World City Guide

Excursions

For a Half Day

Bethlehem: Situated just 12km (7 miles) south of central Jerusalem, the ancient biblical town of Bethlehem, which lies just across the ‘Green Line’ in the West Bank, is an obvious, satisfying excursion from the city. Unfortunately, security considerations have made it difficult and sometimes dangerous to visit during the last two years. It is very important to check the current situation before travelling to the town. Visitors should keep abreast through English-language daily newspapers, such as The Jerusalem Post (website: www.jpost.com), but also check with locals before planning a trip.

Bethlehem is known worldwide as the birthplace of Jesus Christ, born, according to the New Testament, in a food trough in a cattle shed. However, Bethlehem also appears in the scriptures nearly 2,000 years before Jesus, as the burial place of Rachel, wife of Jacob. The events of the Book of Ruth took place here, too, and this was also the birthplace of King David. The town is therefore of great importance to Christians and Jews alike, and many of the Arabs living here are Christians rather than Muslim. In the fourth century, a cave was selected as the exact place where Jesus was born and the Church of the Nativity erected over the site. The ornate and atmospheric medieval church, standing along one side of Manger Square is the focal point for any visit. The Cave of the Nativity is reached by going down some steps inside the church and a star on the floor shows where Jesus was supposedly born. Other sites in and around Bethlehem include the Shepherds’ Field and Grotto and, on the Jerusalem side of town, Rachel’s Tomb – however, these are both particularly dangerous spots at present. Away from the rather tawdry tourist sights, Bethlehem is a charming small Arab town. The Palestinian National Authority (PNA) tourist information centre (tel: (02) 074 1581) is located on the southern side of Manger Square, but is currently closed. The PNA also have official websites (www.bethlehem2000.org and www.visit-palestine.com), which give some information about the town, but neither has been updated since they were first put up in 1999, before the start of the intifada.

If Bethlehem can be safely visited, it can be easily reached by sherut (shared taxi) from Jerusalem. Sheruts leave from opposite the Old City’s Damascus Gate and follow the Hebron Road. A passport is necessary to show at checkpoints.

For a Whole Day

Masada: Situated on an isolated flat mountain top in the Judean Desert and overlooking the Dead Sea, Masada (pronounced ‘matzada’ in Hebrew and meaning ‘fortress’) was the scene of the final heroic Jewish resistance against the Romans. The group of Jewish zealots who had fled with their families to Masada realised that they faced imminent defeat and, rather than surrender to the Romans, all 967 men, women and children committed suicide. The extensive ruins include Herod’s Palace (tel: (08) 658 4207), the synagogue, the fortress, an elaborate bathhouse and much more. Guided tours are available.

Masada (tel: (07) 658 4117/8; website: www.parks.org.il) is run as a national park. It is open Saturday to Thursday 0800-1700 (until 1600 Oct-Mar) and Friday 0500-1500 (cable car operates from 0800. There is an admission charge with the cable car costing extra. Masada lies on Route 90 close to the Dead Sea, 22km (14 miles) east of the desert town of Arad, and 20km (12 miles) south of Ein-Gedi. Approaching from the east, the road ends at the parking lot at the foot of the mountain. From there the ascent is either by the cable car, or by walking up the Snake Path – a tiring climb taking just under an hour. From the west, the road ends at the western parking lot, from which there is a 15- to 20-minute easy climb to the top. Masada can be reached by bus 444, 486 or 487 from west Jerusalem.

Ein Gedi Spa, Dead Sea: Located on the western shore, the Ein Gedi Spa (tel: (08) 659 4760 or 4813; website: www.inisrael.com/eingedi/spa.htm), offers a chance to float in the Dead Sea, relax in its sulphur pools and enjoy its excellent restaurant. Bathers can be covered in black mud before going for a dunking in the sea, which, at some 400m (1,320ft) below sea level, is the lowest point on earth. Famous for its curative powers, the Dead Sea is the saltiest and most mineral-laden body of water in the world. The Ein Gedi Spa is open Saturday to Thursday 0700-1800, and Friday 0700-1700 (admission charge). It can be reached by bus 421, 444 or 486 from west Jerusalem.

It is possible to combine the Masada and Ein Gedi Spa in a day with one of the tours run by the Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888; website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/).