World City Guide

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

IVA (value-added tax) at 10% is included in restaurant prices. A 15% service charge is sometimes added to the bill, and so is a bread charge called pane (usually ¬1-2 per person). Romans are not very generous with tips but an additional 10% on top of the bill if the meal and service have been good is very much appreciated.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent; they include IVA but do not include service charge or tip.

Gastronomic

Checchino dal 1887
The birthplace of Roman cooking, in the heart of Testaccio, Checchino has remained in the Mariani family for five generations. Classics, such as coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail) and abbacchio alla cacciatora (braised suckling lamb), were invented here. Still on the menu today, they have been adapted to create lighter dishes for the modern palate. Reservations are recommended – it is packed throughout the week, normally with locals. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Via Monte Testaccio 30
Tel: (06) 574 3816. Fax: (06) 574 6318.
E-mail: checchino_roma@tin.it
Website: www.checchino-dal-1887.com
Price: ¬55. Wine: ¬16.

Il Convivio Troiani
Run by three brothers, Il Convivio is one of the city’s foremost temples to food and innovation. An equal emphasis is placed on vegetable, fish and meat options, and some of the dishes stem from classic Roman fare, but the basic ingredients are always combined with something unexpected according to the whim of youngest brother and chef Angelo, and turned into something sublime. Three elegant rooms, two with murals on the walls, and well-trained wait staff make for a truly rounded gourmet experience. Dinner only Monday. Closed Sunday.

Vicolo dei Soldati 31
Tel/fax: (06) 686 9432.
E-mail: info@ilconviviotroiani.com
Website: www.ilconviviotroiani.com
Price: ¬86. Wine: ¬28.

Hostaria dell’Orso
Milanese superstar chef Gualtiero Marchesi is at the helm of the new-look Hostaria dell’Orso located in a medieval palazzo which was an inn for centuries and experienced its headiest days in the 1960s. Now a posh and striking restaurant (but also piano bar and disco), it serves a skilled take on Italian haute cuisine such as filetto di tonno grigliato con le due salse, al pomodoro crudo e olive taggiasche (braised tuna filet with raw tomato and taggiasco olives) and maialino da latte caramellato al miele con spezie e mele dorate (Honey-caramelised suckling pig with spices and golden apples). Dishes can be ordered à la carte or from five different set-price menus (menù degustazione). No lunch. Closed Sunday.

Via dei Soldati 25c
Tel: (06) 6830 1192. Fax: (06) 6821 7063.
E-mail: info@hdo.it
Website: www.hdo.it
Price: ¬115. Wine: ¬20.

La Pergola
Sublime food and breathtaking views put this roof garden restaurant among Italy’s ‘Top 20’. The chef, Heinz Beck, shapes the menu according to seasonal produce and personal inspiration – recent successes include ravioli al finocchio con alici (fennel ravioli with anchovy) and agnello ai carciofi in crosta di pane con consommé di agnello e spuma di pecorino (lamb with artichokes cooked in a bread crust with lamb consommé and pecorino cheese). There are separate menus for wines, water, teas, herbal teas and coffees. The cellar stocks some of the best (and most expensive) wines in the world. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Cavalieri Hilton Hotel, Via Cadlolo 101
Tel: (06) 3509 2152. Fax: (06) 3509 2165.
Website: www.cavalieri-hilton.it
Price: ¬160. Wine: ¬40.

La Rosetta
Regarded as Rome’s top fish restaurant, La Rosetta lies in a quiet side street close to the Pantheon. Upon entering the wood-panelled room, with its wooden furniture and red upholstery, customers receive a complimentary glass of champagne. One might begin with antipasto misto (a selection of cold seafood delicacies), followed by strozzapreti con calamaretti (pasta with baby squid), to be rounded off with scorfano e verdure grigliate (grilled sea scorpion and spinach). The wines are truly classy but shockingly expensive. No lunch Saturday and Sunday, dinner daily.

Via della Rosetta 8
Tel: (06) 686 1002. Fax: (06) 6821 5116.
E-mail: info@larosetta.com
Website: www.larosetta.com
Price: ¬125. Wine: ¬40.

Business

Dal Bolognese
Popular with politicians, artists and businesspeople, this restaurant has a smart summer terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo, and a classic winter dining room decorated with contemporary paintings. The menu features dishes from Bologna, notably homemade pasta in creamy sauces, excellent tortelloni con ricotta e spinaci (pasta filled with spinach and ricotta), and bollito misto (mixed boiled meats). For dessert, divine sorbets from the southern region of Campania are served in scooped-out fruit. Open daily. Closed Christmas, New Year and two weeks in August.

Piazza del Popolo 1
Tel: (06) 361 1426. Fax: (06) 322 2799.
Price: ¬54. Wine: ¬18.

Dal Toscano
The Bruni family have run this friendly trattoria for three generations. Close to the Vatican, Dal Toscano is known for traditional cooking and speedy service. The interior is simple (vaulted ceilings and plain wooden furniture) and in summer there is a leafy terrace. Both Tuscan and Roman specialities, such as funghi porcini arrosto (roast porcini mushrooms) and abbacchio scottadito (grilled suckling lamb), are on offer. The Chianti, a robust red, is first-rate. Closed Monday.

Via Germanico 58-60
Tel: (06) 3972 5717. Fax: (06) 3973 0748.
E-mail: info@ristorantedaltoscano.it
Website: www.ristorantedaltoscano.it
Price: ¬38. Wine: ¬12.

Enoteca Capranica
Housed within a 15th-century renaissance palazzo, close to the Parliament, this elegant restaurant retains old-fashioned charm, with wood-panelled walls and chintzy covered chairs. Ideal for business lunches, there is a small room reserved for private meetings. The menu features refined Mediterranean dishes, such as crema di astice e finocchi con pepperoncino (lobster and fennel cream soup with hot red pepper), and pescespada con olive nere, capperi e pomodorini (swordfish with black olives, capers and cherry tomatoes). On a recent visit the classic crème brulée dessert was made very interesting with some authentic vanilla flavouring and mango ice-cream as an accompaniment. Closed Sunday. No lunch Saturday.

Piazza Capranica 99
Tel: (06) 6994 0992. Fax: (06) 6994 0989.
Website: www.enotecacapranica.it
Price: ¬70. Wine: ¬16.

La Tana de Noantri
This is a very popular venue which, despite being situated in the heart of the most touristy part of Trastevere (behind Piazza Santa Maria), has kept up a very high standard of solid Roman cuisine since it opened in 1965. All the dishes use only the very freshest of ingredients, especially the many fish main courses. Another of their specialties are ‘Tagliolini alla Tana’, thin egg tagliatelle made with tomatoes, mushrooms and fresh oregano. Outdoor seating is available in summer. Closed Tuesday.

Via della Paglia 1-3
Tel: (06) 580 6404.
Price: ¬35. Wine: ¬12.

Taverna degli Amici
Very much frequented by politicians and celebrities from the Roman or Italian arts scene, this restaurant nevertheless boasts unpretentious and discreet staff, a tasteful rustic interior and a romantic candlelit exterior in one of the most atmospheric piazzas in Rome. The menu changes daily but the staples are fish. Desserts are homemade and creative (cinnamon mousse and an exquisite crème caramel are just two examples). An added bonus is that this is one of the few spots in Rome where, for some reason, diners will not be pestered to buy roses or have their picture taken. Closed Monday.

Piazza Margana 37
Tel: (06) 6992 0637. Fax: (06) 6929 0826.
Price: ¬40. Wine: ¬15.

Trendy

Cul de Sac
Situated close to Piazza Navona, there is something indefinably French about Cul de Sac. The shelves around the walls in the long and narrow indoor space are stacked high with wine bottles and the staff work from behind a large marble counter. On summer evenings, several candlelit tables are placed outdoors in a pleasant piazza. It is not exactly a restaurant but more an informal retreat where diners can enjoy good wine accompanied by plates of homemade pâté, regional salamis, first-rate cheeses and salads, without running up an exorbitant bill. The few real dishes of food there are, however, are very tasty.

Piazza Pasquino 73
Tel: (06) 6880 1094.
Price: ¬24. Wine: ¬12.

Gusto
This split-level, open-plan restaurant, pizzeria, wine bar and osteria (round the back, entrance Via della Frezza 16) is something of a designer showpiece – exposed brickwork, wooden floors, marble-top tables and industrial-style lighting. The emphasis is on Mediterranean cuisine, primarily meat and fish prepared with aromatic herbs and spices. One classic example is the pizza Mediterranea, topped with ricotta, sliced aubergine and fresh basil leaves. Weekend brunch sees a ‘multi-ethnic’ menu based on eggs, quiches, muffins and salads, while the ‘fitness brunch’ combines salad, yoghurt, cereal and freshly squeezed orange juice. Live jazz takes place in the wine bar and there is also an extremely well-stocked shop, selling kitchenware and cookery books.

Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9
Tel: (06) 322 6273. Fax: (06) 323 6363.
Website: www.gusto.it
Price: ¬35. Wine: ¬14.

Ketumbar
Ketumbar (Malay for ‘coriander’) is a relatively chic nightspot in Testaccio. Fusion cuisine fits the bill, with dishes such as sushi and nasi goreng (rice, egg and greens prepared in a wok) as well as plenty of mediterranean dishes with a nouvelle twist. The sleek, minimalist interior (featured in various style magazines) is tastefully decorated with Indonesian furniture, while in one room potsherds (pieces of broken Roman amphorae that make up Monte Testaccio hill) are subtly lit behind a glass wall. No lunch. Closed August.

Via Galvani 24
Tel: (06) 5730 5338.
Price: ¬40. Wine: ¬15.

Mangiamoci
Trendy bar and restaurant Mangiamoci has a friendly and colourful atmosphere. Waiters can be seen heading to and from a large incredible open aquarium out front (full of wriggling eel, crabs and lobsters) to get your dinner. Alternatively, you can choose from a marginally more sedate, but just as impressive, fish counter at the back, or some imaginative vegetarian options on the menu. The atmosphere is fun and lively. Open lunch and dinner daily.

Via di S Sebastianello 6b
Tel: (06) 678 0546. Fax: (06) 678 4556.
E-mail: info@mangiamoci.com
Website: www.mangiamoci.com
Price: ¬35. Wine: ¬14.

Obikà
Obikà (which means ‘here we are’ in Neapolitan dialect) is Rome’s first, and so far, only ‘Mozzarella bar’. In a relaxing, earthy-toned and minimalist interior incredibly smiley wait-staff serve hungry Romans and visitors three different types of the quintessentially Italian cheese in salads, first courses, and starters. If you’re in a hurry you can eat at the bar, and if mozzarella is not your thing though there are plenty of cheese-free offerings from a daily rotating menu, and a cheap lunchtime menu. The sweets are good too and there are always a few specials of the day worth trying. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, closed Sunday.

Via dei Prefetti 26
Tel: (06) 683 2630.
Price: ¬25. Wine: ¬10.

Budget

Augusto
A meal at Augusto’s, possibly the last genuine Trastevere osteria, is an experience in itself. On busy winter evenings, the dining room is packed and steamy, while in summer, rickety wooden tables spill out onto a pretty cobbled piazza. The menu is limited and runs out early: favourites include pollo arrosto con patate (roast chicken and potatoes), and abbacchio al forno (lamb done in the oven); desserts are homemade. Tables are covered with throw-away paper cloths where waitresses scribble down orders and tot up bills. Closed Sunday. No credit cards.

Piazza de’ Renzi 15
Tel: (06) 580 3798.
Price: ¬24. Wine: ¬7.

Da Baffetto
One of Rome’s best-known pizzerie, Da Baffetto is a tiny, rough-and-tumble place, located in a lovely cobbled street close to Piazza Navona. The thin, wood-oven pizzas and excellent bruschette (toast topped with chopped tomatoes, garlic and olive oil) are popular with locals and tourists alike. There is a rapid turnover – the waiters certainly let customers know when it is time to leave. To avoid the crowds, it is best to arrive either very early (before 2000) or very late (after 2400). No lunch. No credit cards.

Via del Governo Vecchio 114
Tel: (06) 686 1617.
Price: ¬15. Wine: ¬6.

Formula 1
As the heart of the student quarter, San Lorenzo is traditionally famous for its cheap and cheerful pizzerie and a growing number of more sophisticated and hip wine bars and eateries. The exceedingly relaxed and slightly chaotic Formula 1 is one of those basic no-frills pizza places that have been serving up some of the best (and one of the widest ranges) in Rome for over 20 years, using real mozzarella (and not the factory kind so favoured nowadays). The typically Roman fried baccalà (salted cod) and vegetables, and the crunchy and fresh bruschette starters are also excellent. No lunch. Closed Sunday. No credit cards.

Via degli Equi 13
Tel: (06) 445 3866.
Price: ¬15. Wine: ¬6.

Gino
A no-frills, down-to-earth and cheerful trattoria, with a surprisingly affordable (and tasty) menu for this most well-heeled area of the city a stone’s throw from the Parliament and Piazza di Spagna. Gino serves up hearty portions of spaghetti alla Carbonara, spezzatino di vitello o manzo (beef or veal stew), and some reliably good fish dishes. The classic sweets - tiramisù, crostate (fruit tarts), crème caramel are all home-made. Closed Sunday and August. No credit cards.

Vicolo Rosini 4
Tel: (06) 687 3434.
Price: ¬24. Wine: ¬10.

Insalata Ricca
Surprisingly few Roman eateries offer creative salads. The founders of Insalata Ricca saw a gap in the market and now run a chain of 12 restaurants around town where you can eat well, cheaply and quickly if you need to. Popular with diet-conscious Romans and foreigners alike, dishes range from insalata con gamberetti (prawns, mushrooms, rocket and radicchio) to insalata di funghi (parmesan, fresh mushrooms and rocket) and insalata contadina (feta cheese, olives, almonds, tomatoes and lettuce). This particular branch has a large outdoor seating area which is a little too close to the busy Corso Vittorio Emanuele for total smog and noise-free relaxation, but is pleasant enough in summer.

Largo dei Chiavari 85
Tel: (06) 6880 3656.
Website: www.insalataricca.it
Price: ¬18. Wine: ¬7.

Personal Recommendations

Africa
Ethiopia and Eritrea are former Italian colonies, hence the recent influx of immigrants from these countries. Africa, close to Termini station, specialises in Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine, such as a delicious spicy stew known as zighinì and highly seasoned cooked vegetables. These are presented on a single large plate, upon a bed of ingera (a spongy pancake-like bread). Traditionally, everyone around the table eats from the same plate, using the ingera to scoop up the meat and vegetables with their hands. Closed Monday.

Via Gaeta 26
Tel: (06) 494 1077.
Price: ¬20. Wine: ¬8.

Ditirambo
Just off the ever-popular and ever-bustling Campo de’ Fiori, this intimate restaurant is a gem of imaginative cuisine (many dishes are vegetarian but not boring) and good humour in a decidedly touristy area. The interior is warm and inviting, the bread and pasta are homemade, as are the sweets (on a recent trip, the semifreddo with hazelnut zabaione cream and cocoa beans was memorable indeed). No lunch Monday.

Piazza della Cancelleria 74-75
Tel/fax: (06) 687 1626.
Website: www.ristoranteditirambo.it
Price: ¬35. Wine: ¬14.

Il Pagliaccio
Lying between Campo de’ Fiori and the river, this restaurant is prettily done up and lit (especially the second and larger room), but it is the food that brings it into the arena of outstanding eateries in the capital. Professional and courteous (if slightly slow) staff will serve you dishes made from the best ingredients and transformed into exquisitely tasty and beautiful combinations of colours and flavours guaranteed to set your tastebuds alight. Examples range from the spaghetti con baccalà, fave e limone (spaghetti with cod, broad beans and lemon) and tuna accompanied by an artichoke flan, to ossobuco (Milanese- style veal shank) cannelloni served with cuttlefish and peas. The desserts are, if anything, even more imaginative and worth the visit alone. Closed Monday lunch and Sunday.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129
Tel: (06) 6880 9595.
Price: ¬55. Wine: ¬15.

La Taverna del Ghetto
Rome’s Ghetto was created in 1554 when the Pope had a wall built to segregate the Jews from the rest of the Roman population. The community developed their own variation on Roman cooking, which can be sampled at this small, informal kosher restaurant. Charcoal-grilled meat and fish predominate, but also delicious are pasta dishes, such as tagliatelle cernia e fiori di zucca (pasta with grouper and courgette flowers) and the classic carciofi alla giudia (artichoke) side-dish. There is an interesting selection of kosher wines. No dinner Friday. No lunch Saturday.

Via del Portico d’Ottavia 8
Tel: (06) 6880 9771. Fax: (06) 6821 2309.
Website: www.latavernadelghetto.com
Price: ¬45. Wine: ¬14.

Uno e Bino
A welcoming and informal bistrot-style atmosphere in Rome’s student district of San Lorenzo offering a low-key gourmet experience. As appetizer the friendly and efficient staff bring you a little vegetable strudel on the house while you choose from an extensive, original and interesting wine and food list which stands out for its affordability in these difficult post-euro times. The kitchen’s two classic main courses are animelle tostate con timo e fagioli (toasted sweetbreads with thyme and beans) and fazzoletti di pasta brick con cicoria e fave (filo pastry envelopes with chicory and fava beans) but fish and meat eaters are well catered for too. No lunch. Closed Monday.

Via degli Equi 58
Tel: (06) 446 0702.
Price: ¬40. Wine: ¬12.