World City Guide

Excursions

For a Half Day
Château de Versailles: No sooner had Louis XIV set eyes on his finance minister’s château at Vaux-le-Victomte, than he decided to build a bigger and better one. The result is one of the three most visited monuments in France. Construction began in 1664, continuing until Louis XIV’s death in 1715. Much of the palace can only be visited with a guide, with the notable exception of the 73m (240ft) Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors), where the Treaty of Versailles was signed, effectively bringing World War I to an end. It is worth queuing for a guided tour, if only to recapture the ritualistic atmosphere of the reign of the Sun King, whose actions were considered as miraculous as the movements of the sun itself. The honoured elite among the 20,000 courtiers and royal ministers were obliged to relocate to the palace and observed these banal rituals with awe.

Entry to the château state apartments (tel: (01) 3083 7800; website: www.chateauversailles.fr) costs ¬7.50 (concessions available). There is the option of a one-hour guided visit of the King’s Chamber (audio tour), which costs ¬4. The chateau and gardens are set in a landscaped park, designed by Le Nôtre, which is open daily, except during bad weather, from 0700 in summer and 0800 in winter until sunset. Admission to the park is free, although entry to the formal gardens costs ¬3 (free in winter months). There are also guided tours of the garden for an extra ¬5. The château itself is open Tuesday to Sunday 0900-1730 (until 1830 from April to October). The grounds are so large that a little train chugs from the palace to the former royal love nests – the Grand and Petit Trianons (open daily 1200-1730 – until 1830 from April to October). The Italianate Grand Trianon was built in 1687, for Louis XIV to enjoy the company of Madame de Maintenon. Napoléon also had a penchant for this building, which is on a somewhat more human scale than the château, and stayed there with Marie-Louise. Louis XV had Gabriel build the Petit Trianon in the 1760s, for his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Admission costs ¬5 to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon combined. The château (and everything on site) is free to everyone on the first Sunday of the month from November to March.

Versailles is located 23km (14 miles) west of the city and is easily accessible from central Paris on the RER line C5 to Versailles-Rive Gauche.

For a Whole Day
Giverny: Monet lived in countrified Giverny, located 80km (50 miles) northwest of Paris, from 1883 until his death in 1926. The house, in which he painted his last, vast water lily canvas, is open to the public as Musée Claude Monet. Although the house retains much of its charm, the artist’s studio is now a large and over-commercialised gift shop – Monet is, after all, big business. Although many of the original paintings are now at the Musée d’Orsay, the inspiration behind them remains here – the famed water lily pond and Japanese footbridges. The museum, 84 rue Claude Monet (tel: (02) 3251 2821; fax: (02) 3251 5418; website: www.fondation-monet.com), is open from Tuesday to Sunday 0930-1800 (April to October). Admission prices are ¬5.50 for the house and garden or ¬4 for the gardens only.

A few minutes away, in 99 rue Claude Monet, the Musée d’Art Américain (tel: (02) 3251 9465; fax: (02) 3251 9467; website: www.maag.org), is a shrine to Monet-influenced American artists, such as Winslow Homer and Mary Cassatt. Opening hours are from Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October) and admission costs ¬5.50.

By car, visitors should take the A13 runs from Paris to Bonnières onto the D201 to Giverny. Alternatively, the train from Gare St-Lazare station goes to Vernon, from where visitors should take a taxi or bus to Giverny.