World City Guide

Nightlife

The party animal will not be disappointed by Mumbai. The city reckons itself to be the capital of Indian nightlife. Certainly, the bars and clubs offer enough variety to satisfy even the most jaded palate. Colaba and south Mumbai used to be the centre of the city’s nightlife, but recently competing clubs and lounges (an Indian hybrid of a bar and a club) have started opening in the suburbs. The prevailing atmosphere is informal (a jacket and tie is almost never required) but Mumbaikers like to be well turned-out and the atmosphere of some establishments is decidedly chic. Many bars and clubs operate a couples-only policy, for members and non-members alike, and charge an entrance fee.

The most popular drinks are beer and spirits (particularly whisky) rather than imported wine, which is relatively expensive and often of indifferent quality, although Indian wine is now better made and more widely available than ever before. Drink prices vary considerably depending on the venue: a bottle of beer in a humble bar costs around Rs100, while in an expensive bar or hotel bar, the price will more likely be in the region of Rs250-400. Licensing hours appear to vary and the legal minimum drinking age is 21 years. Five-star hotels have an extension to enable them to sell alcohol until 0030 and many of the larger international hotels have a nightclub on the premises as well.

Time Out is published fortnightly and is available from news stands. It carries listings on many, if not all, aspects of having fun in Mumbai.

Bars: Indigo, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bunder, was the original Mumbai bar-restaurant and, despite having spawned numerous imitators, its minimalist decor still attracts a smartly turned-out set. Geoffrey’s, in the Hotel Marine Plaza (itself a fine example of Art Deco architecture well worth visiting), is the best-known English-style pub in Mumbai. Geoffrey’s stays open until 0100, and serves a good set-price lunch. Tendulkar’s, near Regal, is a sports bar and restaurant, where one can watch televised sport and drink. Leopold, Colaba Causeway, near Regal, sells inexpensive beer and good snacks; it is popular with backpackers. The Olive Bar and Kitchen, 14 Union Park, in the fashionable northern suburb of Juhu, is a trendy bar and restaurant, which serves food until 0200. All the five-star hotels have bars. where one can drink in air-conditioned and pricey seclusion.

Casinos: There are no casinos in Mumbai, as gambling is illegal in India, except on the racecourse.

Clubs: In the past, the best nightclubs in Mumbai were to be found in the five-star hotels; this is no longer necessarily the case as new places are opening all the time. There is now a dazzling array of nightclubs (known variously as clubs, bars or lounges) on offer in Mumbai. Athena, 41/44 Minoo Desai Marg, now the smartest club in Colaba, also hosts first nights and launch parties. For younger revelers, Lush and the Provogue Lounge in the unpromising environs of the Phoenix Mills Compound, Lower Parel, offer a lively alternative. Cafe Sesso, in The Courtyard, Minoo Desai Road, has a club night on Wednesdays when one can sit under the stars drinking wine and listening to music. Of the nightclubs in the international hotels, the Library, in the Taj President, 90 Cuffe Parade, boasts a lively bar and live music with free entry. In the northern suburbs, the Leela Hotel at Sahar (near the airport) has Zaha.

Live Music: Not Just Jazz by the Bay, Soona Mahal, 143 Marine Drive, is the only remaining bar for live music in the city centre. It has a varied programme of live music; it also stages karaoke nights and on some nights features Indian music.