World City Guide

Mini Guide of Memphis

City Overview

Set high on the eastern bank of the mighty Mississippi River, in the southwestern corner of Tennessee, Memphis is known the world over as an immensely musical city – the cradle of the ‘blues’, the birthplace of rock ’n’ roll and the location of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s flamboyant mansion.

However, there is much more to Memphis than music. Named after the capital of ancient Egypt (a reference to the Mississippi being the Nile of America) this city is a hustler, an enterprising metropolis with trade running through its veins. There is evidence that its origins as a settlement date back to at least AD1000, when Native Americans lived and worshipped here. The modern town was founded in 1819, after its strategic position, high enough above the river to escape flooding, had attracted the attention of European settlers.

A natural crossroads between New Orleans, St Louis and Chicago, Memphis became an important trading centre in the mid 19th century and the main shipping port for cotton grown in the Mississippi Delta. Its climate was not inhospitable (although summers are hot and humid, the winters are generally mild) and the city soon grew, spreading eastwards from the river. Today, Memphis is an intriguing mix of old and new, with shabby warehouses and serene Victorian villas jostling for space with modern skyscrapers and gleaming shopping malls. The work ethic is strong and the city is home to many contemporary companies, although traditional industries are still important – as evidenced by the cotton exchanges in the Downtown area, which are still at the heart of the world cotton trade.

It was cotton that indirectly spawned the Memphis music industry, as the blues evolved from songs sung by slaves working in the cotton fields. After the Civil War, rural black people flocked to the city in search of work. Beale Street in Downtown Memphis became the centre of black life and culture and the sound of the blues soon oozed from almost every building. Today, Beale Street is still a musical Mecca, a vibrant place where bands play in smoky bars, locals and tourists stroll on sultry summer evenings and young boys perform breathtaking backflips along the street.

The laid-back atmosphere of the city, as characterised by the local saying: ‘it’s cooler in the shade’, has often concealed a rougher edge. Memphis was the setting for tragedy in 1968, when black civil rights leader Dr Martin Luther King was assassinated on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel. Tension increased, residents left for the safety of the suburbs and Downtown fell into a seemingly terminal decline.

However, the city has risen from the ashes of hatred. The Lorraine Motel is now America’s Civil Rights Museum and millions of dollars are being spent on revitalising the Downtown area. Developers are transforming derelict warehouses into trendy loft apartments, condos, art galleries and boutiques. New museums and stylish restaurants are springing up and even the vast steel Pyramid erected on the banks of the Mississippi has been superseded as premiere sports and entertainment complex by the expansive new FedExForum. They’re still making legends in Memphis and the music will continue to evolve, reflecting the heart of the times, even while the Mississippi River still rolls on to the Gulf and The Peabody ducks march precisely at 1100 and 1700.

Getting There By Air

Memphis International Airport (MIA)
Tel: (901) 922 8088.
Website: www.mscaa.com

Memphis airport is the world’s busiest cargo airport and a bustling passenger terminal handling more around nine million passengers per year. Located approximately 16km (10 miles) southeast of Downtown Memphis, the airport handles flights from seven passenger airlines and is a major hub for Northwest/KLM, which provides daily transatlantic flights to Amsterdam.

Approximate flight times to Memphis: From London is 10 hours 50 minutes; from New York is 2 hours 35 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 3 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 18 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bureau de change, bank, ATMs, travel agency, restaurants and duty free shops. There is also a hairdresser, and a hotel. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise and Hertz.

Transport to the city: It takes approximately 20 minutes to reach Downtown Memphis from the airport. For cab service, call Checker/Yellow Cab (tel: (901) 577 7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel: (901) 324 4202). Local airport shuttle service will drop you at rental car location. Hotels or motels may offer shuttle service to downtown/midtown, or will call a cab for you.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Travelling by car is the cheapest and most convenient way for one to get around America. There is an extensive system of Interstate highways (the US equivalent of motorways). These are the fastest, most direct routes and are designated by the letter I followed by a number, such as I-55. Some of these routes are tolled. The speed limit on Interstate highways is 112kph (70mph) for cars, unless stated otherwise. There is also an extensive network of federal, state and local roads and highways.

The minimum driving age is 16 years old. Driving is on the right throughout America, although specific driving rules vary with different states. In Tennessee, the driver and all passengers must wear seatbelts. Penalties for drink driving are severe and in most states, including Tennessee, it is illegal even to have an opened container of alcohol in the car. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Drivers must carry their national driving licence with them when driving, as well as proof of their third-party liability insurance.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333 or (901) 761 5371; website: www.aaasouth.com) has reciprocal agreements with many foreign motoring associations.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357

Routes to the city: From the airport, I-240 goes into central Memphis. Memphis is a major crossroads of the south. The main routes into Memphis include interstates I-40 and I-55. I-40 comes from Dallas in the west through Little Rock (Arkansas), and from Nashville in the east; while I-55 runs from St Louis in the north and Jackson, Mississippi in the south. I-55 has links to New Orleans in the south and Chicago in the north.

Approximate driving times to Memphis: From Nashville – 3 hours; St Louis – 4 hours 30 minutes; New Orleans – 7 hours; Dallas – 8 hours; Chicago – 9 hours.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates coach services to and from Memphis and around the country. Coaches depart from the coach station, 203 Union Avenue (tel: (901) 523 9253), for destinations such as Nashville, New York and Chicago.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak is the country’s official passenger train company (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com). Trains run to Memphis Central Station, 545 South Main Street (tel: (901) 526 0052). The station was built in 1914 and received a US$24 million renovation a few years ago, involving new cladding on the old façade, apartments to rent and banquet facilities. The station serves as a major passenger terminal.

Rail services: Amtrak’s services are limited, although the City of New Orleans train does connect Memphis with both Chicago (journey time – 10 hours 25 minutes) and New Orleans (journey time – 8 hours 45 minutes). Reservations are necessary for priority seating and sleeping accommodations.

Transport to the city: Central Station is at the southern end of the newly revitalized South Main Historic Arts District, where old warehouses are being turned into luxury condos and trendy galleries and businesses. The railway station also features a bus transfer station, local trolley stop from the service which runs down South Main Street to the downtown area, and a police precinct.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The transport service provider is the Memphis Area Transit Authority – MATA (tel: (901) 274 6282; website: www.matatransit.com), which operates bus and streetcar routes around the city. The telephone line is open for enquiries 24 hours/day.

Since most residents of Memphis own cars, public transport in the city is not particularly good. Timetables vary on major bus routes, so commuters should check these by calling the information help line (see above). Tickets are available for purchase on the bus.

MATA also operates a streetcar service – the Main Street Trolley. Vintage trolley cars (most imported from Oporto, Portugal and Melbourne, Australia) run in the Downtown area along Main Street, Madison Avenue and on a Riverfront Loop. The daily service is inexpensive and generally runs every five to 10 minutes, though Sunday service stops early. Tickets are available for purchase on the streetcar. Check the MATA website for fares and passes.

Taxis
It is not possible for one to hail taxis in the street – they must be booked by telephone. Providers include Yellow Cab Company (tel: (901) 577 7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel: (901) 324 4202).

Driving in the City
Memphis is a sprawling city and for areas outside of Downtown, a car is the best way of getting about. Traffic can be heavy at times, particularly during the rush hours (0730-0900 and 1700-1830), so drivers should allow for plenty of time for each journey. In general, the city is laid out on a grid, with avenues running east–west and streets running north–south. However, there are exceptions to this rule, including the Downtown area. The main east–west roads are Poplar and Union Avenues. These get very congested during rush hours and are best avoided. Locals have a reputation for being fast, aggressive drivers, so visitors should drive carefully. Driving is on the right. Right turns on red lights are permitted if it is safe, unless otherwise stated.

Parking in Downtown Memphis is fairly inexpensive. Many hotels offer free parking, but some charge for valet parking and self-parking each day. There is a free car park on the cobblestones between Front Street and the river. Metered parking is also available on the streets.

Car Hire
Some companies will insist on an International Drivers Permit, as well as a national licence, so visitors should check company regulations before leaving home. Usually an international driver’s licence is only required if a visitor’s national driver’s licence is not in English. Most car hire companies require drivers to be over 25 years old. Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) cover is advised when hiring a car.

All major car hire companies have offices in the city, located near to the airport. These include Alamo (tel: (901) 332 8412 or (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (901) 527 1138 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (901) 398 8888 or (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Enterprise (tel: (901) 525 8588 or (800) 3258007; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (901) 345 5680 or (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and Thrifty (tel: (901) 345 0170 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com).

Bicycle Hire
Cyclists can hire bikes at the Adventure Centre at Mud Island River Park, 125 North Front Street (tel: (800) 507 6507 or (901) 576 7241) or from the Peddler Bicycle Shop, 575 South Highland Street (tel: (901) 327 4833; website: www.peddlerbikeshop.com).

Outdoors Inc. (website: www.outdoorsinc.com) has two locations in the city, at 5245 Poplar Avenue (tel: (901) 767 6790) and 1710 Union Avenue (tel: (901) 722 8988). Mountain bikes are available for daily hire, but not overnight. Deposit required.

Business

Business Etiquette
Memphis is a friendly, laid-back city and this relaxed attitude often extends into the business world. There are no strict dress codes. At some companies, such as banks and law offices, men are expected to wear suits and ties every day. But in other firms, male employees wear smart-casual clothes, such as polo shirts and chinos. Sandals, shorts or jeans should be avoided, however. Despite this relaxed attitude, punctuality is still considered important and business cards are vital, being exchanged as soon as people meet.

The working day tends to start early, at around 0830 and breakfast meetings are common, although their timing will vary. Meetings may also be held over lunch or dinner in hotels or restaurants. Most big companies prohibit employees accepting gifts over US$25-50, so offerings should be limited to mementoes from home or perhaps a bottle of wine, if invited to someone’s home. Most companies finish work at around 1700, although many people frequently work later.

Memphis people enjoy a drink, although they avoid consumption at lunchtime, and many people smoke – the city being free of the stringent anti-smoking legislation so often found in other American cities.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Memphis spreads eastwards from its position on the banks of the Mississippi River and the best place for visitors to begin any sightseeing tour is Downtown, the oldest part of the city and the part nearest the river. This is the location of Beale Street, always busy with tourists exploring its shops, lively clubs and restaurants and the famous Peabody Hotel. It is a short walk from here to the bank of the lazy Mississippi, where a monorail slides high above the river and onto Mud Island and the River Museum.

While Downtown can be explored on foot, other attractions are scattered throughout the city, which is so spread out that transport (preferably a car) is needed to reach them. Graceland, for instance, Elvis Presley’s mansion and the city’s top visitor attraction, lies 16km (10 miles) to the south of the city, while the best shops are to be found in the gleaming malls of East Memphis.

A good introduction to the city is a trip on the Main Street Trolley, which runs along the river and through the heart of Downtown.

Tourist Information
Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau
47 Union Avenue
Tel: (800) 873 6282 or (901) 543 5400. Fax: (901) 543 5335/50.
E-mail: vic1@mcvb.org
Website: www.memphistravel.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Nov-Mar); daily 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct).

Tennessee Welcome Centre
119 Riverside Drive
Tel: (901) 543 6757. Fax: (901) 543 6324.
E-mail: vic1@mcvb.org
Opening hours: 0700-2300.

Passes
Passes and discounts depend on vendor and attraction site. MATA (Memphis Area Transit Authority) offers discounts to seniors, students and disabled. The Memphis CVB also has downloadable discount coupons on its website.

Key Attractions

Graceland
The home of Elvis Presley, Graceland is the most famous attraction in Memphis. Elvis purchased the mansion in 1957 and lived there until his death in 1977. His rags to riches story embodies the American Dream and Graceland has plenty to interest the casual visitor as well as the devoted fan. A tour of the mansion includes the gloriously tasteless ‘jungle room’, with its floor-to-ceiling carpets that Elvis designed himself. In the Meditation Garden, visitors can see Elvis’ grave, which is always covered with bouquets and wreaths, sent by sobbing and adoring fans from all over the world. At Graceland Plaza, opposite the mansion, are a number of exhibitions dedicated to different areas of the singer’s life and obsessions. These include an Automobile Museum, containing his famous pink Cadillac.

3734 Elvis Presley Boulevard
Tel: (800) 238 2000 (reservations) or (901) 332 3322.
Website: www.elvis.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1700, Sun 0930-1600 (Mar-Oct); daily 0930-1600 (Nov-Feb); no mansion tours Tues (Nov-Feb). Last tour begins at above ticket counter closing times.
Admission charge.

Beale Street
Historically the centre for black music and culture in the city, Beale Street is still the musical heart of Memphis and worth visiting just for its atmosphere. It is known as the birthplace of the blues, because it was here that W C Handy wrote ‘Memphis Blues’, so marking the very first time a blues tune had been put onto paper. His house is now a museum, the W C Handy House Museum, filled with photographs, memorabilia and some of the original sheet music written by the man who popularised blues. Beale Street is still the best place in the city for fans to hear live music, with bars such as B B King’s Blues Club. It is also the location of A Schwab, the oldest shop in the city, which has been run by the Schwab family business since 1876. The general store sells everything from size 74 men’s trousers to various voodoo potions.

Beale Street Historic District
Tel: (901) 526 0110.
Website: www.bealestreet.com

B B King’s Blues Club
143 Beale Street
Tel: (901) 524 5464.
Website: www.bbkingclubs.com

W C Handy House Museum
525 Beale Street
Tel: (901) 522 1556 or 527 3427.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (summer); Tues-Sat 1100-1600 (winter).
Admission charge.

A Schwab
163 Beale Street
Tel: (901) 523 9782.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700.
Free admission.

Sun Studio
This small recording studio fully deserves its title as ‘the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll’, for it was here that Elvis Presley made his very first recording, ‘My Happiness’. Sun Studio looks much as it did in the 1950s and contains musical memorabilia, such as a microphone used by Elvis. The tour includes outtakes of recordings made there by the king and other Sun artists, such as Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins. It is still a working studio and artists like U2 have recently made recordings here. The adjacent Sun Studio café has an old-fashioned fountain where sodas and milkshakes are served.

706 Union Avenue
Tel: (901) 521 0664 or (800) 441 6249.
Website: www.sunstudio.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission charge.

Memphis Rock ’n’ Soul Museum
This museum tells the story of Memphis music and how it influenced various genres. It explains how rock ’n’ roll (and later soul) grew out of the blues, gospel and country music of poor rural sharecroppers from Mississippi. The collection includes early films of Elvis and memorabilia such as Ike Turner’s piano and Carl Perkins’ guitar. CD players are distributed to each visitor, so they can listen in on the songs related to each exhibit. These range from scratchy recordings of old blues numbers to famous songs from Memphis’ Stax Records, including ‘Dock of the Bay’ and the theme from Shaft. The museum no longer shares the same building as the Gibson Guitar Factory, the manufacturing base for the world-famous guitars, but has moved to the Plaza of the FedExForum in the Beale Street Entertainment District.

191 Beale Street, Suite 100, Plaza of the FedExForum
Tel: (901) 205 2533.
Website: www.memphisrocknsoul.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900.
Admission charge.

National Civil Rights Museum
This museum is housed in what was formerly the Lorraine Motel, the site of the assassination of Dr Martin Luther King, in 1968. The museum traces the history of the civil rights movement in America, from slavery to the present day. There are various tableaux, such as one demonstrating Rosa Parks’ refusal to give up her seat on a bus to a white man – sparking a whole wave of protests. The most poignant sight of all is Dr King’s motel room, which has been preserved as it was on the day of the shooting.

450 Mulberry Street
Tel: (901) 521 9699.
Website: www.civilrightsmuseum.org
Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 1300-1800 (Jun-Aug); Mon, Wed-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (Sep-May).
Admission charge.

Mud Island River Park
Mud Island is just what its name says it is – an island made from the mud and silt that is found in the Mississippi River. It first appeared in 1900, was washed away and then reappeared as a permanent feature in 1913. Attractions include the bomber Memphis Belle, one of the most famous B-17s to fight in World War II (website: www.memphisbelle.com) and a scale model of the Mississippi River, which is even filled with flowing water. The main draw for visitors is the Mississippi River Museum, which covers 10,000 years of river history. Canoe, kayak, bike and pedal boat rental also available.

125 North Front Street
Tel: (901) 576 7241 or (800) 507 6507.
Website: www.mudisland.com
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (spring and autumn); Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (summer); closed (winter).
Free admission.

Pink Palace Museum
The Pink Palace Museum was built in the 1920s by entrepreneur and founder of the Piggly Wiggly grocery chain, Clarence Saunders. He lost his fortune and the pink stone and marble mansion on Central Avenue, nicknamed the ‘Pink Palace’, was given to the City of Memphis for use as a museum. Today it is a regional landmark with displays on local history, culture, medicine, music, natural history and science. It also contains a replica of Saunders’ first Piggly Wiggly supermarket, as well as state-of-the-art planetarium and 3-D IMAX theatre. The museum offers many educational programs for children.

3050 Central Avenue
Tel: (901) 320 6320.
Website: www.memphismuseums.org
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Peabody Ducks
Possibly the city’s most unusual attraction, the Peabody Ducks live on the roof of the elegant Peabody Hotel. Every morning at 1100, the birds leave their enclosure and are led into a lift (elevator). With great fanfare, they emerge downstairs and waddle across a red carpet to the marble fountain in the lobby, where they spend the day. In the evening, at 1700 precisely, the performance is repeated when they return to the roof.

The Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Avenue
Tel: (901) 529 4000 or (800) 732 2639.
Website: www.peabodymemphis.com
Ducks parade at 1100 and 1700.
Free admission.

Peabody Place Museum
There is much more to Memphis than music, as this extensive collection of Chinese art proves. Works come from the Manchu Qing (Ch’ing) Dynasty and include over 100 exquisite exhibits crafted from jade, ivory and porcelain.

119 South Main Street, Pembroke Square, Concourse Level
Tel: (901) 523 2787.
Website: www.belz.com
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1730, Sat and Sun 1200-1700.
Admission charge.

Full Gospel Tabernacle Church
The Full Gospel Tabernacle is the church where the Reverend Al Green preaches on most Sundays. The music is loud and the Reverend Green’s sermons are energetic and uplifting. The congregation dance (and frequently faint) in the aisles. Although attracting tourists, these are genuine religious services and should be respected.

787 Hale Road
Tel: (901) 396 9192/0.
Website: www.algreenmusic.com
Sunday services run 1130-1400.
Free admission.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Like most American cities, Memphis is not really geared towards pedestrians and it is only the Downtown area visitors can successfully explore on foot. Memphis Explorations (tel: (901) 761 1838; website: http://memphisexplorations.com) offers customised tours, including a ‘Downtown Elvis-style’ walking tour every Saturday, April-October, for groups over two, by reservation. The Elvis tour lasts three hours and includes more than 20 Elvis sites, including his teenage home at Lauderdale Courts. Tours depart from the Elvis statue on Beale Street, at 1000. Contact the Memphis CVB (tel: (901) 543 5300; www.memphistravel.com) for other self-guided walking tours.

Bus Tours
Blues City Tours (tel: (901) 522 9229; website: www.memphisite.com/bluescity) operates a variety of daily bus tours of Memphis. The three-hour ‘Memphis City Tour’ takes in all the major sights, including Downtown, Beale Street, the Lorraine Hotel, Graceland, The Peabody Duck March and the Pyramid. Free hotel pick-up is arranged. Similarly, Coach USA (tel: (901) 382 6366; website: www.coachusa.us) offers a variety of tours, including a ‘Memphis City Tour’ and an ‘Elvis Platinum Tour’. Pick-up is available from all Memphis hotels. Both tours last three hours. All Points USA (tel: (901) 432 9042 or (877) 892 3883) and Crown Coach Charters & Tours (tel: (901) 384 9988 or (800) 617 8224) offer a variety of bus tours around Memphis and the surrounding region, for both groups and individuals.

Other Tours
A trip on the Mississippi is one of the most relaxing tours available. Memphis Queen Line (tel: (800) 221 6197 or (901) 527 5694; website: www.memphisqueen.com) operates sightseeing cruises in traditional paddle-wheel boats. Tours operate from 1 March to 30 November, departing from Memphis Harbour, at the foot of Union Avenue on the river.

American Dream Safari (tel: (901) 527 8870; website: www.americandreamsafari.com) runs speciality tours of Memphis in a 1955 Cadillac. Tours range from a three-hour city tour to the eight-hour Delta Day Trip. The meeting point is usually at the fountain in The Peabody Hotel lobby, 149 Union Avenue, although hotel pick-up can be arranged – a surcharge may apply if the hotel is out of the Downtown area.

Memphis Explorations (tel: (901) 761 1838; website: http://memphisexplorations.com) offers driving tours of the city and a full-day trip to Tupelo, to see Elvis’ birthplace. Hotel pick-up is arranged.

Driving tours are also available from several other companies: Destination King (website: www.destinationking.com); Experience Memphis, Inc. (tel: (901) 218 5787); Heritage Tours (tel: (901) 527 3427; website: www.hertitagetoursmemphis.com); See Memphis Inc. (tel: (901) 525 4617 or (800) 235 7311); Sweet Magnolia Tours (tel: (901) 525 2842; (866) 320 5295; website: www.SweetMagnoliaTours.com).

Downtown horse-drawn carriage tours parade the streets nightly, only minutes from every Downtown hotspot and about an hour from Midtown Memphis attractions such as the Memphis Zoo, Brooks Museum and Overton Square. Carriage tours also run on a shortened daytime schedule (tel: (901) 527 7542 or (888) 267 9100; website: www.carriagetoursofmemphis.com).

See Memphis by land and water. The newest option for sightseeing in Memphis is Ride the Ducks, an amphibious vehicle holding 30-40 passengers that drives past the principal Downtown sights before descending into the river for a cruise up the Mississippi! Departures from outside AutoZone Park on the corner of Third Street and Union Avenue (tel: (901) 521 3825 (DUCK); website: www.memphisducks.com).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Chucalissa Museum: Located on the campus of the University of Memphis, Chucalissa Museum, 1987 Indian Village Drive (tel: (901) 785 3160; website: http://cas.memphis.edu/chucalissa), is an atmospheric reconstruction of a 15th-century Native American village, built on the site of an ancient settlement. The museum features a Shaman’s house and exhibits recovered from archaeological digs, such as a water bottle with a rattlesnake motif, cooking pots and dishes. The museum is closed Mondays. It is best reached via I-55, south of Memphis to exit 7, then right onto Mitchell Road. Admission charge.

Alex Haley House Museum: Tennessee’s first state-owned African-American historic site, the childhood home of Alex Haley, is located in the town of Henning, approximately 167km (104 miles) from Memphis. The Alex Haley House Museum, 200 South Church Street (tel: (731) 738 2240), contains memorabilia of the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Roots (1976). Haley’s burial site is in the garden. Located in Henning, Tennessee, the museum is accessible by car via Highway 51 north, or by arranging a special tour with one of the local tour operators. It is usually closed Mondays. Admission charge.

For a Whole Day

Tupelo: Down in Mississippi, approximately 160km (100 miles) southeast of Memphis, is Tupelo, a place of pilgrimage for Elvis Presley fans. Elvis was born here in 1935. The icon also lived in the town until his early teens. His home, the Elvis Presley Birthplace (tel: (662) 841 1245), presents a striking contrast to the excesses of Graceland. Other sights associated with the singer include Tupelo Hardware, the shop where Elvis’ mother bought him his first guitar. Tupelo also has a colourful museum, the Oren Dunn City Museum (tel: (662) 841 6438), which celebrates the history of the city. It includes a comprehensive display of equipment and clothing used by NASA on flights to the moon. These were obtained with the assistance of the local minister, who had once been the minister to some of the astronauts in Houston, Texas. It is also possible for day-trippers to visit Tupelo National Battlefield (tel: (662) 680 4027), the site of the Battle of Tupelo, the last major engagement of the Civil War in Mississippi.

Tupelo is approximately a two-hour drive from Memphis. The tourist office for Tupelo, 399 East Main Street (tel: (800) 533 0611 or (662) 841 6521; website: www.tupelo.net), provides further information.

Sport

Shopping

A car is required to get to Memphis’ main shops, since these are found in the enormous shopping malls of East Memphis. Malls worth heading for include Oak Court Mall, 4451 Poplar Avenue, Wolfchase Galleria, 2760 North Germantown Parkway, and Hickory Ridge Mall, 6075 Winchester Road, all in the northeastern suburbs. The city’s newest mall is Peabody Place, 150 Peabody Place, Downtown Memphis.

Bargain hunters should head for Belz Factory Outlet Mall, 3536 Canada Road, where brand-name goods are available at up to 75% off normal prices. For musical souvenirs, it is worth visiting Shangri-la Records, 1916 Madison Avenue, which is an Aladdin’s Cave of vinyl records, cassettes and CDs. The most famous shop in Memphis is A Schwab, on Beale Street. This dusty emporium seems to have changed little since it opened in 1876. Shoppers may not be in search of size 74 men’s trousers, 44 types of suspenders or voodoo potions, but it is worth a visit just to look. Those determined to buy an Elvis souvenir should head to Graceland Plaza, opposite Graceland.

On the third weekend of each month there is a large Flea Market, situated at 955 Early Maxwell Boulevard, open 0800-1800. Shopping malls are generally open Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800. There is no state income tax in Tennessee, which means that sales tax is high at 9.25% and there is no way to reclaim it. Prices in shops are quoted without this tax added on; so foreign shoppers should always bear this in mind before purchasing anything.

Culture

The cultural scene in Memphis is dominated by popular music. It was here that W C Handy wrote ‘Memphis Blues’ and the young Elvis Presley was exposed to the black music that so influenced him. When Presley was discovered by Sun Records in the early 1950s, his distinctive sound took the country by storm and rock ’n’ roll was born. In the 1960s, Memphis recording studio Stax Records (website: www.soulsvilleusa.com) helped to develop a new sound that had its roots in the civil rights movement. This was soul music. There are still several recording studios in Memphis and the city continues to inspire musicians, such as Irish band U2, who recorded some tracks for their Rattle and Hum album at Sun Studio.

There are two main performance venues in the city. The new FedExForum, 191 Beale Street (tel: (901) 205 1535; website: www.fedexforum.com) opened in October 2004, is the home of the NBA Grizzlies, the University of Memphis Tigers basketball team, and is a major venue for concerts and special events such as boxing and world wrestling. Mud Island Amphitheatre, 125 North Front Street (tel: (800) 507 6507 or (901) 576 7241; website: www.mudisland.com), is a popular setting for outdoor concerts. The main performing arts venue is a restored vaudeville palace, the Orpheum Theatre, 203 Main Street (tel: (901) 525 3000; website: www.orpheum-memphis.com).

The Memphis Cook Convention Centre, 255 North Main Street (tel: (800) 726 0915; website: www.memphisconvention.com), completed its US$92-million expansion project and in January 2003 opened the world-class Cannon Centre for the Performing Arts (website: www.thecannoncenter.com). The 2,100-seat facility is the home of the Memphis Symphony Orchestra, and hosts a multitude of other events including ballet, opera, pop and jazz concerts. The 32-storey steel Pyramid Arena, One Auction Avenue (tel: (901) 521 9675; website: www.pyramidarena.com), once the main concert and sporting venue in town, is now used as a soundstage and construction mill, as well as changing exhibits in the WONDERS International Cultural Series (website: www.wonders.org). The Pyramid will feature in the next Craig Brewer movie, Black Snake Moan, starring Samuel L Jackson.

The Memphis Flyer is a free weekly publication that is available throughout the city. The main ticket agency is TicketMaster (tel: (901) 525 1515).

Music: The Memphis Symphony Orchestra (tel: (901) 324 3627; website: www.memphissymphony.org) is well established and performs both classical and pop concerts from September to early May. Their permanent home is the Cannon Centre for the Performing Arts. Germantown Performing Arts Centre, 1801 Exeter Road (tel: (901) 757 7500; website: www.gpacweb.com) hosts a variety of professional world-class performers and is home to the IRIS Chamber Orchestra. Opera Memphis (tel: (901) 257 3100; website: www.operamemphis.org) is the state’s largest professional opera company. It performs at the Orpheum Theatre (see above), and the company stages four productions each year.

Theatre: Memphis has a lively theatre scene. For professional productions, there is the Playhouse on the Square, 51 South Cooper Street (tel: (901) 726 4656; website: www.playhouseonthesquare.org), which stages a large number of Broadway musicals. It has a sister theatre, Circuit Playhouse, 1705 Poplar Avenue (tel: (901) 726 5523), which offers still more plays and the occasional premiere. For highly respected community theatre, there is Theatre Memphis, 630 Perkins Extended (tel: (901) 682 8601/8323; website: www.theatrememphis.org), which presents everything from Broadway plays to alternative works.

Dance: Thanks to professional dance company Ballet Memphis (tel: (901) 737 7322; website: www.balletmemphis.org), the city also has a reputation for top-quality dance performance. The company includes national and international award-winning dancers and stages contemporary ballets by choreographers such as Trey McIntyre, as well as classical works like The Nutcracker and Giselle. Performances take place at the Orpheum Theatre (see above).

Film: There is no shortage of cinemas in Memphis and it is possible to watch anything from the latest Hollywood blockbusters to art house movies. Studio on the Square, 2105 Court Street (tel: (901) 725 7151; website: www.malco.com), has five screens showing alternative, foreign and speciality films. Other cinemas showing mainstream films include the 22-screen theatre at Peabody Place, Second Street; Stage Cinema, Germantown; The Majestic, Winchester at Riverdale; and Wolfchase Galleria, Germantown. There is also a 3-D IMAX cinema at the Pink Palace Museum, 3050 Central Avenue (tel: (901) 763 4629). Peabody Place also houses a 21-screen cinema and a 3-D IMAX.

Memphis is rapidly becoming a favourite with location hunters, and a number of films have been shot in the city in recent years. These include Jim Jarmusch’s cult film Mystery Train (1989), about a group of Japanese tourists who come to Memphis for the blues, and Cookie’s Fortune (1999), a Robert Altman murder mystery. A number of film adaptations of John Grisham’s books have also been filmed here, including Sidney Pollack’s 1993 film The Firm, starring Tom Cruise; The Client (1993) and The Rainmaker (1997). Other notable films include Cast Away, starring Tom Hanks (2000) and Walk the Line (2004).

Literary Notes: It was in Memphis that the career of the acclaimed playwright, Tennessee Williams, began. He wrote his first play, Cairo! Shanghai! Bombay! here in 1935, and it was premiered in a Memphis theatre. ‘Then and there the theatre and I found each other, for better and for worse,’ he wrote later. Not surprisingly, the Memphis music scene has inspired a number of books, including Another Good Loving Blues (1994), Arthur Flowers’ book about a blues singer’s move to Beale Street in the 1920s, when the blues was the hottest music around. Memphis is also the setting for many of the novels of John Grisham, who practised law in Southaven, a Memphis suburb, for 10 years and who uses the city as an atmospheric backdrop to his plot-driven bestsellers. These legal thrillers include The Firm (1993), The Client (1994) and The Rainmaker (1997).

Nightlife

The bars and clubs of Memphis are so lively that some people come here for the nightlife alone. There is little differentiation between bars and clubs, as practically every venue has live music at least a couple of nights a week. Beale Street is the hub of activity and is lined with clubs that stay open until the early hours. While drinks in Beale Street clubs might be a bit pricier than at other outlets, they are not outrageously expensive.

Clubs charge a small admission fee but on Friday and Saturday nights you can buy a US$10 wristband that will get you entry to all the clubs along the street. Dress can be as casual as you wish, although you might want to make a bit of an effort, seeing as the Memphis crowd loves to dress to impress – and flash their flesh. The minimum legal drinking age is 21 years old and you might be asked for proof of your age. Some bars on Beale Street are open till 0500.

Nightlife is not restricted to Beale Street, however. The Pinch Historic District in Downtown has several popular restaurants/bars and the area around Overton Square in Midtown is also worth investigating. Weekly updates of events in the city can be found in the Memphis Flyer (website: www.memphisflyer.com), a free local paper.

Bars: While it can hardly be termed just a bar, the lobby of the luxurious Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Avenue, in Downtown Memphis, is an essential stop for anyone visiting the city. It is the most elegant venue in town and the very best place for people watching. The busiest nights are Thursday evenings, during the summer, when rooftop parties are held. Attracting a young, fashionable crowd is Sleep Out Louie’s, 88 Union Avenue, a popular oyster bar and place to pose. More down-to-earth places are Silky O’Sullivan’s, 183 Beale Street, an Irish theme bar where you can get a chilled Guinness, and Zinnie’s, 1688 Madison Avenue, a well-established, no-nonsense bar in midtown Memphis. If you want a burger along with your beer, head for one of the branches of Huey’s, said to serve the best burgers in town. You can find them at 1927 Madison Avenue, in midtown, as well as 77 South Second Street, Downtown.

Casinos: Apart from a state lottery implemented in 2004, gambling is banned throughout Tennessee. But you only have to drive south over the Mississippi state line (about 30 minutes by car) to reach all the casinos you could wish for. Tunica (website: www.tunicamiss.org) is one of Mississippi’s thriving gambling resorts and has a clutch of 24-hour, Las Vegas-style casinos situated on riverboats built on permanently docked barges, such as the Gold Strike Casino Resort, 1010 Casino Centre Drive, Robinsonville, and Grand Casino-Tunica, 13615 Old Hwy 61N, Robinsonville. The legal gambling age at Tunica is 21 years – a picture ID or passport is recommended. There is no dress code.

Clubs: Don your Stetson and head for Denim and Diamonds, 5353 South Mendenhall Road, East Memphis, for a night of line dancing. Old-fashioned cars are out in front of the red, white and blue building that houses Raiford’s Disco Lounge, 115 Vance Avenue, where there is smoke and mirrors, and the dancing stretches into the wee hours. Another good dancing alternative is Club 152, 152 Beale Street, downtown’s premier place for techno, house and alternative dance music. Live music and the hottest local bands are popular with the younger set. Backstreet, 2018 Court Street (website: www.backstreetmemphis.com) is the largest gay club in Memphis.

Live Music: Practically everywhere in Memphis has live music at least a couple of nights a week, so your main problem will be deciding where to go. Beale Street is the starting place for anyone wanting to check out the Memphis scene. Perhaps the best known but also most touristy place is B B King’s Blues Club, 143 Beale Street (website: www.bbkingbluesclub.com) owned by the legendary musician.

More popular with the locals is Ernestine and Hazel’s, 531 South Main Street. This one-time brothel is now a lively joint with late-night rhythm and blues and rock music. You can also try Rum Boogie, 182 Beale Street (website: www.rumboogie.com) which attracts national big-name blues bands. For the ultimate in cool blues, take a taxi to Wild Bill’s, 1580 Vollintine Avenue, a smoky, no-frills juke joint that’s so good the locals like to keep it to themselves.

City Statistics

Location: Southwest corner of Tennessee, Shelby County, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 671,929 (city); 1,195,977 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110-120 volts AC, 60Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 5°C (41°F).
Average July temp: 27°C (81°F).
Annual rainfall: 1,234mm (48.6 inches).

Special Events

Dr Martin Luther King Jr’s Birthday, commemorative events, Jan, National Civil Rights Museums
Elvis Presley Birthday Celebration, concert and parties, early Jan, Graceland
Dr Martin Luther King Jr’s Birthday, third Mon in Jan, throughout the city, with a tribute concert at the Temple of Deliverance Church of God in Christ
Black History Month, Feb
Beale Street Zydeco Festival, Mardi Gras Comes to Beale Street, Feb
Africa in April, Apr
Memphis International Film Festival, Apr
Southern Women’s Show, Apr
Memphis in May International Festival, including the Beale Street Music Festival, World Championship BBQ Cooking Contest and Great Southern Food Festival, May, various venues
W.C. Handy Awards, May
Memphis Italian Festival, Jun
FedEx St Jude Golf Classic, Jun, Tournament of Players Club, Southwind
AutoZone Red, White & Blue Celebration, produced by Beale Street Merchants’ Association, Jul
Elvis Tribute Week, celebration of life and work of Elvis Presley, early Aug, throughout the city and Graceland
Mid-South Fair, family event with amusement rides, food stands and other attractions, mid Sep, South Fairgrounds, 940 Maxwell Boulevard
Memphis Music & Heritage Festival, Sep
Southern Heritage Classic Football, Sep
Germantown Festival, Sep
Cooper-Young Festival, Sep

Cost of Living

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005