World City Guide

Mini Guide of Lille

City Overview

The foreign city that is closer to the British mainland than any other has been growing in popularity over the past few years. Named European Capital of Culture in 2004 (a lot of cash was invested in the rejuvenation of the city for the occasion), this northern town today attracts tourists who come for its Flemish ambience, its excellent museums, great food and beer, and of course the world renowned Grande Braderie (Europe’s biggest flea market).

Lille has had a stormy history (it has been besieged no fewer than 11 times). In fact, the city only became definitely part of France just over 300 years ago. The town, whose name is derived from the French l’île (‘the island’), thus named because it was situated on an island in the Deûle River, started life as a small village founded by the Flemish in about 1030. Before the end of the 11th century, the village had grown into a town and had been fortified by Count Baldwin IV of Flanders. Before the end of the century, it became a leading textile producer.

The capital of Flanders during the Middle Ages, Lille was given to France by the Flanders government in 1312. Subsequently, it fell into various hands (including Austrian and Spanish ones), before being reclaimed, in 1667, by Louis XIV, who made it a showplace of French power and glory. In 1708, Lille was captured again by Eugene, Prince of Savoy, in collaboration with the English under the Duke of Marlborough. It was restored to France in 1713 by the Peace of Utrecht. Lille was both damaged and occupied by the Germans in both World Wars.

Today Lille (or Ryssel in Flemish) is the most important city in northern France, and the fourth biggest overall in the country. It has a very young population (including many students), and a vibrant cultural scene. The Eurostar connection with London has made it easier than ever to access from the UK.

Lille is not blessed with the best of weather, but even when it’s cold or rainy outside, it’s always warm and welcoming in the numerous estaminets (local take on bar/tavern). Summer is the best time to visit.

Getting There By Air

Aéroport de Lille
Tel: 0891 67 32 10.
Website: www.lille.aeroport.fr

The airport is located in Lesquin, 10km (6 miles) from Lille. A shuttle links the airport with the city centre in 20 minutes (tel: (03) 20 90 79 79) and runs from 0530-2230 during the week, and depending on flights at the weekend. Neither British Airways nor any of the no-frills airlines fly there, though, and even Air France does not have any direct flights from the UK. From the UK, the best option by far is Eurostar (see Getting There by Train).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Motorways bear the prefix ‘A’ and national roads ‘N’. Minor roads are classed as ‘D’ (départementales) roads. Traffic is on the right and drivers must give way to the right, unless the route is marked with Passage Protégé signs (a broad arrow, a yellow diamond or an ‘X’ on a triangular background) or the driver is at a roundabout indicating 'vous n’avez pas la priorité' (‘you do not have the right of way’). Speed limits are 130kph (80mph) on motorways; 110kph (68mph) on dual carriageways separated by a central reservation; 90kph (56mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Drivers who have held a driving licence for less than two years have different speed restrictions to those who have been driving for longer – a maximum speed limit of 110kph (68mph) is enforced.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn by all front- and rear-seat passengers. Under-10s may not travel in the front seat. A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times, or the driver is liable for a fine. EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the legal minimum. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy. All headlamp beams must be adjusted for right-side driving by use of beam deflectors or by tilting the headlamp bulb-holder. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences such as speeding. Random breath tests for drinking and driving are common; the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%.

Emergency breakdown services:
AA (tel: 0870 550 0600)
Green Flag (tel: 0800 400 638)

Lille has excellent road links, located as it is at the crossroads of five motorways: the A1 from Paris, the A25 from Dunkirk and Calais, the A23 from Valenciennes, the A27 from Brussels, and the A22 from Ghent, Antwerp and Amsterdam.

Driving from the UK, you’ll have to go by ferry over the Channel or use the Eurotunnel (tel: 08705 35 35 35 (in the UK); website: www.eurotunnel.com) to Calais, which is a mere 57 miles (92km) from Lille.

In Lille, car parks are available at Champ de Mars, Porte de Valenciennes and Norexpo. A shuttle links these three car parks with the city centre. Outside the city, in Porte des Postes, CHR Calmette, St Philibert and 4 Cantons, free parking is available.

Getting There By Rail

The easiest way to get to Lille from the UK is with Eurostar (tel: 08705 186 186; website: www.eurostar.com), either from London Waterloo (journey time – 1 hour 40 minutes) or Ashford in Kent (journey time – 1 hour). Trains depart regularly throughout the day but early booking is advisable for the best fares.

Information on other train services to Lille are available from the Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français (SNCF) (tel: 08705 186 186 in the UK or 0892 353 535 in France; website: www.sncf.fr). Both the Lille Europe (for Eurostar) and Lille Flandres stations are located in the city centre.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Transpole (website: www.transpole.fr) operates a good network of buses, trams and an automated, driverless metro - the ‘VAL’.

The town centre is very walkable, but the metro is useful for longer journeys: it works from 0500-midnight. Buy a carnet of 10 tickets in advance to save money.

Alternatively, a daily travel card, the Pass’Journée, allows you to travel anywhere on the network all day. More information is available (tel: 0820 42 40 40).

There is a shuttle linking the car parks at Champ de Mars, Norexpo et Porte de Valenciennes, via boulevard de la Liberté (stops at rue Nationale, place de la République, rue de Valmy, boulevard Jean-Baptiste Lebas) and boulevard Louis XIV (stop at Lille Grand Palais). Every 10-13 minutes daily except Sunday and bank holidays, 0700-2000.

Taxi
Taxis are available day and night from the main taxi ranks located at the airport, outside Lille Europe and Lille Flandres stations, and at various busy locations in town. Taxis can also be booked in advance from Taxi Union (tel: (03) 20 06 06 06), Taxi Gare (tel: (03) 20 06 64 00) and Taxi Rihour (tel: (03) 20 55 20 56).

Car Hire
Car rental is available from Ada (tel: (03) 20 55 18 18; website: www.ada.fr), Avis (tel: (03) 20 51 12 31, website: www.avis.fr), Europcar (tel: (03) 20 06 01 46; website: www.europcar.fr), Hertz (tel: (03) 28 36 25 90; website: www.hertz.fr) (all at Lille Europe, call for other locations) and Rent A Car (tel: (03) 20 40 05 06; website: www.rentacar.fr).

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Ch'ti vélo, in the Lille-Flandres station and at 146 rue Pierre Legrand (tel: (03) 28 53 07 49), has bikes for hire and is open seven days a week.

Business

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Lille is divided in two by the boulevard de la Liberté: to the north of the boulevard, which runs southeast by northwest, is charming Vieux Lille (the old town), nestled within the city’s former fortifications. It is a picturesque mixture of narrow streets and cobbled squares lined with chic boutiques, and cosy cafés and restaurants. To the south is the new town, not quite as picturesque as Vieux Lille, with its wide and regular streets.

The old city’s points of interest include the 1652 Flemish styled Vieille Bourse (the textile exchange), near the place du Général de Gaulle (aka Grand’Place), the heart of the city; the old hospital Hospice Comtesse on the rue de la Monnaie; the Opera House; the Cathedral, and for shopping, rue Basse, rue de la Grande Monnaie, and rue de la Clef.

Heading south, on the place de la République, the Musée des Beaux-Arts is another must see: one of the best museums in France, it houses a collection of 15th through 20th century paintings. Nearby, and worth a look too, is the Maison Coilliot, 24 rue de Fleurus, a beautiful example of art nouveau architecture.

To the west, the Citadel, now a military school, was reconstructed between 1667 and 1670 by the highly talented military architect Sébastien Le Prestre, Marquis de Vauban; and to the east, just by Lille Europe station, is the Euralille shopping complex.

Tourist Information
Office du Tourisme de Lille
Place Rihour
Tel: (03) 59 57 94 00 or 0891 56 2004 (from France only).
E-mail: info@lilletourism.com
Website: www.lilletourism.com
Opening hours: 0930-1830 daily except Sun and public holidays (1000-1200 and 1400-1700).

Passes
Pass Libre Accès gives free access to over 30 sites in Lille and the region, as well as free transport in the city.

Key Attractions

Palais des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum)
Widely acclaimed as France’s second best museum after Le Louvre, the Palais des Beaux Arts, housed in a Belle Epoque palace right in the city centre, has been attracting great crowds after an extensive and lengthy renovation. The impressive collection, which includes paintings by many such as Donatello, Raphael, Rubens, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, El Greco, David and Toulouse-Lautrec, is now even better displayed, and makes for a truly delightful visit.

Place de la République
Tel: (03) 20 06 78 00.
Website: www.mairie-lille.fr

La Vieille Ville (The Old Town)
Cobblestoned streets and superb old Flemish town houses (now home to exclusive boutiques) make for a pleasant stroll in a part of Lille that has barely changed in centuries. Particularly lively on Sundays, when the market takes place. Sit at a café and watch life go by. The cathedral, nearby, has a modern façade and gothic interiors. The impressive stations of the cross inside are by Brazilian painter Sergio Ferro.

Centre Commercial Euralille (Euralille Shopping Centre)
Inaugurated in 1994, this complex, built between the Eurostar and Lille Flandres stations by famous town planner Rem Koolhaas, is well worth checking out. It includes over 120 shops, several restaurants and a hypermarket over two levels.

Between Lille Europe and Lille Flandres stations
Tel: (03) 20 14 52 20.
Website: www.euralille.com

Place Général de Gaulle (aka Grand’ Place)
Lille’s main square is now an attractive pedestrian area overlooked by the Voix du Nord building (home of the North's leading newspaper, once the journal of the French Resistance in WW2). La Vieille Bourse (the Old Exchange), a centre where Flemish merchants traded their famous high-quality cloth, is on the left. The Column commemorates the siege of Lille by the Austrians in 1792.

Maison Natale Charles de Gaulle (Général de Gaulle Birthplace and Museum)
Lille’s most famous son, the Général de Gaulle, rose to fame as leader of the Free French forces whilst in exile in London during World War 2. After a period in the political wilderness, he became President of France in the 1950s - when he brought stability to a divided country which was struggling to adjust to the postwar situation, particularly whether to give independence to France's north African colony of Algeria. Visit the house where he was born on November 22, 1890.

9 rue Princesse
Tel: (03) 28 38 12 05.
Website: www.maison-natale-degaulle.org

Further Distractions

Musée de l'Hospice Comtesse (Hospice Comtess Museum)
This hospice, founded in 1237 by the Countess of Flanders, Jeanne de Constantinople, is one of the oldest buildings in Lille's characterful Old Town. It is home to a fine collection of gold, silver and earthenware objects, tapestries of Guillaume Werniers, paintings by the Watteau brothers, and several classic Flemish works.

32 rue de la Monnaie
Tel: (03) 28 36 84 00.
Website: www.mairie-lille.fr
Please note the museum is closed d for renovation until February 2006.

Parc Zoologique de Lille (Lille Zoo)
A good one for those travelling with children. The zoo, near the Citadelle Vauban, houses over 100 species of animals, ranging from birds (owls, parrots, etc) to big mammals such as rhinos, snow panthers, zebras, llamas and monkeys. Snakes, bats, tortoises and tiny monkeys such as ouistitis and tamarins can be seen in the tropical house. Open daily, and free.

Parc de Loisirs de la Citadelle
Tel: (03) 28 52 07 00.
Website: www.zoolille.com

Musée d'Histoire Naturelle (Natural History Museum)
Colourful exhibits from across the continents, including two enormous whale skeletons, and a large collection of birds and mammals.

19 rue de Bruxelles
Tel: (03) 28 55 30 80.
Website: www.mairie-lille.fr

Tours of the City

The tourist office (tel: 0891 56 20 04) organises a daily guided walk (except Sunday) at 1500. There is also a 50-minute minibus tour of the city, taking in the Old Stock Exchange, the Opera, the Comtesse Hospice, the Charles de Gaulle Museum, the Petit Quinquin, the Paris Gate and the Citadel (the old part of central Lille). On Saturday, the tourist office organises tours on segway, an original and ecological way to discover the city. The focus is on green spaces and monuments.

Or take a self guided tour of the city with Allo Visit (tel: 0892 683 314), which provides audio commentary direct to your mobile. There are seven stages of about three minutes each, available 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Excursions

Roubaix: Roubaix, now the centre of mail-order shopping, is the former heart of the French textiles industry. It used to be known as the ‘city of 1,000 chimneys’ and many of the old factories still stand. Don’t miss La Piscine, 23 rue de l’Espérance (tel: (03) 20 69 23 60), a delightful art museum located in the former Art Deco swimming pool: the museum includes collections of paintings, sculptures, drawings, textiles, fashion, design and ceramics. Shopoholics can visit L'Usine (The Factory) a massive bargain shopping mall selling well known brands of discounts of up to 60%. For more information, contact Office du Tourisme de Roubaix, 12 place de la Liberté (tel: (03) 20 65 31 90; website: www.roubaixtourism.net).

Musée d’Art Moderne Lille Métropole: Located in Villeneuve d’Ascq, this is a striking museum (the building looks like a construction of Lego bricks) set in a private compound in the middle of a lovely urban park. Opened in1983, it was designed by the architect Roland Simounet to house a prestigious collection donated in 1979 to the city of Lille by Jean Masurel, a Northern textile factory owner and patron of several modern artists from the 1950s on. Works by Léger, Derain, Braque, Picasso, Modigliani, Miró, Masson and Klee, to name but a few. 1 allée du Musée (tel: (03) 20 19 68 68; website: www.nordnet.fr/mam).

Sport

Shopping

In the Old Town, narrow winding cobblestoned streets hide tiny boutiques in old Flemish houses around the rue de la Monnaie (Lille’s oldest street).

For classic designer names, head straight for the rue de la Grande Chaussée, right in the centre of town, where you will find names like Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Lacoste and the likes.

Gourmet fare not to be missed can be found at Philippe Olivier, 3 rue du Cure St Etienne, one of France’s most famous cheese shops. And of course a stop at Meert, on rue Esquermoise, is compulsory: here you will find exquisite waffles and other delicious pastries.

Several markets take place in Lille every week. The two most interesting ones are the one on place du Concert, an excellent, bustling food market in Lille’s Old Town on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, and the daily book market in the Vieille Bourse courtyard.

Last, but not least, don’t miss Euralille, a huge modern shopping complex located between the two train stations (see Key Attractions). And bear in mind that Lille (in common with most other French cities) keeps old-fashioned opening hours: most shops are closed on Sundays.

Culture

The Lille National Orchestra and the lavishly refurbished Opera House, place du Théâtre (tel: (03) 28 38 40 50; website: www.opera-lille.fr), the Théâtre du Nord (Theatre Roger Salengro) Grand’ Place (tel: (03) 20 14 24 24; website: www.theatredunord.fr) and the Grand Bleu, 36 avenue Marx Dormoy (tel: (03) 20 09 88 44; website: www.legrandbleu.com), a drama centre for young audiences, are the engines that drive the city's cultural life. Alongside them are the baroque Atelier Lyrique (based in Tourcoing) (tel: (03) 20 26 66 03; website: www.ville-tourcoing.fr/atelierlyrique), Ballet du Nord (tel: (03) 20 24 66 66; website: www.balletdunord.com) and Danse à Lille (tel: (03) 20 20 70 30; website: www.dansealille.com), which specialises in contemporary dance creations.

Lille has always been a city of music- and dance- lovers. Rock music, jazz and new music have their temple at the Aéronef , 168 Centre Euralille (tel: (03) 28 38 50 50; website: www.aeronef-spectacles.com) and its distribution circuit, made up of about 30 cafés that organise concerts. The biggest concerts are held at the Zénith-Aréna, 1 boulevard des Cités Unies (tel: (03) 20 14 15 16; website: www.lillegp.com) and the Sébastopol Theatre, place Sébastopol (tel: (03) 20 54 44 50; website: www.theatre-sebastopol.com), which has a programme on almost every day and is a must for operetta lovers in particular.

Two smaller theatres, Le Prato, 6 allée de la Filature (tel: (03) 20 52 71 24) and Le Biplan, 19 rue Colbert (tel: (03) 20 12 91 11) are also worth checking out for more alternative stuff.

The main cinemas in Lille are the Majestic, rue de Béthune (tel: 0892 68 00 73; website: www.cinefil.com), the Métropole, rue des Ponts-de-Comines (tel: 0892 68 00 73) and the UGC Ciné Cité Lille, 40 rue de Béthune (tel: 0892 70 00 00).

Nightlife

Lille has an active nightlife, catering mainly for the thousands of students who live and study in the city. To find out what’s on, get a copy of Sortir, a free listings publication out every Wednesday, available from the tourist office.

Bars: La Part des Anges, 50 rue de la Monnaie, has an impressive wine list, with ‘planches’ (wooden boards) loaded with cheeses or charcuterie to nibble on. Friendly service and laid back atmosphere. Try Les Trois Brasseurs, 22 place de la Gare, a big and bustling bar, or Le Moulin d’Or, 30 place du Théatre, which used to be a lingerie shop, now a very popular café. In the rue Royale area, BD Fugue Café at number 5, a funky comic store with a bar at the back, or at number 18, L’Illustration, where local intellectuals meet. Or try the Lounge Café at number 21 if cocktails are what you’re after.

Clubs: Sapo, 11 rue de Gand, or La Scala, 32 place Louise de Bettignies just round the corner, are popular with students. So is Le Tri Postal, avenue Willy Brandt (near the Euralille Shopping Centre), which has live music, a bar and a club in an old postal sorting office. The Network Café, 15 rue du Faisan (website: www.network-cafe.com) is one of the busiest (and trendiest) clubs in Lille, playing house and dance mainly.

Live Music: Try Le Tri Postal (see Clubs) or Le Splendid, 1 place du Mont de Terre (website: www.le-splendid.com). For more music venues see Culture.

City Statistics

Location: Region Nord-Pas de Calais, department of Nord.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 166,286 (city); 1,091,438 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3°C (37.5°F).
Average July temp: 18°C (64.5°F).
Annual rainfall: 700 mm (27.7 inches).

Special Events

Wazemmes Carnival, Feb/Mar, Wazemmes
Festival International de Court Métrage, end of Mar-beg Apr, short movies (website: www.rencontres-audiovisuelles.org/festival/)
Foire aux Manèges, Apr, merry-go-rounds, Champ de Mars
Paris Roubaix, Apr, cycling race (website: www.letour.fr/stf/roubaix/2005/us/)
Portes ouvertes Citadelle Vauban, May, open day
Wazemmes Accordion Festival, May (website: www.wazemmeslaccordeon.com)
Lille aux Saveurs, May, market showcasing local products
Festival Dix Vagues, Jun, parties in each quartier or district of Lille
Gay Pride, Jun
Les Géants, Jul, parade with giant characters representing traditional heroes of local stories and legends
Festival Lille Clef de Soleil, Jul (website: www.clefdesoleil.com)
Bastille Day, 14 Jul, military processions and fireworks
Braderie, Sep, Europe’s biggest flea market and Lille’s biggest event
Semi Marathon, Sep (website: www.semimarathon-lille.com)
Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, Sep (website: www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr)
Festival ‘au rayon burlesque’ du Nord (Prato Festival of Clowns), Dec, clowns, acrobats, trapezists, etc.
Christmas Markets, end of Nov-Dec

Cost of Living

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005