World City Guide

A decade ago, Lisbon was a city with an image problem. The capital of Portugal (a country dubbed the ‘Poor Man of Europe’) was often regarded as a rundown, shambolic and poverty-stricken place. Many locals, while being proud of their lively and characterful home, found it difficult to disagree. Today, Lisbon is experiencing the kind of renaissance not seen since the 14th and 15th centuries, when the city was at the heart of an empire that stretched from Brazil to India. The event credited with kicking off this recent rejuvenation was the World Expo in 1998. Lisbon managed to squeeze both the central government and the European Union for financial backing, as the authorities hauled the city into shape. Included in this was a new bridge across the River Tagus, a major expansion of the crumbling metro system and the massive redevelopment of the Expo site, the Parque das Nações. Lisbon was quick to seize on the catalyst of Expo 98 and used the worldwide exposure well, to put itself firmly on the tourist and business map. The city has taken its traditional charms (the friendliness of its people, its buzzing nightlife, the splendour of its natural setting) and moulded them into an attractive package.

This new golden age really began even earlier, in 1994, when Lisbon was proclaimed European City of Culture, and continued with Portugal hosting the European Football Championships in 2004. The capital once again found itself at the heart of things, with two massive football stadiums and some 20 new hotels built for the occasion, as well as a further expansion to the metro system.

Lisbon’s superb natural setting, spread across seven hills and hugging the banks of the wide River Tagus estuary, attracted settlers as far back as 900BC, with the arrival of the Phoenicians. However, its zenith was reached in the 14th and 15th centuries, when its explorers set out to investigate the world’s oceans. Many of the city’s grandest buildings, such as those along the waterfront in the suburb of Bélem, are legacies of those days. However, most of the city centre Baixa area only dates back to the 18th century, when a large swathe of Lisbon had to be rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1755. Lisbon’s famous fado music mournfully recounts the passing of the maritime golden age and such traumas as the earthquake. However, Lisbonetas today have a renewed spring in their step and have come a long way, in a very short time, from the introspection and fatalism of fado.

Twenty-first century Lisbon is a vibrant, cosmopolitan and creative city that has managed to successfully marry the historic with the modern, the traditional with the cutting edge. Lisbon is at its best on languorous summer evenings, when the pavement cafés and riverside restaurants bustle with steamy life. Even in winter, when rain sweeps in off the Atlantic, any brief snatch of sunshine brings the tables back outside, in a city where enjoying life and taking time to appreciate it is still paramount.

Getting There By Air

Aeroporto de Lisboa (LIS)
Tel: (21) 841 3700 or 3500. Fax: (21) 841 3675.
Website: www.ana-aeroportos.pt/anaingles/lisboa/homepage.htm

The airport, which celebrated its 60th birthday in 2003, has undergone a massive renovation over the last decade. It is located seven kilometres (four miles) north of the city. Portugal’s busiest airport, Aeroporto de Lisboa, served over nine million passengers in 2001.

Major airlines: The national airline is TAP Air Portugal (tel: (21) 7072 05700; website: www.tap-airportugal.pt ). PGA – Portugália Airlines (tel: (21) 842 5500; website: www.pga.pt ) is also a Portuguese-based airline. Other airlines serving the airport include Air France, British Airways, Iberia, KLM and Lufthansa.

Approximate flight times to Lisbon: From London is 2 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 6 hours 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours; from Toronto is 9 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: First aid, bureaux de change, post office, left luggage, a mobile phone shop, restaurant and bar are all open 24-hours. There are also duty-free and other shops, tourist information (open 0800–2400) and a bank. Car hire is available from A Castanheira, Auto Jardim, Avis, Eurodollar, Europcar, Guerin and Hertz.

Business facilities: There are CIP (Commercially Important Persons) lounges available to first and business class travellers on Air France, British Airways, Iberia, KLM, Lufthansa, Portugália and Varig. Facilities include fax, telephones and Internet.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: The Carris AeroBus (tel: (21) 361 3000 or 9662 98558; website: www.carris.pt ) departs every 20 minutes daily 0700-2100, to the city centre (journey time – 20 minutes) and the Cais do Sodré rail station. A one-day ticket costs ¬2.75 and includes further transport for that day on all trams, buses and metros. A three-day ticket costs ¬5.65. The AeroBus is free for TAP passengers, on presentation of used boarding passes when arriving and flight tickets when travelling to the airport. Carris’ local buses 5, 8, 22, 44, and 83 also service the airport daily 0600–2130, while bus 45 runs until 0115 (journey time – 20-30 minutes). A single ticket costs ¬1 and a day ticket costs ¬2.35.

Taxis are available 24-hours a day. The average taxi fare to the city centre is ¬10-17 (journey time – 15-30 minutes). The airport tourist information office also sells set fare vouchers for taxi rides to all areas of the city, which are normally more expensive, except during rush hours.

Getting There By Water

The Port of Lisbon (website: www.portodelisboa.com/ingles/pg-alcan.html ), located in the south of the city, along the River Tagus, is becoming an increasingly important stop on the international cruise ship circuit. Cruise ships call at Alcântara Dock, Rocha do Conde de Óbidos and Santa Apolónia. There are five marinas that receive private boats and provide mooring – Bom Sucesso, Belém, Santo Amaro, Alcântara and Olivais. Information is available from the Gestão da Náutica de Recreio (tel: (21) 392 2011; fax: (21) 392 2038). Facilities at Alcântara include conference and event space, parking and various nightlife venues.

Ferry services: There are no long-distance ferries (see Getting Around for cross-river services).

Transport to the city: Tram, bus and rail services all run along the riverfront.

Getting There By Road

Traffic drives on the right in Portugal and international traffic signs are used. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Speed limits are 120kph (74mph) on motorways, 90kph (56mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (30mph) in towns. Tolls are charged on most motorways. Motorways are indicated by the prefix ‘A’; minor roads by the prefix ‘N’ and European routes by the letter ‘E’. Both International Driving Permits and national driving licences are accepted. A Green Card and third-party insurance are compulsory, as is a warning triangle. Seatbelts must be worn and children should travel in the rear seat. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

The national motoring association is Automóvel Club de Portugal (ACP), Rua Rosa Araujo 24 (tel: (21) 318 0202; e-mail: info@acp.pt; website: www.acp.pt ), which can offer assistance to motorists belonging to an automobile club with whom the ACP has a reciprocal agreement.

Emergency breakdown service: ACP (21) 942 9103

Routes to the city: The A1 Auto-estrada do Norte extends from Porto to Lisbon and the A8 arrives from destinations to the north and west of the city. The A9 bypasses Lisbon, connecting the A1and A8, as well as the A5, which links Lisbon with Cascais and the beaches. The A2 Auto-estrada do Sul arrives from Faro and the Algarve via Almada and the Ponte 25 de Abril. The A2 also links to the A6, which continues on for connections to Madrid. The A12 crosses the Ponte Vasco da Gama, offering a less congested route into the city.

Approximate driving times to Lisbon: From Porto – 3 hours; Faro and the Algarve – 4 hours (longer on summer weekends); and Madrid – 9 hours.

Coach services: The main bus terminal, especially for international destinations, is located near Saldanha metro station, Avenida Casal Ribeiro. Inter-Centro (tel: (21) 357 1745), operates international services from destinations in France, Spain and the United Kingdom. Rede Nacional de Expressos (tel: (21) 354 5439 or 310 3111; website: www.rede-expressos.pt ) provides coach services from hundreds of Portuguese destinations. The main Rede ticket office and terminal is Terminal do Arco do Cego, Avenida Duque D’Ávila 12 (tel: (21) 354 5439). Travellers can call the National Express Coach Service (tel: (707) 223 344) for further information.

Getting There By Rail

Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses – CP (tel: 808 208 208; website: www.cp.pt ) is the Portuguese national rail service provider. Over the last decade, CP’s reputation has improved, with more efficient services and a modernisation programme, which has especially benefited the Porto-Lisbon service with the introduction of high-speed trains along the route. Travellers should contact CP direct for all national rail enquiries.

Lisbon is served by five major railway stations, as well as a number of suburban stations. Santa Apolónia, Avenida Infante D Henrique, serves long-distance and international routes, as well as suburban routes heading north and west. The gleaming new Oriente station, at the Parque das Nações, on the city’s eastern approach, has become an increasingly important long-distance train station since it was opened for Expo 98. Rossio, between Praça dos Restauradores and Rossio, serves Sintra, while Cais do Sodré, near the Praça Duque da Terceira, serves Cascais and Estoril. The Barreiro station, on the south bank of the River Tagus, serves the south, although plans have been mooted for a new bridge across the river, which would take trains direct from Lisbon to the Algarve.

Facilities at the stations vary from an assortment of refreshment amenities at Oriente station to a dilapidated shopping centre at the somewhat run-down and insalubrious Rossio station.

Rail services: Intercity trains connect all of Portugal’s major cities to either Lisbon or Porto. Both the comfortable Alfa Service from Porto and the InterCity train from Faro take approximately three hours and 30 minutes to reach Lisbon. There are overnight trains from Madrid (journey time – 10 hours) and Paris (journey time –18 hours 30 minutes).

Transport to the city: Rossio is connected to the Restauradores metro station. Cais do Sodré has its own metro station. Santa Apolónia is linked to the centre by bus, although it should be linked by metro by 2004. From Barreiro, CP operates a ferry to the Terreiro do Paço dock near Praça do Comércio. The Oriente station is connected to the city by its own metro station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Lisbon’s metro system, the Metropolitano de Lisboa (tel: (21) 798 0600; website: www.metrolisboa.pt ), is an efficient way for one to get around the city. It also features works by prominent artists. There are four lines (A-D) and trains run every three to ten minutes daily 0630-0100. Ambitious plans are currently underway to expand the network in time for summer 2004.

A single ticket costs ¬0.65 and a return ticket ¬1.05; a carnet of 10 costs ¬5.10. Both one-day and seven-day passes are available for ¬1.40 and ¬4.80, respectively, while a 30-day pass costs ¬12. Single tickets and carnets are available for purchase from station ticket office and self-service machines 0630-0100. Passes can be purchased from the special offices at certain stations (including Cais do Sodré, Campo Grande, Marquês de Pombal, Oriente and Restauradores) from Monday to Friday 0830–1800 (until 2100 on the last work day of the month).

Complementing Lisbon’s metro is the city’s network of buses, trams and elevadors (funiculars/street lifts), which are run by the Companhia Carris de Ferro de Lisboa (tel: (21) 361 3000 or 9662 98558; website: www.carris.pt ). Most bus and tram services operate daily 0600-0100. There are also eight night bus routes, which converge at the Cais do Sodré. Tickets for buses and funiculars are available for purchase on board for ¬1, or at kiosks for ¬0.40. Carris passes are available for one or three days, for ¬2.35 and ¬5.65 respectively.

Passes valid for bus, tram and metro services are available for one day (¬2.65), three days (¬5.65) four days (¬9.55) and seven days (¬13.55). These are all available for purchase at Carris kiosks. The Lisboa Card tourist pass offers unlimited travel on public transport, except tram 15 and 18 and the Elevador de Santa Justa (see Sightseeing).

For travel by water, most cross-Tagus ferries are operated by Transtejo (tel: (21) 322 4000; website: www.transtejo.pt ) and arrive at Belém, Cais do Sodré and Terreiro do Paço. CP (Portuguese Railways) runs the ferry link from Barreiro (where the CP trains terminate) to Praça do Comércio – the fare is included in the ticket price for rail travellers. Depending on the route, ferry services operate daily roughly 0700-2200. Tickets are available for purchase at the ferry pier and cost between ¬0.60 and ¬1.50.

Taxis
Taxis are beige (the older ones are black with a green roof) and have small green lights on top, indicating availability. Taxis can easily be hailed on the street, at ranks or by telephone (for a ¬0.75 surcharge) from Rádio Táxis (tel: (21) 811 9000) and Teletáxis (tel: (21) 811 1100). Lisbon’s once notorious taxi drivers have been reined in over the last few years, although caution should still be exercised with regards to overcharging.

Taxis are metered and the minimum charge is ¬1.80 and ¬2.15 between 2200 and 0600. A supplement of ¬1.50 is payable for luggage carried in the boot or on the roof. A tip of 10% is expected and appreciated.

Limousines
UNILIS, Rua Actor Vale 25b (tel: (21) 816 0000; fax: (21) 816 0009), offers a limousine service with multi-lingual drivers and in-car mobile phones. The cost for a full day (0900-1800) of limousine hire is approximately ¬250, with extra charges for tolls, extra hours or mileage above 150km (93 miles) and the driver’s meal.

Driving in the City
Driving in Lisbon can be more than a little nerve-wracking – not only do cars speed around but road signs are also often inadequate. The A9 outer ring road, known as the CREL (Cintura Regional Exterior de Lisboa), and the inner ring road, CRIL (Cintura Regional Interior de Lisboa), move traffic efficiently around the city, except during the extended nightmare of rush hour weekdays from 1700-1900. Despite the new Vasco Da Gama bridge across the River Tagus, the Ponte 25 de Abril can still take an hour to cross during rush hour and summer weekends. Over the last few years, increasing pedestrianisation and traffic calming measures in the city centre have added to the trauma of driving in Lisbon.

Pay-and-display parking is in effect Monday to Friday 0800-2000 in many areas of central Lisbon, costing ¬0.30 for half an hour and ¬2.50 for the four-hour maximum. Parking is also available at the larger shopping centres. A network of underground car parks is currently being built – these are indicated by large blue ‘P’ signs and are far more expensive than metered street parking, although convenient, seeing as all-day and 24-hour parking is available.

Car Hire
Drivers must be at least 21 years old to hire a car and a valid national drivers license is required. Insurance is mandatory in Portugal and lack thereof can lead to a heavy fine. Third party liability is often included in the hire price, although visitors should always check this and ask for an International Insurance Certificate. Accident rates are high in Portugal, so extra insurance is recommended.

Car hire companies include Autocerro, Quinta de Francelha de Baixo, Bloco (tel: (21) 940 0555; fax: (21) 940 0553; e-mail: marketing@autocerro.pt; website: www.autocerro.pt ), Avis, Edifício Campo Grande 390, 2nd and 3rd Pisos/Floor (tel: (21) 754 7800; fax: (21) 754 7994; website: www.avis.com ), and Europcar, Avenida Severiano Falcão 9: (tel: (21) 940 7710; fax: (21) 941 8607; website: www.europcar.pt ). High-season hire for a week costs ¬300-400 for a small five-door car with air-conditioning, such as a Fiat Punto.

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles are a good way for one to get around the large former Expo98 site but are not very practical for the steep streets that comprise much of Lisbon. Bicycles are available for hire at Adrenalina Gravidade Zero, at the north end of the Parque das Nações (tel: (21) 892 2300), for ¬4 per hour. A passport or other form of ID must be left as a deposit.

Business

Business Profile
Portugal has come a long way since it was dubbed the ‘Poor Man of Europe’. Impressive infrastructure projects, like the new Vasco da Gama Bridge and the expanded metro system, are vivid demonstrations of the new face of the city. However, over the last few years, the growth level has slowed along with the rest of the global economy. Lisbon is still one of the fastest growing European cities, in economic terms, with a low unemployment rate of 4%. Portugal also has one of the lower unemployment figures in Europe, standing at 5.1% at the start of 2003.

In 1999, Portugal joined the EMU and tight fiscal policies ensured the country continued to meet the EMU criteria. The introduction of the Euro in 2002 finally sealed Portugal’s place in the developed Western European economy. Being part of the EMU has strengthened the country’s trading bonds with the other European countries – almost half the trade is with Spain, Germany and France. Membership of the EU has also brought with it a massive investment in infrastructure, which has boosted the domestic construction industry and made it easier to transport goods and generally do business. The successful staging of Expo 98 was a sign that Lisbon is now a progressive European city and silenced many of the critics who predicted that it would be a disaster. The European Football Championships in 2004 also look set for success and should bring more money into the city’s coffers.

There are storm clouds on the horizon, however, as Portugal becomes enmeshed in the global downturn, with rising unemployment and more difficult operating conditions. A number of large-scale infrastructure improvements (the most vivid demonstration of Lisbon’s ambitions over the last decade) have been out on hold by the new PSD government of Manuel Durao Barroso, including plans for a new airport and a new rail bridge across the Tagus, which would open up fast connections to the Algarve.

The main industries and employers in Lisbon are tourism, followed by finance, insurance, consulting and telecommunications. The Baixa district is the location of many of the banks and major financial services. Many multinationals, including KPMG, Arthur Anderson and Barclays Bank, have a presence in the city and their bases of operations for the entire country are usually located here.

The Portuguese Investment, Trade and Tourism Institute, Avenida 5 de Outubro 101 (tel: (21) 793 0103; fax: (21) 793 5028; website: www.portugal.org ), offers English-language assistance on doing business in Lisbon. The British Council, Rua Simao Bolivar 259 (tel: (21) 321 4500; fax: (21) 347 6151; website: www.britishcouncilpt.org ), provides translation services.

Business Etiquette
Doing business is Lisbon is far less bureaucratic than it used to be but can still require a lot of patience, despite the fact that a reasonably good level of English is spoken in business circles. Appointments might stretch on for longer than anticipated, with long lunches common. Even the most rudimentary of business transactions and dealings seem to take longer in Lisbon than in most European capitals.

Shaking hands is customary when meeting and taking leave and business cards are exchanged after introduction. When addressing someone, it is customary to use their title (especially if they have a profession (engenheiro, for example) or university degree) followed by their full name. Regardless of their degree, university graduates are usually referred to as ‘Doctor(a)’. Mr, Ms and Mrs translate to Sr, Sra and D (for ‘Dona’). Co-workers often refer to each other as ‘colleague’.

Business suits are standard office attire for both men and women. It is advisable for visitors to enquire whether or not the same attire should be worn for social functions. It is considered very rude to write anything official in red ink. Normal business hours are Monday to Friday 0900-1300 and 1500-1800.

Business socialising generally focuses on eating and drinking in bars and restaurants, with this seldom extending to people’s homes. Alcohol will usually be drunk with all meals, although local business people hardly ever overindulge during business meetings.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Getting around Lisbon is all part of the fun, with a city centre that is easily navigable on foot for reasonably fit visitors. When the gradients become too much, the rapidly improving metro system is on hand and there is also the bus network, as well as the enjoyable array of clanking trams, bobbing ferries, crawling funiculars and lofty elevadors.

The elevadors and funiculars are a good place for visitors to start exploring the city, as they offer expansive views. Alternatively, São Jorge Castelo also commands impressive vistas, with the rambling Alfama old town rumbling away below the ramparts and the grid-like order of the Baixa visible just to the west. The Baixa is the business and shopping centre of the city, boasting its grandest square, Praça do Comercio, which lies right on the banks of the River Tagus. Baixa borders the Biarro Alto, a hilly coil of narrow streets that buzzes with shoppers by day and partygoers at night. Heading further west, the once neglected docklands have been revamped over the last decade, with new shops, bars and restaurants spicing up the old warehouses. Even further west, towards the Atlantic, is the suburb of Belém, on the city’s western extremities, which is the heart of the old Portuguese Empire, with a string of attractions that include the Torre de Belém, Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Centro Cultural de Belém.

Expo 98 left the impressive legacy of the Parque das Nações, to the east of the city centre, which is at the opposite end of the time scale from Belém – an ultra modern playground that is home to Europe’s second largest Oceanarium, a huge shopping centre, river walkways and concert venues.

Meanwhile, outside the city boundaries, the twin resorts of Estoril and Cascais offer a beach escape in the summer months, while the mountain retreat of Sintra is a perennially popular day trip and place to cool off when the mercury gets up in the city.

Tourist Information
Associação Turismo de Lisboa
Lisboa Welcome Centre, Praça do Comércio
Tel: (21) 031 2810 or 031 2815
E-mail: alt@alt-turismolisboa.pt
Website: www.atl-turismolisboa.pt
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000.

The main tourist office dispenses information on its ground level and sells souvenirs on the second floor. Other offices are located at Praça dos Restauradores, Mercado da Ribeira, Rua Augugsta, Belém, Santa Apolónia station and the airport. There are also information kiosks near main tourist sites.

Passes
The Lisboa Card offers unlimited travel and free or discounted entry to more than 50 museums and attractions, as well as a guide to Lisbon. There are 24-hour (¬13.25 adult/¬5.90 child), 48-hour (¬22.50 adult/¬9.10 child), and 72-hour (¬27.50 adult/¬11.90 child) cards available for purchase at Associação Turismo de Lisboa offices.

Key Attractions

Castelo de São Jorge (Castle of St George)
The Castle of St George is perched on the highest of Lisbon’s seven hills, high above the Baixa and the Mouraria (the Moorish Quarter). The site was occupied by Romans, Visigoths and Moors and was the royal residence until the late-15th century – it was rebuilt in the 1940s. Within the castle, tourists can visit multimedia presentations or just wander around the walls, towers and gardens. During summer, there are frequent festivals in the castle grounds. There is also a small restaurant (summer only). Perhaps the greatest attraction is the panoramic view from the ramparts.

Largo do Chäo da Feira
Tel: (21) 887 7244. Fax: (21) 887 5695.
Transport: Tram 12 or 28; bus 37.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100 (Apr-Sep); daily 0900-1800 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: Free.

Tram 28
The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction within itself. Vintage trams still ply the well-worn route from the city centre on sea level, right up through the jumble of streets towards the heights of the Castle of St George. On the way, the tram slices open the city, providing insights into the Lisbon way of life, as well as offering sweeping views back towards the city and out over the River Tagus. One word of warning – the tram is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with savvy tourists.

Campo Ourique-Martim Moniz
Tel: (21) 361 3000.
Website: www.carris.pt
Opening hours: Daily 0600-0100.
Admission: ¬1.

Torre de Belém (Belém Tower)
One of the city’s most famous sights is more impressive on the outside than it is on the inside. This white stone tower (built in the early-16th century to defend the river) was the last thing that the seafaring adventurers saw before setting off on their epic adventures. It is an excellent example of the Manueline style of architecture, with fanciful naval themes. A gangway leads to a very average museum within the tower.

Avenida de Brasília
Tel: (21) 362 0034. Fax: (21) 363 9145.
Transport: Tram 15; bus 27, 28, 29, 43, 49 or 51; train to Belém station.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: ¬3.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Hieronimite Monastery)
This 16th-century monastery is one of the few surviving examples of medieval Manueline architecture (named after Manuel I and featuring naval motifs) and is listed, along with the Torre de Belém, as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is also the resting place of Vasco da Gama and the nation’s most famous writer, Luís de Camões.

Praça do Império
Tel: (21) 362 0034. Fax: (21) 363 9145.
Transport: Tram 15; bus 27, 28, 29, 43, 49, 51 or 112; train to Belém station.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Oct-Apr); Tues-Sun 1000-1830 (May-Sep).
Admission: ¬3.

Parque das Nações (Nations Park)
The former Expo98 site has been converted into a leisure oasis, with a shopping centre, a string of attractions, concert halls, bars, restaurants and a walkway along the River Tagus. The Torre Vasco da Gama (the site’s landmark tower and Lisbon’s tallest building) has an observation platform and restaurant, two-thirds of the way up. The Oceanário (Europe’s second largest aquarium) has huge pools that are home to manta rays, penguins and sharks, as well as adorable otters floating around on their backs. Designed for all manner of public events, the Atlântico Pavilion is a highly successful venue for concert, fairs and other functions. The waterside cable car, connecting the tower and oceanarium, offers excellent views over the site. Summer weekends are best avoided for visits, however, as every family in Portugal seems to descend on the site. A three-day cartão do parque (park card), costing ¬14, entitles visitors to discounted admission to many of the park’s attractions, as well as discounts in shops, restaurants and car parks.

Parque das Nações
Tel: (21) 891 9333.
E-mail: info@parquedasnacoes.pt
Website: www.parquedasnacoes.pt
Transport: Rail or metro to Estação do Oriente station; bus 5, 10, 21, 25, 50, 68 or 114.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Atlântico Pavilion
Rossio dos Olivais
Tel: (21) 891 8409. Fax: (21) 891 8413.
E-mail: info@atlantico-multiusos.pt
Website: www.atlantico-multiusos.pt
Opening hours: Daily 1300-1900 (ticket office).
Admission: Free; event prices vary.

Cable Car
Between Torre Vasco da Gama and the Marina locks
Tel: (21) 896 5823.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1100-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-2000.
Admission: ¬1.50.

Oceanário
Esplanada D Carlos I-Doca dos Olivais
Tel: (21) 891 9898 or 7002. Fax: (21) 891 9003 or 895 5762
Website: www.oceanario.pt
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900.
Admission: ¬9.

Torre Vasco da Gama
Cais das Naus
Tel: (21) 891 8000. Fax: (21) 891 8005.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000.
Admission: ¬2.50.

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Calouste Gulbenkian Museum)
This treasure house of art, covering almost every significant epoch, benefited greatly from a major revamp in 2001. Egyptian, Greco-Roman, Islamic and Oriental art comprise half the exhibition rooms and the remainder is devoted to European art from medieval times to the early 20th century. The sequence continues with the foundation’s Centro de Arte Moderna, which is part of the same complex.

Avenida de Berna 45
Tel: (21) 782 3000. Fax: (21) 782 3032
E-mail: museu@gulbenkian.pt
Website: www.gulbenkian.pt
Transport: Metro São Sebastião or Praça de Espanha; bus 16, 26, 31, 46 or 56.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1745.
Admission: ¬3; free Sun; concessions available.

Centro Cultural de Belém (Belém Cultural Centre)
This modern complex is home to the Museu do Design (Museum of Design) as well as performance and exhibition spaces. The museum features 20th-century design (divided into ‘luxury’, ‘pop’ and ‘cool’ themes) supplemented by temporary exhibitions. The courtyards and rooftop gardens make a great place to relax in between sightseeing.

Praça do Império
Tel: (21) 361 2400. Fax: (21) 361 2500.
E-mail: ccb@ccb.pt
Website: www.ccb.pt
Transport: Tram 15 or 17; bus 27, 28, 29, 43, 49 or 51; train to Belém station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2130.
Admission: ¬3.

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (National Museum of Ancient Art)
Essentially Portugal’s national gallery, this museum’s collections of painting and sculpture date from the 12th century and include a wide range of works by Portuguese and international artists.

Rua das Janelas Verdes 9
Tel: (21) 391 2800. Fax: (21) 397 3703.
E-mail: mnarteantiga@ipmuseus.pt
Website: www.ipmuseus.pt
Transport: Tram 15 or 18; bus 27, 40, 49, 51 or 60.
Opening hours: Tues 1400-1800, Wed-Sun 1000-1300 and 1400-1800.
Admission: ¬3.

Sé (Cathedral)
Built by Dom Alfonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, in the 12th century, Lisbon’s cathedral is primarily Romanesque in style, although later styles were incorporated when earthquake damage was repaired. The cloister dates from the 13th century, while the Baroque sacristy houses the remains of St Anthony (Lisbon’s patron saint) and other treasures. The cathedral also houses a small museum.

Largo da Sé
Tel: (21) 886 6752.
Transport: Tram 28; bus 37.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700.
Admission: Free (cathedral and museum); ¬1 (cloister); ¬2.50 (treasury).

Museu Da Áqua O Aqueduto Das Aqua Livres (Water Museum and Aqua Livres Aqueduct)
Situated close to the historic wall of the Convento dos Barbadinhos, where the first elevated steam-operated water station was constructed in 1884, the Museu Da Áqua itself is average. The main reason for visitors to come here is to visit the impressive Aqueduto das Águas Livres, which achieved the much-deserved status of a national monument in February 2002. The aqueduct’s startling Baroque stone arches were erected by architects Manuel da Maia and Custodio José Vieira in 1748; they survived the 1755 earthquake, which rocked and all but crumbled the city. The 18km (11-mile) journey makes this an attraction only for those with a keen interest in architecture.

Rua do Alviela, 12
Tel: (21) 813 5522.
Transport: Bus 35, 104 or 105 to the Museu Da Áqua.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1800 (Mar-Nov).
Admission: ¬2.

Further Distractions

Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Tile Museum)
Located in the Convent of Madre de Deus, which was built in 1509, this museum catalogues the history of the decoration that makes Lisbon so unique, with examples of azulejos (glazed tiles) from the 15th century to the present.

Rua de Madre de Deus 4
Tel: (21) 814 7747. Fax: (21) 814 9534.
Website: www.ipmuseus.pt
Transport: Bus 18, 42, 104 or 105.
Opening hours: Tues 1400-1800 and Wed-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: ¬2.25.

Miradouros (Viewing points)
With its seven hills, Lisbon has a number of places not only to see but also to see from. The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, at the top of the Elevador de Glória funicular, offers views over the Baixa and across to the Castelo de São Jorge. Sightseers are urged to hop off tram 28 to see the view over the Alfama and the River Tagus from the Miradouro Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol. Further along tram 28’s route, up the hill, is the Miradouro da Graça, which overlooks the Mouraria and the Castelo. The Elevador de Santa Justa is another great vantage point. Located at the end of Rua Santa Justa, it costs the same as other forms of public transit and is free with travel passes, although not with the Lisboa Card. Santa Justa boasts a café with panoramic views.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
Rua São Pedro de Alcântara
Transport: Elevador da Glória; bus 58 or 100.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Miradouro Santa Luzia
Largo Santa Luzia
Transport: Tram 28; bus 37.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Miradouro das Portas do Sol
Largo Portas do Sol
Transport: Tram 28 or 12; bus 37.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Miradouro da Graça
Largo Graça
Transport: Tram 28.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Lisbon is a city that demands a stroll around its unique neighbourhoods – notably Chiado, Bairro Alto, Mouraria and Alfama. Many of Turismo de Lisboa’s publications include self-guided walking tours, although there are currently no guided walking tours available.

Bus Tours
Standard bus tours are offered by Cityrama (tel: (21) 386 4322; e-mail: circuitos@cityrama,pt; website: www.cityrama.pt ), for ¬28 (half-day) and ¬65 (full day), including Sintra, Cascais and Estoril. Tours depart from Marquês de Pombal Square, although pick-up can be organised from a number of hotels. Similar half-day tours are offered by Portugal Tours (tel: (21) 352 2902 or 9175 47650, e-mail: infor@portugaltours.pt; website: www.portugaltours.pt ), also costing ¬28 and departing from Marquês de Pombal Square.

Cityline (tel: (21) 319 1090 or 386 4322; website: www.cityline-sightline.pt ) offers an open-top bus service, costing ¬13. Being a hop-on-hop-off bus service, the length of the tour can be self-determined and the ticket is valid for the whole day. The tour departs from Praça Marqués de Pombal. A similar service is offered by Carristur (tel: (21) 361 3000 or 9662 98558; website: www.carris.pt ), whose terminal is Praça do Comércio.

Passeante Promenader (tel: (21) 388 2513) offers city tours of up to two hours, in a people carrier. Tours cost ¬30 and pick-up from various city centre hotels is arranged. Cityrama and Passeante Promenader also offer night tours, which include a visit to a Fado house for ¬68 and ¬72 respectively.

Tram Tours
Carristur (tel: (21) 361 3000 or 9662 98558; website: www.carris.pt ) operates a city tour in a restored tramcar for ¬16 (concessions are available). The tram takes an hour and a half to travel through the historical sights of Lisbon, departing from the Praça do Comércio and passing the cathedral and castle. A much cheaper and often more enjoyable option is for tourists to just take one of the city’s old rumbling public trams.

Boat Tours
Transtejo (tel: (21) 322 4000; website: www.transtejo.pt ) offers a variety of boat tours, including two-hour tours of the River Tagus, from the docks east of Praça do Comércio and travelling as far west as the Belém Tower. Tours cost ¬15 (concessions are available) and depart daily at 1100 and 1500 from the Terreiro do Paço river station, April to October. Cityrama (tel: (21) 386 4322; e-mail: circuitos@cityrama.pt; website: www.cityrama.pt ) offers visitors a three-hour cruise on the Tagus for ¬25. Tours leave from Praça Marqués de Pombal at 1430 (April to October).

Excursions

For a Half Day
Estoril and Cascais: The resort of Estoril, located approximately 30km (19 miles) west of Lisbon, has long attracted the wealthy, who have built villas in the green hills above the beaches. A little further west from Estoril, Cascais has had a somewhat more humble history, operating more as a working fishing town than as a hideaway for the rich. Both attract crowds of tourists from Lisbon and abroad to their wide Atlantic beaches and watersports facilities. Cascais is renowned for its seafood restaurants, while Estoril has one of Europe’s largest casinos. Trains to both destinations depart from Cais do Sodré station. Further information on both Estoril and Cascais is available from Estoril Tourist Board, Arcadas do Parque (tel: (21) 467 8230; fax: (21) 467 8213; e-mail: animacao@estorilcoast.com; website: www.estoril-tourism.com).

For a Whole Day
Sintra: The many palaces, villas and gardens around Sintra, situated in the mountains west of Lisbon, have earned it a place as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sintra is dominated by the Palácio Nacional de Sintra (tel: (21) 910 6840; fax: (21) 923 4118), a royal summer palace that was largely developed in the 15th and 16th centuries and now houses the world’s most important collection of Mudejar azulejos (glazed tiles). The palace is open Sunday-Tuesday 1000-1700 and can be reached by train from Rossio station. Admission is ¬3. The Sintra Tourism Office, Praça da República 23 (tel: (21) 923 1157; fax: (21) 923 5176; website: www.cm-sintra.pt), can provide further information.

Sport

Lisboetas have always been mad about football, but this is even more so now that the capital was at the heart of Portugal’s staging of the European Football Championships in 2004. The city has two main clubs – Sport Lisboa e Benfica (website: www.slbenfica.pt ), known as the ‘red devils’, and Sporting Clube de Portugal (website: www.sporting.pt ), known as the ‘lizards’, for their green and white stripes. Both are strong first-division contenders, although have often played in the shadow of FC Porto (website: www.fcporto.pt ), over the last decade. Over the last few seasons, Belem minnows Belenenses (tel: (21) 301 0461; website: www.cfbelenenses.pt ) has emerged as an unlikely title contender, much to the chagrin of the big two players.

Sport can get bloodthirsty in Portugal and Lisbon is no exception. Bullfighting (tourada) can be seen at the 9000-capacity Campo Pequeno (tel: (21) 793 2093) during the summer months on Thursdays. Tickets start at around ¬15.

Surrounding the city are beaches, sailing clubs and watersports facilities – the Estoril Tennis Open, Portuguese Golf Open and the World Windsurfing Championships all take place along the coast.

Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase at the Agência de Billetes para Espectáculos Públicos (ABEP). There is a kiosk located in the southeast corner of Praça dos Restauradores. Ticket Line (tel: (21) 003 6300) also offers tickets to many popular events.

Fitness Centres: The Health Club Soleil, in the Amoreiras Shopping Centre (tel: (21) 383 2908), has a leisure centre with squash courts.

Golf: There are over a dozen 18-hole courses in the Lisbon area, notably the Clube de Golf do Estoril, Avenida da República, in Estoril (tel: (21) 468 0176), and Campo de Golfe de Belas, Alameda do Aqueduto, near Quelez (tel: (21) 962 6640), a championship course designed by William ‘Rocky’ Roquemore. Green fees are approximately ¬30-50 and membership is not required. Portugal Golf (tel: (21) 396 5410; fax: (21) 396 5410; e-mail: portugalgolf@netcabo.pt; website: www.portugalgolf.pt ) can provide further information.

Swimming: The beaches to the west of Lisbon, notably at Estoril and Cascais, are popular but can become very crowded during the height of summer. At the Cabo da Roca, the water is rougher. Many Lisboetas prefer the beaches south of the River Tagus – there are dunes and sandy beaches south of Caparica. The Piscina do Ateneu, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 102 (tel: (21) 343 0947), is a convenient swimming pool near the Rossio, open Monday to Friday 1530-1630 and 2100-2200 and Saturday 1530-1900.

Tennis: Tennis courts are located in the Jardim do Campo Grande, Campo Grande (tel: (21) 758 5192), as well as at the coastal resorts.

Shopping

Out of town mega malls may be gradually strangling many of Lisbon’s smaller shops but the Baixa quarter still thrives. Pricier outlets can be found on Avenida da Liberadade and in the attractive Chiado district, to the west above Baixa. Local handicrafts include baskets and other objects made of wicker, copper utensils, embroideries and lace, pottery and other ceramics. Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0900-1300 and 1500-1900 and Saturday 0900-1300. Shopping centres are open daily 1000-2300/2400. Centro Colombo is the largest shopping centre on the Iberian Peninsula. Competitors include the Amoreiras Shopping Centre, Rua Carlos Alberta da Mota Pinto, and the new Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama, at the Parque das Nações.

Lisbon has always been renowned for conservative dress but the renaissance of the city has also translated into a wave of new funky fashion stores. Pick of the bunch are Agencia, Rua do Norte 117, a 70s-style shop with a hairdresser and a bar, Fashion Gallery Atelier, Rua do Salitre 169, with its outrageous designs, and Godzilla, Rua dos Douradores 120, with its cutting edge club gear.

Lisbon’s most famous market is the Feira da Ladra (Thieves’ Market), which springs up Monday to Saturday 0900-1900 on the Campo de Santa Clara, packed with all sorts of bric-a-brac – yet another excuse for visitors to take tram 28.

The Lisboa Shopping Card, available from tourist offices for ¬3 for 24 hours and ¬5 for 72 hours, offers discounts at more than 200 stores in the city. There is a sales tax of 19% included in prices. Part of this may be reclaimed by visitors who are leaving the EU. Travellers wishing to take advantage of this must ask for a refund cheque for purchases over ¬59 at the time of purchase (available at participating stores only). The cheque must be stamped by customs and a refund claimed before passing through passport control. (website: www.globalrefund.com ).

Culture

The cultural scene in Lisbon today is a vibrant collage of old and new, as the ghosts of Lisbon’s grand past echo evocatively around the city’s contemporary venues. Lisbon offers a formidable number of venues and companies can often be found performing in a wide variety of sites, such as outdoor parks and national palaces.

The fortnightly Follow me Lisboa publishes cultural listings. Event tickets are available for purchase from the Agência de Billetes para Espectáculos Públicos (ABEP); there is a kiosk in the southeast corner of Praça dos Restauradores. Ticket Line (tel: (21) 003 6300) also offers tickets to many popular shows.

Music: The Orquestra Sinfónica Portuguesa (Portuguese Symphony Orchestra) is now based at the Teatro Camões, located at the former Expo98 site, in the Parque das Nações (tel: (21) 347 4049). The Gulbenkian Orchestra and Gulbenkian Choir perform at one of the concert halls and the open-air amphitheatre of the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, Avenida de Berna 45A (tel: (21) 782 3000; website: www.gulbenkian.pt ), adjacent to the museum. The Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, Rua Serpa Pinto 9 (tel: (21) 325 3000), is where opera productions are staged during the September to June season. Classical concerts are also held here. Other classical music ensembles include the Sinfonietta de Lisboa, based at the Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, and the Orquestra Metropolitana de Lisboa. Another major venue for music is the Coliseu dos Recreios, Rua das Portas Santo Antão 92 (tel: (21) 343 1677).

Theatre: Among Lisbon’s attractive theatres, the Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II, Praça de Dom Pedro IV, Rossio (tel: (21) 325 0800; website: www.teatro-dmaria.pt ), is the most striking. Theatre and opera productions are also hosted in the Pequeno and Grande Auditório (Small and Large Auditoria) of the Centro Cultural de Belém, Praça do Império (tel: (21) 361 2400; fax: (21) 361 2500; e-mail: ccb@ccb.pt; website: www.ccb.pt ). Most theatre performance in Lisbon is, naturally, in Portuguese, although there are also some English-language productions. The classics are still well liked, despite the fact that contemporary Portuguese and political work is becoming increasingly popular. The Artistas Unidos, Rua Fernando Palha (tel: (21) 868 8676; fax: (21) 868 8679; e-mail: info@aristasunidos.pt; website: www.artistasunidos.pt ) is an alternative company that specialises in political theatre.

Dance: The Portuguese National Ballet, Companhia Nacional de Bailado (website: www.cnb.pt ), is based at the Teatro Camões, located at the former Expo98 site, in the Parque das Nações (tel: (21) 347 4049). Other venues that host dance performances are the Centro Cultural de Belém, Praça do Império (tel: (21) 361 2400; fax: (21) 361 2500; e-mail: ccb@ccb.pt; website: www.ccb.pt ) and the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, Avenida de Berna 45A (tel: (21) 782 3000; website: www.gulbenkian.pt ).

Film: Films are almost always shown in the original language, with subtitles in Portuguese. For English-language films, the best bets are the multiplexes in the larger shopping centres. The Diário de Notícias newspaper has film listings. Mainstream theatres include Amoreiras, Avenida Engengeiro Duarte Pacheco (tel: (21) 387 8752), and Colombo, Centro Colombo, Avenida Luisada (tel:(21) 711 3222). Arthouse film fans are also catered for at the Londres, Avenida de Roma 7A (tel: (21) 840 1313).

The world’s oldest taxi driver and his 1928 Oldsmobile are the stars of the film, Lisboa Taxi (1996), which premiered in January 1997.

Cultural Events: Since the 16th century, the Procissão do Senhor dos Passos, a procession of violet-covered litters has passed through the Graça district on the second Sunday of Lent, in honour of Senhor dos Passos (Lord of the Steps). The month of June sees some of Lisbon’s most popular festivals, the Festas dos Santos Populares, honouring a number of saints, with parades and parties. Similar processions take place on the saints’ days in many of the surrounding villages.

Literary Notes: Portugal’s most famous writer was Luís de Camões, whose 16th-century poem, Os Lusíadas (1572), captured the spirit of the Portuguese Empire. The other famous name is poet Fernando Pessoa, born in Lisbon in 1888. In addition to his poems, Pessoa was involved with Orpheu magazine (founded in 1914), which made a significant contribution to the cultural discourse of the time. José Saramago, the Portuguese native who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1998, is the author of the 1989 tome, História de cerco de Lisboa (The History of the Siege of Lisbon), a fanciful retelling of the 1147 siege of the city.

Lisbon also appears in other nation’s works of literature. The 1755 earthquake, for example, serves as an important symbol in Voltaire’s Candide (1759). Henry Fielding moved to Lisbon for health reasons and died here, after completing the Journal of a Voyage to Lisbon (1755). Other more recent works include Mario de Sa-Carneiro’s The Great Shadow (circa 1915), a collection of short stories set in Lisbon, and Cees Nooteboom’s The Following Story (1991), a surreal tale of a teacher who falls asleep in Amsterdam and awakes in Lisbon. Robert Wilson’s A Small Death in Lisbon (2000) is a colourful novel delving into intrigues of corruption and double-dealing, as it switches between World War II and the late 1990s.

Nightlife

With whole areas of the city being turned over to the pursuit of pleasure and traffic jams at 0400-0500 at the weekend (and increasingly during the week as well), it is obvious that Lisbon is a city that takes its nightlife seriously. Traditionally, the nightlife centre has been Bairro Alto, with its fado clubs, traditional, canteen-style bars and upscale discos. The simplest thing is to walk in and out of a number of them, ordering an imperial (half pint), or a caneca (pint) if the place looks especially inviting. The bars are open until 0400, often with lock-ins. The average price of a beer in Lisbon is ¬2 and the minimum age for purchasing alcohol is 16 years.

A few years ago, much of the action moved on to the Docas (Docks) district, situated just to the east of Ponte 25 de Abril. One bar after another occupies a row of converted warehouses at the Doca de Santo Amaro, with a crowded promenade and tables out front. Back towards the city, the Doca de Alcântara is another favourite with Lisbon’s moneyed professionals and the ‘in’ crowd, although there have recently been problems with drugs that have led to tough and off-putting door policies. The current en vogue spot is around raffish Santa Apolonia, although things are a bit more hit and miss than they are at Biarro Alto, despite the presence of Lux, Lisbon’s most renowned nightclub (see below). At around 0200, many locals head to the multitude of discos, which rock until 0600 or later. Some Lisbon clubs leave the cover charge to the doorman’s discretion and entrance can cost anything from zero to ¬5-12 (often including some drinks).

The Time Out website (www.timeout.com ) is a good source of information on new bars, clubs and restaurants in Lisbon.

Bars: Along the row of buildings east of Ponte 25 de Abril, you can take your pick of the competing bars, including nightlife delights such as the popular Celtas Iberos Irish Bar, Doca de Santo Amaro. Finding a place in Bairro Alto is a bit more complicated – the best thing to do is to walk uphill from the Praça Luís de Camões, just to the west of the Chiado metro station. Clube da Esquina, Rua Barroca 30, is a trendy, minimalist bar that is popular with the local cool crowd. Rua da Atalaia is one of the more lively streets and the welcoming Portas Largas, Rua da Atalaia 105, is a good place to start, although it is sometimes taken over by private parties or DJ events that demand a high cover charge. Di Vino, Rua da Atalaia 160, is a haven for wine lovers, with occasional live music, while the Instituto do Vinho do Porto, Rua de Sao Pedro, claims to have over three hundred different varieties of port. Arroz Doce, Rua de Sao Pedro 117-119, is a traditional canteen-style bar and a good place to order a pontapé na cona. Fátima Lopes, Rua de Sao Pedro 36, is a swish bar with funky sofas and dancefloor. Punters can also shop for the eponymous designer’s fashions until 0400. Work in Progress (WIP), Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 47-49, is a more laid-back place with exposed brick walls and ambient music.

The current fashion in Lisbon is for restaurant/bars and one of the most hip spots at the moment is Bica do Sapato, Avenida Infante D Henrique, in the Santa Apolonia district. Housed in a revamped warehouse on the waterfront, this lounge bar cum restaurant cum sushi bar attracts the local smart set and Portuguese celebrities. American actor John Malkovich is said to be one of the investors.

Casinos: Casino Estoril, Praça Jose Teodoro dos Santos, Estoril (website: www.casino-estoril.pt ), is one of the largest and best-known casinos in Europe. There is a charge of ¬2.50 for the gaming rooms (excluding slot machines) and visitors must be over 18 years, wear smart-casual attire and provide ID.

Clubs: There are a number of clubs around Doca de Alcântara. There is not a huge difference music-wise between them. Kings and Queens, Doca de Alcântara, attracts boys and girls of all persuasions. Kremlin, Rua Escadinhas da Praia 5, and nearby Kapital, Avenida 24 de Julho 68, are both popular – the former plays techno in Egyptian-style surroundings, while the latter has three floors, each with a different style. The city’s hottest spot is still the ultra stylish Lux, Rua Gustavo Matos Sequeira 42, with John Malkovich said to be among those behind the funky mega-club. There is now a ¬12 cover charge but this includes the same value of drinks. Lux can be ticket only when big international DJs come to visit. In addition to the dancefloor, attractions include a lounge area with voluminous red latex beanbags and an outdoor terrace with views over the river.

Live Music: Fado is a form of music that developed in Lisbon’s sailor bars during the late 18th century. It is a mournful, romantic singing style that fits somewhere between blues and flamenco and bemoans the death of Portugal’s great Golden Age. These traditional sounds are best heard at one of the casa de fado, from about 2100-2200. Fado houses include Adega Machado, Rua Norte 91, Adega Mesquita, Rua Diàrio de Noctícias 107, A Severa, Rua das Gàveas 51–61 and Clube de Fado, Rua S. João da Prça 92-94. Visitors should be aware that most fado clubs charge at least a ¬10 entrance fee and increasingly are becoming the sole preserve of tourists in the high season.

Hot Clube de Portugal, Praça de Alegria 38-39, is a favourite for jazz sessions. On Thursday, live jazz is also played at Catacumbas Jazz-Bar, Rua da Rosa 154. For African and Brazilian music, try Lontra, Rua de São Bento 157, in Bairro Alto, and Pê Sujo, Rua Madalena 102-8, near the cathedral in the Alfama district. Large concerts can be seen at the Atlântico Pavilion, Rossio dos Olivais (tel: (21) 891 8409.; fax: (21) 891 8413.; e-mail: info@atlantico-multiusos.pt; website: www.atlantico-multiusos.pt ), in the Parque das Nações (see Sightseeing).

City Statistics

Location: Lisbon region, west coast of Portugal.
Country dialling code: 351.
Population: 681,063 (city); 2,000,000 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 70% Portuguese, 20% smaller minority communities from Macau, Brazil and other parts of Europe, 10% African.
Religion: Predominantly Roman Catholic.
Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 12°C (53.5°F).
Average July temp: 24°C (75°F).
Annual rainfall: 617mm (24.3 inches).

Special Events

Fado Festival, Feb, throughout the city
Lisbon Carnival, street parties and parades, Feb, focal point is Parque Nações
Procissão do Senhor dos Passos (Procession of the Lord of the Steps), religious procession, second Sunday of Lent, Mar, Graça district
ModaLisboa Fashion Show, Apr, Mercado da Ribeira
Estoril Open, tennis tournament, Apr, Estoril
Half Marathon, Apr, starts Almada and ends Belém
Bullfights, May–Sep, Campo Pequeno
Estoril Jazz Festival, Jun–Jul, Estoril
Portugal’s National Day, 10 Jun, throughout the city
Festas dos Santos Populares (Festivals of the Saints), Jun, throughout the city, particularly Avenida de Liberdade on the opening day
Festas da Lisboa (Lisbon Festival), cultural events throughout the city, Jun, various venues
Sintra Music Festival, classical concerts and dance, Jun-Sep, Sintra
Sintra Ballet Festivals, Jul-Aug, Sintra
Festival of the Oceans, literary tours, multimedia shows, sailing regattas and concerts, Aug, throughout the city
Lisbon Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, Sep, various venues
Estoril Open, golf tournament, Oct, Estoril
ModaLisboa Fashion Show, Oct, Convento do Beato
Lisboa Marathon, Nov, starts Almada and ends Belém
Bolsa de Natal, Christmas market, Dec, throughout the city
New Year’s Eve, 31 Dec, various sites along the Tagus, fireworks Praça do Comércio

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬1
33cl bottle of beer: ¬0.60
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2
36-exposure colour film: ¬5
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1
Adult football ticket: ¬15-25
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬8-17

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005