World City Guide

Situated between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, just across from Camden, New Jersey, Philadelphia is the largest city in Pennsylvania and the fifth largest city in the USA. The birthplace of the United States and the nation’s original capital (1790-1800), it was founded in 1682, by the English Quaker, William Penn, who envisioned the colony as a ‘holy experiment’ to create a land of tolerance and religious freedom. Many settlers fleeing persecution flocked to it. Penn named the town after the Greek word for ‘brotherly love’.

At the turn of the 19th century, Philadelphia was known as the ‘Workshop of America’, as its cotton mills, textiles manufacturing and steam-powered machinery plants led the country into the Industrial Revolution. Today, health care, medical education (one sixth of America’s doctors train here) and service industries such as tourism, banking, legal and insurance services drive the city’s economy. New high-tech industries, such as medical technology and electrical components, are also emerging.

Many of the city’s (and the nation’s) most famous sights are preserved in the downtown’s Independence National Historical Park, including the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, and the new Constitution Center, honouring the US Constitution. Colonial Philadelphia was also home to the great statesman, Benjamin Franklin, founder of the country’s first hospital, library, fire company and university.

Besides its hallowed historical sights, ‘Philly,’ as natives refer to it, also revels in culture and the arts, with a renowned orchestra, world-class museums and fine restaurants. The Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts is the shining jewel in the city’s artistic crown. Over 100 multi-ethnic neighbourhoods give the city a vibrant atmosphere, from the bustling Italian market to African-American festivals, from blues and jazz clubs to the traditional Amish community who sell produce and foodstuffs in Reading Terminal Market. Quintessentially Philly foods such as cheesesteaks, soft pretzels and hoagies (sandwiches) reflect the range of traditions in the city. Philadelphia is also the gateway for those travelling west into Pennsylvania Dutch Country, north to the ski resorts of the Pocono Mountains and southeast to the Delaware Peninsula and Atlantic Seaboard beaches.

Thanks to William Penn, a logical grid pattern for the streets makes Philadelphia easy to navigate. The downtown area is known as Center City. Main thoroughfares of Market Street, running east–west, and Broad Street, running north-south, meet at the central hub of City Hall and form four quadrants around City Hall. Regions include the Parkway Museums, Convention Center, Washington Square and Rittenhouse Square districts. Old City and Society Hill/Waterfront are Philadelphia’s oldest areas.

Weather can be changeable, with moderate amounts of rain throughout the year. Summers are warm with occasional heat waves. Winters can be snowy and cold.

Until 1987, the William Penn statue, the beloved city symbol perched atop of City Hall, was the city’s highest structure. While Penn still enjoys a supreme view, the erection of the Liberty One office tower gave the city a progressive outlook for the 21st century.

Getting There By Air

Philadelphia International Airport (PHL)
Tel: (215) 937 6937 or (800) 745 4283 for 24-hour flight information.
Website: www.phl.org

The airport is 11km (7 miles) southwest of the city centre. Its seven terminals handle non-stop services to Europe, Canada and the Caribbean, as well as more than 100 US cities.

Approximate flight times to Philadelphia: From London is 8 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 1 hour; from Los Angeles is 10 hours; from Toronto is 2 hours and from Sydney is 25 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include restaurants, snack bars, shopping outlets, duty free, currency exchange, ATMs and medical services. For language assistance contact the Communications Center from any white airport information telephone or tel: (215) 937 6937 from outside the airport or at the Passenger Assistance Counter located at the exit to US Customs in the terminal A. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National.

Transport to the city: SEPTA’s Airport Rail Line (tel: (215) 580 7800; website: www.septa.org), runs every 30 minutes to four city centre rail stations –University City, 30th Street, Suburban station and Market East (journey time – approximately 20 minutes). SEPTA bus routes 37 and 108 also take travellers to the downtown area or Center City. A taxi fare from the airport to Center City is approximately US$20 (journey time – 25 minutes). Lady Liberty shared-van service goes to major hotels every 15-20 minutes (at Ground Transportation Desk, dial X27 or tel: (215) 724 8888). For further information, contact the airport’s Ground Transportation Hotline (tel: (215) 937 6958).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Road travel in Pennsylvania is excellent, with good state roads connecting Philadelphia, Scranton, Harrisburg and Pittsburgh, as well as outside destinations, such as Niagara Falls and Washington, DC. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north-south and the even numbers go east-west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different. Driving in the United States is on the right. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient, but some other nationalities may be required to have an International Driving Permit (printed in English and bearing a photograph). Drivers are required to have third party liability insurance, however, collision damage insurance is advised, as costs can be very high in the USA.

The minimum driving age is 16 years. Speed limits are generally 48kph (30mph) in town, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on the interstate highways, unless otherwise posted. The wearing of seatbelts by persons in the front seat and children under 11 years of age is mandatory by law. Children under four years of age must be protected in car seats. Pennsylvania has strict drink driving laws and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.10%.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 763 9900; website: www.aaamidatlantic.com) provides emergency service and information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP/222 4357

Routes to the city: The Pennsylvania Turnpike (Interstate 76) is a toll road providing swift and efficient travel across the state, from New Jersey to Ohio. It leads into Philadelphia from the east and the west. The interstate highway I-95, also known as the Delaware Expressway, connects Philadelphia to Baltimore, Maryland and Washington DC in the south and to New York City and Boston in the north. The I-95 connects with the I-87, which runs north to Montreal.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) provides bus services to and from Philadelphia. The main terminal, the Greyhound Terminal, is located 1001 Filbert Street (tel: (215) 931 4075). Facilities are basic – toilets and a snack bar. There are buses to and from all parts of the country, including transcontinental services via Chicago (Illinois) and St Louis (Missouri).

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (215) 349 2152 or (800) USA RAIL (872 7245); website: www.amtrak.com) is America's national railway. Amtrak’s reputation and levels of service continue to grow with the introduction of new trains and high speed services on the Eastern seaboard. Increasingly, these Eastern services are becoming a viable alternative to the airlines on the shorter routes, such as to Boston and New York. The monumental Amtrak 30th Street station, 30th Street and Market Street, is across the Schuylkill River in the university district. Facilities at the station include rail information, checked baggage service, public toilets, payphones, snack bars and car hire from National and Budget.

Rail services: Philadelphia is a major hub on the northeast corridor between Boston and Washington, DC, served by the high speed Acela Express route. Journey times from Philadelphia on this service are Boston – 5 hours, New York City – 1 hour 10 minutes, Baltimore – 1 hour, and Washington, DC – 1 hour 40 minutes. Long-distance trains also connect to southern and western destinations in the USA.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Philadelphia is easy to navigate, thanks to Southeastern Pennsylvania Transit Authority – SEPTA (tel: (215) 580 7800; website: www.septa.org), who operate interconnecting buses, streetcars, subway and commuter trains. Operating hours for these services vary and some bus routes operate all night. Tickets are available for purchase from ticket offices and machines at the station or upon boarding (exact change required). Token discount packs are also available. All SEPTA’s buses are lift-equipped for wheelchair access.

SEPTA’s day pass is good for a full day of unlimited travel on all modes of transport, plus a one-way trip on the Airport Rail Line (R1). It is sold at the visitor centre at 16th Street and JFK Boulevard. Weekly and monthly passes are also available.

The purple Phlash (tel: (215) 599 0776; website: www.phillyphlash.com) shuttle bus runs a continuous loop around the city centre to the major attractions, from the Art Museum to Penn’s Landing. Buses stop every 12 minutes, at the special Phlash lampposts and services operate daily from May through November.

The Freedom Ferry (tel: (215) 925 LINK (5465); website: www.riverlinkferry.org) provides a ferry service between Penn’s Landing, Walnut Street and Columbus Boulevard in Philadelphia, and the New Jersey State Aquarium, Federal Street and Riverside Drive in Camden, during the summer (Check for dates). Crossings take 12 minutes and leave every 40 minutes, daily. Tickets are available at dockside terminals.

Taxis
Taxis are easily hailed in the street throughout Center City. Taxi companies offering a telephone service include City Cab Co (tel: (215) 492 6500), Liberty Cab Co (tel: (215) 389 8000) and Quaker City Cab (tel: (215) 728 8000). A tip of 15% is generally expected.

Driving in the City
With such a compact city centre and good public transport, a car is not necessary in central Philadelphia, although it is useful for excursions to outlying areas. Nevertheless, driving is pleasurable, as navigating is easy – streets are laid out on a grid system. Numbered streets run north-south and named streets run east-west. The main thoroughfares are Broad Street and Market Street – at their intersection is City Hall. As in any large city, the downtown area can sometimes become clogged with traffic, especially during rush hours (0700-0930 and 1530-1830).

There are many parking lots and garages located around the city centre. On-street parking is also available in Center City but visitors should look at the posted signs for restrictions on when parking is allowed.

Car Hire
The minimum rental age is generally 25 years but some companies will rent cars to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years for a steep premium. Those wishing to hire a car must be in possession of a full national driving licence. Liability insurance is costly but necessary. It is a good idea to check with your insurance company or your credit card to see if they cover rental car liability.

Among the major car hire companies operating in Philadelphia are Alamo (tel: (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel: (800) 261 7331; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and National (tel: (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com).

Bicycle Hire
Trophy Bikes, 3131 Walnut Street, (tel: (215) 222 2020; website: www.trophybikes.com), hires out bicycles by the day. Prices include lock, helmet and map. The company also offers guided bike tours (see Tours of the City section in Sightseeing). Bikes and blades can also be hired at Drive Sports, 2601 Pennsylvania Avenue (tel: (215) 232 7368; website: www.drivesports.com).

Business

Business Etiquette
Businesspeople in Philadelphia dress well and, while suits are still the norm for both men and women in many offices and financial institutions, business dress has generally become more relaxed, particularly on Fridays when many companies allow casual dress. In winter, practicality takes precedence over style and a heavy coat, hat, gloves and waterproof boots are essential in bad weather.

The normal working day runs 0900-1700, although some businesses start earlier. Meetings often take place over lunch – generally taken between 1200 and 1300 or 1230 and 1330. Business cards should be exchanged at an appropriate moment, usually the end of a meeting. Where alcohol is concerned, it is best to err on the conservative side until a host’s preferences are known. Many Americans stick to soft drinks at lunchtime. By and large, people are health-conscious and smoking or heavy drinking may be frowned upon in a business environment. Visitors may be invited for after-work drinks and/or dinner, although an invitation to the host’s home is unlikely. Gifts are not necessary, although small items (such as pens with the company logo) are sometimes appropriate.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Attractions in Philadelphia range from historic sites to world-class museums and cultural institutions. Most of the main sights are in the city centre, within walking distance of one another, giving visitors an opportunity for great variety in any one day. At the heart of downtown is City Hall. Directly east, on Market Street, is Independence National Historical Park, with the famous Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and the new National Constitution Center; Market Street continues on to the waterfront and Penn’s Landing. North of Market Street is the Old City Cultural District, with Christ Church and Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest residential street in America – the first house was built in 1713. To the south is Society Hill, with more historic buildings, and the trendy South Street neighbourhood of shops, restaurants and nightlife.

Circling clockwise around the City Hall hub are the Convention Center District, where Chinatown, the business district and many fine shops and department stores are located; the colourful Washington Square and upmarket Rittenhouse Square neighbourhoods; and the Parkway/Museums district. The diagonal Benjamin Franklin Parkway leads to the grande dame of this area, the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Beyond, leafy Fairmount Park spreads along the Schuylkill River. Broad Street, the ‘Avenue of the Arts’, runs south past many performing arts venues. Nearby is South Philadelphia, home of the cheesesteak and the famous Italian Market.

Tourist Information
Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation
30 South 17th Street
Suite 1710
Tel: (215) 599 0776.
Website: www.gophila.com

Independence Visitor Center
The visitor centre provides information on attractions and events throughout the region as well as computer stations to help in trip planning. Visitors can book tickets to exhibitions and events, make restaurant reservations and sign up for heritage tours.

Sixth and Markets Streets, in Independence National Historical Park
Tel: (800) 537 7676 or (215) 965 7676.
Website: www.independencevisitorcenter.com
Opening hours: 0830-1900 (Jul-Sep); 0830-1700 (Oct-Jun).

Passes
The CityPass (website: www.citypass.com) allows free admission to six attractions: the Franklin Institute Science Museum, the Academy of Natural Sciences, the Independence Seaport Museum, the Philadelphia Zoo, the Philadelphia Trolley Tour Works and the National Constitution Center. It costs US$36 (concessions are available), is valid for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance. A one-day Philadelphia Pass (tel: (888) 567 PASS (7277); website: www.philadelphiapass.com) costs US$39 and offers free admissions to attractions plus discounts at shops and restaurants.

Key Attractions

Independence National Historical Park
The Independence National Historical Park encompasses several historic attractions that date from the era of the American Revolution, most of which are free to visit. Independence Visitor Center provides a good introduction to the sights and there are video presentations about the park and the entire region. Among the highlights at the park are the National Constitution Center and Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was issued in 1776 and the Constitution announced in 1787. Park rangers lead free tours of the hall and grounds. The Liberty Bell Centre houses the cracked bell that was sounded after first public reading of the Declaration. It was later adopted by the anti-slavery movement.

The park covers about 15 hectares (45 acres) and comprises about 20 public buildings, which include Old City Hall, early home of the US Supreme Court, Carpenters’ Hall, site of the First Continental Congress, and the Second Bank of the United States, an outstanding Greek Revival building that houses a portrait gallery.

Sixth Street and Market Street
Tel: (215) 965 7676.
Website: www.nps.gov/inde or www.independencevisitorcenter.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700, although times vary for each building.
Free admission.

Christ Church
George Washington, Benjamin Franklin and other patriots worshipped at Christ Church, built as the first Protestant Episcopal church in the country. Franklin is buried nearby, in the church’s cemetery. The handsome Georgian building, begun in 1727, features a simple but elegant interior with arched windows, fluted columns and wooden pews. The narrow white steeple was added in 1754.

Second Street, north of Market Street
Tel: (215) 922 1695.
Website: www.christchurchphila.org
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700; services Mon-Thu 0800, Wed 1200, Sun 0900 and 1100.
Free admission; donations welcome.

Elfreth’s Alley
Tucked away off Second Street, between Arch and Race Streets, Elfreth’s Alley is reputed to be the oldest residential street in America. The 33 tiny brick rowhouses were built in the early 18th century, by a blacksmith, Jeremiah Elfreth, who rented them to artisans and seamen. Although the quaint buildings look like a movie set, all are private homes – except the one that houses the Elfreth Alley Museum, which depicts early history and 18th-century life.

Second Street, between Arch and Race Streets.
Tel: (215) 574 0560.
Website: www.elfrethsalley.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Mar-Oct); Thurs-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Nov-Feb).
Free admission, charge for the museum.

Betsy Ross House
The widow Ross, a staunch patriot, is credited with sewing the first American flag. Although scholars now dispute this, the small 1740s house where she lived is now a museum that provides an insight into the lives of working-class people in the Colonial era, as well as the history of the flag.

239 Arch Street
Tel: (215) 686 1252.
Website: www.ushistory.org/betsy
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, winter hours Tue-Sun 1000-1700.
Free admission; suggested donation.

Franklin Court
Part of the National Historical Park, Franklin Court was the site of Benjamin Franklin’s last home. The house was demolished long ago but in its place stands the striking steel ‘ghost house’, designed by Robert Venturi, which outlines the structure. The Underground Museum here has displays on Franklin’s life as a statesman, scientist and printer, as well as replicas of his inventions and a portrait gallery. Facing Market Street are a row of houses, also built by Franklin, which now house the Franklin Court Printing Office (a working 18th-century print shop) and the B Free Franklin Post Office. Mail sent from here bears this postmark.

Behind Chestnut Street and Market Street, between Third Street and Fourth Street
Tel: (215) 965 2305.
Website: www.nps.gov/inde/Franklin_Court/Pages
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (winter); daily 1000-1800 (summer).
Free admission.

National Constitution Center
The US constitution is brought to life with interactive exhibits and a dazzling show, The Story of We the People. The aim of the museum is to revisit important events in the US History in order to demonstrate that the constitution still works after almost 220 years. One of the more popular exhibits allows visitors to be sworn in as the president of the United States.

525 Arch Street
Tel: (866) 917 1787, tickets (215) 409 6700.
Website: www.constitutioncenter.org
Opening hours: Sun-Fri 0930-1700, Sat 0930-1800.
Admission charge.

Penn’s Landing
This waterfront stretch along the Delaware River marks the spot where Philadelphia’s founder, William Penn, stepped ashore in 1682. A host of music festivals and cultural events take place here, including a spectacular Fourth of July fireworks show. There are restaurants, live music clubs for night-time entertainment and a marina. The Independence Seaport Museum is a maritime museum with interactive displays and demonstrations. Visitors can also tour the 1892 cruiser, USS Olympia, as well as the World War II submarine Becuna. Penn's Landing is also the departure point for ferries to the New Jersey State Aquarium, in Camden (website: www.camdenwaterfront.com), on the opposite side of the river, where the Campell's Baseball Stadium is located.

Columbus Boulevard at Spring Garden Street
Tel: (215) 928 8801.
Website: www.pennslandingcorp.com

Independence Seaport Museum
Tel: (215) 925 5439.
Website: http://phillyseaport.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission charge.

New Jersey State Aquarium
Tel: (800) 616 JAWS or 5297.
Website: www.njaquarium.org
Opening hours: Closed until May 2005.
Admission charge.

City Hall
Philadelphia boasts the largest and most elaborate city hall in America. Designed in Second Empire style, by John McArthur and Thomas U Walter, it took 30 years to build and was the city’s tallest building until 1987. Completed in 1901, City Hall's massive central tower rises 167m (548ft) high and is the hub of downtown, with an open courtyard forming a walkway that connects Broad Street and Market Street. The tower is topped by an 11m (37ft) bronze statue of the city’s founder, William Penn, designed by Alexander Milne Calder. The observation deck, at the base of the statue, has superb panoramic views. A one-hour guided tour offers a look at the richly decorated public rooms, such as Conservation Hall and the Mayor’s Reception Room.

Broad Street and Market Street
Tel: (215) 686 2840.
Website: www.philadelphiabuildings.org/pab/app/pj_display.cfm/20977
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1630 (tower and observation deck)
Free admission.

National Liberty Museum
Highlighting intangible ideas like diversity, bigotry, heroism and liberty, the museum aims to make them more concrete through interactive exhibits and art. Many of the exhibits are glass sculptures including Dale Chihuly’s six-metre (20-foot) ‘Flame of Liberty’. Harvey Littleton’s ‘Shattered Lives’, a bullet through glass, illustrates both literally and figuratively what one bullet can do. The Jelly Bean People are a reminder that everyone is the same no matter what colour they are.

321 Chestnut Street
Tel: (215) 925 2800.
Website: www.libertymuseum.org
Admission charge.

Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts
Founded in 1805, by portrait painter Charles Willson Peale and other contemporary artists, the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts was America’s first art school and museum. The ornate Victorian Gothic building (designed by Frank Furness and now a National Historic Landmark) was opened in 1876, in honour of the Centennial. It houses three centuries of American paintings and sculpture by the country’s finest artists, including Gilbert Stuart, Thomas Eakins, William Morris Hunt and Mary Cassatt. There are also exhibitions of contemporary work by the students and faculty staff.

Broad Street and Cherry Street
Tel: (215) 972 7600.
Website: www.pafa.org
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700.
Admission charge.

Philadelphia Museum of Art
This stately neo-classical building sits at the top of a hill, just west of Center City, with splendid views down the length of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway to City Hall. The steps leading to its entrance are famous for being those climbed by Rocky, in the 1976 film of the same name. The museum’s collection is one of the most important in the country, with more than half a million paintings, sculptures and artefacts spanning 2000 years of art from Asia, Europe and America. Among the highlights are the American collection, with Pennsylvania Dutch and Shaker furniture, as well as works by leading artists, such as Thomas Eakins. There is also a large European collection (from medieval works to a fine collection of French impressionists) and a 16th-century Hindu temple. Free gallery tours, which pinpoint the highlights, are given hourly.

26th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway
Tel: (215) 763 8100.
Website: www.philamuseum.org
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1000-1700 (Fri until 2045).
Admission charge; free Sun (donations).

Rodin Museum
A branch of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the nearby Rodin Museum features the largest collection of the great sculptor’s work outside Paris. It includes numerous casts of the Thinker and The Kiss as well as The Burghers of Calais and the Gates of Hell.

22nd Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway
Tel: (215) 763 8100.
Website: http://rodinmuseum.org
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1000-1700.
Free admission; donations suggested.

Institute of Contemporary Art
Located at the University of Pennsylvania, the Institute of Contemporary Art is the city’s main venue for presenting the latest developments in the visual arts. Both new and established artists are represented in changing exhibitions of contemporary and often controversial works.

118 South 36th Street at Sansom Street
Tel: (215) 898 7108/5911.
Website: www.icaphila.org
Opening hours: Wed-Fri 1200-2000, Sat-Sun 1100-1700.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Eastern State Penitentiary
From the outside it looks threatening, but the castle-like structure with a skylight in every cell and solitary confinement was state-of-the-art in 1827. Previously prisoners were thrown into one big room, so this structure was considered a big step forward in social reform. The institution operated for 142 years. The cell of its most notorious inmate, Chicago mobster Al Capone, has been preserved.

2124 Fairmount Avenue
Tel: (215) 236 3300.
Website: www.easternstate.org
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700 (Apr-Nov).
Admission charge.

Italian Market
Founded by Italian immigrants over 125 years ago, the Italian Market in south Philadelphia is said to be the world’s largest outdoor food market and is a ‘must’ for foodies and people-watchers. Imported and domestic products range from cheeses, spices, meats and fresh pastas, along with dry goods. Many shops and restaurants are still run by original family members.

South Ninth Street, between Wharton Street and Fitzwater Street
Website: www.phillyitalianmarket.com
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 0900-1400.
Free admission.

Fairmount Park
Fairmount Park, by the Schuylkill River, is the largest landscaped city park in the USA, with 3,600 hectares (8,900 acres) of lush parkland and sights, such as the Japanese House and Garden and Boathouse Row – a string of mid-19th-century riverside buildings housing several rowing clubs. Dotted throughout the park are 18th- and 19th-century mansions, some of which can be toured. The park also houses the nation’s first zoo, the Philadelphia Zoo.

Fairmount Park
Tel: (215) 685 0051.

Philadelphia Zoo
34th Street and Girard Avenue
Tel: (215) 243 1100.
Website: www.philadelphiazoo.org
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Feb-Nov); daily 0930-1600 (Dec-Jan).
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

A host of tours covering Philadelphia and the surrounding region are listed in the Visitors Guide, available from the tourist office or at www.gophila.com/itineraries.

Walking Tours
See the sites at your own pace and rent a tour CD from Audio Walk & Tour of Historic Philadelphia (tel: (215) 272 5886; website: www.ushistory.org/audiowalk), which is available at Independence Visitor Center, 6th and Market Streets, and Lights of Liberty, 6th and Chestnut Streets. For reasonably-priced, private tours of anything in the area, contact All About Philadelphia Tours (tel: (215) 389 2510). Mural Arts Tours (tel: (215) 685 0754; website: www.muralarts.org/tours) examines the city’s plentiful wall art. From April to October, Ghost Tour (tel: (215) 413 1997; website: www.ghosttour.com) explores haunted sites, while other special interest tours include a Chinatown Tour (tel: (215) 772 0739), and an Italian Market Tour (tel: (215) 334 6008).

Poor Richard’s Walking Tours (tel: (215) 206 1682; website: www.phillywalks.com) covers four centuries of literary, cultural, religious and political history, on its enlightening tours of the city’s main sights – summer only (group tours only in winter). Departure points vary and tours last two to three hours.

Bus and Trolley Tours
Philadelphia Trolley Works (tel: (215) 925 TOUR or 8687; website: www.phillytour.com) gives 90-minute city tours, plus a 40-minute excursion through Fairmount Park, with an all-day hop-on hop-off pass covering 20 stops. The company also offers horse-drawn carriage tours.

Great American Trolley Company (tel: (800) 4 TROLLY (487 6559); website: www.gatrolley.com/pages/phila.html) tours Philadelphia sights.

Bike Tours
Trophy Bikes, 3131 Walnut Street (tel: (215) 222 2020; website: www.trophybikes.com), offers cycle tours of historic Philadelphia areas and Fairmount Park, on Saturday and Sunday morning, April-October. The two and three-quarter hour excursions set off from the shop and include a bike, helmet and guide. Advance booking is necessary. Trophy also offers standard bike hire (see Bicycle Hire section in Getting Around).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Valley Forge: Valley Forge National Historical Park (tel: (610) 783 1077; website: www.valleyforge.org) is one of the most revered shrines of the American Revolution. George Washington’s Revolutionary army camped here during the bitter winter of 1777-78. The site contains original 18th-century buildings – including Washington’s headquarters and a memorial chapel. Located 28km (18 miles) northwest of Philadelphia, on Route 23 and North Gulph Road, it is open daily 0900-1700. Nearby is the Wharton Esherick Museum, on Horseshoe Trail Road (tel: (610) 644 5822; website: www.levins.com/esherick.html). Known as the ‘Dean of American Craftsmen’, this eccentric artist is best known for his sculpted furniture, displayed in his studio-home, along with his paintings, ceramics and woodcuts. By appointment only. The enormous King of Prussia Mall is also located at Valley Forge.

For a Whole Day

Pennsylvania Dutch Country: Approximately 103km (64 miles) west of Philadelphia along US-30 are the rolling hills and quaint villages known as Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Here, Amish and Mennonites live an old-fashioned lifestyle without electricity, cars or modern conveniences. They are known for quilts and Shaker-style furniture, plus delicious foods like shoofly pie, funnel cakes, dumplings and homemade root beer. It is important not to photograph the Amish and, since there are slow-moving horse-drawn buggies, to drive carefully on the back roads.

The Pennsylvania Dutch Convention and Visitors Bureau, 501 Greenfield Road (tel: (800) PA-DUTCH (723 8824); website: www.padutchcountry.com), sells an in-car audio guide for self-guided tours of the area. Highlights include the Central Market, Penn Square; the Heritage Center of Lancaster County, 13 West King Street (tel: (717) 299 6440; website: www.lancasterheritage.com), a decorative arts museum featuring furniture, silverware and quilts; the Amish Homestead, 2034 Route 30 East (tel: (717) 768 8400; website: www.amishexperience.com), a mid-18th century farm; and the surrounding towns of Bird-in-Hand, Intercourse and Strasburg.

Bucks County: For quite sometime, the old farmhouses and covered bridges that dot the lush countryside have attracted art colonies, summer theatre, country inns and even wineries. Authors Pearl S Buck and James Michener (there is a museum in Michener’s honour at Doylestown) as well as lyricist Oscar Hammerstein have called it home. Stone houses, narrow alleys, boutiques and galleries have made the charming town of New Hope, a tourist favourite. For further information, contact the Bucks County Convention and Visitors Bureau (tel: (800) 836 BUCKS (28257) or (215) 639 0300; website: www.buckscountycvb.org).

Sport

Shopping

Shopping is a big attraction for visitors to Philadelphia, especially because the state of Pennsylvania has no sales tax on clothing or shoes and sales tax on other goods is only 7%. Major department stores are open Monday-Saturday 1000-1900 and Sunday 1000-1700. Most of the downtown shops close at 1700 or 1800, although those in the large malls, such as The Gallery, may stay open later. Many shops and department stores also stay open until 2000 on Wednesday. The big malls outside the city centre are open Monday-Saturday 1000-2130 and Sunday 1100-1800.

Center City has hundreds of clothing and jewellery stores. The granddaddy of them all is the John Wanamaker building, on 13th Street and Market Street, now occupied by Lord & Taylor. The enormous Grand Court is crowned by a 30,000-pipe organ, on which concerts are given daily. Call (215) 241 9000 for a schedule. Another Philadelphia institution is Strawbridge’s department store, on Eighth Street and Market Street.

The Gallery at Market East is the nation’s largest enclosed urban shopping centre. The Shops at Liberty Place, 16th Street and Chestnut Street, and The Bourse, 111 South Independence Mall East, are two other large shopping centres boasting gourmet foods and restaurants as well as shops. Rittenhouse Row is the city’s upmarket shopping and dining district. Jeweler’s Row, on Sansom Street, and Antique Row, on Pine Street, run for several blocks in the Washington Square district. South Street has several blocks of funky, eclectic shops and boutiques, while Fabric Row, on Fourth Street, between Bainbridge Street and Catherine Street, offers fabulous fabric stores.

The expanse of the Italian Market, South Ninth Street (see Further Distractions) offers a range off foodstuffs every Tuesday-Saturday 0830-1700, while Head House Square offers an outdoor craft market during the summer months.

Shoppers come from all over the East Coast to the enormous King of Prussia Mall, 24km (15 miles) west of the city, on North Gulph Road. The shopping complex encompasses The Plaza and The Court, with eight major department stores and 365 speciality stores, including upmarket names like Versace, Hermes and Tiffany. Franklin Mills, 26km (16 miles) from Center City, at 1455 Franklin Mills Circle, is a huge factory outlet mall with more than 200 stores selling name brands at 20-70% discounts. There are no tax refund schemes currently available to visitors to Philadelphia.

Culture

Philadelphia's culture stretches a long way back into America's past – the city lays claim to both the country's oldest music hall and oldest theatre. South Broad Street, known as the ‘Avenue of the Arts,’ is crammed with theatres, concert halls and performing arts schools. Its crown jewel is The Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, 260 South Broad Street (tel: (215) 790 5800; website: www.kimmelcenter.org). The Kimmel Center’s state-of-the-art Verizon Hall is home to the Philadelphia Orchestra (tel: (215) 893 1900; website: www.philorch.org), and Peter Nero and the Philly Pops (tel: (215) 546 6400; website: www.phillypops.com), which performs everything from classics to rock n’ roll. The Kimmel Center's Perelman Theater’s resident companies include the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia (tel: (215) 545 5451; website: www.chamberorchestra.org) and the Philadelphia Chamber Music Society (tel: (215) 569 8080; website: www.philadelphiachambermusic.org).

Entertainment listings appear in newspapers such as the Philadelphia Inquirer, the Philadelphia Daily News and the monthly Philadelphia Magazine, as well as in free publications such as City Paper and Philadelphia Weekly. Tickets can be purchased directly from the venues or from TicketMaster (tel: (215) 336 2000; website: www.ticketmaster.com). For Kimmel Center events, contact Ticket Philadelphia (tel: (215) 893 1999; website: www.ticketphiladelphia.org).

Music: Opened in 1857, the Academy of Music, Broad Street and Locust Street (tel: (215) 893 1999; website: www.academyofmusic.org), is the country's oldest music hall and home to the Opera Company of Philadelphia (tel: (215) 732 8400 or 893 3600; website: www.operaphilly.com).

Theatre: America’s oldest theatre, Walnut Street Theater, Ninth Street and Walnut Street (tel: (215) 574 3550; website: www.wstonline.org), is in Philadelphia, along with the award-winning African-American Freedom Theatre, 1346 North Broad Street (tel: (215) 765 2793; website: www.freedomtheatre.org), the Forrest Theatre, 1114 Walnut Street (tel: (800) 432 7780; website: www.forrest-theatre.com), which performs Broadway blockbusters, and the Prince Music Theater, 1412 Chestnut Street (tel: (215) 569 9700; website: www.princemusictheater.org), which produces original musicals. The Arden Theatre Company, 40 North Second Street (tel: (215) 922 1122; website: www.ardentheatre.org), stages innovative productions. Productions at the Wilma Theater, Broad Street and Spruce Street (tel: (215) 546 7824; website: www.wilmatheater.org), vary.

Dance: The Pennsylvania Ballet (tel: (215) 551 7000; website: www.paballet.org) dances classics and new works at the Academy of Music, Broad Street and Locust Street, and Merriam Theater, 250 South Broad Street. A leading African-American dance company, Philadanco (tel: (215) 387 8200; website: www.philadanco.org), performs at the Kimmel Center, 260 South Broad Street .

Film: Philadelphia has been the setting for many films, including Rocky (1976), Trading Places (1983), The Sixth Sense (1999), Unbreakable (2000) and, of course, Philadelphia (1993). Cinemas showing mainstream films are The Ritz Five, 214 Walnut Street (tel: (215) 440 1184 or 925 7900), and The Ritz at the Bourse, Fourth Street and Chestnut Street (tel: (215) 440 1181 or 925 7900), which has comfortable reclining seats, and also shows foreign and limited release films. See cutting-edge films at the Philadelphia Film Festival, 7-20 April, 2005, and the Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, 7-18 July, 2005, (tel: (267) 765 9700; website: www.phillyfests.com).

Literary Notes: The city’s most famous citizen, Benjamin Franklin, penned his timeless words of wisdom in his annual, Poor Richard’s Almanack (1733-58), and Autobiography and Other Writings (1771-1788) here. Esmond Wright wrote Benjamin Franklin: His Life As He Wrote It (1990).

From 1837 until 1847, Edgar Allan Poe resided in Philadelphia and wrote his famous The Fall of the House of Usher (1839), The Murders in the Rue Morgue (1841) and The Gold Bug (1843), as well as the poem Annabel Lee (1849), dedicated to his beloved wife. His house at North Seventh and Spring Garden streets is now the Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site.

Other renowned literary Philadelphians include the poet Walt Whitman and author James A Michener, who hails from nearby Bucks County. Bucks County was also home to the Pulitzer- and Nobel-prize-winning author, Pearl S Buck, author of The Good Earth (1931). Her farmhouse at Perkasie can also be visited. Upper-crust Philadelphia society was portrayed in Philip Barry’s play, The Philadelphia Story (1939), which was made into a film starring Katharine Hepburn, Cary Grant and James Stewart.

Nightlife

Philadelphia has a lively nightlife scene. Much of it is centred on dining out, for the city boasts a wealth of top restaurants – from the best of world cuisine to local specialities, such as cheesesteaks, hoagies and ethnic foods. A range of music is on offer every night of the week, although the city is especially known for great jazz and blues. South Street, between Front Street and Seventh Street, is a trendy nightlife area, with comedy clubs, jazz and rock clubs. Other popular nightlife spots can be found on Columbus Boulevard, along the Delaware River, around Penn’s Landing.

The legal drinking age in Pennsylvania is 21 years and bar closing time is 0200 daily. Drink prices vary widely according to venues, although prices are generally between US$3.50 and US$5. There are no particular dress codes or admission requirements in Philadelphia – these too tend to vary depending on the establishment.

The main daily newspapers containing nightlife listings are the Philadelphia Inquirer and the Philadelphia Daily News (joint website: www.philly.com/mld/philly/entertainment). Entertainment listings can also be found in the free publications – City Paper (website: http://citypaper.net), Philadelphia Weekly (website: www.philadelphiaweekly.com) and Philadelphia Magazine’s Going Out Guide (website: www.phillymag.com). Another useful online entertainment site is City Search: http://philadelphia.citysearch.com.

Bars: Bar Noir, 112 South 18th Street, is an underground bar with great cocktails and vintage movies. Good food and great Margaritas make Copabanana, 344 South Street, a popular hangout. Dave & Busters, 325 North Columbus Boulevard, Pier 19 at Penn’s Landing, is a popular sports bar, with billiards and electronic games. Owned by Georges Perrier of Le Bec-Fin fame, and within the chic Brasserie Perrier, 1619 Walnut Street, is a popular bar that attracts sophisticates. Mahogany on Walnut, 1524 Walnut Street, in the Rittenhouse district, is a dark and plush cigar bar.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Pennsylvania.

Clubs: Brasil’s, 112 Chestnut Street (website: www.brasils.com), is a hot salsa and reggae spot, while Polly Esthers, 1201 Race Street (website: www.pollyesthers.com/code/cities/city.cfm?loc=5), favours 1970s disco, as well as 80s favourites upstairs in the Culture Club. Shampoo, 417 Eight Street, has four levels of various music styles to choose from. Egypt, 520 North Delaware, a huge nightclub decorated with hieroglyphs and ankhs, hosts hip-hop and techno nights, while Rock Lobster, 221 North Columbus Avenue, Pier 13-14 (website: www.rocklobsterclub.com), is open seasonally. Rock Lobster is aimed at an older crowd and plays mostly rock ‘n’ roll.

Live Music: Two of the hottest clubs in Philadelphia are Warmdaddy’s, an upmarket club at 4 Front Street (website: www.warmdaddys.com), with the best of live blues, and Zanzibar Blue, 200 South Broad Street, where top jazz musicians perform. Chris’ Jazz Cafe, 1421 Sansom Street, and Ortlieb’s Jazzhaus, 847 North Third Street at Poplar Street (website: www.ortliebsjazzhaus.com), are also good venues for live jazz. Pontiac Grille, 304 South Street (website: www.pontiacgrille.com), is a venerable rock club featuring live local bands.

City Statistics

Location: Pennsylvania, eastern United States.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 1.5 million (city); 3.85 million (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; standard two-pin plugs are used.
Average January temp: 0.5ºC (33ºF).
Average July temp: 25ºC (76ºF).
Annual rainfall: 1024mm (40.3 inches).
Annual snowfall: 508mm (20 inches).

Special Events

Mummers Parade, string bands and parade 1 Jan, Broad Street
Mummers Fancy Brigade Finale, 1 Jan, Pennsylvania Convention Center
Chinese New Year, Feb, Chinatown St Patrick’s Day Parade, 17 Mar (or closest Sunday), Benjamin Franklin Parkway
Philadelphia Flower Show, Mar, Pennsylvania Convention Center
The Book and the Cook Festival and Fair, Mar, Port Washington Expo Center, Fort Washington
Pridefest America, end of Apr-early May, various venues
Philadelphia Film Festival, April, various venues
Philadelphia Shakespeare Festival, Apr-May
Philadelphia Open House, tour of private homes and gardens, Apr-May, various venues
Dad Vail Regatta, America’s largest collegiate rowing event, mid-May, Fairmount Park
Mellon Jazz Festival, through May, Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts
Rittenhouse Square Fine Arts Annual, early Jun, Rittenhouse Square
Elfreth’s Alley Fete Days, Jun, Elfreth's Alley
Sunoco Welcome America! Independence Day celebrations, late Jun-4 Jul, various venues
Independence Day, 4 Jul, throughout the city
Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, July, various locations
Caribbean Festival, Aug, Penn’s Landing
African American Cultural Extravaganza, late Aug, Festival Pier
Yo! Philadelphia festival, Labor Day weekend, late Aug-early Sep, Festival Pier
Philadelphia Fringe Festival , Sep, dance, theater, visual arts, music and plays are performed at various venues
Greater Philadelphia Blues Fest, Oct, Irvine Auditorium on the University of Pennsylvania campus
Thanksgiving Day Parade, 4th Thurs in Nov, Downtown
Christmas Light Show, late Nov-late Dec, Lord & Taylor Grand Court

Cost of Living

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005