World City Guide

Mini Guide of Rio de Janeiro

City Overview

Rio de Janeiro is an awe-inspiring city of contrasts. Impossibly steep granite mountains jut out of the ocean between glorious stretches of golden sand, impeccable colonial buildings nestle in between modern glass skyscrapers and verdant forests tumble down hillsides into densely populated residential areas. It is a city high on life, a city of beach worship, football, samba and Carnival. And high above all this fun and frivolity stands Rio’s ever-present, iconic landmark – the statue of Christ the Redeemer.

The continuing strength of foreign currencies against the Brazilian Real and the national football team’s success in the 2002 World Cup have both helped to make Brazil, and Rio in particular, an increasingly popular and affordable year-round destination. And as the host of the forthcoming Pan American Games in 2007, the city is undergoing considerable regeneration and many new hotels are either built or being built. As well as the city’s well-known landmarks of Corcovado and Sugar Loaf mountains, Rio boasts a wealth of attractions and activities, plus great food, music and entertainment – enough to keep a visitor busy for any length of stay.

Situated in southeast Brazil, on the natural port of the Baía de Guanabara (Guanabara Bay), Rio is a city of over 10 million people squeezed between the ocean and the mountains. The cidade maravilhosa (marvellous city) is a melting pot of cultures and peoples in varying degrees of wealth or poverty. In Rio, the rich and poor live together and the exclusive areas stand in stark contrast and close proximity to the slum areas or favelas. But no matter what their background or economic standing, the Cariocas (as the citizens of Rio are known) are characterised by a passion and enthusiasm for life, which is on full show during Rio’s famous annual Carnival.

Central to the Carioca lifestyle is the beach. From dawn until dusk and even after dark, the residents of Rio can be found enjoying the long stretches of sandy coastline with which the city is blessed. The beach is not merely a place to absorb the sun’s rays but also an important venue for sports, socialising and even business. It is a people-watcher’s paradise – clothing is minimal and bodies are bronzed and beautiful. The famous Copacabana and Ipanema beaches are magnets for Brazilians and tourists alike.

It has taken 500 years for Rio to transform itself into one of the world’s greatest cities. On 1 January 1502, Portuguese explorers sailed into Guanabara Bay and named it Rio de Janeiro (River of January), under the mistaken impression that it was an enormous river mouth. The French attempted to gain control of the bay in 1555 but were finally evicted by the Portuguese in 1567.

The Portuguese colony was based on sugar cane and agricultural products throughout the 17th century, until the discovery of gold in the nearby Minas Gerais region led to the city’s emergence as a control, export and taxation centre. Black slaves formed the majority of the population in these early days of trading and the African influence is still present in the city’s culture. The capital of colonial Brazil was moved from Bahia (now Salvador) in 1763 to Rio de Janeiro and the city began to flourish, especially when coffee became the predominant export in the 19th century. After the Portuguese monarchy was exiled from Portugal, when Napoleon conquered Lisbon, Rio became their home and eventually the capital of an independent Brazilian Empire. Finally, Brazil became a Republic in 1889; Rio de Janeiro remained its capital until 1960, when the Federal government was transferred to Brasilia.

Rio has continued to grow and has become a popular destination not only for tourists but also for migrants from other parts of the country. Despite its development, the city still has more than its fair share of social problems. Strong divisions exist between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have-nots’. Attempts have been made to curtail crime, although both residents and tourists should remain alert to petty thieves.

Rio’s best season is undoubtedly the summer months, between December and February, culminating with Carnival. Temperatures can rise to around 40ºC (104ºF) or more, which is ideal weather if tourists do as the Brazilians do and visit the beaches rather than rush around.

Getting There By Air

Aeroporto Internacional do Rio de Janeiro/Galeão Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport (GIG)
Tel: (21) 3398 4526/7. Fax: (21) 3393 2288.
Website: www.infraero.gov.br

Rio International Airport is located on Ilha do Governador, in Guanabara Bay, some 20km (13 miles) north of the city centre. It is the main air portal for Brazil and an important hub for flights from Europe and North America, as well as for major domestic flights, serving over six million passengers per year.

Major airlines: Brazil’s national airline, Varig (tel: (21) 4003 7000; website: www.varig.com.br), connects Rio to international and domestic destinations. Many airlines operate frequent flights to Rio International Airport, including Aerolineas Argentinas, Air France, American Airlines, British Airways, Continental, Iberia, Lufthansa, TAP, United Airlines and Vasp.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a 24-hour bank, several bureaux de change, ATMs, a selection of restaurants, shops, duty free, a pharmacy, post office, 24-hour hospital, tourist information and car hire from Avis, Hertz and Localiza.

Business facilities: Guests at the airport’s Luxor Aeroporto hotel (tel: (21) 2468 8998; fax: (21) 3398 3983; website: www.luxor-hotels.com) may use the hotel’s 24-hour business centre, which has Internet access, fax and phone lines. Diners Club cardholders have access to the Diners Club VIP Lounge (tel: (21) 2462 3380; website: www.dinersclub.com.br), which provides refreshments and business facilities. The lounge is open daily 0600–2300 and is located on the second floor at the international voyages registration desk.

Transport to the city: Real/Reitur Turismo (tel: (21) 2564 2158; website: www.realautoonibus.com.br) operates air-conditioned buses from the first floor of the airport to Barra da Tijuca, via the city centre, the Rodoviária Novo Rio bus terminal, Santos Dumont Airport (see below), Flamengo and along the seafront between Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, where many hotels are situated. The bus runs approximately every 30 minutes daily 0530–2300 (journey time – 45 minutes to 1 hour) and costs R$8 (per journey). Fixed-rate municipal taxis can be booked at the kiosk near the airport arrivals gate. The fare is R$65 to Copacabana and R$47 to the city centre.

Aeroporto Santos Dumont (SDU)
Tel: (21) 3814 7070. Fax: (21) 2533 2218.
Website: www.infraero.gov.br

Situated beside the city, on Guanabara Bay, the domestic airport of Santos Dumont serves the Rio to São Paulo shuttle (departing every 30 minutes 0630–1845, with a limited service on weekends) and other small domestic flights, air taxis and private planes.

Major airlines: National carrier Varig (tel: (21) 4003 7000; website: www.varig.com.br) flies to major destinations in Brazil. GOL, Ocean Air, TAM, Team and Vasp also provide domestic services.

Airport facilities: Tourist information, left-luggage, restaurants, bookshop, souvenir shop, Internet access, 24-hour banking and exchange facilities are available along with car hire from Avis and Hertz.

Business facilities: Diners Club cardholders have access to the Diners Club VIP Lounge (tel: (21) 2532 4271; website: www.dinersclub.com.br), which provides refreshments as well as business facilities, including a fax machine, photocopying, computers and Internet connection. The lounge is open daily 0600–2200 and is located on the main floor in arrivals.

Transport to the city: The airport is served by the Real/Reitur Turismo (tel: (21) 2564 2158; website: www.realautoonibus.com.br) bus service into the city centre (see above), which costs R$5 (journey time – 20 minutes). Taxis are also readily available and cost R$14 to the Centro. A trip to Copacabana costs R$29. It is a 15-minute walk to the Centro from Santos Dumont airport.

Approximate flight times to Rio de Janeiro: From London is 11 hours; from New York is 10 hours; from Los Angeles is 14 hours; from Toronto is 12 hours and from Sydney is 20 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: The international departure tax is US$36. Domestic departure tax is between US$3 and US$5. Both are payable upon departure, in either R$ or US$, although not a combination of the two.

Getting There By Water

The Docas do Rio de Janeiro Autoridade Portuária (Rio Docks Port Authority), Avenida Rodrigues Alves, 20 Praça Mauá (tel: (21) 2219 9542/3; website: www.portosrio.gov.br/rio) regulates all water traffic in Guanabara Bay. Cruise ships anchor in the port during the summer and during Carnival. Ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran services depart from Estação das Barcas, beside the Praça XV de Novembro in the Centro. Tickets are available for purchase here. The ferry terminal is very basic and tourist services are limited. Nevertheless, there are many banks (with ATMs), shops and restaurants in the immediate area.

Boat services: The only ferry routes from Rio are local. Rio is an extremely popular destination for cruise ships and many thousands of passengers disembark at the city each year. Companies that include Rio in their itineraries include Swann Hellenic (tel: (UK number) 02380 683606; website: www.swanhellenic.com) and P&O (tel: (UK number) 0845 3555 333; website: www.pocruises.com). Costa Cruzeiros (tel: (21) 2220 0505; website: www.costacruzeiros.com.br) operates cruises to and from Rio.

Transport to the city: Regular public buses (see Public Transport) run to the Centro, Copacabana and Ipanema. Taxis are also readily available. The Centro is a short walk from the Estação das Barcas and Barcas Metrô station is situated nearby.

Getting There By Road

Brazil has an expansive system of federal highways, designated by the letters ‘BR’, which account for 70% of the road network. Minor roads, provided and maintained by the state of Rio de Janeiro, are designated by the letters ‘RJ’. Road conditions are poor and lacking in signs. The national speed limit on highways is 110kph (68mph) but drivers seldom adhere to the rule. Accidents and road fatalities are distressingly common.

The minimum driving age is 18 years. Foreigners should carry an International Driving Permit as well as a driving licence from their country of origin and third-party liability insurance is required by law. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road and the rules are generally similar to those in the USA. By law, both driver and passenger must wear their seatbelts. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.06%.

Touring Club Do Brasil (tel: 0800 26 4141 or (21) 3824 0070; website: www.touring.com.br) provides information and assistance to foreign motorists in cities and on highways, providing the driver is a member of a similar organisation in his/her own country. Car insurance and 24-hour roadside assistance is also offered.

Emergency breakdown service:
Touring Club Do Brasil 0800 26 4141 or (21) 3824 0070.

Routes to the city: The BR-116 from Porto Alegre passes through Curatiba, where it picks up traffic from Foz do Iguaçu and continues on through São Paulo, all the way to Rio de Janeiro. Coastal highway BR-101 runs from Natal, through Salvador to Rio de Janeiro and beyond. However, there is a faster inland route from Salvador on BR-116, which connects with the BR-040 from Brasilia at Belo Horizonte. The BR-116 and BR-040 lead into Rio along Avenida Brasil. The main highway continues along the coast before emerging from Túnel Novo at Copacabana. From here, the Avenida Atlântica runs alongside the beach to Ipanema and Leblon.

Approximate driving times to Rio: From São Paulo – 6 hours; Brasilia – 20 hours; Foz do Iguaçu – 21 hours; Porto Alegre – 26 hours; Salvador – 28 hours.

Coach services: International and interstate buses operate from the Terminal Rodoviária Novo Rio, Avenida Francisco Bicalho, in Santo Cristo (tel: (21) 3213 1800; website: www.novorio.com.br). The station consists of an arrivals and departures side and has a tourist office that is able to help with transportation advice into the city. Facilities include left-luggage and a bureau de change (for cash only). Long-distance coaches also depart from the more conveniently located Menezes Cortes terminal, Rua São Jose, Centro (tel: (21) 2544 6667).

International services go to Asuncion (Paraguay), Buenos Aires (Argentina), Montevideo (Uruguay) and Santiago (Chile). Pluma (tel: 0300 789 1300; website: www.pluma.com.br) serves international and national routes.

Interstate buses travel to major Brazilian cities and tourist centres. There are many service providers, including Pluma (see above), Real Expresso (tel: 0300 788 7325 or (61) 2106 7100; website: www.realexpresso.com.br), Viação Cometa (tel: (11) 3868 5800; website: www.viacaocometa.com.br) and Expresso Brasileiro (tel: (21) 2253 5121), which operates a service to São Paulo.

Getting There By Rail

Rail travel in Brazil is extremely limited and is not a viable option for travellers getting to or around the country. There is no single national rail company and any passenger services are few and far between. Trains that do run are often slower than the buses. SuperVia (tel: (21) 2588 9494; website: www.supervia.com.br) operates an urban service from Rio’s Central do Brasil station.

There are two rail terminals located in the city’s Centro area – Estação Dom Pedro II, Central do Brasil, Praça Cristiano Ottoni (tel: (21) 2296 1244), and Estação Barão de Mauá, Leopoldina, Avenida Francisco Bicalho.

Rail services: Most train services from Rio are for cargo. The overnight train to São Paulo, Trem de Plata, has been suspended and there are no replacement services.

Transport to the city: Estação Dom Pedro II is situated right in the Centro area, opposite Central Metrô station. The closest Metrô stations to Estação Barão de Mauá are São Cristóvão and Estácio. Visitors should take the buses marked Centro. Taxis are also available at the stations.

Getting Around

Public Transport
There is no unified public transport system in Rio, although SECTRAN (tel: (21) 2299 3468; fax: (21) 2533 5892; website: www.sectran.rj.gov.br) oversees all forms of organised public transport.

The underground service provided by Metrô Rio (tel: (21) 3982 3600; website: www.metrorio.com.br) is safe, clean, air-conditioned, fast and efficient, although limited in the area it covers. There are two lines in operation from Monday to Saturday 0500–0000; Sundays and holidays 0700-2300. Line 1 runs from Siqueira Campos (Copacabana) to Sãens Pena (Tijuca), while Line 2 runs from Estácio (Centro) to Pavuna, in the north of the city. Metrô tickets are only available for purchase at the stations – R$2 for a single journey or R$20 for a carnet of 10 tickets. Visitors are advised to keep their wits about them when emerging from stations into unfamiliar surroundings, as pickpockets are common.

Buses are cheap, regular and run to all parts of the city. Many different companies operate the municipal services, including Real (tel: (21) 2263 7689) and Novo Horizonte (tel: (21) 2233 7210). Services operate 24 hours and are relatively safe – incidences of crime are rare, although travellers must exercise caution during rush hour and at night, when pickpockets prey. Tickets are available for purchase from the conductor, who sits next to the turnstile at the back of the bus. These cost R$1.60 per journey or R$1.70 on the air-conditioned frescão buses.

An integrated Metrô and bus ticket (one way combined fare), called Metrô/Ônibus, is available for R$3.20 at Metrô stations.

Taxis
Yellow taxis operate with a meter and can be hailed on the street. The flag (bandeira) indicates the tariff and usually reads ‘1’. However, after 2300, on Sunday and on holidays the tariff will be ‘2’, which indicates a price hike of about 20%. Taxis are fairly priced, although some late-night drivers might quote excessive fixed prices. Travellers should check that the meter is reset and indicates the correct tariff. The minimum fare is currently R$3.30, plus R$0.98 per kilometre. Tourists are strongly advised to only use taxis that have an official identification sticker in the window.

Special taxis (either blue or red) operate from the airports. Payment is by pre-paid vouchers, which are available for purchase at airport kiosks.

Radio taxis are safe and reliable but 30% more expensive than yellow taxis. Providers include Central de Táxi (tel: (21) 2593 2598), Coopertramo (tel: (21) 2560 2022; website: www.radio-taxi.com.br) and Transcoopass (tel: (21) 2560 4888 or 2590 6891; www.transcoopass.com.br). The minimum fare for radio taxis is currently R$3.30. Brazilians generally do not tip taxi drivers, although rounding the total fare up to the nearest Real is appreciated.

Limousines
Most hotels and travel agencies can provide a private car with an English-speaking guide. One company, Freedom Noivas (tel: (21) 3805 2253), has Mercedes Benz mini-limousines with English- or Portuguese-speaking drivers, for R$350 per hour.

Ferries and water transport
Ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans depart from the Estação das Barcas for the commuter route across the Guanabara Bay to Niterói and Paquetá island – both are popular as day trips from Rio. Cheap, regular and scenic, the route is plied by a number of companies. Barcas S A (tel: (21) 2533 7524 or 2532 6274; www.barcas-sa.com.br) operate daily ferry services, which are cheaper, slower and better for taking in the scenery, and catamarans. Transtur/Aerobarcos do Brasil (tel: (21) 2533 4343/2211) provide daily ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran services. Boat and yacht hire is available from Marina da Glória (tel: (21) 2205 6716).

Driving in the City
With such a good public transport system, there is little need for tourists to drive in Rio de Janeiro. Those who attempt it need nerves of steel and a solid sense of direction to cope with the hectic traffic and confusing one-way streets. However, driving is a good option for local excursions and visiting some of the further beaches. When driving, seatbelts should be worn and extreme caution employed. Doors should be kept locked. Rio’s traffic is a law unto itself and parking is difficult everywhere, although practically impossible in the Centro. Rush hour is Monday to Friday 0800–0900 and again at 1700–1900, although some areas are bumper to bumpers at many hours of the day. For visitors making a day trip to Rio by car, the best option is to park in a secure car park, leaving the car with an attendant. Parking in Rio is very cheap and costs from R$2 per day.

Car Hire
There are many car hire companies in Rio, including international providers. The minimum age to hire a car is 21 years, although this is sometimes even higher, depending on company policy. Insurance is essential. A credit card is usually required as security but also for payment, seeing as many companies are reluctant to accept traveller’s cheques or US dollars. Drivers must be in possession of an International Driving Permit along with a driving licence from their country of origin. Rates include the basic third-party cover, although collision waiver and personal accident insurance are extra.

Some major companies with car hire offices in the city include Avis, Avenida Princesa Isabel 350, Copacabana (tel (21) 2543 8481; website: www.avis.com.br), Hertz, Avenida Princesa Isabel 500, Copacabana (tel: 0800 701 7300 or (21) 2275 7440; website: www.hertz.com.br), and Localiza, Avenida Princesa Isabel 150, Copacabana (tel: (21) 2275 3340; website: www.localiza.com.br). These companies also have offices at the international airport.

Rates vary according to the model of the car and whether or not it has air conditioning. Prices start at around R$89 per day or R$525 per week for a basic car with unlimited mileage and go up to around R$318 per day or R$1,911 per week for an executive vehicle with unlimited mileage. It is sometimes possible for drivers to negotiate discounts and is usually cheaper for visitors to make an advance reservation from abroad.

Bicycle Hire
Rio has 74km (46 miles) of cycle paths that, wherever they exist, are very much preferable to riding in the city’s traffic. Most paths run alongside beaches and extend intermittently from the Marina da Glória, Centro, through Flamengo, Copacabana and Ipanema, to Barra da Tijuca. Six kilometres (4 miles) of cycle paths exist in the Tijuca National Park.

Energetic visitors can hire bicycles from Special Bike, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 135B, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2267 7778 or 2521 2686; website: www.specialbike.com.br), for R$60 a day or R$160 a week.

Business

Business Profile
Rio is Brazil’s top tourist attraction and consequently the city’s main industries revolve around tourism and the service and financial sectors. Banking is important and the city is home to the second most active Stock Exchange in Brazil, the Bolsa da Valores do Brasil. Rio has the second best economy in South America, behind that of São Paulo, also in Brazil. Rio is also a major player in Brazil’s industrial production and the city’s industries are responsible for producing goods such as processed foods, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, clothing, furniture and textiles.

Brazil has a large economy with well-developed mining, manufacturing, service and agriculture sectors. After a few slow years, the economy is growing again (GDP growth was 5.2% in 2004), but annual inflation (7.36% in February 2005) and the country’s unemployment level (10.6% in March 2005) remain high. The city’s unemployment rate of 8.5% (in December 2004) remains a little lower than the national average. Nevertheless, the disparity between rich and poor is wide and particularly evident in the city, where crime has become an unofficial industry in its own right.

The economy became stable following the introduction of a new currency, the Real, in 1994. Introduced at a value level with the US dollar, the development brought renewed confidence and an economic boom to the country. But this success came to an end when world recession and budgetary mismanagement finally led to the devaluation of the Real in 1999. The IMF soon resumed lending to Brazil and the economy bounced back against all expectations. But Argentina’s debt default and devaluation of the Peso in January 2002 led to further instability in the region. Brazil’s economy and currency looked set to follow suit, until the IMF came forward with a US$10 billion loan package that stabilised the country. The new president, Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, of the left-wing Partido dos Trabalhadores (PT) took office on 1 January 2003. The business community at first worried that the president’s social policies would harm the economy but his government appears to have held confidence. However, many people are upset that the promised social reforms have not materialised.

Foreigners have been allowed to invest in the Brazilian Stock Exchange since 1996. To entice more foreign investment, the government abolished trade restrictions, privatised industries and lowered tariffs. Due to the number of consulates in the city, many companies favour Rio as a South American base. Multinational companies and key Brazilian companies based in Rio include Shell, Texaco, Esso, Petrobras, Embratel and Petroleo Ipiraga. Most businesses are located in the Centro area of the city or in Barra de Tijuca, where Rio’s massive conference centre, Riocentro, is situated. A new convention centre is being constructed in the downtown area, which will boost Rio’s image as an international business destination.

Business Etiquette
Business cards are exchanged by way of introduction and businesspeople expect to deal with someone of an equal business status. Dress code is generally smart and suits are necessary when meeting heads of companies or attending semi-formal social functions in exclusive clubs and restaurants. Normal business hours are Monday to Friday 0900–1800. Quite often, however, business is done over dinner in a restaurant. Visitors would be advised to bring gifts, such as local confectionery.

Brazilians are more casual than their Latin American counterparts but it is important to dress neatly and offer respect. At the beginning of a conversation, at least, strangers should always be addressed with the formal ‘o senhor’ or ‘a senhora’ until they use the informal ‘tu’ or ‘você’. Professional people will often be heard being addressed as ‘o doutor’ (‘doctor’), whatever their line of business. Although many executives will speak English, it is advisable for business visitors to conduct business in Portuguese if possible.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Rio’s main attraction is its scenery. There is a stunning view at every turn, as steep, granite mountains (such as Corcovado and Pão de Açúcar) rise dramatically above the Centro skyscrapers and curved golden beaches. And it is on these beaches (the most famous of which are Copacabana and Ipanema) that the energetic and leisurely lifestyle of the Cariocas is constantly on show. But the city is also brimming with a wealth of cultural attractions.

Rio is divided into three zones: the Centro, Zona Norte (north) and Zona Sul (south). Maracanã Stadium is located in Zona Norte. Many of Rio’s historic buildings and its museums and galleries are located in and around the Centro. However, Rio’s biggest attractions, including its beaches, are found in Zona Sul. Because Rio’s districts are spread out, it is best for tourists to take public transport to a particular area and then explore it on foot. Although security has been stepped up in many areas, thanks to the increased numbers of tourist police, visitors are still advised to keep their wits about them and carry only the minimum amount of money and possessions required.

Tourist Information
Riotur – City of Rio de Janeiro Tourism Authority
Rua da Assembléia 10–9, Centro
Tel: (21) 2217 7575. Fax: (21) 2531 1272.
E-mail: riotur.riotur@pcrj.rj.gov.br
Website: www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0900–1800.

Tourist Information Center
Avenida Princesa Isabel, 183, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2541 7522. Fax: (21) 2542 0694.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0900–1800.

Other branches and booths are located at both airports, the Rodoviária Novo Rio bus terminal and the Rio Sul Shopping Centre.

Alô Rio (tel: (21) 2542 8080, 2542 8004 or 0800 707 1808) is a tourist information service in English and/or Portuguese, operating Monday to Friday 0900–1800.

Passes
There are no dedicated tourist passes currently available.

Key Attractions

Corcovado (Hunchback)
The Corcovado (Hunchback) mountain, so named because of its distinctive shape, is home to probably the most memorable and identifying image of the city, that of the Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) statue. Inaugurated in 1931, the iconic statue stands on top of the 710m (2,330ft) mountain and is itself 30m (99ft). The site is best visited by the historic train, which winds its way up a steep track through the forest to a station just below the summit (journey time – 20 minutes). Weather permitting, there are stunning views of the city, beaches and the whole bay area below. After dark, floodlights illuminate the statue, providing a dramatic and spectacular sight visible throughout the city.

Corcovado Railroad Station
Rua Cosme Velho 513, Cosme Velho
Tel: (21) 2558 1329.
E-mail: trem@corcovado.com.br
Website: www.corcovado.com.br
Transport: Bus 180, 181, 182, 183 or 184 from Centro and Flamengo; bus 583 or 584 from Botafago, Copacabana and Ipanema (marked Cosme Velho).
Opening hours: Daily 0830–1900; first train up 0830, last train down 1830 (departures every 30 minutes).
Admission: R$30 (including train and entrance).

Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf)
This conical mountain vies with the Corcovado for the visitor’s vote of best overall panoramic view. Originally called Pau-nh-Açquá (high, pointed peak) by the Tupi Indians, it was renamed Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) by the Portuguese, who thought the shape of the 394m (1,293ft) granite rock resembled moulds used to set sugar cane.

Climbers frequently ascend the rock but the less strenuous and most popular route to the top is by cable car – a system that has been in operation since 1912. The present Italian-style cars complete the journey in two stages. The first leg of the ascent takes visitors from Praia Vermelha to a height of 220m (720ft) above sea level, stopping at the summit of Morro da Urca. The second leg completes the journey to the Sugar Loaf over a distance of 750m (2,460ft). The final stop offers fine views of the beaches, the city, the mountains of Tijuca National Park and the islands of Guanabara Bay. The area also has several, safe, wooded trails, where it is possible for one to escape the majority of the tourists who frequently arrive at the summit.

Pão de Açúcar cable car station
Avenida Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha
Tel: (21) 2546 8400. Fax: (21) 2546 8440.
E-mail: bondinho@bondinho.com.br
Website: www.bondinho.com.br
Transport: Bus 107 from Centro, Flamengo and Botafogo; bus 511 or 512 from Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon.
Opening hours: Daily 0810–2200 (the cable car leaves every half hour or when they have enough people).
Admission: R$30.

Copacabana
A large suburb of Rio, Copacabana is best known for its amazing, wide, sandy beach that stretches for 4km (2.4 miles). The beach is hugely popular with both residents and tourists and usually lies beneath a mass of beautiful and fit bodies. Carioca girls, in minimalist bikinis, bask in the scorching sun alongside families with their youngsters. The beach is always a hive of activity. Displaying the Brazilians’ passion for sport, joggers and power walkers use the trademark wavy black and white mosaic path that fringes the beach, cyclists whizz by in the cycle lane and the soccer fields and volleyball courts are in constant use. Strong currents can prove dangerous for swimmers, although an excellent lifeguard system exists.

The fishing community of Copacabana only became part of Rio when the Light and Power Company of Canada blasted through rock to establish tunnels for the Rio Tramway. In 1923, the Copacabana Palace Hotel was inaugurated and other hotels, nightclubs and casinos attracted the rich and famous during the 1930s and 1940s, although the area fell in popularity when gambling was made illegal in 1946. Copacabana soon became significant both commercially and residentially. Nowadays, hotels and apartment blocks dominate the skyline along the busy avenues and crowded beach. It is advisable for visitors to take the very minimum of possessions and money, as the easily identifiable tourist is an obvious target for petty thieves.

Túnel Novo to Avenida Atlântica (along the beach)
Transport: Arcoverde Metrô station; bus 119, 121, 123, 127, 128, 173, 177 or 512.

Ipanema
This sophisticated neighbourhood is an enticing blend of beach, bars and boutiques. The area became famous worldwide with the success of the song, The Girl from Ipanema. The song was written by composer Tom Jobim and lyricist and poet Vinicius de Moraes, who were inspired by local beauty Heloisa Pinheiro, who walked past the Velosa Bar each day when returning from school. The very bar where they sat, now known as Garota de Ipanema (Girl from Ipanema), is a popular meeting place for locals and a place of pilgrimage for visitors.

The focus of Ipanema is undoubtedly the beach, which is nestled between Aproador and Leblon beaches, beneath the imposing peak of Pedro Dois Irmãos. Like Copacabana, many people visit Ipanema to exercise or lie on the sand. But shopping is also a popular pastime and the area boasts a variety of fashionable and expensive outlets. Ipanema is also home to art galleries, a Sunday arts and crafts market known as the Hippie Fair and workshop museums for jewellery shops Amsterdam Sauer and H Stern.

Avenida Atlântica to Ipanema
Transport: Bus 474, 523, 572, 583 or 584 (marked Ipanema or Leblon).

Centro (Centre)
The Centro provides a worthwhile break to beach life. One of the main attractions is the square, Praça 15 de Novembro, where the 18th-century Paço Imperial (Imperial Palace) and other grand buildings are located. Another interesting place is the Museu Histórico Nacional (National History Museum), which dates from 1762 and contains a fascinating collection of art, papers, weapons and other assorted artefacts documenting Brazil’s history. Many churches are scattered around the area too. One of the most impressive is the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária (Church of Our Lady of the Candles), with its domed roof, marble interior, Portuguese wood carvings and fascinating stained-glass windows. The Mosteiro de São Bento (Monastery of St Benedict) is a 17th-century monastery and UNESCO World Heritage Site, with an opulent interior of gilded woodcarvings and historic paintings. Art lovers will appreciate the Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts), where paintings by Brazil’s most prominent 19th- and 20th-century artists are exhibited along with examples of African and folk art.

Centro district
Transport: Cinelândia, Carioca or Uruguaiana Metrô stations; any bus marked Centro.

Paço Imperial (Imperial Palace)
Praça 15 de Novembro 48
Tel: (21) 2533 4491 or 2533 7762. Fax: (21) 2533 4359.
Website: www.pacoimperial.com.br
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1200–1800.
Admission: Free.

Museu Histórico Nacional (National History Museum)
Praça Marechal Âncora
Tel: (21) 2240 2092. Fax: (21) 2220 6290.
Website: www.museuhistoriconacional.com.br
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 1000–1730, Sat and Sun 1400–1800. Closed Mondays.
Admission: R$6.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária (Church of our Lady of the Candles)
Praça Pio X
Tel: (21) 2233 2324.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0800–1600, Sat and Sun 0900–1300.
Admission: Free.

Mosteiro de São Bento (Monastery of St Benedict)
Rua Dom Gerardo 68
Tel: (21) 2291 7122. Fax: (21) 2263 5679.
Website: www.osb.org.br
Opening hours: Daily 0700–1200 and 1400–1800.
Admission: Free.

Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts)
Avenida Rio Branco 199
Tel: (21) 2240 0068. Fax: (21) 2262 6067.
Website: www.mnba.gov.br
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 1000–1800, Sat and Sun 1400–1800.
Admission: R$4; concessions available; free Sun.

Complexo Esportivo do Maracanã (Maracanã Sporting Complex)
Maracanã is the epicentre of Brazilian football and a Mecca for sports fans from around the world. The Estádio Maracanã became the world’s biggest stadium, capable of holding around 200,000 people, when it was built to host the 1950 World Cup Final. Tours of the stadium include a visit to the changing rooms, access to the stands for a view of the pitch and the opportunity to stand in the bronzed footprints of Pelé.

Football is a national obsession and even local matches are oversubscribed. Matches take place here up to three times a week, with evening kick-offs (see Sport). The atmosphere in the stadium during games is unique to Rio and an experience to remember. The almost Colosseum-like surroundings serve as a fitting venue for a multitude of fireworks, colourful flags, banners and the sounds of samba drums and whistles.

Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo, Maracanã
Tel: (21) 2568 9962.
Website: www.suderj.rj.gov.br
Transport: Maracanã Metrô station on Line 2; bus 238 or 239 from Centro, 455 from Copacabana or 464 from Ipanema and Leblon.
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1700; match days 0800–1100.
Admission: R$3 (non-match).

Further Distractions

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon)
This lake is a huge open space in the middle of the city, offering fantastic views of the Ipanema skyline, Corcovado and the Christ the Redeemer statue. At the weekend, visitors can join the city’s residents for a stroll or cycle on part of or the entire 8km (5 mile) path that surrounds it. There are a number of parks, exercise stations and leisure facilities positioned around Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. Visitors can join families on the lake, by hiring one of the swan-shaped pedaloes. Nearby is the Jardim Botânico, a landscaped garden containing over 8,000 Brazilian and imported species of flora. In the evening, the lakeside remains alive, as people dine at the 25 kiosks, each serving a different cuisine from various parts of Brazil or around the world. Some also provide live music for entertainment.

Bordered by Leblon, Ipanema, Jardim Botânico and Botafogo districts
Transport: Bus marked Leblon, Ipanema or Jardim Botânico (visitors should hop off at the lake or take a map and walk from these districts).

Jardim Botânico (Botanical Gardens)
Rua Jardim Botânico
Tel: (21) 2294 9349.
Website: www.jbrj.gov.br
Transport: Bus marked Jardim Botânico.
Opening hours: Daily 0800–1700.
Admission: R$4.

Museu Internacional do Arte Naif (International Naive Art Museum)
The Museu Internacional do Arte Naif contains one of the most comprehensive collections of naive art (folk art) in the world. The simplistic, colourful exhibits line the walls of an historic mansion, situated next door to Corcovado Railroad Station. The museum displays a selection of its collection of over 8,000 works of folk art, which were created between the 14th century and the present day by artists from Brazil and 130 other countries. Works include a huge painting depicting Rio de Janeiro and Guanabara Bay, as well as a mural that tells the history of Brazil and is the largest naive art canvas in the world. The museum also displays temporary exhibits by renowned naive artists throughout the year.

Rua Cosme Velho 561, Cosme Velho
Tel: (21) 2205 8612. Fax: (21) 2205 8884.
E-mail: mian@museunaif.com.br
Website: www.museunaif.com.br
Transport: Bus 180, 181, 182, 183 or 184 from Centro and Flamengo; bus 583 or 584 from Botafogo, Copacabana and Ipanema (marked Cosme Velho).
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 1000–1800, Sat and Sun 1200–1800.
Admission: R$8.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
A number of companies provide specialist guided walks in Rio, available on request. Roteiros Culturais (tel: (21) 9911 3829; website: www.culturalrio.com.br) runs cultural sightseeing tours to Rio’s historic and colonial landmarks, led by History of Art Professor Carlos Roquette. Tours can be tailored to personal preferences and time available, and cost R$25 per hour. The Downtown Rio Tour crosses the best areas of the oldest neighbourhood in town, from the Opera House District to the oldest and richest Baroque church in Rio.

Rio Hiking (tel: (21) 2507 4417 or 9721 0594 (mobile); website: www.riohiking.com.br) provides English language guided walks in Tijuca forest and up Rio’s mountain peaks. The price, including an ascent of Tijuca Peak, pick-up and lunch, is R$125 for five hours or RS$160 for eight hours.

Jeep Tours
Several companies offer jeep tours to out-of-the-way attractions. Rio by Jeep (tel: (21) 2575 8626 or 9693 8800 (mobile); website: www.riobyjeep.com) specialises in in-depth tours of Tijuca National Park and out-of-town beaches. Rio by Jeep offers two ecological tours of Tijuca forest. The ‘National Park Tour’ takes three and a half hours and costs R$75, while the ‘Complete Tour’ is longer, at five and a half hours, costing R$100. Hotel pick-up can be arranged.

Jeep Tour (tel: (21) 2589 0883 (reservations) or 9977 9610 (mobile); website: www.jeeptour.com.br) offers a number of different jeep tours, as well as walking tours, panoramic helicopter tours and combined tours in Rio and further afield. A four-hour tour of Tijuca forest costs R$85, while a three-hour tour of the Favela de Rocinha, the largest slum in South America, costs R$75. Hotel pick-up can be arranged.

Helicopter Tours
For a bird’s eye view of the city, Helisight (tel: (21) 2511 2141 (week days) or 2542 7895 (weekends and holidays); website: www.helisight.com.br) offers sightseeing flights of various lengths and itineraries. A 15-minute flight covers the city centre, the Sambódromo, Maracanã stadium, Corcovado and the statue of Christ, Pão de Açúcar and Copacabana and Ipanema beaches and costs R$350 per person. Departures are from one of three helipads, located at Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, Dona Marta Belvedere (access route to the statue of Christ) and Sugar Loaf (cable car’s first stop). Helipads are open daily 0900–1800 and night flights are also available from the Sugar Loaf and Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon helipads.

Boat Tours
Saveiros Tour (tel: (21) 2224 6990; website: www.saveiros.com.br) operates a cultural boat tour around Guanabara Bay, providing a unique viewpoint of the city and Niterói island. The two-hour trip departs from the Gloria Marina daily at 0930. Tickets cost R$25 and are available for purchase at the Marina.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Parque Nacional da Tijuca (Tijuca National Park): Occupying an area of 120 sq km (46 sq miles), Tijuca National Park (tel: (21) 2492 2252/5407) is the world’s largest urban forest and Brazil’s only inner-city national park. The thick vegetation tumbles down steep hillsides into the backdoors of many of Rio’s neighbourhoods. Much of the forest was cleared for coffee plantations in the 19th century but a successful reforestation project has restored the Atlantic Rainforest habitat, home to hundreds of species of plants and wildlife. Natural attractions include eucalyptus, jacaranda and jakfruit trees, forest flowers, and many species of birds, plus ocelots, monkeys, insects and reptiles. There are also waterfalls, grottoes and high viewpoints to be discovered. There are hundreds of walking trails through the forest. Paths are well signposted and maps are available at the park entrance. For travellers who do not want to go alone, many companies offer guided walks (see Tours of the City). There are also 6km (3.7 miles) of cycle paths to be explored. If all this sounds too strenuous, there are various picnic spots and lookout points for relaxation and enjoyment of the fresh air and natural surroundings.

Buses marked Boa Vista, such as bus 231 from Centro or 454 from Copacabana, go to Tijuca. The entrance to the park is at Praça Afonso Viseu, Alto da Boa Vista. The park is open daily 0600–2100 and admission is free.

For a Whole Day

Paraty: An enchanting colonial town, situated approximately 400km (250 miles) south of Rio, Paraty has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town’s churches, squares and townhouses with flourishing courtyards are still much as they were when Paraty was a chief port for the export of gold and coffee in the 17th and 19th centuries respectively. The winding, cobbled streets are open only to bicycles, horses and pedestrians and are surrounded by a wealth of old buildings containing appealing art galleries, restaurants and handicraft shops. The town sits on the ocean and is backed by lush Atlantic Rainforest. The most imposing church in town is the Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Our Lady of the Remedies). Originally built for the white elite, it now contains works of art by local artists. Approximately a 20-minute walk north of the Old Town is the Forte Defensor Perpétuo (Perpetual Defending Fort), on the Morro de Vilha. Its purpose in 1703 was to defend Paraty from gold-plundering pirates but today it houses the Museu de Artes e Tradicoes Populares (Museum of Popular Arts and Tradition).

From Rio, Paraty is best reached by car or bus. Nine buses leave daily from the Terminal Rodoviária Novo Rio in Rio. The journey takes approximately four hours and 30 minutes, although is much quicker by car. No vehicles are allowed in the Old Town itself, however. Centro de Informações Turisticas, Avenida Roberto Silveira, Paraty (tel: (24) 3371 1266; website: www.turisrio.rj.gov.br), can provide further information. The website: www.paraty.com.br is also a good source of information.

Sport

Sporting stars from the continent will descend on Rio in 2007, when the city hosts the 15th Pan American Games. There is a lot of development work going on to accommodate this regional version of the Olympic Games. But football remains Brazil’s main sport and is a national obsession – even more so nowadays, following the national team’s fifth World Cup win in 2002. Introduced by Scottish railway engineers in the 1890s, the sport soared in popularity and today, for youngsters living in the favelas, football could prove to be their passport to better lives. Pelé (arguably the greatest player of all time), Rivaldo and Ronaldo are just some of the local heroes.

In Rio, the most important teams are Flamengo (website: www.flamengo.com.br), Vasco (website: www.crvascodagama.com), Fluminense (website: www.canalfluminense.com.br) and Botafogo (website: www.botafogo.com). These four teams feature prominently in the national league and cup tournament. The teams and the Brazilian national side play their matches at Maracanã Stadium, Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo, Maracanã (tel: (21) 2568 9962; website: www.suderj.rj.gov.br). These are raucous and entertaining affairs. Enthusiastic crowds, drums, flags and endless ticker tape accompany the skill and excitement of the footballers on the pitch.

Tickets cost around R$10 for stand seats, with the price rising for Championship and International fixtures. These are available at the gates on match days. Confederação Brasileira de Futebol (CBF), Condomínio Rio Office Park, Rua Victor Civita 66, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 3535 9610/81; website: www.cbfnews.bol.com.br), can provide information on Rio’s match schedules.

With its vast beaches, Rio is ideal for beach and watersports and the citizens fully exploit the natural resources. Football, beach volley and foot volley are constantly taking place and there is a plethora of tournaments and championships. Hiking, fishing, diving, boating, rowing, body boarding, surfing and windsurfing are also popular and there is ample opportunity to cycle, rollerblade and jog.

Fitness Centres: Fitness is an obsession in Rio. As well as exercise stations on the beaches and around the Lagoa, there are indoor gyms on almost every street, many of which are open to non-members. Of the exclusive clubs, Estaçaó do Corpo Health Club & Spa, Avenida Borges de Medeiros 1426, Lagoa (tel: (21) 2219 3134), is one of the best. Access to its gym, dance studio, spinning centre, running track, soccer pitch, swimming pool and sauna are available at daily or weekly rates.

Golf: Players can test their handicap at four local clubs. The first, Gávea Golf Club, Estrada da Gávea 800, São Conrado (tel: (21) 3322 4141), offers a field of 18 holes for R$250 basic green fees. Non-members can play at the invitation of a member. The second, Itanhangá Golf Club, Estrada da Barra 2005, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 2494 2507; website: www.itanhanga.com.br), is a 27-hole course that is only open to members; non-members can play at the invitation of a member. The third, the Golden Green Golf Club, Avenida Canal de Marapendi 2901, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 2434 0696), is a golf clinic with a three-par, six-hole course open to outside players for R$300 basic fees. Golf in Rio, Avenida Benvindo de Novaes 1001, Recreio dos Bandeirantes, (tel: (21) 3411 9004; website: www.golfinrio.com.br) is a golf school open to the public with a large course (R$50), a driving range (R$12 for 40 balls) and putting greens (R$10).

Hang-gliding and Paragliding: A tandem flight from one of Rio’s steep mountains is an increasingly popular activity with tourists. There are many pilots and companies offering this, including Fly With Me (tel: (21) 2522 5586 or 9687 0664 (mobile); website: www.guia4ventos.com.br), Hang Gliding Tour (tel: (21) 2422 6531 or 9343 3380 (mobile); website: www.hanglidingtour.com.br) and Superfly (tel: (21) 3322 2286 or 9887 6084 (mobile); website: www.riosuperfly.com.br). Prices start from around R$200.

Tennis: Public tennis courts are situated around the Lagoa. Rio Sport Center has two locations with tennis courts, at Avenida Ayrton Senna 2541, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 3325 6644; website: www.riosportcenter.com.br), and Rua Visconde de Pirajá 161, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2267 4192).

Shopping

People do not generally visit Rio specifically for its shopping prowess. Typical Brazilian wares are thin on the ground, with shops orientated towards tourists, selling the usual T-shirts and resort-type souvenirs. Nevertheless, Rio is the place to invest in good-quality beach- and swimwear. Fashion clothes shops are increasingly common and Rio is also recommended for antiques and jewellery. Brazilian soccer shirts make great gifts. Official shirts are available from sports shops and are of a higher quality and more expensive than the cotton replicas found in clothes shops or for sale on the street.

The main shopping streets are Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana and Rua Barata Ribeiro in Copacabana, Rua Visconde de Pirajá in Ipanema and in Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva in Leblon. Rio has over 30 shopping centres located throughout the city, most of which contain supermarkets, department stores, fashion boutiques and music outlets, as well as places for one to grab something to eat. The most central is Rio Sul, Rua Lauro Muller 116, in Botafogo. Other options include the São Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gávea 899, São Conrado, and Shopping Center de Copacabana, Rua Siqueira Campos 143, Copacabana.

Rio also has plenty of good bookstores, many with pleasant cafés located inside. One of the best is Livraria da Travessa, with branches at Travessa do Ouvidor 11A, Centro, Avenida Rio Branco 44, Centro, and Rua Visconde de Pirajá 462A, Ipanema.

Good-quality arts and crafts are available at regular outdoor markets, which are colourful and entertaining places for tourists to visit. The Babilônia Hype Fair, at Tribune C of the Brazilian Jockey Club Racetrack (tel: (21) 2267 0066; website: www.babiloniahype.com.br), is open over most weekends and gathers together over 150 fashion, art and decoration-themed stalls, also featuring music and dance performances. The Hippie Fair takes place every Sunday (0900–1800) around the 18th-century Saracuras Fountain in Ipanema. Stalls feature handicrafts and artwork. The fair is a major attraction for both visitors and locals alike. Antique fairs occur in various parts of the city, every weekend. However, the Rio Antiques Fair (tel: (21) 2224 6693), located on the Rua do Lavradio, Centro, is held for two weeks every month. The market provides an excellent opportunity for treasure hunting on this neo-classical street, which was the home and meeting place for the artists, poets, politicians, typographers and writers who have shaped Rio’s history.

Jewellery shops H Stern, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 490, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2259 7442), and Amsterdam Sauer, Rua Garcia D’Ávila, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2512 1132), have branches throughout the city, as well as outlets in most of the upmarket hotels, selling intricate and elegant silver, pearl and gemstone designs.

Shops are usually open Monday to Friday 0900–1900 and Saturday 0900–1300, although hours vary according to the location and type of business. Shopping centres are generally open daily 1000–2200, although some have more limited opening hours on Sundays. ICMS (sales tax) in shops is 18%. There is no tax refund scheme in Brazil.

Culture

Rio is and always has been a highly cultured city. The high density and rich ethnic mix of the population has given shape to all forms of artistic expression, which is evident in the music, dance and lifestyle of the Cariocas – especially during Carnival. There are many cultural centres, art galleries and performance venues in Rio, hosting an ever-changing series of events. The Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, Rua Primeiro de Março 66, Centro (tel: (21) 3808 2020; website: www.cultura-e.com.br), is one of the city’s prime venues for music, plays, exhibitions and films.

The Rio Show magazine in the Friday edition of the O Globo newspaper has weekly cultural listings. Tickets are available for purchase at the venue box offices and, for some events, through Ticketmaster (tel: (11) 6846 6000 or 0300 789 6846 (Brazil only); website: www.ticketmaster.com.br).

Music: The Brazilian Symphony Orchestra (tel: (21) 2142 5800; website: www.osb.com.br) is based in Rio, performing at various venues in the city. The Theatro Municipal, Praça Floriano, Centro (tel: (21) 2262 3935 or 2544 2900; website: www.theatromunicipal.rj.gov.br), which has its own resident orchestra, is the main venue for classical concerts and operas.

Theatre: Rio has over 60 theatres, cultural centres, museums and cafés designated as spaces for the performing arts. Venues include the 200-seater Museu Nacional de Belas Artes, Avenida Rio Branco 199, Centro (tel: (21) 2240 0068; website: www.mnba.gov.br), which stages classic performances, the Maison de France, Avenida Carlos 58, Centro (tel: (21) 2262 7527 or 2215 1708; website: www.teatromaisondefrance.com.br), offering contemporary shows, and the Theatro Municipal (see Music above), staging both contemporary and classic fare. Theatre is generally staged in Portuguese, with very little in English.

Dance: Rio’s ballet company, Ballet do Theatro Municipal, is based at the Theatro Municipal (see Music above). Samba is prevalent in the city. An elaborate Carnival-style samba show is performed daily from 2200 at Plataforma 1, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon (tel: (21) 2274 4022; website: www.plataforma1.com.br).

Film: Cariocas are ardent cinemagoers, whether they are watching Brazilian or foreign films. American and European films are released quickly and are screened in the original language with Portuguese subtitles. Mainstream cinemas are situated throughout the city, including Cinemark (website: www.cinemark.com.br), which has branches at Carioca Shopping (tel: (21) 3688 2340), Botafogo (tel: (21) 2237 9484) and Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 2494 5004). The arthouse cinema chain Estação (tel: (21) 2537 1112; website: www.estacaovirtual.com) shows an up-to-date selection of international films and has branches all over the city, including the Botafogo, Centro and Leme districts. Cinema tickets cost around R$15.

The most famous film set in Rio is probably the Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers classic, Flying Down to Rio (1933), which was filmed in the Copacabana Palace Hotel. More recently, Bossa Nova (1999), with Antonio Fagundes, was set in Rio. Carlos Diegues’ Orfeu (1999) and the 1959 Marcel Camus classic and award-winning Black Orpheus are both celluloid renderings of Vinicius De Moraes’ play, which retells the Greek myth of Orpheus, set in the delirium of Rio’s Carnival. More recently, a number of movies have explored the gritty reality of Rio’s poorer districts, including the internationally acclaimed 2002 film Cidade de Deus (City of God). Rio born director Walter Salles, who shot to fame with his beautiful film Central do Brasil (Brazil Central - 1998), had a worldwide hit in 2004 with The Motorcycle Diaries, recreating Che Guevara’s South American journey.

Cultural Events: The biggest cultural event in Rio is undoubtedly Carnival, which takes place annually in late February or early March, over the days running up to and including Shrove Tuesday. People from all over the world are attracted, in hundreds of thousands, to Rio’s annual orgy of grandiose fun and frivolity. Balls and street parties are held throughout the city during this frenetic period. Masquerade balls became popular with Rio’s elite in the mid-19th century and the poorer sections of society, not to feel excluded, popularised street celebrations with bands and parades. The main event now takes place in the purpose-built Sambódromo, where samba schools compete with music, costume, story, song, rhythm and dance in front of judges and up to 90,000 spectators. Tickets are available from Riotur (tel: (21) 2217 7575; website: www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br), local travel agencies and banks. Advance booking is highly advisable. New Year is also a big deal in Rio - the city is lit up by fireworks and thousands of people dress up in white and make offerings to Iemanjá (the African Goddess of the Waters) at Copacabana and other beaches.

Literary Notes: Brazilian literature remains largely untranslated into English. Two notable novelists who have enjoyed worldwide success are Jorge Amado and Rio born Paulo Coelho. Coelho’s The Alchemist (1988) is considered a modern classic. Works set in Rio include Blues For A Lost Childhood (1989) by Antonio Torres, which depicts the life of a journalist who makes it to the big city but discovers life there to be more akin to a living hell than heaven. Other Brazilian writers include Carlos Drummond, Luis Fernando, Verissimo and Ziraldo.

Nightlife

Nightlife Brazilians know how to party and the Cariocas are no exception. Whether it is a post-soccer beer at a beach kiosk, an evening’s entertainment at a live music venue or a cocktail at one of the growing number of trendy bars and clubs, a night out in Rio is to be savoured and enjoyed.

Beer seems to be served at all hours of the day and locals can often be seen enjoying a drink with friends at the corner bars that open out onto the streets in all parts of the city. Many bars and pubs have happy hours for people returning from work or the beach and most serve snacks and light meals. But the real action does not really start until around 2300, when the clubs open their doors for music and dancing and stay open until around 0400. Club entry fees cost around R$15 and cards are provided, onto which drink consumption is recorded – a minimum purchase of R$15 upwards is usually required. It is essential to keep hold of this card or face a forfeit charge, which can be as high as R$300 – much more than the average drinker could possibly consume. Beers are approximately R$5, while spirits or cocktails cost upwards of R$6. The minimum legal drinking age in Brazil is 18 years.

All areas have popular bars and clubs but the beach communities of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon are particularly good for a night out. Although clubs do not usually operate formal dress codes, Cariocas tend to dress up after dark and it is best to follow suit. Some venues refuse entry to people wearing shorts and T-shirts.

The O Globo (website: http://oglobo.globo.com) newspaper publishes Rio Show, an excellent entertainment listings magazine on Friday. Entertainment information can also be found online at www.funrio.com.br. Good information and discounts for clubbing and nightlife in Rio also can be found online (website: www.caindonanoite.com).

Bars: Outdoor drinking can be enjoyed at the kiosks that line the beach promenades or around the Lagoa. For more of an indoor experience, try Bar Luiz, Rua da Carioca 39, Centro, one of the oldest bars in Rio and now popular with the business crowd. Devotees of the Girl From Ipanema song will want to visit Garota de Ipanema, Rua Vinicius de Moraes 49, Ipanema, where the composition was conceived. The sophisticated atmosphere of Melt, Rua Rita Ludolf 47, Leblon, attracts a young and trendy crowd for imported beer and cocktails, with a lounge club upstairs, open from 2300. Saturnino, Rua Saturnino de Brito 50, Jardim Botânico, is a new, smart bar popular with fashionable Cariocas. To sample some quality Brazilian fire water try Academia da Cachaça, Rua Conde Bernardotte 26, Leblon. Those hankering for a pint of ale should visit the Lord Jim Pub, Rua Paul Redfern 63, Ipanema.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Brazil.

Clubs: Rio vies with Buenos Aires for the title of clubbing capital of South America. Everything is on offer here from cheesy pop to samba house, drum and bossa and international dance music. Most clubs are open Wednesday to Saturday from 2200 onwards. Bombar, Avenida General San Martin 1011, Leblon is a current favourite with the happening crowd in Rio. It hosts a number of different club nights, including those dedicated to electronica, funk and beats music. Bunker 94, Rua Paul Pompéia 94, Copacabana, Casa da Matriz, Rua Henrique de Novais 107, Botafogo, and Six, Rua das Marrecas 38, Lapa, remain hugely popular for Brazilain dance and electronica. Help, Avenida Atlântica 3432, Copacabana, is a huge disco that is popular with the singles crowd.

Live Music: Rio has a wide choice when it comes to live music. Samba, bossa nova, chorinho, rock, MBP (Brazilian pop), classical, blues and jazz can all be enjoyed nightly. An elaborate Carnival-style samba show can be seen at Plataforma 1, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon, daily from 2200. Favourites for bossa nova include New Garden, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 631, Ipanema, and Vinicius, Rua Vinicius de Moraes 39, Ipanema, daily from 2300 – in the bar and road named after Vinicius de Moraes of Girl from Ipanema fame, who penned many of his songs here with Tom Jobim. Another bossa nova hotspot is Thursday to Sunday from 2230 at Bar do Tom, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon, named after bossa nova pioneer Tom Jobim. Esch Café, Rua do Rosario 107, Centro, and Rua Dias Ferreira 78, Leblon, holds regular jazz evenings.

City Statistics

Location: Rio de Janeiro, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Country dialling code: 55.
Population: 6,051,399 (city).
Ethnic mix: 70% white, 20% black, 10% other.
Religion: 75% Catholic, 25% other.
Time zone: GMT - 3 (GMT - 2 from third Sunday in October to third Sunday in March).
Electricity: 110 volts or 220 volts; two round-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 30°C (86°F).
Average July temp: 25°C (77°F).
Annual rainfall: 1,086mm (42.4 inches).

Special Events

St Sebastian, celebrations in honour of the patron saint of Rio de Janeiro, 20 Jan, throughout the city
Carnival (website: www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) Feb or early Mar, Sambódromo and throughout the city
Good Friday, religious ceremonies and processions, Mar or Apr, throughout the city
Rio Boat Show (website: www.rioboatshow.com.br) Apr or May, Marina da Glória
Rio de Janeiro International Book Fair (website: www.bienaldolivro.com.br) May, Riocentro
June Bonfire Festival, folklore festival, Jun, throughout city
Rio de Janeiro Pride, gay festival, Jun, throughout the city
City of Rio de Janeiro Marathon (website: www.maratonadorio.com.br) Jun, throughout the city
Cinesul, festival of Latin American cinema, (website: www.cinesul.com.br), Jun/Jul, throughout the city
Anima Mundi, animation festival (website: www.animamundi.com.br), Jul, throughout the city
Our Lady of Copacabana Week, religious ceremonies, cultural events and candlelit procession, Aug, Copacabana
Independence Week, processions and ceremonies, 1-7 Sep, throughout the city
Casa Cor Rio, home show (website: www.casacor.com.br), Sept, throughout the city
Festival do Rio BR, film festival (website: www.festivaldoriobr.com.br), Sep–Oct, throughout the city
Naval Academy Regata, sailing event, Oct, Guanabara Bay
Our Lady Aparecida, religious holiday, 12 Oct, throughout the city
Iemanjá, religious ceremony and offerings to the sea, 31 Dec, Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon beaches
Reveillon, outdoor concerts, parties and fireworks, 31 Dec, Copacabana beach and seafront

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: R$1.50.
33cl bottle of beer: R$2.
Financial Times newspaper: R$15.
36-exposure colour film: R$14.
City-centre bus ticket: R$1.60 or R$1.70 (air conditioned).
Adult football ticket: From R$12.
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From R$25.

1 Real (R$1) = £0.26; US$0.45; C$0.52; A$0.59; ¬0.38
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005