World City Guide

Mini Guide of Lyon

City Overview

Situated at the crossroads of Northern Europe and the Mediterranean, travellers have often passed through Lyon but not always given this city the attention it deserves. Two hours from the alpine ski resorts and three hours from the sea, Lyon – the capital of the Rhône-Alpes region and the second largest contributor to the French economy after Paris – is more than worthy of a detour on the way to the sun or the ski slopes.

In December 1998, Lyon became one of only a few urban centres on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s major asset resides in the way that it has developed, enabling each of its districts to conserve their own distinctive architectural hallmarks. As a city, Lyon is characterised by contrasts in its setting, between its two hills – the Fourvière and Croix-Rousse – and between its two rivers – the Rhone and the Sâone. Lyon also demonstrates its mixed heritage, by displaying traits of a typical northern French town in some areas, while other features bear witness to its Latin heritage.

The city’s history begins on Fourvière Hill, where vestiges of the original Roman city are still evident. The Romans named Lyon Lugdunum, meaning the ‘city of light’. This tradition continues to the present day – every evening throughout the year, more than one hundred sites throughout the city are lit up to show the splendour of Lyon’s architecture.

The best way for one to fully appreciate two millennia of Lyon’s historical heritage is on foot. The sunny and temperate weather lends itself to strolling through the streets, appreciating the architectural splendour of the city. Walking around, the visitor passes through a number of historical eras, from Fourvière Hill and its Roman settlement to evidence of Lyon’s power in the Gallo-Roman period. Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) contains the largest display of Renaissance architecture in France, which dates back to the end of the 15th century, when it became an important and wealthy trade centre, famous for its fairs and its silk industry. Strolling around Lyon is the only way for visitors to discover and enjoy an authentic local feature, the traboules. These covered passageways were created during the Renaissance, initially as short cuts, although they later became escape routes for the French resistance during World War II.

Lyon is a gourmet’s paradise. With the exception of Paris, the city boasts the largest number of Michelin-starred restaurants and famous chefs in the whole of France. One simply has to remember that Lyon is the home of Paul Bocuse and his famous restaurant to appreciate the quality of cuisine available. For a less sophisticated atmosphere, visitors can also sample the simple delights of a bouchon, a small picturesque restaurant specialising in local delicacies.

This intermingling of the history and architecture of the past with the cultural and gastronomic delights of the present combine to make Lyon far more than just another milestone on the way to the Mediterranean but a city worth a visit in its own right.

Getting There By Air

Lyon-St-Exupéry Airport (LYS)
Tel: (0826) 800 826. Fax: (04) 7222 7471.
Website: www.lyon.aeroport.fr

Lyon-St-Exupéry Airport (formerly known as Lyon-Satolas) is France’s fastest growing airport in terms of passenger numbers. It is located 25km (15.5 miles) to the east of Lyon city centre. Lyon-St-Exupéry welcomes over six million passengers each year. More than 40 airlines regularly use the airport, flying to over 100 destinations, including 38 international cities.

Major airlines: Air France (tel: (08) 0280 2802; website: www.airfrance.fr) is the national airline. Other carriers include Alitalia, British Airways, Continental Ailines, Delta Airlines (which operates a direct line between New York and Lyon), Lufthansa and SAS.

Approximate flight times to Lyon: From London is 1 hour 35 minutes; from New York is 11 hours; from Los Angeles is 15 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 11 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 24 hours.

Airport facilities: These include ATMs, a post office, travel agency, infirmary, snack bars, restaurants, a newsagent, pharmacy, duty-free shops in all departure lounges and two hotels – Sofitel (tel: (04) 7223 3805) and Kyriad (tel: (04) 7223 9090). There are also several car hire companies including ADA, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National Citer and Sixt. All car hire offices are situated on a specific car park opposite Terminal One.

Business facilities: The Business Centre (tel: (04) 7222 8374; fax: (04) 7222 7471; e-mail: centre.affaires@lyon.aeroport.fr) provides office facilities and rooms, which are available for hire by the hour or day. All rooms are equipped with telephone and paperboard, while other facilities, such as overhead projectors, sound systems, VGA-SVGA video projectors, video recorders and TVs, Minitel and slide projectors are available on request. Secretarial and catering services are also available.

Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: The cheapest alternative to the city centre is the Satobus coach (tel: (04) 7268 7217), which operates Monday-Sunday 0600-2320, costing ¬8.20 for a single, or ¬14.60 return (journey time – 45 minutes). Taxis are also available at the airport and a fare to Lyon city centre costs approximately ¬30.50 during the day or ¬40 at night with GIE Taxi Aéroport (tel: (04) 7222 7221).

There is a High-Speed Train (TGV) station (tel: (04) 7222 7790), for connections to Paris, Avignon, Cannes, Nice and other destinations around France. Contact SNCF (tel: (0892) 353 535, for fare and timetable information, reservation and booking; e-mail: webra@sncf.fr; website: www.sncf.fr) for further information.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Lyon is located at the heart of a dense network of motorways, which are designated by the letter ‘A’ and a corresponding number, including the A6, A7, A42 and A43, although there are tolls on most French motorways. National roads bear the prefix ‘N’ and minor roads are classed as ‘D’ (départementale) roads.

The minimum legal driving age is 18 years old. Traffic drives on the right. Seatbelts must be worn by all front- and rear-seat passengers. A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times or the driver is liable to be fined. All headlamp beams must be adjusted for right-side driving by either using beam deflectors or tilting the headlamp bulb-holder. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences such as speeding. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph (31mph), 90kph (56mph) on main roads and 130kph (81mph) on the motorways. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio while driving is 0.05%.

EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover in France. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy.

Road and route information is provided by Société des Autoroutes Rhône-Alpes (tel: (04) 7214 2091) and Autoroute du Soleil ASF (tel: (04) 9032 9005).

Emergency breakdown service:
Automobile Club 24/24, 7/7 (08) 0008 0001

Routes to the city: Main routes to Lyon are the A6 from Paris, the A7 from Marseille, the A43 from Geneva and the A48 from Grenoble.

Approximate driving times to Lyon: From Grenoble – 1 hour; Geneva – 1 hour 30 minutes; Marseille – 2 hours 40 minutes; Paris – 4 hours.

Coach services: The coach station is situated at Lyon Perrache railway station, 10 Cours de Verdun. Its facilities include cafés, restaurant, ATM and bureau de change. As there are no telephone numbers for the coach station, it is better to contact the individual companies directly. Within the Rhône-Alpes area, the main operator is Transports Publics Autocars (tel: (04) 7277 6303). Eurolines (tel: (04) 7256 9530; website: www.eurolines.com) provides links throughout Europe. Other operators include Interbus (tel: (04) 7241 7227) to Spain and Intercar (tel: (04) 7837 2080) for Portugal, Spain and Geneva.

Getting There By Rail

The city has two main railways stations – Lyon Part-Dieu, Place Beraudier, and Lyon Perrache, 10 Cours de Verdun. The stations share roughly equal amounts of the train traffic to and from the city. Both stations have a café, snack bar, ATM, newsagent, tourist information office and a bus link to Lyon-St-Exupéry Airport.

SNCF (tel: (0892) 353 535, for fare and timetable information, reservation and booking; e-mail: webra@sncf.fr; website: www.sncf.fr) is the national rail service provider. The French TGV network is now highly developed, branching out in three main directions – south–east (Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean), Atlantic and north.

National rail enquries should be directed to the SNCF Ligne Vocale hotline (tel: (0891) 676 869), which provides timetable and service information for all domestic and cross-border rail services. The line is available daily 24 hours.

Rail services: A high-speed TGV (Train Grand Vitesse) service leaves Lyon for Paris almost every half an hour (journey time –2 hours), providing 30 services between the cities per day. Direct services are also available to and from Geneva (journey time – 2 hours), Turin (journey time – 4 hours), Montpellier (journey time – 2 hours), Marseille (journey time – 2 hours) and Nantes (journey time – 7 hours).

Transport to the city: There are plenty of buses and taxis available at the railway stations. Both stations are also served by the Métro.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Transports en Commun Lyonnais – TCL (tel: (04) 7871 7000; fax: (04) 7233 8462; e-mail: tcl@tcl.fr; website: www.tcl.fr), operates both the bus and Métro systems. The central bus station is based at Lyon Perrache railway station.

The Métro network in Lyon is excellent – clean and easy to use, with four different lines and 40 stations. Bus and Métro services operate 0500-2400.

The price of a single ticket is ¬1.40, which gives access to all bus and Métro lines for one hour from the time of validation, which can be done in the machine on the bus or at the Métro station. Connections can be made for other lines or buses but return journeys on the same line are prohibited. Books of ten tickets (carnet) can also be bought for ¬10.60. Tickets are available for purchase from automatic ticket machines in Métro stations, from the bus drivers and from TCL offices and many newsagents.

The Liberté Ticket pass costs ¬3.80 and allows access to the whole TCL network for one day. A month-long City Pass costs ¬41.62.

Taxis
Providers include Taxis Lyonnais (tel: (04) 7826 8181), Taxis Radio (tel: (04) 7210 8686), Allo Taxi (tel: (04) 7828 2323) and Télétaxi (tel: (04) 7828 1314). It is also possible for travellers to hail taxis in the street or from taxi ranks.
the airport is about ¬30.50. Drivers do not expect tips.

Limousines
Limousines can be hired from Class Affaires Limousines, 48 rue Etienne Richerand (tel: (04) 7234 8660), Loc Limousines, 134 rue Sully (tel: (04) 7817 2020), or Affaires et Tourisme, 119 rue Challemal-Lacour (tel: (04) 7800 4200; fax: (04) 7874 7005; e-mail: affaires.tourisme@wanadoo.fr; website: www.affaires-tourisme.fr). Half-day hire costs approximately ¬232, on average.

Driving in the City
The city centre of Lyon is best visited on foot. Nevertheless, driving in Lyon is not as bad as it is in
Prices are not contractual and depend on the company. The average cost of a taxi ride from Part-Dieu to Bellecour is ¬8, from Perrache to La Cité Internationale is ¬12 and from Lyon city centre to other French towns, although the tunnels are best avoided during rush hour.

Lyon has a large number of new parking facilities available to motorists, although these tend to fill up quite quickly. Some central parking meters are available, usually costing ¬3 per hour, with a limit of two hours. Parking in the Presqu’île area is available at the Hôtel de Ville, place des Terreaux and place Tolozan. There are also parking facilities at both railway stations, as well as in Old Lyon at the St-Jean car park, on quai Romain Roland. Lyon Parc Auto (LPA), 2 place des Cordeliers (tel: (04) 7241 6525; e-mail: lpa@lyon-parc-auto.com; website: www.lyon-parc-auto.com), runs 19 car parks in total and provides more information for motorists.

Car Hire
Service providers include ADA (tel: (08) 3668 4002), Avis (tel: (08) 0205 0505; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (08) 0010 0001; website: www.budget.com), Citer (tel: (08) 0005 1011; website: www.citer.com), Europcar (tel: (08) 0335 2352; website: www.europcar.com), Hertz (tel: (08) 0386 1861; website: www.hertz.com) and Thrifty (tel: (04) 7235 1237; website: www.thrifty.com).

The minimum age for hiring a car is 18 years old, although this may vary according to the company. Insurance is required, as is a national driving licence. Rates start at approximately ¬70 per day.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
All-terrain and mountain bikes (VTT) can be hired from Top Bike, 5 rue d’Inkermann (tel: (04) 7824 8582), Decathlon Location, 332 avenue du Général de Gaulle (tel: (04) 7215 8733), or Loisirs VTT, Le Bourg in Pollionnay (tel: (04) 7848 1545). Bikes and scooters are available at Holiday Bikes, 8 quai Lassagne (tel: (04) 7207 0677). The daily rates for bike and scooter hire are approximately ¬11 and ¬20 respectively.

Business

Business Profile
Lyon’s 2000 years of history illustrate the ability of this city to adapt to changing circumstances. Lyon was the first French city to exchange currency and the first centre of banking in France.

Lyon and its hinterland form a dynamic economy, accounting for some 10% of French Gross Domestic Product. This makes it an attractive European site and the largest area for development outside Paris. Other factors behind its success include its geo-strategic position, excellent communication network and the interplay between the private and public sectors of the economy. Additionally, Lyon has excellent research facilities, such as several universities, ‘Grandes Ecoles’ and research laboratories, such as the National Scientific Research Centre (CNRS) and the National Institute for Health and Medical Research (INSERM).

The city is home to a diverse range of businesses. Those that enjoy an international reputation include textiles, chemicals and pharmaceuticals. The urban areas of Lyon have attracted several renowned IT companies, such as Cap Gemini France and Infogrames. Lyon and the surrounding area are home to more than 100 hi-tech companies employing some 2000 people. Additionally, the region is considered the French and European capital for interactive leisure. Outside Paris, Lyon is also the main centre for business and management consultancy services, including companies such as Ernst and Young and Altran. The service sector as a whole represents about three-quarters of the total jobs in Lyon.

Most hi-tech companies are located in the Garland area, while Part-Dieu is the more general business district of Lyon, where large restructuring is underway. To the northeast of central Lyon is La Cité Internationale, which has been home to INTERPOL, the international police organisation, since 1990.

Compared to the national average of 8.7%, unemployment in the Rhône-Alpes region is about 7.2%. For the past couple of years, Lyon itself has steadily had one of the highest rates of job creation in France, particularly in the service sector.

Business Etiquette
Offices are normally open Monday to Friday 0900-1800, with an hour lunch break between 1300 and 1400. Since the introduction of the 35-hour week in France, some people are not available in offices on Friday afternoons. Suits and ties are the norm in the financial sector, while the dress code in other businesses tends to be more relaxed, although it is still better for business visitors to avoid being too casual.

The French always exchange business cards at meetings. It is best to address people for the first time with their full title (Monsieur, Madame, Mademoiselle, Professeur or Docteur). If speaking French, it is advisable to use the polite ‘vous’ form when meeting for the first time or if the relationship is formal. The informal ‘tu’ should only be used once the other person has started to use this him/herself.

Meetings may be booked for before or after lunch but will often occur over lunch or dinner, where wine will play a big part in the meal. Normally, the person who organised the meeting pays the bill. More social dinners are often long and leisurely affairs in Lyon. At formal dinners, diners must wait for the most important guest or the host to give the signal to start eating.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Touring the city of Lyon can easily keep even the most enthusiastic sightseer busy for a long weekend. Any sightseeing trip should begin with Fourvière Hill, now at the heart of Lyon’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Access to the summit is on a funicular railway, known as la ficelle (the string), from the station in avenue Adolphe Max. This leads to the foot of the Basilica of Fourvière. Coming down from Fourvière Hill, the heritage area extends to include Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), Croix-Rousse and the Presqu’île area.

Old Lyon is the largest Renaissance quarter in France. It is also notable for the St-Jean Cathedral and the famous traboules – the covered walkways linking entire blocks of houses. The area of Croix-Rousse is the quarter where the canuts (or silk-weavers) worked. At the centre of place de la Croix-Rousse is a memorial to Joseph-Marie Jacquard, who developed a new type of silk loom at the beginning of the 19th century, which cemented Lyon’s place as a centre for the silk trade.

The Presqu’île area is home to the Museum of Fine Arts, as well as luxurious boutiques, such as Cartier and Hermès, which can be found on rue du Président Herriot.

Lyon also boasts a large number of restaurants, some of them among the finest in France to display the Michelin stars. Probably the most famous restaurant in Lyon is chef Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant Paul Bocuse, 40 rue de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or (tel: (04) 7242 9090; fax: (04) 7227 8587; website: www.bocuse.fr). If budgets do not stretch that far, a ‘must’ for any tourist is to enjoy some of Lyon’s specialities, such as quenelles (a seasoned ball or dumpling, usually made of meat), in a bouchon or traditional restaurant.

Four museums (the Natural History Museum, Saint Roimain en Gal, the Gallo Romain Museum at Fourvière, and the Doll Museum now offer free admission on Thursday (website: www.rhone.fr).

Tourist Information
Office du Tourisme
Place Bellecour
Tel: (04) 7277 6969.
Fax: (04) 7842 0432.
E-mail: lyoncvb@lyon-france.com
Website: www.lyon-france.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1000-1800.

There are also tourist information offices at Avenue Adolphe Max, in Old Lyon, and at 3 avenue Aristide Briand, in Villeurbanne.

Passes
The Lyon City Card is valid for one, two or three days at a cost of ¬18, ¬28 and ¬38 respectively. This card allows free and unlimited use of city transport, free access to 19 museums, guided tours and river cruises. A ‘junior’ version, for those aged 4 to18 years, is now available at a cost of ¬9, ¬14 and ¬19. The Lyon City Card also includes short noon concerts at the Lyon National Opera (‘comptoir’) or at the Auditorium de Lyon (‘expresso’). Cards are sold at the Tourist Office (see above) and at several other locations in the city, notably the Lyon TCL (public transport offices) agencies at Part Dieu, Bellecour, Perrache, Vieux Lyon and Republique, as well as at the reception desks of many hotels.

Key Attractions

Basilique de Notre Dame de Fourvière (Basilia of Fourvière)
The Basilica of Fourvière dominates Lyon. It is situated on top of the hill where the Romans first set up camp and is visible from almost any point in the city centre. During the Franco-Prussian War, the Catholics of Lyon vowed that they would construct a giant church on Fourvière Hill, in honour of the Virgin Mary, if she would spare the city from the enemy. The city was spared and so the church was built. The basilica was inaugurated in 1896 and represents a somewhat chaotic mixture of styles and materials. Even though it has been much criticised for its rather confusing architecture (and has been given nicknames like ‘the upside-down elephant’), it remains an important focal point in the lives of the Lyonnais. The adjoining esplanade gives a panoramic view of Lyon’s different quarters. A free guided tour is available from April to September at 1400.

Place de Fourvière
Tel: (04) 7825 5182. Fax: (04) 7238 2835.
Transport: Métro Fourvière.
Opening hours: Daily 0630-1900.
Admission: Free.

Cathédrale St-Jean
This beautiful cathedral is situated at the foot of the Fourvière Hill. It was built between the late 12th and 15th centuries, on the remains of a fifth-century church, offering a perfect illustration of the transition from Roman to Gothic architecture. The crypt provides the opportunity for visitors to see the foundations of the cathedral. The stone medallions and glass mosaics are worth a closer look, with some of them dating from the 14th century. The cathedral has maintained a 14th-century astronomical clock equipped with a surprisingly sophisticated system of automatons.

Place St-Jean
Tel: (04) 7842 2825. Fax: (04) 7838 0741.
Transport: Métro Vieux Lyon.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1200 and 1400-1930, Sat and Sun 0800-1200 and 1400-1700.
Admission: Free.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts)
The Museum of Fine Arts is located in the very heart of the city and is housed in the former Abbey of the Ladies of St-Pierre. The origins of this former Benedictine convent stretch back to the seventh century, although it was entirely rebuilt in the 17th century. Known as ‘little Louvre’, the museum, with its 7000 sq metres (75,320 sq ft) of exhibition space, offers a complete retrospective of Ancient Greek and Egyptian arts and civilisations, as well as sculptures and paintings from the Middle Ages to the present day. Although the museum boasts a varied collection of different art forms, it is dominated by paintings. An overview of European painting from the 14th century to the second half of the 20th is on display, with works from artists such as Tintoretto, Rubens, Manet, Monet, Picasso and many others. Lyonnais painters are also well represented.

20 place des Terreaux
Tel: (04) 7210 1740. Fax: (04) 7828 1245.
Website: www.mairie-lyon.fr
Transport: Métro Hôtel de Ville.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1030-1800.
Admission: ¬4 (concessions available).

Musée de la Civilisation Gallo-Romaine (Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilisation)
On the archaeological site of Fourvière, this museum contains the richest archaeological collections from Gaul after the National Museum of St-Germain-en-Laye. The museum was built around the remains of the archaeological site, partly underground, with subterranean passages through the site connecting the various exhibits. Its collection comes primarily from discoveries made in Lyon and throughout the Rhône-Alpes region. Of special interest are the extraordinary series of inscriptions, statues, mosaics, sarcophagi and everyday objects of Gallo-Roman life. One of the museum’s most prized possessions is the Claudius Tablet, which contains fragments of a speech made by Emperor Claudius in front of the Roman Senate.

17 rue Cléberg
Tel: (04) 7238 8190. Fax: (04) 7238 7742.
Website: www.rhone.fr/galloromain.html
Transport: Métro Vieux Lyon, then funicular.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Nov-Apr); Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (Mar-Oct).
Admission: ¬3.80; concessions available; free on Thursday.

Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)
The construction of the City Hall began in 1646, although it was renovated later on, in the 17th century, following partial destruction by fire in 1674. The original structure was Louis XIII in style, however, later embellishments made the outside more elaborate and Italianate, with sculptured pediments and domes gracing the pavilions. The interior, with its extravagant Baroque-style decor, is the result of 19th-century renovation. Highlights include Thomas Blachet’s 17th-century allegorical frescoes and the most impressive room, the ‘Grand Salon’. However, the great staircase is the unmissable centrepiece and visitors should look up at the vaulted ceiling celebrating ‘L’éternité de la gloire de Lyon’ (‘the eternal glory of Lyon’). The bell tower is also impressive, with three of the original 1675 bells and a 20th-century carillon.

Place de la Comédie
Tel: (04) 7210 3030. Fax: (04) 7210 3153.
E-mail: webmaster@mairie-lyon.fr
Website: www.mairie-lyon.fr
Transport: Métro Hôtel de Ville.
Opening hours: No individual visits are possible – group visits must be organised two weeks in advance through the Tourist Office.
Admission: ¬110 (for a group of up to 30 people).

Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Centre for the History of the Resistance and Deportation, CHRD)
This well designed museum puts Lyon’s role in the resistance and deportation of World War II into context. Ironically, the museum is located in the former headquarters of the Gestapo – the place where the local Gestapo leader, Klaus Barbie, known as the ‘Butcher of Lyon’, tortured or killed his victims and sent thousands of others to concentration camps. The curators of the permanent exhibition have made a conscious effort to illustrate the somewhat ambiguous position of France during its occupation, while also portraying the importance of Lyon as a centre of organised French resistance.

14 avenue Berthelot
Tel: (04) 7273 3354.
E-mail: chrd@mairie-lyon.fr
Website: www.mairie-lyon.fr
Transport: Métro Jean Macé.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1730.
Admission: ¬4 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Maison des Canuts (Silk-Weavers’ House)
Maison des Canuts is both a museum of silk weaving and a co-operative, created to preserve the traditions of the industry and sell its own designs. It has an important collection of historical textiles and houses examples of the famous Jacquard loom. With a guided tour narrated by authentic canuts or silk-weavers, this museum offers a fascinating insight into the silk industry.

10-12 rue d’Ivry
Tel: (04) 7828 6204. Fax: (04) 7828 1693.
E-mail: musées@lyon.cci.fr
Transport: Métro Croix Rousse.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1400-1830, Sat 0900-1200 and 1400-1800.
Admission: ¬3 (concessions available).

Musée des Tissus (Textiles Museum)
Since 1946, this museum has been situated in a 17th-century mansion, which used to be the residence of the Governor of Lyon. The museum houses a remarkable collection of over 1000 textile samples from both Eastern and Western civilisations throughout the ages and tells the story of textiles, with particular attention on silk-manufacturing from the Renaissance to the present day and the development of Lyon as the European silk capital.

34 rue de la Charité
Tel: (04) 7838 4200. Fax: (04) 7240 2512.
Website: www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus
Transport: Métro Ampère Victor Hugo.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1730.
Admission: ¬4.50.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Lyon’s Tourist Office (tel: (04) 7277 6969; e-mail: visit@lyon-france.com; website: www.lyon-france.com) offers a variety of walking tours in several languages. There are guided tours, such as the two-hour ‘Maison des Canuts and the traboules of Croix-Rousse Hill’ tour and the ‘Lyon Renaissance district’ tour, which takes in the Renaissance district of Lyon (both tours cost ¬9). Three-hour guided tours of a world of images, poetry, art and the 24 murals dedicated to local architect Tony Garnier also are available and arranged through the Tourist Office, costing ¬9. Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen.

The Tourist Office also offers an audio-guided tour of Lyon, complete with an itinerary map and personal stereos for hire in four languages (English, German, Spanish and Italian) for ¬6.

Self-guided tours are also available with the excellent guidebook World Heritage Excursions, costing ¬6. These include ‘Presqu’île North’ and ‘Presqu’île South’.

Bus Tours
Philibert Lyon Vision (tel: (04) 7898 5662; e-mail: web-tou-recep@philibert.fr; website: www.philibert.fr) runs a number of sightseeing tours in air-conditioned coaches. A 90-minute tour of the city costs ¬15 and passes through Old Lyon, Fourvière Hill, Croix-Rousse and many other sites and monuments. The coach leaves Lyon Perrache station at 0900, 1030, 1330, 1530 and 1730.

Boat Tours
Naviginter, 13 bis quai Rambaud (tel: (04) 7842 9681; fax: (04) 7842 1109; e-mail: contact@naviginter.fr; website: www.naviginter.fr) offers various river cruises, including the two-hour tour up the Sâone River, which costs ¬7.50. The tour starts and finishes at quai Rambaud.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Pérouges: The medieval city of Pérouges, surrounded by green fields, is situated in the Dombes region, approximately 34km (22 miles) from Lyon and accessible from exit 7 of the A42. Once inside the city’s ramparts, the visitor is transported back to the Middle Ages with a fortress church, picturesque houses and shops. Other features include the Porte d’en Bas and the Porte d’en Haut (the upper and lower gates), which lead onto rue des Rondes and the Ostellerie (Hostelry), at the end of rue des Princes on place du Tilleul. The latter is one of the most beautiful residences in Pérouges, dating from the 13th century and listed as a historic monument. Additional information is available from the Tourist Office in Pérouges (tel: (04) 7461 0114; e-mail: info@perouges.org; website: www.perouges.org).

Grottes de la Balme (Grottos of Balme): The Grottes de la Balme (tel: (04) 7490 6376; fax: (04) 7490 6703) are one of the most beautiful natural wonders of France, situated about 45km (28 miles) from Lyon, between Crémieu and Lagnieu. There is a lake, a waterfall and many other natural features to explore. Entrance to the caves, which includes a guided tour, costs ¬6. The caves are open 1000-1200 and 1400-1800, with limited opening in November and February and weekends. The caves are closed between 15 December and 1 February every year. Visitors can reach the caves by following the signs to Crémieu, after exiting the A43 at Saint Quentin Fallavier.

For a Whole Day

Chemin de Fer du Vivarais (Vivarais Railway): The Vivarais Railway is located in a superb part of the Doux Valley. By road, it is accessible via the A7, exiting at Tain. By train, the closest stations are Tain-Tournon or Valence, from where a bus goes to Tournon. The railway, built between 1886 and 1905, goes from Tournon to Lamastre and is powered by authentic machinery dating from the beginning of the century. The whole trip lasts two hours and passes through magnificent countryside. Trips are available from April to November. A return trip costs ¬17.50 and a single ¬16. The railway is managed by Chemin de Fer Touristique et de Montagne, 2 quai Jean Moulin (tel: (04) 7828 8334; fax: (04) 7200 9767; website: http://mastrou.free.fr).

Beaujolais area: A day excursion in the Beaujolais area takes the visitor on a picturesque road through vineyards and can incorporate the Hameau en Beaujolais (Hamlet in Beaujolais), situated 30km (19 miles) from Lyon, in the heart of the Beaujolais area. The Hamlet (tel: (03) 8535 2222; e-mail: info@hameau-du-vin.tm.fr; website: www.hameauenbeaujolais.com) is a living museum of vineyards and wine production, with guided tours lasting two hours and costing ¬11.50. The price includes a free Beaujolais or Mâconnais wine-tasting session. Open daily 0900-1800 (closed 2 January-18 January), the Hamlet is accessible from Lyon via the A6, exiting at Belleville or by train from Lyon to Romanèche-Thorins.

Sport

Football is at the heart of the sporting life of the city, with its home team, Olympique Lyonnais (website: www.olympiquelyonnais.com), doing very well in the French first league, achieving a second place standing, just behind Nice and comfortably ahead of Olympique de Marseille, in 2002. The team is based at the Stade de Gerland, avenue Jean Jaurès (tel: (04) 7872 7545; fax: (04) 7869 1066), a classified historical monument designed by local architect Tony Garnier, in 1926. The stadium is not normally open for visits, except during matches and concerts. This was one of the host venues for the 1998 World Cup.

Tickets for sporting events can be purchased from Billeterie du Progrès, 52 rue Servient (tel: (08) 3668 6938).

Bowling: Bowling is on offer at the AMF Bowling Lyon, Part-Dieu shopping centre (tel: (04) 7862 6432), and the Bowling du 8e, rue Marius Berliet (tel: (04) 7801 2165).

Fitness centres: BAD’s, 44 rue Victor Lagrange (tel: (04) 7271 5050), Cadance Pascale Pecolo, 14 rue Pizay (tel: (04) 7828 1861), Gym Sport Loisirs, 2 rue Crimée (tel: (04) 7828 1313), and Club Pleine Forme, 81 rue de la République (tel: (04) 7837 9316), are all sports centres that are open to the public.

Golf: There are many golf courses in Lyon and the Rhône-Alpes region. Two nine-hole public courses are Golf du Miribel Jaunage, Vaulx en Velin (tel: (04) 7880 5620), and the Golf de l’Isle d’Abeau, Le Rival, L’Isle d’Abeau (tel: (04) 7443 2884). Green fees range from ¬15 to ¬25. Additionally, there are many private golf courses where green fees range from ¬32 to ¬45.50. The Golf Club du Gouverneur, Monthieux (tel: (04) 7226 4034), has three courses – an 18-hole championship course, an 18-hole general course and a nine-hole course for beginners. The Golf Club du Beaujolais, Lucenay (tel: (04) 7467 0444), is aimed at all levels but remains rather technical.

Jogging: There are numerous jogging circuits available in the parks of Lyon, with the most popular in Parc de la Tête d’Or, Parc de Parilly or Parc de la Croix-Laval.

Swimming: For information on Lyon’s swimming pools, visitors should contact the Lyon City Council (tel: (04) 7860 1818). The Piscine Municipale, 349 avenue Jean Jaures (tel: (04) 7872 6617), and Piscine Municipale, chemin André Latarjet (tel: (04) 7874 3309), are both public pools. There is also the Garibaldi Swimming Pool, 221 rue Garibaldi (tel: (04) 7860 8966), and the Saint Exupéry Swimming Pool, 11 rue Pétrus Sambardier (tel: (04) 7829 8066).

Tennis: Tennis courts are available at Lyon Métropole Sports, 84 quai Joseph Gillet (tel: (04) 7829 5328), Tennis Club de Lyon, 3 boulevard du 11 Novembre (tel: (04) 7889 4968), and Tennis Club de la Pape, 323 boulevard Marcel Yves-André (tel: (04) 7888 7664).

Shopping

Lyon is a real shopper’s paradise. The area of the Presqu’île boasts the most attractive streets for shopping, such as rue Victor Hugo and rue de la République, where the big department stores of Printemps and Galeries Lafayette are located.

The rue du Président Herriot, with its elegant 19th-century buildings, makes an ideal setting for the luxury boutiques of Cartier, Hermès, Gucci or Louis Vuitton. Fine antiques and old books can be found on rue Auguste Comte or at La Cité des Antiquaires near the Parc de la Tête d’Or. Rue Auguste Comte is a lively street with some 80 shops devoted to antiques. La Cité is open on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 0930-1230 and 1430-1900.

For furniture and home decoration stores, it is best for shoppers to go to Cours de la Liberté. For casual shopping, Part-Dieu shopping centre is ideal and is one of Europe’s largest, with over 200 stores.

Chocolate is the best speciality gift available in the city. Although the Swiss and Belgians might take issue, it could be argued that Lyon has the finest chocolate factory in the world. Bernachon, 42 cours Franklin Roosevelt, is open Tuesday-Saturday 0800-1900 and Sunday 0800-1700.

To really understand the link between Lyon and good food, a visit to one of major markets is a must. Every morning from Tuesday to Sunday, there is a market on quai St-Antoine on the banks of the river Saône and another market on boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, in one of Lyon’s liveliest districts. In the third arrondissement (quarter), 102 Cours Lafayette, there is the covered market, Les Halles de Lyon, which is open every day. There is a craft market on quai Fulchiron, on Sunday morning 8000-1300.

Most shops are usually open from Monday to Saturday between 0930 and 1930 but closed on Sundays. Some small grocery stores are open Sunday morning. VAT (Value Added Tax) can vary between 5% and 20%, depending on the goods bought. Non-EU visitors can obtain a tax refund for purchases over ¬183, provided all the relevant receipts are retained. It is best for visitors to enquire with customs officers on arrival in France or Lyon, for specific details. The information service of French Customs (tel: (04) 7277 3938) is useful for customs and VAT enquiries, as is Global Refund (website: www.globalrefnd.com).

Culture

Innovation and creation – Lyon has always favoured this combination and in doing so has developed a strong cultural influence. Cultural events and institutions benefit from one of the largest chunks of Lyon’s budget – and it shows. The presence in Lyon of prestigious cultural institutions, such as the National Opera, the National Orchestra, the Lumière Institute, La Maison de la Danse and the Célestins Theatre, contribute to the city’s international reputation. Lyon also is a musical city, enjoying ancient, classic, contemporary, international, traditional French songs, rap, rock and more. Of course, this is not to mention dance, theatre and cabaret too, all of which are prevalent in the city. The city nurtures creation and hosts productions from around the world. The Conservatoire national supérieur and the Conservatoire national de région are among the most important centres of musical learning in France outside Paris.

Tickets for theatrical or musical events can be bought from the booking offices directly or from FNAC, 85 rue de la République (tel: (04) 7240 4949). Local newspapers and magazines, such as the weekly Lyon Poche or Lyon Capitale, carry information about cultural events taking place in the city.

Music: The National Opera, 1 place de la Comédie (tel: (04) 7200 4500 or 4545; fax: (04) 7200 4501; e-mail: rpublic@opera-lyon.org; website: www.opera-lyon.org), houses several institutions. Among them is the Opera Orchestra, which started from scratch in 1983, with young musicians and experienced conductors. Its musical director since 1998 has been Luis Langrée and it alternates repertory works and new compositions.

The Lyon National Orchestra has its permanent residence in the Auditorium, 149 rue Garibaldi (tel: (04) 7895 9595; fax: (04) 7860 1308). A symphony orchestra with 102 musicians since 2000, under the direction of David Robertson, the Lyon National Orchestra has acquired an international reputation throughout the world.

The Palais des Congrès, 50 quai Charles de Gaulle (tel: (04) 7267 0188), hosts famous French artists, such as Serge Lama or Enrico Macias, as well as many classical concerts.

Theatre: From classical to contemporary, all styles are represented in Lyon. The Célestins Theatre, 4 rue Charles Dullin (tel: (04) 7277 4000; fax: (04) 7277 4006; e-mail: courrier@celestins-lyon.org), is the oldest theatre in Lyon and has had two centuries of continuous dramatic activity. It welcomes Parisian shows as well as regional companies, with productions ranging from classical theatre to music hall. Le Théâtre des Jeunes Années, founded by Maurice Yendt, at 23 rue de Bourgogne (tel: (04) 7253 1515; fax: (04) 7253 1519), in 1968, is a permanent venue for contemporary theatre. It also offers special children’s productions.

Lyon was also the birthplace of the theatrical puppet figure known as Guignol, which was created in 1808, by Laurent Mourguet. This tradition is still alive today with the Compagnie Laurent Cappezone, 2 rue Louis Carrand (tel: (04) 7828 9257).

There are many theatres offering young people an opportunity to be noticed, such as Les Maronniers, 7 rue des Maronniers (tel: (04) 7837 9817), Les Clochards Célestes, 51 rue des Tables Claudiennes (tel: (04) 7827 0695), Le Carré 30, 12 rue Pizay (tel: (04) 7839 7461), and Le Théâtre de la Crois-Rousse, 3 place Johannès Ambre (tel: (04) 7207 4949; website: www.croix-rousse.com).

Dance: The Lyon Opera House Ballet Company, place de la Comédie (tel: (04) 7200 4545), offers a contemporary repertoire of international standing. The Maison de la Danse, 8 avenue Jean Mermoz (tel: (04) 7278 1818; fax: (04) 7875 5566; e-mail: maisondeladanse@wanadoo.fr; website: www.maisondeladanse.com), was created in 1980. The company, directed by Guy Darmet, is completely devoted to choreographic art, with an emphasis on new creations and welcomes French and foreign companies.

Film: In 1895, the Lumière brothers invented cinematography and shot the first ever film. The Lumière Institute (tel: (04) 7878 1895; fax: (04) 7801 3662; website: www.mairie-lyon.fr) offers cinema screenings every day, costing ¬4.50. It is also the best place for film aficionados to catch celluloid rarities and arthouse movies.

There are many other cinemas in Lyon, offering a wide choice of movies, including CNP Bellecour, 12 rue de la Barre (tel: (04) 7842 3322), UGC Ciné-cité, 60 quai Charles de Gaulle (tel: (04) 7269 7070), and Pathé, 79 rue de la République (tel: (04) 7837 6464). There are, however, no options for visitors who do not understand the mother tongue – English-language theatres are non existent in Lyon.

There are many French movies that have been shot in Lyon, for example Lucie Aubrac (1996) by Claude Berry, Louis Enfant-Roi (1991) by Roger Planchon and Les Voleurs (1995) by André Téchiné.

Cultural events: Les Nuits de Fourvière takes place from June to September and is one of the highlights of the summer events in Lyon. It offers a prestigious selection of musical and theatrical performances in the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre of Fourvière.

Since 1991, Lyon has hosted the prestigious National Biennial Festivals of Dance and Contemporary Art. In 2003, the Biennial will be held between mid September and the end of the month. Hundreds of dancers, musicians and singers will present creations around the theme of South American territories ‘from the fire of the earth down to the Rio Grande river’. More than 100 artists from all over the world will come to present their creations in the Halle Tony Garnier, 20 place Antonin Perrin (tel: (04) 7276 8585; fax: (04) 7872 3707; e-mail: htg@halle-tony-garnier.com; website: www.halle-tony-garnier.com).

The Festival of Lights is one of Lyon’s most popular and traditional events. The 150-year-old tradition takes place on 8 December every year and is a religious celebration that honours the statue of the Virgin Mary on Fourvière Hill. The people of Lyon put lanterns on their balconies and their windowsills and then congregate on the streets to enjoy the spectacle. A range of different performances are also organised at the same time throughout other parts of Lyon.

Literary Notes
During the Renaissance, the Lyon publishing industry was the most important one in France. Rabelais (1483-1553) was a doctor at Hôtel Dieu in Lyon, before writing Pantagruel (1532) and Gargantua (1535). The poet, Louise Labé (1526-1566), was born in Lyon and used to hold a literary salon in the city.

The year 2000 saw the centenary of the birth of one of Lyon’s most famous authors, Antoine de St-Exupéry, best known as the author of Le Petit Prince (1943). St-Exupéry wrote many other well known books, such as Courier du Sud (1927), Terres des Hommes (1939) and Vol de Nuit (1931), before disappearing in his aircraft over the Mediterranean Sea in 1944. To celebrate the centenary of his birth, Lyon’s airport changed its name from Lyon-Satolas to Lyon-St-Exupéry.

Nightlife

The best way to see the city’s architectural heritage is by night, when over 100 sites are illuminated. Like most international cities, Lyon has a good selection of bars, clubs, café-theatres, a casino and many other features. Old Lyon, the banks of the Saône, the Presqu’île and Croix Rousse are the liveliest districts at night. There is a wide variety of bars or pubs scattered all over the city and it is not always easy to choose between Irish, English, Latino, Cuban and the exotic among the range of watering holes available. There are also traditional Lyonnais bars. Cyber cafés are becoming ever more popular in Lyon and these are generally open quite late. There are many nightclubs in Lyon, catering for all tastes, although smart dress is advised (no jeans or trainers).

Bars can serve alcohol until 0300 and the minimum age for drinking is 18 years. The average price for a draught beer is about ¬3 and between ¬3 and ¬4 for a glass of wine in most bars in Lyon.

Information on Lyon’s nightlife is availabale online (website: www.webcity.com). Having accessed the main pages, users then have to search under ‘Lyon’. Information in print is found in Lyon Poche, Lyon Débrouille, Lyon Jour et Nuit and Le Petit Paumé.

Bars: The Albion, 12 rue Ste-Catherine, is a popular English-style bar with two giant screens for concerts and sporting events, a dartboard and a wide selection of draught beers. There are concerts on Wednesday, from 2130 (jazz, soul, rhythm and blues). The Saint-James’s Pub, 19 rue St-Jean, is a traditional Irish tavern, with Irish music, a dartboard and pool tables. Latin-style pubs, such as Le Moana, 20 quai Pierre Scize, guarantee exotic decor and drinks. For a more traditional Lyonnais feel, there is Le 110 Vins, rue Saint Georges, or Café du Soleil, rue Saint Georges – a typical Lyonnais café, with references to the famous local puppet, Guignol, in its decor.

Casinos: There is one casino in Lyon, Le Lyon Vert, 200 avenue du Casino. It is open every day 1000-0400 and offers about 400 fruit machines, as well as blackjack, stud poker tables and roulette wheels. There are three restaurants and the luxurious surroundings throughout require a smart dress code. The age restriction is 18 years and some form of identification, although not necessarily a passport, is required for entrance.

Clubs: L’Alibi, 13 quai Romain Rolland, offers disco music on Tuesday, ladies’ night on Wednesday and is the place for those who want to party. The club is open from 1030 until dawn. Another happening place is The Hot Club, 26 rue Lanterne, which is a music club set in an arched cellar. Open Tuesday-Saturday 2100-0100, the club features jam sessions and jazz concerts.

Live music: Le Bar de la Tour Rose, 22 rue du Boeuf, is situated in an old Jeu de Paume (a type of 13th-century tennis court). The venue has an authentic chimney, Renaissance panelling and comfortable sofas. It holds jazz concerts and readings (October-May) on Friday and Saturday at 2130 and Sunday at 1800, serving traditional beverages, as well as cocktails and cigars. Eden Rock Café, 68 rue Mercière, is an American-style café with rock, blues, funk and country concerts. There is an excellent piano bar, Le Ciel de Lyon, located on the 32nd floor of the Part Dieu Tower, Hôtel Méridien, 129 rue Servient, which is open every day from 1100-0130 and features a pianist on Tuesday and Thursday, as well as jazz every Wednesday.

City Statistics

Location: Rhône-Alpes region, France.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 445,000 (city); 1,167,000 metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: European, North African and Sub-Saharan African.
Religion: Roman Catholic, Protestant, Jewish and Muslim.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3°C (37°F).
Average July temp: 21°C (70°F).
Annual rainfall: 826mm (33 inches).

Special Events

World Pastry Cup, late Jan, Eurexpo, Parc des Expositions
Bocuse d’Or, world cuisine contest, late Jan, Eurexpo, Parc des Expositions
Suivez le Jazz (Festival of Jazz), mid Mar, various venues
Foire Internationale de Lyon (Lyon International Fair), lifestyle fair, late Mar, Eurexpo, Parc des Expositions
Gloubi Boulga Night, evening of animation, early Apr, Bourse du Travail, Place Guichard, Rue de la Part Dieu
Festival des Voix des Origines, singing festival, mid May, various venues
Lyon Pride, gay and lesbian festival, Jun, parade departs from Saxe Gambetta
Art on the Table, public picnics, Jun-Jul, Place Chardonnet
Les Estivales, free events, various venues and concerts in the courtyard of Hôtel de Ville.
Les Nuits de Fourvière (Fourvière Nights), musical and theatrical performance, mid-Jun-mid-Sep, open-air Roman Theatres of Fourvièr
Fête Nationale (National Holiday), celebration of Bastille Day, marked the evening before with a firework display, 14 Jul, throughout the city
Lyon Reggae Festival, Jul, Eurexpo, Parc des Expositions
Tupiniers Pottery Fair, 6 Sep, St Jean Cathedral Square
Les Musicades, chamber music, Sep, Musée des Beaux Arts
Interior Decoration Fair, Sep, Eurexpo, Parc des Expositions
Biennale de Lyon de la Danse (Biennial of Dance), 14 days non-stop performances (website: www.biennale-de-lyon.org), second half of Sep, various venues
Biennale de Lyon D’Art Contemporain (Biennial of Contemporary Art), second half of Sep, Halle Tony Garnier
Red Carpet Antiques Festival, 2 Oct, Rue Auguste Compte
Grand Prix de Tennis de Lyon, Oct, Palais des Sports de Gerland
Automobile Salon Consumer Fair, Oct, Eurexpo, Parc des Expositions
La Semaine du Goût, food festival, Oct, various venues
Lyon Lumière Festival (Festival of Lights), 8 Dec, throughout the city
Guignol and Father Christmas, puppet show, Dec-Jan, Guignol Un Gone de Lyon, Salle de la Ficelle, 65 Boulevards des Canuts

Excellent information about all cultural events in Lyon can be found online (website: www.eldorado.fr).

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.35
33cl bottle of beer: ¬0.80
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.50
36-exposure colour film: ¬6
City-centre bus ticket: ¬2
Adult football ticket: ¬12-35
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬25-32

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005