Further Distractions
Basilica de Sant’Ambrogio Built by Saint Ambrose, the Patron Saint of Milan, and dedicated to the third-century Martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, the original basilica dates back to the fourth century. The three saints’ remains can be seen in a glass case under the main altar. Bishop Ambrose’s most famous convert was St Augustine. The Sant’Ambrogio basilica (9th-12th centuries) is one of Milan’s finest churches, a monumental building in the mature Lombard Romanesque style, retaining its early Christian basilica plan based on the architecture of ancient Rome. The Chapel of St Victor (Sacello di San Vittore in Ciel d’Oro), at the end of the south aisle, is a vaulted funerary chapel built in the church cemetery in the fourth century. It was lined (in the next century) with superb mosaics, of which that of St Ambrose may be from living memory. The Museo della Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, which includes paintings, fabrics from the fourth century, illuminated manuscripts, stained glass and mosaics, has now been divided between the Museo Diocesano and the San Vittore in Ciel d’Oro part of the Basilica.
Piazza Sant’Ambrogio Tel: 02 8645 0895. Transport: Metro Sant’Ambrogio. Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Fri 1000-1200 and 1500-1700; Tue, Sat and Sun 1500-1700 only. Admission: Free.
Il Cimitèro Monumentale (Monumental Cemetery) A few blocks east of Stazione Garibaldi, the Monumental Cemetery, opened in 1866, may appeal to romantic souls, happy to leave the bustle and grime of Milan’s quick and ponder Milan’s dead instead. Much of the funerary architecture is excellent Art Nouveau, celebrating the passing of Milan’s rich and famous, including Toscanini, novelist Alessandro Manzoni and poet Salvatore Quasimodo. The Palanti Chapel is more poignant, commemorating the 800 Milanesi killed in Nazi concentration camps. A guidebook available at the entrance indicates the most notable monuments.
Piazzale Cimitèro Monumentale 1 Tel: 02 659 9938. Transport: Metro Garibaldi; tram 3, 4, 11, 12, 14, 29, 30 or 33; bus 41, 51, 70, 94. Opening hours: Tue-Sun 0830-1715. Admission: Free.
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