World City Guide

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

All restaurant prices in Prague usually include 22% VAT. If a service charge (usually 10-12.5%) has been added to the bill, it is customary to round the bill up to the nearest Kč10. However, where a service charge has not been included, diners should leave 10-15% of the bill.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include VAT but not service charge or tip.

Gastronomic

Alcron
Prague’s finest restaurant for fresh seafood, the Alcron is a discreet semi-circular room in the Radisson Hotel, with a back wall consisting of a restored floor-to-ceiling Art Deco mural. The seasonal menu includes dishes like roasted turbot, lobster (Canadian or Breton) with beurre noisette, or mushroom cordonetti with black truffles and grilled scallops. Reservations recommended as there are only 24 covers. No lunch. Closed Sunday. They now also do cookery courses, which have proved very popular.

Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel, `tepánská 40, Prague 1
Tel: 22282 0038. Fax: 22282 0120.
Website: www.radisson.com
Price: Kč1,500. Wine: Kč650.

Francouzská a Plzeñská Restaurace (French Restaurant in the Obecní Dům)
The Obecní Dům (Municipal House) is Prague’s greatest Art Nouveau treasure. Situated in Staré Město, the building was constructed between 1905 and 1910, with contributions from all the major Czech artists and architects of the time, and has recently been restored to its original glory. The French Restaurant, designed by Osvald Polívka (who also created the façade and the café), mixes the new Baroque and Renaissance styles, Western and Oriental influences with Czech Art Nouveau – cylindrical glass and gold chandeliers oversee this wonderful setting. The special concert and dinner package costs Kč1,700, which includes three courses followed by a classical concert. Seasonal dishes can include grilled Breton lobster with herb butter, or artichokes filled with roasted vegetables and potato-fennel purée, or coq au vin or grilled turbot. Reservations essential.

Obecní Dům, Náměstí Republiky 5, Prague 1
Tel: 22200 2770. Fax: 22200 2778.
E-mail: info@obecnidum.cz
Website: www.frenchrest.obecnidum.cz
Price: Kč1,700. Wine: Kč580.

Pálffy Palác Club
Situated in Malá Strana, the Pálffy Palace was built by the Lamintger family in the 17th century and is one of Prague’s best-kept secrets. Acquired by the State in 1895, it housed archives of valuable manuscripts and then, during the Communist period, became a centre for propaganda. After the 1989 Velvet Revolution, the palace was transferred to the Prague Conservatoire and, in 1994, the restaurant on the top floor was opened. The Baroque atmosphere is maintained with period antiques, prints of composers on the walls and fresh flower arrangements. The restaurant holds 60 but this is doubled in the summer when the terrace with its superb views is open. The excellent dishes include starters such as goat’s cheese rolled with apricot, crusted with walnuts, and served with endive leaves or for a main course of French baby chicken stuffed with pecan nuts and served with cranberry apple. Sunday brunch and weekday lunch specials are recommended. Reservations advisable.

Valdatejnská 14, Prague 1
Tel/fax: 25753 0522.
E-mail: palffy@seznam.cz
Website: www.palffy.cz
Price: Kč1,200. Wine: Kč110 (half-litre house carafe).

Restaurant Flambée
Flambée is housed in eighth-century vaults beneath the Betlem Palác in Staré Město and is one of Prague’s finest restaurants. The atmosphere is moodily Baroque with light colours, candles on tables and a piano in the evenings. The menu varies but dishes might include roast foie gras with truffle artichokes, stuffed lamb saddle under a pie crust, or young duck Nantais carved at the table. There is a six-course tasting menu at Kč2,800, while the business lunch at Kč1,197 is reasonable value. The wine vaults offer an exceptional and rare selection. Guests have included many heads of state, as well as Hollywood and music stars like Tom Cruise or Michael Jackson. Reservations recommended.

Betlémský Palác, Husova 5, Prague 1
Tel: 22424 8512. Fax: 22424 8513.
E-mail: flambee@flambee.cz
Website: www.flambee.cz
Price: Kč2,500. Wine: Kč680.

U Maltézských rytířů (At the Knights of Malta)
Situated in Malá Strana and housed in three Gothic and Romanesque cellar dining rooms, this candle-lit restaurant manages to be cosy and cheerful, despite rumours that it is haunted (although they do say that the ghost does not appear until after the restaurant closes). Dishes might include venison Chateaubriand, roast fillet of pike-perch filled with smoked salmon and leeks, or roast saddle of boar marinated in wild spices and served with mushroom sauce. The desserts are well known, including homemade apple strudel and nut dough pancakes with pear jam. Booking is advised as there are only 33 covers.

Prokopská 10 (off Karmelitská), Prague 1
Tel: 25753 3666.
Price: Kč1,200. Wine: Kč175.

Business

Dobromila A La Francaise
Czech, French and Continental influences mix in this ambitious restaurant in Staré Město. The simple exterior is matched inside, with dark pink walls and candles on the tables. The dishes are generally lighter than normal Czech cuisine and are based on recipes by the famous early 19th-century Czech chef, Magdalena Dobromila Rettigová, with a modern French influence. Classic dishes include carp boiled with wind vegetables, pheasant served Jewish style with traditional gnocchi and wild spices, or rabbit saddle with juniper and saffron sauce.

Jungmannova 10, Prague 1
Tel: 29624 6464.
E-mail: dobromila.fr@quick.cz
Price: Kč500. Wine: Kč390.

Hybernia
Providing large portions at modest prices in Staré Město, Hybernia has built up a large lunchtime following, which includes heads of state and their bodyguards. The simple ochre decor with arches complements the comfortable high-backed chairs. The main restaurant is divided into smoking and non-smoking sections, while there is a 14th-century basement vault for large parties, as well as a quiet courtyard in summer. Dishes include pork knee Muskateer (with horseradish, mustard and pickled cucumber) and chicken skewer with smoked salmon, bacon and vinegar herb sauce. The steaks are also good here.

Hybernská 7, Prague 1
Tel/fax: 22422 6004.
E-mail: hybernia@hyberniapraha.cz
Website: www.hyberniapraha.cz (Czech only)
Price: Kč400. Wine: Kč153.

Koliba Praha
This traditional restaurant offers good views over the city outside the old centre, as well as hearty Czech cooking. It is a no mere tourist trap here as authentic beef, game and fish dishes are cooked over an open fire and the delicious speciality soup makes for a satisfying homely starter. The generous portions mean that many visitors do not leave room for the homemade desserts, a serious mistake. A perfect venue for someone aiming to show clients that they know a good place to enjoy Czech food away from the tourist hordes of the old town.

Gregorova 8, Prague 11
Tel: 27294 1340. Fax: 27294 1344.
Email: info@kolibapraha.cz
Website: www.kolibapraha.cz
Price: Kč400. Wine: Kč200.

Posezení U Čiriny (Gathering at Čirina’s)
This restaurant has dark yellow walls with many old prints and serves predominantly Hungarian/Slovak specialities. The chef, Irena Kosiková, was once the personal chef to President Havel. Dishes include filet of pork with Hungarian salami and Niva (Czech blue cheese), or pork cutlet filled with chicken liver and bacon, or chicken steak au gratin with ham, peach and cheese.

Navratilova 6, Prague 2
Tel: 22223 1709.
Price: Kč300. Wine: Kč160.

U Prince
Just south of the famous clock tower in Old Town Square in Staré Město, U Prince offers outdoor dining under canvas (with very comfortable chairs and excellent heating in winter) and a large indoor dining room with chandeliers and many old prints on the walls. A wide range of dishes are available, including Prince’s teriyaki, beef sirloin, pork filet mignon and chicken breast, roasted zucchini with Niva (Czech blue cheese) on herb butter, or pork medallions on roasted pepper sauce. Seafood is also something of a speciality. The hot salad of lemon sole, served with mixed green salad, fresh dill and mustard seed vinegar is a highlight. There is live traditional jazz daily from 2000 inside.

Staroměstské náměstí 29, Prague 1
Tel: 22421 2807. Fax: 22421 3807.
E-mail: reserve@hoteluprince.cz
Website: www.hoteluprince.cz
Price: Kč500. Wine: Kč599.

Trendy

Bazaar Méditerranée
Situated in Malá Strana, this complex with labyrinthine interiors includes the restaurant and wine cellar, while a café and oyster bar are situated in the courtyard. The garden terrace outside also offers dining with excellent views. The vast basement with high ceilings includes a large proper dining room, a bar and a dance area. Every evening, there is live music followed by a DJ. The excellent selection of dishes includes chicken breasts with Niva (Czech blue cheese) and basil sauce, lamb couscous, variace ryb à la Bazaar (fish with crab claw, langouste and vegetables served with three sauces), coq au vin, or Moroccan kefta (lamb meatballs in vegetable ragout).

Nerudova 40, Prague 1
Tel: 25753 5050. Fax: 25753 4438.
E-mail: info@restaurantbazaar.cz
Website: www.restaurantbazaar.cz
Price: Kč700. Wine: Kč95.

Clementinium
This funky café/bar/restaurant enjoys an enviable location in the Old Town between the Old Town Square and the Charles Bridge. The ground floor level is a bright and modern space with contemporary art livening it up, while downstairs a more traditional Czech beer hall awaits. The food veers towards traditional recipes with goulash and crispy duck amongst the mains. The wine list is limited but they also serve Budvar and Pilsner Urquell at very reasonable prices.

Platnéřská 9, Prague 1
Tel/fax: 22481 3892.
E-mail: clementinum@f-b.cz
Website: www.clementinum.cz
Price: Kč400. Wine: Kč125.

Korea House
The understated Korean decor upstairs and the mixed Korean and Japanese decor in the basement complement the excellent food. Korean specialities include bulgogi (thinly sliced beef or pork cooked at the table), shab shab (beef and seafood with many vegetables) and chicken in hot sauce. They also offer over 200 types of traditional Korean kimchi. For two people, the hot crab stew is especially recommended. The downstairs restaurant can be booked for private parties and karaoke is also possible. Closed Sunday.

Sokolská 52, Prague 2 (near metro IP Pavlova)
Tel: 22426 6246. Fax: 22426 6247.
E-mail: info@koreahouse.cz
Website: www.koreahouse.cz
Price: Kč700. Wine: Kč270.

Malý Buddha (Little Buddha)
Up (both horizontally and vertically) the street from Bazaar Méditerranée and another good choice after a day exploring Hradčany (Prague Castle, the museums and the Loreto), Malý Buddha is a tearoom serving 51 varieties of tea and a restaurant specialising in Vietnamese temple food. As one would expect, the restaurant is softly Eastern in flavour with cane chairs and candles on the tables. Dishes include fried crab with salad, pork with bamboo shoots and soy beans and prawns with Chinese mushrooms and bamboo shoots. There are a number of vegetarian meals and a few unusual items like crocodile or shark with onion and garlic with chilli, and octopus or squid with spicy sauce. Healing wines are also a speciality at Kč45 per glass. No smoking. No credit cards. Closed Monday.

Ùvoz 46, Prague 1
Tel: 22051 3894.
Price: Kč300. Wine: Kč160.

Scandals
Scandals continues to attract attention and especially so with the addition of the basement cocktail bar further enhancing its reputation. Its location in Josefov on a corner site with high ceilings allows for vast window frontage, which complements the dark walls and narrow modern paintings. As well as excellent steaks and burgers, the menu includes teriyaki-glazed chicken with fried noodles and lemon sauce, or grilled catfish with buttered red wine sauce on a bed of wild mushrooms. Could not be any more handy for Old Town Square and one of the best options in this part of town, a firm favourite with the local cognoscenti.

Dlouhá 7, Prague 1
Tel: 22481 8320. Fax: 22481 4298.
E-mail: scandals@volny.cz
Price: Kč500. Wine: Kč390.

Budget

Ambiente Living
This very popular chain of restaurants offers inexpensive fresh food, and this branch has the likes of corn on the cob and a variety of salads. The eclectic international menu also covers Mexican fajitas and a massive range of Italian pasta and gnocchi dishes. More substantial main dishes include a variety of generous steaks, which are cooked to perfection. The chocolate brownies stake a fair claim to being the best in the city and the tiramisu is not far behind. One of the few restaurants in Prague that can genuinely say that if offers something for everyone.

Mánesova 59, Prague 2
Tel: 22272 7851
Price: Kč250. Wine: Kč195.

Chilli’s
Situated in the New Town, this is possibly the best Tex-Mex restaurant in Prague, with a Southwest American/Mexican decor that matches the food without allowing the restaurant to become a theme restaurant. The menu includes burritos, quesadillos, enchiladas and huevos rancheros, as well as a few Czech dishes like roast pork filet in a potato pancake. The Czech fritters with plum sauce and whipped cream are an extremely good dessert choice. No credit cards.

Vladislavova 18, Prague 1
Tel: 22494 9305.
Price: Kč250. Wine: Kč125.

Příčný Rez (Cross-Cut)
A restaurant in the New Town with a loyal following, Příčný Rez is situated on a corner site, with a balcony area and large windows. The atmosphere is contemporary but cosy; it is hoped that this is the first of a new generation of local restaurants. The basement becomes a dance club most nights. Good dishes include steaks, chicken roll stuffed with ham and cheese served with a light basil sauce, breast of duck in a tarragon lime sauce or salmon on a bed of fettuccine with gorgonzola sauce and capers. Service is excellent and the Sunday brunch is well worth a visit. Reservations recommended for the evening. No credit cards.

Příčná 3, at Reznická, Prague 1
Tel: 22223 3283.
Price: Kč225. Wine: Kč159.

Sate
Just up the hill from Malý Buddha (see Trendy above) and near to Prague Castle, Sate is an excellent Indonesian-inspired restaurant. The basic, slightly Eastern decor is dominated by a large aquarium. Signature dishes include nasi goreng (fried rice with meat and prawns) and opor ayam (chicken in coconut milk). Look out for the eminently quaffable Bintang Indonesian beer too, a refreshingly light change from all that heavy Czech beer. No credit cards.

Pohořelec 3, Prague 1
Tel: 22051 4552.
Price: Kč250. Wine: Kč110.

Thrakia
A budget basement Bulgarian restaurant with decorated wooden plates on the light ochre walls, Thrakia is an excellent venue for an inexpensive meal. Kebabs, homemade sausages, srmy (stuffed cabbage), moussaka, cold cucumber soup and Meaena skara (four types of meat roasted on a lava grate) are all good options on a limited menu. No credit cards.

Rubeaova 12, Prague 2 (behind the National Museum)
Tel: 22422 3490.
Price: Kč250. Wine: Kč135 (when available).

Personal Recommendations

Kampa Park
To the right of the Malá Strana end of the Charles Bridge, Kampa Park is an excellent choice, especially in the summer when diners can eat beside the Vltava River. Redecorated since the flood in August 2002, the restaurant is primarily painted in dark ochre with lights and chandeliers in holders with glass wings. Signature dishes include butter poached lobster served with creamy carrot purée, green peas and Jerusalem artichoke foam, the seared venison with parsnip fondant, figs, peach, foie gras and venison reduction and the pepper steak with crispy potato cake, onions, zucchini and cognac sauce. Guests have included Michael Douglas, Lou Reed, Hillary Clinton and Johnny Depp. Reservations recommended. Cigars and pipes are not allowed indoors before 2200.

Na Kampe 8b, Prague 1
Tel: 25753 2685. Fax: 25753 3223.
E-mail: kontakt@kampagroup.com
Website: www.kampagroup.com
Price: Kč1,750. Wine: Kč685.

Radegast
For an authentic Czech meal with no frills, head to the sturdy communal tables at Radegast, which is situated in the heart of old town. It has been going strong for years with a winning mix of chunky portions, grumpy waiters and lashings of ice cold Radegast beer. Expect sturdy goulash with thick-set dumplings and heart stopping desserts. Do not expect reservations, any semblance of customer service or credit cards to be accepted. Prague like it used to be within sniffing distance of the Old Town Square. Small beer garden out the back in summer too.

Templova 2, Prague 1
Tel: 22232 8237.
Price: Kč250. Wine: Kč160.

Restaurant Sarah Bernhardt
Around the corner from the Francouzská a Plzeñská Restaurace in the Obecní Dům (see Gastronomic above) is Prague’s other great Art Nouveau restaurant in the Hotel Paří~ in Staré Město. The decor is far less ornate that the Obecní Dům but still a classic example of this style, with original prints and adverts from the early 20th century. Dishes include duck breast marinated in fresh ginger, honey and lemon grass with Masala sauce, brewery goulash, or barracuda fillets with strong fish velouté. The monkfish ragout with roast and dried tomatoes, whole mussels and wild rice is divine. There is a pianist in the evenings and the Sunday brunch is good value.

Hotel Paří~, U Obecního Domu 1, Prague 1
Tel: 22219 5195. Fax: 22422 5475.
Website: www.hotel-pariz.cz
Price: Kč1,500. Wine: Kč280.

U Modré kachničky (At the Blue Duckling)
This intimate and esteemed restaurant in Staré Město is one of Prague’s best for game. The candlelit dining room set in a Renaissance-era home with vaulted ceilings and murals painted by the restaurant’s artistic owners is relaxing and appropriate for the quality of the dishes. The seasonal menu can include leg of boar, fallow deer medallions with juniper berries flambéed in borovicka (a gin-like spirit), and leg of rabbit in garlic with spinach and potato dumplings. The saddle of venison with rose-hip sauce and potato pancakes is another highlight and to finish there are pancakes with raspberries and strawberries flambéed in armagnac, the exceptional dessert here.

Michalská 16, Prague 1
Tel: 22421 3418.
Price: Kč600. Wine: Kč130.

U Zlatých Andělů (At the Golden Angel)
Most of the restaurants around or near the Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) offer good to excellent meals, although their location often leads to higher prices than one would pay elsewhere. U Zlatých Andělů is one of the old-style restaurants with well-spaced tables sitting under chandeliers. There have been restaurants on this site since the 18th century, with diners including Mozart, the Queen of Denmark and even the Russian anarchist Bakunin. Old-style Czech dishes include the roast beef with cream sauce, the venison steak with cranberries and the breast of chicken with peaches. However, the exceptional dish here is the half duck, roasted with sauerkraut, bacon and bread dumplings.

Celetná 29, Prague 1
Tel: 22232 8237. Fax: 22232 8069.
Price: Kč400. Wine: Kč120.