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City Guide > Europe > Slovenia > Ljubljana | |
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Mini Guide of Ljubljana City Overview Ljubljana may have long been one of Europe’s forgotten cities but the vibrant Slovenian capital is more than making up for lost time after the country joined the EU in 2004 and budget airline flights started up the same year, helping tourists discover what is one of the continent’s most charming capitals. In recent years, many a newspaper travel page has hailed Ljubljana as the ‘New Prague’ and at times Ljubljana does feel a bit like Prague, but also Amsterdam, Riga, Salzburg or Vienna, making Ljubljana a sort of greatest hits of European architecture. While seminal Slovene architect Jo~e Plečnik shaped the core of how the city looks and feels, Ljubljana has also been heavily influenced by other nations, with the Hungarians, Austrians and the Italians all rumbling through this strategic hub over the centuries. These eclectic influences permeate many aspects of city life including its food and drink, with enjoying an Italian-style ice cream as much part of the Ljubljana experience as savouring some hearty Hungarian goulash or quaffing a hoppy pilsner. Despite the weight of its history, Ljubljana also has one of the youngest populations of any European capital and it is awash with strutting young Ljubljančani decked out in the latest designer fashions. The business future for Ljubljana looks bright partly due to its strategic location, with easy access through a rapidly improving network of motorways to Austria, Italy, Hungary and Croatia, as well as easy access to Slovenia’s own Adriatic port of Koper, which give it an importance and potential above its modest size. It is also crucially the capital of an EU member with direct access to the untapped economies of the Balkan region. Getting There By Air Brnik Airport (LJU) Tel: (04) 259 4245. Website: www.lju-airport.si The airport is located 23km (14 miles) northwest of Ljubljana. Facilities in arrivals include car rental, a currency exchange office, bar, toilets and telephones and shops but no ATMs. In departures there is car rental, a currency exchange office, bar, toilets and telephones, shops and an ATM. A business class lounge is also located in departures. New multi-level parking facilities opened in 2005. Regular public buses run to the city as well as a private minibus service with Markun (tel: (04) 2521016). Metered taxis are also available outside the terminal. Getting There By Water Getting There By Road Ljubljana is well connected by motorway to other European cities. The E70 serves Zagreb in Croatia, the E57/E59 goes to Graz in Austria and the E61/E71 runs to Trieste in Italy. Increasingly Ljubljana is also connected to other destinations within Slovenia by a rapidly expanding network of modern motorways with the new route south via Postojna dramatically cutting journey times down to the country’s Adriatic coastline. The main bus station is centrally located by the main railway station in the centre of the city (Trg Osvobodilne fronte 4; tel: (090) 4230; website: www.ap-ljubljana.si). Services run to all major Slovenian towns and cities as well as outside the country to Austria, Croatia, Hungary, France, Germany, Belgium and Italy. Emergency breakdown service: Call 1987 Getting There By Rail Ljubljana Railway Station (}elezniska Postaja, Trg Osvobodilne fronte; tel: (01) 291 3332). This centrally located railway station offers domestic services to major Slovenian towns including Maribor and Celje as well as international connections to Venice, Zagreb, Budapest, Vienna, Salzburg and Belgrade. The national railway company is Slovenske }eleznice (tel: (01) 291 3332; website: www.slo-zeleznice.si), who have recently revamped much of their rolling stock. A new high-speed train to Venice has cut journey times by over an hour. Getting Around Public Transport City buses are run by LPP (Ljubljanski Potniaki Promet, Celovaka 160; tel: (01) 582 2420; website: www.lpp.si). They operate a fleet of single decker buses on 21 routes that crisscross the centre and also cover the suburbs. Standard hours are 0500-2230 and there are also night buses in operation. Passengers can pay when boarding though it is cheaper to buy tickets in the form of ~etoni (tokens, available at newspaper stands) beforehand. There are also weekly passes and discounts for children; under-fours travel for free. Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street or at ranks at the railway/bus station. Pre-booked taxis can be ordered from one of six taxi companies by calling 9700, 9701, 9702, 9703, 9707 or 9709. Car Hire Car hire companies have offices at the airport and at the city centre. Companies at the airport include Avis (tel: (04) 236 5000; website: www.avis-alpe.si), Budget (tel: (04) 201 4300; website: www.budget-slovenia.com) and Sixt (tel: (04) 234 4666; website: www.Alcom-lj.si), while in town there are offices of Avis (tel: (01) 430 8010; website: www.avis-alpe.si) and Hertz (tel: (01) 234 4646; website: www.hertz.si). Bicycle Hire Cycling is very popular in Ljubljana. Through the warmer months the tourist office organises bike tours and also gives out free bikes at Preaernov trg, Plečnikov trg and Trg Osvosbodilne. Etours, Kongresni trg (tel: (01) 426 9441) also rent out bikes. Business Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Ljubljana is an easy city to explore as most of the main sights are located within a compact area that includes the old town on the right bank of the Ljubljanica river and the centre on the left. The city’s castle harks high above the city, making it a good place to start, offering sweeping views of the city. The old town below is a cobbled warren of boutique shops, pavements cafes and restaurants and also houses the city’s dramatic cathedral and its daily market. Across the landmark Triple Bridge is the city’s main square, Preaernov Trg, which ushers in a wealth of art nouveau architecture, a major change from the old town’s baroque and medieval styles. With such a large student population, Ljubljana has a thriving cultural scene, which manifests itself in a flurry of galleries and museums, while away from the city’s cerebral attractions some of Europe’s most unspoilt and dramatic mountain scenery awaits. Tourist Information The city’s main tourist office is located on the old town side of the Triple Bridge (Stritarjeva; tel: (01) 306 1215; website: www.ljubljana-tourism.si). The helpful staff dispense information, hand out maps and brochures and there is also one terminal with free Internet access where visitors can check Hotmail and Yahoo accounts. The Ljubljana Card offers free or discounted entry to a number of attractions as well as free use of public transport. The Slovenian Tourist Office (Krekov trg; tel: (01) 306 4575; website: www.slovenia.info) offer information on the city and the country. They also have Internet terminals and rent out bikes. Key Attractions Preaernov trg Preaernov trg (Preaeren Square) is at the very heart of the city both historically and spiritually. The square boasts three river crossings, the landmark Frančiakansa Cerkev Marijinega Oznanjenja (Franciscan Church of the Annunciation) and a statue of seminal Slovenian poet France Preaeren. Ivan Zajec’s and Maks Fabiani’s dramatic monument to the man celebrated as the country’s greatest bard stands proud overlooking the scene. Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Castle hangs omnipresent above the city. There is a tourist train up here from Preaernov trg, but a better option is to walk up the steep slopes and savour the view of the city and surrounding mountains in the distance. From June to September, the castle’s history is bought to life by knowledgeable guides who lead visitors through the various halls, chapel and the dungeon. Year round, a hi-tech audiovisual show delves into the history of the city. Tel: (01) 232 9994. Website: www.festival-lj.si/virtualnimuzej Old Town Squares (Mestni trg, Stari trg and Gornji trg) These connecting squares, which hug the base of Castle Hill, ripple through the heart of the old town in a flurry of appealing baroque and medieval buildings. Many of the city’s most popular cafés, bars and restaurants are located in or around these long squares, which buzz with life. Ljubljanica The Ljubljanica may not be as impressive and grand as some of Europe’s great rivers, but what is often little more than a sleepy stream can churn into quite a lively rush of water after heavy rain or snow melts. Boat tours of the river recently started and now leave just across from Preaernov trg on the old town side with guided commentary. Moderna Galerija The Museum of Modern Art is one of Ljubljana’s true joys and lovers of avant garde art should make a beeline for this gallery and allow plenty of time. Even if your tastes are more traditional, it is well worth looking around for some interesting domestic artists and a variety of temporary exhibits. The museum is only a stone’s throw from the National Gallery. Tomaičeva 14 Tel: (01) 241 6800. Website: www.mg-lj.si Further Distractions Mestni Muzej The City Museum re-opened to much fanfare in 2004 in the Auersperg Palace, with myriad displays, children’s workshops, adult classes, as well as a congress hall and a relaxed café. The main permanent collections follow the evolution of the city, the Auersperg family and Ljubljana’s citizens. Gosposka 15 Tel: (01) 252 2930. Website: www.mm-lj.si Arhitekturni Muzej Plečnik The Architectural Museum Plečnik Collection, housed within the architect’s beloved Trnovo house, is a must for Plečnik devotees. The building, which Plečnik made his home for 40 years, now comes under the auspices of the Architectural Museum. Karunova 4 Tel: (01) 280 1600. Website: www.arhmuz.com Tours of the City The Ljubljana Tourist Office (Stritarjeva; tel: (01) 306 1215; website: www.ljubljana-tourism.si) organise bike tours of the city (free on Saturdays). They can also organise guided group tours and guides for individuals, though booking ahead is recommended. They also now run a small glass roofed cruise boat that plies the Ljubljanica in the summer months, offering trips with commentary on the main sights by day and at night ‘romantic’ cruises. The cruises run from a small pier by the old town and take in the stretch of river from the Dragon Bridge through to the suburb of Trnovo. A tourist train also runs up the castle from Preaernov trg in the summer months. Excursions Lake Bled, a 14,000 year old alpine lake an hour’s drive northwest of Ljubljana, is simply stunning, a glacial lake fringed by pine trees and vaulting peaks all around. It may bustle with tourists for much of the year and there are some unsightly developments dotted around the lake’s banks, but on a serene morning when the mists clear and the alpine peaks reflect across the water, it is hard not to be spellbound by Bled. The local Tourist Office, Svobode 10 (tel: (04) 574 1122; website: www.bled.si) can provide further information. A half hour’s drive west of Ljubljana, `kofja Loka boasts a well-preserved old town, where the local authorities have invested in English information plaques on buildings and made a real effort in recently revamping the castle’s museum. The most interesting streets are the rectangular ‘squares’ of Mestni trg, Cankarjev trg and Spodnji trg. The local Tourist Office, Mestni trg (tel: (04) 512 0268) can provide further information. Sport Shopping Ljubljana is a good city for shopping despite some frustrating opening hours. Slovenska, which dissects the city centre, with its big name shops and the Nama department store is a popular shopping boulevard. However, a far more pleasant experience is on offer in the Old Town squares of Stari trg, Mestni trg and Gornji trg, where medieval and baroque buildings house eclectic boutique shops selling everything from jewellery, perfume, shoes and clothes to traditional crafts and designer gear made in studios behind the stores. The right and left banks of the Ljubljanica River are also increasingly home to boutique stores and small art galleries. Thanks to a referendum held in September 2003, shops in the capital close at 1200 or 1300 on Saturday afternoons and do not open again until 0800 or 0900 on Monday morning, playing havoc with retail addict city breakers. Shop hours are usually 0900-1900 Mon-Fri and 0900-1300 Sat, although some shops may open and close an hour earlier. Culture Throughout the year, Ljubljana bustles with the arts, ranging from small scale street theatre right through to grand opera performances, classical music recitals and the granddaddy of them all, the Ljubljana Summer Festival. Ljubljana’s tourist offices hand out the free monthly Where to? leaflet, which gives a good listings rundown, as well as a free A4 sheet detailing events on a weekly basis. For more alternative and small scale events and happenings, ask in trendy bars like Café Maček or Galerija. Ljubljana has a decent supply of theatre venues that host a diverse range of performances. High quality acting and vivid productions often transcend the language barrier. Two key venues are the Café Teater, Mikloaičeva 2 (tel: (01) 252 7108; website: www.cafe-teater.si) and the massive Cankarjev Dom, Preaernova 10 (tel: (01) 241 7299; website: www.cd-cc.si), while in the warmer months outdoor Kri~anke, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1 (tel: (01) 252 6544) comes into its own. Nightlife Ljubljana’s large student population fuel an eclectic and buzzing nightlife scene when they are in town. In summer, tables burst out on to the banks of the Ljubljanica with Café Maček, Krojaaka 5, the place to see and be seen on the old town side and Kavarna Planet Pločnik, Preaernov trg, the place to be on the left bank. Super stylish Galerija, Mestni trg, is a favourite of the local beautiful people with its swish Ottoman décor and chic cocktails, while newcomer Opera Bar, Cankarjeva 12, brings a touch of Australian style to Ljubljana. The Cutty Sark, Knaflev prehod 1, is a bustling British-style bar, which is a firm favourite of the local ex-pat community and also a good place to meet locals. The club scene offers mainstream Global, Tomaičeva 1, with its views of the city skyline and restaurant as well as the alternative venue of Metelkova (website: www.metelkova.org), housed in an old military prison. Metelkova is also home to an eclectic array of concerts, while for jazz the Gajo Jazz Club, Beethovenova 8, is a reliable option. City Statistics Location: Slovenia, Central Europe. Country dialling code: 386. Time zone: GMT +1 (GMT +2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220V, 50Hz, continental two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temp: -1ŗC (30ŗF). Average July temp: 15ŗC (59ŗF). Annual rainfall: 1,350mm (53 inches). Special Events The Tercets of Trnovo, Feb, a three-day festival of poetry held at the KUD France Preaeren cultural centre Slovenian Musical Days, April, showcase of contemporary music Exodus, May, annual festival of contemporary performing arts, main venue Cankarjev Dom (website: www.exodos-festival.si) Druga Godba, Jun, the Kri~anke Theatre is the main venue for five days of alternative and eclectic concerts by international performers (website: www.drugagodba.si) Ljubljana Summer Festival, Jul-Aug, Ljubljana’s stages fill with performers from around the world and the city’s population swells (website: www.festival-lj.si) Ljubljana Marathon, Oct (website: http://marathon.slo-timing.com) Ljubljana International Film Festival, Nov, more than 100 films from around the world are screened across the city (website: www.ljubljanafilmfestival.org) Xmas market, throughout December, by the banks of the Ljubljanica Cost of Living 1,000 Slovenia Tolars (1,000 SIT) = £2.84; US$4.98; C$5.81; A$6.55; ¬4.18 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |