World City Guide

Mini Guide of New Orleans

City Overview

New Orleans is the jewel of the southern US state of Louisiana, sparkling just above the mouth of the mighty Mississippi River where it meets the Gulf of Mexico. The heart of the city lies between the river and Lake Pontchartrain and, from this approximately 13km (8-mile) core, the suburbs of Greater New Orleans spread out into the surrounding expanse of drained swampland. The river’s shape, as it curves around the central district, gave rise to the city’s nickname, ‘Crescent City’, although, New Orleans is more likely to be known as the ‘Big Easy’, a clue to the city’s laid back and genial atmosphere.

New Orleans was founded in 1718, at the swampy foot of France’s huge Louisiana territory, and named after the Duc d’Orleans. Despite hurricanes, mosquitoes, disease and floods, settlers came and the city prospered. In 1762, the territory was secretly ceded to Spain. France regained it in 1800, only to sell it to the United States three years later in the Louisiana Purchase. Drawn by the rich plantations and thriving port, the Americans came seeking their fortunes. During the 19th century, New Orleans boomed with trade from the cotton and sugar plantations and, by 1860, was the wealthiest city in the country.

After the Civil War (1861-65), the region’s slave-based agricultural economy declined. Today, the Port of New Orleans, the second largest in the country, is the mainstay of the city’s economy, along with the petrochemical and aerospace industries, and tourism. New Orleans, with its unique atmosphere, is one of the most popular US destinations, particularly during its magnificent Mardi Gras celebration in late February/March.

Its oldest district, the French Quarter (Vieux Carré), has a wealth of architecture that portrays its colourful history. Most of the original buildings were destroyed in the fire of 1788 and the graceful houses with ornate wrought-iron balconies are actually Spanish in style. In fact, New Orleans has 17 National Historic Districts, with more than 35,000 listed buildings.

The easiest way to get orientated in New Orleans is to divide it into two main sections, Uptown and Downtown, with Lee Circle as the boundary. Above Lee Circle are the French Quarter and Faubourg Marigny. The Warehouse Arts District and Central Business District (CBD) border Lee Circle. Below Lee Circle are Uptown, the Garden District and Audubon Park. When asking directions, the river, not the compass, should be the guide. Locals seldom refer to north or east but rather to Uptown (up river) or Downtown (down river), lakeside or riverside.

‘The Big Easy’ is also a reference to a pace necessitated by climate. The subtropical weather is generally hot and humid from mid-March to October, although winter can be chilly and damp. The city can get a lot of rain, climaxing in intense summer afternoon thunderstorms. This is the time to indulge in New Orleans’ famous gastronomy, with such local specialities as gumbo, crawfish, red beans and rice, oysters, a muffaletta sandwich (deli meats, cheese on Italian bread smothered with an olive mixture), or simply a beignet (square doughnuts doused with powdered sugar) and a cup of strong chicory-flavoured coffee.

The mixing of French, Spanish, African and American cultures over the centuries has created a unique environment, blending the genteel elegance of the colonial Creoles, the music and cuisine of the peasant Cajuns, the exuberance of Mardi Gras, a touch of voodoo and a big dollop of Dixieland jazz. The timelessness of New Orleans can be heard in the clattering of the streetcars, the distant whistles of the riverboats, a busker playing a saxophone or the soft sounds of jazz through an open window. As they say in New Orleans, ‘Laissez les bons temps rouler’ – let the good times roll!

News: Hurricane Katrina wrecked havoc on the city of New Orleans and its surrounding area on August 30, 2005. The city is out of bounds for the time being. Travellers should visit www.seeamerica.org for travel updates on the affected areas. The website will be updated on a regular basis to reflect current travel conditions.

Getting There By Air

New Orleans International Airport (MSY)
Tel: (504) 464 0831.
Website: www.flymsy.com

Named after the famous New Orleans jazz musician, the Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport is 24km (15 miles) west of the city in Kenner. It is easy to negotiate and has all the modern airport facilities. Though it served 9.27 million passengers in 2003, it is comparatively small (rated only 40th for volume in the USA).

Approximate flight times to New Orleans: From London is 10 hours; from New York is 2 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 5 hours and from Sydney is 21 hours.

Airport facilities: These include banks, bureau de change, ATMs, post office, luggage storage, facilities for the disabled, Internet access points, multilingual information booths and a few restaurants, bars and shops. The major car rental companies, including Alamo, Avis, Dollar, Hertz, National and Thrifty, all have offices at the airport. Business facilities are also available at the Mutual of Omaha Business Center, located in the Ticket Lobby.

Transport to the city: The New Orleans Airport Shuttle Bus (tel: (504) 522 3500 or (866) 596 2699; website: www.airportshuttleneworleans.com) runs frequently between the airport and the major downtown hotels (journey time – 45 minutes). The service continues until the last flight of the evening. The New Orleans Regional Transport Authority (tel: (504) 818 1077) runs a local bus service every 10 minutes – the major downtown stop being on Tulane Avenue, opposite the public library. Outside those hours, the service terminates at Carrollton Avenue, from where travellers must transfer to bus 39, to continue downtown (journey time – 45 minutes). Taxi fares are regulated, and fares are higher for the airport than for other destinations around the city.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Major cross-country roads in the USA are called Interstate roads. On road signs and maps, these are designated by an ‘I’ and a corresponding number. All 50 US states have their own traffic rules and regulations, although there is generally little difference. Some states, for instance, require lights during rain. In Louisiana, the minimum age for driving is 16 years and cars drive on the right. All valid national licences are acceptable, however, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is preferred. US insurance is mandatory and can be purchased from the car hire company, but it is costly so check to see if your insurance covers car hires. In many cases, if the rental is charged to Diners Club International, the credit card covers the insurance.

Speed limits are generally 48kph (30mph) in town, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on the Interstate highways, unless otherwise posted. The wearing of seatbelts in a private vehicle is mandatory. In private vehicles, children under four years old must be protected in car seats. Louisiana has strict laws against drinking and driving, and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. Drink driving laws are strictly enforced. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%. Open containers of alcoholic beverages are not permitted in vehicles. Seatbelts must be worn by everyone in the car and passengers under 12 must be seated in the back. Drivers may turn right at a red light if the way is clear. A flashing red traffic light is the same as a stop sign, which means that it is necessary to come to a full stop and proceed when safe.

The American Automobile Association (AAA, tel: (800) 222 1333; website: www.ouraaa.com) can provide information, and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357.

Routes to the city: I-10 heads west to Houston (Texas) and Los Angeles (California), and east to Mobile (Alabama) and Jacksonville (Florida). I-55 heads north to Memphis, St Louis (Missouri) and Chicago. I-59 connects New Orleans to Birmingham (Alabama) and Chattanooga (Tennessee). Note that the exit for the French Quarter is marked ‘Vieux Carré’.

Approximate driving times to New Orleans: From Jacksonville – 8 hours 30 minutes; Los Angeles – 30 hours; Mobile – 2 hour 30 minute; Baton Rouge – 1 hour 35 minutes.

Coach services: Greyhound buses (tel: (504) 524 7571 or (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) arrive at the 24-hour Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Avenue, which is shared with rail services. Facilities include a tourist information booth and café. There are frequent services to Baton Rouge, Lafayette, Memphis and Mobile.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245, toll-free in the USA and Canada; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national railway provider and its service is generally good. Trains arrive and depart from the Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Avenue, where there is a tourist information booth and café.

Rail services: New Orleans is the terminus for the City of New Orleans service from Chicago, Illinois via Memphis, Tennessee (journey time – 30 hours), and the Crescent service from New York City via Atlanta, Georgia (journey time – 19 hours). The Sunset Limited service passes through New Orleans on its 4,800km (3,000-mile) journey between Orlando, Florida (journey time – 17 hours) and Los Angeles, California (journey time – 32 hours).

Transport to the city: The station is very centrally located. There is a public bus service and taxis are readily available. Walking from the station is not recommended at night.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Streetcars and buses are operated by the Regional Transport Authority – RTA (tel: (504) 827 7802, 24-hour Rideline; website: www.regionaltransit.org). Streetcars and major bus routes operate a 24-hour service.

The New Orleans streetcar system is the oldest in the USA and an attraction in its own right. Two lines run the length of St Charles Avenue and along the Mississippi riverfront. Buses run throughout the city. Tickets for both forms of transport are purchased upon boarding (exact change only).

Schedules are available from the RTA office. The VisiTour pass allows unlimited travel on RTA buses and streetcars. One-day and three-day passes are available from hotels and shopping areas.

There is also a ferry service operated by Canal Street Ferry (tel: (504) 376 8100) between Canal Street and the suburb of Algiers on the other side of the river. The trip takes 10 minutes and leaves every half-hour. It is free for foot passengers. Tickets for vehicles are purchased upon boarding (exact change only). There are no toilet facilities or food or drink concessions available in the terminals or on the ferry.

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the street and are easily found in the French Quarter and along Riverwalk. They can also be telephoned for, although there may be a wait. Companies include Checker-Yellow Cabs (tel: (504) 943 2411) and United Cabs (tel: (504) 522 9771; website: www.unitedcabs.com). A tip of 10% is common. The Taxicab Bureau (tel: (504) 658 7102) provides further information.

Driving in the City
A car is neither necessary nor recommended in downtown New Orleans. Parking space is minimal and most hotels charge daily rates for off-street parking. Most places that visitors might want to see can be reached on foot or by taxis, which are not expensive. In the French Quarter especially, streets are narrow and are on a one-way system, with some streets being closed to vehicles at certain times. The streets are also usually crowded with visitors paying little attention to traffic and at Mardi Gras, the entire French Quarter is closed to traffic.

Parking meters allow a maximum two-hour stay. Parking regulations are rigorously enforced. www.neworleansonline.com/neworleans/fq/fqparking.html lists most of the French Quarter parking lots, which are operated by Central Parking Corporation (tel: (504) 525 3191; website: www.parking.com), Downtown Parking Service, Inc. (tel: (504) 529 5708), Standard Parking Co. (tel: (504) 524 2919; www.standardparking.com), U-Park Systems (tel: (504) 585 1900; www.uparksystem.com) and hotel parking garages.

Car Hire
All the major car hire companies have offices in New Orleans, both downtown and at the airport. These include Alamo (tel: (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com) and Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com). Optional CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) insurance is always recommended if not already covered by the driver’s own policy. Drivers must be over 21 years to hire a car (most companies extend this limit to 25 years) and will need a valid licence or International Driving Permit and credit card.

Bicycle Hire
Renting a bicycle is fairly popular in New Orleans, although the most relaxing cycling is away from the French Quarter in places such as Audubon Park, City Park and by Lake Pontchartrain. Companies include French Quarter Bicycles, 522 Dumaine Street (tel: (504) 529 3136; website: www.fqbikes.com) and Michael’s Bicycle, 622 Frenchman Street (tel: (504) 945 9505; website: www.bicyclemichaels.com).

Business

Business Etiquette
In general, people in New Orleans cultivate a relaxed, informal atmosphere in keeping with the climate and easy-going lifestyle. Most people still wear business suits, particularly in traditional sectors, such as banking and law, or else ‘business casual’ (without jacket). In New Orleans, as across America, many companies have instituted a casual dress day, usually Friday, where employees can wear jeans or other casual attire to work. With the city’s warm climate, this is an especially popular trend. After hours, only a few top restaurants and hotels require men to wear a jacket and tie but smart-casual is more often de rigueur.

Socialising with clients is important as well as networking with industry professionals. Industry and career-specific professional organisations provide networking avenues and many companies host ‘business after hours’ events to encourage meeting like-minded businesspeople.

In New Orleans, with its superb cuisine, business is often done over a meal. And restaurants here do not rush their customers! Hosts generally do not invite clients home unless they know them well. Business associates tend to exchange business cards at an appropriate moment, usually towards the end of a meeting. Gifts are not necessary, although small items, such as pens with the company logo, are sometimes appropriate.

Business hours are typically 0900-1700 Monday to Friday. Lunch is generally taken between 1200 and 1300, or 1230 and 1330. Where alcohol is concerned, it is best to err on the conservative side, until the host’s preferences are known. Many Americans stick to soft drinks at lunchtime, especially in the hot, drowsy days of summer. By and large, people are health conscious and smoking or heavy drinking may be frowned upon in a business environment.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Sightseeing Overview
Although New Orleans has plenty of tourist attractions, some of the best sightseeing is done informally. A leisurely stroll through the French Quarter reveals quaint shops, hidden courtyards and beautiful old Creole-style houses with their decorative, cast-iron balconies. A walk in the leafy Garden District leads past stately antebellum mansions, while an amble along the riverfront unveils a scene of great barges and paddle wheelers.

Most visitors head first for the historic Downtown area, the French Quarter, also called the Vieux Carré (Old Square). Laid out on a grid, it covers an area of approximately six by 12 city blocks, with Jackson Square at its centre. The Upper French Quarter, stretching from Jackson Square to Canal Street and down to the riverfront, contains the most popular sights. Woldenberg Riverfront Park, with its wooden promenade called Moon Walk, offers beautiful views of the Mississippi. The Lower French Quarter includes the French Market. Downtown also encompasses the Central Business District (CBD) and the Warehouse District, a renovated area of art galleries and studios, bars and restaurants. To the southwest of the French Quarter is Uptown, where the Garden District is located. Bordering the French Quarter to the east is the Faubourg Marigny, an historic district with a bohemian feel, slowing reviving itself with bars, restaurants, and nightlife spots. Across the river from downtown is Algiers, on the Westbank, another good area for strolling.

Tourist Information
New Orleans Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau
2020 St Charles Avenue
Tel: (504) 566 5011 or (800) 672 6124. Fax: (504) 566 5046.
E-mail: internet@neworleanscvb.com
Website: www.neworleanscvb.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700.

There is also a Welcome Centre in the French Quarter on Jackson Square, 529 St Ann Street (tel: (504) 568 5661) open daily 0830-1700. Dining and accommodation reservations can be made from the website.

Passes
There are no formal visitor discount passes, however, visitors will receive a 20% discount on tickets to two or more of the following Louisiana State Museums (tel: (504) 568 6968 or (800) 568 6968; website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us), if purchased at the same time: the Cabildo, Presbytère, Old Mint, 1850 House, Madame John’s Legacy.

Key Attractions

French Quarter
Also known as the Vieux Carré (Old Square), the French Quarter covers a grid of some 98 square blocks stretching back from Decatur Street, which runs parallel to the Mississippi River. Dating from 1718, it is one of the oldest districts in the country, with superb 18th- and 19th-century architecture. Apart from the Ursuline Convent, which dates from 1745, the early French buildings were destroyed in two devastating fires in 1788 and 1794. The handsome buildings erected after this time, with their arches, fanlights and filigreed wrought-iron balconies, are actually Spanish in character. The focal point of the French Quarter is Jackson Square, arguably the loveliest square in America, with its Louis XIV-style garden landscaping and the symmetry of the stately buildings flanking the square – the Pontalba Buildings, St Louis Cathedral, the Cabildo and Presbytère (see below). Artists, tarot card readers, mimes and tourists make for a lively scene.

The other famous spot in the French Quarter is just north of Jackson Square – Bourbon Street, famous for its jazz clubs, bars and novelty shops. Other highlights to look out for in the French Quarter include historic tavern Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop and Madame John’s Legacy, a house with unique West Indian architecture and early Creole-colonial home design, dating from 1788.

Between Decatur Street and North Rampart Street (north to south) and between Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue (east to west).

Old Ursuline Convent
1100 Chartres Street
Tel: (504) 529 3040.
Opening hours: Tours Tues-Fri 1000, 1100, 1300, 1400, 1500; Sat and Sun 1115, 1300, 1400.
Admission charge.

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
941 Bourbon Street
Tel: (504) 523 0066.
Opening hours: Daily 1100-close.
Free admission.

Madame John’s Legacy
632 Dumaine Street
Tel: (504) 568 6968.
Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/site/madam.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

Cabildo
Built between 1795 and 1799, this handsome building takes its name from the Spanish council, or cabildo, which met here in colonial times. It is a fine example of the Spanish colonial style and its wrought-iron balcony railing is arguably the most outstanding work from that period in the city. In 1803, in a room called the Sala Capitular on the second floor, France signed the Louisiana Purchase, which ceded a huge territory west of the Mississippi, including New Orleans, to the United States. Today, the Cabildo houses a museum of Louisiana history. Among the exhibits are the colony’s founding stone and Napoleon Bonaparte’s death mask.

701 Chartres Street, Jackson Square
Tel: (504) 568 6968.
Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/site/cabex.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

1850 House
Set in one of the Pontalba Buildings (the twin rows of mid-19th-century brick townhouses lining opposite sides of Jackson Square), the 1850 House has been restored to depict a typical New Orleans residence of that era. It comprises a central court and rooms on three storeys, which are filled with authentic period furnishings. Of particular note are the decorative cast-iron railings, which superseded the traditional hand-worked wrought iron of the French Quarter. Look for the letters A and P in the design, the initials of Madame Micaela Almonester de Pontalba, the wealthy heiress who erected the Pontalba Buildings and made other improvements around Jackson Square.

523 St Ann Street
Tel: (504) 568 6968.
Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/site/1850ex.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

St Louis Cathedral
The simple yet elegant façade of St Louis Cathedral is a focal point of Jackson Square. Named after the former king of France, this is the oldest cathedral in the United States. It is the third church built on this site; the first was destroyed by a hurricane in 1722 and the second by a fire in 1788. The present building, dedicated as a cathedral in 1794, was extensively remodelled in 1849-51 to the specifications of architect, JNB de Pouilly. When Pope Paul VI visited in 1964, he designated it a minor basilica.

615 Père Antoine Alley
Tel: (504) 525 9585.
Website: www.saintlouiscathedral.org
Opening hours: Tours Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700.
Free admission.

Presbytère
Designed in 1791 as a rectory for the priests of St Louis Cathedral, the Presbytère was finally completed in 1813. By then, New Orleans had become part of the United States and the church rented the building to the city for use as a courthouse; it was then sold to the city in 1853. Today, the landmark property houses a dazzling collection of Mardi Gras memorabilia, from masks and costumes to videos and interactive displays about the history of the event. There are also exhibits of local art and decorative arts.

751 Chartres Street
Tel: (504) 568 6968.
Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/site/presbex.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

Hermann-Grima House
Built in 1831, for Samuel Hermann, a wealthy merchant, and later sold to attorney Felix Grima, this Federal-style house is among the best examples of American architecture in the Vieux Carré. The highlight is the Creole kitchen, where cooking demonstrations take place over the open hearth, all day on Thursdays from October to May. There are also period rooms and a restored stable.

820 St Louis Street
Tel: (504) 525 5661.
Website: www.hgghh.org
Opening hours: Tours daily at 1000, 1100, 1200, 1330, 1430 and 1530.
Admission charge.

Old US Mint
Completed in 1835, the Old US Mint manufactured Confederate money during the Civil War and continued to mint US coins until 1909. Its thick walls also served as a prison when Union troops captured the city. Today, as part of the Louisiana State Museum, it houses the excellent New Orleans Jazz Collection, which features music, artefacts and instruments, such as Louis Armstrong’s first trumpet. Also here are the archives of the Louisiana Historical Center.

400 Esplanade Avenue
Tel: (504) 568 6968.
Website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/site/mintex.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

French Market
Running for several blocks along Decatur and North Peters Streets, the French Market is one of the most colourful spots in the city. It dates back to colonial times, when a Native American trading post operated here, and was a busy open-air market during the Spanish and French eras. Renovated buildings, such as the Butchers’ Market (1813), now house cafés, shops and offices, while street performers give the outdoor areas a festive feel. The large covered sheds, built in 1936 as a public works project, house the Farmers’ Market, where fresh produce is sold, and the Flea Market, with an assortment of clothes, jewellery, hot sauces and other New Orleans souvenirs.

Along Decatur and North Peters Streets
Tel: (504) 522 2621.
Website: www.frenchmarket.org
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1830.
Free admission.

Garden District
Stretching from St Charles Avenue to Magazine Street and between Louisiana and Jackson Avenues, the Garden District is an elegant National Historic District of antebellum homes. Originally a separate city called Lafayette, which was annexed by New Orleans in 1852, the Garden District was first laid out in the 1820s and was settled by wealthy American businessmen. The handsome Greek Revival mansions are still private residences and are not open to the public. But a daytime stroll through this district of leafy streets and impressive architecture is very rewarding. One of the grandest homes is the Robinson House, 1415 Third Street, which resembles an Italian villa and was possibly the first house in the city to have indoor plumbing. Author Anne Rice’s home, Rosegate, is at the corner of First Street and Chestnut Street. In the centre of the Garden District is the Lafayette Cemetery with its ornate vaults and tombs, which featured in the film Interview with the Vampire (1994). It is best visited as part of a group on a walking tour (see Tours of the City).

St Charles Avenue to Magazine Street and between Louisiana and Jackson avenues
Website: http://gardendistrict.neworleans.com
Free admission.

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas
The country’s largest collection of jellyfish and sharks as well as sea horses, penguins, otters and a multitude of other sea creatures inhabit this foremost water world. Each of its four major exhibit areas (the Amazon Rainforest, the Mississippi River, the Gulf Coast and the Caribbean Reef) feature animals and fish native to that particular area. Many exhibits allow visitors to interact with creatures such as nurse sharks and turtles or to watch and learn about animals like penguins during their feeding times. Just outside, there is a fine view of the Mississippi at Woldenberg Riverfront Park which surrounds the facility.

1 Canal Street
Tel: (504) 581 4629 or (800) 774 7394.
Website: www.auduboninstitute.org/aoa/index.php
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0930-1800; Fri-Sat 0930-1900.
Admission charge.

Audubon Park and Zoo
Covering some 160 hectares (400 acres) and harbouring more than 4,000 oak trees, Audubon Park is one of the largest city parks in the country. It was designed by John Charles Olmsted (nephew of Fredrick Law Olmsted, the man who designed New York’s Central Park) and named after the painter and ornithologist John James Audubon. Apart from the walking and biking trails, play areas, picnic spots, riding stables, tennis courts and golf course, the highlight of the park is the Audubon Zoo, one of the nation’s best. Among its zoological exhibits are sections devoted to the Louisiana Swamp (visitors should not miss alligator feeding time) and a tree house for viewing monkeys close up. A cruise boat leaves Audubon Landing for an 11km (7-mile) river ride to the French Quarter and Canal Street, daily at 1100, 1300, 1500 and 1700.

6500 Magazine Street
Tel: (504) 581 4629 or (866) 487 2966.
Website: www.auduboninstitute.org
Opening hours: Park open from dawn to dusk; zoo open daily 0930-1700 (winter); Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat-Sun 0930-1800 (summer).
Admission charge (zoo), park free.

New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA)
This excellent museum is situated near the lake off Esplanade Avenue in City Park. Major travelling exhibitions and rotating exhibits from the museum’s large art collection are displayed on the ground floor. Highlights of the permanent exhibits on the upper two floors include the pre-Columbian collection, Native American art, the Asian wing, American and European paintings, and one of the largest glass collections in the country. There is also an attractive sculpture garden.

1 Collins Diboll Circle, City Park
Tel: (504) 488 2631.
Website: www.noma.org
Opening hours: Tues-Wed, Fri-Sun 1000-1700; Thurs 1230-2030.
Admission charge.

The National D-Day Museum
Celebrating the accomplishments of the one million Americans who participated, the museum gives a fascinating political and economic overview of the build-up and mobilization of the Allied Forces’ 17 different amphibious invasions during World War II’s D-Days. Crammed with maps, filmed narrations, artefacts and photographs, it puts a face on the war. Exhibits include the Home Front, Planning for D-Day, the D-Day Beaches and D-Day Invasions of the Pacific. Guides who speak French, Spanish and German are available. The museum will soon be expanded for research and other pertinent World War II events.

945 Magazine Street
Tel: (504) 527 6012.
Website: www.ddaymuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World
Blaine Kern has long been the king of the artists who create the stupendous Mardi Gras parade floats. Here, visitors can watch the floats being built on a tour of the facility, often conducted by Kern himself. A Mardi Gras film, photographs, carnival souvenirs and costumes for children to try on complete the experience.

233 Newton Street, across the river at Algiers Point
Tel: (504) 361 7821 or (800) 362 8213.
Website: www.mardigrasworld.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630; variable during Mardi Gras.
Admission charge.

St Louis Cemetery No 1
New Orleans is famous for its above-ground cemeteries or ‘Cities of the Dead’. Because the high water table made underground burial difficult, people built ornate marble tombs and vaults, decorated with statuary, mosaics, wrought-iron and other ornamentation, above ground. St Louis Cemetery No 1, just above the French Quarter, dates back to 1789 and is the oldest of the city’s many such burial grounds. It is also one of the most atmospheric, with crumbling tombs and the graves of some of the city’s historic personages, including the voodoo queen Marie Laveau. The cemeteries are vast, unpatrolled and can attract crime, so tourists should visit them as part of a guided tour (see Tours of the City).

Basin Street between Conti and St Louis Streets
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1500.
Free admission.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
There are numerous walking tours available, covering different themes on life in the Big Easy. One of the best options is Historic New Orleans Walking Tours (tel: (504) 947 2120; website: www.tourneworleans.com), often led by knowledgeable local author Robert Florence. Tours include a Cemetery Voodoo Tour and Haunted Tour, as well as architectural and historical tours of the French Quarter or Garden District. The tours take approximately two hours. Departure points vary depending on the tour – the French Quarter tour departs daily from Decatur Café Beignet, 1031 Decatur Street, while the Haunted Tour sets off from O’Flaherty’s Pub, 508 Toulouse Street. Walkers should check the website for details and arrive 15 minutes before departure time – reservations are not necessary.

Free history tours (limited to 25 persons) of the French Quarter leave daily from the Folklife and Visitor Center of the Jean Lafitte National Park, 419 Decatur Street (tel: (504) 589 2636; website: www.nps.gov/jela). Tickets are distributed on a first-come first-served basis, from 0900. The tour covers approximately 2km (1 mile).

Friends of the Cabildo are volunteers who do French Quarter tours everyday except Monday (tel: (504) 523 3939; website: www.friendsofthecabildo.org). Tours depart from 1850 House Museum Store, 523 St Ann Street, on Jackson Square. Le Monde Creole French Quarter Tours (tel: (504) 568 1801; website: www.lemondecreole.com) concentrates on the Creole history of the city in their two-hour tour, which departs from 624 Royal Street.

Gay Heritage Tour (tel: (504) 945 6789) looks at another notable part of the history of New Orleans, with a two-and-a-half-hour walking tour. Tours depart from 909 Bourbon Street. Call for tour schedule.

Bus Tours
The French Quarter is not really suited to bus tours, however, several companies offer tours of the rest of the city and beyond. Gray Line (tel: (504) 569 1401 or (800) 535 7786; website: www.graylineneworleans.com) has a range of tour options, covering the city and beyond, generally taking two hours. Tours depart from the Gray Line Lighthouse Ticket Office or Information Booth, behind the Jax Brewery in the French Quarter. Tours focusing on the city’s rich African-American history and culture are run by Le Ob’s Tours, 4635 Touro Street (tel. (504) 288 3478; website: www.leobstours.com). Tour themes include Black Heritage, Jazz, Plantation and Voodoo. Tours generally take three and a half hours (reservations are essential). Le Ob’s arranges pick up from major hotels in the central business district and the French Quarter.

Other Tours
Laid Back Tours, 625 Hagan Avenue (tel: (504) 488 8991; website: www.laidbacktours.com), offers kayak and bike tours of the city and the swamps. The tours last from three hours to three days, and prices depend on the duration of the tour and the bicycle chosen (standard or recumbent).

Royal Carriages (tel: (504) 943 8820; website: www.neworleanscarriages.com) offer horse-drawn carriage tours of the French Quarter. The drivers are often great entertainers. It is possible to hail a carriage anywhere but many park and await custom at the south side of Jackson Square.

New Orleans Paddlewheels, 610 South Peters (tel: (504) 529 4567 or (800) 445 4109; website: www.neworleanspaddlewheels.com), operates several boat tours, departing from the Aquarium of the Americas Dock, South Peters. The Cajun Queen Riverboat runs 90-minute harbour cruises, while the Creole Queen Paddlewheeler runs a ‘Battlefield Cruise’ to the spot where Andrew Jackson defeated the British. In the evening, the Creole Queen offers a two-hour dinner and jazz cruise, with or without dinner. The New Orleans Steamboat Company (tel: (504) 586 8777; website: www.neworleanssteamboat.com) is the other main operator, with several harbour cruises during the day and in the evening. Tours depart from the French Quarter, Woldenberg Park.

Cypress Swamp Tours (tel: (504) 581 4501 or (888) 554 8574; website www.cypressswamp.com) leads visitors past a Cajun Fishing Village and estuary on the variety of swamp tours offered. A resident naturalist is available to answer wildlife questions. Tours take from two hours (for the Swamp Tour) to eight hours (for the City, Swamp and Plantation Tour). Hotel pick-up is arranged. Louisiana Swamp Tours (tel: (888) 307 9267; website: www.louisianaswamp.com) runs two-hour tours of a swamp, on a 60-person boat, pointing out the various reptiles living within the bayou. Excursions depart from the dock on Bayou Road, off Highway 301, 37km (23 miles) from the French Quarter.

Gray Line (tel: (504) 569 1401 or (800) 535 7786; website: www.graylineneworleans.com) also offers two very unique excursions. The Southern Comfort Tour explores the history of sippable spirits as it visits famous New Orleans watering holes. The spirits on the new, three-hour Ghost Expeditions Tour are other-worldly. Participants are taken to ‘haunted’ properties and given instruments to study paranormal phenomena. Tours depart nightly from Jax Brewery.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Destrehan Plantation: Located 37km (23 miles) west of New Orleans, along I-310, the Destrehan Plantation (tel: (504) 764 9315; website: www.destrehanplantation.org) was built in 1787 and remains the oldest intact plantation home in the lower Mississippi. The plantation is open daily from 0900-1600. There is an admission charge. Tours and period crafts demonstrations are led by costumed guides, who praise the house’s excellent insulation, its cavities filled with a mixture of mud, straw, horsehair and Spanish moss known as bousillage. Scenes from Interview with the Vampire (1994) were filmed here.

Longue Vue House and Gardens: The interior of this 1942 Classic Revival mansion is exactly as it was. Each room, like the one devoted to flower arranging or another that is dedicated to modern art sculpture, is an entity unto itself. All are surrounded by a magnificent collection of flowers, greenery and fountains that comprise seven unique gardens. Longue Vue (tel: (504) 488 5488; website: www.longuevue.com) is located near the airport, just off Metairie Road Exit 231A at 7 Bamboo Drive. The estate is open daily. There is an admission charge.

For a Whole Day

Barataria Preserve: The Barataria Preserve (tel: (504) 589 2133; website: www.nps.gov/jela) is part of the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park. It is located on the west bank of the Mississippi near Marrero, about an hour’s drive from New Orleans along the Business-90 and Highway-45. The Preserve encompasses approximately 8,000 hectares (20,000 acres) of forest, swamp and freshwater marsh. Natural history walks are available daily. Canoe treks can also be arranged. The visitor centre is open daily 0900-1700. Admission is free.

Lafayette: About 200km (130 miles) west along I-10 from New Orleans is Lafayette, the gateway to the Cajun country. The Acadian Cultural Center (tel: (337) 232 0789; website: www.nps.gov/jela) traces the origins and culture of the Cajun people, who were relocated from Nova Scotia, Canada, to the Mississippi Delta in the 18th century, as well as other cultures of the region. There are several attractive Cajun towns and plantations north of Lafayette on the Cajun prairie. The town is also a good base from which to explore the swamps and bayous of the Atchafalaya basin.

New Orleans North Shore: St Tammany Parish on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain is just the place to burn some of those consumed Cajun and Creole calories. New Orleans North Shore (tel: (985) 892 0520 or (800) 634 9443; website: www.neworleansnorthshore.com) offers kayaking on the bayou and the Tammany Trace, a 50-km (31-mile) rails-to-trails path for biking and hiking. The trail crosses bridges, towns, bayous and Fontainbleau State Park. Five quaint towns make up the parish: the artsy Covington, Mandeville and Madisonville with their old waterfront homes, the funky Abita Springs, and the antique shopper’s heaven, Slidell. It is also home to Louisiana’s largest and most pristine marshes, Honey Island Swamp. For gator groupies there is the Insta-gator Alligator Ranch (tel: (985) 892 3669; website: www.insta-gatorranch.com).

Six Flags New Orleans: Six Flags New Orleans (tel: (504) 253 8100; website: www.sixflags.com/parks/neworleans), with its fun rides, live shows and killer roller coasters, is the place to find families. Many of the rides have a New Orleans theme. On one of its newest attractions, SpongeBob SquarePants the Ride, guests sit on a motion-based simulator and enjoy the silly antics of the popular Nickelodeon character. Located at 12301 Six Flags Parkway, approximately 20 minutes from downtown at the intersection of Interstate 10 and Interstate 510 at exit 246A to Lake Forest Boulevard. Admission charge.

Sport

Shopping

The French Quarter is one of the main shopping areas, with plenty of unique craft shops, galleries and other stores. The Central Business District (CBD) and Uptown are also good shopping centres. Lots of the souvenirs are based around the city’s unique Mardi Gras, with masks, costumes, dolls, photos, paintings and other artefacts. Voodoo items also make rather unusual gifts. For more tasteful items, there are the many antique shops on Royal and Magazine Streets. Jackson Brewery – Millhouse is a large mall on the waterfront in the French Quarter. Other shopping centres include Riverwalk Marketplace, The Esplanade, New Orleans Shopping Center and Lakeside Shopping Center. Tax-free shopping is available at the Tanger Outlet Center and Louisiana Tax Free Shopping Center.

Running for several blocks along Decatur and North Peters Streets, the French Market, open daily 0800-1830, is one of the most colourful spots in the city (see Key Attractions). The large covered sheds, built in 1936 as a public works project, house the Farmer’s Market, where fresh produce is sold, and the Flea Market, with an assortment of clothes, jewellery, hot sauces and other New Orleans souvenirs.

French Quarter shops have the longest hours of operation, about 1000-2200, except Sunday, when all shops close at approximately 1700. General shopping hours in the city are 1000-1700.

New Orleans’ sales tax is 9% and refunds for that percentage of the price of goods purchased in tax-free stores are available to overseas visitors at the international airport’s LTFS (Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping) Refund Centre. The LTFS voucher and the sales receipt from the store are required, as well as passport and international air ticket. Refunds under US$500 are paid in cash, otherwise a cheque will be put in the post.

Culture

New Orleans is one of the most ‘European’ cities in America, drawing cultural influences from its early Spanish and French settlers (the Creole) and French migrants, exiled from Nova Scotia in the 18th century – the Cajuns. Further cultural layers are revealed in the Indian and African influences, Dixieland jazz and the rich and terrifying legacy of Voodoo, brought to the city by Haitian slaves. Being such a melting pot of cultures and styles, New Orleans is naturally rich in cultural ore. The biggest cultural event in New Orleans is the annual Mardi Gras, celebrated here like nowhere else on earth. Given that the French Quarter is like an ongoing outdoor party any time of year, one can only imagine what it is like when the extravagant floats and costumes are paraded through the streets and the whole world has descended in search of a good time. There are, however, plenty of choices for those in search of more sedate cultural offerings.

Tickets are available for purchase from the venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (504) 522 5555; website: www.ticketmaster.com), which levies a surcharge per ticket.

Listings are available from the daily newspaper Times-Picayune (website: www.nola.com), the free monthly publication Offbeat (website: www.offbeat.com), as well as from free weekly Gambit and the monthly New Orleans Magazine (website: www.neworleansmagazine.com). Inside New Orleans (website: http://neworleans.cox.net/cci/entertainment) is an up-to-date and savvy Internet site, while Gambit’s affiliated online outfit (website: www.bestofneworleans.com) also posts weekly cultural events and performance. More online information regarding entertainment and restaurants is available at http://neworleans.citysearch.com.

Music: The much-lauded Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (504) 523 6530; website: www.lpomusic.com) performs at the Orpheum Theater, 129 University Place, at Common Street. The New Orleans Opera Association performs at the Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts, 801 North Rampart Street, in Armstrong Park (tel: (504) 529 3000; website: www.neworleansopera.org). This theatre, and the Louisiana Superdome, Sugar Bowl Drive (tel: (504) 587 3800; website: www.superdome.com), are two of the several venues that stage large-scale concerts.

Theatre: Numerous theatres throughout the city offer everything from avant-garde works to the classics, with a healthy amount of Tennessee Williams, who lived much of his adult life in the Big Easy. The March Tennessee Williams Festival (tel: (504) 581 1144; website: www.tennesseewilliams.net), centres on Le Petit Théâtre, 616 St Peter Street, French Quarter which claims to be the oldest continuously running community theatre in the USA and shows a range of musicals and drama. The Saenger Theatre, 143 North Rampart (tel: (504) 524 2490; website: www.saengertheatre.com), ranges from rock concerts to Broadway musicals. Musicals, plays and multimedia events are also staged at the two-auditorium Contemporary Arts Center, 900 Camp Street (tel: (504) 528 3805; website: www.cacno.org).

Dance: The New Orleans Ballet (tel: (504) 522 0996; website: www.nobadance.com) performs from September to May at the Mahalia Jackson Theatre of the Performing Arts, 801 North Rampart Street in Armstrong Park (tel: (504) 218 0150).

Film: The Big Easy is perennially popular as a movie location and some of the better known films shot there are Easy Rider (1969), JFK (1991), Dead Man Walking (1995) and, of course, The Big Easy (1987). Other movies include Passion Fish (1992), Storyville (1992), The Apostle (1997) and Runaway Jury (2003).

To see these and other movies, there is no shortage of screens. The biggest is the Entergy IMAX Theater in the Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal Street (tel: (504) 581 4629). Canal Place Cinemas, 333 Canal Street (tel: (504) 581 5400), shows first-run films, both arthouse and mainstream, while real film buffs will of course want to check what’s on at The Film Buff’s Institute, 6363 St Charles Street, (tel: (504) 865 2152; website: www.loyno.edu/filmstudies), run during term time at Loyola University. Both The Film Buff’s Institute and Canal Place Cinemas are known for showing independent and arthouse films.

Literary Notes: The first literary note to strike visitors is to see that there really is a streetcar named ‘Desire’, which prompted the title of the 1947 play by Tennessee Williams. Pulitzer Prize-winning author William Faulkner wrote his first book, Soldier’s Pay (1926), while living in New Orleans in the 1920s. Another title inspired by the city is Dinner at Antoine’s, the 1948 novel by Frances Parkinson Keyes. It is still possible for one to dine at the restaurant Antoine’s, 713 St Louis Street.

Writers Truman Capote (1924-84) and Lillian Hellman (1905-84) were both born in New Orleans, as was the strange and sad writer John Kennedy Toole. Toole committed suicide in 1969, partly because he had been unable to find a publisher for his one great novel, A Confederacy of Dunces, finally posthumously published in 1980.

The most famous current literary resident is the ‘vampire novelist’, Anne Rice, whose fans come from all over the world to see her city. Her best-known work, Interview with the Vampire (1976), was made into a film in 1994. Her home, Rosegate, is at the corner of First Street and Chestnut Street in the Garden District. The author occasionally leads walks too.

Nightlife

New Orleans has it all. The most well-known district is the French Quarter, centring on Bourbon Street. This is more a magnet for tourists than for locals and there is everything from strip shows (and more, towards the western end) to bars featuring blues, jazz and Cajun music. Across Esplanade Avenue at the eastern end of the French Quarter is a much more sedate nightlife hotspot - Faubourg Marigny.

Jazz is generally considered to be a New Orleans’ creation and the city is constantly buzzing with music. There are dozens of live venues, as well as numerous jazz trumpeters and other buskers on the streets. Bars and clubs throughout the city are permitted to remain open 24 hours and it is one of the few places in America where alcohol can be consumed on the street provided it is in a plastic container. The legal minimum drinking and gambling age is 21 years. As in most large US cities, the distinction between bars, clubs and live music venues is often blurred.

The daily newspaper Times-Picayune (website: www.nola.com), lists nightlife events – a section on Friday covers the weekend highlights. The monthly publication Offbeat, and the weekly Gambit both are free newspapers with nightlife listings. The monthly New Orleans Magazine (website: www.neworleansmagazine.com) also lists and reviews entertainment in the city. Inside New Orleans (website: http://neworleans.cox.net/cci/entertainment) is an up-to-date and savvy Internet site, while Gambit’s affiliated online outfit (website: www.bestofneworleans.com) also posts weekly nightlife events. CitySearch New Orleans offers nightline events online at http://neworleans.citysearch.com.

Bars: Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, 941 Bourbon Street, is one of the city’s most atmospheric bars and quite unlike other Bourbon Street bars, lit only by candles. It dates from the 18th century and is said to be the oldest building in use as a bar in America. The Old Absinthe House, 240 Bourbon Street, opened in 1806, may no longer serve absinthe but for an historical artefact it is youthful in atmosphere. The Bombay Club, located in the Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti Street, is for those who prefer a more upmarket venue, with cocktails served in the wood-panelled interior. Pat O’Briens, 718 St Peter Street, is a New Orleans drinking institution and the place to try the famous Hurricane cocktail (rum, orange juice, pineapple juice and grenadine). F&M Patio Bar, 4841 Tchoupitoulas Street, a loud and popular place in Uptown that never closes, frequently sponsors all-nighters and some decent late-night fare. Napoleon House, 500 Chartres Street, is the originator of Pimm’s Cup and a fantastic French Quarter venue, which has been around since 1914. The eclectic decor has attracted the likes of Nicolas Cage and Matt Dillon. Mardi Gras and Jazz memorabilia decorate the chic, Ritz Carlton French Quarter Bar (FQB), 921 Canal Street, one of the city’s newer hot spots. For the feel of an English gentlemen’s club, visit the cigar-friendly Polo Lounge at Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier Street. The other-worldly is evident at the candlelit, Loa, in the International Hotel, 221 Camp Street. It has an ‘interactive altar’.

Casinos: There are over 1,200 slots, 45 gaming tables, live performances and a Wild Card Sports Bar with 16 screens at Bally’s Casino Lakeshore Resort, 1 Stars & Stripes Road (tel: (800) 572 2559; website: www.ballysno.com). Harrah’s New Orleans, 4 Canal Street (tel: (504) 533 6000; website: www.harrahs.com), a massive shopping, dining and gambling complex on the corner of Poydras Street and South Peters Street, offers more than 2,900 slot machines and 120 table games. Treasure Chest Casino, 5050 Williams Boulevard, in Kenner (tel: (504) 443 8000; website: www.treasurechest.com), near the airport and Lake Pontchartrain, has about 1,000 slot machines, 50 table games and a shuttle service from many downtown hotels. The minimum gambling age is 21 years and identification may be required. The dress code at these casinos is smart-casual.

Clubs: Jazz clubs are a dime a dozen in this city. Funky Butt, 714 North Rampart Street, is a smart club that often hosts well-known local and national jazz acts. Its Art Deco style and split-level interior make it a popular hangout. Palm Court Jazz Café, 1204 Decatur Street, is a traditional New Orleans jazz club with a mahogany bar and good food. Donna’s Bar and Grill, 800 North Rampart Street, is on the northern edge of the French Quarter and is where locals go to eat, drink and to listen to brass band music. Snug Harbor, 626 Frenchmen Street, in the Faubourg Marigny, is run by vocalist Charmaine Neville and pianist Ellis Marsalis (father of Wynton and Branford) and is renowned for its hamburgers.

To dance to sounds other than jazz, clubbers head for Ampersand, 1100 Tulane Avenue (website: www.clubampersand.com), located in a former CBD bank. This is a popular club that attracts a young financial-industry crowd, with its cocktails and the latest in techno pop and house. Saturday is theme party night with a drink-all-night cover. Listen or dance to music ranges from jazz to Latin at the funky Café Brasil, 2100 Chartres Street. The French Quarter’s Oz, Bourbon Street (website: www.ozneworleans.com), is the city’s best dance club and attracts a mostly gay clientele.

Live Music: Ernie K-Doe’s Mother-in-Law Lounge, 1500 North Claiborne Avenue (website: www.k-doe.com), is a must-see for fans of the singer whose ‘Mother in Law’ was a number one hit in 1961. He plays in this 50s-retro venue on most nights. Tipitina’s, 501 Napoleon Avenue, Uptown (website: www.tipitinas.com), at 233 North Peters Street, is another city institution, featuring music from New Orleans and beyond. Come early and queue for entrance to the legendary Preservation Hall, 726 St Peter Street (website: www.preservationhall.com), where guests sit on the floor, if they must, to catch musicians trained in the ‘Louis Armstrong school.’ Storyville District, 125 Bourbon Street, is another top jazz venue – it has several stages, a restaurant and serves a mean jazz brunch. House of Blues, 255 Decatur Street, covers many musical genres, from blues and funk to rock and country. It is now one in a chain of restaurant-clubs, owned in part by comedian Dan Aykroyd, who starred in The Blues Brothers (1980).

City Statistics

Location: Louisiana, south USA.
Country dialling code: 1. Area code 504.
Population: 469,032 (city); 1,317,541 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; standard two-pin plugs are used.
Average January temp: 13ºC (56ºF).
Average July temp: 28ºC (83ºF).
Annual rainfall: 1,450mm (57 inches).

Special Events

Art for Art’s Sake, art festival, Oct 2004 - Jan 2005, various venues
Nokia Sugar Bowl, Jan, football, Louisiana Superdome (website: www.nokiasugarbowl.com)
Battle of New Orleans Anniversary Celebration, Jan, Chalmette National Historic Park
Martin Luther King Jr Parade and Commemorative Event, Jan, St Claude Avenue
Mardi Gras, parades begin about two weeks earlier but end on Mardi Gras, Feb, throughout the city, especially French Quarter
Black Heritage Festival, Mar, Armstrong Park
Tennessee Williams – New Orleans Literary Festival and Writers’ Conference, end of Mar- beginning of Apr
Spring Fiesta, Apr, French Quarter
French Quarter Festival, Apr, French Quarter
New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, Apr-May, Fair Grounds Race Course, 1751 Gentilly Boulevard, (website: www.nojazzfest.com)
Saints and Sinners Festival, May, various French Quarter venues
Words and Music Festival, celebration of the work of William Faulkner, second weekend in Oct, various venues
Swamp Festival, Cajun cultural festival, Oct, Audubon Zoo and Woldenberg Riverfront Park
New Orleans Film and Video Festivals, Oct, various venues
Halloween, last week of Oct, throughout the city
New Orleans Christmas, throughout Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005