World City Guide

Excursions

For a Half Day
Setti Fatma: Set within grassy terraces, the riverside hamlet of Setti Fatma is situated 40 miles (60km) southeast of Marrakech. The village lies at the very end of the winding Ourika valley beyond the reach of most tourist coaches. Setti Fatma itself is merely a mud-brick village, if rather pretty, but the seven waterfalls that tumble and tear through the craggy rocks above it make it a popular location. The first of the falls is quite an easy climb and it is possible to swim here in the icy cold waters of the rock pool or to sunbathe on the rocks. The higher falls are harder work and sturdy shoes and a good head for heights will be required, although there are plenty of guides willing to offer help. The banks of several of the falls are lined with pleasant little cafés and restaurants. The best way to get to Setti Fatma is by grand taxi from the main bus station in Marrakech (journey time – 90 minutes).

For a Whole Day
Essaouira: Located 180km (112 miles) west of Marrakech, this 18th-century coastal resort offers a welcome escape. A trading and fishing port with a history dating back to the seventh century BC, it was largely rebuilt in the 18th century and modelled on St-Malo in France. With its sandy beach and blue-and-white-painted houses, it has a long association with artists, who are a clearly visible part of life in Essaouira today. A series of forts built along the seafront, a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture, lend a powerful mystique to the town. Orson Welles shot some of his film Othello (1952) on the ramparts, the Skala du Port, here. The cooling Atlantic breeze, the alizee, has made it popular for windsurfing, although the stiff wind chops up the waves frustrating regular surfing. Sunbathing, games of football and jogging along the beach are all popular activities. The tourist office, 10 rue de Caire (tel: (044) 783 532; fax: (044) 473 819; e-mail: info@mogador-essaouira.com; website: www.mogador-essaouira.com ), can provide further information.

The quickest way of getting to Essaouira from Marrakech is by grand taxi (journey time – 2 hours), which has the added bonus of possibly witnessing tree-climbing goats en route. ONCF Supratours Express Buses leave Marrakech train station (tel: (044) 447 703), twice daily (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes). Several private buses leave Marrakech’s main bus station daily.