World City Guide

Mini Guide of Marrakech

City Overview

Enchantingly sited at the foot of the snowy High Atlas Mountains, its rose-coloured walls set within lush green gardens, olive groves and palmeraies, Marrakech is one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities.

Its very name conjures up images of magic carpets and snake charmers – and not without reason. After dark, the central square in the medina, Jemaa-el-Fna, comes to life and puts on a show little changed since medieval times. It is a riot of enticing colour, noise and smells, with dancers, fire-eaters, acrobats, snake charmers and fortune-tellers. Rows of trestle tables are set up every evening to serve up barbecued kebabs, boiled snails, mouthwatering tajines and an array of more or less appetising other foodstuffs.

Around this vast open space stretch the shadowy alleyways of the souks; a vast marketplace selling herbs and potions, carpets and candles, jewellery, spices, meat and metalwork. Marrakech has long been an important crossroads and trading centre for the Arabic, Berber, black African and, more recently, European civilisations. Today, it is a unique cultural melting pot, where the foods, wares, museums and gardens are unlike anything found anywhere else in the world.

Founded around 1062 by the Berber Almoravids, Marrakech soon became the capital of an Islamic empire that reached from central Spain to West Africa. The rule of Yousef Ben Tachfine blessed the city with its legendary walls, several mosques, fine gardens and palaces. The Almoravid conquest of southern Spain led to an exchange of culture investing this remote desert enclave with the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Andalucia, something that it has retained a feel for to this day.

The architectural influence of the Almohads was strong. Many of the city’s best-known landmarks, such as the mosques Koutoubia and El Mansour, date from their conquest, as do the vast mud walls that encase the medina. Although the Merinids of the 14th and 15th centuries turned their attentions instead to the city of Fez, ushering Marrakech into an era of provincial dejection, the coming of the Saadians in the early 16th century spelled a remarkable turnaround in Marrakech’s fortunes. Trade was enlivened and the legacy of the magnificent Saadian tombs was left for visitors to enjoy today. However, the long period of Alaouite governance turned the tables against the city once again, as Meknés in northern Morocco became their indulgence. Early 17th-century ruler Moulay Ismail went as far as stripping the gold and marble from Marrakech’s wonderful El Badi Palace in order to lavish his new capital with yet more glamour.

In the early 20th century, the French were relative latecomers to these proceedings but they soon constructed the Art Deco commercial centre of Guéliz to the northwest of the city walls. Perhaps the most significant legacy of this colonial rule is the French language, which is still spoken by all educated Moroccans, although English is fast becoming the second language of the young and of those involved in the tourist industry. Finally, a vast array of pleasure-seekers, ranging from the glamorous to the distinctly insalubrious, left their mark on the city after World War II. Winston Churchill, Yves Saint Laurent and the Rolling Stones rubbed shoulders with American beat writers, hippies and a new breed of curious visitors anxious to see what all the fuss was about.

Despite the European influences, Marrakech is nevertheless an Islamic city and still a male-dominated society, although many women have adopted Western dress and do have jobs and active social lives. Morocco is one of the more liberal Muslim countries and the government is keen to show it as a progressive, Western-leaning, liberal state. The whole gamut of media, curtailed in some Muslim states, is openly on display, from newspapers to satellite TV to the Internet, while the new king, Mohammed VI, is actively promoting the education of women and disadvantaged groups such as the Berbers, the indigenous population of the Atlas Mountains.

With its minimal rainfall, Marrakech is a magical place for a holiday whatever the season. Winter is bright and crisp, while autumn brings delicious fresh produce into the markets. Spring sees the Atlas Mountains covered in flowers, while the city’s red-hot summers can be offset by a day-trip to the sandy coast.

Getting There By Air

Marrakech-Menara International Airport (RAK)
Tel: (044) 447 910 or 447 865 or 448 506. Fax: (044) 449 219.
Website: www.onda.org.ma/onda/autrea/marrakech.asp
The Marrakech-Menara International Airport is located about six kilometres (four miles) southwest of Marrakech. There are few direct international flights to the city as most fly via Casablanca, which is Morocco’s main international hub.

Major airlines: Morocco’s national airline is Royal Air Maroc (tel: (044) 436 205 or (0900) 00800 (national call centre); fax: (044) 446 002; e-mail: callcenter@royalairmaroc.co.ma; website: www.royalairmaroc.com ). It offers scheduled services direct to Marrakech three times a week from London Gatwick, five flights a week from Heathrow via Casablanca and connects Marrakech to all the major Moroccan cities, as well as Paris. Other direct scheduled services are offered by British Airways under its GB Airways subsidiary (London Gatwick) and Air France (Paris).

Approximate flight times to Marrakech: From London is 3 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 8 hours (via Casablanca); from Los Angeles is 14 hours (via Paris or London); from Toronto is 12 hours (via Montreal and Casablanca) and from Sydney is 19 hours (via Bangkok, Rome and Casablanca or various other combinations).

Airport facilities: These include banks, ATMs, a post office, a restaurant and snack bars, duty-free shops, general shops, a medical centre and tourist information. Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz all provide car hire services.

Business facilities: None.

Arrival/departure tax: Dh180 (included in the ticket price).

Transport to the city: Bus 11 is supposed to run to the old Arabic heart of the city, the medina, every half an hour, but services can be unpredictable. Tickets cost Dh10. There are taxiphones in the arrival and departure lounges and taxis can be caught near the bus stop. Taxi fares to the city are about Dh60 (journey time – 15 minutes). It is wise to agree the price before commencing the journey.

Getting There By Water

Morocco’s main port for international passengers is Tangier, about 600km (380 miles) north of Marrakech, on the Mediterranean coast. All ferries dock at the tall ferry terminal building in the heart of the town, which contains a bureau de change and a railway ticket office.

Ferry services: There are up to 20 crossings daily in summer and at least ten per day in winter from Tangier to Algeciras in Spain. The crossing takes about two hours. There are also more limited crossings from Gibraltar, from Tarifa in southern Spain, and from the south of France. Arrival by ferry in Tangier is not for the fainthearted – there are many hustlers here who seek to put visitors in a taxi, a hotel or an antiques shop. Visitors should try to say no to the touts and make their own enquiries about onward travel.

Alternatively, travellers can take a ferry from Algeciras or Tarifa to Cueta, a Spanish enclave on the northern Moroccan coast, about 45 minutes’ sailing time from Spain.

Main operators include Transmediterranea (tel: (039) 935 076; fax: (039) 93 7173; e-mail: correom@trasmediterranea.es; website: www.trasmediterranea.es ) and Comanav (tel: (039) 942 350; fax: (039) 944 022; e-mail: comanav@comanav.co.ma; website: www.comanav.co.ma ).

Transport to the city: There is a railway station, the Gare du Port, within the ferry port at Tangier but the vast majority of services to Marrakech leave from the Gare du Ville, which is a short walk along the waterfront.

From the port at Cueta, it is necessary to take a taxi or bus to the border village of Fnideq to cross into Morocco. From Fnideq, taxi services go to the town of Tetouan, where there are frequent bus and taxi services to Tangier. Fnideq also has its share of hassles and touts, so visitors are advised to be wary as they cross this busy border.

Getting There By Road

Driving in Morocco can be a pleasure, as it has a good network of uncongested roads. However, driving within cities can be much more stressful because of busy traffic and a general disregard for road etiquette.

The official speed limit is 100kph (62mph) outside towns and 40kph (25mph) in urban areas. Driving is on the right. There are frequent road blocks, so drivers should keep their papers accessible. By law, when driving both driver and passengers must wear seat belts (front seat) or face an on-the-spot fine. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. No alcohol level in the blood at all is permitted when driving. Roadside police officers have been well trained to spot drunken driving and will not hesitate to pull cars over. The Moroccan authorities acknowledge most foreign driving licences, but an International Driving Permit is recommended. Further information is available from the Touring Club du Maroc (tel: (044) 279 288).

Emergency breakdown service: AXA Insurance Company (tel: (02) 267 272) offers nationwide breakdown cover for foreign motorists.

Routes to the city: Marrakech is linked to Casablanca by the P7, to Fez by the P24, to Ouarzazate by the P31, and to Agadir by the P10 then P40.

Driving times to Marrakech: From Casablanca – 3 hours; Agadir – 3 hours and 30 minutes; Fez – 7 hours.

Coach services: All urban and intercity routes leave from Marrakech’s central bus station, Place El Mouarabitène (tel: (044) 433 933), just outside Bab Doukkala on the northwestern edge of the old city. Eurolines (tel: +44 (0870) 580 8080, in the UK; website: www.eurolines.co.uk ) runs a service from London to Marrakech every Friday. It takes 60 hours and costs £102 single. Eurolines also runs services from Marrakech all over Europe with many routes involving a change of coach in Paris.

Services between Morocco’s major cities and towns are run by the CTM coach company (tel: (044) 448 328; website: www.ctm.co.ma ), as well as by other private operators. CTM are the most reliable and run to strict schedules. The national train company, ONCF (tel: (07) 776 520; e-mail: voyages@oncf.ma; website: www.oncf.org.ma ), operates express bus services from the train station at Avenue Hassan II between Marrakech and Essaouira, Agadir and Laayoune.

Bus tickets can be purchased in advance from the main bus station. It is no cheaper but it will guarantee a seat, which is particularly advisable on routes that run a limited daily service.

Getting There By Rail

Although services are limited, the Moroccan state railway, ONCF (tel: (07) 776 520; e-mail: voyages@oncf.ma; website: www.oncf.org.ma ) is reliable, cheap and comfortable, and by far the best option for travelling between Morocco’s major cities. Marrakech’s railway station (tel: (044) 447 703), a handsome, colonial-era building, is located on Avenue Hassan II at the western edge of Guéliz.

Rail services: The Moroccan rail system runs along two branches: from Casablanca on the west coast to Oujda in the northeast, and from Tangier in the north to Marrakech. There are two classes of seats – first and second. First class usually ensures an air-conditioned carriage, although second-class travel is quite comfortable for most journeys. All tickets can be booked in advance. Inter-rail cards (for those under 26 years of age) can be used in Morocco.

The most used direct services to Marrakech are from Casablanca (approximate journey time – 3 hours), Rabat (4 hours), Fez (7 hours 30 minutes) and the direct overnight service from Tangier (9 hours), which has sleeping carriages.

Transport to the city: The station is about 1.5km (one mile) west of the tourist office, off Avenue Hassan II. Bus 3 or 14 run from the station through Guéliz to Jemaa-el-Fna. Petit taxis will take visitors to Guéliz or Jemaa-el-Fna for around Dh10.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The national coach company CTM (tel: (044) 448 328; website: www.ctm.co.ma ) is the main provider of urban bus services within Marrakech. All bus serivces leave from Marrakech’s central bus station, Place El Mouarabitène, just outside Bab Doukkala on the northwestern edge of the old city. There are also many private lines that operate throughout the city from the central bus station. CTM services are reliable and operate from early morning until late at night (around 0500–2200), with night buses running on the more popular routes. However, buses can be very crowded at peak hours (0800–0900 and 1630–1800). Single fares are paid to the driver and cost no more than Dh3 for journeys within the city. Bus 1 plies the route between Guéliz and Jemaa-el-Fna.

Grand Taxis, Petit Taxis and Calèches
Quicker than the buses, grand taxis are old Mercedes cars that carry up to six people for a fixed fare. Generally keeping to specific routes, the taxis leave, when full, from the bus station, from Jemaa-el-Fna and from the Post Office in Guéliz. Most routes within the city cost around Dh5.

Petit taxis are basically standard taxis – small hatchback cars, normally blue Fiat Unos, which can be hailed around the city. Prices are best agreed before the journey is embarked on. The average price for trips within the city is around Dh10–15, rising to Dh15–20 at night. It is not customary to tip, although foreign visitors often do. Petit taxis are ubiquitous on Marrakech’s streets so there should be no need to telephone one. Hotels can arrange pick-ups if necessary.

In addition, the calèche is a horse-drawn carriage carrying up to five people. Again, prices should be agreed in advance. For five people this should not cost much more than a petit taxi. Calèches line up in the garden square between the Koutoubia Mosque and Jemaa-el-Fna, El Badi Palace and the more expensive hotels. For specified trips, grand taxis and calèches are required by law to display prices. All three can be hired for tours of the city. Grand taxis and petit taxis can also be hired for day trips outside the city.

Limousines
Limousines can be hired from Travel Link, 19 Rue Mauritania, Guéliz (tel: (044) 448 797; fax: (044) 448 839). Rates are Dh2000–2800 (dependent on the type of limo) for an eight-hour tour for two people.

Driving in the City
Many of the roads in the Marrakech medina are simply too narrow for cars and only small cars can negotiate the rest. It is advisable to park the car and use taxis while in the city. Furthermore, accident rates are very high, especially around the medina, where people and cyclists are apt to pull out suddenly in front of the traffic. After dark, the dangers increase since it is legal to drive cars and ride bicycles without lights at up to 20kph (12mph). Parking in Guéliz can be found at any of the big hotels or off the Avenue Mohammed V. In the medina, security-patrolled spaces are available at Jemaa-el-Fna outside the Foucauld Hôtel and in the car park beside the CTM Hôtel.

Car Hire
The major car hire companies can almost all be found at the airport and in Guéliz in the area around Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, which links Avenue Mohammed V with Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni. These include: Avis, 137 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (044) 433 727 or 3169 (airport office); website: www.avis.com ); Budget, Boulevard Zerktouni (tel: (044) 431 180 or 438 875 (airport office) or 440 720 (La Mamounia Hotel office); website: www.budgetrentacar.com ), Europcar, 63 Boulevard Zerktouni (tel: (044) 431 228; website: www.europcar.com ); and Hertz, 154 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (044) 431 394 or 447 230 (airport office); fax: (044) 439 983; website: www.hertz.com ).

Hire fees are subject to 20% government tax; visitors should make sure that this has been added to the agreed price. Rates start at around Dh600 per day for a four-door saloon. Although smaller local companies can undercut this by up to a half, this is often reflected in the condition of the cars. However, one more reputable outfit is Concorde Cars, 154 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (044) 439 973). Drivers must be over 21 years of age to hire a car and be in possession of a full national driving licence. Most European driving licenses are acknowledged in Morocco, however, an International Driving Permit is recommended. Third-party insurance is automatically included when renting a car.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
A popular alternative to the car is the bicycle or moped. Both can be rented from Hassan Location, 51 Rue de la Recette (tel: (044) 442 493), and Marrakech Motos, 31 Route de Casablanca (tel: (044) 448 359). Moped hire comes in at around Dh200 per day. For bicycles, prices start at around Dh60 per day or Dh10 per hour. Bicycle traffic travels at quite a sedate speed in Marrakech but it is sensible to test the brakes and tyres before hiring a bike. Bicycles can also be hired from Hotel Central Palace, 59 Derb Sidi Bouloukat (tel: (044) 440 235), just off Jemaa-el-Fna, as well as from a number of small operators around Place 16 Novembre in Guéliz.

Business

Business Profile
As the city where southern tribesmen and northern Berber villagers meet and trade, Marrakech is one of Morocco’s major commercial hubs, alongside the ports of Casablanca and Tangier. Since the government embarked on a major programme of economic liberalisation in the early and mid-1990s as a response to a severe recession in the 1980s, Marrakech has become more receptive to foreign investment and trade. The main industrial enterprises around Marrakech are flour-mills, milk-processing plants, breweries, canning factories and cement production plants. Mining is central to Moroccan industry, producing the lion’s share of foreign exchange earnings. Zinc mines around Marrakech and the world’s largest phosphate deposits in the region south of the city are key to keeping the economy on track.

In the late 1990s, foreign investment in Morocco, led mainly by France, followed by Spain, Britain, Italy then Germany, more than doubled thanks to the privatisation of the country’s oil industry and the opening up of the banking sector. The countries that provide Morocco with its burgeoning imports mirror the nations that it exports to.

Shell, Mobil, Total and Elf are some of the leading foreign investors in Morocco and look likely to be joined by companies in other sectors as Morocco has one of the best communications infrastructures in Africa. The USA and South Africa are also key investors in the oil and mining industries respectively. Marrakech looks set to benefit from this new round of overseas investment, although the city is still dependent on tourism, which contributes around 10% of the city’s GDP.

Marrakech’s premier conference facilities are at the Hotel Golf Palace Palmeraie, a few kilometres outside the city (tel: (044) 301 010; fax: (044) 305 050; website: www.pgp.co.ma ). Nine quality conference suites, many with audiovisual facilities, complement five-star luxuries. Excellent conference services catering for up to 5000 people can be found at the Hôtel Pullman Mansour Eddahbi, Avenue de France, Guéliz (tel: (044) 448 222), and at the Palais des Congrès, Avenue de France, Guéliz (tel: (044) 448 990). Many of the large new hotels around Avenue de la Ménara, such as the Sheraton (tel: (044) 448 988) and the Méridien (tel: (044) 448 772), offer business facilities on a smaller scale.

Unemployment in the city is still quite high: reputable unofficial figures suggest an unemployment rate of around 20% of the adult population, slighter lower than unofficial figures for the rest of the country.

Business Etiquette
Residents of Marrakech have a reputation for warmth and humour, so it is unnecessary to be too formal when doing business in the city. In personal business communication, plain speaking and a willingness to make eye contact are much appreciated. However, over-casualness can be interpreted as rudeness or laziness so businesspeople should maintain a smart appearance, even though suits are not expected in the hot weather. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and, while punctuality is appreciated in Morocco, it is wise to allow some degree of leeway regarding timing.

Negotiations often involve a great deal of bargaining and consultation, partly to build up a trusting relationship between the two parties. A deal may take a while to come about in Morocco but curt attempts to rush the process may scupper the arrangement. Contrary to Western business dealings, which are mostly conducted on a one-to-one level, visitors here should expect to deal with a number of businesspeople connected to the firm. Although many executives speak English, French is the preferred language of commerce in Morocco. The normal business hours are 0830–1200 and 1430–1830 Monday to Friday (0900–1500 Monday to Friday during Ramadan).

The Moroccans are immensely hospitable people but do also expect courtesy from their guests. If invited to a Moroccan’s home, it is customary to take a small gift for the women (such as Western perfume or a traditional food from abroad) and children (such as sweets or toys). Refreshments will always be offered, usually mint tea and it is impolite to refuse. Visitors should expect to be given up to three glasses.

In addition, hands should be washed before all meals and, if food needs to be handled, the right hand only should be used. Visitors should not smoke, eat or drink in public during Ramadan and, at other times of the year, it is sensible to be cautious and guided by the host. It is always wise to refrain from asking for alcohol if it is not readily visible – the rules of hospitality would require the host to provide it and this may be in conflict with his or her religious beliefs.

While Morocco is an Islamic nation, it is very liberal by Middle Eastern standards, so businesswomen should not feel intimidated when working in the country. They are advised, however, to dress conservatively and hemlines should definitely be below the knee.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Any visit to Marrakech will centre on the medina and square of Jemaa-el-Fna, the heart of the city. Many of the attractions are within walking distance of the square, with the rest being just a short taxi ride away. The Koutoubia Mosque is the main place of worship in the city and entry is forbidden to non-Muslims. However, the architecture can be appreciated from the grounds, which are open to everyone. The numerous souks offer the chance to become fully involved in city life, elevating shopping to an attraction in its own right. Whether making purchases or just soaking up the atmosphere, it is impossible not to get swept along with the crowd. The city’s three medina-based museums, each with their own unique style, are well worth a slow meander around. As well as the magnificent El Badi Palace (see below), the sprawling Bahia Palace is a beautiful structure, although only open to the public when not occupied by Morocco’s current royal family.

When Marrakech becomes too intense, havens of tranquillity can be found in the many lush public and private gardens surrounding the city. Most of the main sights are very popular with tourists and suffer the problems associated with crowds, particularly around Jemaa-el-Fna and the souks, where careless tourists can be easy prey for the occasional pickpocket.

Tourist Information
Délègué Règional du Tourisme (ONMT)
Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, Avenue Mohammed V, Guéliz
Tel: (044) 436 239 or 179. Fax: (044) 436 057.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0900–1200 and 1500–1830.

Passes
There are no dedicated tourist passes in Marrakech.

Key Attractions

Jemaa-el-Fna (Place of the Dead)
The great square of Jemaa-el-Fna is the centre of medina life both day and night. By day, it is a market and gathering place with stalls lining half the massive square and selling fresh orange juice, nuts and dried fruit. From lunchtime onwards, there is a scattering of entertainers and sales people but it is at dusk that it really comes into its own. At 1700, a clatter of carts announces the arrival of the food stalls, which cook up every variety of vegetables, fish and meat. By 2100, it is hard to move for the mass of performers of every kind, including snake charmers, singers, musicians, story tellers and acrobats. The healers and fakirs with pots of herbs join them, ready to dispense cures for any ailment imaginable. The crowds are mainly Moroccans; this is not a spectacle just for tourists. It offers a glimpse of Marrakech life that has changed little since medieval times. Visitors should take plenty of loose change, as the performers do expect a couple of Dirhams worth of appreciation in addition to applause. A few of the fairground-type shows let the audience themselves take part for Dh2 or so, while some of the more colourful characters will pose for a photo for around Dh5.

Jemaa-el-Fna is surrounded by cafés and restaurants, perfect places to escape the hustle and bustle by relaxing with a mint tea, coffee or light meal. Café Argana, Café de France and Café Glacier all have roof terraces with wonderful views, although they are slightly more expensive than the rest of Marrakech’s cafés.

End of Triq El Koutoubia, Rue Mouassine, Rue Souk Smarine or Rue Riad Z El Kedim
Transport: All local buses that enter the medina come through Jemaa-el-Fna, including bus 1, 2, 3, 11 or 14.
Opening hours: Mid-morning until late night.

Majorelle Gardens and Museum of Islamic Art
Privately owned and maintained by the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, this botanical garden was created in the 1920s by French artists Jacques and Louis Majorelle. Within the walls, the perfectly manicured gardens, complete with pools, giant cacti, bamboo, coconut and banana trees, are offset by the blue wash that covers the paths, pavilions and garden walls. Only Yves Saint Laurent could get away with painting plant pots and various walls in children’s paintbox colours, but the overall effect is stunning and totally unique. An extremely tranquil place if the bustle of Marrakech becomes too much. The Majorelles’ old studio is now the Museum of Islamic Art.

Entrance in side street off Avenue Yacoub El Mansour
Transport: Bus 4 from Avenue Mouahidine; petit taxi or calèche.
Opening hours: Daily 0800–1200 and 1400–1700 (winter); daily 0800–1200 and 1500–1900 (summer).
Admission: Dh20 (gardens); Dh15 (museum); children and animals are not admitted.

Saadian Tombs
One of the most visited sites in Morocco, the Saadian Tombs were only accessible via the mosque next door so survived in pristine condition until ‘rediscovered’ and opened to the public in 1917. The entrance is signposted down a thin passage surrounded by tourist stalls, a short walk from Jemaa-el-Fna. The enclosed garden inside is overlooked by two separate mausoleums, with over 100 mosaic-decorated graves scattered around. The principal structures of the tombs were built by Sultan Ahmed El Mansour for himself and his family and date from the late 16th century. There are 66 members of the Saadian royal family buried here altogether, along with a number of retainers and some much older graves whose identity has been lost. Within the mausoleum, the rooms are richly decorated, with magnificent domed ceilings, ornate stalactite plasterwork, intricate carving and marble pillars. Visitors should expect long queues unless they visit early to avoid the rush.

Rue de la Kasbah
Opening hours: Wed–Mon 0900–1145 and 1430–1730.
Admission: Dh15.

El Badi Palace
This magnificent ruined palace, whose name means the ‘Incomparable’, was built by the Saadian king, Ahmed Al Mansour, in 1578. It was one of the finest in the world, with 360 rooms sumptuously decorated in marble, gold, onyx, ivory, cedarwood and semi-precious stones, surrounding a vast central courtyard of pools, fountains and sunken gardens. It was the venue for parties of global extravagance. In 1696, however, the Alouite Sultan Moulay Ismael moved the capital to Méknes, stripping the palace of anything valuable and leaving the towering mud walls to decay. The palace retains an unspoilt charm, however, and the nesting storks in its uppermost walls are testament to its serenity. It is used for two weeks every June as the main venue for the National Festival of Popular Arts. In one corner (for an additional Dh10 entrance fee) is the magnificent 12th-century minbar (pulpit) from the Koutoubia Mosque.

Bab Berrima, off Place des Ferblantiers
Opening hours: Daily 0830–1200 and 1430–1830.
Admission: Dh10.

Koutoubia Mosque
From any approach, the first sight of Marrakech is of the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, which dominates the skyline and is a great landmark when sightseeing. Marrakech’s tallest building, it dates from the 12th century and was one of the earliest great monuments that created the classic Moroccan design. Each façade and each arch on the square minaret is different. Originally, it was covered in plaster with each tier decoratively painted, obscuring the intricate carvings of the stonework. Suggestions to restore it have been met with protests, as many believe that restoration will detract from its beauty. The architecture can be admired at close quarters from the vast, if slightly unkempt, surrounding gardens. These also contain the remains of Almoravid Palace and the excavations of an earlier mosque that was demolished because it was not correctly aligned with Mecca.

Avenue Mohammed V
Transport: Bus 1.
Opening hours: Mosque and minaret closed to non-Muslims; gardens always open to all.
Admission: Free (gardens).

The Tanneries
The sights and smells in the Marrakech tanneries, with the leather dyeing workshops and giant pots of colourful dye, make a visit there absolutely unforgettable. Historically, the dyes were made using everything from pigeon guano to pomegranates, from barks to berries, but now most are made using chemical pigments. The process itself and the equipment used, however, have not changed for centuries. Numerous different skins are coloured here, including cow, goat and camel, and then stretched out to dry. The majority of work is crafted by local artisans then sold in the Marrakech souks. There are plenty of unofficial guides near Bab Debbagh willing to take visitors on a 15-minute tour of the tanneries for a tip of around Dh25.

Bab Debbagh (Tannery Gate)
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1800.
Admission: Free (tip of Dh25 for guided tour).

Further Distractions

Menara Gardens
With its backdrop of the Atlas Mountains, it is no surprise that the Menara Gardens are one of the most photographed places in Morocco. It is also a popular place among locals for picnics. The best time to come is late afternoon (or evening if it is light enough) when most of the tourists have left. More a working farm than a garden, the Menara was laid out in the 12th century by the Almohads. Around 30,000 olive trees are set around a magnificent water pool, which is filled with fish. They regularly leap above the surface to the surprise of passing walkers. The well-kept pavilion house, the menzeh, was built much later in 1870. The first-floor open balcony offers a wonderful view over the large expanse of water towards the mountains.

Avenue de la Menara, two kilometres (one mile) east of the medina
Transport: Petit taxi or calèche; or bus 11.
Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk; closed daily 1200–1500.
Admission: Free (gardens); Dh10 (menzeh).

Museums
Marrakech has three excellent little museums, all set in historic buildings and offering fine, well-displayed collections of local crafts and fine arts. The Musée Dar Si Saïd (Museum of Morocco) is the official collection of fine carpets, carvings, jewellery, musical instruments and arms, housed in the 19th-century home of royal chamberlain, Sidi Said. The route through the museum flows into one grand room after another, with some peaceful walled gardens complete with fountains in which to relax. Most of the displays have explanations in French and Arabic only. Nearby, the Musée Tiskiwin is a beautiful riad (merchant’s house) containing the private collection of folk crafts belonging to Dutch expatriate, Bert Flint. It is a small, homely museum with a rather random collection of artefacts but it is charming nonetheless. Despite being around the corner from the Musée Dar Si Saïd, the entrance is poorly signed and it is easy to get lost. Most local shopkeepers should be able to point visitors in the right direction. In the heart of the souk, the Musée de Marrakech (Museum of Marrakech) is another magnificently restored 19th-century mansion, built by the Menebha family and now displaying fine art, carpets, jewellery, furniture, ceramics, textiles and manuscripts. Again, all information is in French with no English translation, but the beautiful building alone makes the place worth a visit.

Musée Dar Si Saïd
Off Rue Dar Bahia, near Bahia Palace
Opening hours: Wed–Mon 0900–1215 and 1500–1815.
Admission: Dh20.

Musée Tiskiwin
8 Rue Dar Bahia, near Bahia Palace
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1230 and 1500–1630.
Admission: Dh15.

Musée de Marrakech
Place Ben Youssef (in the souks)
Opening hours: Daily 0930–1800.
Admission: Dh30.
Transport: All three museums are accessible only by foot, although a petit taxi or calèche can drop a visitor within about 200m (650ft).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
It used to be common to step outside a hotel and find a ‘guide’ willing to give you a tour around Marrakech for a fee, but these days the tourist police have clamped down on unlicensed escorts. If visiting Marrakech for a short time, a guide can be indispensable for revealing the little-known parts of the city that might only be discovered otherwise after a week of wandering. These freelance guides can still be found but it can be a hit and miss affair. As always, a fee should be negotiated in advance and visitors should be particularly cautious in the souks, as many guides have commission arrangements with shops and these will be the ones you will be ‘guided’ to. Better still, official and fully licensed guides can be hired at a cost of around Dh150 for a morning from any good hotel or from the tourist office but even these guides often have a commission arrangement. MCI Tours, 154 Avenue Mohamed V, Guéliz (tel: (044) 438 742; fax: (044) 446 899) can arrange various walking tours, such as exploring the medina or the tanneries. A typical half-day walking tour costs around Dh150.

Other Tours
For tours of the city and day excursions, grand taxis can be chartered for around Dh200 a day. Visitors can find grand taxis for hire at the ranks in Guéliz by the Post Office or at Jemaa-el-Fna. It is also possible to hire a calèche for a tour of the town. For both modes of transport the price should be negotiated in advance.

There are scores of travel agents in the streets around Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali. Travel Link, 19 Rue Mauritania, Guéliz (tel: (044) 448 797; fax: (044) 448 839), offers hot air ballooning just outside the city (30 minutes; Dh2500 for one or two people), as well as helicopter tours of the ramparts and High Atlas Mountains (30 minutes; Dh3500 for two or three people).

There is a growing market in more adventurous excursions, such as 4x4 safaris, Atlas trekking, hunting, fishing and whitewater rafting in the High Atlas Mountains. Operators include Voyage Voyages, 194/7 Résidence Firdaous, 15 Rue Mohamed El Baqal 15, Guéliz (tel: (044) 420 667; fax: (044) 430 310; e-mail: voyagevoyages@iam.net.ma; website: www.voyagevoyages.com ).

Excursions

For a Half Day
Setti Fatma: Set within grassy terraces, the riverside hamlet of Setti Fatma is situated 40 miles (60km) southeast of Marrakech. The village lies at the very end of the winding Ourika valley beyond the reach of most tourist coaches. Setti Fatma itself is merely a mud-brick village, if rather pretty, but the seven waterfalls that tumble and tear through the craggy rocks above it make it a popular location. The first of the falls is quite an easy climb and it is possible to swim here in the icy cold waters of the rock pool or to sunbathe on the rocks. The higher falls are harder work and sturdy shoes and a good head for heights will be required, although there are plenty of guides willing to offer help. The banks of several of the falls are lined with pleasant little cafés and restaurants. The best way to get to Setti Fatma is by grand taxi from the main bus station in Marrakech (journey time – 90 minutes).

For a Whole Day
Essaouira: Located 180km (112 miles) west of Marrakech, this 18th-century coastal resort offers a welcome escape. A trading and fishing port with a history dating back to the seventh century BC, it was largely rebuilt in the 18th century and modelled on St-Malo in France. With its sandy beach and blue-and-white-painted houses, it has a long association with artists, who are a clearly visible part of life in Essaouira today. A series of forts built along the seafront, a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture, lend a powerful mystique to the town. Orson Welles shot some of his film Othello (1952) on the ramparts, the Skala du Port, here. The cooling Atlantic breeze, the alizee, has made it popular for windsurfing, although the stiff wind chops up the waves frustrating regular surfing. Sunbathing, games of football and jogging along the beach are all popular activities. The tourist office, 10 rue de Caire (tel: (044) 783 532; fax: (044) 473 819; e-mail: info@mogador-essaouira.com; website: www.mogador-essaouira.com ), can provide further information.

The quickest way of getting to Essaouira from Marrakech is by grand taxi (journey time – 2 hours), which has the added bonus of possibly witnessing tree-climbing goats en route. ONCF Supratours Express Buses leave Marrakech train station (tel: (044) 447 703), twice daily (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes). Several private buses leave Marrakech’s main bus station daily.

Sport

Morocco led the rest of Africa when it came to falling under the grip of soccer fever and was the first African nation to qualify for the World Cup finals in 1970. Morocco’s impressive performance in the 1998 World Cup finals and the country’s success in the African Nations Cup during the 1990s has emphasised the depth of quality to be found among the country’s top players, many of whom play in the English and French football leagues. The country has several high-class teams, among them Kawkab Marrakech (tel/fax: (044) 480 666), which is one of Africa’s leading sides. Tickets to see Kawbab Marrakech cost just Dh20 or Dh40, depending on the seating, and can be purchased from Stade el Harti, a five-minute walk from the Place du 16 Novembre in Guéliz.

More information about professional football in Morocco can be obtained from the Federation Royale Marocaine de Football (tel: (037) 672 706; website: www.fedefoot.ma ).

Golf: The late King Hassan II was an excellent golfer, which probably explains why Morocco has some of the best courses in Africa. There are three fine courses near Marrakech, the Golf de la Palmeraie course, Les Jardins de la Palmeraie (tel: (044) 301 010; fax: (044) 305 050; website: www.pgp.co.ma ), Golf d’Amelkis (Circuit de la Palmeraie; tel: (044) 404 414; fax: (044) 404 415), and the Royal Golf Club, Ancienne Route de Ouarzazate (tel: (044) 404 705 or 444 341; fax: (044) 430 084). A round of 18 holes costs Dh450 at the Palmeraie course, Dh450 at the Amelkis and Dh380 at the Royal Golf Club.

Skiing: From early December until March, enough snow usually settles on the Atlas Mountains to provide skiing. The ski resort of Oukaïmden, the highest in Morocco, is just 90 minutes south of Marrakech by grand taxi. With seven ski lifts, it is the best equipped in Africa. Equipment can be hired by the day. Many travel agencies around the Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali in Guéliz can arrange skiing trips. The Royal Moroccan Ski and Mountain Federation, Parc de la Ligue Arabe, Casablanca (tel: (02) 203 798; fax: (02) 474 979), can provide information too.

Swimming: Les Jardins de la Palmeraie, Palmeraie Golf Palace (tel: (044) 301 010; fax: (044) 305 050; website: www.pgp.co.ma ), is the closest Marrakech gets to a country club, with a swimming pool open to all for a daily entry fee of Dh500. They also offer spas, water therapy, massages and the like. In the hotel grounds are tennis courts, a golf course (see Golf) and riding stables. Several other large hotels, such as the Sheraton, Avenue de la Menara (tel: (044) 448 988), open their pools to non-residents at a price.

Shopping

Leading off from the northern edge of Jemaa-el-Fna are the winding alleyways of the souks, the vast crowded, chaotic central market of Marrakech. Browsers can pick up anything from jewellery, textiles or carpets to herbs, love potions and camels. Visitors will find these souks are well worth exploring, regardless of whether they intend to buy anything. The area the souks cover may at first seem like a labyrinth but it is, in fact, deceptively compact. Each area specialises in certain products; many are still workshops, with ironworkers, carpenters, dyers and tailors plying their trade in the tiny shop fronts. Divided into sections according to the trade they conduct, they are best approached from Rue Souk Smarine. This busy thoroughfare, covered to provide protection from the sun, runs for half the length of the souks before forking into Souk El Attarin and Souk El Kebir. Leading off the Souk El Attarin are spice, metalwork, dyed goods and metalwork souks. Wander around the Souk El Kebir area to find leatherwear, carpets, cassette tapes, cheap Western goods and traditional Moroccan clothing.

Bargaining is essential – visitors should start at around one third of what they want to pay. Visitors do not have to walk far before the first offers on carpets are made and those with the time and patience can easily spend hours drinking mint tea, head shaking, sighing and smiling as rugs and carpets are unrolled.

A good idea of quality and prices can be found at the government-run Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, near the Koutoubia Mosque. This is a small shopping mall and craft training centre, offering high-quality goods at reasonable, fixed prices.

For those serious about purchasing a carpet, a good place to go is Bazaar Chichoua, 5 Souk des Ksous. Other things to look out for are copper and silverware, silk or cotton garments, wooden articles and jewellery, which can be found in Galleria Ministero del Gusto, 22 Derb Azouz El Moussine, in the souks, or L’Orientaliste, 15 Rue de la Libertie, Guéliz. For leather, Place Vendome, 141 Avenue Mohammed V, is a good bet. There are many other stores in Guéliz aside from those selling traditional goods. In the streets around Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, there are English-language bookshops, as well as fashion outlets, patisseries and computer stores.

Shopping hours are usually 0900–2000/2100 Monday to Saturday. Some close for lunch; some may close on Friday; some, including those in the souks, remain open on Sunday and public holidays. There is no provision for tourists to reclaim any sales tax or VAT on accommodation or goods that they buy. Many shop-owners actively resist giving an official receipt, as this forces them to declare (and pay) the VAT.

Culture

Music is at the heart of cultural life in Marrakech, as it is throughout the whole of Morocco. In this city, as in the country, distinctions between public and private performance are practically non-existent, as many of the best performers are often to be found playing to all who want to listen at Jemaa-el-Fna.

More formal cultural events take the form of festivals – as there is very little by way of dedicated theatre, opera or dance venues, although there are some Arabic performances in small theatres for those who wish to seek them out. Performances combining music, dance and theatre are extremely popular during the National Festival of Popular Arts (see Cultural Events below). Many posters around Marrakech advertise forthcoming comedy events, although performances are in French or Arabic only.

Music: Anyone with even a passing interest in music should head straight for Jemaa-el-Fna. The best time to go for music is in the mid- to late evening, as the square gradually empties and the dedicated street musicians take over, playing their repetitive, rhythmic melodies on a mixture of mandolins, guitars, flutes, drums and makeshift violins. The most enchanting of the styles on offer is Gnawa trance music, best exemplified by the internationally renowned band Nass Marrakech, which formed in the city. This music, a blend of African styles, combines repetitive rhythms and choric voices to create a trance-like awareness of the present moment in the listener.

Marrakech is almost certainly the best place to enjoy the fusion of Moroccan music, as the city has been the host to Andalucian, Arab, Berber and African influences for up to ten centuries. For North African music lovers, one particularly good time to visit Marrakech is in June, during the two weeks of the National Festival of Popular Arts (see Cultural Events below).

Film: Marrakech and the surrounding countryside has long drawn many leading film-makers in search of stunning set locations. Alfred Hitchcock shot The Man Who Knew Too Much here in the 1950s and, more recently, Martin Scorsese used the city to evoke the biblical Holy Land in The Last Temptation of Christ (1988). Gillies MacKinnon faithfully reproduced the Marrakech of Esther Freud’s novel Hideous Kinky in his 1999 film adaptation of the book.

As a city for watching movies, there are two venues in Guéliz worth bearing in mind: the Colisee (tel: (044) 448 893) on Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni, which shows mainly American blockbusters, and the Institut Français, on Route de la Targa, Djebel Guéliz (tel: (044) 446 930), which shows mainly French-language films.

Cultural Events: The city’s main cultural event each year is without doubt the National Festival of Popular Arts, which takes place for two weeks every June. The festival mainly takes place amid the ruins of the El Badi Palace. Traditionally, the festival is a showcase for the arts and Moroccan folk culture, with performances of Moroccan dance, Berber music and interpretations of Moroccan plays. Groups of musicians and dancers gather in the city from all regions of Morocco to show off their skills. Artisans and craftspeople also use the event as a good excuse to head to town and take part in the festivities. Since 2000, European, Asian and American folk performers have also been invited to take part.

The festival also highlights the ‘Fantasia’, a uniquely Moroccan form of entertainment that was originally conceived as a military exercise but is now a tightly choreographed spectacle with charging horses, trick riding and wild dancing. Those who wish to see a Fantasia at other times should head for Chez Ali, Route de Casablanca (tel: (044) 448 187).

Literary Notes: Some of the most focused writing on Marrakech in the last century has been by foreign writers. The Voices of Marrakech (1978) by the Nobel-prize-winning author, Elias Canetti, is perhaps the best – a superb memoir of the city during the last years of French rule in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Esther Freud’s Hideous Kinky (1992), made into a film starring Kate Winslet, is the definitive fictional evocation of the impact of Marrakech on idealistic Westerners. Gavin Maxwell’s Lords of the Atlas (1966) tells the compelling story of the Glaoui family who ruled from Kasbah Telouet in the High Atlas Mountains. A Street in Marrakech (1988) by Elizabeth Warnock Fernea illustrates the trials of life inside the Marrakech medina through the eyes of an American couple who live in the city.

Among books by modern Moroccan writers, there are few specifically on Marrakech but one Moroccan novelist worth reading is El-Khouri Idriss, whose novels include Al-Bidayat (Beginnings) (1980), Al-’ayyam wa Allayali (Days and Nights) (1982) and Madinat Atturab (City of Dirt) (1988). These books convey strongly the feel of everyday Moroccan life in coffee shops and other urban settings and show a firm commitment to representing the voices of marginalised members of society.

Nightlife

Although Morocco is an Islamic country, there is a laid-back attitude towards alcohol, which is widely available, with bars in most tourist areas staying open late. Locally produced wines, beers and mineral waters are both excellent and good value, but imported drinks tend to be expensive.

By Moroccan standards, Marrakech has something of a reputation for its nightlife, which covers modern discos to belly-dancing. The medina provides traditional evening entertainment in the form of cafés, food stalls and street entertainment, with everything revolving around Jemaa-el-Fna. Several of the hotels have rooftop cafés overlooking the square, while a number of riads (historic merchants’ houses) have been converted into upmarket restaurants offering a full Moroccan experience, including a vast feast, music and dancing. Note, however, that it is not a common custom to drink alcohol outside. In bars that sell alcoholic beverages, drinkers consume beer inside and glasses of coffee on the terrace.

For modern evening entertainment, head for Guéliz. Clustered along Avenue Mohammed V, particularly around Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, are most of the city’s bars, as well as a wide variety of restaurants, bistros and pavement cafés. It is in this part of the city that the nightclubs and discos are also located. Many of the hotels have discos that attract both tourists and Moroccans. Although the hotel bars can be very insular they are often preferable to those outside, which tend to be a male preserve and occasionally intimidating. Clubs and bars stay open until late and the dress code is casual. For nightclubs, expect to pay a hefty (by Moroccan standards) admission fee of Dh100 upwards.

Bars: In the medina, the choice is somewhat limited with most of the action happening outside in the square. Head to the Hôtel Tazi on the corner of Rue Bab Agnaou and Avenue Houman El Fetouaki. The hotel bar is more of a TV lounge, and fairly unatmospheric, but it does have a good selection of imported and local beers. Guéliz has a much greater range of bars. Some are quite seedy affairs so it is better to stick to the ones listed here. Le Mirador, the rooftop café-bar above La Renaissance, Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, and Le Petit Poucet, Avenue Mohammed V, are both relaxed and fairly classy places. The Café-Bar de l’Escale, Rue Mauretania, off Avenue Mohammed V is not as trendy or exclusive as it used to be, but is still a relaxed place to drink nonetheless.

The Palais des Congrès, Avenue de France, is a huge ritzy complex that boasts four café-bars. Café Oued El Had, Avenue Casablanca, just outside town, is a smaller complex of three bars, open until 0200. All the big hotels have bars. The most glamorous in the city is undoubtedly Le Churchill, the bar of the Hôtel La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jedid, which has a sumptuous Moorish and Art Deco interior, although they will turn away those not dressed for the occasion. Le Comptoir Marrakech-Paris, Avenue Echouada, Hivernage, both cocktail bar and gourmet restaurant, is probably the hippest place in town. Visitors are welcome to drink alongside the mostly French residents in the interior and rooftop bar of Le Marrakech hotel, Place de la Liberté, Guéliz.

Casinos: The Mamounia Casino in the Hôtel La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jedid (tel: (044) 388 600), has a Grand Casino, with roulette, craps and blackjack. A less grand alternative is Es Saadi Hôtel, Avenue Kadissa, Hivernage (tel: (044) 448 811). Entrance for both is free but a jacket and tie are required. Both casinos require fairly high minimum stakes to play, making them not so attractive for the novice gambler.

Clubs: Although Marrakech has a reputation within Morocco for nightlife, do not expect to find much in the style of Western clubs. Morocco is, after all, an Islamic country and nightclubs that exist tend to be geared towards tourists and found mainly in hotels. Going under the name of discotheques, music tends to be a mixture of Western pop music and Moroccan hits. Some of the local girls who hang out there are prostitutes so tread carefully.

The newest and most glamorous discotheques in town are the buzzing Cotton Club, Hôtel Tropicana, Lotissement Semlalia, the slightly camp Diamant Noir, Hôtel le Marrakech, Place de la Liberté, Avenue Mohammed V, and the youthful Paradise, Hôtel Mansour Eddahbi, Avenue de France. The massively popular New Feeling, Palmeraie Golf Palace, Circuit de Palmeraie, is the pick of the bunch although it requires a petit taxi to get there and it is the most expensive of the clubs listed here.

Live Music: For all types of live music, the place to go is Jemaa-el-Fna (see Culture). Sometimes you may also find a group playing in the grounds behind the Koutoubia Mosque on Avenue Mohammed V. The National Festival of Popular Arts (see Cultural Events in Culture) held over a fortnight each summer in El Badi Palace offers the chance to listen to a variety of Berber tribal music.

City Statistics

Location: Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, Morocco.
Country dialling code: 212.
Population: 200,000 (in the medina); 1,000,000 (metropolitan area).
Religion: Majority Sunni Islam.
Time zone: GMT.
Electricity: Increasingly 220 volts, 120Hz, although some places still run on 110–127 volts, 60Hz; round two-pin, European-style plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 14ºC (57ºF).
Average July temp: 33ºC (95ºF).
Annual rainfall: 240mm (9.4 inches).

Special Events

Aid Al Adha (Aïd el-Khebir; Feast of Abraham’s Sacrifice), Feb
Feast of the Throne, Mar
Fatih Mouharam (Islamic New Year), Mar
Aid Al Mawlid (Prophet’s Birthday), early Jun
Labour Day, 1 May
National Feast, 23 May
Essaouira Festival, four-day art festival, mid-Jun, Essaouira
Marrakech National Festival of Popular Arts, two weeks in Jul, El Badi Palace
Allegiance of Oued Edtahab, 14 Aug
Setti Fatma (local religious festival), Aug, Settie Fatma near Marrakech
Imilchil (colourful marriage festival of the Aït Haddidou tribe), Sep, Imilchil near Marrakech
Marrakech Folk Music Festival (local folk music festival), mid-Sep, venues throughout the city
Ramadan (month-long daytime fasting throughout Marrakech, food in abundance after sunset), Oct/Nov, throughout the city
Green March Day, 6 Nov
Independence Day, 18 Nov
Eid al-Fitr (end of Ramadan, street celebrations), Nov/Dec, throughout the city
Hajj Day, 31 Dec

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: Dh5
33cl bottle of beer: Dh10 (shop), Dh20 (bar)
Financial Times newspaper: Dh18
36-exposure colour film: Dh45
City-centre bus ticket: Dh3
Adult football ticket: Dh40
Three-course meal with wine/beer: Dh170

1 Moroccan Dirham (Dh1) = £0.06; US$0.11; C$0.13; A$0.14; ¬0.09
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005