World City Guide

Located to the north of the Bavarian Alps, on the River Isar, Munich (München) is a city that combines proud provincialism with international glamour. Founded by Duke Henry the Lion, in 1158, within a century, the city had become the seat of the Wittelsbach dynasty, who ruled the duchy, electorate and kingdom of Bavaria until the end of World War I. Their influence is evident in the concentration of grand Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neo-classical architecture adorning Munich’s streets. Perhaps most importantly, the Wittelsbach’s patronage of the arts and extensive collections provided the basis for Munich’s world-class museums and galleries.

The city acquired the name München (‘home of the monks’) from its first monastery, founded in the eighth century. Monasteries have since played an important role in the history of the city, not least by starting the beer brewing traditions for which the city has received worldwide renown. Successive rulers, detecting a profitable source of tax revenue, actively encouraged beer production as a means both of raising money and keeping the populace happy at the same time. Following recent mergers, the city’s six breweries have been reduced to four – Augustiner, Hofbräuhaus, Paulaner (who now own Hacker-Pschorr) and the merged Spaten-Löwenbräu. Beer quality is still based on the Reinheitsgebot (Purity Edict), introduced by the Bavarian Duke Wilhelm IV, in 1516, which forbids the use of anything other than the core ingredients of barley, hops and water in the brewing process. Drinking a foaming Mass of beer in one of the city’s beer halls or gardens is an essential part of the Munich experience.

The period between the wars represents the low point in Munich’s history and tends to be glossed over by tourist brochures. The city was the cradle of the Nazi movement after World War I and was the scene of Hitler’s first attempt to seize power – the infamous ‘Beer Hall Putsch’ on 8 November 1923. Moreover, in 1938, the treaty that surrendered a large portion of Czechoslovakia to the Nazis was signed by Germany, Great Britain, France and Italy in Munich – an act of appeasement that started the slide towards World War II. The city suffered intensive bombing damage during Allied air raids at the end of the war but the economic success of the post-war years has supported a comprehensive rebuilding and restoration programme, making the city the one of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany.

The citizens of Munich demonstrate a cosmopolitan refinement as well as genuine passion for the region’s many traditions and tourists flock to the city for the world famous Oktoberfest, to indulge in an orgy of beer and revelry. The stereotypical images of lederhosen-clad Bavarians quaffing vast portions of beer and sausage might apply at this time, however, with a strong cultural scene, richly endowed art collections and excellent shopping, the city certainly has more to offer than just light entertainment. With warm summers accommodating lovely garden restaurants and open-air stages and snowy winters with romantic Christmas markets, Munich is a place to visit all year round.

Getting There By Air

Flughafen München Franz Joseph Strauss – Munich International Airport (MUC)
Tel: (089) 97500 or 9752 1313 (24-hour flight information).
Website: www.munich-airport.de

The airport is located 28km (17 miles) northeast of the city centre and is Germany’s most important international gateway, after Frankfurt. Approximately 200 destinations are served by scheduled and charter flights.

Approximate flight times to Munich: From London is 1 hour 45 minutes; from New York is 7 hours 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is 21 hours 55 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include banks, bureaux de change, tourist information, an automated hotel reservation service, a 24-hour medical emergency centre, pharmacy, post office, duty-free and other shops, bars, restaurants and executive lounges. Car hire is available from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National and Sixt. Business facilities are available.

Transport to the city: Autobus Oberbayern (tel: (089) 323 040; website: www.autobusoberbayern.de) operates a bus service to Munich Hauptbahnhof (central station, journey time – 45 minutes). During large exhibitions, another service runs to the Messe München and is free with a valid exhibition entry ticket. MVV (tel: (089) 210 330; website: www.mvv-muenchen.de) commuter trains S1 and S8 run daily to various stops, including Munich Hauptbahnhof (journey time – 40 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Germany is covered by an excellent and extensive system of major ‘B’ roads and Autobahnen (motorways) or ‘A’ roads. Generally, there are no speed limits on Autobahnen but individually marked speed limits appear on a large percentage of motorway miles. A maximum of 130kph (81mph) is recommended. Speed limits of 130kph (81mph) or 100kph (62mph) apply outside built-up areas and 50kph (30mph) in towns. Traffic drives on the right. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 are forbidden to travel in the front seat without a child restraint. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Foreign drivers require proof of insurance and their national driving licence – a Green Card is strongly recommended. A country identification sticker must be displayed on the vehicle.

In Munich, Mitfahrzentralen (agencies that link motorists with travellers heading for the same destination) include Citynetz Mitfahrzentrale, Adalbertstrasse 10 (tel: (089) 19444; website: www.citynetz-mitfahrzentrale.de) and Mitfahrzentrale Hauptbahnhof, Lämmerstrasse 4-6 (tel: (089) 19440).

General information on travelling by car in Germany can be obtained from the Allgemeine Deutsche Automobil Club – ADAC (tel: (0180) 510 1112); website: www.adac.de).

Emergency breakdown service:
ADAC (0180) 222 2222

Routes to the city: The A9 runs south to Munich from Berlin via Würzburg and Nuremberg, the A92 from Passau enters the city from the northeast, while the A96 from Lindau is to the west, connecting with the A1 to Zurich. From the Alps, the main route is the A95. From Salzburg, the A8 heads northwest via Munich towards Ulm, Stuttgart and Karlsruhe, where it connects with the A5 to Frankfurt. Motorways from all directions converge on the Mittlerer Ring (middle ring road).

Approximate driving times to Munich: From Salzburg – 1 hour 40 minutes; Zurich – 3 hours 30 minutes; Frankfurt – 4 hours 10 minutes.

Coach services: Deutsche Touring GmbH (tel: (089) 8898 9513; website: www.deutsche-touring.com) operates international Eurolines services between Munich and numerous European destinations. Coaches depart from Munich Hauptbahnhof, Bahnhofsplatz 2. Tickets are available for purchase at the station or on the bus.

Getting There By Rail

Deutsche Bahn – DB (Tel: (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de) is the national service provider. Germany’s rail network is modern, extensive and highly efficient. National and international services include high-speed InterCityExpress (ICE) trains, which run between major cities in Germany and further afield, InterCity (IC) and EuroCity (EC) trains, which serve cities in Germany and Europe respectively, and InterRegio trains, which link different regions of the country. DB offers a number of rail passes, including the Bayern-Ticket, valid for one day’s travel on local trains throughout Bavaria and on the MVV public transport system.

Munich Hauptbahnhof (central station) is situated at Bahnhofsplatz 2, in the centre of the city. For national rail enquiries, DB has a service hotline (tel: 11861, for general enquiries, or (0800) 150 7090, for recorded timetable information). Information on pan-European rail travel is available in English from the EurAide office (tel: (089) 593 889; website: www.euraide.com), in room three, along platform 11. Facilities at the station are extensive and include a hotel, shops, travel bureaux, left luggage, cafés, restaurants, bicycle hire, a children’s museum, Internet café, showers, a pharmacy, hairdressers, bureau de change, newsagents, a bank, chapel and first aid.

Rail services: There is an ICE service daily, from Dortmund via Düsseldorf, Cologne and Mannheim, from Hamburg via Hanover and Kassel, as well as from Berlin via Frankfurt and Stuttgart or via Nuremberg. The ICE-Sprinter between Frankfurt and Munich takes 3 hours 33 minutes. A sleeper service, the InterCityNight (ICN), runs between Munich and Berlin or Hamburg (journey time – 8 hours). InterRegio trains run from Dresden to Munich. International services arrive from Salzburg, Lindau and Venice, via Innsbruck (journey time – 7 hours). The fastest EC service to/from Paris takes 8 hours 30 minutes.

Transport to the city: Munich Hauptbahnhof is at the heart of the urban transport network, with connections to most U-Bahn lines, all S-Bahn lines and several bus and tram lines. Taxis are also plentiful outside the station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The comprehensive transport network is run by the Münchener Verkehrs- und Tarifverbund GmbH – MVV, Thierschstrasse 2 (tel: (089) 210 330; website: www.mvv-muenchen.de). This consists of an integrated system of 20 Strassenbahn (tram) lines, more than 80 bus lines, 8 U-Bahn (underground) lines and 8 S-Bahn (suburban train) lines. The area covered by the MVV is divided into concentric zones.

All transport runs daily 0500-0100, with additional hourly services on night buses and trams 0100-0500. Tickets are available for purchase from blue ticket machines marked with the MVV logo and from other ticket outlets. Tickets must be validated in blue Entwerter machines, marked with the letter ‘E’, upon boarding – except on new trams, for which pre-validated tickets are available.

One-day and three-day passes are available and up to 5 adults travelling together can save money by buying group tickets (Partner Tickets).

Taxis
Taxis are usually beige Mercedes and can be safely hailed on the street. Taxi-München (tel: (089) 21610 or 19410) is the central dispatching service. A tip of 5-10% is common practice.

Driving in the City
Traffic can be heavy, particularly during rush hour (roughly 0700-0900 and 1600-1800) and parking is often problematic. Drivers should note that trams always have priority in the city, although driving on their tracks is permissible and usually unavoidable. Buses have priority when leaving stops.

The most useful car parks include those at Karlsplatz, particularly towards Munich Hauptbahnhof, and at Färbergraben, just south of the pedestrianised Kaufingerstrasse.

Car Hire
Drivers need to be at least 21 years old to hire a category one car. Nevertheless, small cars, such as a Smart car, can be hired at 18 years. Insurance in Germany is mandatory and drivers must hold a valid national driving licence.

There are numerous car hire firms, both at the airport and in the city. Central locations of representative major providers, with late hours, include Hertz, Bahnhofsplatz 2 (tel: (089) 550 2256; website: www.hertz.de), and Avis, Im Hauptbahnhof (tel: (089) 550 2251/2; website: www.avis.de). Autoverleih Sander, Leopoldstrasse 107 (tel: (089) 348 046; website: www.sander-autoverleih.de) is a local alternative.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Call A Bike (tel: (0700) 0522 5522; website: www.callabike.de), operated by DB, has bikes spread over Munich. By calling the number (above), a credit card account is set up, which enables customers to release the electronically locked bike by inputting a pin code. When finished, the cyclist returns the bike to a bike rack, which are situated near any major intersection. The appropriate fee is then deducted from the credit card. Once an account and pin code are set up, any available bike can be used at any time.

Bikes can be hired in the ordinary way for ¬17 per day, from May to October, at Radius Touristik, in Munich Hauptbahnhof, opposite platform 32 (tel: (089) 596 113; website: www.radiusmunich.com). The company also offers maps and advice and can organise tours if reserved beforehand. Spurwechsel, Sankt-Martin-Strasse 9 (tel: (089) 692 4699; website: www.spurwechsel-muenchen.de), also hires out bicycles. Allround Auto- und Motorradvermietung GmbH, Boschetsriederstrasse 12 (tel: (089) 723 2343; website: www.allroundrent.de), hires out cars, motorbikes and scooters.

Business

Business Etiquette
Business hours are Monday to Friday 0900-1800 and, although rarely, Saturday 0900-1400. Some offices close early on Fridays, at 1400. Punctuality is absolutely essential in Germany and although Bavarians may appear more relaxed than their northern counterparts, they will regard lateness as rude and incompetent. A smart appearance is also important and it is wise for business travellers to enquire as to the dress code if socialising with business contacts outside work.

The usual greeting in both business and social settings is a firm handshake. Business contacts should be addressed by their surname, prefixed by Herr for a man or Frau for a woman. Where applicable, academic titles should always be used (eg Herr Doktor). Germans are known for straight talking and they will expect business counterparts from other countries to be similarly direct. In some circumstances, instead of showing approval with applause, Bavarian businessmen and women may rap their knuckles on the table instead.

Business may be conducted in a social setting although usually only with well acquainted business contacts. Germans rarely invite business associates to their homes. In a social situation, one should always wait for the host to initiate business discussions. Lunch meetings, often with alcohol, are most favoured. Visitors should remember that when drinking beer, the common toast is ‘Prost’, while with wine it is the more genteel version, ‘Zum Wohl’.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Marienplatz, where the main pedestrianised streets converge, is the undisputed centre of the city. Weinstrasse, which becomes Theatinerstrasse, runs north from Marienplatz to Odeonsplatz, while Kaufinger Strasse/NeuhauserstrasseStrasse, which becomes Neuhauserstrasse, runs west to Karlsplatz – known locally as Stachus. Many of the city’s main attractions are in the immediate vicinity, so sightseeing can easily be done on foot or by hopping on and off trams. Worth seeing are the 16th-century Michaelskirche, with its imposing barrel-vaulted interior, and the Asamkirche, considered a masterpiece of south German Rococo architecture. The oldest part of the city is the area to the east of Marienplatz, including the Alter Hof (the original royal residence) and the world-famous Hofbräuhaus. The Residenz complex lies to the north.

The wide boulevard and grand palatial architecture of Ludwigstrasse and Leopoldstrasse stretches north of Odeonsplatz to the Siegestor. These grand building schemes were commissioned by Ludwig I, as were those around Königsplatz, in the part of the city known as Maxvorstadt – home to some of Munich’s most important museums and galleries. From the Siegestor, Leopoldstrasse forms the central artery of the popular district of Schwabing. The former artists’ quarter is now considered the most fashionable part of the city, with numerous cafés, bars, restaurants and nightlife venues. To the east of Leopoldstrasse, side roads lead off to the Englischer Garten, a quiet retreat from the busy city.

Tourist Information
Munich Tourist Office
Hauptbahnhof, Bahnhofplatz 2
Tel: (089) 233 0300. Fax: (089) 2333 0233.
E-mail: tourismus@muenchen.de
Website: www.muenchen-tourist.de
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1830, Sun 1000-1800.

A second tourist information office is located in the Neues Rathaus, on Marienplatz. Both offices provide a hotel reservation service.

Passes
The München Welcome Card – available from the tourist information offices and any outlet displaying the München Welcome Card sign – entitles the holder to free travel by MVV transport in the central area and to the castles at Schleissheim, as well as up to 50% reduction on admission fees to 35 attractions. Group cards are also available.

The Verbundkarte is valid for two weeks. It allows admission to 23 state museums and collections in Munich – including the Alte and Neue Pinakothek, the Residenz and Schloss Nymphenburg. The pass is available for purchase at any participating institution.

Key Attractions

Around Marienplatz
Marienplatz has been at the heart of Munich since the city’s foundation in 1158. The area is now a major hub for the urban transport network. For centuries, it was known as the Schrannenmarkt (the place where farmers and merchants came to buy and sell their goods) but was renamed in 1854, after the statue of the Virgin Mary in the centre. The north side of Marienplatz is entirely dominated by the neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), built in the 19th century. Miniature statues of Bavarian rulers and other characters adorn the hall’s façade, while the 85m (279ft) tower houses a Glockenspiel consisting of 43 bells. The bells are accompanied by mechanical marionettes that perform scenes from Munich’s history. Visitors can ascend the tower by lift.

Nearby, other buildings of note include the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall), which houses a delightful toy museum, and the Frauenkirche – Munich’s cathedral. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, on the site of the Romanesque Marienkirche, the austere cathedral houses the tomb of Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian and the legendary ‘Devil’s Footprint’ intriguingly embedded in the church floor.

Neues Rathaus
Marienplatz 8
Tel: (089) 2331.
Admission charge.

Altes Rathaus Toy Museum
Marienplatz
Tel: (089) 294 001.
Admission charge.

Frauenkirche
Frauenplatz 1
Tel: (089) 290 0820.
Admission free (charge for tower).

Münchener Residenz (Munich Residence)
The Munich Residence embodies over 600 years of Bavarian history. Successive members of the Wittelsbach dynasty expanded the original 14th-century castle to create a complex of palaces around seven courtyards. The elaborate rooms contain antiques, sculptures, paintings and tapestries amassed by the Wittelsbachs between the 16th and 19th centuries – some rooms can only be visited during the morning or afternoon. Other royal treasures are on show in the Schatzkammer (Treasury). The entire Residenz complex, including the Rococo Cuvilliés-Theater, was rebuilt and restored after being reduced to rubble during World War II.

Max-Joseph-Platz 3
Tel: (089) 290 671.
Website: www.schloesser.bayern.de
Admission charge.

The Three Pinakotheks
The Alte Pinakothek (Old Pinakothek), constructed in the 19th century, for King Ludwig I, is home to one of the world’s oldest and most important collections of paintings by European Old Masters, including Dürer, Raphael, Rembrandt and Rubens.

The Neue Pinakothek (New Pinakothek), located opposite, in a modern building, was conceived by Ludwig I, as a showcase for contemporary art. The museum houses European painting and sculpture from the second half of the 18th century to the beginning of the 20th century. German painting of the 19th century forms the core of the collection. The entrance price includes an audio-guide, which is available in English.

The third Pinakothek der Moderne (Pinakothek of Modern Art) is a collection of contemporary art, architecture and design, taken from disparate collections throughout the city to complement the works housed in the first two galleries. The Glyptothek (ancient Greek art) and the Antikensammlung (antiquities) are located nearby, at Königsplatz.

Alte Pinakothek
Barer Strasse 27
Tel: (089) 2380 5216.
Website: www.pinakothek.de/alte-pinakothek
Admission charge (free on Sun).

Neue Pinakothek
Barer Strasse 29
Tel: (089) 2380 5195.
Website: www.pinakothek.de/neue-pinakothek
Admission charge (free on Sun).

Pinakothek der Moderne
Barer Strasse 40
Tel: (089) 2380 5360.
Website: www.pinakothek.de/pinakothek-der-moderne
Admission charge (free on Sun).

Deutsches Museum von Meisterwerken der Naturwissenschaft und Technik (German Museum of Masterpieces of Natural Sciences and Technology)
The vast Deutsches Museum presents a dauntingly comprehensive survey of science and technology, from prehistoric tools to space age inventions. Permanent interactive exhibitions are organised around various themes, including Aerospace, Computers, Mining, Technical Toys and Telecommunications. Next door, the Forum der Technik (Technology Forum) houses a planetarium and an IMAX theatre. Flugwerft Schleissheim (Schleissheim Aerodrome), located at Germany’s oldest aerodrome, is a branch of the museum, which focuses on aviation history.

Museumsinsel 1
Tel: (089) 21791.
Website: www.deutsches-museum.de
Admission charge.

Flugwerft Schleissheim
Effnerstrasse 18, Schleissheim
Tel: (089) 315 7140.
Website: www.deutsches-museum.de
Admission charge.

Olympia Park
The Olympia Park complex was laid out in 1972, for the 20th Olympic Games. It covers an area of 270 hectares (667 acres). At its heart is the giant tent-like structure of the Olympiastadion (Olympic Stadium), which hosts national and international sporting events and concerts. A number of tours are available upon reservation. The Olympiaturm (Olympic Tower) soars 290m (950ft) above the park, offering magnificent views from its revolving restaurant and observation terrace.

Olympiapark
Tel: (089) 30670 or 3067 2414 (tours).
Website: www.olympiapark-muenchen.de
Admission charge for tower and tours.

Englischer Garten (English Garden)
The English Garden is the largest urban park in Germany, is a quiet oasis in the heart of busy Munich. Attractions include the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower), with its great beer garden, the Japanisches Teehaus (Japanese Teahouse) and the Monopteros, a Greek-style temple. The Kleinhesselhoher See (a lake in the centre of the park) and the Amphitheater offer lots of activities in the summer months. The Haus der Kunst, home of the State Gallery of Modern Art (tel: (089) 2112 7137), which hosts excellent temporary art exhibitions, and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, the Bavarian National Museum (tel: (089) 211 2401) are located on Prinzregentenstrasse, on the southern edge of the park.

From Prinzregentenstrasse to Tivolibrücke
Tel: (089) 3866 6390.
Website: www.schloesser.bayern.de
Admission free.

Haus der Kunst
Prinzregentenstrasse 1
Tel: (089) 2112 7113.
Website: www.hausderkunst.de
Admission charge.

Bayerisches Nationalmuseum
Prinzregentenstrasse 3
Tel: (089) 211 2401.
Website: www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de
Admission charge (free on Sun).

BMW Building
To place the famous car company, BMW, in an over-dimensional four-cylinder-engine was the original idea of Viennese architect K Schwanzer. The world's biggest ‘V4’, in the shape of a four-leaf clover, was erected in 1973, to accommodate modern offices. The unusual building consists of the four silver towers, flat factory halls below and a giant ‘egg cup’ at the end of the halls, which houses the BMW museum. The exhibition displays classic old-timers as well as the latest, technically up-to-date models of the prestigious German car producer. The highlight of the museum is the spectacular cinema-scope show at the end of the tour.

Petuelring 130
Tel: (089) 3822 3306/3639.
Website: www.bmw.de
Admission charge.

Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace)
Located on the western edge of the city, the Nymphenburg Palace was built as the summer residence of the Wittelsbach family. Its stunning symmetrical lay out and the beautiful surrounding parkland was created in the 18th and 19th centuries. Highlights within the main palace include the late-Rococo Steinerner Saal (Hall of Stone) and the ‘Gallery of Beauties’ – a collection of portraits of beautiful women commissioned by Ludwig I. The extensive grounds conceal four miniature palaces within their landscaped confines, one of which, the Amalienburg, is considered the most attractive Rococo palace in Germany. The Nymphenburg complex also includes the Marstallmuseum, which houses royal coaches and riding equipment, as well as the Bäuml Collection of Nymphenburg porcelain, with exhibits from 1747 until the 1920s.

Menzinger Strasse
Tel: (089) 179 080.
Website: www.schloesser.bayern.de
Admission free, charge for palaces and museums.

Bavaria Film Studios
The tour of Germany’s ‘Film City’, where around 150 hours of cinema and TV films are produced every year, reveals the tricks of the film industry, including the making of films such us Das Boot (1981), Cabaret (1972) and Die Unendliche Geschichte, better known as The Neverending Story (1984), as well as many German TV series. English tours are available through advance booking.

Bavariafilmplatz 7
Tel: (089) 6499 2000.
Website: www.filmtour.de
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Westpark
Laid out in 1983, for the International Garden Design Exhibition, Westpark offers 72 hectares (178 acres) of wilderness in the city. Three separate areas recreate the contrasting natural habitats of mountain, meadowland and dry grassland; human interference with the plants and animals is kept to a minimum. In among the natural attractions, visitors can find beer gardens, cafés and several playgrounds. In summer, a floating stage hosts concerts, theatre and open-air cinema events. Open 24 hours a day

Garmischer Strasse, Sendling-Westpark
Admission: Free.

Zentrum für Aussergewöhnliche Museen (Centre for Unusual Museums)
This place lives up to its name. Under one roof, visitors will find a chamber pot museum, a go-cart museum, a perfume museum, a lock museum, an Easter Bunny museum and a museum dedicated to the Bavarian-born Austrian Empress Sisi.

Westenriederstrasse 41
Tel: (089) 290 4121.
Website: www.zam-museum.de
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

The Munich City Tourist Office (tel: (089) 2333 0234/0204) provides official guides for walking tours of the city, and coaches for group excursions. IPS München Sightseeing & Events (tel: (089) 871 2399; website: www.ipsmuenchen.de) organises various tours by bike and on foot, as well as bus trips for a half or full day excursions. The trips explore a wide range, from Bavaria’s beer and food culture to music and arts, literary walks and romantic Munich by night.

Walking Tours
Stattreisen München, Frauenlobstrasse 24 (tel: (089) 5440 4230; website: www.stattreisen-muenchen.de), offers a number of two-hour walking tours in German. Tours in English are available for groups, but must be booked in advance. Themes include the city’s role in the rise and fall of Nazism and the history of the city’s brewing industry. Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen.

Original Munich Walks (tel: (089) 5502 9374; website: www.munichwalks.com) operates a two-hour ‘Discover Munich Walk’, which takes in the major sites and includes a ride on a streetcar. The walks set off daily from Munich Hauptbahnhof at the EurAide office, track 11. Various themed walks, such as ‘Hitler & the Third Reich’ and ‘Dachau Memorial Walks’ are also offered at similar prices.

Bus Tours
Panorama Tours, Arnulfstrasse 8 (tel: (089) 5490 7560; website: www.autobusoberbayern.de), offers one-hour ‘Munich Highlights’ city sightseeing trips in German and English. These depart from Bahnhofplatz, in front of the Hertie department store, and cover all the main sights, including the areas of Königsplatz, Schwabing and Maximilianstrasse.

Less comprehensive but only costing the price of the public transport fare, is a ride on the 27 tram from Karlsplatz to the Pinakotheks, then the 53 bus past the Englischer Garten, followed by yet more tram rides. The free Entdecken Sie München/Discover Munich brochure, available from the tourist office, describes the sights along the way.

Bicycle Tours
Cityhopper Touren, Hohenzollernstrasse 95 (tel: (089) 272 1131), runs a number of cycle tours of the city. Shorter two-hour tours take in the sights of the Old Town, while longer four-hour tours explore the city’s parks and gardens. There is a minimum of six people and departure points vary depending on the tour chosen.

Spurwechsel (tel: (089) 692 4699; website: www.spurwechsel-muenchen.de) promises a relaxed and leisurely survey of Munich’s main attractions on its three-hour city tour. The beer tour could also prove interesting to many visitors. Tours in English are available for groups of eight or more. Individuals can join in the German tours. Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen.

Mike’s Bike Tours (tel: (089) 2554 3987/8; website: www.mikesbiketours.com) is the best bet for the solo traveller. Meeting points and departure times are listed on the website. The four-hour tour departs from the Old Town Hall and visits the Old Town and Englischer Garten, while the longer 10 mile tour adds the Olympic Park and Nymphenburg Palace. Mike’s also offers trips to Schloss Neuschwanstein (see Excursions).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Dachau: About 15km (9 miles) northwest of Munich and easily accessible by public transport (on the S-Bahn S2 to Dachau, then bus 724 or 726 to Gedenkstätte) the former concentration camp at Dachau makes for an unmissable, if emotionally draining excursion. The free Konzentrationslager-Gedenkstätte (Concentration Camp Memorial), Alte Römerstrasse 75 (tel: (08131) 669 970; website: www.kz-gedenkstaette-dachau.de), is open Tuesday-Sunday. The complex consists of a central building housing a poignant museum, a reconstructed barracks and the camp crematorium (including a gas chamber that was mercifully never used). Memorials to the victims can be found throughout the grounds. The entrance to the site is still guarded by the iron gates with their infamous message – Arbeit macht frei (‘working makes one free’). There is a documentary film shown September to May. A number of operators organise tours from Munich, including Radius Tours (tel: (089) 5502 9374; website: www.radiusmunich.com), which runs five-hour excursions.

For a Whole Day

Schloss Neuschwanstein: Variously known as the Swan King, the Mad King and the Dream King, Ludwig II (1845-86) is a legendary figure in Bavarian history. His extravagance and artistic imagination are exemplified in three elaborate castles – Schloss Herrenchiemsee to the east of Munich, and Schloss Linderhof and Schloss Neuschwanstein, situated in the Alps, to the southwest of Munich. Schloss Neuschwanstein (tel: (08362) 939 880; website: www.neuschwanstein.de or www.ticket-center-hohenschwangau.de) is the model for the castle at Disneyland and fully lives up to its fairytale reputation, with elaborate turrets and a stunning setting. A number of the companies listed in the Tours of the City section provide excursions to Neuschwanstein. The castle can also be reached by car, on the A95 toward Garmisch, then west on the 187 to where it meets the 314, and north toward Füssen.

Oberammergau: Famous for its Passion Play, the small village of Oberammergau, approximately 60km (37 miles) south of Munich, off the A95 toward Garmisch, is an attractive destination for a day trip, offering an Alpine setting, rural charm, elaborately painted houses and a heritage of woodcarving. The tradition of the play began in 1634 (as a thanksgiving for deliverance from the plague) and has since been performed every ten years. Further information is available from the Verkehrs- und Reisebüro Gemeinde Oberammergau OHG, Eugen-Papst-Strasse 9a (tel: (08822) 92310; website: www.oberammergau.de).

Starnberger See: Munich’s nearest lake, approximately 35km (22 miles) southwest of Munich, is a popular place for the inhabitants of the city to escape to come the weekend, for sunbathing and fun on its shore. Many German TV stars and politicians own properties around this picturesque and quiet lake, which makes it a perfect location for celebrity spotting. The S6 S-Bahn line stops at a couple of towns along the lake, from where Bayerische Seen Schifffahrt (tel: (08151) 12023 or 8061; website: www.seenschifffahrt.de) offers one- to three-hour boat cruises. The local tourist office, Tourismusverband Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land, Kirchplatz 3 (tel: (08151) 90600; website: www.sta5.de), can provide further information.

Sport

Shopping

Shopaholics are in for a treat in Munich. The city’s shops combine international names and designer goods with traditional Bavarian crafts. Neuhauserstrasse and Kaufingerstrasse, in the city centre, are the main shopping areas and are lined with large department stores and international chains. Smaller, more exclusive boutiques can be found around Maximilianstrasse and Theatinerstrasse. In Schwabing, Leopoldstrasse is a trendy shopping street with interesting boutiques tucked away on the surrounding streets.

Viktualienmarkt, the bustling, colourful food market at the eastern end of the Marienplatz pedestrian zone, is one of the city’s major attractions. The market is open Monday-Friday 1000-1800 and Saturday 1000-1500. It has existed on the site since 1807 and is a focal point of life in Munich. At the heart of the market is a traditional maypole surrounded by a beer garden.

Typical Bavarian gifts might include traditional clothing (Trachten) such as Lederhosen for men and Dirndl for women, beer steins (Bierkrug), wood carvings (Holzschnitzereien), pewter-ware (Zinn), the famous Nymphenburg porcelain and speciality foods – such as Lebkuchen and Christmas Stollen. Loden-Frey, Maffeistrasse 79, and Rudolf Mooshammer, Maximilianstrasse 14, are the shops to head for traditional, Bavarian-style togs.

Larger shops, department stores and supermarkets are usually open Monday to Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday 0900-1600. Smaller outlets are open Monday to Friday until 1830 and might close for lunch. Mehrwertsteuer (VAT) of 16% (or 7% for some goods like food and books) is included in the price of purchased items. Visitors from non-EU countries are entitled to a tax refund of up to 12.7% from participating stores displaying the Tax Free Shopping logo.

Culture

Munich can boast an impressive cultural pedigree. It is significant that the head office of the German cultural organisation, the Goethe Institut, is based here. The city was a major centre for the arts during the 19th century, under the patronage of Ludwig I and II. At the beginning of the 20th century, Munich found itself at the forefront of the new Expressionist movement. Der Blaue Reiter (The Blue Rider) group, founded in 1911 by Russian-born Wassily Kandinsky and Munich-born Franz Marc, is considered a seminal influence in the development of modern art. Other members of the group included August Macke and Paul Klee. The most important works of the group are on permanent show at the Städtische Galerie im Lenbachhaus, Luisenstrasse 33 (tel: (089) 2333 2000; website: www.lenbachhaus.de).

The English-language monthly Munich Found (website: www.munichfound.de) provides cultural listings information. The tourist office also puts out a useful monthly programme.

In addition to the box offices mentioned below, the best general source for tickets is München Ticket (tel: (089) 5481 8181; website: www.muenchenticket.de). München Ticket has a counter in the tourist information office in the Rathaus, Marienplatz.

Music: Munich’s musical heritage is dominated by the imposing figure of Richard Wagner, who composed many of his works for Ludwig II. His successors, Richard Strauss and Carl Orff, were both born in Munich. In addition, Mozart often performed in the city and Gustav Mahler conducted the world premiere of his eighth symphony here, in 1910. Nowadays, Munich boasts three international orchestras – the Münchner Philharmoniker (website: www.muenchnerphilharmoniker.de), the Symphonieorchester des Bayerischen Rundfunks (website: www.br-online.de/kultur-szene/klassic/pages/so) and the Bayerisches Staatsorchester (website: www.staatsorchester.de).

The Gasteig, Rosenheimer Strasse 5 (tel: (089) 480 9880; website: www.gasteig.de), is the city’s main cultural and performing arts centre, which includes the Konzertsaal, the Carl-Orff-Saal and the Kleiner Konzertsaal. The Nationaltheater, Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (tel: (089) 218 501), is the home of the Bavarian State Opera (website: www.bayerische.staatsoper.de) and hosts the annual international Opera Festival in July. Opera and chamber music can also be enjoyed in the Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz, Gärtnerplatz 3 (tel: (089) 202 411 or 2184 1960 (tickets); website: www.staatstheater-am-gaertnerplatz.de), and in the lavish 18th-century Rococo surroundings of the Altes Residenztheater, Residenzstrasse 1 (tel: (089) 296 836), usually known as the Cuvilliés-Theater, after its original designer. Tickets for the Nationaltheater, Staatstheater and Cuvilliés-Theater are available from a central bookings hotline (tel: (089) 2185 1920).

Theatre: Classic German drama is performed by the Bayerisches Staatsschauspiel (website: www.bayerischesstaatsschauspiel.de) at the Residenztheater, Max-Joseph-Platz 1 (tel: (089) 218 501 or 2185 1940, for bookings). The Münchner Kammerspiele, Maximilianstrasse 26-28 (tel: (089) 2339 6600; website: www.muenchner-kammerspiele.de), is one of the most important theatres in Germany and counts the young Bertolt Brecht among its former dramatists. The company will be performing at other venues, until renovation work is completed in spring 2003. Brecht also worked at the Deutsches Theater, Schwanthalerstrasse 13 (tel: (089) 552 340 or 5523 4444 (tickets); website: www.deutsches-theater.de), which now stages popular shows and musicals. Experimental theatre venues include Theater im Marstall, Marstallplatz 4 (tel: (089) 2185 1940), and Teamtheater Tankstelle, Am Einlass 2a (tel: (089) 260 4333).

Circus-Krone (tel: (089) 545 8000; website: www.circus-krone.de), the world’s largest touring circus, performs in a permanent big top, at Zirkus-Krone-Strasse 1-6, during the winter.

Dance: Immobile but enchanting, the carved figures of the Moriskentänzer (Morris Dancers) by Erasmus Grasser (1480) are a highlight of the Stadtmuseum (City Museum), St-Jakobs-Platz 1 (tel: (089) 2332 2370; website: www.stadtmuseum-online.de). More lively is the Bavarian State Ballet (website: www.bayerisches.staatsballett.de), which performs at the Nationaltheater, Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (tel: (089) 218 501). The group hosts an international ballet week in spring each year.

Film: About 50 films are produced in Munich each year. The city has connections with some of the key directors in new German cinema, including Rainer Werner Fassbinder of Lili Marlene (1980) fame, who studied drama here, and Werner Herzog, who was born in Munich in 1942. Both directors worked at the Bavaria Film Studios, in Geiselgasteig, which were founded in 1919. Visitors can enjoy a tour through the film studios (see Key Attractions). Films set in the city include white-knuckle-ride thriller Das Experiment (2001), based on the infamous Stanford Prison Experiment, and Carnival Story (1954), the high-wire, old-world romance directed by Bavarian born Kurt Neumann, who is probably more famous for his later work, The Fly (1958).

The Filmmuseum in the Stadtmuseum, St-Jakobs-Platz 1 (tel: (089) 2332 4150; website: www.stadtmuseum-online.de), has a monthly schedule of classic and arthouse films dedicated to a particular director, actor or genre. Most films are shown in the original language. There is a huge IMAX screen at Forum der Technik, Museumsinsel 1 (tel: (089) 2112 5170; website: www.fdt.de), while Cinema, Nymphenburgerstrasse 31 (tel: (089) 555 255; website: www.cinema-muenchen.com) has a strong programme of international and English-language screenings.

Cultural Events: Oktoberfest takes place at the end of September each year, on the Theresienwiese (known as the Wiesn). It is an orgy of beer, men in lederhosen, women in dirndls (traditional dresses), drunken tourists, oom-pah bands and terrifying fairground rides, all centred around 14 huge beer tents representing the city’s breweries. The 16-day festivities are opened by the Lord Mayor, who taps the first barrel with the exclamation ‘O’ zapft is!’

More high spirits are on display during the January-February Fasching, Munich’s carnival season, characterised by fancy dress balls. A sedate alternative is offered by the three traditional street markets/fairs (Dult) that are held annually (April, July and October) on Mariahilfsplatz, in the Auer district (website: www.auerdult.de). In December, Marienplatz is transformed into the world-famous Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market). Bavarian choirs sing from the town hall balcony and a huge Christmas tree illuminates the scene. The summer (June-July) and winter (November-December) Tollwood festivals (tel: (089) 383 8500; website: www.tollwood.de) provide a popular mix of theatre, opera, music and modern circus performances.

Literary Notes: Thomas Mann moved to Munich as a young man and worked for the satiric journal, Simplicissimus, before taking up writing as a career. His first great novel, Buddenbrooks (1900), was finished in the city. The 20th-century writers associated with Munich include Siegfried Sommer, who wrote Und Keiner Weint Mir Nach (And Nobody Weeps For Me, 1996), and Alfred Andersch, author of Sansibar oder der letzte Grund (Zanzibar or the Last Reason, 1999), who was born in Munich in 1914 and spent a short time in the concentration camp in Dachau, for his left-wing views. Young visitors will enjoy the works of Erich Kästner – Emil und die Detektive (1929), otherwise known as Emil and the Detectives, and Das doppelte Lottchen (1949), which was filmed as Two Times Lotte (1950).

Nightlife

The area around Münchener Freiheit in Schwabing is the best known nightlife district, with innumerable bars, cafés, restaurants, jazz venues, dance clubs and crowds of students and youthful revellers, especially on Occamstrasse. Haidhausen offers a more alternative scene. The Glockenbachviertel, located south of Sendlinger Tor, is the focus of the gay scene, and nearby, just to the east, a large number of hip new bars are have opened up on the streets radiating from Gärtnerplatz.

The city has a range of bars and clubs to suit most tastes but admission and drink prices can be shockingly high and bouncers have a reputation for being particularly choosy. There is a trend towards bar-bistros, bar-cafés and, as in the rest of Germany, Feierabend discos, which run 1800-2200 on weeknights and are increasingly popular with a slightly older crowd, bopping to 60s, 70s or 80s music. The hippest club nights in the city are often one-offs, so it pays to ask around.

Licensing laws are not restrictive and Munich’s clubs and pubs stay open until late. The legal drinking age in pubs and clubs is 18.

Munich Found (website: www.munichfound.de) has English-language listings, while Flyer (website: www.flyer.de) and Prinz (website: www.prinz.de) are its German-language counterparts.

Bars: One of several good bars and cafés on Türkenstrasse, Alter Simpl, 57 Türkenstrasse, is famous for its links to the satirical magazine Simplicissimus and retains its bohemian ambience. Tresznjewski, Theresienstrasse 72, has got that arty flair and long after midnight, when it is usually jam-packed, it becomes very flirtatious, as does legendary Schumann’s, Odeonsplatz 6-7, where the cocktails are to die for. In the ultra-hip Gärtnerplatz quarter, cocktail bars like Ksar Club, 31 Müllerstrasse, Holy Home, 21 Reichenbachstrasse, and Lizard Lounge, 31 Corneliusstrasse are always so packed with a stylish crowd that it is next to impossiblt to get a seat.

Also in the Gärtnerplatz area, some of the little bars like Morizz, 43 Klenzestrasse, and Café Glück, 4 Palmstrasse, which originally opened as trendy gay hangouts, have been discovered and colonised by Munich's straight population. If you want to find the latest hip gay bars, the Café im Sub gay centre, Müllerstrasse 43 (website: www.subonline.org), serves up info as well as drinks.

The Hofbräuhaus, Platz 9, is a Munich institution, although for a less raucous experience, head to the Augustiner Gaststätte, Neuhauser Strasse 27. If you prefer your beer al fresco, visit the beer garden in the colourful Viktualienmarkt (see Shopping). For an alternative to beer, head to the Pfälzer Weinprobierstube, Residenzstrasse 1, for a good selection of German wines and a buzzing atmosphere.

Casinos: The main casino is the Spielbank Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Am Kurpark, in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (tel: (088) 219 5990; website: www.spielbanken-bayern.de) Players need to provide a valid ID showing they are 21 years or older when paying the entrance fee. Dress code is smart (jacket and tie for men).

Clubs: Top spots include the Alabamahalle, Domagkstrasse 33, with varied club nights in a massive space and Babylon-2, 143 Rosenheimerstrasse, the largest club in Munich, with huge, packed dancefloors and a lazershow that is weel worth seeing. Far more intimate, the Atomic Café, Neuturmstrasse 5, is a trendy spot in the city centre, featuring pop and rock music, touring DJs and some live bands. New York, Sonnenstrasse 25, is the most reliably fun gay club.

If you’re feeling flash, head to P1, Prinzregentenstrasse 1, an upmarket club, frequented by Munich’s jet set - exclusive, expensive and notoriously difficult to get into. To warm up for these high-profile locations, go to the nearby Park-Cafe, Sophienstrasse 7, which has a similar vibe but which, over time has lost much of its exclusivity.

Live Music: Muffathalle, Zellstrasse 4, (website: www.muffathalle.de), is a major popular culture venue with live music, theatre and dance performances. The on-site café serves food and drink during the day, transforming into a fun and friendly club venue in the evenings. Big-name acts perform at the Olympiahalle, next to the Olympic Stadium, as well as at the enormous Elserhalle, 143 Rosenheimerstrasse.

The Nachtcafé, Maximiliansplatz 5, serves up excellent live music daily and as the name suggests, the venue closes late. Admission is free but food and cocktails are pricey. If country and western is your scene, try the Rattlesnake Saloon, Schneeglöckchenstrasse 91, on the outskirts of town. Top-quality live jazz, including appearances by world stars, can be enjoyed daily at Unterfahrt im Einstein, Einsteinstrasse 42, and at Mister B’s, Herzog-Heinrich-Strasse 38.

City Statistics

Location: Bavaria (Bayern), southeast Germany.
Country dialling code: 49.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1°C (34°F).
Average July temp: 23°C (73.5°F).
Annual rainfall: 905mm (35.7 inches).

Special Events

Fasching, Munich’s carnival season, characterised by fancy dress balls, early Jan- early Feb, various venues
Fasching Sunday, parade, first Sun of Mar, city centre
Ballet Week, Mar, Bayerisches Staatsballett
Starkbierausschank (Strong Beer Season), mid-late Mar, traditional breweries
Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival), mid Apr-early May, Theresienwiese
Documentary Film Festival, late Apr-early May, Filmstadt München and various cinemas
Auer Maidult (May Fair), nine-day traditional street market and fair (website: www.auerdult.de), late Apr-early May, Mariahilfplatz
BMW Open, tennis championship (website: www.iphitos.de), late Apr-early May, Tennisstadion Iphitos
Lange Nacht der Musik (Long Night of Music), music performances (website: www.muenchner.de), May, 100 various venues
Stadtgründungsfest (City’s Founding Festival), Munich’s birthday celebrations, early/mid Jun, city centre
International Film Festival (website: www.filmfest-muenchen.de), late Jun-early Jul, Gasteig and various cinemas
Open Air auf dem Odeonsplatz (Open Air on Odeonsplatz), Munich Philharmonic Orchestra open-air concert (website: www.klassik-am-odeonsplatz.de), late Jun, Odeonsplatz
Münchner Stadtlauf (Munich City Run), late Jun/early Jul, throughout the city
Opernfestspiele, opera festival (website: www.muenchner-opern-festspiele.de), late Jun-late Jul, various venues
Tollwood Sommerfestival (Tollwood Summer Festival), music, cabaret and theatre (website: www.tollwood.de), mid Jun-mid Jul, Olympiapark Süd
Christopher Street Day, gay and lesbian pride festival (website: www.csd-munich.de), mid Jul, Marienplatz
Auer Jakobidult, nine-day traditional street market and fair (website: www.auerdult.de), late Jul-early Aug, Mariahilfsplatz
Summer Festival, Aug, Olympiapark
Oktoberfest, beer festival, late Sep-early Oct, Theresienwiese
Medien Marathon, city marathon (website: www.medienmarathon.de), mid Oct, start at Olympiapark, finish at Stadium of the Zentralen Hochschulsportanlage, Connollystrasse 32
Auer Kirchweihdult, nine-day traditional street market and fair (website: www.auerdult.de), mid-late Oct, Mariahilfsplatz
Münchner Bücherschau (Munich Book Show), book fair (website: www.buchhandel-bayern.de), Nov, Gasteig
Tollwood Winterfestival (Tollwood Winter Festival), music, cabaret and theatre (website: www.tollwood.de), late Nov-late Dec, Theresienwiese
Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market), late Nov-24 Dec, Marienplatz

Cost of Living

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005