World City Guide

Excursions

For a Half Day
Certosa di Pavia: The Carthusian Monastery of Pavia (e-mail: certosapavia@libero.it; website: www.comune.pv.it/certosadipavia/home.htm ) is a living museum, an architectural treasure box containing prized artworks and run by the monks who produce excellent Chartreuse liqueurs. Located 140km (87 miles) south of Milan, 40km (25 miles) from the city of Pavia, in an idyllic setting, the monastery is reachable by bus or train. Hourly buses leave the Piazza Castello and the monastery is a 15-minute walk from the bus stop. Regular trains (headed for Genoa) depart from Milano Centrale. The Certosa di Pavia is a 15-minute walk (skirting the Certosa walls) from the station. Duke Gian Galeazzo Visconti ordered the monastery’s construction in 1396, the same year as Milan’s Cathedral, as a monument to the Visconti dynasty. The Cistercian monks conduct tours, in return for voluntary donations to the order, showing the cloisters, cells and beautiful frescoes by Pietro Perugino and Bergognone. The ornate marble façade by Amadeo is a masterpiece, famous throughout Italy. The monastery is open Tuesday to Sunday 0900-1130 and 1430-1800.

For a Whole Day
Bergamo: Only 43km (27 miles) from Milan, the walled hilltop town of Bergamo is an enchanting place with a wealth of medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Visitors should avoid the lower town (Bergamo Bassa) and instead head for the Piazza Vecchia in the heart of the upper town (Bergamo Alta), with the Palazzo della Ragione, restaurants, shops and the Torre della Civica (ascended by lift). In the nearby Piazetta del Duomo, the Cathedral is overshadowed by the Romanesque church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which includes a 19th-century memorial to the native composer, Gaetano Donizetti (whose museum is also worth a visit). The best views are from the Castello on the summit of San Vigilio. The Accademia Carrara, at the bottom of the plateau on the eastern side, is one of Italy’s finest art galleries, beautifully laid out and featuring important art from the middle ages to the 20th century. Open Wednesday to Monday 0930-1230 and 1430-1730, admission to the gallery is ¬2.58.

Most of the province’s cultural events take place in Bergamo, including the Donizetti Festival (Sep) and the series of Baroque concerts presented in its churches (Oct). Other events include the Feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, which includes the blessing of carts and farming tools (17 Jan), Bergamo’s summer festival, Estate vivi la tua città (Jun-Sep), and an antique market on the third Sunday of every month. The holiday of the city’s patron saint (26 August) includes a huge fresh produce and livestock market. Trains run from Milan (Porto Garibaldi or Lambrate), with the last train leaving Bergamo at about 2230, allowing enough time to enjoy an excellent meal in the upper town. It is best to go straight uptown, either by bus 1 or 3 from outside the station (one can go all the way, or get off at the funicular stop on Via Vittorio Emanuele II, which is free with a bus ticket).

APT Bergamo, Viale Vittorio Emanuele 20, Bergamo (tel (035) 210 204; fax (035) 230 184; e-mail: aptbg@apt.bergamo.it; website: www.apt.bergamo.it ) provides further information.

Bellagio: The picturesque mountain and lake setting of Bellagio is an obvious tonic for the city weary. Located some 50km (31 miles) north of Milan, visitors must have a car, unless taking a train to Como and then catching one of the boats from Piazza Cavour quay. The town enjoys fantastic views and a temperate microclimate – hence the luxury villas nestling around its narrow streets. The Villa Serbelloni, owned by the Rockefeller Foundation, has wonderful terraced gardens, while the neo-classical Villa Melzi, where Franz Liszt and Stendhal once stayed, has beautiful landscaped gardens. The villas are open March to October and guided tours are available in English daily at 1100 and 1600. Tourist information is available (tel: (031) 950 204; website: www.bellagiolakecomo.com ).