answer to Haghia Sophia, and remains the symbol and centre of religious demonstrations. Blue Iznik tiles dominate the interior, and blue light shines through more than 250 windows. The interior is stunning, from vast central dome designed to lift all eyes heavenward, the latticework-covered Imperial Loge and the mihrab (prayer niche) containing a piece of sacred black stone from Mecca. At dusk during summer there is a Son et Lumière show. The Imperial Pavilion also contains a state-run Carpet Museum with Usak, Bergama and Konya samples, dating between the 16th and 19th centuries.

Hippodrome, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 518 1330 (carpet museum).
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours, except during some prayer times; Carpet Museum: Tues-Sat 0900-1600.
Admission: Free.

Yerebatan Sarayi (Basilica Cistern)
Sometimes referred to as the Sunken Palace, the Basilica Cistern was the reservoir for water required for the Byzantine Great Palace, and thought to date back to AD532. This huge atmospheric structure, measuring 140m (460ft) by 70m (230ft), still contains a few feet of water, over which wooden walkways have been constructed. Many of the 336 columns supporting the cathedral-like ceiling have been recycled from pre-Christian temples – such as the Medusa heads that are used as column bases, pilfered from the Temple of Apollo in Didyma (Didim). The cistern was used as a film set for the James Bond film, From Russia With Love (1963).

Yerebatan Caddesi, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 522 1259.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

Suleymaniye Mosque
Although fewer tourists make it here than to the Blue Mosque, this is even grander and more peaceful, and one of the finest creations by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The huge 53m-high dome and pencil-slim minarets from each corner of the courtyard are an exquisite example of symmetry and elegance. Built in the 1550s, the site also contains the tombs of Sinan, Sultans Suleyman II and Ahmet II decorated with intricate tiles, the original apartments of the mosque astronomer, charitable foundations, caravanserai and fountain, all set around a tranquil courtyard. There are several outdoor tea-houses in a row behind the mosque.

Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi, Suleymaniye
Tel: (0212) 513 3608.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630. Closed to non-Muslims during prayer times.
Admission: Free (Donation requested).

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower)
The balcony at the top of Galata Tower has an unforgettable view of the city. Built in 1348 by the Genoese as part of their fortifications, this distinctive 62m (205ft) tower with conical roof is visible from most of the city. It was converted to cater for tourism, which thankfully includes a lift, plus a nightclub and restaurant on the top floors. On a clear day, it is possible to see the main monuments of Istanbul and even Princes’ Islands. There is a charming tea garden at the foot.

Buyuk Hendek Sokak, Tunel
Tel: (0212) 245 3263.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900.
Admission charge.

Taksim Square and Istiklal Caddesi
The square is the nucleus of Istanbul’s modern European side, which many tourists unfortunately miss. In the south-west corner is the Monument of Independence, where the busy Istiklal Caddesi starts and cuts through Beyoglu area. This 1.5km (1 mile) pedestrianised boulevard is lined with shops, cinemas, markets and restaurants, and crowded especially at night. Its 19th-century European consulates, churches and ornate buildings are evidence that Beyoglu was once the centrepiece for an Art Nouveau Belle Époque, and later the hang-out for bohemian artists and intellectuals. Highlights include the stained glass at the entrance to Cicek Pasaj (Flower Passage), the imposing Galatasaray Lisesi (High School) and various contemporary art galleries (free).

Beyoglu
Opening hours: Most shops open till 2100, later on Fri-Sat.
Admission: Free.

Great Palace Mosaic Museum
The small Mosaic Museum, tucked behind the Blue Mosque amid an alleyway full of tourist shops, contains all that is left of the magnificent flooring of Bucoleon Palace. This was the Great Palace of the Byzantine emperors, which once covered the area from the Hippodrome to Haghia Sophia and down to the harbour. Discovered in the 1950s, these mosaics depict mythological and hunting scenes, including that of two men subduing a tiger. They are thought to date from the reign of Justinian (527-565AD) or even earlier and to have been part of the walkway between the royal apartments and the imperial seats (kathisma) at the Hippodrome.

Arasta Bazaar, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 518 1205.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0930-1630.
Admission charge.

Turk ve Esleri Müzesi (Turkish and Islamic Art Museum)
Originally the 16th-century palace of Süleyman the Magnificent’s most able Grand Vizier, Ibrahim Pasha, this museum contains more than 40,000 items dating between the seventh to the 19th century. Its famous carpet display contains Turkish carpets depicting Holbein paintings and fragments of 13th-century Selçuk rugs. Further highlights include Ottoman Koran cases and stands, illuminated manuscripts and tiles, and the basement contains an exhibition of the evolution of the Turkish house – from nomadic tents to 19th-century palaces.

Hippodrome 46, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 518 1805.
Website: www.tiem.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700 (winter); Tues-Sun 0900-1730 (summer).
Admission charge.

Archeoloji Müzeleri (Archaeological Museums)
Istanbul’s Archeology Museums are located in three separate buildings, once part of the Topkapi Palace complex. The main building houses the famous fourth-century Alexander sarcophagus discovered in Lebanon, as well as the facade of the Temple to Athena from Assos, Byzantine mosaics and sarcophagi. The interior of the Çinili Kösk (Tiled Pavilion), built in 1472, is covered in Iznik tiles and contains the 14th-century royal blue Karaman Mihrab (prayer niche). The Museum of the Ancient Orient includes the Treaty of Kadesh, drawn up between the Egyptians and Hittites in 1269BC, plus a magnificent frieze of a bull from Babylon.

Topkapi Palace, Seraglio Point, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 520 7740.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1630; subject to change, due to understaffing.
Admission charge.

Yildiz Park
Rising above the area of Besiktas, Yildiz is a welcome relief from the noise of the city, with woodland and landscaped gardens. Sultan Abdul Hamit built them for the Ciragan Palace (now a 5-star hotel over the main road) where Sultans strolled and hunted since the 17th-century, now more popular with courting couples and picnicking families, busiest at weekends. At the top are Malta Kosk and Cadir Kosk, two attractive 19th-century pavilions originally part of the palace, whose guests included Winston Churchill and Charles de Gaulle, and now operating as restaurants and cafés. The park also houses Yildiz Palace Museum, Imperial Porcelain Factory and City Museum.

Yildiz Park, Ciragan Caddesi, Besiktas.
Tel: (0212) 258 90 20.
Opening hours: Daily, dawn till dusk.
Entry: Free for pedestrians; charge for taxis.

Further Distractions

Further Distractions
Eyüp
This religious district, about 8km (5 miles) from Sultanahmet, is best known for its huge Ottoman cemetery with stunning views over the Golden Horn. It is crowned with the famous Pierre Loti Café (tel: (0212) 616 2344) – best enjoyed for alfresco tea. The walk from the village is delightful, from the highly revered Eyup Mosque, past market stalls selling religious books and headscarves, and up the hill through the ancient tombstones.

Dolmabahçe Palace
The Ottomans built Dolmabahçe Palace in the mid-19th with kitsch extravagance. Although it is poor condition, highlights include the crystal staircase, royal bathroom and the alleged world’s heaviest chandelier. Entrance (with high ticket price) is only by guided tour, either through the ceremonial chambers (recommended) or through the harem and concubine’s quarters.

Dolmabahçe Palace, Besiktas
Tel: (0212) 236 9000.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun; 0900-1500 (winter), 0900-1800 (summer).
Admission charge.

Divan Edebiyati Müzesi (Whirling Dervish Monastery)
The whirling dervishes, a mystic sect only nominally connected to Islam were banned in the early days of the Republic, so this monastery is officially the Museum of Classical Ottoman Poetry and Musical Instruments. Dervishes still perform their ritual dance (sema) on the last Sunday of each month and more often in summer, for a small charge.
Galip Dede Sokak 15
Tel: (0212) 243 5045 or 245 4141.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1630.
Admission charge.

Kariye Muzesi (Kariye Museum)
Originally an 11th-century church, this contains Istanbul’s finest Byzantine mosaics, as well as superb 14th-century religious frescoes. Although converted to a mosque after the Conquest, the mosaics were merely whitewashed over, and been preserved for display in what is now a secular museum.

Kariye Camii Sokak, Edirnekapi
Tel: (0212) 631 9241.
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 0930-1630.
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
While Istanbul is a driver’s nightmare, it is a walker’s paradise. One recommended self-guided walking route is from the Kariye Museum, along the city walls, to the Golden Horn, where visitors can see the little visited remains of the last Byzantine Palace, Blachernae, including its grim dungeons. Jewish visitors might enjoy the back streets of the Galata Tower area, which contain numerous synagogues and other religious buildings.

Istanbul Walks, Eski Bagdat Caddesi 50 (tel: (0216) 489 6031/32; website: www.istanbulwalks.com) offers a choice of walks lasting around two-and-a-half-hours, including classic sights around Sultanahmed, around the Bazaar, and Galata and Pera. Most tours depart from the Tourist Information Office on Sultanahmet Square. Reservations recommended.

Bus Tours
Details of bus tour operators with English speaking guides are available at most hotels. In addition to a hop-on hop-off bus service, Plan Tours (tel: (0212) 230 2272 or 234 7777; website: www.plantours.com) arranges city sightseeing tours, including Jewish Heritage tours. Sites visited include the Hagia Sofia, Blue Mosque, Hippodrome and Grand Bazaar. Transfers to and from hotels (European side only) is provided.

Fez Travel (tel: (0212) 516 9024 or (0870) 742 4173 in the UK; website: www.feztravel.com), which is geared to backpackers, organises longer sightseeing trips for small groups to ‘off the beaten track’ locations. A three-night Istanbul City Break includes two full days of sightseeing, the services of an English-speaking guide, all entrance fees and bed and breakfast accommodation.

Boat Tours
A full-day Bosphorus river cruise with lunch, including a visit to Dolmabahce Palace and other sites along the way, is offered by Plan Tours (tel: (0212) 230 2272 or 234 7777; website: www.plantours.com). During the summer, they also run private boat tours of the Bosphorus, as well as dinner cruises. Transfers to and from hotels (European-side hotels only) are available.

In summer, tourist cruises of the Bosphorus, operated by the Turkish Maritime Organisation, Türkiye Denizcilik Ýþletmeleri (tel: (0212) 522 0045, website: www.tdi.com.tr), leave Eminönü pier three at 1030, 1245 and 1415, stopping at Besiktas 15 minutes later. The ferry makes its way up the Bosphorus, passing the city’s lovely wooden ‘yalis’ or seaside mansions, up to the old sea gates at Anadolu Kavagi. The trip takes two hours in each direction, with the option of stopping for lunch at the fish restaurants of Anadolu Kavagi. Both single and return tickets are available.

Excursions

Prince’s Islands: These nine small islands in the Sea of Marmara, 12km (7 miles) southeast of Istanbul, were once used to keep unwanted heirs to the Ottoman throne in isolated luxury, as well as the exile Leon Trotsky after he was expelled from the Soviet Union in 1929. Today, however, they offer a taste of the past with horse-drawn carriage tours and a ban on cars. Commuter ferries run to four of the islands and the rest are privately owned, uninhabited or military bases. Büyükada is the largest and has beautiful wooden mansions and hotels, and a cool pine forest for picnics. A cobblestone path from Karacabey Bay leads to the ancient Ayios Nikolaos monastery; Heybeliada was the centre of an old Greek community, with six churches and monasteries, one dating to 1431; while Bürgazada has a Greek monastery on a cliff overlooking the sea. Ferries run to the islands from Sirkeci and Bostanci, taking about 50 minutes to reach the first island and 15 minutes between the other three. Faster sea-buses, operated by IDO (Tel: (0212) 444 4436; website: www.ido.com.tr), also run about three times a day from Kabatas, near Dolmabahçe Palace.

Termal: Located 38km (24 miles) southeast of Istanbul, Termal is a natural hot (thermal) spring, famous as a spa since Roman times. After a 20-minute sea-bus journey from Kabatas to Yalova, operated by IDO (Tel: (0212) 444 4436; website: www.ido.com.tr) and running five times per day, it is a short bus (Tasköprü-Termal no 4), dolmus or taxi ride to the main complex, which has a historic Turkish bath (hamam), open and covered pools, private rooms and several hotels and restaurants. The spa is open daily 0900-1700. The Yalova Provincial Department of Tourism, Yali Caddesi 33, Yalova (tel: (0226) 813 8507; www.phnetfi/public/ergene/01/yalova.htm) provides further information.

Sport

Shopping

Istanbul has been a shopper’s paradise for more than 1,500 years, famed as the trading point connecting the Silk Road from China with Europe. Visitors tend to flock to the famous Grand Bazaar in Beyazit (open 0700-1900, Monday to Saturday), with its Ottoman atmosphere and cool covered streets (see Key Attractions). This is a good place for an overview of goods and prices, however better bargains can often be found in the smaller shopping areas of Sultanahmet and Beyazit. Likewise, the famous Spice Bazaar in Eminönü is a must see, if only for the mountains of Turkish delight. Outside of the state-owned markets, most shops stay open until late evening, although the official opening hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1800. Even at midnight, however, there are traders on the main pedestrian thoroughfares selling toys, socks, black market CDs and even antiques laid out on the ground.

As a designated tourist quarter, the Sultanahmet area is competitive in terms of price and variety of specialised goods, such as carpets, kilims, silver jewellery and collector’s items. For a more authentic atmosphere, however, Istanbul’s street markets are well worth a look, like the farmers’ market to the right of the Spice Bazaar, and, on Tuesdays, near Fenerbahçe Stadium, the enormous Kadiköy market (plus a weekend flea market too). On Sundays, the restored harbour area at Ortaköy is taken over by a craft and antique market.

Çukurcuma (along Turnacibasi Sokak, off Istiklal Caddesi) is the heart of the antiques district. Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu has a plethora of clothes, music, and book stores, while the real fashionistas should head to the area of Nisantasi, known as the Champs Elysees of Istanbul, with Gucci, Armani, Hugo Boss and the like, and the fancy department store Beymen. Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side also has a good range of fashion boutiques and department stores. Huge shopping malls tend to be found in the suburbs, such as Galleria, in Ataköy, and Akmerkez, in Etiler.

Typical Turkish gifts include wooden boxes of Turkish delight, delicate albeit cheap tea sets, spice trays and boxes of granulated apple tea. A blue ‘eye’ talisman is highly popular in the city – almost every shop, home and room is equipped with one.

Value-added tax (KDV in Turkish) is at 18%, and it is usually already included on most items, except hotels. Foreign passport holders are exempt in the specially designated tourist shops, which issue a specific invoice that can be presented at customs for refunds. In most cases, however, tax is taken right off the bill. Visitors should always make sure to get an invoice for items that could be considered ‘antique’, as the penalty for smuggling antiquities is very high and customs officials are often poorly informed as to what constitutes an antique.

Culture

Istanbul’s cultural activities, both traditional and contemporary, is rich and varied, although not well publicised. Matching the city’s exploding youth population, there is a growing number of festivals, galleries, new music venues and film centres and, within the last decade, Turkish artists have begun to make an international impact. There are now a number of independent record companies in the city, releasing experimental works that combine Turkish traditional artists with contemporary groups and new venues where this new music is showcased. In particular, however, the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Art, the Istanbul Kültür ve Sanat Merkezi or IKSV (tel: (0212) 334 0700; website: www.istfest.org), puts on an impressive series of international festivals. The French Culture Centre, Istiklal Caddesi (tel: (0212) 334 8740) often has French film screenings, and dance performances.

Tickets can be hard to come by for the popular film and jazz festivals, so visitors should book well in advance for any events at existing concert venues, such as the Open Air Theatre, Açik Hava Tiyatrosu, Takisla Caddesi, Congress Valley, in Harbiye (tel: (0212) 296 6006), and the Ataturk Cultural Centre or Atatürk Kultur Merkezi, Taksim Square, Taksim (tel: (0212) 251 5600). The annual Contemporary Artist Istanbul Exhibition celebrates the work of young local artists, many of whom progress to being internationally renowned. Akbank Culture and Arts Centre, 14-19 Istiklal Caddesi (tel: (0212) 252 3500/01; website: www.akbanksanat.com).

The private sector has helped take the load off Istanbul’s government-supported venues, by opening specialised arts events and private galleries, many of which can be seen on Istiklal Caddesi and the Taksim area. Among the most adventurous is the Borusan Center for Culture and Art, 421 Istiklal Caddesi (tel: (0212) 292 0655; website: www.borusansanat.com), which alternates ‘conceptual’ Turkish and international exhibitions, plus an enormous music library and concert space. The Aksanat Cultural Centre, Istiklal Caddesi, near Taksim Square (tel: (0212) 252 3500), offers recorded jazz and classical music on a large laser-disc screen, as well as painting and sculpture exhibitions and drama.

Tickets for most cultural events are available at Biletix outlets (website: www.biletix.com), located at Ada bookshop on Istiklal Caddesi, Vakkorama, MMMigros supermarkets and Raksotek record stores.

The Guide Istanbul (website: www.theguideturkey.com) provides up-to-date information on cultural events and performance in the city. An excellent source of information is also available at www.istanbulcityguide.com/arts/index.htm. Time Out Istanbul and Turkish Daily News also have listings.

Music: The most reliable guide to music events in the city is fly posters and banners along Istiklal Caddesi. The 900-seat Atatürk Cultural Centre or AKM (see above), is shared by the State Opera and Ballet, the State Theatre and the State Symphony Orchestra, as well as the Istanbul Festivals. The most stunning venue in the city is the Byzantine church of Haghia Eirene, in the grounds of the Topkapi Palace complex – now a museum and used by the IKSV (see above) during the Classical Music Festival in June. The most popular summer venue is the Open Air Theatre, Açik Hava Tiyatrosu (see above), which hosts Jazz Festival events and other contemporary concerts. The indoor Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall, Darülbedayi Caddesi, Conference Valley, Harbiye (tel: (0212) 240 5012 or 231 5497/8 or 248 0863; website: www.crrks.org), is another popular venue for concerts and exhibitions. The International Istanbul Music Festival, International Bosphorus Festival, International Istanbul Jazz Festival and Rumeli Hisari Concerts are spread out throughout the summer.

Theatre: Plays by international and Turkish playwrights are frequently staged in Istanbul, many in smaller venues off Istiklal Caddesi, while the more commercial extravaganzas (such as during the Istanbul International Theatre Festival usually held in May) are at the Atatürk Kültür Merkezi (see above), sometimes with digital subtitling in English.

Dance: The Turkish State Opera and Ballet performs at the Atatürk Kültür Merkezi (see above) and there are also dance performances at the indoor Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall, Darülbedayi Caddesi, Conference Valley, Harbiye (tel: (0212) 240 5012 or 231 5497/8 or 248 0863; website: www.crrks.org). There are also performances in galleries and smaller venues; check the press for details. There are dance performances during the International Istanbul Theatre Festival.

Film: Foreign films, mostly from Hollywood, outnumber Turkish domestic output and generally show in their original language with Turkish subtitles. Most of the city’s cinemas are in Istiklal Caddesi, in Beyoglu. Visitors should check the Turkish Daily News for listings or simply comb the streets. The Alkazar Cinema Center, Istiklal Caddesi 179 (tel: (0212) 293 2466/67 or 249 7297), Fitas, Istiklal Caddesi 24/26 (tel: (0212) 249 9361), Emek, Istikalal Caddesi Yesilcam Sokak 5 (tel: (0212) 293 8439), and Beyoglu, Istiklal Caddesi Halep Pasaji 140 (tel: (0212) 251 3240), are good bets, showing European, Turkish, and Hollywood films. Mega cinema complexes are only found at huge shopping malls in the outer suburbs. Beyoglu cinemas also participate in the International Film Festival, usually taking place in April, and sometimes screen lesser-known international films.

Turkish films have made a recent impact on world cinema, especially Uzak (2002) and Hamam (1997), both filmed in Istanbul and winning several international awards. Uzak details the ponderous tale of two cousins, photographer Mahmut, who has his style severely cramped with the arrival of his luckless, uncouth younger cousin Yusuf from his village, seeking work. Hamam is about a couple, Francesco and Marta, who run a small design company in Rome. When Francesco's long forgotten Aunt Anita dies in Istanbul, he travels there to look after the sale of the hamam he inherited from her. There he meets the family running the hamam, gets attracted to one of its members (as well as falling for the whole Turkish atmosphere) and he decides not to sell the hamam after all.

Literary Notes: Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, the wife of the British Ambassador to Turkey in 1716-18, was a well-known socialite at Pera and openly admired the sensuality of Ottoman daily life. She was an avid correspondent, describing life in the city to her friends in England, including Alexander Pope. Her Letters from Constantinople were published posthumously in 1763 and give a fascinating insight into upper-class 18th-century Istanbul.

Many writers have described the filth, the narrowness of the streets, the lack of women in evidence and the quantity of stray dogs. Those things have certainly changed but the Turks’ love of bargaining and shopping has not, nor has the difficulty of finding grave space, seeing as cremation is forbidden by Islam. ‘It is as if the Turks are entirely absorbed in buying goods, selling goods and dying,’ noted French writer Francois Rene de Chateaubrian in 1806. American satirist Mark Twain (1835-1910) found even Haghia Sophia dark and dirty and the dance of the Mevlevi dervishes ‘the most barbaric manifestation I have seen to this day’. During the same period, naval officer and romantic writer Pierre Loti was among many Orientalist Europeans disgusted by the fashion for Art Nouveau in Istanbul at the turn of the century, while Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express (1934) was written when she stayed at the Pera Palas Hotel. The work of exiled Communist poet Nazim Hikmet (d 1963) is still widely read and admired, as are the novels of Yasar Kemal (b 1922).

Istanbul’s most famous contemporary writer is Orhan Pamuk, whose books, White Castle (1985), Black Book (1990), The New Life (1994), My Name is Red (2001), and Snow (2003) have been translated worldwide. Pamuk is being followed by younger writers, such as Latife Tekin, known for her magic realism in novels such as Tales from the Garbage Hills (1984), Swords of Ice (1989) and Signs of Love (1995).

Nightlife

Beyoglu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. Although it developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul’s huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district’s recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked.

Like most cities, drinks prices vary hugely. The tavernas or meyhanes in Balik Pasaj (Fish Market) are much cheaper than nightclubs or live music venues. It is advisable to check for cover charges at live music venues. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 at weekends. Visitors (especially lone men) are advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be very cautious if a new acquaintance suggests a venue. Many strip shows or belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women who somehow end up at their table all night.

Time Out Istanbul (the same company and format as the London publication) is an English-language monthly magazine with entertainment listings, features and reviews. The Guide Istanbul (website: www.theguideturkey.com) provides up-to-date information on the latest bars and clubs. Turkish Daily News, the English-language daily newspaper, will also have entertainment and listings.

Bars: The centre of nightlife is undoubtedly Beyoglu, with a huge range of bars and clubs. Running off Istiklal Caddesi, the side-street Imam Adnan Sokak has several, like Kaktus and Pia, many with tables outside. Further down Istiklal is Nevizade Sokak, behind Cicek Pasaj, a narrow boisterous street packed with bars, including the noisy, friendly Aslanim and trendy Gizli Bahce. Pano Sarap Evi (Wine Bar) on Mesrutiyet Caddesi is a Greek-style drinking house also selling decent food, with good selection of house wines. Nearer Tunel, the narrow streets around Asmalimescit have countless little bars and seemingly a new one opening every week. Over in the village of Ortakoy, up the Bosphorus, there are a range of upmarket bars and cafes for fashionistas, like Sedir on Mecidiye Köprüsü Sokak, Bobos on Salhane Sokak and Kethuda on Muallim Naci Caddesi. Galata Bridge has several bars, Dersa’adet being one of the liveliest with live local music most nights.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Turkey, due to its association with organised crime.

Clubs: Istanbul’s clubs range between a tiny dancefloor in a Beyoglu pub, to swish terraces overlooking the Bosphorus where revellers go to be seen. The two most famous in the latter group are both in Ortakoy: Reina, 10 Muallim Naci, and Laila, 141-142 Muallim Naci, have been likened to an entertainment emporium, each with several bars, dance floors and restaurants, and packed with celebs, models and millionaires. A little more earthy, Nu Teras, 145-7 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi, has an open terrace in summer with to-die-for views of the city. Karga, 16 Kadife Sokak, Kadikoy, is a chilled bar with local house and techno DJs and visiting bands. Be Club, Kennedy Sokak, Sarayburnu, Eminonu, is the only open-air gay club in town. At weekends, there are several bars around Asmalimescit which have dancing till late.

Live Music: Babylon, Seybender Sokak, in Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon-ist.com), puts on adventurous experimental and jazz concerts with local and international DJs and bands. Venue Maslak, 100 Yil Sanayi Sitesi, Maslak, and Parkorman, Büyükdere Caddesi, Maslak, are both huge open-air venue for bands. Roxy, Aslan Yatagi Sokak, Siraselviler-Taksim, is a popular club, sometimes featuring foreign, Turkish and international pop and rock groups. The highly respected Nardis Jazz Club, 14 Kulebi Sokak, Galata, features live musicians every night, ranging from classic, modern, fusion and ethnic jazz, and also serves food. Pozitif Promotions (website: www.pozitif-ist.com), which runs Babylon, puts on the Akbank Jazz Festival and the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival.

For traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil, or classical romantic singing, especially around Beyoglu.

City Statistics

Location: Northwest Turkey.
Country dialling code: 90.
Population: 15,000,000 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two or three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 5°C (41°F).
Average July temp: 28°C (82°F).
Annual rainfall: 654mm (25.8 inches).

Special Events

New Year’s Day, national holiday, 1 Jan, throughout the city
Kurban Bayram (Feast of the Sacrifice), religious holiday, 10 Dhu al Hijja (12th month of Hijra calandar) Feb until 2003, throughout the city
International Film Festival, Apr, most cinemas in Beyoglu
National Independence and Children’s Day, national holiday, 23 Apr, throughout the city
International Theatre Festival, May, Atatürk Kültür Merkezi, Taksim
Fujifilm World Music Days, various venues, May
Conquest Week Celebrations, the run-up to Atatürk’s Commemoration Day, 13-19 May, throughout the city
Atatürk’s Commemoration Day, national holiday, 19 May, throughout the city
International Istanbul Music Festival, Jun, various venues
International Bosphorus Festival, Jun, various venues
International Jazz Festival, Jul, various venues
Rumeli Hisari Concerts, Jul, Rumeli Hisarý Museum
Zafer Bayram (Victory Day), national holiday, 30 Aug, throughout the city
International Istanbul Biennale, biannual art festival Sep-Nov, various venues
Cumhuriyet Bayram (Republic Day), national holiday celebrating Atatürk’s proclamation of the Turkish Republic in 1923, 29 Oct, throughout the city
Intercontinental Istanbul Eurasia Marathon (website: www.istanbulmarathon.org), Oct, Üsküdar to Taksim
Akbank Jazz Festival (website: www.akbankcaz.com), early Oct, Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall, Babylon and Venue Maslak
Efes Pilsen Blues Festival, mid Oct, Lütfi Kırdar UKSS, Anadolu Salonu
Istanbul Arts Fair, late Oct-early Nov, Tuyap Fair and Congress Centre
Ramadan, Muslim Holy Month of Fasting, with the end of the fast marked by a three-day national holiday, Ramadan (ninth month of Hijra calendar), Oct 2004/2005, throughout the city
Seker Bayram (Sugar Holiday or Eid Al Fitr), religious holiday, 1 Shawwal (10th month of Hijra calendar), Nov 2004/2005, throughout the city

Cost of Living

With Turkey’s rising inflation since 1981, increasingly larger denominated banknotes have been put into circulation nearly every two years, with the highest note currently 20 million (worth approximately US$15 in 2004) – the highest in the world. This has had a negative effect on the credibility of the currently as well as causing technical problems. With inflation finally lowering and a more stable market since 2003, a re-denomination of the Turkish Lira came into effect in January 2005. One unit of the New Turkish Lira (Yeni Turk Lirasi, currency code TRY) is equal to 1,000,000 Turkish Lira, with a sub-unit of 100 New Kurush to one New Turkish Lira.

1 Turkish New Lire (TRY1) = £0.42; US$0.73; C$0.85; A$0.96; ¬0.61
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005