World City Guide

According to Arab chroniclers, it was in AD 852 that the Emir of Córdoba, Mohamed I (AD 852–886), ordered a fortress to be built on the left bank of the Manzanares River, the geographical centre of the Iberian Peninsula. He named the settlement ‘Mayrit’ (‘source of water’) and in it lay the seeds of the city now known as Madrid. Traces of this flourishing Moorish town survive to this day, in a section of town wall (muralla Arabe) near the Royal Palace, as well as in the mudéjar architectural style of Madrid’s oldest church, San Nicolás de las Servitas.

Mayrit (or Magerit) was situated in a strategically important location and Christians and Arabs fought bitterly over the territory until late in the 11th century, when Alfonso VI finally settled matters by capturing the Alcázar (castle) after a three-year siege. However, it would be another 500 years before Philip II took the historic decision, in 1561, to move his capital from Valladolid to Madrid. Today, Madrid remains Spain’s financial and political core, home to the Cortes (Parliament), Senate and Royal Family, as well as the extraordinary cultural riches of the Golden Triangle – the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza art museums.

With a population of just over three million, Madrid is Europe’s fourth largest city (after London, Paris and Milan) and its highest capital, at 650m (2,132ft) above sea level. The repression and torpor of the Franco era (1939–75) are now all but forgotten by Madrileños who, perhaps more than any other Spaniards, are determined to vivir a tope (live life to the full). The craving for conspicuous enjoyment, not to mention the 2,800 hours of annual sunshine, turn the streets into bustling centres of public display. Madrid’s infectious and colourful fiestas punctuate the year, with each barrio (district) trying to outdo the other in its celebrations. The highlights include Reyes Magos (Feast of the Three Kings), Carnival, the religious processions of Holy Week, the San Isidro festival in May (the beginning of the bullfighting season) and Nochevieja (New Year’s Eve), when the Puerta del Sol becomes the focal point during several hours of uninhibited partying. Visitors should also look out for the major cultural festivals, notably the Veranos de la Villa in summer and the autumn Festival de Otoño, embracing film, dance, theatre and music of every description. Although Madrid’s climate is more extreme than other Spanish locations, the warm dry summers and cool winters still allow for many alfresco activities.

Although anxious to appear ‘modern’ in clothes, outlook and lifestyle, Madrileños remain fiercely traditional, clinging to their customs more noticeably than their cosmopolitan Barcelonese rivals do. Most choose to live at home until marriage, divorce remains controversial (particularly in high society) and the family surpasses everything.

While the Comunidad de Madrid (Madrid Province) stretches over 8,000sq km (3,090sq miles), the city’s historic heart is easily explored on foot. The narrow, labyrinthine streets of the medieval quarter contrast with the grand boulevards, laid out in the 18th and 19th centuries – the period when Madrid began to take on the trappings of a modern capital. Each barrio (district) has its own distinctive atmosphere – Lavapiés, Malasaña and Chueca being the oldest and most interesting. Many visitors first get to know the central area, known as the Madrid of the Austrias (a reference to the Hapsburg era), situated roughly between the Palacio Real and the Puerta del Sol, Madrid’s ‘mile zero’. It is only a short walk from here to the city’s main street, the Gran Vía, lined with shops, banks, offices, bars and cinemas. Fashionable Madrid starts with the Salamanca district and the boutiques of Calle Serrano, while the modern business quarter extends along the north–south axis, known as the Paseo de la Castellana. Distinguished by its skyscrapers and impressive office blocks, this is where the multinationals have their headquarters. At the far (northern) end of the Paseo de la Castellana are the ‘leaning towers’ of the Puerta de Europa (Gateway of Europe), a daring display of architecture symbolising the city’s confidence in its future. Indeed, Madrid has already launched its bid to host the 2012 Olympic Games, which would not only win the city some desirable developments and revenue but also award Madrid the status of one of the world’s major players.

Since the 11 March 2004 terrorist attacks, where 191 people died after a series of bombs exploded simultaneously on commuter trains heading toward the mainline train station Atocha at the height of the rush hour, the city has sobered up quite considerably. The bombings produced a sense of unprecedented solidarity. Everybody went out of their way to help the victims, by donating blood, driving the injured in private vehicles, helping friends and family search for victims, giving food and drink, offering shelter, or simply by listening to those affected. Since then, even though Madrid is used to terrorist attacks, mainly from radical Basque separatist group ETA, the train bombings bought a sense of unease and suspicion not felt since the death of General Franco in 1979 and the subsequent period of transition and political instability. Despite the brutality of the attacks, it has been ‘business as usual’ with no noticeable impact on the economy. Many of the victims of 11 March 2004 where immigrants, and as a result the Government has issued residence permits to the families of the victims.

The best times to visit Madrid is between March-June and then during September and October. July in Madrid must be avoided at all costs because it is when the heat will be at its most extreme. August, while still a very hot month, is the month where most locals will take their holidays and the resulting exodus to the seaside resorts leave Madrid rather empty, which although very practical in terms of avoiding crowds, it does mean that most shops and businesses will be shut for the entire month.

Getting There By Air

Barajas International Airport (MAD)
Tel: 902 353 570. Fax: (91) 301 0033.
Website: www.aena.es

Barajas airport, located 13km (8 miles) from Madrid’s city centre, has three terminals serving more than 36 million passengers per year. Terminal one handles all international flights (except Iberia flights to Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands and Portugal). Terminal two serves domestic flights and the Iberia international flights listed above. Terminal three is used primarily for the Madrid-Barcelona shuttle.

Major airlines: In addition to Spain’s national airline, Iberia (tel: 902 400 500; website: www.iberia.es), over 50 airlines serve Barajas, including Air France, Alitalia, American Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, easyJet, KLM, Lufthansa, SAS, Swiss and Thai Airways International.

Approximate flight times to Madrid: From London is 2 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 7 hours; from Los Angeles is 11 hours; from Toronto is 7 hours and from Sydney is 27 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include banks, bureaux de change, ATMs, pharmacies, hotel and rail reservation, tourist information, left luggage, a post office, shops, restaurants, bars, and car hire from Avis, Atesa International, Budget, Europcar and Hertz.

Business facilities: The airport has two business lounges in terminal one, with fax and telephone facilities. Iberia has lounges in both terminal one and two. There are several meeting rooms which can be hired out for meetings, receptions, expositions and conferences in both terminals (tel: (913) 936 808/797; e-mail: salasbarajas@aena.es)

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: By Bus: Linea 200 links the airport and the city. Daily departures from Avenida de America from 0520-2330, and from Bajaras Airport from 0536-2330. First departure from Avenida de America is from bus stand no.8, subsequent departures from the main bus stop (c/Darsena 18). A single ticket costs ¬2.50 and this allows you two pieces of luggage, each additional piece of luggage costs ¬2.50. Information tel: 914 068 810. By underground: Linea 8, Nuevos Ministerios-Barajas; a single ticket costs ¬1.15. Trains run from 0605-0200. By road: from the A2 exit at km 12. From the M49, exists 3 and 9 connect with the M-11 and M-14 respectively, both of which go straight to the terminals. By taxi: a taxi journey costs from ¬18–22, including a ¬4.20 airport charge (journey time – 30 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Motorways (Autopista) are prefixed by the letter ‘A’, national multi-lane roads connecting towns and cities are prefixed by the letter ‘N’ and Madrid ring roads by the letter ‘M’. Highways (Autovía) and other major roads (Carretera Nacional) are indicated by two Roman numerals or, more commonly, three digits. Many motorways incur a toll charge.

Traffic drives on the right. No person under 18 years may hire or drive a vehicle over 75cc. Seatbelts are compulsory for front-seat passengers in cars and crash helmets must be worn on motorcycles. After sunset, sidelights must be used, while spare bulbs and red hazard triangles must be kept in all vehicles. The speed limit for cars and motorcycles is 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on dual carriageways, 90kph (56mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) within towns. Fines for traffic offences are strictly enforced. Drivers who are shown to exceed the legal alcohol to blood ratio of 0.05% are fined up to ¬600.

Foreign visitors require a valid driving licence to drive in Spain. National licences from EU countries are accepted, while nationals of other countries are advised to obtain an International Driving Permit. Third-party insurance is required and documents should be carried at all times. A Green Card is strongly recommended for all visitors and is compulsory for those from outside the EU.

Real Automóvil Club de España – RACE, Eloy Gonzalo 32 (tel: 902 40 45 45; website: www.race.es) has reciprocal agreements with the AA and RAC in Britain and the AAA in America.

Emergency breakdown services:
RACE 902 30 05 05 (24 hours)

Alternatively, drivers in distress can contact the Ayuda en Carretera (operated by the Guardia Civil) on the roadside SOS telephones, who will contact the breakdown services.

Routes to the city: Motorways radiate outward from Madrid. The NI links Madrid to the French border (via Burgos and Irún), the NII to Barcelona (via Zaragoza) and the French border. The NIII weaves its way to Valencia and Alicante, the NIV to Seville and Cádiz, the NV to Badajoz at the Portuguese border (where the A6/E90 continues to Lisbon) and the N401 to Toledo. There are also two ring motorways, M30 and M40 (a third, M50, is under construction).

Approximate driving times to Madrid: From Barcelona – 7 hours 30 minutes; from Seville – 7 hours 45 minutes; from Lisbon – 8 hours 45 minutes.

Coach services: Estación Sur de Autobuses, Calle Méndez Alvaro 83 (tel: (91) 468 4200), is Madrid’s most important bus terminal for long-distance coach travel. Destinations served include Albacete, Avila, Alicante, Toledo, Barcelona, Benidorm and Santiago. ALSA, formerly known as ENATCAR (tel: (902) 422 242; website: www.enatcar.com) provides coach services between Spanish cities, operating from this station. Eurolines (tel: (902) 405 040; e-mail: info@eurolines.es; website: www.eurolines.es) has services to major cities throughout Europe and further afield, including Basel, Berlin, Fez, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Lisbon, Marrakech, Munich, Naples, Prague, Toulouse and Warsaw. Services operate out of Estación Sur de Autobuses.

Getting There By Rail

The national Spanish railway network is operated by RENFE (tel: 902 240 202; website: www.renfe.es). Madrid has two main railway stations – Estación de Chamartín (Chamartín Station), Calle Agustín de Foxá, in northern Madrid, and Estacióon de Atocha (Atocha Station), close to Paseo del Prado, at Avenida Ciudad de Barcelona, in southern Madrid. Both stations have exchange facilities, including cafés and car hire on or near the premises. Chamartín also has a post office, tourist information, hotel reservation centre, InterCity Club Room and a large shopping centre.

Mainline services in Spain are reliable and efficient but slow and sometimes crowded – it is essential for travellers to book ahead for long-distance trains. Tickets are available for purchase from stations, the RENFE office on Calle Alcalá 44 (tel: (91) 531 2624), open Monday to Friday from 09.30-2000, or from travel agents. RENFE also offers a national telephone information and ticket sales service (tel: (902) 240 202).

The Cercanías (tel: (91) 506 61 95/37) is the suburban network connecting outlying towns beyond the metro (see Public Transport). Trains are frequent and reliable and there is less overcrowding than on the metro. Atocha Station is the hub of the Cercanías suburban rail network. Príncipe Pío Station, Paseo del Rey 30, also connects with the Cercanías.

Rail services: Madrid’s rail network includes services to provincial capitals in Spain and connections to the European railway network. Chamartín Station serves trains from France, Catalonia and northern Spain, including Bilbao (journey time – 6 hours), Barcelona (journey time – 6 hours) and Oviedo (journey time – 6 hours). Atocha is Madrid’s largest station, serving trains from the regions of Andalusia, Extremadura and Portugal, including Malaga (journey time – 5 hours) and Valencia (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes). Many trains stop at both Atocha Station and Chamartín Station. Atocha is the arrival and departure point for AVE, the high-speed Madrid–Seville service calling at Córdoba (journey time – approximately 3 hours).

Transport to the city: All three stations are connected to the metro system.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Central Madrid is served by a comprehensive network of more than 150 city bus routes, a modern and extensive metro system and local trains to the neighbouring cities and towns. The main hub is Puerta del Sol.

The Consorcio de Transportes de Madrid (tel: (91) 580 42 60; website: www.ctm-madrid.es) offers maps and information on Madrid’s metro and buses.

The metro (tel: (902) 444 403; website: www.metromadrid.es) system covers more than 220km (143 miles) and is good value, clean and efficient, although crowded during rush hour. Trains run every three to five minutes, daily 0600-0130. Each of the 11 metro lines is distinguished by a colour and number (at stations and on maps). Metros run from approximately 0600-0130.

EMT (tel: (91) 406 8810; website: www.emtmadrid.es) runs Madrid’s bus service. Night buses, known as buhos (owls), depart from Plaza de Cibeles for the suburbs, between 2330 and 0600.

The local train network, operated by Cercanías (tel: (91) 506 61 95/37), comprises 11 lines in the Madrid area and provides a fast link between Charmartín Station and Atocha Station – as well as to destinations such as Toledo and El Escorial (see Excursions).

Single tickets for the metro and city buses, available for purchase on board and at stations, cost ¬1.15. Metrobús tickets (a carnet of 10 tickets) cost ¬5.80 and are available for purchase at metro stations, estancos (tobacconists) and EMT information kiosks at Plaza de Callao and Puerta del Sol. The abono transportes pass, for which a passport photo is required, offers unlimited trips on any combination of public transport – metro, bus and train – within the zone and period of time (month or year) chosen. A one-month ticket costs ¬37.15 (concessions are available). Tourist passes, which allow unlimited travel on all public transport, are also available and cost ¬3.50 for zone A and ¬7 for zone T for a day (concessions are available). Passes are also available for two, three, five and seven days.

Taxis
Oficina Municipal del Taxi (tel: (91) 588 9632) is the governing body for taxis in Madrid. City taxis (white with a diagonal red stripe and a green light on the roof) are available for hire at ranks or on the street. Meters start at ¬1.55 and rates per kilometre are ¬0.70 (0600-2200) and ¬0.88 at other times. When entering a taxi, travellers should always check that the meter is not already running, as this is an occasional scam to overcharge passengers. There are surcharges for additional passengers, luggage and telephone or airport pick-up. Taxi touts should be avoided. For tipping, rounding up to the nearest Euro is appreciated.

Major private taxi companies include TeleTaxi (tel: (91) 371 2131 or (902) 50 1130; website: www.tele-taxi.es), Radio Taxi Independiente (tel: (91) 405 1213/5500) for long-distance trips and Radio Taxi (tel: (933) 033 033), which also provides a service for the disabled.

Limousines
Limousines are available for hire at Madrid’s top hotels and from Autos Chamartín (tel: (91) 405 4599; website: www.autos-chamatin.com) and Autos Delicias Limousine (tel: (91) 434 9144). The cost is approximately ¬350 (plus driver’s lunch) for eight hours. Hiring a Mercedes with driver costs approximately ¬235.

Driving in the City
Due to frequent traffic jams, aggressive drivers and problematic parking, driving in central Madrid is not recommended to tourists. Visitors who ignore this advice should make use of centrally located car parks (including Plaza Santa Ana, Plaza Mayor, Plaza de Oriente) costing ¬0.80 per half hour (¬15.20 for a full day).

The city center is subject to the Servicio de Estacionamiento Regulado (SER, Monday to Friday 0900-2000, Saturday 0900-1500, not applicable on Sundays). This means that bays marked by green lines are for residents (whose car will bear a badge), and non-residents for a miximum of one hour and paying at the parking meter (¬0.40/¬1.20 minimum fare up to 20 minutes). Bays marked with blue lines are fine for parking for a maximum of two hours after paying at the parking meter (¬0.20/¬1.50 minimum fare up to 20 minutes). Parking meters take the full range of coins and have operational instructions in English and other European languages.

Illegally parked cars might be towed away by the grua municipal. Impounded cars should be recovered as soon as possible as the fines rise every hour (tel: (91) 345 0666).

Car Hire
Cars can be hired by drivers aged 21 years and above, on presentation of a passport and valid driving licence held for at least one year. A valid international insurance policy is also necessary and full insurance is advised. Providers include Avis, Gran Via 60 (tel: (902) 135 531 or (915) 472 048; website: www.avis.es), Europcar, San Leonardo de Dios 8 (tel: (902) 105 030; website: www.europcar.es) and Herz, edificio Espana, Plaza de Espana (tel: (902) 402 405; website: www.hertz.es). Rates start at approximately ¬65 for one day of car hire.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
There is no better way for one to get around Madrid than by bombing along on a moped, thus avoiding the parking problems that car drivers often suffer. Moto Alquiler, Calle Conde Duque 13 (tel: (91) 542 0657), offers a choice of vehicles, with prices ranging from approximately ¬30 to ¬120 per day. Bicycles are best reserved for trips out of town. Karacol Sport, Calle Tortosa 8 (tel: (91) 539 9633; website: www.karacolclub.com), hires out mountain bikes at ¬12 per bike – a ¬40 returnable deposit is required – and organises excursions into the surrounding countryside.

Business

Business Profile
In addition to being Spain’s administrative, political and communications hub, Madrid is also the leading financial centre and the country’s most important economic region. Over half of Spain’s companies have headquarters in Madrid, along with foreign banks, insurance companies and prestigious business consultants and auditing firms. The national stock exchange (Bolsa) is also based here. However, rival Barcelona is rapidly overtaking Madrid as the favoured location for international companies.

The financial, insurance and real estate sectors in Madrid are the most significant contributors to the city’s economy, representing 17% of the Spanish total. These activities are supplemented by other successful service industries, including transport and communications, media and publishing, leisure and tourism – Madrid currently receives around seven million visitors a year. As well as making a vital economic contribution, these sectors are the main sources of employment in the city, with around 150,000 people working in the transport and communications sector alone.

Foreign companies with a presence in Madrid include IBM, Peugeot, Proctor and Gamble, Shell and Siemens. Major exhibitions and trade fairs take place at Institución Ferial de Madrid (IFEMA) in the grounds of the Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I, Campo de las Naciones (tel: (902) 22 15 15; fax: (91) 722 580; e-mail infoifema@ifema.es; website: www.ifema.es), and the Palacio de Congresos de Madrid, Paseo de la Castellana 99 (tel: (91) 337 8100; fax: (91) 597 1094; website: www.pcm.tourspain.es). The Comunidad de Madrid (tel: (902) 100 007/012; website: www.comadrid.es) has up-to-date information about trade fairs and conventions. The stock exchange is situated near the Plaza de Cibeles, however, most modern businesses and an increasing number of banking headquarters are located in the north of the city, along Paseo de la Castellana – sometimes referred to as Urbanización Azca.

Madrid has launched its bid to host the 2012 Olympic Games. To enhance the city’s prospects, the developers intend to transform an area to the north of the city (already becoming known as La Nueva Castellana) into an ultra-modern sports and recreation zone. At its heart will be the Palacio Olímpico, a 20,000-seater stadium next to the Real Madrid training ground, and four skyscrapers, each rising to a height of 191m (627ft). The president of Real Madrid, Florentino Pérez, is a major investor in the scheme, estimated to cost upwards of ¬275 million.

Business growth rate was 3.5% in 2004. Although the March 2004 bomb attacks did initially affect business in Spain, specially in the tourism and transport industry, the city has since recovered, to the point where Madrid is experiencing a greater business growth rate since the attacks. Madrid has been pointed as an expanding city with many opportunities in the communications arena, as well as in the construction business. The fact that David Beckham was signed by Real Madrid and settle there with his family could also be a reason why Madrid has been put firmly in the ‘places to go’ list.

Business Etiquette
Standard business hours are Monday to Friday 0900–1400 and 1600–1900, although 0800–1500 is quite common during summer. Larger companies and multinationals, however, are increasingly working through the day, in line with the rest of Europe, although smaller and local businesses still take the mid-afternoon break or siesta. Punctuality is not the norm. Traffic jams are commonly used and readily accepted as an excuse for arriving 15 minutes late.

Breakfast meetings are popular, perhaps because these are usually accompanied by delicious cakes and strong coffee. Lunch and dinner appointments are also common. Business cards are vital at initial meetings and smart dress, including a suit (and tie for men), is advisable. Small talk is a vital accompaniment to any meeting, as personal relationships must be developed before business can be done. Children, grandchildren, the flight to Madrid and the weather usually occupy the conversation before business rears its ugly head. While Madrileños work extremely hard, nothing is of more importance than the family and it is entirely acceptable for an important telephone conversation to be postponed if a family member rings.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Madrid is best known for its ‘Golden Triangle’ of art museums – Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornomisza. The celebrated Art Walk, Paseo del Arte, links all three. The city’s focal point remains the Puerta del Sol – the eastern gate (puerta) of the city during the 15th century. The monument of the bear and madroño (strawberry tree), in the centre of the square, symbolises Madrid. The Calle Mayor leads west from Sol, to the Plaza Mayor, which evokes the splendour of Spain’s 17th-century Golden Age. The Calle de Alcalá, a grandiose thoroughfare constructed in the reign of Charles III, leads east of Sol, towards Plaza de Cibeles. The fountain, with its statue of a Greco-Roman fertility goddess astride a lion-drawn chariot, is a landmark instantly recognisable to all Spaniards. Visitors might be less impressed with the crazy merry-go-round of traffic encircling her. Overlooking Plaza de Cibeles is the imposing Palacio de Comunicaciones – the main post office, dating from 1904.

The Madrid cityscape is softened by numerous green spaces – lovely squares, such as the Plaza de Oriente, in front of the Royal Palace, and parks, most obviously the landscaped Parque del Buen Retiro and Jardín Botánico (Botanical Gardens) near the Prado. Further west is the wilder Casa de Campo, which also contains the Parque de Atraciones funfair and leisure grounds. More unusual is the greenhouse in the Atocha Station (entrance at concourse, gate 14), popular with Madrileños and visitors alike.

Tourist Information
Oficina Municipal de Turismo
Plaza Mayor 3
Tel: (91) 588 1636 or (91) 366 54 77. Fax: (91) 366 54 77.
E-mail: infoturismo@munimadrid.es
Website: www.munimadrid.es or www.descubremadrid.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-2000, Sun and bank holidays 1000-1500.

There are also branches in: Conde Duque de Medinacelli 2 (tel: (91) 429 4951; open Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 0900-1500), Mercado Puerta de Toledo 2 (tel: (91) 364 1876; open Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat 0900-1500), Aeropuerto de Barajas Terminal 1 (tel: (91) 305 8656; open Mon-Sun 0800-2000), Estacion de Chamartin (tel: (91) 315 9976; open Mon-Sat 0800-2000, Sun 0800-1500) and Estacion de Atocha (tel: (902) 100 007; open daily 0900-2100).

There is also the Patronato Municipal de Turismo, Mayor 69 (tel: (91) 588 2900; open Mon-Thur 0800-1500 and 1600-1800, Fri 0800-1500).

Passes
The Paseo del Arte (Art Walk) ticket allows entry to the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofía museums – valid for one trip to each gallery within a year of the first visit. The pass costs ¬8, is valid for one year, and is available for purchase at any of these three galleries.

The Madrid Card, valid for one, two or three days and costing between ¬28 and ¬55, gives visitors to free admission to 40 major museums, use of public transport, Madrid Vision bus tour (see Tours of the City), a guided walking tour (Saturday), as well as discounts in selected shops, restaurants, theatres and more. The cards can be purchased from main tourist offices or online (website: www.madridcard.com).

Key Attractions

Museo del Prado (Prado Museum)
The Prado Museum (founded in 1819) is undergoing an extensive programme of renovation, to reclaim its position among Europe’s greatest galleries. Within its 4,000-strong collection of 16th- to early 19th-century paintings, are masterpieces by Fra Angelico, Botticelli, Bosch (El Bosco), Titian, Rembrandt and Velázquez, as well as evidence of the astonishing development of Goya – from his sun-soaked early paintings of dances and festivities to the grim madness of his black period.

Paseo del Prado s/n
Tel: (91) 330 28 00. Fax: (91) 330 28 56.
Website: http://museoprado.mcu.es
Transport: Metro Atocha or Banco de España; bus 9, 10, 14, 19, 27, 34, 37 or 45.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900–1900. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: ¬6 (concessions available). Free on Sunday.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum)
Madrid purchased the private collection of Hans-Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza after a nine-and-a-half-year loan, instantly enriching the city’s fund of art treasures. The Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza collection contains over 800 paintings, sculptures, carvings and tapestries, ranging from primitive Flemish works to contemporary pieces. Highlights include works by Fra Angelico, Van Eyck, Dürer, Caravaggio and Rubens.

Paseo del Prado 8
Tel: (91) 369 0151. Fax: (91) 420 39 44.
Website: www.museothyssen.org
Transport: Metro Banco de España; bus 9, 10, 14, 27, 34, 37 or 45.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1900. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: ¬6; ¬10 (permanent and temporary exhibitions combined); concessions available.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Reina Sofia National Art Centre Museum)
Housed in a former hospital built by Francesco Sabatini for Carlos III in the late 18th century but never completed, the museum was designed by the Spanish architect Antonio Fernánez Alba in 1977 and completed in 1990. Officially opened by the King and Queen in 1992, it is dedicated to Spanish 20th-century art, pride of place belonging to Picasso’s disturbing Civil War canvas, Guernica. Dalí, Miró and Juan Gris are among the other artists on show.

Calle Santa Isabel 52
Tel: (914) 675 062. Fax: (91) 467 3163.
Website: http://museoreinasofia.mcu.es
Transport: Metro Atocha; bus 9, 10 14, 27, 34, 37 or 45.
Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sat 1000-2100, Sun 1000-1430. Closed Tues.
Admission: ¬3.01; concessions available; free Saturday 1430-1900 and Sunday.

Palacio Real (Royal Palace)
With the opulence of Versailles in mind, Philip V commissioned Italian architects Giambattista Sacchetti and Francesco Sabatini to build the Royal Palace, following a fire that destroyed the medieval Alcázar in 1764. The present king, Juan Carlos I, resides in the more subdued Zarzuela Palace outside Madrid, so Philip’s 3000-room extravaganza is only used for state functions. The rest of the time, the startling white building in granite and Colmenar stone is open for tours and individual visits. Highlights include the Hall of Halberdiers and Hall of Columns with their splendid frescoes, the Throne Room with its 17th-century sculptures, and the lavish private apartments of Charles II. Just off the courtyard is the Royal Armoury and Pharmacy – among Europe’s oldest. Visits take approximately two hours. There are spectacular views over Madrid from the surrounding gardens.

Plaza de Oriente, Calle Bailén 2-6
Tel: (91) 454 8800. Fax: (91) 542 6947.
Website: www.patrimonionacional.es/preal/preal.htm
Transport: Metro Opera; bus 3, 25, 39 or 148.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 0900-1500 (Apr-Sep); Mon-Sat 0930-1700, Sun 0900-1400 (Oct-Mar); closed during official ceremonies.
Admission: ¬9 (concessions available). Wednesday free for EU nationals.

Plaza Mayor (Main Square)
This beautifully proportioned cobbled square was begun by Philip II and completed by Philip III in 1619 – his statue stands proudly at the centre. Plaza Mayor was both a marketplace and the setting for public spectacles – everything from the ritual condemnation of heretics to bull fights and pageants. Today, tourists outnumber the locals but Plaza Mayor is still as lively as it was in the past, with shops and cafés in the covered arcades.

Plaza Mayor
Transport: Metro Sol; any bus route to Sol.

Further Distractions

Parque del Buen Retiro (Retiro Park)
This lush 118-hectare (292-acre) park in the heart of Madrid was originally the private garden of Philip IV. Visitors can enjoy a stroll along the shady avenues and formal gardens, take a rowing boat out on the lake or picnic in the extensive wooded areas. Madrileños come here in their thousands on Sunday mornings, were entertainment is provided by fortune tellers, pavement artists and circus acts. There is a children’s puppet theatre and numerous refreshment points. Temporary art exhibitions are held in the Palacio de Cristal, Palacio de Velázquez and the Casa de Vacas.

Puerta de Alcalá, Plaza de la Independencia
Transport: Metro Retiro, Atocha or Ibiza; bus 2, 14, 19, 20, 26, 28, 51, 52, 68 or 69.
Opening hours: Daily 0600-2200.
Admission: Free.

Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Convent of the Royal Barefoot Sisters)
Founded by Juana de Austria, the daughter of Charles V, in 1559, as a retreat for noblewomen, the Convento de las Descalzas Reales is still a functioning convent. A superb example of 16th- to 17th-century Baroque architecture, it contains a magpie’s hoard of artistic treasures, including Flemish tapestries, Italian and Flemish paintings and sculptures, religious artefacts and more. The convent is open for guided tours only. Tours are in Spanish, although questions are taken in English.

Plaza de las Descalzas Reales 3
Tel: (91) 454 8800.
Website: www.patrimonionacional.es
Transport: Metro Callao or Sol; bus to Puerta del Sol 3, 5, 15, 20, 51, 52 or 150.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 0900-1400.
Admission: ¬4.01 (concessions available).

Faunia Parque Biológico de Madrid (Environmental Park)
The theme of this new, attractively landscaped theme park is bio-diversity. Each of the 10 pavilions has been specially designed to recreate a different natural environment, with the aim of demonstrating how life (animal life in particular) has learned to adapt to a variety of ecosystems. Thanks to the latest high-tech wizardry, visitors can ‘experience’ a tropical storm, take a stroll through the rain forest, visit the polar regions with temperatures of - 5ºC, or watch rivers of molten lava flowing 1,000m (3,281ft) beneath the earth’s surface.

Avenida de las Comunidades 28
Tel: (91) 301 6210. Fax: (91) 301 6229.
Website: www.faunia.es
Transport: Metro Valdebernardo or Cercanías Vicálvaro; bus 8, 71, 130.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Mar); daily 1000-2000 (1 Apr-Jun); daily 1000-2200 (Jul-16 Sep); daily 1000-1800 (17 Sep-30 Sep); Wed-Sun 1000-1800 (Oct-Feb).
Admission: ¬17.50 (concessions available).

Faro de Moncloa (Light of Moncloa)
The Faro de Moncloa observation tower, situated in the university district, is open to the public, offering visitors panoramic views of Madrid from the flying-saucer-shaped viewing deck, 92m (302ft) high. The tower was designed by architect Salvador Arroyo, in 1992, to monitor traffic congestion.

Avenida de los Reyes Católicos/Plaza del Arco de la Victoria
Tel: (91) 544 8104.
Transport: Metro Moncloa; bus 1, 16, 44, 46, 61, 82, 83, 132, 133 or C.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1400 and 1700-2100 (Jun-Aug), Tues-Fri 1000-1400 and 1700-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-1800 (Sep-May).
Admission: ¬1 (concessions available).

Parque Juan Carlos I
This modern and vast green space (Madrid’s biggest park) holds within it the recinto ferial, where most of Madrid’s exhibitions take place. It also holds the largest collection of macro-sculptures in Spain. People come here to walk, ride their bicycles, fly kites and fish. There is even an enclosure to exercise dogs.

Campo de las Naciones, glorieta de Don Juan de Borbon s/n
Tel: (91) 721 0078.
Website: www.camponaciones.com
Transport: Metro Campo de las Naciones
Opening hours: 0900-nightime
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Patronato Municipal de Turismo (tel: (91) 588 2900; website: www.descubremadrid.com) organises a number of 90-minute walking tours (in English), costing between ¬3-6 each (concessions are available). Two of the more popular tours are ‘Hapsburg Madrid’, including the Royal Palace, major churches and monasteries and taking place on Saturday at 1000 (May-Sep) and ‘Legends of Old Madrid’, an informative and entertaining introduction to the city (summer only). Both depart from the Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Plaza Mayor. Other organized walks by the Patronato Municipal de Turismo include ‘Literary Madrid’ and ‘La casa de la Villa’.

Bus Tours
Madrid Vision (tel: (91) 779 1888 or 541 6321; fax: (91) 383 0766; website: www.madridvision.es) bus tours depart daily from Puerta del Sol, and run every 10 to 25 minutes, depending on the season, 1000-2100 (summer) and 1000-1900 (winter). There is a choice of three routes – ‘Historic Madrid’ (including the main sights of the Hapsburg and Bourbon city), ‘Modern Madrid’ (including the Paseo de la Castellana and Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, Real Madrid’s football ground) and ‘Monumental Madrid’ (exploring the Gran Via). Cassettes with English commentary are provided on the tour, which runs for approximately 75 minutes, except route 3, which lasts for about 40 minutes. The hop-on-hop-off trip costs ¬13 for one day or ¬17 for two days (concessions are available) depending on the option chosen.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: This monastery lies just 50km (31 miles) northwest of Madrid, in the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. The extraordinary rectangular edifice with four spired towers was built by Philip II, as a memorial to his father, Charles V, and is a combination of monastery, church and palace. It contains numerous artistic treasures, an austere 17th-century church and a beautifully decorated library with vaulted, painted ceiling.

Trains depart from Charmartín Station to El Escorial, from where a two-minute bus trip leads to the monastery. Buses also leave from outside Madrid’s metro Moncloa, going directly to El Escorial monastery. The road route is along the NVI motorway – turning off on the A6 at 50km (31 miles). The monastery is open Tuesday to Sunday 1000–1700. Admission costs ¬3.01. Information is available from the Tourist Office, Calle Grimaldi 2 (tel: (91) 890 5313), and the Cultural Centre, Calle Floridablanca 10 (tel: (91) 542 0059).

For a Whole Day

Toledo: Often described as the ‘soul of Spain’, Toledo lies 70km (43 miles) south of Madrid and is easily reached by bus (from Estación Sur de Autobuses), car (along the N401) or train (regular departures from Atocha Station). The capital of Visigoth Spain (AD 567–711), Toledo is closely associated with the Cretan-born painter, El Greco, who lived and worked here from 1577 until his death in 1614. Regarded as the first great genius of the Spanish School, some of his most famous paintings are on show here, including El Espolio (Christ Stripped of His Garments) in the Cathedral and The Burial of Count Orgaz in the medieval church of Santo Tomé.

The hilltop city has changed little since medieval times and enjoys a magnificent setting atop the Tagus Gorge. Visitors should look out for the Moorish gate, Puerta de Bisagrai, the Sinagoga del Tránsito, built in the 1360s and now a museum to Sephardic culture and the Jewish Diaspora of the Spanish Jews, the cathedral and the magnificent Renaissance hospital of Santa Cruz, now a museum. The Tourist Office, Puerta de Bisagra (tel: (92) 522 0843) can provide further information.

Segovia: North of the Sierra de Guadarrama, 90Km (55 miles) north of Madrid, easily reached by train (there are regular departures from Chamartin Station and Atocha Station), by bus (from Estacion Sur de Autobuses), or by road (along the A6 and the AP61), lies Segovia. Once an important Roman city, evidence of its spledour is the magnificent 2,000-year Augustan aqueduct which remains intact to this day. The Alcazar (dating back to the 15th century) was originally a Moorish castle and later the residence of the Catholic Kings. Along with the aqueduct, it is the most distinctive landsite. Other jewels include the cathedral (16th century and the churches of San Esteban (classic Romanesque architecture) and San Martin. The historical part of Segovia is quite small and everything is within walking distance. Patronato Provincial de Turismo de Segovia, Plaza Mayor 6 (tel: (921) 466 070; fax: (921) 460 492, website: www.segoviaturismo.es; opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1500) can provide further information.

Sport

Nothing has as much power to lift Madrileños to the height of joy or drag them into deep depression as sport does – victories and tragedies are passionately recounted in the sports dailies, Marca and As. Football (fútbol) is the major obsession. Madrid has two vast stadiums that fill up on Saturday and Sunday evenings during the September-May season. Atlético Madrid (website: www.clubatleticodemadrid.com), now promoted to the first division, plays at Estadio Vicente Calderón, Paseo Virgen del Puerto 67 (tel: (91) 366 4707), while the European champions, Real Madrid (website: www.realmadrid.com), play at Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, Calle Concha Espina Paseo de la Castellana (tel: (91) 398 4300 or 902 271 707). Another important sporting venue is the top-class Estadio de la Comunidad de Madrid, ‘La Peineta’, Avenida de Arcentales (tel: (91) 720 2400), one of the proposed venues for the 2012 Olympics, should the games be awarded to the city.

Basketball (baloncesto) is second only to football in the hearts of Madrileños. The season runs from September to May, with April marking the climax. Madrid has two top teams – Estudiantes (website: www.clubestudiantes.com) and Real Madrid (website: www.realmadrid.com). The venue for the former is Palacio Vistalegre, Paseo Vista Alegre (tel: (91) 422 0708), and for the latter, Pabellón Raimundo Saporta, Paseo de la Castellana 259 (tel: (93) 398 4300).

The enthusiasm for sport does not stop at simply watching and cheering; many Madrileños partake in the annual Maratón Popular de Madrid (tel: (91) 366 9701), on the last Sunday in April, finishing at Retiro Park/Plaza de Cibeles. Another big event is September’s La Vuelta de España, the Spanish answer to the Tour de France, a cycle race that whisks its way around Spain before reaching Madrid, where five laps of the Castellana single out the winner.

Tickets to most sporting events are available either from the separate venues or from Localidades Galicia, Plaza del Carmen (tel: (91) 531 2732 or 5319 131; website: www.eol.es/lgalicia).

Bullfighting: The bloodthirsty sport of bullfighting takes place at the Madrid bullring, Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas, Calle de Alcalá 237 (Tel: (91) 356 2200; website: www.las-ventas.com). There is a whole range of prices, depending on what type of bullfight is on (with horses or without), which toreros are featuring, but most importantly whether your seat in the sun or in the shade, with top prices for the shade. The row is also very important, not too near the front, not too high up, typical prices range from ¬1.85 to ¬111. Another bullring is in the Plaza Cubierta de Vista Alegre, Vista Alegre (tel: (914) 220 780).

Fitness Centres: Most gyms (gymnasios) are members only, however, many hotels have their own gyms or agreements with private health clubs. Madrid has some 45 city-run polideportivos (sports centres) offering wide-ranging facilities, including gyms, swimming pools and tennis courts. Polideportivo Municipal Chamartín, Plaza de Perú (tel: (91) 350 1223), is one of these.

Golf: Golf clubs tend to be expensive. Golf Olivar de la Hinojosa, Avenida de Dublin, on the metro Campo de las Naciones (tel: (91) 721 1889), charges approximately ¬17 for nine holes and ¬41.50 for 18 holes. Membership is not required and beginners and seasoned golfers are welcome. Facilities include tennis courts.

Swimming: Open-air swimming pools (piscinas) are a necessity in Madrid’s summer heat, with the season running from the beginning of June to mid-September. The rooftop pool in the Hotel Emperador, Calle Gran Vía 53 (tel: (91) 547 2800), offers spectacular views over the city and is open to non-residents for ¬25 Monday to Friday or ¬35 at the weekend. One of the best outdoor municipal pools is Instalación Deportiva del Canal de Isabel II, Avenida Islas Filipinas 54 (tel: (91) 533 1791), near metro Canal – open from 1100-2000, with admission costing ¬3. Information on Madrid’s other public swimming pools is available from Instituto Municipal de Deportes – IMD (tel: (91) 540 3939).

Tennis: Madrid has many tennis clubs but most are private. Many polideportivos (see Fitness Centres above) have tennis courts that are open to non-members. A central polideportivos is Instalacion Deportivo del Canal Isabel II, Avenida Islas Filipinas 54 (tel: (91) 533 1791). The standard fee per hour is ¬4.

Shopping

Madrid’s shops are generally open from 0930/1000 to 1330/1400 and 1630/1700 to 2030/2100, with major stores open throughout the lunch hours. The most convenient area for tourists is around Calle de Preciados, between Sol and Gran Vía, home to the El Corte Inglés department store, high-street names like Zara, Gran Vía 32, and Casa Jiménez, Calle de Preciados 42, famed throughout Spain for its lace and embroidered shawls (mantones and mantillas). The smartest shopping district is Salamanca northeast of the centre, around Calle Serrano. Top designer names like Chanel, Versace, Hermès and Hugo Boss, including the fluid fabrics and elegant cuts of Spanish designer Adolfo Domínguez, are located on Calle Ortega y Gasset. Head for Calle Serrano for Purificación García, Roberto Verino, Ermenegildo Zegna and Yves Saint Laurent. Another trendy area is Chueca, especially Calles Almirante and Conde de Xiquena, while the Mecca for youth fashions is Calle Fuencarral. Bargains can be found during the sales, which take place in January and July.

The main areas for antiques are Salamanca and the arcades on Calle Ribera de Curtidores – Nuevas Galerías, at number 12, and Galerías Piquer, at number 29. Bargain hunters should make for the Rastro, Madrid’s famous flea market, also located around Ribera de Curtidores. The market is open on Sunday mornings (closing at 1400). Shoppers should beware of pickpockets in this area.

More unusual shops include: Mesquida, Calle Mayor 22, for religious and devotional objects, including crib pieces; the Spanish guitar specialist, Manuel Gonzales Contreras, with the store at Calle de la Paz 8, and the workshop at Calle General Margallo 10; El Flamenco Vive, Calle Conde de Lemos 7, which sells sheet music, videos and CDs as well as colourful costumes and accessories; and Seseña, Calle Cruz 23, makers of traditional Spanish capes.

Serious shoppers might opt for the Madrid Shopping Tour (tel: (91) 316 0657; website: www.madridshoppingtour.com). For ¬25 visitors are taken by minibus on a tour of Salamanca, Las Rozas shopping centre and downtown Madrid. Advantages include special discounts and guides and lunch is included in the price. Tours depart from Plaza de Neptuno, Tuesday to Thursday at 1000.

VAT (IVA) of 16% is charged on most goods in Spain. It is possible for visitors from outside the EU to claim a tax refund from many central shops – shoppers should look for the Global Refund Tax Free Shopping stickers in windows and ask for Tax Free Cheques and keep with receipts to be presented at airport customs upon departure. Further information is available from Global Refund (tel: (900) 435 482 or (91) 729 4380; fax: (91) 729 1299; e-mail: taxfree@es.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com).

Culture

Madrid has had its fair share of cultural icons – Surrealist genius Salvador Dalí lived in the city as a student, as did filmmaker Luis Buñuel and poet and dramatist Federico García Lorca. American writer Ernest Hemingway was a war correspondent in Madrid during the Civil War and a regular visitor thereafter. Madrid has its own distinctive dancing style (chotis), seen to best effect during the San Isidro festival and light opera (zarzuela). The city also boasts an international opera house, as well as numerous cinemas and theatres catering for all tastes.

Ticket prices for cultural events vary from around ¬5-¬50. While most hotels are happy to book tickets for guests, they will charge for the service. It is cheaper for visitors to book directly at the box offices, not all of which accept credit cards. Keen theatregoers can also make advance bookings at savings banks – for example, Servicio de Entradas Punto Com (tel: (902) 488 488). Tickets for sold-out performances are available for purchase (at a premium) at Localidades Galicia, Plaza del Carmen 10 (tel: (91) 531 2732). Tickets for performances at the state-owned theatres (the Comedia, Teatro de la Zarzuela, Auditoria Nacional and Maria Guerrero) are available from the box offices at each of the four venues.

The English-language monthly publication In Madrid, and the Spanish weekly Guía de Ocio (website: www.guiadelocio.com/english) print listings on cultural events in and around the city.

Music: Madrid’s opera house, the Teatro Real, Plaza de Oriente (tel: (91) 516 0660; website: www.teatro-real.com), is one of the most modern opera houses in Europe. The Teatro de la Zarzuela, Calle de Jovellanos 4 (tel: (91) 524 5400; website: http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es), is the major venue for zarzuela – a genre loosely comparable to Viennese operetta, which encapsulates the idealised castizo (authenticity) of working class Madrid. The zarzuela season runs from June to September. During summer, outdoor performances take place at La Corrala, Calle del Meson de Paredes 65 or at the Jardines de Sabatini, next to the Palacio Real. Classical concerts, including performances by the prestigious Coro y Orquesta Sinfonica de Madrid, are held at the Auditorio Nacional de Música, Avenida Príncipe deVergara 146 (tel: (91) 337 0100). At Sunday lunchtime, during the summer, concerts are held at the bandstand in Retiro Park.

Theatre: Madrid’s dramatic tradition can be traced back to the classical playwrights of Spain’s Golden Age – Lope de Vega (1562-1635), Tirso de Molina (1584-1648) and Calderón de la Barca (1600-81). The season runs from September to June – in summer there are open-air performances, sponsored by the Veranos de la Villa festival (see Special Events). The Compañia Nacional de Teatro Clásico (website: http://teatroclasico.mcu.es) is based in the Teatro de la Comedia, Calle Príncipe 14 (tel: (91) 521 4931), temporarily at Pavón Embajadores 9 (tel: (91) 528 2819). Twentieth-century drama, as well as Spanish classics are also performed at the impressive Teatro Español, Calle Príncipe 25 (tel: (91) 360 1480), which occupies the site of a theatre dating back to 1583. Since opening in 1995, the Teatro La Abadía, Calle Fernández de los Ríos 42 (tel: (91) 448 1181), has met with great acclaim for its superb performances of international classics. A good introduction to alternative drama is provided by the Triángulo, Calle Zurita 20 (tel: (91) 530 6891), which also hosts English productions by the ACT (American and Classical Theatre) and the Madrid Players (website: www.madridplayers.org). Most theatres are closed on Monday.

Dance: The Teatro Real, Plaza de Oriente (tel: (91) 516 0660; website: www.teatro-real.com), and Teatro de la Zarzuela, Calle de Jovellanos 4 (tel: (91) 524 5400), juggle Spanish and international dance, along with their commitment to music and opera. Other venues include the Centro Cultural de la Villa, Jardines del Descubrimiento, Plaza de Colón (tel: (91) 480 0300), which regularly hosts seasons by visiting companies, and the modern Teatro de Madrid, Avenida de la Illustración (tel: (91) 730 1750). Ballet Nacional de España (website: http://balletnacional.mcu.es) performs Spanish dance to full houses at the Teatro Albéniz, Calle de la Paz 11 (tel: (91) 531 8311), during the Festival de Otoño (Autumn Festival). Choreographer Nacho Duato has breathed new life into the Compañia Nacional de Danza (tel: (91) 354 5053; website: http://cndanza.mcu.es), which tours widely – brief appearances in Madrid’s principal venue, the Teatro Real, are hotly anticipated. Classical ballet is performed at the Teatro de Madrid and Albéniz by Victor Ullate’s Ballet de la Comunidad de Madrid.

Flamenco dance has developed in the last 20 years, from an outmoded genre to a living passion. Traditional flamenco vies with nuevo flamenco (new flamenco) in numerous venues throughout the city. Madrid’s talented flamenco dancers and musicians perform at Teatro Albéniz, during the Festival Flamenco Cajamadrid, in May. Flamenco can be seen at the following addresses: Sala Rociera Al-Andalus, c/ Capital Haya 19, Tetuan (tel: (91) 556 1439), Tablao Flamenco Arco de Cuchilleros, c/ Cuchilleros 7, Sol (tel: (91) 429 5675) and Sala Rociera Almonte, c/ Juan Bravo, Salamanca (tel: (91) 563 2504).

Film: International stars like Antonio Banderas and Penelope Cruz made their reputations with Spain’s leading director, Pedro Almodóvar, who first claimed the world’s attention with Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown (1988). Although Almodóvar is not a son of the city, he moved to Madrid when he was 16, where he studied cinematic art and made his now highly acclaimed films. His very first movie, Pepi, Luci, Bom and Other Girls on the Heap (1980) was set and filmed in Madrid. All About My Mother (1999) won Almodóvar the Best Director award at the 1999 Cannes Film Festival and Best Foreign Language Film at the 2000 Oscars. Talk to Her, released in 2002, has won numerous international awards, including a Golden Globe, and his latest movie, Bad Education (2004) was extremely well received too.

Madrileños are great filmgoers, especially on Sunday nights. Prior booking is not the norm, so queues are long. The most popular performances start at around 2200 and earlier screenings are less busy. Reduced tickets are available on Wednesday (día del espectador). Cinemas cluster around the Gran Vía, notably the vast Gran Vía Cinesa, Calle Gran Via 41 (tel: (902) 333 231), with seating under sparkling chandeliers, for 1,000 spectators. English-language screenings are marked ‘VO’ (versión original) in listings and local papers. The most popular venue is Yelmo Cineplex Ideal, Calle Doctor Cortezo 6 (tel: (902) 220 922). Arthouse cinema is on show at the Filmoteca Nacional, Calle Santa Isabel 3 (tel: (91) 369 11 25).

Cultural Events: Each season brings a wave of festivities and parades, where religion, tradition or just sheer energy provides the impetus. Perhaps the most intriguing festival is Carnaval (Carnival), accompanying the traditional masked ball, Entierro de la Sardina (Burial of the Sardine), the week before Lent (March/April). In May, San Isidro is held in commemoration of Madrid’s patron saint, with open-air dance performances, theatre productions, zarzuela, pop and rock concerts and sports competitions. Summer (July to August) sees in Veranos de la Villa (Summer in the City), a season of theatre, dance, ballet, flamenco and concerts (pop and classical) featuring native and international performers. Autumn (October to November) in Madrid is just as lively, with Festival de Ontoño (Autumn Festival), a host of cultural events (film, concerts and theatre), including a number of premiers in English and Spanish.

Literary Notes: Madrid has drawn its share of literary talent. The great novelist Cervantes, author of the classic 17th-century novel Don Quixote de la Mancha (1605), is buried in Calle de Lope de Vega – named in honour of the great lyric poet of Spain’s Golden Age of theatre. (By a strange twist of fate, Lope de Vega’s house is located in Calle de Cervantes.). Madrid was also home to poet-dramatist Federico García Lorca. The literati would huddle together in the barrio literario in Old Madrid and drink together in the now famous Café Gijón (see Restaurants). Hemingway was to join the literary crowd as a reporter in Madrid during the Civil War. His ode to bullfighting, Death in the Afternoon, was published in 1932 and For Whom the Bell Tolls was published in 1940. The late 20th century has brought its own talent, including the 1989 Nobel Prize winner, Camilo José Cela, who died in 2002, and feminist writers Ana María Matute and Adelaida Garcia Morales.

Nightlife

Madrileños tend to make not one plan for the evening but three or four. While the busiest nights are Friday and Saturday (with Thursday a close runner-up), the locals go out every night and miraculously manage to work or study during the day. Perhaps the secret lies in the tradition of consuming tapas – snacks of olives, anchovies, chorizo (sausages), gambas (deep-fried shrimp) and local specialities like orejas (pig’s ears), callos (tripe), mollejas (sweetbreads), snails in hot sauce and bull’s testicles. After a long night on the town, it is customary to breakfast on thick hot chocolate and sweet fried churros (dough).

Nightlife centres on three major districts – Chueca (Madrid’s gay village, which specialises in trendy restaurants), Calle Huertas (traditional Spanish music, jazz clubs and bars) and Malasaña (mainly bars and clubs frequented by a young crowd). All bars and clubs are licensed but hours are flexible. It can be hard to tell bars and clubs apart, since bars often have a dancefloor and not all clubs charge for entry. Where they do, ¬5–10 is the standard admission fee, which usually includes consumición (first drink). The legal drinking age in Madrid is 18 and the price of tipple ranges from ¬1.50 for a small beer or glass of wine to ¬4.50 for spirits and cocktails. It is customary to pay on leaving and certainly worth noting that few bars accept credit cards. Tipping is discretionary (¬1 will suffice).

Many venues close during the month of August. There are several listings magazines. The weekly Guía del Ocio (website: www.guiadelocio.com/english), published in Spanish only and available from kiosks for ¬1, has information on concerts, theatre, film and other entertainment options. It also provides restaurant listings. The monthly What’s On is published in English and Spanish and is less detailed but good on opening times and contact details. In Madrid is a monthly English-language newspaper, available from tourist offices, Irish bars or Barajas airport. It is hot on the latest club news, DJs, bars and other aspects of night-time entertainment, and it is free.

Bars: Madrid’s bars range from dark, wood-panelled taverns to the fabulous Viva Madrid, Calle Manuel Fernández y Gonzáles 7, with its painted tiles of Madrid scenes from the early 1900s. The Garamond, Calle de Claudio Coello 10, has a castle-like interior and suits a smart older crowd. Chicote, Grand Vía 12, is Madrid’s most famous cocktail bar and has preserved its 1930s interior – it is easy to imagine American novelist Ernest Hemingway relaxing here during the Civil War. A former brothel run by gypsies, with a tiled interior depicting Velázquez’s The Drunkards, Los Gabrieles, Calle Echegaray 17, is now a respectable bar for a young chic clientele. Tapas bars cluster around Plaza de Santa Ana near Sol, Plaza de Santa Bárbara in Calasaña and Cava Baja and Calle de Cuchilleros, behind Plaza Mayor. One of the best is Taberna los Austrias, Calle Nuncio 17, situated near metro La Latina. As dawn breaks, revellers head for Chocolatería San Ginés, Pasadizo de San Ginés 11, a Mecca for those in search of hot chocolate and churros.

Casinos: Casino Gran Madrid, Autovía A6, Km 29 exit from Madrid, Carretera de la Coruna, (tel: 900 900 810; website: www.casinogranmadrid.es), is the only officially recognised casino in the area and is located outside the city, near Torrelodones – a free bus service leaves from Plaza Espana 6. The dress code is formal and ties must be worn, the age limit is 21 and passports are required for entry.

Clubs: Most tourists head for the clubs around Sol and Gran Vía, although true hedonists might want to try out some of the locals’ haunts instead. A typical night might begin around 2300 with the exotic elite at Serrano 41, Calle Serrano 41, Independencia, Puerta de Alcalá, or the tango-friendly Sportsman, Calle Alcalá 65, before moving on to Fortuny, Calle Fortuney 23, the laid-back Café del Foro, Calle San Andres 38, or super-trendy Mármara, Calle Padre Damián, next to Hotel Eurobuilding. There are no admission charges here, although chic dress is recommended. The energetic dance to techno at Pachá, Calle Barceló 11. Gabana 1800, Calle de Velázquez 6, is another popular venue for stylish 20- and 30-somethings – if the bouncer allows admission.

Live Music: Madrid offers an eclectic choice of flamenco, salsa, jazz, rock, world music and cantautores – Spanish singer-songwriters. The Café de la Palma, Calle la Palma 62 (website: www.cafelapalma.com), is the venue of the moment for cantautores, as well as flamenco and Cuban music acts. For more Latino sounds, fans should head for La Negra Tomasa, Calle Cádiz 9, for live music nightly from 2100. Moby Dick, Avenida de Brasil 5 (website: www.mobydickclub.com) in the Castellana district, plays live pop and rock on weekdays and hosts DJs (reggae and rap) at weekends. The clientele is a charming mixture of foreigners and locals. At Café Populart, Calle Huertas 22 (website: www.populart.es) punters can experience everything from live jazz to swing, salsa, blues, gospel, African and reggae. There are two shows nightly, at 2300 and 0030. The Irish Rover pub, Avenida de Brasil 7, imports Irish, folk and country music. International acts play regularly at the Café Central, Plaza del Angel 10, Madrid’s top jazz venue. Pop stars and the best salsa bands perform at La Riviera, Paseo Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto.

City Statistics

Location: Madrid region, central Spain.
Country dialling code: 34.
Population: 3,093,000 (city).
Ethnic mix: Approximately 90% Spanish, 10% other, with the largest minorities from Ecuador, Colombia and Morocco.
Religion: 86% Roman Catholic, 14% other.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 5ºC (41.5ºF).
Average July temp: 24ºC (75.5ºF).
Annual rainfall: 439mm (17 inches).

Special Events

Reyes Magos (Epiphany), marked by a procession of the ‘the kings’ with commercial floats, Jan, city centre
Carnaval (Carnival), procession, masked ball and cultural events, culminating in the ritual Burial of the Sardine in the church of San Antonio de la Florida, Feb, Plaza Mayor
Semana Santa (Holy Week), solemn religious processions and services, week leading to Easter, throughout the city
Fiesta del 2 de Mayo (Festival of 2 May), marks the day when Madrid rose up against the French in 1808, with films, poetry recitals, concerts and dance, May, various venues
Festival Flamenco Cajamadrid, Flamenco dancing competition, May, Teatro Albéniz, Calle de la Paz 11
San Isidro, commemoration of Madrid’s patron saint with procession to the church of San Isidoro, open-air dance performances, theatre productions, zarzuela, pop and rock concerts and sports competitions, May, Pradera de San Isidoro and various venues
Gay Pride, festival culminates in a parade through the Retiro, Sol and Casa de Campo, last week in Jun, other events in Chueca district
Veranos de la Villa (Summer in the City), cultural events, Jul–Aug, various venues
Festival de Otoño (Autumn Festival), Madrid’s most important annual arts festival, Oct–Nov various venues
Feria de Artesania (Advent Craft Fair), Dec, Paseo de Recoletos
Natividad (Christmas), Christmas and New Year celebrations, Dec, Plaza Mayor
Nochevieja (New Year’s Eve), crowds gather to eat grapes and drink champagne, 31 Dec, Puerta del Sol

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.90
33cl bottle of beer: ¬1
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.40
36-exposure colour film: ¬7.50
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.15
Adult football ticket: ¬20
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬18

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005