World City Guide

Mini Guide of Marseilles

City Overview

Looking out across the azure Mediterranean sea, surrounded by golden hills and the white limestone cliffs of the famous Calanques, Marseilles enjoys a truly fantastic setting. And as many Marseillais will tell you, in that peculiar accent that foreigners find both alluring and tricky to understand, they love their city here, and they are proud of it too.

France’s second bigggest city is also the country’s oldest. Founded by the Phoceans 600 years BC (the city was then known as Phocee) then developed by the Romans (Massilia) as a trading post, before developing between the 15th and 19th centuries around the commercial port and the local industry, soap (the famous ‘savon de Marseille’).

The getaway to Africa and a crossroad for many ships in the Mediterranean, Marseilles has always been a cultural melting pot (Alexandre Dumas famously called it ‘the meeting place of the entire world’). Not always without its problems, the influx of immigrants has nonetheless made the city richer, not least culturally, and today Marseilles is a vibrant city enjoying a new breath of life.

The city that gave France its national anthem is no longer ashamed of its past but has become proud of its individuality. Marseilles, which was once notorious for its crime rate and rough edges, has cleaned up its act over the past 10 years (with a significant amount of public money invested in the process) and it looks better than it has in decades. But it has lost none of its flavour and unique character.

The booming music and fashion industries draw a trendy young crowd that has injected some much needed dynamism too. And proof of the city’s newly gained confidence can be seen it its recent bit to host America’s Cup in 2007.

And with the extension of the TGV line, which has brought the city within three hours of the French capital (and six hours from London), it has become an ideal base from which to explore the beautiful surrounding area of Provence.

Marseilles has a mild coastal climate all year round, and it is hot and sunny here most of the year (the city gets more than 3,000 hours of sunshine a year). The Mistral regularly blows here, especially in the autumn, which is conducive to a variety of nautical activities.

Getting There By Air

Marseille Provence Airport (MRS)
Tel: (04) 42 14 14 14.
Website: www.marseille.aeroport.fr

Marseille Provence Airport is located 25km (16 miles) north of Marseilles, in Marignane. The airport is the fourth airport in France for passenger traffic, with 5.3 million passengers per year. It is home to some 25 regular airlines, with connections to 83 cities in 32 countries.

Major airlines: Air France is the national carrier (tel: 0820 820 820; website: www.airfrance.fr). The airport is also served by Alitalia, British Airways, CSA, easyjet, Iberia KLM and Lufthansa, among others.

Approximate flight times to Marseilles: From London is 2 hours; from New York is 11 hours; from Los Angeles is 20 hours; from Toronto is 13 hours; from Sydney is 24 hours and from Paris Orly is 50 minutes. (All flights are via Paris, from London.)

Airport facilities: There is a bank and several ATMs, as well as a post office. Cafes, restaurants and newsagents can be found in both terminals. Duty-free shopping is available in the International Terminal, as well as a range of other shops, some selling regional produce. Left-luggage facilities are available. There is a Business Centre (tel: (04) 42 14 27 74) in Hall 4 of the Domestic Terminal.

Transport to the city: There are shuttle buses (tel: (04) 42 14 31 27) to Marseille St Charles train station (journey time – 30 minutes). Taxis are available 24 hours a day and can be ordered in advance (tel: (04) 42 14 24 44; website: www.taxis-aeroport.com).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Motorways (autoroutes) bear the prefix ‘A’, national roads ‘N’ and minor roads (départementales) are classed as ‘D’ roads. Traffic drives on the right and drivers must give way to the right, unless the route is marked with 'passage protégé' signs (a broad arrow, a yellow diamond or an ‘X’ on a triangular background) or if the driver is at a roundabout indicating ‘Vous n’avez pas la priorité’. Tolls (péages) are enforced. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways (110kph (68mph) when raining), 110kph (68mph) on dual carriageways separated by a central reservation, 90kph (56mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn by all passengers (front and rear). Children under 10 may not travel in the front seat. A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times. All headlamp beams must be adjusted for right-side driving, by use of beam deflectors or by tilting the headlamp bulb-holder. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover in France. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy.

Autoroutes du Sud de la France – ASF (tel: (04) 9032 9005; website: www.asf.fr) is responsible for the southern France motorway network and produces free maps with information in English. The motorway network number (tel: (04) 91 78 78 78) provides information on traffic conditions and driving regulations in southeastern France. Information is also available from Autoroutel (tel: (08) 92 70 70 01). Traffic conditions are broadcast on RadioTrafic 107.7FM. Emergency telephones linked up to the police are located every 2km (1.2 miles) on each side of the motorway.

Emergency breakdown service:
Garage du Pharo (04) 91 59 40 40 (24hours/day, seven days a week)

If you need an ambulance, use the orange SOS phones which are situated every 2km on motorways and every 4km on dual carriageways and other major roads. Or dial 15 from a normal phone. You must also call the police (dial 17).

Routes to the city: Three motorways connecting Spain, Italy and Northern Europe come together at Marseilles: the A7 goes to the north (for Aix and Lyon), the A55 to the west (for Fos, Martigues, Monpellier and Barcelona) and the A50 to the east (for Cassis, Toulon, Nice and Genoa). The Prado Carénage Tunnel connects the north coastline motorway (A55) to the east motorway (A50).

Approximate driving times to Marseilles: From Avignon – 1 hour; Barcelona – 4 hours; Paris – 7 hours.

Coach services: The Coach Station, place Victor Hugo, 3e (tel: (04) 91 08 16 40) is located right by the train station.

Getting There By Rail

Societé Nationale de Chemins de Fer – SNCF (tel: (08) 92 35 35 35; website: www.sncf.fr) is the national rail carrier. There are some 200 trains calling at Marseilles daily, including 15 trains to Paris. Generally, trains are on time. As throughout France, train tickets must be validated prior to boarding.

The train station, Gare St Charles (tel: (08) 92 35 35 35 or 91 67 68 69), is the hub for regional and national rail travel.

Rail services: The recent extension of the TGV line brought Marseilles within 3 hours of Paris, from where services connect to Lille, Nantes, Rouen, Brussels and Geneva, as well as London with the Eurostar (tel: (0)8705 186 186 (UK number), or +44 12336 17575 (from outside the UK); website: www.eurostar.com) (journey time – 8 hours). Regional trains serve Avignon, Nice, Toulon, Cannes and many other towns on the coast and inland.

Transport to the city: both lines of the metro stop at the Gare St Charles: the Vieux Port is two stops away on the blue line.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Régie des Transports de Marseille (RTM) (tel: (04) 91 91 92 10; website: www.rtm.fr)
provides public transport throughout the city and some of the suburbs. There are two metro lines (blue and red) and over 80 bus lines. The metro runs from 0500 until 2100 every day and from 0500 until 1230 from Friday to Sunday and when there is a football match at the Velodrome Stadium. Buses run from around 0500 until 2100 every day, consult the RTM website (above) for exact timetables for various bus routes.

Major roadworks are currently under way to build a new tram system, which will become operational in 2006.

Tickets can be bought in any metro station, at the RTM office on 6 rue des Fabres, or any shop displaying the RTM sign in their window.

Day passes are available, as well as the Carte Liberté, valid for five to 10 trips. Tickets have to be validated, or you might incur an on the spot fine. You can travel on the same ticket for up to one hour. After that, another ticket must be validated.

Taxis
Major taxi providers include Taxi Blanc Bleu (tel: (04) 91 51 50 50), Taxis Plus (tel: (04) 91 03 60 03), Taxi Radio Marseille (tel: (04) 91 02 20 20) and Taxi Tupp Radio (tel: (04) 91 50 37 93). Tips are welcome but not expected.

Driving in the City
Parking in Marseilles has always been a problem, especially in some of the ‘quartiers’ where narrow streets are the norm, and over the past few years this has become even more of a headache, so the advice is to leave the car behind if you can. The city centre is compact enough to explore on foot, and public transports links are good.

To make matters worse, major roadworks are currently under way to build a new tram system, so traffic disruptions are unavoidable until completion (scheduled for 2007). For more information, log onto www.metro-tramway-marseille.com (French only).

Driving in Marseilles (as anywhere else in the south) can be a nerve-racking experience, as drivers do not always abide by the Highway Code and have their own take on right of way. The use of the horn is also popular. Take it all in your stride if you are behind the wheel& it’s all part of the local colour.

Car Hire
The minimum age to hire a car varies from 21 to 25 years. Drivers must possess a national driving licence, which they must have held for at least one year. Third party insurance is mandatory for driving in France and this should be covered in the hire price. Additional insurance is optional.

Providers in the city centre include Ada (tel: (04) 91 21 62 16; website: www.ada-location.fr), Avis (tel: (04) 91 64 71 00; website: www.avis.fr), Budget (tel: (04) 91 64 40 03; website: www.budget.com), Europcar (tel: (04) 91 17 53 00; website: www.europcar.fr), Hertz (tel: (04) 91 79 22 06; website: www.hertz.com), Midas (tel: (04) 91 48 06 60; website: www.midas.fr), National (tel: (04) 91 83 05 05; website: www.citer.fr) and Thrifty (tel: (04) 91 95 00 00; website: www.thrifty12.com). With the exception of Midas, all of the above have desks at the airport. So does Sixt (tel: (04) 42 14 35 30; website: www.sixt.fr).

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Holiday Bikes, 129 cours Lieutaud, 6e (tel: (04) 91 92 76 04; website: www.holiday-bikes.com) hires out motorbikes, scooters and bicycles. A similar service is provided by Cycles Do, 72 cours Lieutaud, 6e (tel: (04) 91 54 33 14).

Business

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Marseilles' history has always been closely linked to the sea, and likewise many of its sights, from the obvious starting point of the Vieux Port, Marseilles' old port, to Notre Dame de la Garde (the church offering protection to sailors and fishermen) high on the hill overlooking the city, have some kind of connection to it. La Corniche and Les Plages (the beaches) near the Prado are popular, and for a bit of history and culture a walk through le Panier area (the oldest part of town) and a visit to the Vieille Charité are a must. If the sun gets too much, there are several museums worth checking out, and the beautiful Abbaye St Victor too.

Tourist Information
Office du Tourisme
4 La Canebière, 1e
Tel: (04) 91 13 89 00. Fax: (04) 91 13 89 20.
E-mail: info@marseille-tourisme.com
Website: www.marseille-tourisme.com
Opening times: Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun and bank holidays 1000-1700.

The tourist office has a good selection of leaflets in English covering the major places of interest in Marseilles and the surrounding areas, as well as maps. There is another, smaller tourist office just opposite La Vieille Charité, in Le Panier district.

Comité Départemental du Tourisme
Le Montesquieu, 13 rue Roux de Brignoles, 6e
Tel: (04) 91 13 84 13.
Website: www.visitprovence.com

For information on Provence.

Passes
The Marseille City Pass includes free transportation (including a tiny sightseeing train and boat trip to the Chateau d’If), free entry to 14 museums and free guided tours. It is available for one or two days. Passes can be purchased from the tourist office or participating outlets. For more information, call (04) 91 13 89 00/17 or visit www.mairie-marseille.fr/decouvre/discover/visite.htm

Key Attractions

Vieux Port (Old Port)
The Vieux Port, whose 3,000 boats are guarded by Fort St Nicholas and Fort St Jean at the entrance of the harbour, is the heart of Marseilles. On the quai de Rive Neuve, check out La Criée (Marseilles' most famous theatre, built in 1909 on the site of the old fish auction rooms, hence its name) and the Place Thiars, a lively square dotted with dozens of restaurants and bars, the ideal place to meet up for an al fresco evening during the balmy summer months. Then cross the harbour on an old wodden ferry, the oldest of its kind in France (the trip takes just over a couple of minutes) to the other side, quai du Port, to take a peek at the impressive 17th century Hotel de Ville (town hall). Walk back up towards the quai des Belges (this is where the famous fish market takes place in the morning) from where you will have the best view of the Canebière, the most famous street in the city, and the subject of a popular song.

Notre Dame de la Garde
The landmark Romanesque-Byzantine church, towering on the highest point of the city, was built in the 19th century. Affectionately called the Bonne Mère (good mother), the church is topped by a 9m (30-feet) gilded statue of the Virgin, who is said to offer protection to fishermen out at sea (hence all the small ship models offerings hanging in the nave). The site also affords magnificient views of the city spread out at its feet, and of the bay, with the Frioul archipelago in the distance.

Rue Fort du Sanctuaire
Tel: (04) 91 13 40 80.
Free admission.

Le Panier and the Vieille Charité
The maze of narrow streets found in the Quartier du Panier, the oldest part of the city, lead to the Vieille Charité, a pretty set of buildings dating back to the 17th century, originally designed to take in vagrants and orphans (hence the name). Today the complex is an art centre, with two museums (the Mediterranean Archaeology Museum and the Museum of African, Oceanian and Amerindian Art), several art galleries, a café, a restaurant, and a bookshop. There is also an arthouse cinema, Le Mirroir, showing productions not on show anywhere else in town. The chapel, built by Pierre Puget, is in the French baroque style.

2 rue de la Charité, 2e

Mediterranean Archaeology Museum
Tel: (04) 91 14 58 59.
Admission charge.

Museum of African, Oceanian and Amerindian Art
Tel: (04) 91 14 58 38.
Admission charge.

Abbaye de Saint Victor
This beautiful abbey was built in the 5th century on the burial place of Saint Victor, a Roman martyr who had died two centuries previously. The abbey was destroyed several times over the year, until it was fortified by Pope Urban V in the 14th century. Make sure you pay a visit to the beautiful crypt, where every year the faithful gather for Candlemas. The abbey regularly houses concerts of religious music.

Rue de l'Abbaye, 7e
Tel: (04) 96 11 22 60.
Website: www.saintvictor.net (French only)
Free admission.

Musées (Museums)
There are several museums worth visiting in Marseilles. The Musée de la Mode, which has an interesting collection of over 6,000 costumes and accessories; the Musée Cantini, which boasts one of the richest French public collections devoted to 20th century art, including works by Matisse, Miro, Ernst, Bacon, Picasso, Derain and Bathus among many others; the Musée d’Histoire Naturelle and the Musée des Beaux Arts, both housed in the impressive Palais Longchamp; and the nearby Musée Grobet-Labadie, which includes exquisite Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture, as well as an outstanding collection of medieval Burgundian and Provençal sculpture, Gobelin tapestries; paintings; and faience.

Musée de la Mode (Fashion Museum)
11 La Canebiere, 1e
Tél: (04) 91 56 59 57.
Website: www.mairie-marseille.fr/vivre/culture/musees/mode.htm
Admission charge.

Musée Cantini (Cantini Museum)
19, rue Grignan, 7e
Tel: (04) 91 54 77 75.
Admission charge.

Musée d’Histoire Naturelle (National History Museum)
Palais Longchamps, 4e
Tel: (04) 91 14 59 50.
Admission charge.

Musée des Beaux Arts (Fine Arts Museum)
Palais Longchamps, 4e
Tel: (04) 91 14 59 30.
Admission charge.

Musée Grobet-Labadie (Grobet-Labadie Museum)
140 boulevard Longchamp, 1e
Tel: (04) 91 62 21 82.
Admission charge.

La Corniche J F Kennedy et les Plages (The Corniche and the Beaches)
La Corniche is the road that follows the sea, from the Catalans (just behind the Pharo at the entrance to the Vieux Port) to the enormous marble statue of David (a copy of the famous statue by Michelangelo) some 3.5km (2 miles) further east. Keep an eye out for the Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque fishermen’s village nestled in a little creek; a huge portrait of local football hero Zinedine Zidane, as well as several gorgeous private villas, some now housing thalassotherapy centres (see for example www.chateauberger.com), before reaching the Prado beaches, the locals' meeting point for sunbathing and swimming in summer, and walking, jogging and kite flying in winter. The road continues all the way to La Pointe Rouge, where you will find yet more beaches, a little harbour and plenty of surf shops (the area is popular for all kinds of watersports).

Further Distractions

Parc Borély
Half way between Le Prado and the Corniche is the Parc Borély. The parc is a tranquil expanse of greenery complete with a lake with ducks and rowing boats for hire, a botanical garden, a rose garden and even a ‘chateau’. Cycling is allowed in the park, and you can hire bicycles at the entrance gate.

Avenue Borély, 8e

Les Goudes
La Madrague, la Baie des Singes, les Goudes, Callelongue: check out these little fishermen’s villages on the outskirts of Marseilles, picturesque homes to the famous ‘cabanons’ of yore, that haven’t changed in decades.

Le Musée de l’OM
Next to the famous Stade Velodrome, Marseilles' temple to the beautiful game, and the stage for so many of the highs and lows of the local team’s supporters& a museum for footie fans, with plenty of information on the local team, l’OM (Olympique Marseillaise).

3 boulevard Michelet, 8e
Tel: (04) 91 71 47 00.

Le Musée du Vieux Marseille à la Maison Diamantée
Not far from the town hall, and housed in unique building dating back to the 16th century, this museum houses furniture, playing cards, cribs and santons of local Marseilles life in from the 17th to the 19th century.

2 rue de la Prison, 2e
Tel: (04) 91 55 10 19.

Tours of the City

The Office du Tourisme organizes guided walking tours of ‘Marseille Insolite’ focusing on anecdotes and local stories. French only. Thursday only in summer (tel: (04) 91 13 89 00).

The Histobus offers three-hour guided tours that take in the main sights. Commentary in French and English. Daily July to September, Sunday only rest of the year. (tel: (04) 91 13 89 00). Marseille le Grand Tour (tel: (04) 91 91 05 82) provides a hop on, hop off service on an open top double decker that takes in 16 stops, including le Vieux Port, la Corniche, Stade Vel and the Bonne Mère. Recorded commentary in several languages, including English. Available year round.

The Office du Tourisme has the timetable of the Petit Train de la Bonne Mère. Taxi Tourisme Marseille (tel: (04) 91 13 89 00) offers four daily tours, lasting from 90 minutes to 4 hours, for sightseeing in the comfort of your own taxi. More information from the tourist office.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Le Chateau d’If and le Frioul
Boats leave every half hour from Vieux-Port to If, some 3km (2 miles) off the coast. François I discovered the rocky island in 1516 and had a fortress built there, which soon became an infamous prison for galley slaves and ruffians, then thousands of Huguenot prisoners. Its most famous inmate, in fiction, was Alexandre Dumas' Count of Monte Cristo. It is an impressively bleak spot which commands great views of Marseilles. The Frioul (once an independent republic) is bigger and has bars, restaurants and shops. Take a hike to the Hopital Caroline, a disused hospital that was used during the plague epidemic in 1720. Allow one day if visiting both islands. There are several daily departures from the quai des Belges on the Vieux Port.

For a Whole Day

Cassis and the Calanques
The Calanques, just outside Marseilles, are a postcard perfect picture of turquoise waters, steep limestone cliffs falling abruptly into the sea, typical guarrigue vegetation and secluded coves and creeks. Add to this the smell of pine trees and the sound of cicadas and you might be forgiven for thinking you’ve found paradise on earth. The area is ideal for swimming and hiking (but beware it can get terribly hot in summer, so make sure you’ve got plenty of water with you, and apply sun cream regularly and generously), and is popular with climbers and divers. Check out Sormiou, Morgiou, En Vau or the more upmarket town of Cassis, which has plenty of restaurants and cafés for the weary hiker. For more info, maps etc. go to www.calanques.info

Aix en Provence: A thriving university town that has managed to keep a very Provencal atmosphere, Aix has been as popular with artists (Paul Cézanne and Emile Zola lived here, to mention but a couple of them) as with tourists, who never fail to marvel at the very civilized pace of life here. Sit at a café on the Cours Mirabeau (Aix’s main street) and just watch life go by for a while before exploring the maze of little streets in the old part of town. For more information www.visitprovence.com

Sport

Shopping

The main shopping streets (the rue Paradis, rue Saint Ferréol and rue de Rome) run off the Canebière, just to the north of the Office du Tourisme. The Centre Bourse, just behind the Old Port, has a shopping mall above the underground car park.

There are several markets in Marseilles. One not to miss is the fish market (daily 0730-1230) on the quai des Belges, on the Vieux Port, a real spectacle as local fishermen compete with one another to sell their catches to passers-by. For something completely different, try ‘les Puces’ (the flea market), a cross between a north African bazaar and a car boot sale (and a few antiques thrown in for good measure), one of the liveliest places to find yourself on Saturday or Sunday morning. 130 chemin de la Madrague Ville, 15e (tel: (04) 91 63 36 39), Tues-Sat 0800-1200 and 1400-1800, Sun 0830-1300.

Popular items to bring back home include soap (the famous ‘savon de Marseille’); santons, or carved wooden or clay crèche figurines (in December, you will be able to buy some at the marché aux santons on the Canebiere. Otherwise, the Ateliers Marcel Carbonel, 47 rue Neuve-Ste-Catherine, 7e, offers the widest choice in town); Pastis (Marseille’s tipple, famous the world over); garlic (a key ingredient in Provencal cooking) and Provencal fabric and pottery. Last but not least some navettes, delicious orange-zest flavoured biscuits whose shape is supposed to represent the small boats on which ‘les Saintes’ came over to the Provence coast. The only place to buy them is at Le Four des Navettes, 136 rue Sainte, 7e.

Shops are open 0800-1200 and 1400-1900, although some remain open at lunchtime. Most shops are closed on Sunday. VAT stands at 17.5%.

Culture

La Provence is the local daily paper and it has listings for films, events, etc. (website: www.laprovence-presse.fr). Also try La Marseillaise (website: www.lamarseillaise.fr).

Good online guides with events listings include www.bestofprovence.com and www.tout-marseille.com

To buy tickets for events online try La Fnac (website: www.fnac.com), Virgin (tel: (04) 91 55 84 11), Billetel (tel: 0892 692 694) or Ticketnet (tel: 0892 390 100; www.ticketnet.fr). Tickets are also often available directly at the venue.

Music: The Opera de Marseille, 2 rue Moliere, 1e (tel: (04) 91 55 14 99 or 91 55 21 07, 91 55 11 10 for tickets) is the main venue for classical music and opera. Big rock and pop concerts take place at Le Dome, 48, Avenue de Saint-Just, 4e, or at the Palais des Sports, 81 rue Raymond Teisseire, 9e, sometimes also at the Stade Vélodrome, Boulevard Michelet, 8e, one of the venues for the 1998 World Cup. Le Moulin, 47 boulevard Perrin, 13e (tel: (04) 91 06 33 94) is a popular small venue hosting big names.

Lots of theatres, such as the Théatre Toursky (see below) and churches (see Abbaye de St Victor in Key Attractions) also have recitals and gigs. La Friche la Belle de Mai, 41 rue Jobin (tel: (04) 95 04 95 04; website: www.lafriche.org), a former squat in a disused factory complex, has become a thriving alternative cultural centre featuring concerts of all kinds, exhibition, theatre etc. It is well worth checking out too. So is Dock des Suds, 12 rue Urbain V (tel: (04) 91 99 00 00; website: www.dock-des-suds.org), a very ‘in’ venue which hosts a variety of events throughout the year.

Theatre: The Théatre National de la Criée, 30 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e (tel: (04) 96 17 80 00; website: www.theatre-lacriee.com) is the main theatre in Marseilles, showcasing a wide variety of productions, but there are plenty of other theatres throughout the city, including La Minoterie, 9-11 rue d’Ozier, 2e (tel: (04) 91 90 07 94; website: www.minoterie.org); Théatre Toursky, 16 passage Leo Férré, 3e (tel: (04) 91 02 58 35; website: www.toursky.org); Théatre Off, 9 rue Nau, 6e (tel: (04) 91 33 12 92; website: www.theatre.offcaramail.com); Théatre du Merlan, avenue Raimu BP 153, 14e (tel: (04) 91 11 19 20; www.theatre-merlan.org) and Théatre du Gymnase, 4 rue du Theatre Francais (tel: (04) 91 24 35 24). Small local theatres like La Baleine qui dit ‘vagues’, 48 rue Barbaroux, 1e (tel: (04) 91 48 95 60; website: www.labaleinequiditvagues.com) and the Chocolat Théatre, 59 cours Julien (tel: (04) 91 42 19 29) also put on interesting plays, some for children.

Dance: The Ballet National de Marseille (tel: (04) 91 32 72 72; website: www.ballet-de-marseille.com) performs at the Opera de Marseille (see Music).

Film: Cinemas in the centre of town include UGC Capitole, 134, La Canebière, 1e (tel: 0836 68 68 58); Pathé Madeleine, 36, avenue Foch, 4e (tel: 0836 68 20 22); Cinema Le Prado, 36, avenue du Prado , 6e (tel: (04) 91 37 67 13), Le Chambord, 283, avenue du Prado, 8e (tel: (04) 91 25 71 11) and Le César, 4, place Castellane, 6e (tel: (04) 91 37 12 80), all showcasing mainstream movies. For arthouse cinemas, try Les Variétés, 37, rue Vincent Scotto, 1e and Le Mirroir, a real gem in the Vieille Charité (tel: (04) 91 14 58 88), which showcases little known movies from around the world.

Too many movies have been shot in Marseilles over the years to list them all here. Two of the most famous are, maybe not surprisingly, gangster movies: Borsalino (1970), with Alain Delon and Jean Paul Belmondo, two of the most famous French actors ever, and The French Connection (1971), with Gene Hackman. Both brought the city some fame, if not exactly the kind it needed to help its reputation. The movies that really put Marseilles on the map, though (at least for the French) is the famous Marcel Pagnol’s trilogy, La Trilogie Marseillaise, which includes Marius, Fanny and Cesar (all shot in the 1930s). So did Marius et Jeannette (1997). Acclaimed director Bertrand Blier shot two of his movies in Marseille, Trop Belle Pour Toi (1989), a comedy starring Gérard Depardieu, Carole Bouquet and Josiane Balasko, followed a few years later by 1,2,3 Soleil, with Anouk Grinberg and Marcello Mastroiani. More recently, The Chateau d’If has been the setting for many a movie inspired by Alexandre Dumas’s The Count of Monte Cristo novel, including The Man in the Iron Mask, starring Leonardo di Caprio (1998), and The Count of Monte Cristo (2002), with Jim Caviezel and Guy Pearce.

Literary Notes: Marcel Pagnol’s famous trilogy, Cesar, Marius and Fanny, which takes place on the quays of the Vieux Port, is a nostalgic portrayal of a friendly, colourful city, in keeping with descriptions of the city by other Provencal authors such as Fredéric Mistral or Alphonse Daudet. But others, such as Alexandre Dumas, Prosper Merimée or Emile Zola (in Les Mysteres de Marseille, written in the 1860s), were fascinated by the violence and the mystery surrounding the Provencal capital, and the picture they paint of it is not such a rosy one. For them, Marseilles was very much the gate to the East it was for Albert Camus. Also worth mentioning are the creative mysticism of Jean Giono and the current trend which uses this melting pot the Phocean city is as a background for ‘roman noir’, as exemplified by Patrick Cauvin and Jean Claude Izzo.

Nightlife

Marseilles has a dynamic live music and club scene. Check out Sortir, every Wednesday in La Provence (website: www.laprovence-presse.fr), the local daily paper, for listings. Also worth buying is l’Officiel des Loisirs, out every Wednesday too. Otherwise Vox Mag is a free fortnightly publication with listings, available from La Fnac, Virgin and many venues.

Good online guides with events listings include www.bestofprovence.com and www.tout-marseille.com

The best areas for nightlife in Marseilles are the Vieux Port and Place Thiars, and the Escale Borély, a relatively new waterfront development south of the town center (a 20 minute ride on the bus no 83), right by the sea. Also worth checking out is Le Cours Julien, a square lined with cafes and restaurants in the La Plaine area.

Bars: Many bars in Marseilles are also ‘glaciers’ (ice cream parlours). In fact, going out for an ice-cream is almost as popular as going out for a drink, at least in the hot summer months. For an aperitif head for the Bar de la Marine, 15 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e, made famous by local author Marcel Pagnol. Le Suffren, quai des Belges, 6e, is one of the many other bars overlooking the Vieux Port, perfect for people watching and especially pleasant at sunset. Le Café de la Plage, Escale Borély, avenue Pierre Mendés, 8e, is a swanky cocktail bar facing the sea near the Prado beaches, popular with a hip young surfer crowd. Le Manureva, 1 avenue de la Pointe-Rouge, 8e, is an ultra trendy bar in the chic part of town (it’s decorated like a luxury yacht inside), ideal for a pre-club drink or two. Homesick visitors can try the Red Lion, 231 avenue Pierre de Mendes France, 8e
(website: www.pubredlion.com) for some draught beer, English speaking staff and some fish and chips. MP Bar, 10 rue Beauveau, 1e is the most popular of Marseilles’ gay bars, open from early evening until sunrise. Bars a vin (wine bars) are popular at the moment. Try Le Bistrot a Vin, 17 rue Sainte, 1e.

Casino: There are no casinos in Marseilles.

Clubs: Le Trolleybus, 22-24, quai de Rive Neuve, 7e (website: http://letrolley.com) has been going strong for years and is still one of the most popular clubs in Marseilles, with techno, house, hip-hop, jazz, and salsa, depending on the day of the week. The Café de la Plage, Escale Borély, avenue Mendès-France, 8e, is where all the trendy young things strut their stuff& it offers dancing and karaoke with popular music selections. The New Cancan (3 rue Senac, 1e) is the city’s largest gay-friendly club, while Le Millenium, route de Cassis, 9e, is one of the biggest clubs in town, and plays mainly house music. La Maronaise, Anse Croisettes, Les Goudes, 8e, is frequented by some of Marseilles’ beau monde (including well-known soccer players and television personalities) who come here to enjoy the amazing view and the impressive seawater pool (open Apr-Oct only). Entry to some nightclubs very much depends on the whim of the bouncers on the day, but dressing the part helps, so make an effort.

Live Music: check out Espace Julien, 39 cours Julien, 6e (website: www.espace-julien.com), for everything from French music to jazz to hip hop and local talent; Dock des Suds, 12, rue Urbain V, 2e (website: www.dock-des-suds.org) for world music, and Friche Belle de Mai, 23 rue Guibal, 3e (website: www.lafriche.org). Pêle-Mêle, 8 place aux Huiles 1e, is a many-faceted bar/disco/cafe that occasionally hosts live music. The Cite de la Musique (Auditorium), 4 rue Bernard du Bois, 1e (website: www.citemusique-marseille.com) (also Bastide de la Magalone, 245 bis, boulevard Michelet) is the home of several local music associations and features concerts of all kinds, from jazz to baroque music. La Cave à Jazz, rue Bernard-du-Bois, 1e, is, as its name indicates, the place to go for jazz music.

City Statistics

Location: Department of the Bouches du Rhone, Provence region, southern France.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 807,000 (city); 1,200,000 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 7°C (45°F).
Average July temp: 25°C (77°F).
Annual rainfall: 550mm (21 inches).

Special Events

Fête de la Chandeleur, Candelmas celebrations, Feb, Abbaye de St Victor
Carnaval de Marseille, March, Vieux Port
Semaine Nautique Internationale de Marseille, Watersports event, Apr, Marseilles’ Bay
Foire a l’Ail, Garlic fair, Jun, Cours Belsunce and Canebiere
Festival de Musique Sacrée, church music, various churches
Fête de la Musique, Jun, free concerts, throughout the city
Fête du Panier, local celebrations, Jun, Le Panier
Festival de Marseille, Jul, cultural events throughout the city
Bastille Day, 14 Jul, fireworks over the Old Port
Mondial de Pétanque, petanque tournament, Jul, throughout the city
Fête du Vent, kite flying and other wind related events, Sep, various beaches
Journée Nationale du Patrimoine, heritage day, Sep, various venues
Foire Internationale de Marseille, Sep, Parc Chanot
Semi-marathon Marseille Cassis, running event, Oct, leave from Parc Chanot
Fiesta des Suds, world music festival, Dock des Suds
Foire aux Santons (traditional clay figurine fair) and Christmas Market, Nov/Dec, La Canebiere
Crêches et Pastorales, nativity scenes, Dec, various venues

Cost of Living

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005