World City Guide

Vast, vibrant and truly multicultural, London is one of the world’s great cities. Located in the southeast of England, on the River Thames, it is the capital of the United Kingdom (UK) and has been the heart of its political, cultural and business life for centuries. The now sprawling metropolis is a far cry from the scrabble of dwellings that first sprouted up to house river traders during their voyages towards the sea. It was the Romans who really kick-started the city, by establishing ‘Londinium’ as an important fortress town, guarding the Thames and protecting against any Celtic tribes trying to invade the then untamed island. The Romans brought with them forts, roads and the rule of law, prompting Roman historian Tacitus to boast of an AD60 city ‘filled with travellers and a celebrated centre of commerce.’

Over the centuries, London has developed and expanded, despite the many dangers that might have defeated a lesser place – the Great Plague, the Great Fire, the bitter English Civil War and even a plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament. But most recently and resiliently, London and its citizens survived the German Luftwaffe attempts to bomb the city to oblivion during the World War II ‘Blitz’.

Nowadays, the sheer scale of Greater London can be daunting at first, as it sprawls 1,500sq km (580 square miles) across a voluminous plain. However, it is a city that is surprisingly easy to get around, with the comprehensive and easily navigated London Underground or ‘Tube’. The twin axis on which London rests is the Houses of Parliament to the west and the City of London to the east. The seat of government (not far from the home of the royal family) is connected to the City (the financial engine room of London and the whole of the UK) by the River Thames. In between lie most of the tourist attractions and the busiest, liveliest different entertainment areas, such as Knightsbridge and Soho. But London’s vivacity and charm stretches far beyond the Circle Line – the Underground route that rings the inner city. Residential areas outside the city centre, such as leafy Richmond (southwest) or Hampstead (north), trendy Hoxton (east) or Notting Hill (west), each have their own beating heart.

And as the population of London pushes inexorably towards the ten million mark, the city continues to grow and thrive. Home to 37 distinct immigrant groups, each consisting of more than 10,000 people, this is a city where some 300 languages are spoken. This very real multiculturalism is evident on every street (and many restaurant plates) and is a key reason why people love the city. Tourists come for London’s history or London’s royal pageantry but they return for all the charms of the modern London, not least the extraordinary breadth of London’s cultural life, with world-class art galleries and theatres, buzzing nightlife, film, music, culinary and fashion scenes. Overseeing the whole lot is Mayor Ken Livingstone, who was elected in 2000. Keen to make an impact on the city, various strategies have been developed and quickly implemented – for example, the controversial plan for congestion charging on the inner city roads, which is already a successful reality. But the city skyline is the place where the London’s rapid change and optimism is most visible – the Docklands and the City (with its now famous ‘Gherkin’ tower) have shot up over the last few years.

After an enthusiastic campaign endorsed by many sporting celebrities and fervently supported by the majority of residents, London has just won the bid to host the Olympic Games in 2012, which is bound to have a significant impact on the future of the city in terms of both tourism and investment.

During summer, London’s bountiful green spaces fill up with office workers and tourists enjoying the surprisingly balmy days as café tables sprout across a multitude of pavements. During winter, the grey skies and rain can be forgotten for a while in numerous cosy pubs. But spring or autumn are probably the best seasons to visit the city, when clear crisp sunny days often illuminate London and its landmarks, old and new.

Getting There By Air

London Heathrow Airport (LHR)
Tel: (0870) 000 0123. Fax: (020) 8745 4290.
Website: www.baa.co.uk

Heathrow, 24km (15 miles) west of central London, is one of the world’s busiest international airports, coping with over 63 million passengers every year. The airport is massive, with terminals one to three linked to terminal four by the Heathrow Express and London Underground services. After a 10-year deliberation and some fierce opposition, plans to build a fifth terminal were approved in 2001 and there is currently talk of a new runway as well.

Major airlines: British Airways (tel: (0870) 850 9850; website: www.britishairways.com) operates both national and international flights from Heathrow. There are approximately 90 airlines that operate in and out of Heathrow, serving about 170 destinations worldwide. These include Air Canada, Air France, Alitalia, Cathay Pacific, Gulf Air, Iberia, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, South African Airways, United Airlines and Virgin Atlantic. All domestic flights operate from terminal one.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bureaux de change, ATMs, airport information, hotel reservation and travel information desks, post offices in terminals two and four, left-luggage, showers, telephones and fax machines, shops, duty-free outlets, restaurants, cafés, bars and a London Tourist Board centre in the London Underground station. There is Internet access available in terminal four. There is also car hire available in all four terminals, from Avis, Europcar, Hertz, National and Thrifty.

Business facilities: The Business Centre Heathrow (tel: (020) 8759 2434; website: www.the-bch.co.uk) is located in the Queen’s Building, between terminals one and two. Open Monday to Friday 0730-1900, it offers 20 meeting rooms and a conference suite, as well as a communications centre with computers with Internet access, faxes, photocopiers, audiovisual equipment and even showers.

Transport to the city: The Heathrow Express (tel: (0845) 600 1515; website: www.heathrowexpress.co.uk) train service to Paddington station operates every 15 minutes Mon-Sat 0507-2401 and Sun 0503-2401 from terminal four (journey time – 23 minutes) and Mon-Sat 0503-2401 and Sun 0508-2408 from terminals one, two and three (journey time – 15 minutes). Single tickets cost £14, while a return ticket costs £26. Tickets can be purchased from Heathrow Express desks or self-service ticket kiosks located at the station; tickets are also available for purchase on the train, for a £2 premium, or online, with a 10% discount.

The airport is also on the London Underground Piccadilly line (tel: (0845) 330 9880 or (020) 7222 1234; website: www.tfl.gov.uk). Trains operate Mon-Sat 0500-2345 and Sun 0545-2315. Tickets to the city centre cost £3.80 (journey time – 45 minutes). Please note that until Sep 2006, the underground station at Terminal 4 is closed while the Picadilly line is extended to Terminal 5 (currently under construction). A replacement bus service is in use from Hatton Cross. Allow extra time for your journey.

There is also a Central Bus Station at Heathrow, where the main bus service to central London is operated by National Express (tel: (0870) 575 7747; website: www.nationalexpress.com). Tickets cost £4 for a single and £8 for a return. At night, the N9 night bus service goes to central London every 30 minutes (journey time – 50 minutes) and costs £1. 20.

Speedlink (tel: (0870) 575 7747; website: www.speedlink.co.uk) coaches link Heathrow and Gatwick airports (journey time – 70 minutes) daily approximately 0500-2230. A single ticket costs £17. Coaches also run from Heathrow Airport to Victoria. A single ticket is £10, return £15.

The Airport Travel Line (tel: (0870) 574 7777) provides coach transport information. The Travel Line (tel: (0870) 608 2608) can provide information on all public transport to and from London.
Taxis are readily available and cost around £45 for a journey to the city centre (depending on traffic conditions and time of day).

London Gatwick Airport (LGW)
Tel: (0870) 000 2468.
Website: www.baa.co.uk

Gatwick, 45km (28 miles) south of central London, is the second busiest international airport in the UK, serving over 29 million passengers a year. The free Inter Terminal Transit train links the two terminals (north and south).

Major airlines: British Airways (tel: (0845) 850 9850; website: www.britishairways.com) operates both national and international flights from Gatwick. Over 90 other airlines also use Gatwick airport, serving over 200 destinations worldwide. These include Alitalia, American Airlines, Britannia Airways, easyJet and Virgin Atlantic.

Airport facilities: Both terminals have bureaux de change, ATMs, airport information desks, showers, left luggage facilities, shops, duty-free outlets, restaurants and bars. There is also a post office and an Internet café situated in the south terminal. Both terminals have car hire from Avis, Europcar, Hertz, National and Thrifty.

Business facilities: The airport provides a Fast Track priority service for business-class travellers, as well as a full range of business services at the Hilton London Gatwick Airport Hotel (tel: (01293) 518 080) and Le Meridien London Gatwick Hotel (tel: (01293) 567 070).

Transport to the city: The Gatwick Express (tel: (0845) 850 1530; website: www.gatwickexpress.co.uk) train service to Victoria station operates every 15 or 30 minutes (depending on the time of day) daily 0435-0135 (journey time – 30 minutes). Single tickets cost £13, while a return ticket costs £24. Other, slower trains also run to Victoria (stopping at East Croydon and Clapham en route). Alternative train services by Thameslink (tel: (0845) 748 4950; website: www.thameslink.co.uk) to King’s Cross Thameslink operate daily approximately every 15 minutes during peak hours, with a reduced service at night (journey time – 45-50 minutes). A single ticket costs £10. Coaches depart from the ground floor of the south terminal.

Speedlink coaches, operated by National Express (tel: (0870) 575 7747; website: www.nationalexpress.com) link Gatwick and Heathrow airports (journey time – 70 minutes) daily approximately 0500-2230. A single ticket costs £17.50. Coaches also run from Gatwick Airport to Victoria. A single ticket is £6.20, return £11.40.

The Travel Line (tel: (0870) 608 2608) can provide information on all public transport to and from London. Chauffeur-driven cars are provided by Checker Cars (tel: (01293) 502 808 (south terminal) or 501 377 (north terminal); fax: (01293) 569 790). Taxis are readily available and a trip to the centre of London costs around £77 for a journey time of approximately one hour and 30 minutes, depending on traffic conditions.

London Stansted Airport (STN)
Tel: (0870) 000 0303. Fax: (01279) 662 066.
Website: www.baa.co.uk

This impressively modern and user-friendly airport is an expanding hub for the increasingly popular budget airlines, which offer cut-price flights to many cities across Europe. One of Europe’s fastest growing airports, Stansted is located 48km (30 miles) northeast of central London and serves 16 million passengers per year.

Major airlines: Scheduled flights to over 100 destinations are offered by over 25 airlines. The budget airline Ryanair (tel: (0871) 246 0000; website: www.ryanair.com) dominates the Stansted skies, with over 60 destinations covered. The other key low-cost carrier, serving around 20 destinations, is easyJet (tel: (0870) 600 0000; website: www.easyjet.com).

Airport facilities: Newly renovated and expanded facilities include bureaux de change, ATMs, left-luggage, airport information, hotel reservation desk, shops, duty-free outlets, restaurants, bars and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: Meeting rooms are available for hire from easymeeting (tel: (01279) 662 570), in Enterprise House, situated next to the main terminal building. Broadband wireless Internet access is available from BT Openzone (website: www.bt.com/openzone) situated in the departure lounge. A one-hour pass costs £6.

Transport to the city: The Stansted Express (tel: (0845) 850 0150; website: www.stanstedexpress.co.uk) train service to Liverpool Street station operates daily 0530-2430, departing every 15 or 30 minutes, depending on the time of day (journey time – 45 minutes). Single tickets cost £13, while a return ticket costs £24.

The main coach service to central London is the A6 Airbus (tel: (0870) 575 7747; website: www.nationalexpress.com), which travels to Victoria coach station every 30 minutes, 24 hours a day (journey time – 1 hour 45 minutes). Tickets cost £10 for a single and £15 for a return.

The Airport Travel Line (tel: (0870) 574 7777) provides further coach transport information. The Travel Line (tel: (0870) 608 2608) can provide information on all public transport to and from London. Taxis are usually available at the airport or can be telephoned; Airport Carz (tel: (0870) 224 5000) charge around £80 for the 60-minute (depending on traffic and conditions) journey to central London.

London Luton Airport (LTN)
Tel: (01582) 405 100.
E-mail: info@london-luton.co.uk
Website: www.london-luton.co.uk

The UK’s seventh largest airport is 52km (32 miles) north of central London. Luton served 6.5 million passengers in 2001.

Major airlines: Luton serves over 60 destinations and is the base for Britannia Airways (tel: (0870) 607 6757; website: www.britanniaairways.com) and the popular low-cost airline easyJet (tel: (0870) 600 0000; website: www.easyjet.com). Other airlines include Monarch Airlines and Ryanair.

Airport facilities: The airport has bureaux de change, ATMs, several information kiosks, shops, duty-free outlets, restaurants, bars and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: The Aviance Executive Lounge (tel: (01582) 700 898) is located in the international departure lounge. Facilities include fax, telephone, e-mail and Internet.

Transport to the city: Thameslink (tel: (0845) 748 4950; website: www.thameslink.co.uk) provides a fast link (approximately 30-40 minutes) to King’s Cross Thameslink from the Luton Airport Parkway station. A free shuttle bus connects Luton Airport with the Parkway station. Trains operate daily approximately every 15-30 minutes, with a reduced service on weeknights. A single ticket costs £10.70.

Greenline 757 (tel: (0870) 608 7261; website: www.greenline.co.uk) operates a coach service to Victoria coach station, departing every 30-60 minutes 24 hours a day (journey time – 60-90 minutes). Tickets cost £8 for a single. The Travel Line (tel: (0870) 608 2608) provides further information on travel to London.

Taxis are available 24 hours and cost approximately £60 for a journey to central London.

London City Airport (LCY)
Tel: (020) 7646 0088.
E-mail: info@londoncityairport.com
Website: www.londoncityairport.com

The business-orientated London City Airport is the most central of the capital’s airports, located just 10km (6 miles) east of the City of London. The airport is relatively small, with only 15 airlines. However, 1.6 million passengers travel through the airport each year.

Major airlines: Lufthansa (tel: (0845) 773 7747; website: www.lufthansa.com) operates the majority of flights from London City Airport, with four connections to Frankfurt per day. Other major airlines are Air France, British Airways and KLM UK. Scheduled flights are also provided by Luxair, ScotAirways and VLM.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, information and hotel reservation desks, postal facilities, duty-free shopping, restaurants, bars, and car hire from Avis, Europcar and Hertz.

Business facilities: The Meridian Business Centre (tel: (020) 7646 0900; fax: (020) 7476 3727; e-mail: meridian@londoncityairport.com) offers fully serviced conference suites and office space for hire.

Transport to the city: There are two airport shuttle buses, which operate Monday to Friday approximately 0600-2100, Saturday 0600-1300 and Sunday 1100-2100. The green shuttle bus runs to Canning Town station (journey time – five minutes), costing £3. Canning Town is served by London Underground (tel: (0845) 330 9880 or (020) 7222 1234; website: www.thetube.com), as well as Silverlink Metro (tel: (0845) 601 4867; website: www.silverlink-trains.com). The blue bus runs to Canary Wharf (journey time – 10 minutes) and Liverpool Street station (journey time – 30 minutes), with tickets costing £3.50 and £6 respectively. Canary Wharf and Liverpool Street are both on the London Underground network.

There is a stand with licensed black taxis, located directly outside the terminal building. Fares to central London start from £20-25. The Travel Line (tel: (0870) 608 2608) provides further information on all transport to and from London.

Approximate flight times to London: From New York is 7 hours 40 minutes; from Los Angeles is 10 hours 20 minutes; from Toronto is 7 hours and from Sydney is 23 hours 5 minutes (plus stopover).

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Getting There By Water

London is served by international ferry ports on the south and east coasts of England, including Dover, Newhaven and Harwich. Since the 1980s, the city itself has become a summer cruise destination and cruise ships dock at the London Cruise Terminal, in the Port of Tilbury. Facilities here include tourist information, a coffee shop and a bureau de change. There are also smaller London Central Cruise Moorings, based either around Tower Bridge or at Greenwich. The Port of London Authority (tel: (020) 7743 7900; website: www.portoflondon.co.uk) can provide further information.

Ferry services: The main route across the Channel is Dover-Calais; services are operated by P&O Ferries (tel: (0870) 600 0611; website: www.poferries.com), SeaFrance (tel: (0870) 571 1711; website: www.seafrance.co.uk) and Hoverspeed (tel: (0870) 240 8070; website: www.hoverspeed.com). Services from Harwich go to the Hook of Holland by Stena Line (tel: (0870) 570 7070; website: www.stenaline.com) and to Hamburg and Esjberg by DFDS Scandinavian Seaways (tel: (0870) 533 3000/3111; website: www.dfdsseaways.co.uk). Newhaven-Dieppe services are operated by Hoverspeed.

Transport to the city: Rail transport from Dover and Newhaven is provided by South East Trains (tel: (0870) 603 0405; website: www.setrains.co.uk) to Victoria station. One Railway (tel: (0845) 600 7245; website: www.onerailway.com) run services from Harwich to Liverpool Street station. National Rail Enquiries (tel: (0845) 748 4950) can give information on all services.

Getting There By Road

Main roads are designated by a letter, followed by up to four numbers: ‘M’ (motorway), ‘A’ (major road) and ‘B’ (minor road). Traffic drives on the left and drivers must be at least 18 years old. The speed limits are 113kph (70mph) on motorways, 97kph (60mph) on single-lane main roads and 48kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Seat belts are compulsory for drivers, front-seat passengers and rear-seat passengers (if fitted). Motorcyclists must wear helmets. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%.

Overseas driving licences and International Driving Permits are valid for up to one year. Insurance is mandatory. Overseas visitors bringing their own cars should bring registration documents and check with their insurance company as to whether a Green Card is needed. Breakdown service and general motoring information is available from the Automobile Association – AA (tel: (0870) 600 0371; website: www.theaa.co.uk), Green Flag (tel: (0845) 246 1557; website: www.greenflag.co.uk) and the Royal Automobile Club – RAC (tel: (0870) 572 2722; website: www.rac.co.uk).

Emergency breakdown services (toll free):
AA (0800) or (08457) 887 766
Green Flag (0800) 400 600
RAC (0800) 828 282

Routes to the city: The M25 encircles Greater London. The M1, M11, M20, M23, M3, M4 and M40 radiate from the capital to the rest of Britain. The M1 goes north all the way to Leeds, the M11 northeast to Cambridge and East Anglia, the M20 southeast to Folkestone (from where the A20 continues to Dover), the M23 goes south to Gatwick airport (and continues as the A23 to Brighton), the M3 southwest to Southampton, the M4 west to Heathrow airport and Bristol, and the M40 northwest to Oxford and Birmingham.

Motorists and their cars can travel by train through the Channel Tunnel from Calais, France to Folkestone in southeast England, courtesy of Eurotunnel (tel: (0870) 535 3535; website: www.eurotunnel.co.uk).

Approximate driving times to London: From Cambridge – 1 hour 30 minutes; Oxford – 1 hour 30 minutes; Folkestone – 1 hour 45 minutes; Birmingham – 2 hours 15 minutes; Bristol – 2 hours 45 minutes; Leeds – 4 hours.

Coach services: National and international services use Victoria Coach Station, a short walk from Victoria train station, at 164 Buckingham Palace Road, SW1 (tel: (020) 7730 3466; website: www.tfl.gov.uk/vcs). Facilities include bureaux de change, ATMs, travel and hotel agencies, information desks, left-luggage office and kiosks. National Express (tel: (0870) 580 8080; website: www.nationalexpress.com) operates services throughout the UK. Eurolines (tel: (0870) 514 3219; website: www.eurolines.com) has departures to over 500 European destinations.

Getting There By Rail

The British railway network has a bad reputation at the moment – delays, cancellations and poor travelling conditions are common, while fares (particularly on routes via London) are among the highest in Europe. Actual train services are provided by a number of independent operators, while Network Rail (tel: (020) 7557 8000; website: www.networkrail.co.uk) is now the company responsible for the infrastructure and the track. The company also owns all the stations but manages only the 17 biggest. In an attempt to avoid the disaster of their predecessor, Railtrack, Network Rail is a Company Limited by Guarantee with no shareholders, where all profit is reinvested into the railways.

Railway information is available 24 hours from National Rail Enquiries (tel: (0845) 748 4950; website: www.nationalrail.co.uk). London has numerous major stations. These all become very crowded during rush hour (Monday to Friday 0800-0930 and 1700-1830), when services struggle to cope with the sheer volume of passengers. The major national stations in London are Victoria (southwest), Paddington (west), Euston and Kings Cross (north), Liverpool Street (east), Waterloo (south) and Charing Cross (central). Station facilities differ but most include ATMs, bureaux de change, shops, cafés and pubs. Tickets should be purchased at the station (from ticket desks and machines) before boarding.

Rail services: Eurostar (tel: (0870) 518 6186 or (01233) 617 575 (from outside the UK); website: www.eurostar.com) services from Avignon, Calais, Brussels, Lille, Paris-Gare du Nord and Disneyland Paris travel via the English Channel to Waterloo station. Tickets are available at the station, from the Eurostar Call Centre or online (see above). Eurostar is extremely convenient and, once time travelling to and from the airport and spent checking in has been taken into account, is usually quicker than flying (approximate journey time to Paris – 3 hours). The construction of the Channel Tunnel Rail Link, connecting King’s Cross station with Paris (estimated journey time – 2 hours 20 minutes) is well under way; completion is due in 2007.

The main London terminals serve different regions of the country, as follows: Euston and King’s Cross for the Midlands, the north of England and Scotland; Liverpool Street for East Anglia; Paddington for Heathrow airport, the West Country, South Wales and the Midlands; Victoria for Gatwick airport and the southeast; and Waterloo for the south coast and the continent. There are also numerous regional stations, including Blackfriars, Charing Cross, London Bridge, Marylebone, St Pancras, Stratford and Clapham Junction (the busiest station in the UK). Overnight sleeper trains, run by First Scotrail (tel: (0845) 755 0033; website: www.firstscotrail.com), connect Euston with the Scottish destinations of Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Fort William, Aberdeen and Dundee. National Rail Enquiries (see above) can provide information on all services, including journey prices, times and duration.

Transport to the city: All railway stations are on the London Underground network. Two express bus routes, 205 and 705, cover the major railway stations, with limited key stops in between, often at regional train stations. Both bus routes operate between Paddington to Liverpool Street. Route 205 stops at Marylebone, Euston and Kings Cross St Pancras and operates every 15 minutes daily approximately 0500-2430. Route 705 stops at Victoria (coach and train stations), Waterloo and London Bridge and operates every 30 minutes daily approximately 0800-2000. Tickets cost £1.20 per trip.

Licensed London taxis are readily available from ranks outside all major railway stations. The London Travel Information line (tel: (020) 7222 1234; website: www.tfl.gov.uk) provides information on all the city’s transport.

Getting Around

Transport for London (tel: (020) 7222 1234 (24-hour enquiries); website: www.tfl.gov.uk) provides comprehensive information on all forms of transport within London, as well as operating the buses. For information specifically aimed at tourists visiting London, log on http://tube.tfl.gov.uk/content/faq/tourism/introduction.asp: as well as maps and journey planners, this part of the TFL site contains all the necessary information about using the tube and it is been made available in different languages. TFL has recently introduced Oyster, the prepaid system that entitles residents to various discounts, if you are planning a long stay in London (a month or over), enquire at a tube station for details. London’s famous red ‘Routemaster’ double-decker buses are slowly being superseded by more modern single and double deckers. There is now only one fare zone for all buses. Flat fare of £1.20 applies for adults on all buses and trams. You can buy a carnet of six tickets in advance from newsagents and tube stations for £6, bringing the cost of each journey down to £1, or a one-day bus pass for £3. Tickets have to be bought prior to boarding and there is a £5 fine for travelling without a valid ticket. Services operate 24 hours a day, with night buses, prefixed by the letter ‘N’, replacing the standard services on most routes after midnight. Fares on night buses are the same as regular buses. There are also three tram routes at the moment in the Croydon area; it is fairly unlikely that visitors will use these, however, a Cross-River tram from Camden to Brixton via central London is planned for completion in 2011.

The London Underground (tel: (0845) 330 9880 or (020) 7222 1234; website: www.tfl.gov.uk/tube/), commonly referred to as the ‘Tube’, is the oldest and most extensive underground system in the world and pervades both the life and layout of London. An on-going programme is replacing old rolling stock, modernising stations and improving efficiency, however, escalator and station closures are still a regular problem. Despite the Mayor of London’s opposition, the system will now be partly privatised, with a 30-year investment deal underway as part of the PPP (Public Private Partnership). The network consists of 12 underground lines, each with a different name and colour, supplemented by the Docklands Light Railway (website: www.tfl.gov.uk/dlr), connecting the City of London and the Docklands. The entire network is divided into six concentric zones, which determine the price of tickets. Within the city centre (zone one) a single ticket costs £2.00, while to travel from zone one to other zones costs from £2.30 (to go to zone two) to £3.80 (to go to zone six). Carnets of 10 zone-one-only tickets cost £17.00. Tickets should be purchased at the station and must be passed through the barrier ticket gates in order for the passenger to enter and leave the system (and avoid a £10 penalty fare). The London Underground operates daily approximately 0530-2430 but should be avoided (where possible) during rush hour (Monday to Friday 0800-0930 and 1700-1830) when it is extremely crowded.

Various regional and commuter rail services, such as Silverlink Metro (tel: (0845) 601 4867; website: www.silverlink-trains.com) and Thameslink (tel: (0845) 748 4950; website: www.thameslink.co.uk), run between numerous stations in the capital and often cover routes not served by the London Underground.

There are a number of passes available, including the One-day Travelcard, which can be used on buses and London Underground. This costs £4.70 off peak (only valid after 0930) and £6 peak (valid from 0001). Both are valid all night until 0430 the next morning. A 3-day Travelcard, which is valid on any three consecutive days, costs £15 (peak). Prices quoted are for zones one and two only. Travelcards including other zones cost more. The One-day Bus Pass is only valid on buses (zones one to four) and costs £3. Weekly, monthly and annual passes must be accompanied by a photocard. All passes, as well as carnets for bus or London Underground, are available for purchase at Tube stations and participating newsagents.

There are a number of transport services operating on the River Thames. Thames Clippers, commuter ferries running between Savoy Pier (central at Embankment) and Masthouse Terrace (east of Greenwich) are operated by Collins River Enterprises (tel: (020) 7977 6892; website: www.thamesclippers.com). A single trip costs £3.80 (concessions are available). The River Taxi Service, operated by Connoisseur Charters (tel: (020) 7352 5888; website: www.connoisseur.co.uk), is a high-speed commuter service from Chelsea Harbour in the west to Blackfriars; a separate river bus also continues on to Greenland Pier (Greenwich). A single from Chelsea to the Savoy costs £4. This service only operates for commuters on weekdays, in the morning and evening. Full details of all river ferries can be obtained from Transport for London (see above).

Tickets for the various services available are available for purchase on board. Interested visitors can trace the history and development of the city’s transport system at the London Transport Museum in The Piazza, at Covent Garden (tel: (020) 7379 6344 or 7565 7299; website: www.ltmuseum.co.uk).

Taxis
London’s distinctive black taxi cabs are a pleasant (if pricey) way of getting around the city, as well as meeting the legendary ‘cabbies’. Fares start at £2.20 and go up in increments of £0.20. The lowest tariff is in effect Monday to Friday 0600-2000 (except public holidays). Tariffs are higher 2000-2200 weekdays and up to 2200 on Saturdays and Sundays and then even higher 2200-0600 every day. Visit www.transportforlondon.gov.uk/pco/taxi_fares.shtml for more fares information. Increased rates at night were introduced to get more cabs on the street, which has worked, although longer journeys can now be prohibitively expensive. A tip of 10-15% to ‘round up’ the bill is customary. Each taxi has a licence number and badged drivers must comply with official regulations. London cabbies have undergone intensive training (known as the ‘Knowledge’) which involves riding around London on a moped learning all the street names, followed by a gruelling examination.

Black cabs can be booked through Dial-a-Cab (tel: (020) 7251 0581 or (020) 7426 3420; website: www.dialacab.co.uk) and Radio Taxis (tel: (020) 7272 0272; website: www.radiotaxis.co.uk). London taxi drivers’ unsurpassed understanding of the city has been tapped by Black Taxi Tours (tel: (020) 7935 9363; website: www.blacktaxitours.co.uk), London sightseeing tours in a black cab. Any complaints about black cabs should be directed to the Public Carriage Office, 15 Penton Street, London N1 9PU (tel: (020) 7941 7800).

Minicabs (usually standard saloon cars) can be booked over the telephone or direct from local offices throughout London. One particularly efficient and reputable city-wide firm is Addison Lee (tel: (020) 7387 8888; website: www.addisonlee.co.uk). Although generally cheaper than black cabs, there are numerous illegal and/or unscrupulous operators, so it is always wise for travellers to check that the company is registered. In particular, offers of lifts by unlicensed drivers off the street, late at night in the West End or anywhere else for that matter, should not be accepted.

Transport for London (tel: (020) 7222 1234; website: www.tfl.gov.uk) can provide a list of licensed private hire companies, as well as information on black taxis.

Limousines
Chauffeur-driven luxury cars can be hired from several companies, including Carey Worldwide Chauffeur Services (tel: (020) 7235 0234; website: www.ecarey.com) and London Chauffeur Drive (tel: (020) 7633 9410; website: www.lcd.uk.com). On average, stretch limousines cost about £55 (plus VAT) per hour, while a car with chauffeur starts from £30 per hour.

Driving in the City
London infamous congestion charge (tel: (0845) 900 1234; website: www.cclondon.com) came into force in February 2003. There is now a daily charge of £5 for all vehicles entering the central London congestion charging zone Monday to Friday between 0700 and 1830. This will go up to £8 from July 4, 2005. The boundary line of the zone is the Inner Ring Road, which covers Marylebone Road, Euston Road, Pentonville Road, City Road, Commercial Street, Mansell Street, Tower Bridge, New Kent Road, Kennington Lane, Vauxhall Bridge Road and Park Lane (clockwise from northwest point). This is clearly marked on roads and signposts.

The £5 congestion charge can be paid in advance or any time before or (up to 2200 on the day). Payment can be made by post in advance or instantly online, by telephone, at BT Internet kiosks and at selected shops, car parks and petrol stations displaying the ‘C’ sign. Drivers will need their vehicle registration number. If registered, it is possible for drivers to pay up to one year in advance and also by SMS/text message. The charge goes up to £10 if paying between 2200 and 2400 on the day, however, drivers who fail to pay before 2400 will be issued with a penalty charge notice for £80 (reduced to £40 for payment with 14 days), which will increase to £120 if not paid within 28 days.

The attempt to reduce congestion has been fairly successful and there are plans to extend the congestion charging zone. However, the M25 ring motorway and major routes into and out of the city are often at a standstill, particularly on Friday and Sunday evenings.

Off-road parking is available 24 hours at NCP garages (tel: (0870) 606 7050; website: www.ncp.co.uk) situated around the city. The tariffs vary, however, from garage to garage. The cheapest NCP garage in London can be found at the Brunswick Centre, Marchmont Street, WC1, with prices here ranging between £4.50 for up to two hours and rising to £14 for nine to 24 hours. Street parking in central London can be extremely expensive. Meters, pay-and-display bays or resident’s parking bays operate throughout central London. Visitors should read the signs extremely carefully for the operating hours of the different bays and note that, although a pay space might only operate up to 1830, the adjacent resident’s parking bays could require permits 24 hours a day. Parking on a single yellow line is prohibited within the hours of operation of the nearest meter or pay-and-display bay. Parking within any area marked with a zigzag or double yellow line is prohibited. On a red line, or a double red line, even stopping is forbidden. The penalty charge for illegal parking is a £100 fine (reduced to £50 for payment with 14 days), however, wheel-clamping and impounding vehicles, both of which incur additional fines, are not uncommon.

Cheap and improved bus services in the capital combined with the congestion charge and high parking charges mean that visitors are much better off using public transport than they are driving in central London.

Car Hire
Regulations vary but car hire companies usually require drivers to be around 25 years or older. A foreign national driving licence is valid in Britain for one year, although an International Driving Permit may be preferred if the licence is not in English. A credit card is essential and it is important for one to check what level of insurance is included in the price of car hire.

All major car firms have locations all over the city, including Avis (tel: (0870) 606 0100; website: www.avis.co.uk), Budget (tel: (0870) 156 5656; website: www.budget.co.uk) and Hertz (tel: (0870) 599 6699; website: www.hertz.co.uk). Rates start from approximately £40 per day. The London congestion charge does apply to all hire cars and drivers will usually be liable for this, in addition to the price quoted for hiring a car. Car hire companies vary but most do not even arrange the payment of the charge and leave it up to drivers to sort this out independently (see Driving in the City).

There has been a recent growth in budget/Internet car hire companies, spearheaded by easyCar (tel: (0906) 333 3333; website: www.easycar.com), the first Internet-only car hire company with prices starting from just £8.50 per day. The easyCar depot at the Barbican is one of the only places in central London where the congestion charge is included in the price of hiring a car.

Bicycle Hire
Both bicycles and motorcycles avoid the congestion charge (as well as traffic and parking charges), so they are sensible modes of transport in London. Mayor Ken Livingstone is trying to make London bicycle friendly and there are many new cycle paths and cycle routes throughout the city. The London Bicycle Tour Company, 1A Gabriel’s Wharf, 56 Upper Ground SE1 (tel: (020) 7928 6838; website: www.londonbicycle.com), hires out bicycles for £3 per hour, £16 per day or £45 per week.

Although About Town Motorcycle and Scooter Hire (tel: (020) 8871 1112; website: www.abouttownbikehire.co.uk) is based in Wandsworth, in the southwest of the city, motorcycles or scooters will be delivered to all London hotels. Prices start from £40/45 per day or £120/145 per week for a scooter/motorcycle, with a deposit of £250 required.

Business

Business Profile
At £162 billion, London's economy accounts for 17% of the UK's GDP. Known as ‘the City’, the square mile located on the eastern side of central London, the City of London, is the epicentre of British financial life and one of the world’s leading international financial centres. It boasts an impressive concentration and variety of banks, insurance companies and other business services. In fact, financial and business services throughout London employ around a third of the Greater London workforce. Over the last few years, the British government has delegated greater responsibility to the Bank of England (website: www.bankofengland.co.uk), while the London Stock Exchange (website: www.londonstockexchange.com) has floated itself.

However, the City and the stock market in particular suffered badly in 2002, continuing into 2003. The September 11 terrorist attacks and the war in Iraq have had an impact on investor confidence and the stock market has reached a six-year low. Major companies seem to be feeling the pinch, which has a knock-on effect on jobs. Beyond the financial heart of London, law, computing, design, media, arts and fashion are all struggling to avoid the global slump, with the advertising sector being worst hit.

After a record year for tourism in 2000, the Foot and Mouth epidemic and the September 11 terrorist attacks hit the industry badly in 2001. Tourists, however, came back to London in 2002 and in 2003, despite the war in Iraq, 28 millions visited the capital. London accounts for just under 50% of all overseas visits to the UK (11.6 million in 2002, with direct visitor expenditure equalling £5.8 billion). The tourism sector employs approximately 350,000 people, accounting for 10% of all jobs in London.

London is Europe's most successful city at attracting overseas companies, and there are currently 13,510 overseas owned companies from 92 countries in the capital. The list of companies based in London is almost endless as most major international companies have offices here, including IBM, Sun Microsystems and Warburgs. London in the 1980s and 1990s saw a decline in production and manufacturing jobs and a growth in the service sector. However, strengths remain in modern product-based manufacturing (specialist firms producing niche products) and high-tech companies. New light industry parks have sprung up out of town, although many businesses (such as computing) still prefer to stay closer to the City. For the more fashionable industries, such as media and design, a West End address is the most sought after, especially one in Soho. To the east of the City, the Docklands has come of age and is now a credible and popular business location with good public transport links and modern office complexes. The centrepiece is Canary Wharf, Britain’s tallest building, which has been joined recently by two neighbouring skyscrapers. A stone's throw away from Canary Wharf, the state-of-the-art ExCel is increasingly giving traditional conference venues a run for their money, with the world’s largest travel exhibition, World Travel Market, now calling ExCel home.

Unemployment in Greater London is low by European standards but slightly higher than the UK average at 6.6% (2002 annual rate) compared to a national average of 5.2% (2002 annual rate).

Business Etiquette
Business hours are officially Monday to Friday 0900 or 0930 until 1700 or 1730, although in practice many companies have much longer hours. Business in London is intense and fast paced. Extended business lunches and post-work drinks were regarded as part of the modern working environment until relatively recently. Nowadays, the emphasis is increasingly on hard work and long hours. Some older establishments could be strictly formal, however, meetings are (as a rule) relatively relaxed and first names are often used after the initial introduction. However, British businesspeople are unlikely to be overtly demonstrative – hand gestures and the use of expressive body language will be minimal and apart from shaking hands, physical contact should be avoided. Standard dress code is a suit and tie for men and a suit (or equivalent) for women but varies greatly depending on the company, with those in the new technologies sectors especially tending towards informality.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Before setting off sightseeing, it is wise for visitors to study a London Underground map, to get a feel for the straightforward colour-coded system. Visitors should also bear in mind, however, that many of the Underground stations are very close to each other and many central areas are easily navigable on foot.

Walking the streets of London, or strolling through its parks, one realises that, in a city hailed for its ability to embrace modernity and change, the past is, however, never far away: there are four world heritage sites in London (the Palace of Westminster, the Tower of London, Maritime Greenwhich and Kew Gardens) and some 40,000 listed buildings and structures. Three of Britain's top 10 paying attractions and six of the top ten free ones can be found in London. The London Eye, since it made its appearance on the banks of the Thames to mark the turn of the millennium, has since become the most popular attraction for visitors to the capital.

The tourist heart of London lies mainly on the north bank of the River Thames, with the chunk of flat land between South Kensington in the west to Tower Bridge in the east stuffed full of things to do and see. Starting in the west, there are the three major South Kensington Museums – the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Moving eastwards, the next key attraction is Buckingham Palace, back in vogue after the Jubilee Year in 2002. A short walk away, through St James’s Park, is Westminster, with the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. From here, it is another short walk up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, with the National Gallery and other attractions. This is where the ‘West End’ starts, heading slightly north to Leicester Square – a busy tourist-infested piazza where many Londoners would not be seen dead – connecting up with Piccadilly Circus to the west and Covent Garden to the east, with the stately old British Museum a little further away to the northeast. In the middle of the West End, Theatreland and Chinatown merge into Soho, with its nightlife and new media offices.

Along the river itself, on the north bank is the Tate Britain gallery in the west, followed by Westminster and then the Embankment. Crossing over the River Thames from the Embankment can by done on the new pedestrian Hungerford Bridge. The south bank of the river now has its own throngs of tourists, at the British Airways London Eye and London Aquarium. This side of the river also dominates culturally, with the South Bank Centre and, further east, the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre. Another pedestrian bridge, Lord Foster’s Millennium Bridge, connects the Tate Modern with St Paul’s Cathedral, back on the north bank. From St Paul’s, it is possible for one to walk through the City of London, reaching the Tower of London further east. Tower Bridge connects this ancient seat of power to City Hall, on the south bank, the new state-of-the-art home of London Mayor Ken Livingstone and the London Assembly, designed by Lord Foster (website: www.london.gov.uk).

Tourist Information
Visit London
Tel: (0906) 133 7799 (24-hour general tourist information).
Email: enquiries@londontouristboard.co.uk
Website: www.visitlondon.com

London’s main tourist information centre is the Britain and London Visitor Centre (BLVC), 1 Lower Regent St, SW1. Opening hours: 0930-1830 Mon, 0900-1830 Tue-Fri and 1000-1600 Sat-Sun. (Jun-Sep, Sat-Sun 1000-1700).

There are various London Tourist Information Centres (TIC) situated throughout the city, including one at Pepys House, 2 Cutty Sark Gardens, Greenwich, SE10 (tel: (0870) 608 2000) open daily 1000-1700; and one at Vinopolis, 1 Bank End, SE1 (tel: (0)20 7357 9168), open Tue-Sun 1000-1800, Mon closed.

City Information Centre
St Paul's Churchyard (opposite St Paul’s Cathedral)
Tel: (020) 7332 1456.
Website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk
Opening hours: Easter-Sep, daily 0930-1700; Oct-Mar, Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat 0930-1230, Sun closed.

Passes
The London Pass (website: www.londonpass.com) allows free access for one child or adult to over 50 attractions (including the London Aquarium, London Zoo, Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace and Buckingham Palace in summer). The ‘with transport’ option also includes free transport on all London buses, Tubes and trains. The price varies depending on whether or not you take the ‘with transport’ option. A pass for one day costs £23 without transport and £27 with transport; for two days £36 or £47, three days £44 or £60 and six days £62 or £94. Children pay £15 or £17 for one day, £25 or £29 for two days, £29 or £38 for three days and £41 or £52 for six days. Add 17.5% tax to all these prices. The London Pass can be purchased at the airport and tourist information offices around London.

Key Attractions

British Airways London Eye and County Hall
Towering 135m (444ft) into the heavens, right in the heart of London, the BA London Eye is literally an unmissable attraction. The world’s tallest observation wheel has become one of London’s most popular attractions, which usually means a ‘flight’ requires booking in advance and often queuing as well. However, the experience (one revolution of the wheel, lasting approximately 30 minutes) is absolutely worth it – the unparalleled views of the city reach as far away as 40km (25 miles).

Although the London Eye is the focus of the area, sitting right next door and directly across the River Thames from the Houses of Parliament, County Hall, the former home of the Greater London Council (abolished by Margaret Thatcher in 1986), comes a close second. The enormous building is home to the London Aquarium, the Dalí Universe and, most recently, The Saatchi Gallery, majestically situated on the first floor above the rabble. Here, Charles Saatchi’s extensive collection of modern British art is displayed, with a permanent exhibition and a changing temporary exhibition. The 3,716sq metres (40,000sq feet) of County Hall that make up the gallery have been restored to their original splendour and much of the art is hung in former offices among the oak panelling. The central conference hall contains the most (in)famous pieces, such as Marcus Harvey’s portrait of Myra Hindley, Tracey Emin’s Unmade Bed and Damien Hirst’s The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living, better known as ‘the shark in formaldehyde’.

For live sharks in tanks, visitors should go to the London Aquarium, home to over 350 different aquatic species from around the world, including a touch area where visitors can stroke the friendly rays. The Dalí Universe meanwhile contains over 500 works of art by the famous surrealist, including the painting, Spellbound, which was created specially for the set of the 1945 Hitchcock thriller, and the sofa in the shape of Mae West’s lips. County Hall is also home to two hotels (Marriott and Travel Inn), numerous bars and restaurants and a Namco Station, a vast entertainment centre offering video games, ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, a pool hall, as well as a licensed bar and lounge with big TV screens.

South Bank, SE1
Transport: London Underground Waterloo, Westminster or Embankment.

BA London Eye
Jubilee Gardens, South Bank, SE1
Tel: (0870) 500 0600 (booking line).
Website: www.ba-londoneye.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-2000 (Oct-Apr); Mon-Thurs 0930-2000, Fri-Sun 0930-2100 (May and Sep); Mon-Thurs 0930-2100, Fri-Sun 0930-2200 (Jun); daily 0930-2200 (Jul and Aug); closed (6-26 Jan).
Admission: £11.50 (concessions available).

London Aquarium
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: (020) 7967 8000. Fax: (020) 7967 8029.
E-mail: info@londonaquarium.co.uk
Website: www.londonaquarium.co.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (school holidays until 1900).
Admission: £9.75 peak times, £8.75 off peak (check website for dates; concessions available).

Dalí Universe
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: (020) 7620 2720 or (0870) 060 2319 (tickets). Fax: (020) 7620 3120.
E-mail: info@daliuniverse.com
Website: www.daliuniverse.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730.
Admission: £8.50 (concessions available).

The Saatchi Gallery
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: (020) 7823 2363 or (0870) 1160 278 (advance tickets).
Website: www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-2000; Fri-Sat 1000-2200.
Admission: £8.75 (concessions available).

Namco Station
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: (020) 7967 1067. Fax: (020) 7967 1060.
E-mail: countyhall@namco.co.uk
Website: www.namcostation.co.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2400.
Admission: Free.

Tate Gallery of Modern Art and Bankside
Opened in 2000, the Tate Modern is a £130-million project that is regarded as a model of urban regeneration, with the disused Bankside power station transformed into an avant-garde space dedicated to 20th-century art. The permanent exhibition changes biannually so that much of the Tate Gallery’s collection of modern work can be on show, displayed thematically rather than chronologically. This includes major works by Matisse, Picasso, Rothko and Warhol, as well as contemporary pieces. The Turbine Hall displays changing pieces of artwork, specially commissioned to fit the enormous space. The last artist to exhibit here was Olafur Eliasson with his huge 'Sun' installation.

The Bankside area itself is becoming one of the most exciting corners of the capital, especially now the £14-million Millennium Bridge has opened. Designed by Lord Foster, it provides a pedestrian link from the Tate Modern to St Paul’s Cathedral on the north bank. Bankside’s cultural regeneration is enhanced by the beautifully reconstructured Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre & Exhibition, which is open all year round, although plays are only performed at the outdoor venue during the summer. Other attractions along the river, past Southwark Bridge towards London Bridge, include Vinopolis, an interactive celebration of wine, and the Golden Hinde, a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s flagship. Southwark Cathedral, with its Visitor Centre and Exhibition, is nestled under London Bridge, on the edge of the nearby Borough Market (website: www.boroughmarket.org.uk), a heaven for gourmets.

Bankside, SE1
Transport: London Underground Southwark, Blackfriars or London Bridge.

Tate Modern
Bankside, SE1
Tel: (020) 7887 8000 or 8008 (recorded information line).
E-mail: boxoffice@tate.org.uk
Website: www.tate.org.uk
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri and Sat 1000-2200.
Admission: Free (donations welcome); temporary exhibitions vary.

Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre & Exhibition
21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1
Tel: (020) 7902 1400.
Website: www.shakespeares-globe.org
Opening hours: Oct-Apr 4th daily 1000-1700 (exhibition and theatre tour). Apr 5th-Sep daily 0900-1200 (exhibition and theatre tour) and 1230-1700 (exhibition only).
Admission: £8 (£8.50 May-Oct) (concessions available).

Vinopolis
1 Bank End, Bankside, SE1
Tel: (0870) 444 4777.
Website: www.vinopolis.co.uk
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs and Sun 1200-1800; Mon, Fri and Sat 1200-2100.
Admission: £12.50 (concessions available).

Golden Hinde
St Mary Overie Dock, Cathedral Street, SE1
Tel: (020) 7403 0123 or (0870) 011 8700.
Website: www.goldenhinde.co.uk
Opening hours: Daily, hours vary, depending on pre-booked tours and scheduled events.
Admission: £3.50 (self-guided tour), £4.00 (guided tour) (concessions available).

Southwark Cathedral
Montague Close, SE1
Tel: (020) 7367 6700.
Website: www.dswark.org/cathedral
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1100-1700.
Admission: Free; £3 (exhibition) (concessions available).

Palace of Westminster
The Palace of Westminster contains the Houses of Parliament, part of which is one of the city’s most famous landmarks- Big Ben. Big Ben is actually the name of the huge bell, whose tolling tune is instantly recognisable, while the clock tower itself, which rises above the seat of British government, is called St Stephen’s. The most ancient part of the whole Palace, Westminster Hall, is 900 years old. After almost total destruction by fire, the rest of the palace was rebuilt in neo-Gothic style, during the 19th century, to designs by Charles Barry.

All year round, free tours of the Palace of Westminster are available to UK residents, if they contact their MP who can arrange them. It is no longer possible to provide overseas visitors with small group tours. However, during late July/August and mid September/early October, Parliament is in recess and the Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster takes place. Extensive guided tours are offered for all visitors; these last about 75 minutes and include the Royal Robing Rooms, the House of Lords and the House of Commons and Westminster Hall. These are not free and they must be booked in advance (in person or from Firstcall). All visitors who want to watch Parliament at work, rather than tour the Palace, can watch from the Strangers’ Gallery. When Parliament is in session, there are two long queues (one for the Lords and one for the Commons) outside the Palace.

Parliament Square, SW1
Tel: (020) 7219 4272. Fax: (020) 7219 5839.
Website: www.parliament.uk
Transport: London Underground Westminster.

Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster
Tel: (0870) 906 3773 (Firstcall).
Website: www.firstcalltickets.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0915-1630 or 1315-1630 (depending on schedules).
Admission: £7 (plus £2 for foreign-language guide).

Westminster Abbey
Across Parliament Square is Westminster Abbey – a magnificent Gothic structure where innumerable members of the British royal family have been christened, married, crowned and interred. Consecrated under Edward the Confessor, in the 11th century, it was rebuilt over the next four centuries in Gothic style. Highlights include Henry VII’s Chapel, Poet’s Corner and the Coronation Chair.

Parliament Square, SW1
Tel: (020) 7654 4900. Fax: (020) 7654 4894.
Website: www.westminster-abbey.org
Transport: London Underground Westminster.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1545 (Wed 1800) and Sat 0930-1345 (sightseeing; last admission one hour before closing); all day Sun (religious services only).
Admission: £7.50 (concessions available); services free.

Trafalgar Square
London Mayor Ken Livingstone has made the once-congested and pigeon-infested Trafalgar Square a 'World Square' (website: www.worldsquares.com), pedestrianising more of this famous space and banning seed-sellers, in an attempt to stop what he considers a nuisance. The pedestrianisation links Nelson's Column in the centre with the north side of the square, where one of the world’s greatest galleries, the National Gallery, is to be found. It houses an incredible collection of Western paintings from the 13th to the early 20th century, as well as frequent special exhibitions. Round the corner, the National Portrait Gallery displays the country’s famous, infamous and forgotten in the media of oil, watercolour, marble and photography. The new Ondaatje Wing includes a lecture theatre and restaurant. Opposite the gallery is the beautiful 18th-century neo-classical church, St Martin-in-the-Fields, which hosts regular concerts and has a café in the crypt.

Trafalgar Square, WC2
Transport: London Underground Charing Cross or Leicester Square

National Gallery
Trafalgar Square, WC2
Tel: (020) 7747 2885.
Website: www.nationalgallery.org.uk
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2100.
Admission: Free; temporary exhibitions vary.

National Portrait Gallery
2 St Martin’s Place, WC2
Tel: (020) 7312 2463 (recorded information) or 7306 0055.
Website: www.npg.org.uk
Opening hours: Sat-Wed 1000-1800, Thurs and Fri 1000-2100.
Admission: Free; temporary exhibitions vary.

St Martin-in-the-Fields
Trafalgar Square, WC2
Tel: (020) 7766 1100.
Website: www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1830 (for sightseeing); concerts take place most nights of the week; crypt cafe opens later.
Admission: Free.

Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace, the London home of the Queen, is hugely popular with tourists. They flock to the palace, to witness royal pageantry dating back centuries at the Changing of the Guard ceremony, which takes place daily at 1130 from April to July and on alternate days at other times of the year. There is also the rare chance of seeing inside a royal residence (summer only). The building, by John Nash and Edward Blore, was built around the shell of the older of the older Buckingham House, in the 19th century. The rather drab façade was added in 1913. The 19 State Rooms of the Palace, including the Throne Room and the Picture Gallery, are only open to the public during August and September, when the Queen moves to her Scottish residence. The recently refurbished and expanded Queen's Gallery is open to the public throughout the year. It displays a changing exhibition of selected works from the Royal Collection, which covers five centuries' worth of art collecting and treasures, now held in trust by the Queen for the nation. The 17-hectare (42-acre) garden, long hidden from view, is also now open to visitors touring the palace.

Buckingham Palace Road, SW1
Tel: (020) 7321 2233 or (020) 7766 7300 (credit card booking line). Fax: (020) 7930 9625.
Website: www.royal.gov.uk
Transport: London Underground Green Park, Victoria or Hyde Park Corner.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630, last admission 1615 (Aug-Sep); visitors should check the website for specific dates (Palace); daily 1030-1730 (Queen's Gallery).
Admission: £12.95 (Palace), includes a free audio guide; £7.50 (Queen's Gallery) (concessions available).

Tower Hill
The infamous royal fortress on Tower Hill, the Tower of London, was begun by William the Conqueror in 1078 and remained a royal residence until the mid-16th century. Today, it houses the priceless Crown Jewels and the Royal Armouries collection. The history of the tower is a catalogue of intrigue and bloodshed – key historical figures, including members of the royal family, were imprisoned, tortured and/or executed here. The nearby Tower Bridge (a prime example of Victorian architecture and engineering) spans the River Thames. Hydraulic machinery, hidden in twin neo-Gothic towers, lifts the central section to allow ships in and out of the Pool of London. Visitors can learn about the bridge in the Tower Bridge Experience or enjoy the excellent views towards Canary Wharf and the City of London. On the northeast side, the harbour at St Katharine’s Dock marks the beginning of the London Docklands, while the warehouses to the south house the stylish Design Museum.

Tower Hill, EC3
Transport: London Underground Tower Hill or London Bridge.

Tower of London
Tel: (0870) 756 6060 (information) or (0870) 756 7070 (tickets).
Website: www.tower-of-london.org.uk
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 0900-1800 and Sun-Mon 1000-1800 (Mar-Oct); Tues-Sat 0900-1700 and Sun-Mon 1000-1700 (Nov-Feb); last admission one hour before closing.
Admission: £13.50 (concessions available).

Tower Bridge Experience
Tower Hill, EC3
Tel: (020) 7403 3761. Fax: (020) 7357 7935.
Website: www.towerbridge.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last admission 1700).
Admission: £5.50 (concessions available).

Design Museum
28 Shad Thames
Tel: (020) 7940 8790.
Website: www.designmuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1745.
Admission: £6 (concessions available).

St Paul’s Cathedral
The dome of St Paul’s Cathedral is the third largest in the world and one of the most distinctive features of the London skyline. The present building, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was completed in 1710, on the site of the original cathedral that was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666. On the inside of the dome, the Whispering Gallery, named for its incredible acoustics, offers a close-up of the frescoes of the life of St Paul that decorate the interior of the dome. From there, visitors can climb higher, up to two further galleries, which are outdoors and which offer magnificent views across the whole of London. Guided tours, lasting 90 minutes, are also available at 1100, 1130, 1330 and 1400 Monday to Saturday. Sunday services are held at 0800, 1015, 1130, 1515 and 1800.

Paternoster Square, EC4
Tel: (020) 7246 8348 (information line).
Website: www.stpauls.co.uk
Transport: London Underground St Paul’s.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1600 (sightseeing); sightseeing is restricted on Sun and religious holidays.
Admission: £7 (cathedral, galleries and crypt); £2.50 (guided tours) (concessions available).

British Museum
The British Museum, the centrepiece of which is the construction of Lord Foster’s glass-roofed Great Court, is one of the world’s finest museums. Visitors must contend with a mind-boggling six million artefacts from all corners of the globe, plucked (or plundered) by collectors. The awesome scale of the museum means it is essential to select just a few of the 94 galleries for close attention. Highlights include the Rosetta Stone, a copy of the Magna Carta and the controversial Parthenon Sculptures, known as the Elgin Marbles, taken from the Parthenon in Athens, which Greece want back before the 2004 Olympic Games. A new British Museum souvenir shop next to the museum opened in 2000. A 90-minute 'Highlights' tours is available daily at 1030, 1300 and 1500.

Great Russell Street, WC1
Tel: (020) 7323 8299.
Website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk
Transport: London Underground Russell Square.
Opening hours: Sat-Wed1000-1730, Thurs-Fri 1000-2030.
Admission: Free.

South Kensington Museums
The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) is one of three major museums in South Kensington – the others being the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Founded in the 19th century as a museum of the decorative arts, the V&A’s 11km (seven miles) of corridors trace a path through paintings, jewellery, furniture and textiles dating from 3000BC to the present day. Highlights include the Raphael Cartoons, the sculpture court, the dress collection from 1700 onwards, as well as the ‘British Galleries 1500-1900’, a comprehensive history of Britain’s design and art.

The Science Museum has been voted London Visitor Attraction of the Year in 2001 and 2002. It offers interactive exhibits on all kinds of scientific topics, from Space, Time or Weather to Agriculture or Food, from Computing or Mathematics to Nuclear Physics or Veterinary History. One key gallery is ‘Making the Modern World’, which includes objects such as early cars and computers.

The incredible Victorian building that is the Natural History Museum is divided into Earth Galleries and Life Galleries. The Earth Galleries explore our planet, while the Life Galleries explore the creatures that have inhabited it, from the dinosaurs to creepy crawlies. For live specimens, there is the Wildlife Garden outside. The new Darwin Centre will house the museum’s extensive collections of specimens, which date as far back as the 16th century but also include recent new species discoveries. It will also allow visitors to interact with the scientists using the collections and carrying out current research. Phase One is now open to the public, although Phase Two completes the project in 2007.

V&A Museum
Cromwell Road, SW7
Tel: (020) 7942 2000 or (0870) 442 0808.
Website: www.vam.ac.uk
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1745, Wed and last Fri of the month 1000-2200.
Admission: Free; temporary exhibitions might change.

Science Museum
Exhibition Road, SW7
Tel: (020) 7942 4000 or (0870) 870 4868.
Website: www.sciencemuseum.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission: Free.

Natural History Museum
Tel: (020) 7942 5000 or 7942 5011.
Website: www.nhm.ac.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1750, Sun 1100-1750.
Admission: Free.
Transport: London Underground South Kensington.

Tate Britain
The Gallery of Modern British Art opened in 1897, around the collection of sugar merchant Henry Tate. It now holds an unrivalled collection of English paintings from 1500 to the present day. Much 20th-century art has moved to the Tate Modern (see above), however, some remains on rotation here, from Gaudier Brzeska to Gilbert and George. There is also the 'Art Now' room, which shows a changing contemporary exhibition. The magnificent Turner Bequest is housed in the purpose-built Clore Gallery, with hundreds of Turner paintings on display.

Millbank, SW1
Tel: (020) 7887 8000 or 8008.
Website: www.tate.org.uk
Transport: London Underground Pimlico.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1750.
Admission: Free; temporary exhibitions vary.

Further Distractions

London’s Parks
Together, St James’s Park, Green Park, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens stretch from Whitehall to Kensington in the west. St James’s Park and Green Park are at the heart of royal and governmental London, cantilevered around Buckingham Palace, while Hyde Park’s Speaker’s Corner is the place for soapbox philosophers to harangue passers-by on Sunday mornings. Kensington Gardens contains the delightful Serpentine Gallery, as well as the glittering Albert Memorial. The more recent memorials to Diana, Princess of Walkes currently take the form of a playground and a 11km (seven-mile) Memorial Walk through Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, Green Park and St James's Park, although the official Memorial Fountain is due for completion in summer 2004. Regent’s Park, just north of Oxford Circus, is home to London Zoo, while immediately next door is Primrose Hill, with a fabulous view and chic village atmosphere. Of the many other parks in London, two are huge but further out – Hampstead Heath in north London and Richmond Park in south London. Hampstead Heath boasts acres of natural parkland, the 18th-century Kenwood House, numerous bathing ponds and another fantastic view over the capital. Richmond Park is the largest open space in London, first enclosed as a hunting park by King Charles I in 1637, it still boasts deer. Last, but not least, Greenwich Park is the oldest enclosed royal park. Situated on a hilltop with impressive views across East London, it provides a setting for several historic buildings, including the Old Royal Observatory, the Royal Naval College, the National Maritime Museum and the Queen's House.

All Royal Parks (tel: (020) 7298 2000 (General enquiries); website: www.royalparks.gov.uk), except Hampstead Heath (tel: (020) 7482 7073, website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk)

Serpentine Gallery
Kensington Gardens
Tel: (020) 7402 6075.
Website: www.serpentinegallery.org
Transport: London Underground Knightsbridge, Lancaster Gate or South Kensington.
Admission: Free.

London Zoo
Outer Circle
Regent's Park
London NW1 4RY
Tel: (020) 7722 3333.
Website: www.londonzoo.com
Transport: London Underground Camden Town, or alternatively Regent's Park or Baker Street. Also bus no. 274.
Opening hours: 1000-1730 (Mar-Oct), 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb).
Admission: £13 (concessions available).

Kenwood House
Hampstead Lane, NW3
Tel: (020) 7973 3478.
Website: www.english-heritage.org.uk
Transport: London Underground Hampstead, Belsize Park or Highgate; Silverlink Metro Hampstead Heath or Gospel Oak. Bus no.210.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (Apr-Oct); 1000-1600 (Nov-Mar); opens at 1030 Wed and Fri.
Admission: Free.

Highgate Cemetery
Resonating with the ghosts of such luminaries as Karl Marx and George Eliot, Highgate Cemetery is one of London’s most extraordinary places. With some of the finest Victorian funerary architecture in the country, many of the memorials are architecturally listed sites. The East Cemetery contains Karl Marx’s grave and monumental bust. The West Cemetery contains the remarkable Lebanon Circle, formed of 20 family catacombs surrounding an ancient cedar tree, as well as other notable monuments. Visitors can freely explore the East Cemetery but can only visit the West Cemetery by booking the one-hour guided tours in advance (by telephone).

Swains Lane, N6
Tel: (020) 8340 1834.
Website: http://highgate-cemetery.org
Transport: London Underground Archway or Highgate.
Opening hours: East Cemetery: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1100-1700 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1100-1600 (Nov-Mar); last admission half an hour before closing. West Cemetery tours: Mon-Fri 1400 (Mar-Nov only); Sat and Sun 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 and 1500; Mon-Fri 1400 (Mar-Nov only); Sat and Sun 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500 and 1600 (Apr-Oct).
Admission: £2 (East Cemetery); £3 (West Cemetery standard tour).

Theatre Museum
A little gem that will delight all theatre lovers. This museum, which showcases the making of the West End since 1843 to the present day, gives an overview of the evolution of the West End, London's Theatreland, over the past 160 years. Historic prints, plans, maps, posters, props, photos and models from the museum's collection and other sources, are all on display, with educational and insightful explanations provided. The museum also hosts changing exhibitions.

Russell Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E
Tel: (020) 7943 4700. Fax: (020) 7943 4777.
E-mail: tmenquiries@vam.ac.uk
Website: www.theatremuseum.vam.ac.uk
Transport: Underground Covent Garden, train to Charing Cross.
Opening hours: 1000-1800 (Tue-Sun). Closed Mondays and bank holidays.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

The London Tourist Board (see Tourist Information above) can provide full details on all tour providers in London.

Walking Tours
A variety of guided walks are available from several operators, although the most comprehensive tours are offered by The Original London Walks (tel: (020) 7624 3978 or 7624 9255 (recorded information); website: www.walks.com). The price is £5.50 for a two-hour tour (concessions are available). The company also offers themed tours on a huge variety of subjects, including ‘Jack the Ripper’ and ‘The Beatles’. Tours start and finish near a Tube station; there is no need to book and walkers can just turn up at the appropriate station, all of which are listed on the website’s ‘timetable’. London Mystery Walks (tel: (020) 8526 7755; website: www.tourguides.org.uk) also offer ‘Jack the Ripper’ tours, as well as ‘Haunted London’. Both cost £5 (students pay £4), take approximately two hours and depart from Aldgate station and St Paul’s station respectively. Booking is required for the ‘Haunted London’ tour.

Alternatively, for self-guided walks, the Silver Jubilee Walkway (website: www.jubileewalkway.com) has been extended from the original 3km (2miles) along the South Bank of the River Thames (between Lambeth and Tower bridges) to include much of the City and the West End. It now covers 23 km (14 miles). Also, starting at the Tower of London, 21 explanatory plaques trace a route along the Roman London Wall.

Bus Tours
Various competing companies offer similar bus tours of London’s sights. Tickets are usually valid for 24 hours and passengers can hop on and off at various attractions en route. The Big Bus Company (tel: (020) 7233 9533; website: www.bigbus.co.uk) offers three different 90-minute sightseeing routes at £18 each (£8 for children), with departure points close to many of London’s attractions. Original London Sightseeing Tours (tel: (020) 8877 1722; website: www.theoriginaltour.com) also offers various sightseeing bus tours.

Boat Tours
Westminster Pier is the main embarkation point for river trips. From here, there are services east (downstream) or west (upstream). City Cruises (tel: (020) 7740 0400; website: www.citycruises.com) operates sightseeing cruises east to Tower Pier, costing £5.60single or £6.80 return (journey time – 30 minutes each way), and Greenwich Pier, costing £6.80 single or £8.60 return (journey time – 1 hour each way) per adult (concessions are available). City Cruises also offers a ‘Red Rover’ day pass for its tours, enabling visitors to hop on and off at four different stops for £9 (concessions available). Tickets must be purchased at the ticket office before boarding.

Going west, summer services by WPSA (tel: (020) 7930 2062 or 4721; website: www.wpsa.co.uk) depart from Westminster Pier upriver to Kew Gardens, Richmond and Hampton Court. Tickets must be purchased before boarding and cost £10.50 single or £16.50 return for the 90-minute cruise to Kew, or £13.50 (single) or £19.50 (return) to Hampton Court, which takes over three hours (each way). Concessions available.

Catamaran Cruises (tel: (020) 7987 1185; website: www.catamarancruisers.co.uk) provides multi-lingual cruises from Waterloo, Westminster and Embankment Piers. These 50-minute non-stop circular cruises cost £8 (concessions available). Catamaran Cruises also operates a hop-on, hop-on service, covering Embankment Pier, Waterloo Pier, Bankside, Tower Pier and Greenwich Pier. Prices start from £3, although a day’s worth of unlimited travel on all Catamaran Cruises services is available with the ‘Hopper Pass’. Tickets cost £9 (concessions available) and must be purchased at the ticket office before boarding. Concessions are available.

Other Tours
London Duck Tours (tel: (020) 7928 3132; website: www.londonducktours.co.uk) runs unconventional tours on an amphibious craft, which depart from County Hall and rumble through London’s streets, taking in Whitehall, Trafalgar Square and Buckingham Palace, before plunging into the River Thames for a 30-minute cruise. Single tickets for the 70-minute tour cost £17.50, concessions are available.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Kew Gardens: Situated on the western edge of the city, beside the River Thames, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 (tel: (020) 8940 1171 or 8332 5655; website: www.rbgkew.org.uk) is a 121-hectare (300-acre) site, first planted in the 17th century and now a horticulturist’s heaven. The glasshouses, including the beautiful Palm House, shelter rare orchids and palms. Transport to the gardens is by London Underground to Kew Gardens; or by train from Waterloo to Kew Bridge, which is also served by the Silverlink Metro. Admission is £10 (concessions available). The gardens are open daily 0930-1830, Saturday and Sunday 0930-1930 (Apr-Aug), closing earlier as winter sets in.

Hampton Court Palace: Just outside London, on the banks of the River Thames, is Hampton Court Palace, East Moseley, Surrey KT8 9AU (tel: (0870) 752 7777; website: www.hampton-court-palace.org.uk), once the residence of Henry VIII. As well as the magnificent State Apartments used by the Tudor court, there are 60 acres of immaculate riverside gardens to explore, and a world-famous maze that will delight children and grown-ups alike. After your visit, take a walk along the banks of the river or catch a boat to Kingston, Richmond or Kew. On a sunny day, this is one of the nicest days out to be had around London. Hampton Court Palace is open (Apr-Oct) Mon-Sun 1000-1800; (Nov-Mar) Mon-Sun 1000-1630 (last admission 45 minutes before closing time). Admission is £12, £4 for gardens only, £3.50 for maze only (concessions available).

London Wetland Centre: London Wetland Centre, Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, Barnes, SW13 (tel: (020) 8409 4400; website: www.wetlandcentre.org.uk), is the first wetland environment ever to be created in a capital city. The former 42-hectare (105-acre) disused reservoir has been transformed into an oasis for a multitude of watery wildlife, with the addition of 30 reformed lakes, ponds and marshland. With 250m (819ft) of boardwalk, 3km (2 miles) of pathways and seven viewing hides, the centre provides close-up access to water-loving birds, mammals and insects from across Britain and around the world. There is also a visitor centre. The centre is open daily 0930-1800 in summer, 0930-1700 in winter (last admission one hour before closing time); admission costs £6.75 (concessions available). Transport is by London Underground to Hammersmith, then free shuttle bus, or by train from Waterloo to Barnes, followed by a short walk.

For a Whole Day

Brighton: Known as ‘London on Sea’, Brighton is located 97km (60 miles) from London, on the south coast. Easily and relatively cheaply accessible from Victoria station or King's Cross Thameslink, Britain’s young demographic (including residents of the calibre of Fat Boy Slim), vibrant nightlife, top-class restaurants and relaxed vibe certainly make it the trendy coastal retreat of choice. Attractions include the Royal Pavilion (George IV’s summer retreat), the newly renovated Museum of Brighton, and the old town around the Lanes. The Brighton Visitor Information Office, 10 Bartholomew Square (tel: (0906) 711 2255; website: www.tourism.brighton.co.uk), can provide more information.

Oxford: The ‘dreaming spires’ are located 97km (60 miles) northwest of central London. Harbouring one of the oldest universities in Europe, Oxford is not only steeped in history, architecture and traditions (such as punting on the river) but is also a bustling commercial city with good shops and excellent pubs. Trains to Oxford depart from Paddington station, while frequent 24-hour coaches leave from Victoria- the Oxford Express X90 from Victoria Coach Station and the Oxford Tube from Grosvenor Gardens outside Victoria train station. The Oxford Tourist Information Office, The Old School (tel: (01865) 726 871; website: www.visitoxford.org), can provide further information.

Sport

London will be hosting the Olympic Games in 2012, and the city is already getting ready for this momentous event, which will see the best athletes in the world converge on the capital for two weeks of sporting extravanganza.

The most famous sporting events in the capital are the London Marathon (website: www.london-marathon.co.uk) in April and the Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships at the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, SW19 (tel: (020) 8944 1066; website: www.wimbledon.org) in June and July. Just outside London, Ascot Racecourse, Ascot, Berkshire (tel: (01344) 876 876 (tickets); website: www.ascot.co.uk) and Epsom Downs Racecourse, Epsom Downs, Surrey (tel: (01372) 470 047; website: www.epsomderby.co.uk) host Royal Ascot and The Derby, both held in June.

Most Londoners are fanatical about football and the FA Cup Final in May was always held at Wembley Stadium. However, the famous Towers have been demolished and work has begun on a new national stadium. The FA Cup Final will be held in the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff in the interim, until Wembley re-opens in May 2006. An impressive feature of the London skyline, the new Wembley Stadium is taking shape. Standing 133 metres above the central concourse, the controversial arch provides a striking landmark for the 90,000 seat stadium which will be the biggest in the world.

Support for one of London’s several Premiership football clubs divides the city. Arsenal (tel: (020) 7704 4000; website: www.arsenal.com) and Tottenham Hotspur (tel: (020) 8365 5000; website: www.spurs.co.uk) are based in north London and are keen rivals, while Chelsea (tel: (0870) 300 1212; website: www.chelseafc.co.uk) and Fulham (tel: (0870) 442 1234; website: www.fulhamfc.com) are based in the southwest of the city. West Ham United (tel: (020) 8548 2748; website: www.westhamunited.co.uk) has a loyal following in the east, while Charlton Athletic (tel: (020) 8333 4000; website: www.charlton-athletic.co.uk) represents the Premiership in the southeast of the city. Arsenal (also known as 'The Gunners') were Premiership champions in 2003-2004, and in 2004 broke Nottingham Forest's record of 42 matches without a loss (set over two seasons between 1977 and 1979). Rivals Chelsea, however, won the Premier League in 2004-2005.
National and international Rugby Union (website: www.rfu.com) is based at Twickenham. Successful local clubs include Harlequins (website: www.quins.co.uk), Wasps (website: www.wasps.co.uk), Saracens (website: www.saracens.com) and London Irish (website: www.london-irish.com). Rugby has been growing in popularity since England won the Rugby World Cup in 2003, beating Australia 20-17 with a breathtaking drop goal by Jonny Wilkinson just 26 seconds from the end of a thrilling final in Sydney.

The home of cricket’s governing body, the Marylebone Cricket Club – MCC (tel: (020) 7289 1611), founded in 1787, is Lord’s, St John’s Wood Road, NW8 (tel: (020) 7432 1066 (ticket office); website: www.lords.org), which also hosts league, cup and International Test matches. Major athletic events in London take place at Crystal Palace National Sports Centre, Ledrington Road, SE19 (tel: (020) 8778 0131; website: www.gll.org).

Tickets to major sporting events can be purchased through Ticketmaster UK (tel: (0870) 534 4444; website: www.ticketmaster.co.uk).

Fitness Centres: Public fitness centres where it is not necessary for one to be a member include Chelsea Sports Centre, Chelsea Manor Street, SW3 (tel: (020) 7352 6985; website: www.rbkc.gov.uk/sport/chelseasportscentre), and the massive Oasis Centre, 32 Endell Street, WC2 (tel: (020) 7831 1804), situated right in the heart of the West End.

Golf: Regent’s Park Golf and Tennis School, Outer Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 (tel: (020) 7724 0643; website: www.rpgts.co.uk), offers professional lessons, as well as driving practice. The English Golf Union (tel: (01526) 354 500; website: www.englishgolfunion.org) have information on many of the capital’s golf courses.

Swimming: Seasonal open-air swimming pools include Brockwell Lido, SW9 (tel: (020) 7274 3088; website: www.thelido.co.uk), and Parliament Hill Lido, Hampstead Heath, NW3 (tel: (020) 7485 5757). The Oasis Centre (see Fitness Centres above) has an indoor as well as an outdoor pool and is open year round.

Tennis: Outdoor public courts are available at Regent’s Park, NW1 (tel: (020) 7486 4216), and at Islington Tennis Centre, Market Road, N7 (tel: (020) 7700 1370; website: www.aquaterra.org/Islington/ITC/), which also has indoor courts.

Watersports: Sailing tuition is offered at Docklands Sailing and Watersports Centre, Millwall Dock, 235A Westferry Road, E14 (tel: (020) 7537 2626; website: www.dswc.org).

Shopping

London is one of the world’s great shopping cities, with over 30,000 retail outlets dotted across the capital (3,000 of which in Central London alone). Typically for London, particular areas of the city have their own shopping characters. In the west, The King’s Road in Chelsea, SW1, has a long-standing reputation for fashion, although is now mainly high-street chains, while the Notting Hill area, once primarily antiques, is now also very popular for fashion boutiques, in particular along Westbourne Grove and Ledbury Road, W11. In the east, the Brick Lane area, E1 and E2, has long been home to up-and-coming fashion designers’ studios but now the area is really taking off, with many designers opening shops alongside shops selling vintage furniture, second-hand clothes, design objects and other quirky finds (Cheshire Street is especially good for this).

More centrally, Oxford Street (the busiest shopping street in Europe, with 200 million visitors a year and a turnover of £5 billion) and Regent Street (website: www.regentstreetonline.com), both W1, attract swarms of shoppers to well-known high-street clothing shops and megastores, including Hamley’s toy emporium, 188-196 Regent Street. Department stores (such as the enormous and trendy Selfridges, the reliable Marks & Spencer, and the back-to-basics John Lewis) are mostly located along Oxford Street, although the high-fashion Liberty is just down Regent Street. Just around the back of Liberty, Carnaby Street, popular in the swinging ’60s, is enjoying a revival, although it is mostly filled now with chains. The parallel Newburgh Street has independent trendy boutiques.

Nearby, Tottenham Court Road, WC1, is lined with electrical shops, while directly south, Charing Cross Road, WC2, has long been the centre for bookshops in London, with enticing second-hand shops and bigger chains. London’s largest bookshop, Waterstones, is situated on Piccadilly, W1. Covent Garden, WC2, is one of the most popular shopping areas. Its Piazza, once the site of the fruit and vegetable market, is now filled with specialist shops, cafés, craft stalls and street performers, while Floral Street is home to trendy clothes shops and Neal Street trendy shoe shops.

Old and New Bond Streets, W1, are home to the flagship stores for big international designers, such as Prada and Gucci, with nearby Conduit Street providing a home to more off-the-wall designers, such as Issey Miyake and Vivien Westwood. All these rub shoulders with the home of bespoke tailoring, Savile Row, while high-powered art galleries are scattered throughout the area, particularly Cork Street.

Visitors looking for a gift that is representative of London need look no further than the number of tacky shops and souvenir stalls that line Oxford Street, Piccadilly Circus and other tourist-attracting areas. Passers-by are assaulted with all manner of kitsch, cute and colourful souvenirs, toys and clothes (mostly sporting a Union Jack or member of the royal family). Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1, sells more upmarket souvenirs and attracts huge numbers of tourists (and locals) every year, with its legendary sales and heavenly food hall. Another good place for typical British food stuffs as gifts is Fortnum and Mason, on Piccadilly, W1, a classic from the early 20th century.

High-street shopping still dominates in the city centre, however, out-of-town shopping centres are becoming increasingly popular. The massive Bluewater (website: www.bluewater.co.uk), one mile off the M25 ring road, is the biggest of this new breed.

Visiting one or more of London’s markets is a way of combining shopping with a cultural experience. The vast market at Camden Lock, Chalk Farm Road, NW1, is one of the city’s top attractions, open daily but primarily Saturday and Sunday. Visitors also flock to the antiques and flea market on the Portobello Road, W10, on Friday and Saturday. In the East End, Sunday markets sell everything from fruit and vegetables to jewellery and junk, such as Petticoat Lane and Brick Lane, E1, open 0900-1400 and 0600-1300 respectively, as well as the Sunday morning flower market at Columbia Road, E2. Despite the imminent redevelopment of half of the original market building, Spitalfields Market, E1, continues to thrive. Focused around extensive organic produce stalls, there are also stalls selling arts and crafts, antiques, records and clothes, with a pared-down market on Wednesday. Antiques are available on Camden Passage, Islington, N1, on Wednesday and Saturday, and Greenwich Market, SE10, on Saturday and Sunday. One of the most wonderful places for shoppers to explore for mainly 20th-century antiques is the massive maze of Alfie’s Antique Market, 13-25 Church Street, NW8, open Tuesday to Saturday. For foodies, Borough Market, SE1, is still the best, open Friday and Saturday, while, Brixton Market, Electric Avenue, SW9, offers the biggest selection of Caribbean food in Europe, open every day except Friday.

Standard shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 0930-1800, although some shops stay open as late as 2000. Shops rarely close for lunch and many are now also open 1200-1800 on Sunday. Late-night opening (usually until 2000) is on Thursday in the West End and Wednesday in the Knightsbridge area. Most major stores and shops in the West End are part of the Tax-Free Shopping scheme run by Global Refund (tel: (0800) 829 373; website: www.globalrefund.com), which offers VAT (currently charged at 17.5%) refunds to visitors from outside the EU. To encourage European visitors, the Euro is now increasingly accepted in major shops, with over 45 Oxford Street retailers accepting the currency alongside the Pound Sterling.

Culture

London’s cultural scene combines the assurance of long-standing tradition with the verve of regained creativity. The sheer breadth of cultural activities on offer in the capital is breathtaking, with over 150 theatres and 300 art galleries. Contemporary figures like Tracy Emin and Zadie Smith complement the rich heritage of Turner and Shakespeare.

The hulking concrete mass of the South Bank Centre, South Bank, SE1 (tel: (020) 7960 4242; website: www.sbc.org.uk), is one of the city’s cultural Meccas. It houses the Hayward Gallery and three concert halls – the Royal Festival Hall, the Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Purcell Room. Next door is the flagship Royal National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 (tel: (020) 7452 3400 (information) or 7452 3000 (box office); website: www.nationaltheatre.org.uk). Flying the cultural flag north of the river, the labyrinthine Barbican Centre, Silk Street, EC2 (tel: (020) 7638 8891 (box office) or 7638 4141 (information); website: www.barbican.org.uk), is an all-inclusive performing and visual arts venue with a varied all-year programme of events.

London Tourist Board’s Visitor Call service (tel: (0906) 133 7799) and the weekly Time Out magazine (website: www.timeout.com) provide details of the week’s entertainment. Ticket agencies include First Call Ticketing (tel: (0870) 840 1111; website: www.firstcalltickets.com) and Ticketmaster UK (tel: (0870) 534 4444; website: www.ticketmaster.co.uk).

Music: The world-famous Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, WC2 (tel: (020) 7304 4000; website: www.royalopera.org), is home to the excellent Royal Opera. However, despite some attempts to cut the price, ballet and opera tickets are still often fairly expensive. More accessible are performances by the English National Opera (website: www.eno.org) at the London Coliseum, St Martin’s Lane, WC2 (tel: (020) 7632 8300).

Large-scale concerts are staged at the Royal Festival Hall (see above), home of the London Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (020) 7840 4200 or 4242 (box office); website: www.lpo.co.uk), or the Barbican (see above), home of the London Symphony Orchestra (tel: (020) 7588 1116 or (020) 7638 8891 for box office; website: www.lso.co.uk). The Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 (tel: (020) 7589 8212 (box office); website: www.royalalberthall.com), can also stage huge concerts, including London’s annual musical highlight, the summer series of the Proms (see Cultural events below).

Music connoisseurs should head for the traditional but friendly surroundings of the Wigmore Hall, 36 Wigmore Street, W1 (tel: (020) 7935 2141; website: www.wigmore-hall.org.uk), to hear impeccable chamber music and solo recitals. More informal concerts take place in halls and churches all over the capital, including St Martin-in-the-Fields (see Key Attractions), St John’s, Smith Square, SW1, and St James’s, Piccadilly, W1.

Theatre: Within the extraordinary diversity of London’s theatre scene (there are over 100 theatres in the capital, including 50 in the West End), the Royal National Theatre (see above) and the Royal Shakespeare Company (tel: (01789) 403 404; website: www.rsc.org.uk) compete for audiences with commercial West End theatres, repertory companies, ‘off-West End’ productions and fringe theatres. The National Theatre’s three auditoria – The Olivier, The Cottesloe and The Lyttleton – allow productions of different scale, from classics to new writing. The Royal Shakespeare Company, performing primarily Shakespeare and based out of Stratford-upon-Avon, did use the Barbican as its London home but will now perform in a range of venues including the Barbican.

The Old Vic, The Cut, Waterloo, SE1 (tel: (0870) 060 6628 for bookings; website: www.oldvictheatre.com), offers inspired traditional drama. Meanwhile, down the road, at 66 The Cut, the Young Vic (tel: (020) 7928 6363; website: www.youngvic.org) presents modern productions of contemporary and classic plays. The Royal Court Theatre, Sloane Square, SW1 (tel: (020) 7565 5000; website: www.royalcourttheatre.com), continues to foster excellent new writing.

Quality innovative productions can also be expected from ‘off-West End’ theatres, such as the Donmar Warehouse, Earlham Street, WC2 (tel: (020) 7240 4882; website: www.donmar-warehouse.com), and the Almeida, Almeida Street, N1 (tel: (020) 7359 4404 (box office); website: www.almeida.co.uk). Fringe theatre, ranging from the inspired to the insane, is performed in dozens of local venues, including the King’s Head, 115 Upper Street, N1 (tel: (020) 7226 1916; website: www.kingsheadtheatre.org), which is the oldest pub-theatre in London, and the Finborough Theatre, 118 Finborough Road, SW10 (tel: (0870) 4000 838).

From May to September, the Globe Theatre, New Globe Walk, SE1 (tel: (0)20 7902 1400 (information) or (020) 7401 9919 (box office); website: www.shakespeares-globe.org), stages open-air productions of Shakespeare and his contemporaries. There are also outdoor summer performances at the Open Air Theatre in Regents Park, NW1 (tel: (08700) 601 811; website: http://openairtheatre.org ).

Theatre tickets in the West End cost £15-40. They can be purchased in advance from the theatre box office. Alternatively, for purchases on the day of the performance, there is a booth on the south side of Leicester Square, formerly called the Half-Price Theatre Ticket Booth, now called tkts (website: www.tkts.co.uk). It is open Mon-Sat 1000-1900 and Sun 1200-1500. This is the official Society of London Theatre’s booth; visitors should avoid touts and other outlets in the area. The booth sells mainly half-price tickets, although some tickets at 25% discount and some full-price tickets. Because of the booking fee, when only full-price tickets are available for that night’s performance, visitors are advised to go to the actual theatre box office. There is also a new tkts outlet in Canary Wharf DLR Station (platform 4/5), open Mon-Sat 1130-1800.

Dance: Touring dance companies perform mostly contemporary dance at the Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1 (tel: (020) 7863 8198 for enquiries or
(0870) 737 7737 for tickets; website: www.sadlers-wells.com). Ticket prices are usually more reasonable than at the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, WC2 (tel: (020) 7304 4000), which is home to the Royal Ballet (website: www.royalopera.org/ballet).

Film: Local cinemas are less expensive than those in the West End, where tickets cost approximately £10. Two main cinema chains are Odeon (tel: (0871) 22 44 007 ; website: www.odeon.co.uk) and Vue (formerly Warner) (tel: (08712) 240 240; website: www.myvue.com), with venues all over London, their biggest in Leicester Square, WC2. Barbican Screen, Silk Street, EC2 (tel: (020) 7638 8891; website: