World City Guide

Nightlife

Teetotallers should think seriously before planning a trip to Riga, as this is a city that likes to drink and it often seems the locals never stop partying. The Old Town is awash with bars – everything from lounge style hangouts with DJs, comfy couches and funky visuals, right through to spit and sawdust drinking dens. One thing to look out for is that some bars are unofficially the sole preserve of Riga’s Russian community and your presence will be, at best, tolerated. Also, some ex-pats report an increase in foreigners being followed and robbed, particularly after leaving bars that are known to be popular with the ex-pat community. Most bars and clubs in Riga are late opening, with many staying open until 0300, seven days a week. The minimum legal drinking age is 18.

Riga in Your Pocket, Riga This Week and The Baltic Guide, widely available in Riga, are all invaluable guides to what’s on in the city, boasting extensive bar, restaurant and club reviews.

Bars: Paddy Whelans, Grecinieku 4, was the city’s first Irish bar and it is still filled with ex-pats and locals wanting to meet English speakers, while its newer rival across the road, Dickens, Grecinieku 9/1, gives Whelans a run for its money, as does brand new De Lacy’s, 4 Skunu Iela. Nobody Writes to the Colonel, 26/28 Peldu, is a industrial MTV-style bar with frequent live music and club nights, which is a favourite with the local grunge set. A world away is Rigas Balzams, Toma 4, a raucous, unpretentious place that specialises in the lethal local Black Balsam concoction, a strange brew of herbs and alcohol and a real Riga institution. The same owners have recently opened a funkier new place, Jaunais Rigas Balzams, 2 Doma Laukams. The Skyline Bar, Elizabetes 55, in the Reval Hotel Latvija, may be a touch lacking in real atmosphere but the views from the 26th floor are superb.

Casinos: Riga has a wide range of gambling opportunities but many of the ‘casinos’ turn out to be low-quality dives or informal Mafia-run ventures, so it is best to stick to the established names. The age restriction for gambling is 21 years and passports are required. Smart dress is advisable. The Admiralu Klub, Audeju 12, is geared towards local and foreign businesspeople and is as above board as Riga gets. Similarly, Mirage, 22 Aspazijas bulvaris, is reliable as part of the busy Hotel Riga. The Royal Casino, Elizabetes 55, has blackjack, poker and roulette with a free bar. Tornis, Milsu 75, also has a free bar for players, as well as blackjack, roulette, poker and billiards.

Clubs: Over the last few years, Riga’s club scene has gone through the roof and there are now over a dozen regular clubs in the city. Nautilus, King 8, is the most bizarre club in Riga, with a décor that is based on a submarine and bar staff dressed in sailor suits, which make it well worth the visit for the novelty value alone. La Rocca, Brivibas 96 (website: www.larocca.lv) claims to be the biggest club in the Baltics and the dancefloor certainly is huge. The drinks are reasonably priced and there are some very good club nights at weekends. One hot newer place is Depo, Valnu 32, an underground hangout with muted lighting, a fashionably grungy clientele and regular guest DJs. Come during the day and you may just be served lunch by one of the city’s most renowned DJs. Purvs, Matisa 60/62, is a reasonably good gay club with some dubious live shows.

Live Music: Bites Blues Club, Dzirnavu 34a (website: www.bluesclub.lv) is a fair stab at a genuine Blues club. It may not quite be New Orleans but there is regular live music and when no one is on, they beam classic jazz artists on to a big screen. Hamlet Club, Jana Seta 5, has suitably arty pretensions with improvised performances, modern jazz and cultural events. Kalku Varti, Kalku 11a (website: www.kalkuvarti.lv) boasts professional artists and an appreciative crowd who don't tend to spoil performances by singing along – a danger in many other music venues in Riga.